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Marques C, Hadjab F, Porcello A, Lourenço K, Scaletta C, Abdel-Sayed P, Hirt-Burri N, Applegate LA, Laurent A. Mechanistic Insights into the Multiple Functions of Niacinamide: Therapeutic Implications and Cosmeceutical Applications in Functional Skincare Products. Antioxidants (Basel) 2024; 13:425. [PMID: 38671873 PMCID: PMC11047333 DOI: 10.3390/antiox13040425] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/06/2024] [Revised: 03/26/2024] [Accepted: 03/27/2024] [Indexed: 04/28/2024] Open
Abstract
Niacinamide (or nicotinamide) is a small-molecule hydrosoluble vitamin with essential metabolic functions in mammalian cells. Niacinamide has become a key functional ingredient in diverse skincare products and cosmetics. This vitamin plays a pivotal role in NAD+ synthesis, notably contributing to redox reactions and energy production in cutaneous cells. Via diversified biochemical mechanisms, niacinamide is also known to influence human DNA repair and cellular stress responses. Based on decades of safe use in cosmetics, niacinamide recently gained widespread popularity as an active ingredient which aligns with the "Kligman standards" in skincare. From a therapeutic standpoint, the intrinsic properties of niacinamide may be applied to managing acne vulgaris, melasma, and psoriasis. From a cosmeceutical standpoint, niacinamide has been widely leveraged as a multipurpose antiaging ingredient. Therein, it was shown to significantly reduce cutaneous oxidative stress, inflammation, and pigmentation. Overall, through multimodal mechanisms, niacinamide may be considered to partially prevent and/or reverse several biophysical changes associated with skin aging. The present narrative review provides multifactorial insights into the mechanisms of niacinamide's therapeutic and cosmeceutical functions. The ingredient's evolving role in skincare was critically appraised, with a strong focus on the biochemical mechanisms at play. Finally, novel indications and potential applications of niacinamide in dermal fillers and alternative injectable formulations were prospectively explored.
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Affiliation(s)
- Cíntia Marques
- Development Department, LOUNA REGENERATIVE SA, CH-1207 Geneva, Switzerland; (C.M.); (A.P.); (K.L.)
| | - Farid Hadjab
- Development Department, Albomed GmbH, D-90592 Schwarzenbruck, Germany;
| | - Alexandre Porcello
- Development Department, LOUNA REGENERATIVE SA, CH-1207 Geneva, Switzerland; (C.M.); (A.P.); (K.L.)
| | - Kelly Lourenço
- Development Department, LOUNA REGENERATIVE SA, CH-1207 Geneva, Switzerland; (C.M.); (A.P.); (K.L.)
| | - Corinne Scaletta
- Regenerative Therapy Unit, Lausanne University Hospital, University of Lausanne, CH-1066 Epalinges, Switzerland; (C.S.); (P.A.-S.); (N.H.-B.)
| | - Philippe Abdel-Sayed
- Regenerative Therapy Unit, Lausanne University Hospital, University of Lausanne, CH-1066 Epalinges, Switzerland; (C.S.); (P.A.-S.); (N.H.-B.)
- STI School of Engineering, Federal Polytechnic School of Lausanne, CH-1015 Lausanne, Switzerland
| | - Nathalie Hirt-Burri
- Regenerative Therapy Unit, Lausanne University Hospital, University of Lausanne, CH-1066 Epalinges, Switzerland; (C.S.); (P.A.-S.); (N.H.-B.)
| | - Lee Ann Applegate
- Regenerative Therapy Unit, Lausanne University Hospital, University of Lausanne, CH-1066 Epalinges, Switzerland; (C.S.); (P.A.-S.); (N.H.-B.)
