Glycerolic Licorice Extracts as Active Cosmeceutical Ingredients: Extraction Optimization, Chemical Characterization, and Biological Activity

Plant Tissue Culture: Industrial Relevance and Future Directions

Plant tissue culture has evolved in the last decades with several types of cultures being developed to promote a more sustainable food production system. Moreover, these cultures can be applied for the production of relevant metabolites with medicinal potential, thus contributing to nutrition and healthcare. Importantly, plant micropropagation has enabled agricultural expansion and tissue culture has emerged as a promising production alternative for several plants and their metabolites in the food, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical industries. Plant tissue cultures present several advantages over conventional propagation techniques as they are season independent, enabling a continuous supply of the plants/compounds of interest, with the guarantee of high phytosanitary quality. In addition, genetic uniformity is generally maintained, thus reducing chemical variability that can compromise safety and efficacy. Nevertheless, despite their undeniable potential, with many researchers focusing on new strategies to improve production yield in cell cultures, such as with the use of elicitors or resorting to metabolomics engineering, an effective and lucrative large-scale production has yet to be obtained. Indeed, only a few compounds with market value are produced in this regard and several limitations such as contaminations, low culture yield and production costs still need to be overcome in order to take advantage of the full potential of these techniques.

Enhancement of the biological activity of hydroxytyrosol through its oxidation by laccase from Trametes versicolor

The laccase-catalyzed oxidation of hydroxytyrosol (HT) towards the formation of its bioactive oligomer derivatives was investigated. The biocatalytic oligomerization was catalyzed by laccase from Trametes versicolor in aqueous or various water-miscible organic solvents and deep eutectic solvent (DES)-based media. Mass Spectroscopy and Nuclear Magnetic Resonance were used for the characterization of the products. The solvent system used significantly affects the degree of HT oligomerization. The use of 50 % v/v methanol favored the production of the HT dimer, while other organic solvents as well as DESs led to the formation of hydroxytyrosol trimer and other oligomers. In vitro studies showed that the HT dimer exhibits 3- to 4-fold enhanced antibacterial activity against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria compared to the parent compound. Moreover, the ability of HT dimer to inhibit the activity of soybean lipoxygenase and Candida rugosa lipase was 1.5-fold higher than HT, while molecular docking supported these results. Furthermore, HT dimer showed reduced cytotoxicity against HEK293 cells and exhibited a strong ability to inhibit ROS formation. The enhanced bioactivity of HT dimer indicates that this compound could be considered for use in cosmetics, skin-care products, and nutraceuticals.

Tracing the pathways and mechanisms involved in the anti-breast cancer activity of glycyrrhizin using bioinformatics tools and computational methods

A complete investigation to understand the pathways that could be affected by glycyrrhizin (licorice), as anti-breast cancer (BC) agent, has not been performed to date. This study aims to investigate the pathways involved in the anti-cancer activity of glycyrrhizin against BC. For this purpose, the target genes of glycyrrhizin were obtained from the ChEMBL database. The BC-associated genes for three types of BC (breast carcinoma, malignant neoplasm of breast, and triple-negative breast neoplasms) were retrieved from DisGeNET. The target genes of glycyrrhizin and the BC-associated genes were compared, and the genes with disease specificity index (DSI) > 0.6 were selected for further evaluation using in silico methods. The protein-protein interaction (PPI) network was constructed, and the Gene Ontology (GO) and Kyoto Encyclopedia of Genes and Genomes (KEGG) pathways were analyzed. The potential complexes were further evaluated using molecular dynamics (MD) simulation. The results revealed that among 80 common genes, ten genes had DSI greater than 0.6, which included POLK, TACR2, MC3R, TBXAS1, HH1R, SLCO4A1, NPY2R, ADRA2C, ADRA1A, and SLCO2B1. The binding affinity of glycyrrhizin to the cognate proteins and binding characteristics were assessed using molecular docking and binding free energy calculations (MM/GBSA). POLK, TBXAS1, and ADRA1A showed the highest binding affinity with -8.9, -9.3, and -9.6 kcal/mol, respectively. The final targets had an association with BC at several stages of tumor growth. By affecting these targets, glycyrrhizin could influence and control BC efficiently. MD simulation suggested the pathways triggered by the complex glycyrrhizin-ADRA1A were more likely to happen.Communicated by Ramaswamy H. Sarma.

An all-in-one platform to deplete pathogenic bacteria for rapid and safe enrichment of plant-derived extracellular vesicles

Plant-derived extracellular vesicles (PDEVs) have exhibited several advantages, such as high biocompatibility, improvement of skin conditions, and the prevention of skin aging. However, traditional methods of extraction for plant substances, such as heating under reflux or solvent extraction, are complicated, time-consuming, and low in purity. Accordingly, a simple and efficient platform is necessary for purely isolating natural substances from plants. In this study, we report a newly designed platform for removing impurities to purify PDEVs. The proposed platform comprises three parts: (i) inflow of samples, (ii) depletion of impurities, and (iii) collection of PDEVs. The platform is designed to flow from top to bottom using gravity without the need for electric components. The platform allows the delimitation of impurities, such as the pathogenic bacteria in PDEVs, by capturing magnetic beads coated with Concanavalin A (Con A). We validate the practicality of our platform using extracellular vesicles derived from liquorice (LdEVs). Notably, the LdEVs purified using the Con A-coated magnetic beads provide better cell uptake and wound recovery than the commercialized extract LdEVs. This highlights the therapeutic potential of fresh LdEVs purified using our platform, particularly in preventing skin aging. The findings of this study hold significant practical implications for the cosmeceutical and therapeutic field, providing a promising approach for the extraction and purification of natural substances from plants to harness their benefits effectively.

