From fundamental science to product: a bottom-up approach to sunscreen development

Valence photoelectron imaging of molecular oxybenzone

An oxybenzone molecule in the gas phase was characterized by mass spectrometry and angle-resolved photoelectron spectroscopy, using both single and multiphoton ionization schemes. A tabletop high harmonic generation source with a monochromator was used for single-photon ionization of oxybenzone with photon energies of up to 35.7 eV. From this, vertical ionization and appearance energies, as well as energy-dependent anisotropy parameters were retrieved and compared with the results from DFT calculations. For two-photon ionization using 4.7 eV light, we found a higher appearance energy than in the extreme ultraviolet (EUV) case, highlighting the possible influence of an intermediate state on the photoionization process. We found no differences in the mass spectra when ionizing oxybenzone by single-photons between 17.2 and 35.7 eV. However, for the multiphoton ionization, the fragmentation process was found to be sensitive to the photoionization order and laser intensity. The "softest" method was found to be two-photon ionization using 4.7 eV light, which led to no measurable fragmentation up to an intensity of 5 × 1012 W cm-2.

Cosmetic Products with Potential Photoprotective Effects Based on Natural Compounds Extracted from Waste of the Winemaking Industry

Grape marc is a by-product resulting from the winemaking industry that still contains beneficial compounds that can be valorized. Thus, we report here the possibility of using polyphenolic extracts of grape marc origin to obtain sun protection creams. The extractions were performed in ethanol and acetone solutions using pomace from different grape varieties (Merlot, Bläufrankisch, Fetească Neagră, Isabella) as a raw material. The obtained extracts were analyzed in order to determine the total phenolic content, the antioxidant activity, and the sun protection factor (SPF) via Mansur spectrophotometric assay. The best results were achieved using 70% ethanol in water as a solvent. The extracts with the highest potential photoprotective effects are from the Merlot variety (SPFspectrophotometric = 7.83 ± 0.76). The sunscreens were prepared using the 70% ethanolic extract of the Merlot variety evaporated to dryness, redissolved in either distilled water or ethanol. The SPF estimated in vitro via the COLIPA method showed values of 14.07 ± 1.50 and 11.46 ± 1.32 for the aqueous and ethanolic extracts, respectively, when working with a cream to polyphenolic extract a ratio of 1/1 (w/w). At the same time, the use of aqueous polyphenolic extracts ensures the better stability of creams compared with the ethanolic ones.

A Comparative Study of Cerium(III) and Cerium(IV) Phosphates for Sunscreens

Crystalline cerium(III) phosphate (CePO4), cerium(IV) phosphates, and nanocrystalline ceria are considered to be promising components of sunscreen cosmetics. This paper reports on a study in which, for the first time, a quantitative comparative analysis was performed of the UV-shielding properties of CePO4, Ce(PO4)(HPO4)0.5(H2O)0.5, and CePO4/CeO2 composites. Both the sun protection factor and protection factor against UV-A radiation of the materials were determined. Ce(PO4)(HPO4)0.5(H2O)0.5 was shown to have a sun protection factor of 2.9, which is comparable with that of nanocrystalline ceria and three times higher than the sun protection factor of CePO4. Composites containing both cerium dioxide and CePO4 demonstrated higher sun protection factors (up to 1.8) than individual CePO4. When compared with the TiO2 Aeroxide P25 reference sample, cerium(III) and cerium(IV) phosphates demonstrated negligible photocatalytic activity. A cytotoxicity analysis performed using two mammalian cell lines, hMSc and NCTC L929, showed that CePO4, Ce(PO4)(HPO4)0.5(H2O)0.5, and nanocrystalline ceria were all non-toxic. The results of this comparative study indicate that cerium(IV) phosphate Ce(PO4)(HPO4)0.5(H2O)0.5 is more advantageous for use in sunscreens than either cerium(III) phosphate or CePO4/CeO2 composites, due to its improved UV-shielding properties and low photocatalytic activity.