- Center for Applied Biotechnology and Molecular Medicine, University of Zurich, CH-8057 Zurich, Switzerland
- Oxford OSCAR Suzhou Center, Oxford University, Suzhou 215123, China
| | - Alexis Laurent
- Regenerative Therapy Unit, Lausanne University Hospital, University of Lausanne, CH-1066 Epalinges, Switzerland; (C.S.); (P.A.-S.); (N.H.-B.)
- Manufacturing Department, LAM Biotechnologies SA, CH-1066 Epalinges, Switzerland
- Manufacturing Department, TEC-PHARMA SA, CH-1038 Bercher, Switzerland
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Muller B, Flament F, Jouni H, Sextius P, Tachon R, Wang Y, Wang H, Qiu H, Qiu J, Amar D, Delaunay C, Jablonski NG, Passeron T. A Bayesian network meta-analysis of 14 molecules inhibiting UV daylight-induced pigmentation. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol 2024. [PMID: 38433524 DOI: 10.1111/jdv.19910] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 09/11/2023] [Accepted: 01/26/2024] [Indexed: 03/05/2024]
Abstract
INTRODUCTION Hyperpigmentation disorders are very frequent, affect the quality of life and may become a psychological burden for afflicted patients. Many anti-pigmenting or depigmenting agents are available with various efficacy and almost no comparative data. 2-mercaptonicotinoyl glycine (2-MNG) was recently proposed as a viable candidate showing safe and effective results on hyperpigmentation control in vitro and in vivo. OBJECTIVES A Bayesian network meta-analysis (BNMA) was conducted to map and rank the anti-pigmenting and depigmenting efficacy of 2-MNG 0.5% on UV daylight (UVDL)-induced pigmentation together with 13 other reference molecules. A comparison in the kinetics of 2-MNG 0.5% was also performed. METHODOLOGY Fourteen studies were conducted, for each, on 15-30 women of skin phototype III in Shanghai, China and Paris, France. The products were applied on mini zone, in randomized and blinded protocol, on the back, 5 days a week during 6 weeks, at a dose of 4 mg/cm2 . During the second week, volunteers were exposed under to varying minimum erythemal dose of UVDL during 4 consecutive days-adapted to obtain a similar induction of skin pigmentation regardless of the population. Assessments were performed instrumentally using Chromameter®. Ascorbic acid 7% was used as a positive control for all experiments. A Bayesian network meta-analysis was then established to map and follow the kinetics of 2-MNG 0.5% performance with 13 reference molecules (glutathione 2%, kojic acid 1%, hydroquinone 4%, ascorbyl glucoside 2%, niacinamide 4%, etc.). RESULTS 2-MNG 0.5% dominated the ranking at all time points with a significant high probability of strong efficacy against UVDL-induced pigmentation. Ascorbic acid 7% ranks second after 4 days of irradiations (D12 ) whereas hydroquinone 4% ranks second 1 month after irradiations (D40 ). In the kinetics, 2-MNG at 0.5% was effective as from the end of irradiations (D12 ) to the study endpoint (D40 ). This suggested an immediate and persistent efficacy across all timepoints evaluated. CONCLUSION The BNMA revealed a rapid and lasting efficacy of 2-MNG 0.5% on the anti-pigmenting and depigmenting phases of the clinical protocol. 2-MNG 0.5% ranked first, with immediate and lasting effect compared to 13 other references. This study is the first allowing comparison between reference anti-pigmenting and depigmenting agents and will help clinicians for proposing the most effective approach for their patients.
