Cosmetic Functional Ingredients from Botanical Sources for Anti-Pollution Skincare Products

The Potential of Mangifera indica L. Peel Extract to Be Revalued in Cosmetic Applications

The constant growth of the cosmetic industry, together with the scientific evidence of the beneficial properties of phytochemicals, has generated great interest in the incorporation of bioactive extracts in cosmetic formulations. This study aims to evaluate the bioactive potential of a mango peel extract for its incorporation into cosmetic formulations. For this purpose, several assays were conducted: phytochemical characterization; total phenolic content (TPC) and antioxidant potential; free-radical scavenging capacity; and skin aging-related enzyme inhibition. In addition, the extract was incorporated into a gel formulation, and a preliminary stability study was conducted where the accelerated (temperature ramp, centrifugation, and heating/cooling cycles) and long-term (storage in light and dark for three months) stability of the mango peel formulations were evaluated. The characterization results showed the annotation of 71 compounds, gallotannins being the most representative group. In addition, the mango peel extract was shown to be effective against the •NO radical with an IC50 of 7.5 mg/L and against the hyaluronidase and xanthine oxidase enzymes with IC50 of 27 mg/L and 2 mg/L, respectively. The formulations incorporating the extract were stable during the stability study. The results demonstrate that mango peel extract can be a by-product to be revalorized as a promising cosmetic ingredient.

Promoting New Approach Methodologies (NAMs) for research on skin color changes in response to environmental stress factors: tobacco and air pollution

Aging is one of the most dynamic biological processes in the human body and is known to carry significant impacts on individuals' self-esteem. Skin pigmentation is a highly heritable trait made possible by complex, strictly controlled cellular and molecular mechanisms. Genetic, environmental and endocrine factors contribute to the modulation of melanin's amount, type and distribution in the skin layers. One of the hallmarks of extrinsic skin aging induced by environmental stress factors is the alteration of the constitutive pigmentation pattern clinically defined as senile lentigines and/or melasma or other pigmentary dyschromias. The complexity of pollutants and tobacco smoke as environmental stress factors warrants a thorough understanding of the mechanisms by which they impact skin pigmentation through repeated and long-term exposure. Pre-clinical and clinical studies demonstrated that pollutants are known to induce reactive oxygen species (ROS) or inflammatory events that lead directly or indirectly to skin hyperpigmentation. Another mechanistic direction is provided by Aryl hydrocarbon Receptors (AhR) which were shown to mediate processes leading to skin hyperpigmentation in response to pollutants by regulation of melanogenic enzymes and transcription factors involved in melanin biosynthesis pathway. In this context, we will discuss a diverse range of New Approach Methodologies (NAMs) capable to provide mechanistic insights of the cellular and molecular pathways involved in the action of environmental stress factors on skin pigmentation and to support the design of raw ingredients and formulations intended to counter their impact and of any subsequently needed clinical studies.

Protocatechuic Acid and Syringin from Saussurea neoserrata Nakai Attenuate Prostaglandin Production in Human Keratinocytes Exposed to Airborne Particulate Matter

Saussurea neoserrata Nakai offers a reliable and efficient source of antioxidants that can help alleviate adverse skin reactions triggered by air pollutants. Air pollutants, such as particulate matter (PM), have the ability to infiltrate the skin and contribute to the higher occurrence of cardiovascular, cerebrovascular, and respiratory ailments. Individuals with compromised skin barriers are particularly susceptible to the impact of PM since it can be absorbed more readily through the skin. This study investigated the impact of protocatechuic acid and syringin, obtained from the n-BuOH extract of S. neoserrata Nakai, on the release of PGE₂ and PGD₂ induced by PM₁₀. Additionally, it examined the gene expression of the synthesis of PGE₂ and PGD₂ in human keratinocytes. The findings of this research highlight the potential of utilizing safe and efficient plant-derived antioxidants in dermatological and cosmetic applications to mitigate the negative skin reactions caused by exposure to air pollution.