Phytochemical Screening and Antioxidant Potential of Selected Extracts from Betula alba var. pendula Roth., Glycyrrhiza glabra L., and Avena sativa L

The aim of the present study was to obtain, characterize, and evaluate the antioxidant potential of some extracts obtained from the bark of Betula alba var. pendula Roth., the root of Glycyrrhiza glabra L., and the green herb of the Avena sativa. The results revealed that the lowest IC50 value, determined by all three methods, was obtained for Betulae extractum (BE) (73.6 µg/mL-DPPH method, 11.2 µg/mL-ABTS method, and 58.7 µg/mL-FRAP method), followed by Liquiritiae extractum (LE) (805.6 µg/mL, 92.1 µg/mL, and 722 µg/mL) and Avenae extractum (1.13 mg/mL-DPPH method, 99.7 µg/mL-ABTS method, and 135.1 µg/mL-FRAP method). These results correlate with total polyphenols content (expressed in g tannic acid/100 g dry extract), with BE having more polyphenols than LE and AE (47.96 ± 9.7083 for BE, compared with 9.31 ± 0.9913 for LE and 40.55 ± 6.3715 for AE). The total flavonoid content (expressed as g rutoside/100 g dry extract) is similar for BE and LE (3.75 ± 0.3140 and 3.44 ± 0.3037) and smaller for AE (1.95 ± 0.0526). Therefore, Betulae extractum has the strongest antioxidant action, with an IC50 value very close to the standard used as a reference (ascorbic acid-16.5 μg/mL solution). The FT-ICR-MS analysis confirmed the presence of the major compounds in all three extracts. The antioxidant properties of the studied extracts were further supported by molecular docking experiments that revealed the potential of the analyzed phytochemicals to act as both noncovalent and covalent activators of the Nrf2 signaling pathway, with promising benefits in treating various skin disorders.

Bioactive Peptides and Protein Hydrolysates as Lipoxygenase Inhibitors

Lipoxygenases are non-heme iron-containing enzymes that catalyze the oxidation of polyunsaturated fatty acids, resulting in the production of lipid hydroperoxides, which are precursors of inflammatory lipid mediators. These enzymes are widely distributed in humans, other eukaryotes, and cyanobacteria. Lipoxygenases hold promise as therapeutic targets for several human diseases, including cancer and inflammation-related disorders. Inhibitors of lipoxygenase have potential applications in pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, and food. Bioactive peptides are short amino acid sequences embedded within parent proteins, which can be released by enzymatic hydrolysis, microbial fermentation, and gastrointestinal digestion. A wide variety of bioactivities have been documented for protein hydrolysates and peptides derived from different biological sources. Recent findings indicate that protein hydrolysates and peptides derived from both edible and non-edible bioresources can act as lipoxygenase inhibitors. This review aims to provide an overview of the current knowledge regarding the production of anti-lipoxygenase protein hydrolysates and peptides from millet grains, chia seeds, insects, milk proteins, fish feed, velvet antler blood, fish scales, and feather keratins. The anti-lipoxygenase activities and modes of action of these protein hydrolysates and peptides are discussed. The strengths and shortcomings of previous research in this area are emphasized. Additionally, potential research directions and areas for improvement are suggested to accelerate the discovery of anti-lipoxygenase peptides in the near future.

Hydroxypropyl-β-Cyclodextrin-Glycerol-Assisted Extraction of Phenolics from Satureja montana L.: Optimization, Anti-Elastase and Anti-Hyaluronidase Properties of the Extracts

A green method for hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin-glycerol-assisted extraction (HCGAE) of bioactive phenolics from S. montana, Lamiaceae was optimized using Box-Behnken design and response surface methodology and compared conventional water/ethanol-based extraction. The procedure was aimed at obtaining extracts with the maximum content of total phenols (TP), flavonoids (TF), dihydroxycinnamic acids (TDCA), rosmarinic acid (RA), and luteolin 7-O-glucoside (LG). The impact of glycerol content (0–70%), 2-hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin content (0–0.4 mmol), temperature (20–70 °C), herbal material weight (0.3–0.8 g), extraction duration (5–25 min), and ultrasound power (144–720 W) on the extraction efficiency was analyzed. Four extracts with maximum amounts of target phenols, OPT-TP (5.93 mg/mL), OPT-TDCA-RA (4.17 mg/mL and 1.16 mg/mL, respectively), OPT-TF (0.99 mg/mL), and OPT-LG (0.28 mg/mL) were prepared. Comparison of the content of TDCA, TF, RA, and LG with those obtained in water/ethanol-based extraction demonstrated the superiority of the HCGAE approach for the extraction of phenols from S. montana. The extracts displayed good anti-elastase and excellent anti-hyaluronidase activity. IC50 values of the anti-hyaluronidase activity (1.67 ± 0.06 μL extract/mL, 1.16 ± 0.08 μL extract/mL, 0.85 ± 0.03 μL extract/mL, and 0.79 ± 0.05 μL extract/mL for OPT-TP, OPT-TDCA-RA, OPT-TF, and OPT-LG, respectively) surpassed that of the applied positive control, tannic acid. The observed bioactivity of the optimized extracts makes them promising active ingredients for natural cosmetics. The results of this research indicate that HCGAE is an excellent alternative to conventional water/ethanol-based extraction of phenolics from Satureja montana L.-yielding extracts with potent anti-elastase and anti-hyaluronidase properties suitable for direct use in cosmetic products.