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Affiliation(s)
| | | | - Hussein Jouni
- L'Oréal Research and Innovation, Aulnay-sous-Bois, France
| | - Peggy Sextius
- L'Oréal Research and Innovation, Aulnay-sous-Bois, France
| | | | - Yang Wang
- L'Oréal Research and Innovation, Shanghai, China
| | - Hequn Wang
- L'Oréal Research and Innovation, Shanghai, China
| | - Huixia Qiu
- L'Oréal Research and Innovation, Shanghai, China
| | - Janney Qiu
- L'Oréal Research and Innovation, Shanghai, China
| | - David Amar
- L'Oréal Research and Innovation, Chevilly-Laure, France
| | | | - Nina G Jablonski
- Department of Anthropology, The Pennsylvania State University, University Park, Texas, USA
| | - Thierry Passeron
- Department of Dermatology, Université Côte d'Azur, CHU Nice, Nice, France
- Université Côte d'Azur, INSERM, Nice, France
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Mota S, Rosa GP, Barreto MC, Garrido J, Sousa E, Cruz MT, Almeida IF, Quintas C. Comparative Studies on the Photoreactivity, Efficacy, and Safety of Depigmenting Agents. Pharmaceuticals (Basel) 2023; 17:55. [PMID: 38256889 PMCID: PMC10820089 DOI: 10.3390/ph17010055] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 10/30/2023] [Revised: 12/11/2023] [Accepted: 12/22/2023] [Indexed: 01/24/2024] Open
Abstract
Depigmenting products are increasingly used to counteract skin hyperpigmentation and related psychosocial issues. This study aimed to compare different depigmenting agents-4-butylresorcinol; bakuchiol; tranexamic acid; ascorbyl glucoside; α-arbutin; and ascorbic acid-for photoreactivity; tyrosinase inhibition; and safety. Photoreactivity was assessed using the Reactive Oxygen Species assay. In vitro tyrosinase inhibition was compared, and cell viability was assessed in B-16V melanocytes to evaluate safety. Results showed 4-butylresorcinol, ascorbyl glucoside, and α-arbutin are non-photoreactive, while for ascorbic acid and bakuchiol it was not possible to reach conclusive results due to the lack of specificity of the ROS assay. 4-Butylresorcinol, acting as a competitive inhibitor, displayed potent tyrosinase inhibition, followed by ascorbic acid and bakuchiol. Both 4-butylresorcinol and bakuchiol reduced cell viability in a concentration-dependent manner. The insights obtained in this work support the development of depigmenting products by providing useful scientific guidance on the photostability, tyrosinase inhibitory efficacy, and skin safety of depigmenting agents.
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Affiliation(s)
- Sandra Mota
- UCIBIO—Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, MedTech, Faculty of Pharmacy, Department of Drug Sciences, Laboratory of Pharmaceutical Technology, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal;
- Associate Laboratory i4HB—Institute for Health and Bioeconomy, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal;
| | - Gonçalo P. Rosa
- LAQV-REQUIMTE, Department of Chemistry, University of Aveiro, 3810-192 Aveiro, Portugal;
- cE3c—Centre for Ecology, Evolution and Environmental Changes/Azorean Biodiversity Group, CHANGE and Faculty of Sciences and Technology, University of Azores, 9500-321 Ponta Delgada, Portugal
| | - Maria Carmo Barreto
- cE3c—Centre for Ecology, Evolution and Environmental Changes/Azorean Biodiversity Group, CHANGE and Faculty of Sciences and Technology, University of Azores, 9500-321 Ponta Delgada, Portugal
| | - Jorge Garrido
- CIQUP-IMS, ISEP, Polytechnic of Porto, 4249-015 Porto, Portugal;
| | - Emília Sousa
- Laboratory of Organic and Pharmaceutical Chemistry, Department of Chemical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal;
- CIIMAR—Interdisciplinary Center of Marine and Environmental Research, University of Porto, Avenida General Norton de Matos, S/N, 4450-208 Matosinhos, Portugal
| | - Maria T. Cruz
- Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Coimbra, 3000-548 Coimbra, Portugal;
- CNC-UC—Center for Neuroscience and Cell Biology, University of Coimbra, 3000-548 Coimbra, Portugal
- CIBB—Centre for Innovative Biomedicine and Biotechnology, University of Coimbra, 3000-548 Coimbra, Portugal
| | - Isabel F. Almeida
- UCIBIO—Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, MedTech, Faculty of Pharmacy, Department of Drug Sciences, Laboratory of Pharmaceutical Technology, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal;