Antioxidant, Whitening, Antiwrinkle, and Anti-Inflammatory Effect of Ajuga spectabilis Nakai Extract

Since ancient times, plants have been a good source of natural antioxidants. Plants remove active oxygen through antioxidants and contain various active ingredients. These active ingredients of plants are used to alleviate skin aging and chronic diseases. Ajuga spectabilis Nakai (AS) is a perennial plant, is endemic to Korea, and has the characteristics of alpine plants. The aim of this study was to assure the possibility of using AS as a functional natural and cosmetic material. For this, we carried out biologically activated material characteristic evaluations about antioxidant, wrinkle reduction, and anti-inflammatory effects using AS extract. To carry out this experiment, we extracted AS extract from AS water extract (AS-W) and AS 70% ethanol extract (AS-E). AS-E showed the highest DPPH activity and tyrosinase inhibitory activity. After, the measurement of metalloprotease (MMP)-1 inhibition effect showed the AS-W and AS-E activation at the concentration of 100 µg/mL. In addition, at the same concentration, from the result of the measurement of the biosynthesis quantity of pro-collagen type-1 we knew that its excellent effect appeared in AS-E (CCD-986sk). The inhibition of NO production in AS-W and AS-E was confirmed in LPS-induced mouse macrophage RAW264.7 cells. On cell viability, it was judged that AS-E had no toxicity because it showed a high cell viability at a high concentration, and it was used for the anti-inflammatory activity. Inhibition of NO production worked only in AS-E; inflammatory cytokine TNF-α and IL-6 were suppressed in a concentration-dependent manner in AS-E. AS is believed to be used as a natural cosmetic material because it has been proven to have antioxidant, whitening, wrinkle-improving, and anti-inflammatory effects. Therefore, the results indicate that AS extract can play an important role as a functional natural material and a cosmetic material for whitening, wrinkle reduction, and anti-inflammatory effect.

Anti-Pollution Activity, Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Effects of Fermented Extract from Smilax china Leaf in Macrophages and Keratinocytes

Air pollution has considerable effects on the human skin, showing that every single pollutant has a different toxicological impact on it. The oxidative stress that exceeds the skin’s antioxidant capacity can lead to oxidative damage and premature skin aging by repeated air pollutant contact. In this study, according to the generalized protocol available to objectively substantiate the ‘anti-pollution’ claim, we evaluated several biomarkers after pollutants exposure in Raw 264.7 macro-phages and HaCaT keratinocytes to investigate the possibility of anti-pollution cosmetic material of fermented extract from Smilax china leaves (FESCL). FESCL decreased pollutants-induced luciferase activity in a dose-dependent manner, and FESCL significantly inhibited XRE-luciferase activity at a concentration of 1%. The IC50 value of FESCL showed the same DPPH scavenging activity at 0.0625% as ascorbic acid, and the maximum DPPH scavenging activity (92.44%) at 1%. The maximum permissible non-cytotoxic concentrations of FESCL for a Raw 264.7 cell was determined to be 2%, where PGE2 production of FESCL was inhibited by 78.20%. These results show the anti-pollution activity of FESCL against the pollutant-stimulated human living skin explants. In conclusion, we confirmed the anti-pollution potential of FESCL as one of the functional materials in cosmetic formulation.

Effects of Air Pollution on Cellular Senescence and Skin Aging

The human skin is exposed daily to different environmental factors such as air pollutants and ultraviolet (UV) light. Air pollution is considered a harmful environmental risk to human skin and is known to promote aging and inflammation of this tissue, leading to the onset of skin disorders and to the appearance of wrinkles and pigmentation issues. Besides this, components of air pollution can interact synergistically with ultraviolet light and increase the impact of damage to the skin. However, little is known about the modulation of air pollution on cellular senescence in skin cells and how this can contribute to skin aging. In this review, we are summarizing the current state of knowledge about air pollution components, their involvement in the processes of cellular senescence and skin aging, as well as the current therapeutic and cosmetic interventions proposed to prevent or mitigate the effects of air pollution in the skin.

Green synthesis, characterization and biological activity of Solanum trilobatum-mediated silver nanoparticles

Biologically inspired synthesis of nanoparticles was found to be more attractive in metal nanoparticle synthesis. The present study reported an in-situ biogenic synthesis of silver nanoparticles (AgNPs) using Solanum trilobatum aqueous leaf extract. On this basis, the aqueous leaf extract of S. trilobatum acted as a reducing agent and stabilizing agent to synthesize highly stable AgNPs at ambient temperature. Eventually, the synthesized and stabilized AgNPs surface plasmon resonance was near 430 nm through a UV–visible (UV–vis) spectrophotometer. Here, the stability of the silver colloids monitored through zeta potential and mean particle size was evaluated through diffraction light scattering (DLF). Further, the average particle size was found to be 27.6 nm and spherical, confirmed with transmission electron microscopy (TEM). Also, colloidal AgNPs and aqueous extract are found to be rich sources of antioxidants and exhibit higher free radical scavenging ability. Thus, efficient inhibition with COX1 and COX2 enzymes and the protective effect with human red blood cell (HRBC) membrane stability showed significant results. These features are promising, suggesting the possibility of the AgNPs to be useful to disease-modifying for treating inflammatory disorders and associated complications.