Structural Elucidation of Agrochemical Metabolic Transformation Products Based on Infrared Ion Spectroscopy to Improve In Silico Toxicity Assessment

Toxicological assessments of newly developed agrochemical agents consider chemical modifications and their metabolic and biotransformation products. To carry out an in silico hazard assessment, understanding the type of chemical modification and its location on the original compound can greatly enhance the reliability of the evaluation. Here, we present and apply a method based on liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS) enhanced with infrared ion spectroscopy (IRIS) to better delineate the molecular structures of transformation products before in silico toxicology evaluation. IRIS facilitates the recording of IR spectra directly in the mass spectrometer for features selected by retention time and mass-to-charge ratio. By utilizing quantum-chemically predicted IR spectra for candidate molecular structures, one can either derive the actual structure or significantly reduce the number of (isomeric) candidate structures. This approach can assist in making informed decisions. We apply this method to a plant growth stimulant, digeraniol sinapoyl malate (DGSM), that is currently under development. Incubation of the compound in Caco-2 and HepaRG cell lines in multiwell plates and analysis by LC-MS reveals oxidation, glucuronidation, and sulfonation metabolic products, whose structures were elucidated by IRIS and used as input for an in silico toxicology assessment. The toxicity of isomeric metabolites predicted by in silico tools was also assessed, which revealed that assigning the right metabolite structure is an important step in the overall toxicity assessment of the agrochemical. We believe this identification approach can be advantageous when specific isomers are significantly more hazardous than others and can help better understand metabolic pathways.

Ultrafast non-adiabatic dynamics of stilbene-based plant-derived sunscreens with cis-trans isomerization structures

In this work, we investigated the potential UV protection mechanism of the natural compounds hydroxy resveratrol and pterostilbene by combining theoretical calculations and femtosecond transient absorption spectra (FTAS). The UV absorption spectra showed that the two compounds exhibited strong absorption properties and high photostability. We found two molecules will reach the S₁ state or an even higher excited state after UV exposure and molecules in S₁ will cross a lower energy barrier to reach the conical intersection. The adiabatic trans-cis isomerization process happened and finally return to the ground. Meanwhile, FTAS clarified the time scale of trans-cis isomerization of two molecules was ∼ 10 ps, which also met the requirement of fast energy relaxation. This work also provides theoretical guidance for developing new sunscreen molecules from natural stilbene.

Ultrafast excited-state energy dissipation pathway of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB) via the nanoparticles

The organic UVA filter is popularized in sunscreen cosmetics due to the advantages of excellent light stability and high molar extinction coefficient. However, the poor water solubility of organic UV filters has been a common problem. Given that nanoparticles (NPs) can significantly improve the water solubility of organic chemicals. Meanwhile, the excited-state relaxation pathways of NPs might differ from their solution. Here, the NPs of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB), a popular organic UVA filter, were prepared by an advanced ultrasonic micro-flow reactor. The surfactant (sodium dodecyl sulfate) was selected as an effective stabilizer to prevent the self-aggregation of the NPs for DHHB. Femtosecond transient ultrafast spectroscopy (fs-TA) and theoretical calculations were utilized to trace and explain the excited-state evolution of DHHB in NPs suspension and its solution. The results reveal that the surfactant-stabilized NPs of DHHB reserve a similarly good performance of ultrafast excited-state relaxation. The stability characterization experiments demonstrate that the strategy of surfactant-stabilized NPs for sunscreen chemicals can maintain its stability and enhance the water solubility of DHHB compared with that of the solution phase. Therefore, the surfactant-stabilized NPs of organic UV filters are an effective method to improve water solubility and keep the stability from aggregation and photoexcitation.

Synergic photoprotection of phenolic compounds present in tomato fruit cuticle: a spectroscopic investigation in solution

Coumaric acids and flavonoids play pivotal roles in protecting plants against ultraviolet radiation (UVR) exposure. In this work, we focus our photoprotection studies on p-coumaric acid and the flavonoid naringenin chalcone. Photoprotection is well-understood in p-coumaric acid; in contrast, information surrounding photoprotection in naringenin chalcone is lacking. Additionally, and vitally, how these two species work in unison to provide photoprotection across the UV-B and UV-A is unknown. Herein, we employ transient absorption spectroscopy together with steady-state irradiation studies to unravel the photoprotection mechanism of a solution of p-coumaric acid and naringenin chalcone. We find that the excited state dynamics of p-coumaric acid are significantly altered in the presence of naringenin chalcone. This finding concurs with quenching of the p-coumaric acid fluorescence with increasing concentration of naringenin chalcone. We propose a Förster energy transfer mechanism is operative via the formation of dipole-dipole interactions between p-coumaric acid and naringenin chalcone. To our knowledge, this is the first demonstration in plants of a synergic effect between two classes of phenolics to bypass the potentially damaging effects of UVR.