Hydroxypropyl-β-Cyclodextrin-Based Helichrysum italicum Extracts: Antioxidant and Cosmeceutical Activity and Biocompatibility

Two Helichrysum italicum extracts, OPT-1 (rich in phenolic acids) and OPT-2 (rich in total phenols and flavonoids), were prepared using hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin (HP-β-CD)-assisted extraction. The prepared extracts were rich in phenolic compounds, including flavonoids and phenolic acids. GC-MS analysis of the extracts identified neryl acetate, neo-intermedeol, β-selinene, γ-curcumene, italidione I, and nerol as the main volatile components of the extracts, as well as plant sterols, γ-sitosterol, campesterol, and stigmasterol. The antioxidant (DPPH radical scavenging, reducing power, and a carotene linoleic acid assay) and cosmeceutical (anti-hyaluronidase, anti-tyrosinase, anti-lipoxygenase, ovalbumin anti-coagulation, and a UV-absorption assay) activity of the extracts in most of the assays was better than the activity of the applied positive controls. Especially low were the IC50 values of the extracts in the anti-hyaluronidase (14.31 ± 0.29 μL extract/mL and 19.82 ± 1.53 μL extract/mL for OPT-1 and OPT-2, respectively) and the anti-lipoxygenase (0.96 ± 0.11 μL extract/mL and 1.07 ± 0.01 μL extract/mL for OPT-1 and OPT-2, respectively) assays. The extracts were non-toxic to HaCaT cells in concentrations of up to 62.5 µL extract/mL assuring their status as excellent candidates for cosmeceutical product development appropriate for direct use in cosmetic products without solvent evaporation.

Advances of Imidazolium Ionic Liquids for the Extraction of Phytochemicals from Plants

In this review, we present the research from 2013 to 2022 about the character of ionic liquids, the categories of phytochemicals, and the reasons for selecting imidazolium ionic liquids for phytochemical extraction. Then we introduce the structural formulae of the imidazolium ionic liquids commonly used in the extraction of phytochemicals, the methods used to prepare imidazolium ionic liquids, and a comprehensive introduction of how imidazolium ionic liquids are applied to extract phytochemicals from plants. Importantly, we discuss the strategies for studying the extraction mechanisms of imidazolium ionic liquids to extract phytochemicals, and the recovery methods regarding imidazolium ionic liquids and their recyclability are analyzed. Then the toxicity in imidazolium ionic liquids is pointed out. Finally, the challenges and prospects of extracting phytochemicals by imidazolium ionic liquids are summarized, and they are expected to provide some references for researchers.

Collagenase and Tyrosinase Inhibitory Activities and Stability of Facial Cream Formulation Containing Cashew Leaf Extract

The cashew tree (Anacardium occidentale L.) is a tropical plant found widely in many Southeast Asian countries, including Thailand, and contains bioactive phenolic compounds with antioxidant activity. The natural antioxidants such as collagenase and tyrosinase inhibitors found in medicinal plants are promising agents in cosmetic products. This study evaluated the inhibitory activities of the collagenase and tyrosinase from cashew leaf extracts by developing and evaluating the stability of facial cream formulations. The ethanol (DEN), ethyl acetate (DEA) and distilled water (DDW) crude extracts of cashew leaves were investigated for their bioactive compound efficacy. The DDW extract had the highest yield (24.97%). All the extracts were investigated for their antioxidant activities. The DEN extract showed the highest DPPH radical-scavenging ability, ferric-reducing power and flavonoid compounds, which were 152.04 ± 2.40 mg gallic acid/g extract, 37.90 ± 1.07 mg gallic acid/g dry weight and 7.63 ± 0.07 mg quercetin/g dry weight, respectively. The DDW extract exhibited the highest potent activity, which was 111.00 ± 0.78 mg gallic acid/g dry weight in terms of phenolic content, while the DEN extract showed the highest tyrosinase inhibition at 0.100 mg/mL (46.97 ± 3.34%) and collagenase activity at 40 µg/mL. The results suggested that the ethanolic extracts from cashew leaves showed promise for use in skincare product development. Cosmeceutical formulations for skincare were prepared. The formula mixed with DEN extract and added to whitening and anti-aging skincare cream demonstrated good stability and physical properties.

Glycerol and Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents Extraction for Preparation of Luteolin-Rich Jasione montana Extracts with Cosmeceutical Activity

Jasione montana is a plant from the family Campanulaceae rich in phenols with health-beneficial properties such as luteolin (LUT) derivatives. In this work, a glycerol-based ultrasound-assisted extraction method was developed and optimized for in total phenol (TP) and LUT content, as well as antiradical activity (RSA). The best conditions (glycerol content, temperature, plant material weight, and ultrasonication power) for the preparation of J. montana extracts richest in TP (OPT-TP), LUT (OPT-LUT), and having the best RSA (OPT-RSA) were determined. Furthermore, numerous natural deep eutectic solvents (NADES), containing proline, glycerol, betaine, urea, and glucose were prepared and used for the extraction of J. montana. Contents of TP, LUT, and RSA in the prepared extracts were established. Antioxidant and cosmeceutical activity of the prepared extracts was tested. The OPT-TP, OPT-LUT, and OPT-RSA, as well as the most efficient NADES-based extract, PG-50-TP, were excellent antioxidants and Fe²⁺ ion chelators. In addition, they were potent inhibitors of collagenase and hyaluronidase, as well as good significant anti-elastase and -lipoxygenase activity. The observed antioxidant- and enzyme-inhibiting activity of J. montana extracts prepared using environmentally friendly methods and non-toxic solvents makes them promising ingredients of cosmeceutical products.

