Cosmeceutical Properties of Two Cultivars of Red Raspberry Grown under Different Conditions

Rubi idaei fructus as a Source of Bioactive Chemical Compounds with an Important Role in Human Health and Comparison of the Antioxidant Potential of Fruits and Juice of Three Repeat-Fruiting Rubus idaeus L. Cultivars

Rubi idaei fructus is a source of nutritionally important bioactive chemical compounds, mainly antioxidants, which strengthen the immune system and can be used in the prophylaxis and adjuvant therapies of many oxidative stress-induced diseases. There are no literature reports presenting a comprehensive comparative analysis of the antioxidant activity and nutritionally relevant metabolites contained in the fruits of repeat-fruiting raspberry cultivars, which are commonly grown in Europe. The aim of this study was to carry out a comparative analysis of the antioxidant potential (Folin-Ciocalteu, DPPH, FRAP), the content of selected primary and secondary metabolites, and the qualitative and quantitative composition of amino acids and fatty acids in the fruits of R. idaeus cv. 'Pokusa', 'Polana', and 'Polka'. The fruits of the analyzed cultivars have a low caloric value (171-219 kcal/100 g); low content of available carbohydrates (6-6.6%) and total carbohydrates (3.4-4.8%); and high levels of dietary fiber (4.7-5.8%), vitamin C (22.8-27 mg/100 g), anthocyanins (25.1-29.6 mg/100 g), and flavonoids (0.5-2.6 mg/100 g). The fruits were found to contain valuable unsaturated fatty acids (35-60%), especially MUFAs with dominant oleic, elaidic, palmitic, and erucic acids and PUFAs (α-linolenic, eicosapentaenoic, and linoleic acids). MUFAs from the ω-9 group accounted for 12-18%, whereas the content of PUFAs from the ω-3 and ω-6 groups was in the range of 15-23 and 6-21%, respectively. Exogenous amino acids, accounting for 56-62%, were dominated by leucine, phenylalanine, and lysine. The following order of the total polyphenolic content was established in the fresh fruit juice from the analyzed cultivars: 'Pokusa' < 'Polana' < 'Polka'. The different antioxidant capacity assays used in the study confirmed the high antioxidant potential of the fruits and fresh juice from the three R. idaeus cultivars. This indicates that raspberry fruits can serve as a source of nutrients and can be used as a valuable supplement in a healthy human diet and a raw material in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries.

Trends in maintaining postharvest freshness and quality of Rubus berries

Blackberries and raspberries, commonly known as Rubus berries, are commercially grown worldwide across different climates. Rubus berries contain wide array of phytochemicals, vitamins, dietary fibers, minerals, and unsaturated fatty acids. Nevertheless, these berries have short storage life which is the major constraint in their supply chains leading to higher postharvest losses. Inappropriate harvest handling, physical bruising, insect pests, and postharvest diseases lower the acceptability of fruit among consumers and other supply chain stakeholders. Additionally, the susceptibility to microbial decay, fruit softening, higher ethylene production, respiratory activity, and increased oxidation of anthocyanins, phenolics, and flavonoids considerably affects the marketability of Rubus berries at domestic and international markets. To date, several postharvest strategies such as cold storage, precooling, modified and controlled atmospheres, anti-ripening chemicals, edible coatings, biological agents, and nonchemical alternatives (heat treatment, ultrasound, irradiations, ozone) have been reported to prolong storage life, ensure food safety, and maintain the nutritional quality of Rubus berries. This review briefly encompasses multiple aspects including harvest maturity indices, regulation of fruit ripening, pre and postharvest factors affecting fruit quality, and an update on postharvest quality preservation by employing postharvest technologies to extend the storage life and maintaining the bioactive compounds in Rubus berries which are lacking in the literature. Accordingly, this review provides valuable information to the industry stakeholders and scientists offering relevant solutions, limitations in the application of certain technologies at commercial scale, highlighting research gaps, and paving the way forward for future investigations.

