Application of Marine Microbial Natural Products in Cosmetics

Marine cosmetics and the blue bioeconomy: From sourcing to success stories

As the global population continues to grow, so does the demand for longer, healthier lives and environmentally responsible choices. Consumers are increasingly drawn to naturally sourced products with proven health and wellbeing benefits. The marine environment presents a promising yet underexplored resource for the cosmetics industry, offering bioactive compounds with the potential for safe and biocompatible ingredients. This manuscript provides a comprehensive overview of the potential of marine organisms for cosmetics production, highlighting marine-derived compounds and their applications in skin/hair/oral-care products, cosmeceuticals and more. It also lays down critical safety considerations and addresses the methodologies for sourcing marine compounds, including harvesting, the biorefinery concept, use of systems biology for enhanced product development, and the relevant regulatory landscape. The review is enriched by three case studies: design of macroalgal skincare products in Iceland, establishment of a microalgal cosmetics spin-off in Italy, and the utilization of marine proteins for cosmeceutical applications.

Collagenase and Tyrosinase Inhibitory Compounds from Fish Gut Bacteria Ruegeria atlantica and Pseudoalteromonas neustonica

Ruegeria atlantica and Pseudoalteromonas neustonica are fish gut bacteria that have been isolated from the guts of Pagrus major and Acanthopagrus schlegelii, respectively. A total of 22 compounds (1-22) were isolated from these two bacteria; 16 compounds (1-16) from R. atalantica and 6 compounds (17-22) from P. neustonica. Their chemical structures were elucidated by spectroscopic and spectrometric data analysis and chemical synthesis. Compounds 11 and 13 showed strong collagenase inhibitory activity, with 31.91% and 36.43% at 20 μM, respectively, comparable to or surpassing that of the positive control epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG, 34.66%). Also, compounds 11 and 14 exhibited a mild tyrosinase inhibitory effect of 6.73% and 13.68%, respectively. All of the tested compounds displayed no significant antibacterial activity against Escherichia coli and Bacillus subtilis up to 100 μM. The collagenase- and tyrosinase-inhibitory compound 11, cyclo(l-Pro-d-Leu), was found to be stable under heat (50 °C) and UV light (254 and 365 nm) for up to 6 days. These results indicate that compound 11 could be developed into a cosmeceutical with antiaging effects.

Microbial pigments: Sources, current status, future challenges in cosmetics and therapeutic applications

Color serves as the initial attraction and offers a pleasing aspect. While synthetic colorants have been popular for many years, their adverse environmental and health effects cannot be overlooked. This necessitates the search for natural colorants, especially microbial colorants, which have proven and more effective. Pigment-producing microorganisms offer substantial benefits. Natural colors improve product marketability and bestow additional benefits, including antioxidant, antiaging, anticancer, antiviral, antimicrobial, and antitumor properties. This review covers the various types of microbial pigments, the methods to enhance their production, and their cosmetic and therapeutic applications. We also address the challenges faced during the commercial production of microbial pigments and propose potential solutions.

Assessment of the photoprotective potential and structural characterization of secondary metabolites of Antarctic fungus Arthrinium sp

Interest in Antarctic fungi has grown due to their resilience in harsh environments, suggesting the presence of valuable compounds from its organisms, such as those presenting photoprotective potential, since this environment suffers the most dangerous UV exposure in the world. Therefore, this research aimed to assess the photoprotective potential of compounds from sustainable marine sources, specifically seaweed-derived fungi from Antarctic continent. These studies led to discovery of photoprotective and antioxidant properties of metabolites from Arthrinium sp., an endophytic fungus from Antarctic brown algae Phaeurus antarcticus. From crude extract, fractions A-I were obtained and compounds 1-6 isolated from E and F fractions, namely 3-Hydroxybenzyl alcohol (1), (-)-orthosporin (2), norlichexanthone (3), anomalin B (4), anomalin A (5), and agonodepside B (6). Compounds 1, 2, and 6 were not previously reported in Arthrinium. Fraction F demonstrated excellent absorbance in both UVA and UVB regions, while compound 6 exhibited lower UVB absorbance, possibly due to synergistic effects. Fraction F and compound 6 displayed photostability and were non-phototoxic to HaCaT cells. They also exhibited antioxidant activity by reducing intracellular ROS production induced by UVA in keratinocyte monolayers and reconstructed human skin models (resulting in 34.6% and 30.2% fluorescence reduction) and did not show irritation potential in HET-CAM assay. Thus, both are promising candidates for use in sunscreens. It is noted that Fraction F does not require further purification, making it advantageous, although clinical studies are necessary to confirm its potential applicability for sunscreen formulations.