Licorice zinc suppresses melanogenesis via inhibiting the activation of P38MAPK and JNK signaling pathway in C57BL/6J mice skin

PURPOSE

The active melanocytes in the skin were affected by hormones and ultraviolet (UV) irradiation. Licorice zinc has a whitening effect, which may have a prominent potential in the treatment of pigmented skin disease.

METHODS

Modeling chloasma C57BL/6J mice by daily progesterone injection (15 mg/kg) and ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation (λ = 312 nm, 2 h/day) for 30 days. Then, mice were given 0.65, 1.3, and 2.6 (g/kg) of licorice zinc and tranexamic acid 250 mg daily by oral administration for 14 days, respectively. Hematoxylin and eosin and Fontana-Masson staining, and Western blotting (WB) were performed to test the inhibitory of melanogenesis and activation of c-Jun-N-terminal (JNK)/p38 mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPK) for licorice zinc. Melanogenesis was induced by α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone in vitro. Cell counting kit-8, melanin content determination, and WB were performed to verify the inhibitory effect of licorice zinc on melanogenesis.

RESULTS

The present study showed that licorice zinc decreased melanin formation, cutaneous tissue injury, and the phosphorylation of JNK and P38MAPK, which was caused by UVB irradiation in vivo. In vitro, licorice zinc showed opposite effects from JNK/p38 activator. Meanwhile, tyrosinase-related protein-1, tyrosinase, and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor were decreased too.

CONCLUSIONS

Licorice zinc induced a decrease in melanin synthesis by inhibiting the JNK and the P38MAPK signaling pathway, suggesting licorice zinc is a potential agent of anti-chloasma.

Flavonoids as tyrosinase inhibitors in in silico and in vitro models: basic framework of SAR using a statistical modelling approach

Flavonoids are widely distributed in plants and constitute the most common polyphenolic phytoconstituents in the human diet. In this study, the in vitro inhibitory activity of 44 different flavonoids (1-44) against mushroom tyrosinase was studied, and an in silico study and type of inhibition for the most active compounds were evaluated too. Tyrosinase inhibitors block melanogenesis and take part in melanin production or distribution leading to pigmentation diseases. The in vitro study showed that quercetin was a competitive inhibitor (IC50=44.38 ± 0.13 µM) and achieved higher antityrosinase activity than the control inhibitor kojic acid. The in silico results highlight the importance of the flavonoid core with a hydroxyl at C7 as a strong contributor of interference with tyrosinase activity. According to the developed statistical model, the activity of molecules depends on hydroxylation at C3 and methylation at C8, C7, and C3 in the benzo-γ-pyrane ring of the flavonoids.

In Vitro Screening for Anti-Acetylcholinesterase and Antioxidant Activities of Hottonia palustris L. Extracts and Their Unusual Flavonoids

Hottonia palustris L. is from the genus Hottonia (Primulaceae), and the understanding of its phytochemical and pharmacological properties is limited. In this study, the use of chromatographic techniques led to the isolation of a further eleven compounds, including three new flavonoids: 2',5-dihydroxyflavone 2'-O-β-glucopyranoside, 5,6-dihydroxyflavone 6-O-(6"-O-glucopyranosyl)-β-glucopyranoside (hottonioside A), and 4',5,7-trihydroxyflavone 7-O-(2"-O-β-glucuronide)-β-glucopyranoside. Their structures were determined using extensive 1D and 2D NMR data and mass spectrometry (HRMS). The qualitative assessment of the chemical composition of the investigated extracts and fractions was performed using the LC-HRMS technique. Furthermore, the antioxidant potential of extracts, fractions, and compounds and their ability to inhibit acetylcholinesterase were also evaluated. Thus, we may conclude that the observed biological effects are the result of the presence of many biologically active compounds, of which dibenzoylmethane is the most active. Therefore, H. palustris is a source of substances with desirable properties in the prevention and treatment of neurodegenerative diseases.

Chemistry Combining Elemental Profile, Stable Isotopic Ratios, and Chemometrics for Fine Classification of a Chinese Herb Licorice (Glycyrrhiza uralensis Fisch.) from 37 Producing Area

A method based on elemental fingerprint, stable isotopic analysis and combined with chemometrics was proposed to trace the geographical origins of Licorice (Glycyrrhiza uralensis Fisch) from 37 producing areas. For elemental fingerprint, the levels of 15 elements, including Ca, Cu, Mg, Pb, Zn, Sr, Mn, Se, Cd, Fe, Na, Al, Cr, Co, and K, were analyzed by inductively coupled plasma atomic emission spectrometry (ICP-AES). Three stable isotopes, including δ ¹³C, δ ¹⁵N, and δ ¹⁸O, were measured using an isotope-ratio mass spectrometer (IRMS). For fine classification, three multiclass strategies, including the traditional one-versus-rest (OVR) and one-versus-one (OVO) strategies and a new ensemble strategy (ES), were combined with two binary classifiers, partial least squares discriminant analysis (PLSDA) and least squares support vector machines (LS-SVM). As a result, ES-PLSDA and ES-LS-SVM achieved 0.929 and 0.921 classification accuracy of GUF samples from the 37 origins. The results show that element fingerprint and stable isotope combined with chemometrics is an effective method for GUF traceability and provides a new idea for the geographical traceability of Chinese herbal medicine.