Overcoming Skin Damage from Pollution via Novel Skincare Strategies

Urban pollution is one of the main problems encountered worldwide with major impact on public health as well as the environment. Health impact of urban pollution is not limited to respiratory conditions but also encompasses major skin problems including irritation, skin ageing, and skin cancer. Toxic gases and particulate matter are the main pollutants and exhibit extensive local variability. The aforementioned pollutants are small particles that attach to the skin or penetrate into it, enhancing free radicals' production inside the inner skin layers. This urges the need to propose cosmetic products that help prevent and/or minimise pollutants' effects on the skin whether irritation, ageing and cancer. Furthermore, intrinsic and extrinsic factors contributed to skin irritation and ageing. Intrinsic factors are within skin factors and include genetic and physiological characteristics of individuals. Moreover, extrinsic factors comprise environmental factors such as humidity, temperature, and smoke. Subsequently active ingredients with antipollutant properties addressed the intrinsic and extrinsic factors by four mechanisms being: free radical neutralisation, film-forming ability, skin barrier enhancement and fortification. Such ingredients include vitamin A derivatives, vitamin C derivatives, carbohydrates, and plant-based products. Yet, very limited studies have evaluated the effectiveness of the aforementioned active ingredients against irritation or ageing and this should be considered in future work.

Skincare application of medicinal plant polysaccharides - A review

Polysaccharides are macromolecules with important inherent properties and potential biotechnological applications. These complex carbohydrates exist throughout nature, especially in plants, from which they can be obtained with high yields. Different extraction and purification methods may affect the structure of polysaccharides and, due to the close relationship between structure and function, modify their biological activities. One of the possible applications of these polysaccharides is acting on the skin, which is the largest organ in the human body and can be aged by intrinsic and extrinsic processes. Skincare has been gaining worldwide attention not only to prevent diseases but also to promote rejuvenation in aesthetic treatments. In this review, we discussed the polysaccharides obtained from plants and their innovative potential for skin applications, for example as wound-healing, antimicrobial, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory, antitumoral, and anti-aging compounds.

Normal Skin Findings and Cultural Practices in Pediatric Patients with Skin of Color

The understanding of melanocytes is fundamental to the study of dermatology. These dendritic cells underly the most feared primary cutaneous malignancy, fuel escalating progress in immunotherapy strategies, and invariably underlie entire socioeconomic constructs consciously or unconsciously based on skin tone. Various ethno-genotypes combine with increasing frequency over time, increasing the diversity of skin types that may present with dermatologic diagnoses. Understanding the biology of a variety of skin tones and ethnic practices congruent with distribution of skin tone is invaluable to any physician who wishes to practice efficient and expert care, especially to pediatric patients of this category.

Essential Oils and Their Individual Components in Cosmetic Products

The current consumer demands together with the international regulations have pushed the cosmetic industry to seek new active ingredients from natural renewable sources for manufacturing more eco-sustainability and safe products, with botanical extract being an almost unlimited source of these new actives. Essential oils (EOs) emerge as very common natural ingredients in cosmetics and toiletries as a result of both their odorous character for the design and manufacturing of fragrances and perfumes, and the many beneficial properties of their individual components (EOCs), e.g., anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and antioxidant properties, and, nowadays, the cosmetic industry includes EOs or different mixtures of their individual components (EOCs), either as active ingredients or as preservatives, in various product ranges (e.g., moisturizers, lotions and cleanser in skin care cosmetics; conditioners, masks or antidandruff products in hair care products; lipsticks, or fragrances in perfumery). However, the unique chemical profile of each individual essential oil is associated with different benefits, and hence it is difficult to generalize their potential applications in cosmetics and toiletries, which often require the effort of formulators in seeking suitable mixtures of EOs or EOCs for obtaining specific benefits in the final products. This work presents an updated review of the available literature related to the most recent advances in the application of EOs and EOCs in the manufacturing of cosmetic products. Furthermore, some specific aspects related to the safety of EOs and EOCs in cosmetics will be discussed. It is expected that the information contained in this comprehensive review can be exploited by formulators in the design and optimization of cosmetic formulations containing botanical extracts.