Characterization of Solar Radiation-Induced Degradation Products of the Plant Sunscreen Sinapoyl Malate

Agricultural activities at lower temperatures lead to lower yields due to reduced plant growth. Applying photomolecular heater agrochemicals could boost yields under these conditions, but UV-induced degradation of these compounds needs to be assessed. In this study, we employ liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS) coupled with infrared ion spectroscopy (IRIS) to detect and identify the degradation products generated upon simulated solar irradiation of sinapoyl malate, a proposed photomolecular heater/UV filter compound. All major irradiation-induced degradation products are identified in terms of their full molecular structure by comparing the IRIS spectra obtained after LC fractionation and mass isolation with reference IR spectra obtained from quantum-chemical calculations. In cases where physical standards are available, a direct experimental-to-experimental comparison is possible for definitive structure identification. We find that the major degradation products originate from trans-to-cis isomerization, ester cleavage, and esterification reactions of sinapoyl malate. Preliminary in silico toxicity investigations using the VEGAHUB platform suggest no significant concerns for these degradation products' human and environmental safety. The identification workflow presented here can analogously be applied to break down products from other agrochemical compounds. As the method records IR spectra with the sensitivity of LC-MS, application to agricultural samples, e.g., from field trials, is foreseen.

Medical and Dental Applications of Titania Nanoparticles: An Overview

Currently, titanium oxide (TiO₂) nanoparticles are successfully employed in human food, drugs, cosmetics, advanced medicine, and dentistry because of their non-cytotoxic, non-allergic, and bio-compatible nature when used in direct close contact with the human body. These NPs are the most versatile oxides as a result of their acceptable chemical stability, lower cost, strong oxidation properties, high refractive index, and enhanced aesthetics. These NPs are fabricated by conventional (physical and chemical) methods and the latest biological methods (biological, green, and biological derivatives), with their advantages and disadvantages in this epoch. The significance of TiO₂ NPs as a medical material includes drug delivery release, cancer therapy, orthopedic implants, biosensors, instruments, and devices, whereas their significance as a dental biomaterial involves dentifrices, oral antibacterial disinfectants, whitening agents, and adhesives. In addition, TiO₂ NPs play an important role in orthodontics (wires and brackets), endodontics (sealers and obturating materials), maxillofacial surgeries (implants and bone plates), prosthodontics (veneers, crowns, bridges, and acrylic resin dentures), and restorative dentistry (GIC and composites).

Photostability of the deprotonated forms of the UV filters homosalate and octyl salicylate: molecular dissociation versus electron detachment following UV excitation

While common molecular anions show a strong propensity to undergo electron detachment upon UV excitation, this process often occurs in competition with molecular ion dissociation. The factors that affect the balance between these two major possible decay pathways have not been well understood to date. Laser photodissociation spectroscopy of the deprotonated forms of the UV filter molecules, Homosalate (HS) and Octyl Salicylate (OS), i.e. [HS - H]^- and [OS - H]^-, was used to acquire gas-phase UV absorption spectra for [HS - H]^- and [OS - H]^-via photodepletion from 3.0-5.8 eV. No photofragmentation (i.e. dissociation of the ionic molecular framework) was observed for either [HS - H]^- and [OS - H]^- following photoexcitation, revealing that electron loss entirely dominates the electronic decay pathways for these systems. High-level quantum chemical calculations were used to map out the excited states associated with [HS - H]^- and [OS - H]^-, revealing that the minimum-energy crossing points (MECPs) between the S₁ and S₀ states are located in elevated regions of the potential energy surface, making internal conversion unlikely. These results are consistent with our experimental observation that electron detachment out-competes hot ground state molecular fragmentation. More generally, our results reveal that the competition between molecular dissociation and electron detachment following anion photoexcitation can be determined by the magnitude of the energy gap between the excitation energy and the MECPs, rather than being a simple function of whether the excitation energy lies above the anion's vertical detachment energy.