Role of Phytochemicals in Skin Photoprotection via Regulation of Nrf2

Ethnopharmacological studies have become increasingly valuable in the development of botanical products and their bioactive phytochemicals as novel and effective preventive and therapeutic strategies for various diseases including skin photoaging and photodamage-related skin problems including abnormal pigmentation and inflammation. Exploring the roles of phytochemicals in mitigating ultraviolet radiation (UVR)-induced skin damage is thus of importance to offer insights into medicinal and ethnopharmacological potential for development of novel and effective photoprotective agents. UVR plays a role in the skin premature aging (or photoaging) or impaired skin integrity and function through triggering various biological responses of skin cells including apoptosis, oxidative stress, DNA damage and inflammation. In addition, melanin produced by epidermal melanocytes play a protective role against UVR-induced skin damage and therefore hyperpigmentation mediated by UV irradiation could reflect a sign of defensive response of the skin to stress. However, alteration in melanin synthesis may be implicated in skin damage, particularly in individuals with fair skin. Oxidative stress induced by UVR contributes to the process of skin aging and inflammation through the activation of related signaling pathways such as the mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK)/activator protein-1 (AP-1), the phosphatidylinositol 3-kinase (PI3K)/protein kinase B (Akt), the nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB) and the signal transducer and activator of transcription (STAT) in epidermal keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts. ROS formation induced by UVR also plays a role in regulation of melanogenesis in melanocytes via modulating MAPK, PI3K/Akt and the melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R)-microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) signaling cascades. Additionally, nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2)-regulated antioxidant defenses can affect the major signaling pathways involved in regulation of photoaging, inflammation associated with skin barrier dysfunction and melanogenesis. This review thus highlights the roles of phytochemicals potentially acting as Nrf2 inducers in improving photoaging, inflammation and hyperpigmentation via regulation of cellular homeostasis involved in skin integrity and function. Taken together, understanding the role of phytochemicals targeting Nrf2 in photoprotection could provide an insight into potential development of natural products as a promising strategy to delay skin photoaging and improve skin conditions.

Wound Healing Properties of Jasione montana Extracts and Their Main Secondary Metabolites

The effects of different extracts obtained from Jasione montana L. (JM1-JM6) and their main metabolites on biological processes during wound healing were evaluated. The effect on wound closure in the scratch test was established, and collagen type I synthesis and anti-inflammatory effects were assessed by flow cytometry in a human dermal fibroblast model (PCS-201-012). Additionally, the antioxidant activity (DPPH and FRAP) and degree of inhibition of elastase participating in the proliferation processes of skin fibroblasts were determined in an in vitro model. The extracts and fractions were analyzed using high-performance liquid chromatography-photodiode array detection (HPLC-PDA) to quantitatively characterize their main polyphenolic compounds. The high antioxidant activity of the JM4-JM5 fractions correlated with the content of luteolin and its derivative 7-O-glucoside. Luteolin also showed the highest anti-elastase activity with an IC50 value of 39.93 ± 1.06 μg/mL, and its substantial content in the JM4 fraction presumably determines its activity (359.03 ± 1.65 μg/mL). At lower concentrations (<50 μg/mL) of all extracts, cell proliferation and migration were significantly stimulated after 24 h of treatment. The stimulation of cell migration was comparable with that of allantoin, which was used as a positive control. However, most of the tested extracts showed limited capacity to affect collagen type I biosynthesis. Moreover, the tested samples exhibited a complex effect on cytokine secretion, and the strongest anti-inflammatory activity through the moderation of IL-1β, IL-6 and IL-8 was observed for JM4 and luteolin. Based on the obtained results of the quantitative analysis, the anti-inflammatory activity of JM4 may be due to the high content of luteolin. In summary, extracts from J. montana, which is flavonoid-rich, promote the viability and accelerate the migration of fibroblasts as well as moderate oxidant and inflammatory processes and elastase activity. Hence, they may be potentially useful for topical therapeutic applications to stimulate the wound healing process.

Determination of Flavonoids in Selected Scleranthus Species and Their Anti-Collagenase and Antioxidant Potential

A new 5,7-dihydroxy-3′-methoxy-4′-acetoxyflavone-8-C-β-d-arabinopyranoside-2″-O-(4‴-acetoxy)-glucoside (6) and three known flavone C-glycosides—5,7,3′,4′-tetrahydroxyflavone-6-C-xyloside-8-C-β-d-glucoside (lucenin-1) (7), 5,7,3′-trihydroxyflavone-6-C-glucoside-8-C-β-d-glucoside (vicenin-2) (8), and 5,7,4′-trihydroxy-3′-methoxyflavone-6-C-β-d-glucopyranoside-8-C-α-arabinopyranoside (chrysoeriol-6-C-β-d-glucopyranoside-8-C-α-arabinopyranoside) (9)—were isolated from aerial parts of Scleranthus perennis L. (Caryophyllaceae). Their structures were determined through the use of comprehensive spectroscopic and spectrometric methods, and a method for the quantification of the major constituents of S. perennis and S. annuus L. was developed. Furthermore, the anti-collagenase and antioxidant activities of all isolated compounds obtained from extracts and fractions from both Scleranthus species were evaluated. The highest percentage of collagenase inhibition (at 400 µg/mL) was distinguished for methanolic extracts (22.06%, 32.04%) and ethyl acetate fractions (16.59%, 14.40%) from S. annuus and S. perennis. Compounds 6–9 displayed moderate inhibitory activity, with IC₅₀ values ranging from 39.59–73.86 µM.