The Feasibility of Utilizing Cultured Cordyceps militaris Residues in Cosmetics: Biological Activity Assessment of Their Crude Extracts

Solid-based residues (SBRs) left from harvesting the fruiting bodies of cultured Cordyceps mushrooms are a challenge to sustainability. Therefore, in this study, the SBRs from the cultivation of Cordyceps militaris (C. militaris) via solid-state fermentation (SSF) were employed to prepare crude extracts, with the aim of considering their possible use in cosmetics. The SBRs obtained from cultivation with solid media containing defatted rice bran mixed with barley, white rice, Riceberry rice, and wheat were named SBR-B, SBR-R, SBR-Rb, and SRB-W, respectively. They were extracted with solvents of differing polarity and then evaluated for their total phenolic content (TPC), total flavonoid content (TFC), and total carbohydrate content (TCC). In addition, antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory activities, photoprotection, and cytotoxicity were also assessed. The results revealed that the total bioactive contents and biological capacities of crude SBR extracts were significantly influenced by the types of SBR and extraction solvent (p < 0.05). The SBR-B extracted with hot water exhibited the highest antioxidant activity (66.62 ± 2.10, 212.00 ± 3.43, and 101.62 ± 4.42 mg TEAC/g extract) when assayed by DPPH, ABTS, and FRAP methods, respectively, whereas tyrosinase inhibitory activity (51.13 ± 1.11 mg KAE/g extract) with 90.43 ± 1.96% inhibition at 1 mg/mL was excellently achieved by SBR-Rb extracted by 50% (v/v) ethanol. Correlations between bioactive contents in the crude extracts and their biological activities were mostly proven at a strong level (p < 0.01). The capability of the crude extracts to absorb UV over the range of 290–330 nm disclosed their potential roles as natural UV absorbers and boosters. Cytotoxicity analysis using fibroblast cell lines tested with hot water and 50% (v/v) ethanolic SBR extracts demonstrated safe use within a concentration range of 0.001–10 mg/mL. Interestingly, their fibroblast proliferative capacity, indicating anti-aging properties, was highly promoted. The chemical composition analyzed via LC–MS/MS techniques showed that seven phenolic acids and four flavonoids were identified in the crude SBR extracts. Furthermore, the other compounds present included nucleosides, nucleobases, amino acids, sugars, phospholipids, alkaloids, organic acids, vitamins, and peptides. Therefore, it is emphasized that SBRs from C. militaris can be a prospective source for preparing crude extracts employed in cosmetics. Lastly, they could be further utilized as multifunctional ingredients in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals.

Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation

The “modern” cosmetology industry is focusing on research devoted to discovering novel neurocosmetic functional ingredients that could improve the interactions between the skin and the nervous system. Many cosmetic companies have started to formulate neurocosmetic products that exhibit their activity on the cutaneous nervous system by affecting the skin’s neuromediators through different mechanisms of action. This review aims to clarify the definition of neurocosmetics, and to describe the features of some functional ingredients and products available on the market, with a look at the regulatory aspect. The attention is devoted to neurocosmetic ingredients for combating skin stress, explaining the stress pathways, which are also correlated with skin aging. “Neuro-relaxing” anti-aging ingredients derived from plant extracts and neurocosmetic strategies to combat inflammatory responses related to skin stress are presented. Afterwards, the molecular basis of sensitive skin and the suitable neurocosmetic ingredients to improve this problem are discussed. With the aim of presenting the major application of Botox-like ingredients as the first neurocosmetics on the market, skin aging is also introduced, and its theory is presented. To confirm the efficacy of the cosmetic products on the market, the concept of cosmetic claims is discussed.

The New Challenge of Green Cosmetics: Natural Food Ingredients for Cosmetic Formulations

Nowadays, much attention is paid to issues such as ecology and sustainability. Many consumers choose “green cosmetics”, which are environmentally friendly creams, makeup, and beauty products, hoping that they are not harmful to health and reduce pollution. Moreover, the repeated mini-lock downs during the COVID-19 pandemic have fueled the awareness that body beauty is linked to well-being, both external and internal. As a result, consumer preferences for makeup have declined, while those for skincare products have increased. Nutricosmetics, which combines the benefits derived from food supplementation with the advantages of cosmetic treatments to improve the beauty of our body, respond to the new market demands. Food chemistry and cosmetic chemistry come together to promote both inside and outside well-being. A nutricosmetic optimizes the intake of nutritional microelements to meet the needs of the skin and skin appendages, improving their conditions and delaying aging, thus helping to protect the skin from the aging action of environmental factors. Numerous studies in the literature show a significant correlation between the adequate intake of these supplements, improved skin quality (both aesthetic and histological), and the acceleration of wound-healing. This review revised the main foods and bioactive molecules used in nutricosmetic formulations, their cosmetic effects, and the analytical techniques that allow the dosage of the active ingredients in the food.