Macrocystis pyrifera ferment-containing creams for optimizing facial skin rejuvenation

BACKGROUND

There is an increasing demand for facial skin rejuvenation. Specialized aesthetic skincare treatments may be one of the first steps to help prevent or treat facial signs of aging. This article discusses aesthetic skin care for facial skin rejuvenation, particularly data on two creams containing Macrocystis pyrifera ferment.

METHODS

The authors convened a dermatology advisory board to discuss challenges and practices in using skincare for facial rejuvenation, combining their expert opinion and experience on facial rejuvenation with preclinical and clinical data on two creams containing Macrocystis pyrifera ferment and a review of the literature.

RESULTS

Preclinical and clinical studies on Macrocystis pyrifera ferment and two creams containing the ferment exhibit anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and healing properties. In preclinical studies, the ferment demonstrated collagen type I enhancing properties in ex vivo skin models, and skin cells treated with the ferment migrated faster than untreated cells in the in vitro study. In clinical studies measuring visible anti-inflammatory activity, the ferment alone and the ferment-containing products significantly decreased erythema, and in anti-aging studies, they improved visible skin aging parameters. Finally, in clinical studies on the stratum corneum, the two creams increased moisture levels and decreased transepidermal water loss (TEWL), reflecting healing by enhancing barrier strength and recovery.

CONCLUSIONS

The Macrocystis pyrifera ferment and creams containing the ferment are effective skin care treatment products to decrease the visible effects of inflammation and signs of aging while promoting healing by enhancing barrier resilience and recovery.

Biopigments of Microbial Origin and Their Application in the Cosmetic Industry

Along with serving as a source of color, many microbial pigments have gained attention as interesting bioactive molecules with potential health advantages. These pigments have several applications in the food, agrochemical, medicine, and cosmetic industries. They have attracted the attention of these industries due to their high production value, low cost, stability, and biodegradability. Recently, many consumers worldwide have noted the impact of synthetic dyes; thus, natural pigments are more in demand than synthetic colors. On the other hand, the cosmetic industry has been moving toward greener manufacturing, from the formulation to the packaging material. Microbial pigments have several applications in the field of cosmetics due to their photoprotection, antioxidant, and antiaging properties, including inhibiting melanogenesis and acting as natural colorants for cosmetics, as some microorganisms are rich in pigments. More investigations are required to estimate the safety and efficacy of employing microbial pigments in cosmetic products. Furthermore, it is necessary to obtain information about DNA sequencing, metabolic pathways, and genetic engineering. In addition, unique habitats should be explored for novel pigments and new producing strains. Thus, new microbial pigments could be of consideration to the cosmetic industry, as they are ideal for future cosmetics with positive health effects.

Marine Natural Products as Innovative Cosmetic Ingredients

Over the course of the last 20 years, numerous studies have identified the benefits of an array of marine natural ingredients for cosmetic purposes, as they present unique characteristics not found in terrestrial organisms. Consequently, several marine-based ingredients and bioactive compounds are under development, used or considered for skin care and cosmetics. Despite the multitude of cosmetics based on marine sources, only a small proportion of their full potential has been exploited. Many cosmetic industries have turned their attention to the sea to obtain innovative marine-derived compounds for cosmetics, but further research is needed to determine and elucidate the benefits. This review gathers information on the main biological targets for cosmetic ingredients, different classes of marine natural products of interest for cosmetic applications, and the organisms from which such products can be sourced. Although organisms from different phyla present different and varied bioactivities, the algae phylum seems to be the most promising for cosmetic applications, presenting compounds of many classes. In fact, some of these compounds present higher bioactivities than their commercialized counterparts, demonstrating the potential presented by marine-derived compounds for cosmetic applications (i.e., Mycosporine-like amino acids and terpenoids’ antioxidant activity). This review also summarizes the major challenges and opportunities faced by marine-derived cosmetic ingredients to successfully reach the market. As a future perspective, we consider that fruitful cooperation among academics and cosmetic industries could lead to a more sustainable market through responsible sourcing of ingredients, implementing ecological manufacturing processes, and experimenting with inventive recycling and reuse programs.