From Biomass-Derived p-Hydroxycinnamic Acids to Novel Sustainable and Non-Toxic Phenolics-Based UV-Filters: A Multidisciplinary Journey

Although organic UV-filters are extensively used in cosmetics to protect consumers from the deleterious effects of solar UV radiation-exposure, they suffer from some major drawbacks such as their fossil origin and their toxicity to both humans and the environment. Thus, finding sustainable and non-toxic UV-filters is becoming a topic of great interest for the cosmetic industry. A few years ago, sinapoyl malate was shown to be a powerful naturally occurring UV-filter. Building on these findings, we decided to design and optimize an entire value chain that goes from biomass to innovative biobased and non-toxic lignin-derived UV-filters. This multidisciplinary approach relies on: 1) The production of phenolic synthons using either metabolite extraction from biomass or their bioproduction through synthetic biology/fermentation/in stream product recovery; 2) their functionalization using green chemistry to access sinapoyl malate and analogues; 3) the study of their UV-filtering activity, their photostability, their biological properties; and 4) their photodynamics. This mini-review aims at demonstrating that combining biotechnology, green chemistry, downstream process and photochemistry is a powerful approach to transform biomass and, in particular lignins, into high value-added innovative UV-filters.

Quantum mechanics/molecular mechanics studies on the mechanistic photophysics of sunscreen oxybenzone in methanol solution

Herein, we have employed the QM(CASPT2//CASSCF)/MM method to explore the photophysical and photochemical mechanism of oxybenzone (OB) in methanol solution. Based on the optimized minima, conical intersections and crossing points, and minimum-energy reaction paths related to excited-state intramolecular proton transfer (ESIPT) and excited-state decay paths in the ¹ππ*, ¹nπ*, ³ππ*, ³nπ*, and S₀ states, we have identified several feasible excited-state relaxation pathways for the initially populated S₂(¹ππ*) state to decay to the initial enol isomer' S₀ state. The major one is the singlet-mediated and stretch-torsion coupled ESIPT pathway, in which the system first undergoes an essentially barrierless ¹ππ* ESIPT process to generate the ¹ππ* keto species, and finally realizes its ground state recovery through the subsequent carbonyl stretch-torsion facilitating S₁ → S₀ internal conversion (IC) and the reverse ground-state intramolecular proton transfer (GSIPT) process. The minor ones are related to intersystem crossing (ISC) processes. At the S₂(¹ππ*) minimum, an S₂(¹ππ*)/S₁(¹nπ*)/T₂(³nπ*) three-state intersection region helps the S₂ system branch into the T₁ state through a S₂ → S₁ → T₁ or S₂ → T₂ → T₁ process. Once it has reached the T₁ state, the system may relax to the S₀ state via direct ISC or via subsequent nearly barrierless ³ππ* ESIPT to yield the T₁ keto tautomer and ISC. The resultant S₀ keto species significantly undergoes reverse GSIPT and only a small fraction yields the trans-keto form that relaxes back more slowly. However, due to small spin-orbit couplings at T₁/S₀ crossing points, the ISC to S₀ state occurs very slowly. The present work rationalizes not only the ultrafast excited-state decay dynamics of OB but also its phosphorescence emission at low temperature.

Titanium Dioxide: Structure, Impact, and Toxicity

Titanium dioxide, first manufactured a century ago, is significant in industry due to its chemical inertness, low cost, and availability. The white mineral has a wide range of applications in photocatalysis, in the pharmaceutical industry, and in food processing sectors. Its practical uses stem from its dual feature to act as both a semiconductor and light scatterer. Optical performance is therefore of relevance in understanding how titanium dioxide impacts these industries. Recent breakthroughs are summarised herein, focusing on whether restructuring the surface properties of titanium dioxide either enhances or inhibits its reactivity, depending on the required application. Its recent exposure as a potential carcinogen to humans has been linked to controversies around titanium dioxide's toxicity; this is discussed by illustrating discrepancies between experimental protocols of toxicity assays and their results. In all, it is important to review the latest achievements in fast-growing industries where titanium dioxide prevails, while keeping in mind insights into its disputed toxicity.

Illuminating the Effect of the Local Environment on the Performance of Organic Sunscreens: Insights From Laser Spectroscopy of Isolated Molecules and Complexes

Sunscreens are essential for protecting the skin from UV radiation, but significant questions remain about the fundamental molecular-level processes by which they operate. In this mini review, we provide an overview of recent advanced laser spectroscopic studies that have probed how the local, chemical environment of an organic sunscreen affects its performance. We highlight experiments where UV laser spectroscopy has been performed on isolated gas-phase sunscreen molecules and complexes. These experiments reveal how pH, alkali metal cation binding, and solvation perturb the geometric and hence electronic structures of sunscreen molecules, and hence their non-radiative decay pathways. A better understanding of how these interactions impact on the performance of individual sunscreens will inform the rational design of future sunscreens and their optimum formulations.