Global Perspective of Plant-Based Cosmetic Industry and Possible Contribution of Sri Lanka to the Development of Herbal Cosmetics

The global consumption of plant-based cosmetics has shown spectacular growth in recent years because of rising consumer awareness regarding the long-term health benefits of natural ingredients. As the global demand for herbal cosmetics increases, there are ample opportunities for Sri Lanka as a tropical Asian country to expand its productions and global exports along with its unique biodiversity and inherited traditional knowledge. Therefore, the present review attempts to give an overview of the widely used medicinal plants in the global herbal cosmetic industry and strengths, challenges, and possible solutions for the development of the herbal cosmetic industry of Sri Lanka. Information was collected using electronic search (using Pub Med, Science Direct, Web of Science, Google Scholar, TEEAL, and Scopus) for articles published in peer-reviewed journals, industrial reports, market surveys, and library search for local books on ethnobotany. Important plant-derived ingredients used in the global herbal cosmetic industry are essential oils, colorants, oils, fats, and waxes. The traditional usage of 108 medicinal plant species (belonging to 58 families) in cosmetic treatments was identified from the local books of Sri Lanka. Of these, 49 plant species were reported as new ingredients for the herbal cosmetic industry. However, the lack of ethnobotanical and ethnopharmacological surveys to identify the cosmetic potential plants, insufficient or absence of continuous supply of raw materials for production in line with the existing demand, the lack of quality control of raw materials and finished cosmetic products, improper systematic cultivation systems for medicinal plants, poor postharvest practices, and the lack of innovations are major challenges encountered in Sri Lanka for the development of the herbal cosmetic industry. In conclusion, addressing these vital knowledge gaps is a timely requirement of the country for the sustainable development of the herbal cosmetic industry in Sri Lanka. Furthermore, assembling of the multidisciplinary cooperation of botanists, chemists, toxicologists, researchers, and biologists is crucial to analyze the interesting functional properties, efficacy, and effectiveness of documented medicinal plants with cosmetic potential.

Revisiting liquorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra L.) as anti-inflammatory, antivirals and immunomodulators: Potential pharmacological applications with mechanistic insight

BACKGROUND

Glycyrrhiza glabra L. (G. glabra) commonly known as liquorice is one of the highly exploited and utilized medicinal plant of the world. Since ancient times liquorice is considered as an auspicious and valuable traditional medicine across the world for treatment of various ailments.

METHOD

Several electronic online scientific databases such as Science Direct, PubMed, Scopus, Scifinder, Google Scholar, online books and reports were assessed for collecting information. All the collected information was classified into different sections to meet the objective of the paper.

RESULTS

The electronic database search yielded 3908 articles from different countries. Out of them one ninety-eight articles published between 1956 and 2021 were included, corresponding to all detailed review on G. glabra and research on anti-inflammatories, antivirals and immunomodulatory through pre-clinical and clinical models. From all selective area of studies on G. glabra and its bioactive components it was established (including molecular mechanisms) as a suitable remedy as per the current requirement of pandemic situation arise through respiratory tract infection.

CONCLUSION

Different relevant studies have been thoroughly reviewed to gain an insight on utility of liquorice and its bioactive constituents for anti-inflammatories, antivirals and immunomodulatory effects with special emphasized for prevention and treatment of COVID-19 infection with possible mechanism of action at molecular level. Proposed directions for future research are also outlined to encourage researchers to find out various mechanistic targets and useful value added products of liquorice in future investigations.

Ocular Effects of Glycyrrhizin at Acidic and Neutral pH

Purpose

To test the effects of acidic vs. neutral pH glycyrrhizin (GLY) on the unwounded and wounded normal mouse cornea and after infection with Pseudomonas aeruginosa isolates KEI 1025 and multidrug-resistant MDR9.

Methods

Acidic or neutral GLY vs. phosphate-buffered saline (PBS) was topically applied to normal or wounded corneas of C57BL/6 mice. In unwounded corneas, goblet cells and corneal nerves were stained and quantitated. After wounding, corneas were fluorescein stained and photographed using a slit lamp. Mice also were infected with KEI 1025 or MDR9 and the protective effects of GLY pH evaluated comparatively.

Results

In the unwounded cornea, application of acidic or neutral GLY vs. PBS reduced the number of bulbar conjunctival goblet cells but did not alter corneal nerve density. Similar application of GLY to scarified corneas delayed wound closure. After KEI 1025 infection, none of the GLY vs. PBS-treated corneas perforated; GLY treatment also decreased plate count (neutral pH more effective) and reduced MPO and several cytokines. Similarly, for MDR9, GLY at either pH was protective and also enhanced the effects of moxifloxacin to which MDR9 is resistant.

Conclusion

Acidic or neutral pH GLY decreased goblet cell number but had no effect on nerve density. After corneal wounding, GLY at either pH (1) delayed wound closure and, (2) after infection, decreased keratitis when used alone or in combination with moxifloxacin. Neutral pH did not alter the therapeutic effect of GLY and would be preferred if used clinically.

