Meristem Plant Cells as a Sustainable Source of Redox Actives for Skin Rejuvenation

Low-cost alternative for the bioproduction of bioactive phenolic compounds of callus cultures from Cereus hildmannianus (K.) Schum

The aim of this study was to establish a sustainable alternative callus culture of Cereus hildmannianus for the production and bioactive determination of phenolic compounds from this species. The conventional callus was cultivated using agar and Murashige and Skoog (MS) medium, while for the alternative culture the agar was replaced with a cotton support covered with filter paper and MS medium (incubated at 32°C with photoperiod of 16h), and the morphological characteristics and growth index were assessed (8 weeks). Extracts were obtained by maceration followed by partition, characterized by nuclear magnetic resonance - NMR and ultra-high performance liquid chromatography - UHPLC, quantified (phenolic compounds) by UV-Vis methods, and their antioxidant, antitumor activities, as well as cytotoxicity, were evaluated. The establishment of an alternative callus culture was carried out successfully. Characteristic signals of phenolic compounds were determined by NMR, and 46 compounds with fragment ions were identified using UHPLC analysis. The highest concentrations of phenolic compounds, and greatest antioxidant and antitumor activities, were obtained with the dichloromethane fractions of both callus tissue cultures, which were not cytotoxic. The callus culture from C. hildmannianus has shown promise as a source for the sustainable production of phenolic compounds with antioxidant and antiproliferative activities and thus, has potential use as a natural antitumor product.

Nano-Structured Lignin as Green Antioxidant and UV Shielding Ingredient for Sunscreen Applications

Green, biocompatible, and biodegradable antioxidants represent a milestone in cosmetic and cosmeceutical applications. Lignin is the most abundant polyphenol in nature, recovered as a low-cost waste from the pulp and paper industry and biorefinery. This polymer is characterized by beneficial physical and chemical properties which are improved at the nanoscale level due to the emergence of antioxidant and UV shielding activities. Here we review the use of lignin nanoparticles in cosmetic and cosmeceutical applications, focusing on sunscreen and antiaging formulations. Advances in the technology for the preparation of lignin nanoparticles are described highlighting structure activity relationships.

Plant In Vitro Systems as a Sustainable Source of Active Ingredients for Cosmeceutical Application

Cosmeceuticals are hybrids between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals which are being designed for a dual purpose: (1) To provide desired esthetical effects and (2) simultaneously treat dermatological conditions. The increased demand for natural remedies and the trends to use natural and safe ingredients resulted in intensive cultivation of medicinal plants. However, in many cases the whole process of plant cultivation, complex extraction procedure, and purification of the targeted molecules are not economically feasible. Therefore, the desired production of natural cosmetic products in sustainable and controllable fashion in the last years led to the intensive utilization of plant cell culture technology. The present review aims to highlight examples of biosynthesis of active ingredients derived through plant in vitro systems with potential cosmeceutical application. The exploitation of different type of extracts used in a possible cosmeceutical formulation, as well as, their activity tested in in vitro/in vivo models is thoroughly discussed. Furthermore, opportunities to manipulate the biosynthetic pathway, hence engineering the biosynthesis of some secondary metabolites, such as anthocyanins, have been highlighted.

Anti-aging Effects of Select Botanicals: Scientific Evidence and Current Trends

As skin ages, there is a decline in physiologic function. These changes are induced by both intrinsic (chronologic) and extrinsic (predominately UV-induced) factors. Botanicals offer potential benefits to combat some of the signs of aging. Here, we review select botanicals and the scientific evidence behind their anti-aging claims. Botanicals may offer anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, moisturizing, UV-protective, and other effects. A multitude of botanicals are listed as ingredients in popular cosmetics and cosmeceuticals, but only a select few are discussed here. These were chosen based on the availability of scientific data, personal interest of the authors, and perceived “popularity” of current cosmetic and cosmeceutical products. The botanicals reviewed here include argan oil, coconut oil, crocin, feverfew, green tea, marigold, pomegranate, and soy.