- Associate Laboratory i4HB—Institute for Health and Bioeconomy, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal;
| | - Clara Quintas
- Associate Laboratory i4HB—Institute for Health and Bioeconomy, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal;
- UCIBIO—Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, Faculty of Pharmacy, Department of Drug Sciences, Laboratory of Pharmacology, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal
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Mpofana N, Paulse M, Gqaleni N, Makgobole MU, Pillay P, Hussein A, Dlova NC. The Effect of Melasma on the Quality of Life in People with Darker Skin Types Living in Durban, South Africa. INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF ENVIRONMENTAL RESEARCH AND PUBLIC HEALTH 2023; 20:7068. [PMID: 37998299 PMCID: PMC10671852 DOI: 10.3390/ijerph20227068] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 10/12/2023] [Revised: 11/13/2023] [Accepted: 11/14/2023] [Indexed: 11/25/2023]
Abstract
Melasma is a common skin disorder of acquired hyperpigmentation that appears commonly on the face. Although asymptomatic, melasma causes psychosocial and emotional distress. This study aimed to assess melasma's severity on people with darker skin types, evaluate the effects of melasma on the quality of life (QoL), and establish QoL predictors in affected individuals. This was a cross-sectional analytic study that enrolled 150 patients from three private dermatology clinics in Durban, South Africa who were diagnosed with melasma. The severity of melasma alongside QoL were measured using a melasma area and severity index (MASI) score and melasma quality of life scale (MELASQoL), respectively. The associations among factors and QoL were explored using multivariable methods and stepwise regression analysis. p-values less than 0.05 were considered significant. Enrolled patients were predominantly females (95%), of which 76% were of black African ethnicity, 9% were of Indian ethnicity, and 15% had mixed ancestry, with an average age of 47.30 years. Family history revealed that 61% had no prior melasma cases, while 39% had affected relatives, most commonly mothers (41%). The cheeks were the most common site for melasma. MASI score of Masi (β = 0.209, t = 2.628, p < 0.001), the involvement of cheeks (β = -0.268, t = -3.405, p < 0.001), level of education (β = -0.159, t = -2.029, p = 0.044), and being menopausal (β = -0.161, t = -2.027, p = 0.045) were found to be predictors of QoL. A regression model was created to forecast MELASQoL using these four predictors. This equation's significance lies in its ability to enable the remote assessment of MELASQoL based on these four variables. It offers a valuable tool for researchers and medical professionals to quantitatively and objectively evaluate the impact of melasma on an individual's quality of life.
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Affiliation(s)
- Nomakhosi Mpofana
- Dermatology Department, Nelson R. Mandela School of Medicine, University of KwaZulu-Natal, Durban 4000, South Africa;
- Department of Somatology, Durban University of Technology, Durban 4000, South Africa;
| | - Michael Paulse
- Faculty of Health and Wellness Sciences, Cape Peninsula University of Technology, Cape Town 8000, South Africa;
| | - Nceba Gqaleni
- Discipline of Traditional Medicine, University of KwaZulu-Natal, Durban 4000, South Africa;
- Faculty of Health Sciences, Durban University of Technology, Durban 4000, South Africa
| | | | - Pavitra Pillay
- Department of Biomedical and Clinical Technology, Durban University of Technology, Durban 4000, South Africa;
| | - Ahmed Hussein
- Department of Chemistry, Cape Peninsula University of Technology, Cape Town 8000, South Africa;
| | - Ncoza Cordelia Dlova
- Dermatology Department, Nelson R. Mandela School of Medicine, University of KwaZulu-Natal, Durban 4000, South Africa;
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Zolghadri S, Beygi M, Mohammad TF, Alijanianzadeh M, Pillaiyar T, Garcia-Molina P, Garcia-Canovas F, Luis Munoz-Munoz J, Akbar Saboury A. Targeting Tyrosinase in Hyperpigmentation: Current Status, Limitations and Future Promises. Biochem Pharmacol 2023; 212:115574. [PMID: 37127249 DOI: 10.1016/j.bcp.2023.115574] [Citation(s) in RCA: 3] [Impact Index Per Article: 3.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/19/2023] [Revised: 04/21/2023] [Accepted: 04/24/2023] [Indexed: 05/03/2023]