Optimization of Bioactive Phenolics Extraction and Cosmeceutical Activity of Eco-Friendly Polypropylene-Glycol-Lactic-Acid-Based Extracts of Olive Leaf

Olive leaf is a rich source of phenolic compounds with numerous activities related to skin health and appearance. In this study, a green extraction method was developed using eco-friendly solvents: polypropylene glycol (PPG), lactic acid (LA), and water. The optimal extraction conditions were established, including solvent, extraction time, technique (magnetic stirrer vs. ultrasound-assisted extraction), and herbal material/solvent ratio. The composition of the solvent mixture was optimized using a mixture design. The content of phenolic compounds, including oleuropein and verbascoside, was determined using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and spectrophotometric methods. Using different extraction conditions, three extracts were prepared and their phytochemical compositions and antioxidant and skin-related bioactivities were investigated. The extracts were excellent inhibitors of elastase, collagenase, tyrosinase, and lipoxygenase. The best activity was shown by the extract richest in phenolics and prepared using magnetic-stirrer-assisted extraction for 20 min, with 0.8 g of herbal material extracted in 10 mL of PPG/LA/water mixture (28.6/63.6/7.8, w/w/w), closely followed by the extract prepared using the same extraction conditions but with 0.42 g of herbal material. The investigated PPG/LA/water mixtures contributed to the overall enzyme-inhibitory activity of the extracts. The prepared extracts were appropriate for direct use in cosmetic products, thus saving the time and energy consumption necessary for the evaporation of conventional solvents.

Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra, G. uralensis, and G. inflata) and Their Constituents as Active Cosmeceutical Ingredients

The interest in plant extracts and natural compounds in cosmetic formulations is growing. Natural products may significantly improve cosmetics performance since they have both cosmetic and therapeutic-like properties, known as cosmeceutical effects. Glycyrrhiza genus, belonging to the Leguminosae family, comprises more than 30 species, widely distributed worldwide. The rhizomes and roots are the most important medicinal parts currently used in pharmaceutical industries and in the production of functional foods and food supplements. In the last few years, the interest in their potential activities in cosmetic formulations has greatly increased. Glycyrrhiza spp. extracts are widely implemented in cosmetic products for their good whitening effect. The biological effects of Glycyrrhiza extracts are especially ascribable to the occurrence of specialized metabolites belonging to the flavonoid class. This review focuses on the botany and the chemistry of the main investigated Glycyrrhiza spp. (G. glabra, G. uralensis, and G. inflata) along with their cosmeceutical activities categorized as skin anti-aging, photoprotective, hair care, and anti-acne. It has been highlighted how, along with Glycyrrhiza extracts, three main flavonoids namely licochalcone A, glabridin, and dehydroglyasperin C are the most investigated compounds. It is noteworthy that other molecules from licorice show potential cosmeceutical effects. These data suggest further investigations to clarify their potential value for cosmetic industries.

Eco-friendly control of licorice aqueous extract to increase quality and resistance to postharvest decay in apple and tangerine fruits

BACKGROUND

Postharvest diseases in fruits and vegetables are one of the major problems in storing them as a fresh agri-product. This study aimed to investigate the antifungal activity of licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) aqueous extract against the Penicillium expansum and the Penicillium digitatum in apple and tangerine fruits as well as their postharvest decay during storage time.

METHODS

The minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) of the molds, and the decay inhibition percentage (%DI) with the P.expansum for apple and P.digitatum for tangerine after treatment with licorice aqueous extract were measured. Additionally, the lesion diameter, titratable acidity (TA), total soluble solids (TSS), pH, and organoleptic properties were determined.

RESULTS

The growth of molds was almost inhibited at the concentration of 62.5 mg/mL. The ability of licorice aqueous extract to significantly control and reduce the growth of P. expansum in apple by 60 and 20 % after 7 days and 21 days of storage time was proved, respectively. Furthermore, significant differences in pH and TSS (p < 0.05) were observed in apples. Also, the growth of P. digitatum in the tangerine reduced by 33.3 % after 7 days, while there was no significant difference between the control and treatment groups in pH and TSS for apples, and similarly, there was no significant difference in TA for tangerine samples.

CONCLUSIONS

Therefore, the licorice aqueous extract treatment could postpone the blue mold decay in apple fruits and green mold decay in tangerine without any significant effect on fruit quality characteristics. It can be considered as a new eco-friendly control in fruit preservation, while it did not result in any significant adverse effect on  the quality.

Optimization of Two Eco-Friendly Extractions of Black Medick (Medicago lupulina L.) Phenols and Their Antioxidant, Cosmeceutical, α-Glucosidase and α-Amylase Inhibitory Properties

Medicago lupulina is an ancient edible plant from the Fabaceae family. In this work, two eco-friendly methods for extraction of bioactive phenolics from M. lupulina were developed using mixtures of water with two non-toxic, skin- and environmentally-friendly polyol solvents: glycerol and polypropylene glycol. Ultrasound-assisted extractions were optimized using a Box–Behnken design. The independent variables were the concentration of organic solvent in water (X₁), extraction temperature (X₂) and time (X₃), while the response was phenolic content. The optimum conditions for extraction of polyphenols were (X₁, X₂, X₃): (45%, 70 °C, 60 min) and (10%, 80 °C, 60 min) for glycerol and polypropylene glycol extraction, respectively. The extracts prepared at optimum conditions were rich in phenolic compounds, mainly derivatives of apigenin, kaempferol, luteolin, quercetin, caffeic and ferulic acid, as well as coumestrol. Their cosmeceutical and antidiabetic activity was tested. Both extracts demonstrated notable antioxidant, anti-lipoxygenase and anti-α-amylase activity. In addition to those activities, the glycerol extract efficiently inhibited protein coagulation, elastase and α-glucosidase activity. Glycerol present in the extract displayed enzyme-inhibiting activity in several assays and supported the action of the bioactive constituents. Thus, the optimized glycerol extract is a desirable candidate for direct incorporation in antidiabetic food supplements and cosmeceutical products.

