Safety Evaluation of Cosmetic Ingredients Regarding Their Skin Sensitization Potential

Safety Testing of Cosmetic Products: Overview of Established Methods and New Approach Methodologies (NAMs)

Cosmetic products need to have a proven efficacy combined with a comprehensive toxicological assessment. Before the current Cosmetic regulation N°1223/2009, the 7th Amendment to the European Cosmetics Directive has banned animal testing for cosmetic products and for cosmetic ingredients in 2004 and 2009, respectively. An increasing number of alternatives to animal testing has been developed and validated for safety and efficacy testing of cosmetic products and cosmetic ingredients. For example, 2D cell culture models derived from human skin can be used to evaluate anti-inflammatory properties, or to predict skin sensitization potential; 3D human skin equivalent models are used to evaluate skin irritation potential; and excised human skin is used as the gold standard for the evaluation of dermal absorption. The aim of this manuscript is to give an overview of the main in vitro and ex vivo alternative models used in the safety testing of cosmetic products with a focus on regulatory requirements, genotoxicity potential, skin sensitization potential, skin and eye irritation, endocrine properties, and dermal absorption. Advantages and limitations of each model in safety testing of cosmetic products are discussed and novel technologies capable of addressing these limitations are presented.

Read-across can increase confidence in the Next Generation Risk Assessment for skin sensitisation: A case study with resorcinol

Historically skin sensitisation risk assessment for cosmetic ingredients was based on animal models, however regulatory demands have led to Next Generation Risk Assessment (NGRA), using data from New Approach Methodologies (NAM) and Defined Approaches (DA). This case study was meant to investigate if the use of resorcinol at 0.2% in a face cream was safe and a maximum use concentration could be defined. The NAM data and DA predictions could not provide sufficient confidence to determine a point of departure (POD). Therefore, the application of read-across was explored to increase the level of confidence. Analogue searches in various tools and databases using "mode of action" and "chemical structural features" retrieved 535 analogues. After refinement by excluding analogues without a defined structure, similar reactivity profile and skin sensitisation data, 39 analogues remained. A final selection was made based on three approaches: expert judgment, chemical similarity or Local Lymph Node Assay data (LLNA). All read-across approaches supported a moderate potency. A POD derived from the LLNA EC3 of 3.6% was determined leading to a favourable NGRA conclusion and a maximum use concentration of 0.36%. This was supported by a traditional risk assessment based on the available animal data for resorcinol.

Evaluation of Skin Irritation and Acute and Subacute Oral Toxicity of Lavandula angustifolia Essential Oils in Rabbit and Mice

Lavandula angustifolia is used in traditional and folk medicines of Ankober District, North Central Ethiopia, for the treatment of several livestock and human disorders. This toxicity study aimed to investigate L. angustifolia essential oil oral toxicity in mice and skin irritation in rabbit. L. angustifolia essential oil was analyzed using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry methods and showed predominance of Eucalyptol (52.36%), Camphor (11.91%), gamma-terpinene (8.775%) and endoborneol (7.585%). Limit test at 2000 mg/kg dose was used for L. angustifolia essential oil acute toxicity test and revealed LD50 value was higher than 2000 mg/kg. For subacute toxicity study 2000mg/kg was given orally to each mouse for 21 days. The result demonstrated no significant changes (p > 0.05) in the body weights, and biochemical parameters, gross abnormalities, water, and food intake were observed. No macroscopic changes were seen in the histopathology analysis of kidneys and livers. For skin irritation test shaved rabbit skin was treated with 10% ointment formulation. Ointment of L. angustifolia oil did not affect mice skin. Generally, this toxicity study demonstrated that L. angustifolia essential oil is nontoxic.

Non-animal methods to predict skin sensitization (II): an assessment of defined approaches *

Skin sensitization is a toxicity endpoint of widespread concern, for which the mechanistic understanding and concurrent necessity for non-animal testing approaches have evolved to a critical juncture, with many available options for predicting sensitization without using animals. Cosmetics Europe and the National Toxicology Program Interagency Center for the Evaluation of Alternative Toxicological Methods collaborated to analyze the performance of multiple non-animal data integration approaches for the skin sensitization safety assessment of cosmetics ingredients. The Cosmetics Europe Skin Tolerance Task Force (STTF) collected and generated data on 128 substances in multiple in vitro and in chemico skin sensitization assays selected based on a systematic assessment by the STTF. These assays, together with certain in silico predictions, are key components of various non-animal testing strategies that have been submitted to the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development as case studies for skin sensitization. Curated murine local lymph node assay (LLNA) and human skin sensitization data were used to evaluate the performance of six defined approaches, comprising eight non-animal testing strategies, for both hazard and potency characterization. Defined approaches examined included consensus methods, artificial neural networks, support vector machine models, Bayesian networks, and decision trees, most of which were reproduced using open source software tools. Multiple non-animal testing strategies incorporating in vitro, in chemico, and in silico inputs demonstrated equivalent or superior performance to the LLNA when compared to both animal and human data for skin sensitization.