Abstract
Hyperpigmentation is a common and distressing dermatologic condition. Since tyrosinase (TYR) plays an essential role in melanogenesis, its inhibition is considered a logical approach along with other therapeutic methods to prevent the accumulation of melanin in the skin. Thus, TYR inhibitors are a tempting target as the medicinal and cosmetic active agents of hyperpigmentation disorder. Among TYR inhibitors, hydroquinone is a traditional lightening agent that is commonly used in clinical practice. However, despite good efficacy, prolonged use of hydroquinone is associated with side effects. To overcome these shortcomings, new approaches in targeting TYR and treating hyperpigmentation are desperately requiredessentialneeded. In line with this purpose, several non-hydroquinone lightening agents have been developed and suggested as hydroquinone alternatives. In addition to traditional approaches, nanomedicine and nanotheranostic platforms have been recently proposed in the treatment of hyperpigmentation. In this review, we discuss the available strategies for the management of hyperpigmentation with a focus on TYR inhibition. In addition, alternative treatment options to hydroquinone are discussed. Finally, we present nano-based strategies to improve the therapeutic effect of drugs prescribed to patients with skin disorders.
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Affiliation(s)
- Samaneh Zolghadri
- Department of Biology, Jahrom Branch, Islamic Azad University, Jahrom, Iran.
| | - Mohammad Beygi
- Department of Agricultural Biotechnology, College of Agriculture, Isfahan University of Technology, Isfahan, Iran
| | | | - Mahdi Alijanianzadeh
- Department of Cell & Molecular Biology, Faculty of Biological Sciences, Kharazmi University, Tehran, Iran
| | - Thanigaimalai Pillaiyar
- Institute of Pharmacy, Pharmaceutical/Medicinal Chemistry and Tuebingen Center for Academic Drug Discovery, Eberhard Karls University Tübingen, Auf der Morgenstelle 8, 72076 Tübingen, Germany
| | - Pablo Garcia-Molina
- GENZ-Group of Research on Enzymology, Department of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology-A, Regional Campus of International Excellence "Campus Mare Nostrum", University of Murcia, Espinardo, Murcia, Spain
| | - Francisco Garcia-Canovas
- GENZ-Group of Research on Enzymology, Department of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology-A, Regional Campus of International Excellence "Campus Mare Nostrum", University of Murcia, Espinardo, Murcia, Spain
| | - Jose Luis Munoz-Munoz
- Microbial Enzymology Lab, Department of Applied Sciences, Ellison Building A, University of Northumbria, Newcastle Upon Tyne, UK
| | - Ali Akbar Saboury
- Institute of Biochemistry and Biophysics, University of Tehran, Tehran, Iran.
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Cho J, Jung H, Kang DY, Sp N, Shin W, Lee J, Park BG, Kang YA, Jang KJ, Bae SW. The Skin-Whitening and Antioxidant Effects of Protocatechuic Acid (PCA) Derivatives in Melanoma and Fibroblast Cell Lines. Curr Issues Mol Biol 2023; 45:2157-2169. [PMID: 36975508 PMCID: PMC10047566 DOI: 10.3390/cimb45030138] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 01/02/2023] [Revised: 03/02/2023] [Accepted: 03/03/2023] [Indexed: 03/08/2023] Open
Abstract
The skin is the most voluminous organ of the human body and is exposed to the outer environment. Such exposed skin suffers from the effects of various intrinsic and extrinsic aging factors. Skin aging is characterized by features such as wrinkling, loss of elasticity, and skin pigmentation. Skin pigmentation occurs in skin aging and is caused by hyper-melanogenesis and oxidative stress. Protocatechuic acid (PCA) is a natural secondary metabolite from a plant-based source widely used as a cosmetic ingredient. We chemically designed and synthesized PCA derivatives conjugated with alkyl esters to develop effective chemicals that have skin-whitening and antioxidant effects and enhance the pharmacological activities of PCA. We identified that melanin biosynthesis in B16 melanoma cells treated with alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) is decreased by PCA derivatives. We also found that PCA derivatives effectively have antioxidant effects in HS68 fibroblast cells. In this study, we suggest that our PCA derivatives are potent ingredients for developing cosmetics with skin-whitening and antioxidant effects.