Glycerol and Glycerol-Based Deep Eutectic Mixtures as Emerging Green Solvents for Polyphenol Extraction: The Evidence So Far

The acknowledgement that uncontrolled and excessive use of fossil resources has become a prime concern with regard to environmental deterioration, has shifted the orientation of economies towards the implementation of sustainable routes of production, through the valorization of biomass. Green chemistry plays a key role in this regard, defining the framework of processes that encompass eco-friendly methodologies, which aim at the development of highly efficient production of numerous bioderived chemicals, with minimum environmental aggravation. One of the major concerns of the chemical industry in establishing sustainable routes of production, is the replacement of fossil-derived, volatile solvents, with bio-based benign ones, with low vapor pressure, recyclability, low or no toxicity, availability and low cost. Glycerol is a natural substance, inexpensive and non-toxic, and it is a principal by-product of biodiesel industry resulting from the transesterification process. The ever-growing market of biodiesel has created a significant surplus of glycerol production, resulting in a concomitant drop of its price. Thus, glycerol has become a highly available, low-cost liquid, and over the past decade its use as an alternative solvent has been gaining unprecedented attention. This review summarizes the utilization of glycerol and glycerol-based deep eutectic mixtures as emerging solvents with outstanding prospect in bioactive polyphenol extraction.

Comparison of Maceration and Ultrasonication for Green Extraction of Phenolic Acids from Echinacea purpurea Aerial Parts

Echinacea purpurea is used in herbal medicinal products for the prevention and treatment of the common cold, as well as for skin disorders and minor wounds. In this study, the efficiency of traditional maceration using water and ethanol was compared with the maceration using mixtures of water and glycerol, a non-toxic, biodegradable solvent from renewable sources. It was found that the glycerol-water mixtures were as effective as ethanol/water mixtures for the extraction of caffeic acid derivatives. All the prepared extracts demonstrated notable antiradical properties. Furthermore, an efficient ultrasound-assisted extraction using glycerol-water mixtures was developed using six independent variables. Their levels needed for the maximum extraction of caffeic acid derivatives were as follows: glycerol 90% (m/m), temperature 70 °C, ultrasound power 72 W, time 40 min, and ascorbic acid 0 mg/mL. Under the optimized conditions, ultrasound-assisted extraction was superior to maceration. It achieved significantly higher yields of phenolic acids in shorter extraction time. The presence of zinc in plant material may contribute to the beneficial effects of E. purpurea preparations. Since glycerol is a non-toxic solvent with humectant properties, the prepared extracts can be directly used for the preparation of cosmetics or oral pharmaceutical formulations without the need for solvent removal.

Plant Fortification of the Diet for Anti-Ageing Effects: A Review

Ageing is an enigmatic and progressive biological process which undermines the normal functions of living organisms with time. Ageing has been conspicuously linked to dietary habits, whereby dietary restrictions and antioxidants play a substantial role in slowing the ageing process. Oxygen is an essential molecule that sustains human life on earth and is involved in the synthesis of reactive oxygen species (ROS) that pose certain health complications. The ROS are believed to be a significant factor in the progression of ageing. A robust lifestyle and healthy food, containing dietary antioxidants, are essential for improving the overall livelihood and decelerating the ageing process. Dietary antioxidants such as adaptogens, anthocyanins, vitamins A/D/C/E and isoflavones slow the ageing phenomena by reducing ROS production in the cells, thereby improving the life span of living organisms. This review highlights the manifestations of ageing, theories associated with ageing and the importance of diet management in ageing. It also discusses the available functional foods as well as nutraceuticals with anti-ageing potential.

Hydroglycerolic Solvent and Ultrasonication Pretreatment: A Green Blend for High-Efficiency Extraction of Salvia fruticosa Polyphenols

Salvia fruticosa Miller, also known as Cretan or Greek sage, is a medicinal plant with significant biological properties, which are largely ascribed to its polyphenolic composition, but there is to-date a scarcity of green and sustainable processes for efficient polyphenol extraction from this plant. The objective of this study was the implementation of an extraction process that would combine a green solvent based on glycerol, a biodiesel industry by-product, and ultrasonication pretreatment. Ultrasonication for 40 min followed by stirred-tank extraction was shown to provide significantly higher total polyphenol yield than mere stirred-tank extraction, while kinetics indicated 50 °C as the most favorable temperature, with the yield being 92 mg gallic acid equivalents (GAE) per g dry mass. Comparison of this method with a previously developed one that used methyl β-cyclodextrin revealed that the extracts obtained had similar antioxidant activity, and yield in major polyphenols including luteolin 7-O-glucuronide and rosmarinic acid was virtually equal. The current process is proposed as a sustainable and effective methodology for the generation of polyphenol-enriched extracts from S. fruticosa, which could be used as effective food antioxidants/antimicrobials and/or cosmetic constituents.