Antioxidant and reduced skin-ageing effects of a polyphenol-enriched dietary supplement in response to air pollution: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study

Background

Air pollution exposure is one of the major threats to skin health and accelerates skin ageing mainly through oxidative stress mechanisms. Since it is difficult to minimize skin exposure to air pollutants, especially in urban areas, strategies to protect the skin are needed. Plant phenolic compounds have been found to be effective in attenuating cellular oxidative stress and inflammation induced by different air pollutants and a dietary approach based on these compounds could provide an efficient protection measure.

Objective

Here we investigated the efficacy of a commercially available polyphenol-enriched dietary supplement (Zeropollution^®) in reducing pollution-induced oxidative stress and in improving different skin parameters related to skin ageing of Caucasian and Asian subjects exposed to air pollution. Zeropollution is composed of four standardized herbal extracts: Olea europaea leaf, Lippia citriodora, Rosmarinus officinalis, and Sophora japonica.

Design

A double-blind randomized, parallel group study was carried out on 100 outdoor workers living in a polluted urban European area (Milan) to assess the efficacy of the dietary supplement. The total antioxidant capacity on saliva (FRAP), the oxidative damage on skin (lipoperoxides content), skin moisturization (corneometer), transepidermal water loss (tewameter), skin radiance and colour (spectrophotometer), skin elasticity (cutometer), skin sebum content (sebumeter), and the skin roughness (image analysis) were measured.

Results

Both inter-group and intra-group analysis proved that the dietary supplement improved all clinical and biochemical-monitored parameters, in both Caucasian and Asian individuals. Some of the positive effects such as decreased wrinkle depth, increased elasticity and firmness, improved skin moisturization and transepidermal water loss, and reduced dark spots pigmentation were statistically significant as early as 2 weeks of product consumption.

Conclusions

The results of the study indicate reduced oxidative stress-induced skin damage in both Asian and Caucasian women living in a polluted urban area. Therefore, the oral intake of this four-plant based supplement could be considered a complementary nutrition strategy to avoid the negative effects of environmental pollution exposure.

Plant cell culture extract of Cirsium eriophorum with skin pore refiner activity by modulating sebum production and inflammatory response

Facial pore enlargement is considered a significant esthetic and health concern in skincare cosmetics. The pores fulfill the critical function of keeping the skin surface hydrated and protected against microbial infections. The hyperseborrhea, the stress factors, and the hormonal triggers can cause pore size enlargement, causing higher susceptibility of the skin to microbe aggressions and inflammatory reactions. Thus, reducing excessive sebum production and keeping functional pores are two of the most requested activities in skincare cosmetics. A Cirsium eriophorum cell culture extract was investigated for its role in sebum regulation, stratum corneum desquamation, and anti-inflammation. The extract was able to regulate essential markers associated with sebum secretion and pore enlargements, such as the enzyme 5α-reductase, which plays a central role in sebum production, and the trypsin-like serine protease Kallikrein 5, which promotes skin exfoliation and antimicrobial response. Moreover, the extract showed a sebum-normalizing and pore refining activity in individuals having seborrheic or acne-prone skins, suggesting a role of the C. eriophorum extract in rebalancing altered skin conditions responsible for pore enlargement.

The impact of airborne pollution and exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation on skin: mechanistic and physiological insight

For several decades air pollution has been recognized to hit drastically the skin of human body. Air pollutants predominantly accountable for aging, oxidative damage, and inflammatory allergic reactions led to psoriasis, dermatitis, acne, and skin cancer owing to the impaired functions of DNA, proteins, and lipid biomolecules. Elevated air pollution and its detrimental effects along with variations in physiological parameters of the skin are verily the scaffold for anti-pollution assertions and could be recognized as markers. The present article encompasses the salient features of air pollution and UV radiations besides dreadful effects on human skin physiological parameters and some anti-pollution approaches.

