Vegetable Butters and Oils as Therapeutically and Cosmetically Active Ingredients for Dermal Use: A Review of Clinical Studies

Amaranthus cruentus L. Seed Oil Counteracts UVA-Radiation-Induced Inhibition of Collagen Biosynthesis and Wound Healing in Human Skin Fibroblasts

The effect of Amaranthus cruentus L. seed oil (AmO) on collagen biosynthesis and wound healing was studied in cultured human dermal fibroblasts exposed to UVA radiation. It was found that UVA radiation inhibited collagen biosynthesis, prolidase activity, and expression of the β1-integrin receptor, and phosphorylated ERK1/2 and TGF-β, while increasing the expression of p38 kinase. The AmO at 0.05-0.15% counteracted the above effects induced by UVA radiation in fibroblasts. UVA radiation also induced the expression and nuclear translocation of the pro-inflammatory NF-κB factor and enhanced the COX-2 expression. AmO effectively suppressed the expression of these pro-inflammatory factors induced by UVA radiation. Expressions of β1 integrin and IGF-I receptors were decreased in the fibroblasts exposed to UVA radiation, while AmO counteracted the effects. Furthermore, AmO stimulated the fibroblast's migration in a wound healing model, thus facilitating the repair process following exposure of fibroblasts to UVA radiation. These data suggest the potential of AmO to counteract UVA-induced skin damage.

Bathing in Atopic Dermatitis in Pediatric Age: Why, How and When

Atopic dermatitis is a chronic inflammatory skin disease. The treatment plays an important role in influencing the patients' quality of life. The basic management consists of appropriate skin cleansing, including bathing and eventually using bathing additives. Recommendations regarding frequency and duration of bathing, water temperature and usefulness of bathing additives are widely different, often leading to confusion among patients. This review aims to give insights into the best bathing practices and the use of bathing additives in atopic dermatitis in children. Several bathing additives, including bleach baths, commercial baby cleansers, bath baby oils and bath salt, appear to be promising adjunctive therapies for atopic dermatitis due to their anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, anti-pruritus and skin barrier repair properties through different mechanisms of action. However, their efficacy and safety are not fully understood in some cases. The usefulness of other bath additives, such as acidic and more natural substances (green tea extracts, pine tar, sodium bicarbonate), is still under investigation. Further studies are needed to determine their optimal use to achieve clinical benefit safely.

Plants with cosmetic uses

The use of plants as a source of active principles for cosmetics has significantly increased in the last few years. Safety, compatibility with all types of skin, fewer side effects, and availability are among the advantages of herbal cosmetics above synthetic ingredients. The present review aims to explore the most important plants used in cosmetics. A literature search was carried out in several electronic databases with the following phrases: skincare and plants; cosmetics and plants; natural and cosmetics; and natural and skincare. Furthermore, more detailed filters such as clinical studies, meta-analyses, and systemic reviews were applied to positive results. Various plants and plant extracts currently used in skin care, scaring, whitening, and aging, as well as in sun protection, acne, eczema, and others, have been included in this review. The effectiveness of these plants is based mainly on preclinical research, and to a lesser extent on clinical studies. Some plant extracts or oils have been tested clinically, such as onions, aloe, and tea tree oil, more than other plant extracts. Despite many studies on natural products to improve dermal needs, proper clinical cosmeceutical trials are much fewer than expected. Therefore, more clinical trials are needed to evaluate appropriate efficacy. Furthermore, new formulation technologies might enhance the cosmeceutical benefits, but more work is warranted.

Resolved Psoriasis with Abundant Oleic Acid in Stratum Corneum Exhibits Lower T-Cell-Driven IL-17 Signature

Relapses of psoriasis involve T cells that stem and survive in the skin. Inherited from previous flares, the tissue-resident memory T cells are epidermal IL-17-producing CD8+ and IL-22-producing CD4+ T cells. Because the capacity of resident memory T cells to take in fatty acids is essential for their residence and function, the surface composition of fatty acids may affect underlying T-cell populations. In patients treated with biologics, we used gas chromatography/mass spectrometry to decipher the fatty acid composition in both resolved and nonlesional sites. Skin T cells were activated by OKT-3 in explants from the same body sites to perform bulk transcriptomic analysis (Nanostring). The fatty acid composition differed between skin from healthy donors and normal-looking skin of patients with psoriasis but not further between nonlesional and resolved skin. Patients in whom the resolved skin was rich in oleic acid had lower T-cell-driven IL-17 epidermal transcriptomic signature upon activation of T cells in skin explants. The skin lipid composition is linked with the functions of the underlying epidermal T cells. Testing the modulating effect of custom fatty acids on skin resident T cells could help with coming closer to disease oblivion in inflammatory skin diseases.

Preliminary Approaches to Cosmeceuticals Emulsions Based on N-ProlylPalmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetat-Bakuchiol Complex Intended to Combat Skin Oxidative Stress

This study focuses on the development of a performant formulation for O/W dermato-cosmetic emulsions, which can be incorporated into novel dermato-cosmetic products or used as such. The O/W dermato-cosmetic emulsions contain an active complex based on a plant-derived monoterpene phenol, bakuchiol (BAK) and a signaling peptide named n-prolyl palmitoyl tripeptide-56 acetate (TPA). As a dispersed phase, we used a mix of vegetable oils, and as a continuous phase, Rosa damascena hydrosol was employed. Three emulsions containing different concentrations of the active complex were formulated (0.5% BAK + 0.5% TPA = E.1.1., 1% BAK + 1%TPA = E.1.2., 1% BAK + 2% TPA = E.1.3.). Stability testing was performed through sensory analysis, stability after centrifugation, conductivity and optical microscopy. A preliminary in vitro study regarding the diffusion ability of antioxidants through chicken skin was also undertaken. DPPH and ABTS assays were used to highlight the optimal concentration and combination in the formulation in terms of antioxidant properties and safety level of the active complex (BAK/TPA). Our results showed that the active complex used for preparing emulsions with BAK and TPA showed good antioxidant activity and is suitable for obtaining topical products with potential antiaging effects.

Evaluation of the Phytochemistry-Therapeutic Activity Relationship for Grape Seeds Oil

Seeds' abundant biologically active compounds make them a suitable primary platform for the production of natural extracts, innovative foods, medicines, and cosmetics. High levels of industrial and agricultural residues and byproducts are generated during the processing of grapes, although some parts can also be repurposed. This paper examines the phytochemical composition, manufacturing processes, and health-improving attributes of many varieties of grape oil derived using various extraction methods. Since the results are influenced by a range of factors, they are expressed differently among studies, and the researchers employ a variety of measuring units, making it difficult to convey the results. The primary topics covered in most papers are grape seed oil's lipophilic fatty acids, tocopherols, and phytosterols. In addition, new methods for extracting grape seed oil should therefore be designed; these methods must be affordable, energy-efficient, and environmentally friendly in order to increase the oil's quality by extracting bioactive components and thereby increasing its biological activity in order to become part of the overall management of multiple diseases.