Theoretical Studies on the Excited-State Decay Mechanism of Homomenthyl Salicylate in a Gas Phase and an Acetonitrile Solution

Here, we employ the CASPT2//CASSCF and QM(CASPT2//CASSCF)/MM approaches to explore the photochemical mechanism of homomenthyl salicylate (HMS) in vacuum and an acetonitrile solution. The results show that in both cases, the excited-state relaxation mainly involves a spectroscopically "bright" S₁(¹ππ*) state and the lower-lying T₁ and T₂ states. In the major relaxation pathway, the photoexcited S₁ keto system first undergoes an essentially barrierless excited-state intramolecular proton transfer (ESIPT) to generate the S₁ enol minimum, near which a favorable S₁/S₀ conical intersection decays the system to the S₀ state followed by a reverse ground-state intramolecular proton transfer (GSIPT) to repopulate the initial S₀ keto species. In the minor one, an S₁/T₂/T₁ three-state intersection in the keto region makes the T₁ state populated via direct and T₂-mediated intersystem crossing (ISC) processes. In the T₁ state, an ESIPT occurs, which is followed by ISC near a T₁/S₀ crossing point in the enol region to the S₀ state and finally back to the S₀ keto species. In addition, a T₁/S₀ crossing point near the T₁ keto minimum can also help the system decay to the S₀ keto species. However, small spin-orbit couplings between T₁ and S₀ at these T₁/S₀ crossing points make ISC to the S₀ state very slow and make the system trapped in the T₁ state for a while. The present work rationalizes not only the ultrafast excited-state decay dynamics of HMS but also its low quantum yield of phosphorescence at 77 K.

Effects of substituent position on aminobenzoate relaxation pathways in solution

The negative effects of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) on human skin have led to the widespread use of sunscreens, i.e. skincare products containing UV filters to absorb, reflect or otherwise block UVR. The mechanisms by which UV filters dissipate energy following photoexcitation, i.e. their photodynamics, can crucially determine a molecule's performance as a sunscreen UV filter. In this work, we evaluate the effects of substituent position on the in-solution relaxation pathways of two derivates of methyl anthranilate (an ortho compound that is a precursor to the UV filter meradimate), meta- and para-methyl anthranilate, m-MA and p-MA, respectively. The photodynamics of m-MA were found to be sensitive to solvent polarity: its emission spectra show larger Stokes shifts with increasing polarity, and both the fluorescence quantum yield and lifetimes for m-MA increase in polar solvents. While the Stokes shifts for p-MA are much milder and more independent of solvent environment than those of m-MA, we find its fluorescence quantum yields to be sensitive not only to solvent polarity but to the hydrogen bonding character of the solvent. In both cases (m- and p-MA) we have found common computational methods to be insufficient to appropriately model the observed spectroscopic data, likely due to an inability to account for explicit solvent interactions, a known challenge in computational chemistry. Therefore, apart from providing insight into the photodynamics of anthranilate derivatives, the work presented here also provides a case study that may be of use to theoretical chemists looking to improve and develop explicit solvent computational methods.

Thermal desorption effects on fragment ion production from multi-photon ionized uridine and selected analogues

Experiments on neutral gas-phase nucleosides are often complicated by thermal lability. Previous mass spectrometry studies of nucleosides have identified enhanced relative production of nucleobase ions (e.g. uracil⁺ from uridine) as a function of desorption temperature to be the critical indicator of thermal decomposition. On this basis, the present multi-photon ionization (MPI) experiments demonstrate that laser-based thermal desorption is effective for producing uridine, 5-methyluridine, and 2′-deoxyuridine targets without thermal decomposition. Our experiments also revealed one notable thermal dependence: the relative production of the sugar ion C₅H₉O₄⁺ from intact uridine increased substantially with the desorption laser power and this only occurred at MPI wavelengths below 250 nm (full range studied 222–265 nm). We argue that this effect can only be rationalized plausibly in terms of changing populations of different isomers, tautomers, or conformers in the target as a function of the thermal desorption conditions. Furthermore, the wavelength threshold behavior of this thermally-sensitive MPI channel indicates a critical dependence on neutral excited state dynamics between the absorption of the first and second photons. The experimental results are complemented by density functional theory (DFT) optimizations of the lowest-energy structure of uridine and two further conformers distinguished by different orientations of the hydroxymethyl group on the sugar part of the molecule. The energies of the transitions states between these three conformers are low compared with the energy required for decomposition.