Plant Complexity and Cosmetic Innovation

Plants have been used in cosmetic products since ancient times and are the subject of scientific investigation even nowadays. During the years, a deeper understanding of both the behavior of skin and of plants have become available drawing increasingly complex pictures. Plants are complex organisms that produce different metabolites responding to the environment they live in. Applied to the skin, phytomolecules interact with skin cells and affect the skin well-being and appearance. Ethnobotanical studies on the one hand and physico-chemical analyses on the other have pictured a rich inventory of plants with potential to enrich modern cosmetic products.

Glycerolipid Composition and Advanced Physicochemical Considerations of Sacha Inchi Oil toward Cosmetic Products Formulation

Sacha inchi oil is a premier raw material with highly nutritional and functional features for the foodstuff, pharmaceutical, beauty, and personal care industries. One of the most important facts about this oil is the huge chemical content of unsaturated and polyunsaturated fatty acids. However, the current available information on the characterization of the triglyceride composition and the advance physicochemical parameters relevant to emulsion development is limited. Therefore, this research focused on providing a detailed description of the lipid composition using high-resolution tandem mass spectrometry and thorough physicochemical characterization to find the value of the required hydrophilic–lipophilic balance (HLB). For this, a study in the interfacial tension was evaluated, followed by the assessment of different parameters such as creaming index, droplet size, viscosity, zeta potential, pH, and electrical conductivity for a series emulsified at thermal stress condition. The results show that fatty acids are arranged into glycerolipids and the required HLB to achieve the maximum physical stability is around 8.

Chemodiversity and Antiproliferative Activity of the Essential Oil of Schinus molle Growing in Jordan

The leaves and unripe and fully-grown fruits of Schinus molle were collected from three geographical regions of Jordan: Amman (the Mediterranean), Madaba (Irano-Turanean), and Sahab (Saharo-Arabian). The hydrodistilled volatile oils of fresh and dried leaves and fruits were analyzed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC/MS). The actual composition of the emitted volatiles was determined using Solid Phase Micro-Extraction (SPME). α- and β-Phellandrenes were the major components in all the analyzed samples. Quantitative differences were observed in the obtained essential oils (0.62-5.25 %). Additionally, cluster analysis was performed. Biologically, the antiproliferative activity of the essential oil, ethanol, and water extracts of the fruits and leaves was screened on Caco2, HCT116, MCF7, and T47D cell lines. The essential oil and ethanol extracts exhibited a dose-dependent inhibition of cell growth with IC₅₀ ranging between 21 and 65 μg/mL. The water extract did not exhibit any antiproliferative activity against the investigated cell lines.

Anti-Thermal Skin Aging Activity of Aqueous Extracts Derived from Apple Mint (Mentha suaveolens Ehrh.) in Human Dermal Fibroblasts

Thermal skin aging refers to skin aging induced by heat shock treatment. Apple mint (Mentha suaveolens Ehrh.) has been used as a folk medicine to treat various diseases. However, the activity of apple mint in thermal skin aging has yet to be investigated. In this study, we conducted various biological assays to demonstrate the anti-thermal skin aging activity of extracts of apple mint leaves (ALE). As a result, ALE showed significant antioxidant activities and inhibited the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS), matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), and interleukin-8 (IL-8) as well as suppressed mitogen-activated proteins kinases (MAPKs) such as extracellular signal regulated kinases (ERK), c-Jun N terminal kinases (JNK), and p38 MAPK triggered by heat shock treatment in human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). Consequently, ALE could be used as attractive cosmetic materials with anti-thermal skin aging activity.

Plant cell culture as emerging technology for production of active cosmetic ingredients

Plants have always been the main source for active cosmetic ingredients, having proven health beneficial effects on human, such as anti-aging, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, UV-protective, anti-cancer, anti-wrinkle, skin soothing, whitening, moisturizing, etc. Extracts from herbal, aromatic and/or medicinal plants have been widely used as effective active ingredients in cosmeceuticals or nutricosmetics, especially in products for topical application and skin-care formulations. However, over the past decade, there has been an increasing interest to plant cell culture - derived active cosmetic ingredients. These are "new generation" of high quality natural products, produced by the modern plan biotechnology methods, which usually showed stronger activities than the plant extracts obtained by the classical methods. In this review, the advantages and the current progress in plant cell culture technology for the production of active cosmetic ingredients have been summarized, and discussed in details within a presented case study for calendula stem cell product development.