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Affiliation(s)
- Jaehoon Cho
- Green and Sustainable Materials R&D Department, Korea Institute of Industrial Technology (KITECH), Cheonan 31056, Republic of Korea
| | - Hyeonbi Jung
- Department of Chemistry and Cosmetics, Jeju National University, Jeju 63243, Republic of Korea
| | - Dong Young Kang
- Department of Pathology, School of Medicine, Institute of Biomedical Science and Technology, Konkuk University, Chungju 27478, Republic of Korea
| | - Nipin Sp
- Department of Surgery, Division of Surgical Oncology, The Ohio State University Comprehensive Cancer Center, Columbus, OH 43210, USA
| | - Wooshik Shin
- Green and Sustainable Materials R&D Department, Korea Institute of Industrial Technology (KITECH), Cheonan 31056, Republic of Korea
| | - Junhak Lee
- R&D Center, ACTIVON Co., Ltd., Cheongju 28104, Republic of Korea
| | - Byung Gyu Park
- R&D Center, ACTIVON Co., Ltd., Cheongju 28104, Republic of Korea
| | - Yoon A Kang
- Department of Chemistry and Cosmetics, Jeju National University, Jeju 63243, Republic of Korea
| | - Kyoung-Jin Jang
- Department of Pathology, School of Medicine, Institute of Biomedical Science and Technology, Konkuk University, Chungju 27478, Republic of Korea
- Correspondence: (K.-J.J.); (S.W.B.)
| | - Se Won Bae
- Department of Chemistry and Cosmetics, Jeju National University, Jeju 63243, Republic of Korea
- Correspondence: (K.-J.J.); (S.W.B.)
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Usage Patterns and Self-Esteem of Female Consumers of Antiaging Cosmetic Products. COSMETICS 2022. [DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics9030049] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 12/10/2022] Open
Abstract
Aging is an irreversible process of the human body, resulting from a progressive decrease in the biological functions of the organs, including the skin. This study analyzed the relationship between usage patterns of different types of anti-aging cosmetic products, sociodemographic variables, appearance schemes, psychological morbidity, perfectionism, and aging perception of aging with self-esteem. This cross-sectional study included a sample of 260 women, aged between 25 and 64 years, who are users of anti-aging cosmetics and/or aesthetic treatments. Participants were assessed on psychological morbidity (Hospital Anxiety and Depression Scale), appearance schemes (Appearance Schemas Inventory—Revised), perfectionism (Frost Multidimensional Perfectionism Scale), aging perceptions (Brief Aging Perceptions Questionnaire), and self-esteem (Rosenberg Self-Esteem Scale). The use of facial-firming cosmetics positively correlated with self-esteem. The results of regression analysis revealed that psychological morbidity and perfectionism contribute negatively to self-esteem, while marital status, professional status, and aging perceptions (positive consequences) contribute positively. According to the results, intervention programs to promote women’s self-esteem should focus on the reduction in psychological morbidity and the promotion of adaptive patterns of perfectionism and address aging perceptions. Longitudinal studies might help explain the complex relationship between the use of anti-aging cosmetic products and psychological variables, particularly self-esteem in women.
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