This work reveals the first experimental evidence supporting isomer-dependence in the radiation response of a nucleoside.

Insights and controversies on sunscreen safety

Although sunlight provides several benefits, ultraviolet (UV) radiation plays an important role in the development of various skin damages such as erythema, photoaging, and photocarcinogenesis. Despite cells having endogenous defense systems, damaged DNA may not be efficiently repaired at chronic exposure. In this sense, it is necessary to use artificial defense strategies such as sunscreen formulations. UV filters should scatter, reflect, or absorb solar UV radiation in order to prevent direct or indirect DNA lesions. However, the safety of UV filters is a matter of concern due to several controversies reported in literature, such as endocrine alterations, allergies, increased oxidative stress, phototoxic events, among others. Despite these controversies, the way in which sunscreens are tested is essential to ensure safety. Sunscreen regulation includes mandatory test for phototoxicity, but photogenotoxicity testing is not recommended as a part of the standard photosafety testing program. Although available photobiological tests are still the first approach to assess photosafety, they are limited. Some existing tests do not always provide reliable results, mainly due to limitations regarding the nature of the assessed phototoxic effect, cell UV sensitivity, and the irradiation protocols. These aspects bring queries regarding the safety of sunscreen wide use and suggest the demand for the development of robust and efficient in vitro screening tests to overcome the existing limitations. In this way, Saccharomyces cerevisiae has stood out as a promising model to fill the gaps in photobiology and to complete the mandatory tests enabling a more extensive and robust photosafety assessment.

The effect of deuteration on the keto-enol equilibrium and photostability of the sunscreen agent avobenzone

The remarkable properties of deuterium have led to many exciting and favourable results in enhancing material properties, for applications in the physical, medical, and biological sciences. Deuterated isotopologues of avobenzone, a sunscreen active ingredient, were synthesised to examine for any changes to the equilibrium between the diketone and enol isomers, as well as their UV photostability and photoprotective properties. Prior to UV irradiation, deuteration of the diketone methylene/enol moiety (i.e. avobenzone-d2) led to an increase in the % diketone compared to non-deuterated, determined by 1H NMR experiments in CDCl3 and C6D12. This can be rationalised from two angles; mechanistically by a deuterium kinetic isotope effect for the CH vs. CD abstraction step during tautomerisation from the diketone to the enol, and a weaker chelating hydrogen bond for the enol when deuterated allowing increased equilibration to the diketone. Avobenzone-d2 was further examined by solid state 13C NMR. The higher % diketone for avobenzone-d2 was postulated to favour increased photodegradation by a non-reversible pathway. This was investigated by UV irradiation of the avobenzone isotopologues in C6D12, both in real time in situ within the NMR by fibre optic cable as well as ex situ using sunlight. An increase in the relative amount of photoproducts for avobenzone-d2 compared to non-deuterated was observed by 1H NMR upon UV irradiation ex situ. Overall, the study demonstrates that deuteration can be applied to alter complex equilibria, and has potential to be manifested as changes to the properties and behaviour of materials.

Unravelling the Photoprotective Mechanisms of Nature-Inspired Ultraviolet Filters Using Ultrafast Spectroscopy

There are several drawbacks with the current commercially available ultraviolet (UV) filters used in sunscreen formulations, namely deleterious human and ecotoxic effects. As a result of the drawbacks, a current research interest is in identifying and designing new UV filters. One approach that has been explored in recent years is to use nature as inspiration, which is the focus of this review. Both plants and microorganisms have adapted to synthesize their own photoprotective molecules to guard their DNA from potentially harmful UV radiation. The relaxation mechanism of a molecule after it has been photoexcited can be unravelled by several techniques, the ones of most interest for this review being ultrafast spectroscopy and computational methods. Within the literature, both techniques have been implemented on plant-, and microbial-inspired UV filters to better understand their photoprotective roles in nature. This review aims to explore these findings for both families of nature-inspired UV filters in the hope of guiding the future design of sunscreens.