French and Mediterranean-style diets: Contradictions, misconceptions and scientific facts-A review

The determination of appropriate dietary strategies for the prevention of chronic degenerative diseases, cancer, diabetes, and cardiovascular diseases remains a challenging and highly relevant issue worldwide. Epidemiological dietary interventions have been studied for decades with contrasting impacts on human health. Moreover, research scientists and physicians have long debated diets encouraging alcohol intake, such as the Mediterranean and French-style diets, with regard to their impact on human health. Understanding the effects of these diets may help to improve in the treatment and prevention of diseases. However, further studies are warranted to determine which individual food components, or combinations thereof, have a beneficial impact on different diseases, since a large number of different compounds may occur in a single food, and their fate in vivo is difficult to measure. Most explanations for the positive effects of Mediterranean-style diet, and of the French paradox, have focused largely on the beneficial properties of antioxidants, among other compounds/metabolites, in foods and red wine. Wine is a traditional alcoholic beverage that has been associated with both healthy and harmful effects. Not withstanding some doubts, there is reasonable unanimity among researchers as to the beneficial effects of moderate wine consumption on cardiovascular disease, diabetes, osteoporosis, and longevity, which have been ascribed to polyphenolic compounds present in wine. Despite this, conflicting findings regarding the impact of alcohol consumption on human health, and contradictory findings concerning the effects of non-alcoholic wine components such as resveratrol, have led to confusion among consumers. In addition to these contradictions and misconceptions, there is a paucity of human research studies confirming known positive effects of polyphenols in vivo. Furthermore, studies balancing both known and unknown prognostic factors have mostly been conducted in vitro or using animal models. Moreover, current studies have shifted focus from red wine to dairy products, such as cheese, to explain the French paradox. The aim of this review is to highlight the contradictions, misconceptions, and scientific facts about wines and diets, giving special focus to the Mediterranean and French diets in disease prevention and human health improvement. To answer the multiplicity of questions regarding the effects of diet and specific diet components on health, and to relieve consumer uncertainty and promote health, comprehensive cross-demographic studies using the latest technologies, which include foodomics and integrated omics approaches, are warranted.

In vitro plant tissue culture: means for production of biological active compounds

MAIN CONCLUSION

Plant tissue culture as an important tool for the continuous production of active compounds including secondary metabolites and engineered molecules. Novel methods (gene editing, abiotic stress) can improve the technique. Humans have a long history of reliance on plants for a supply of food, shelter and, most importantly, medicine. Current-day pharmaceuticals are typically based on plant-derived metabolites, with new products being discovered constantly. Nevertheless, the consistent and uniform supply of plant pharmaceuticals has often been compromised. One alternative for the production of important plant active compounds is in vitro plant tissue culture, as it assures independence from geographical conditions by eliminating the need to rely on wild plants. Plant transformation also allows the further use of plants for the production of engineered compounds, such as vaccines and multiple pharmaceuticals. This review summarizes the important bioactive compounds currently produced by plant tissue culture and the fundamental methods and plants employed for their production.

Natural Substances for Prevention of Skin Photoaging: Screening Systems in the Development of Sunscreen and Rejuvenation Cosmetics

Solar broadband UV irradiation is commonly regarded as a major causative reason for cutaneous photoaging. The pro-aging molecular pathways and cellular targets affected by UVA+UVB light in human skin have been extensively investigated. Notwithstanding growing knowledge in mechanisms of photoaging, research and development of clinically efficient, nontoxic, and sustainable topical preparations providing full physical, chemical, and biological photoprotection still remain a great challenge for pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. In this study, we are proposing a panel of the in vitro methods for preselection of natural photoprotective substances with high photostability and low phototoxicity able of absorbing a broadband UVA+UVB irradiation (physical sunscreen), reducing UV-related overproduction of free radicals and loss of endogenous antioxidants (chemical protection), and attenuating UV-induced cytotoxicity and immune and metabolic responses (biological protection) in primary human epidermal keratinocytes and immortalized human keratinocyte cultures. Our data showed that secondary metabolites biosynthesized in plant cells in response to UV irradiation, such as phenylpropanoids and their glycosylated metabolites, aglycons and glycosylated flavonoids, and leontopodic acids, hold the best promise for complete natural topical prevention of photoaging and rejuvenation of photoaged skin. Meristem plant cell cultures elicited by solar simulating UV could be the most environmentally sustainable biotechnological source of polyphenols with combined photoprotective and antiaging properties.