Understanding the role played by protic ionic liquids (PILs) and the substituent effect for enhancing the generation of Z-cinnamic acid derivatives†

Photoisomerization of a series of substituted E-cinnamic acids in MeCN in their acid forms and as their corresponding protic ionic liquids (PILs) with light of 300 nm is studied. The nature, strength, number, and position effects of substituents on the photochemical behavior of E-cinnamic derivatives are investigated. The photosensitization of the reaction in the presence of Michler's ketone is also studied at 366 nm and it demonstrates that the triplet-excited state is involved in the reaction. As the presence of n-butylamine needed to form the PILs significantly increases the photoproduct yields in all cases, the role of the PILs is also discussed. Thus, understanding of these fundamental aspects has allowed us to establish an excellent and practical synthetic protocol for successfully synthesizing Z-cinnamic acids.

Insights into the photoprotection mechanism of the UV filter homosalate

Homosalate has been found to exhibit favourable photophysics for inclusion in sunscreens, using a combination of spectroscopic and computational approaches.

Unravelling photoprotection in microbial natural products

Mycosporine-like amino acids have long been known as a natural form of photoprotection for fungi and cyanobacteria. This review will highlight the key time-resolved experimental and theoretical techniques unravelling their photochemistry and photophysics, and directly link this to their use in commercial skin-care products, namely as sunscreen filters. Three case studies have been selected, each having aided advancement in this burgeoning field of research. We discuss these studies in the context of photoprotection and conclude by evaluating the necessary future steps towards translating the photochemistry and photophysics insight of these nature derived sunscreen filters to commercial application.

Molecular modeling as a design tool for sunscreen candidates: a case study of bemotrizinol

Sunscreen-based photoprotection is an important strategy to prevent photoaging and skin cancer. Among the effective and modern sunscreens, triazine compounds are known as an important class based on their physical-chemical properties, such as photostability and UV broad-spectrum absorption (UVA and UVB). Molecular modeling and quantum mechanical calculations approaches can be helpful to orientate the design of sunscreens. Herein, a case study is presented to demonstrate the importance of the molecular modeling as a design tool for promising sunscreen candidates based on the synthesis research previously described of bemotrizinol, a broad-spectrum photostable organic UV filter present in many sunscreens products. Time-dependent density functional theory (TD-DFT) calculations performed in gas phase on the isolated organic UV filters proved to reproduce the experimental UV absorption, guiding the choice of the most efficient candidate as sunscreen. The present work highlights the importance of molecular modeling as an effective tool to support synthesis research, increasing the possibility of obtaining promising compounds with reduced costs and effluent production. Graphical abstractA case study to demonstrate the importance of the molecular modeling as a design tool for promising sunscreen candidates is presented. The method proved to be a valuable tool to reproduce the experimental UV absorption and to determinate the most efficient molecule as sunscreen among the candidates.

The direct observation of the doorway 1nπ* state of methylcinnamate and hydrogen-bonding effects on the photochemistry of cinnamate-based sunscreens

The electronic states and photochemistry including nonradiative decay (NRD) and trans(E) → cis(Z) isomerization of methylcinnamate (MC) and its hydrogen-bonded complex with methanol have been investigated under jet-cooled conditions. S1(1nπ*) and S2(1ππ*) are directly observed in MC. This is the first direct observation of S1(1nπ*) in cinnamate derivatives. Surprisingly, the order of the energies between the nπ* and ππ* states is opposite to substituted cinnamates. TD-DFT and SAC-CI calculations support the observed result and show that the substitution to the benzene ring largely lowers the 1ππ* energy while the effect on 1nπ* is rather small. The S2(ππ*) state lifetime of MC is determined to be equal to or shorter than 10 ps, and the production of the transient T1 state is observed. The T1(ππ*) state is calculated to have a structure in which propenyl C[double bond, length as m-dash]C is twisted by 90°, suggesting the trans → cis isomerization proceeds via T1. The production of the cis isomer is confirmed by low-temperature matrix-isolated FTIR spectroscopy. The effect of H-bonding is examined for the MC-methanol complex. The S2 lifetime of MC-methanol is determined to be 180 ps, indicating that the H-bonding to the C[double bond, length as m-dash]O group largely prohibits the 1ππ* → 1nπ* internal conversion. This lifetime elongation in the methanol complex also describes well a higher fluorescence quantum yield of MC in methanol solution than in cyclohexane, while such a solvent dependence is not observed in para-substituted MC. Determination of the photochemical reaction pathways of MC and MC-methanol will help us to design photofunctional cinnamate derivatives.