Comparison of Extraction Techniques for the Recovery of Sugars, Antioxidant and Antimicrobial Compounds from Agro-Industrial Wastes

Agro-industrial wastes can be used to obtain high-value compounds rich in antioxidant and antimicrobial activity. This study aimed to compare different extraction techniques for the recovery of sugars, antioxidants, and antimicrobial compounds from brewer’s spent grain (BSG), blue agave bagasse (BAB), spoiled blackberries (BB), and raspberries (RB). Aqueous (AQ), enzymatic (E), chemical-enzymatic (CE), and hydroalcoholic (EOH) extractions were assessed, and sugars, phenolics, flavonoids, and anthocyanin contents were quantified. Antioxidant activity of the extracts was evaluated using the ABTS and DPPH assays, and antimicrobial activity was tested against three yeasts and six bacteria. The CE process gave the highest total and reducing sugars content for the four residues tested, and the highest antioxidant activity, phenolics, flavonoids and anthocyanin content for BAB and BSG. Regarding BB and RB, the best treatment to obtain total and reducing sugars and antioxidant activity with ABTS was CE; the highest content of anthocyanins, phenolic, flavonoids and antioxidant activity with DPPH was obtained with EOH treatment. CE extracts of BSG and RB showed the highest inhibition against the strains studied. Results show that BSG, BB, and RB can be a source of antioxidants and antimicrobial compounds for the food and pharmaceutical industries. Depending on the desired application and component of interest, one of the extraction techniques evaluated here could be used.

Plant cell cultures of Nordic berry species: Phenolic and carotenoid profiling and biological assessments

Plant cell cultures from cloudberry (CL), lingonberry (LI), stone berry (ST), arctic bramble (AB), and strawberry (SB) were studied in terms of their polyphenol and carotenoid composition, antioxidant activity, antihemolytic activity and cytotoxicity effects on cancerous cells. High-resolution mass spectrometry data showed that LI, presented the highest antioxidant activity, contained the highest contents of flavones, phenolic acids, lignans, and total carotenoids, while CL, ST and SB presented the opposite behavior. AB and SB presented the lowest FRAP and CUPRAC values, while AB and CL presented the lowest reducing power. SB presented the lowest antioxidant activity measured by single electron transfer assays and the lowest content of lignans, phenolic acids, and flavones. CL and LI decreased the viability of in vitro mammary gland adenocarcinoma while only LI decreased the viability of in vitro lung carcinoma and showed protective effects of human erythrocytes against mechanical hemolysis.

Comparison of the Micromorphology and Ultrastructure of Pollen Grains of Selected Rubus idaeus L. Cultivars Grown in Commercial Plantation

The genus Rubus is one of the largest taxonomically diverse and complex genera in the family Rosaceae. Morphology of pollen grains (equatorial and polar axes length, shape and size, aperture position, exine sculpture, perforations) is regarded as one of its main diagnostic features for identification of species and varieties. An attempt was made to fill the gap concerning the pollen micromorphology and ultrastructure of R. idaeus L. using light, scanning, and electron transmission microscopy. This study is a comparative analysis of micromorphological and ultrastructural traits of pollen from six raspberry cultivars. The pollen grains were classified as small or medium of shape prolato-spheroids. The parallel striae in the equatorial view in the exine sculpture were sometimes branched dichotomously in ‘Glen Ample’, ‘Polka’, and ‘Polana’, arcuate in ‘Laszka’ and ‘Pokusa’, or irregularly overlapping in ‘Radziejowa’. The width of exine striae of biennial fruiting cultivars was much larger than in repeated fruiting cultivars. In terms of the increasing number of perforations per unit area of the exine surface, the cultivars were ranked as follows: ‘Pokusa’ < ‘Glen Ample’ < ‘Laszka’ < ‘Polka’ < ‘Polana’ < ‘Radziejowa’. The thickest tectum, the highest and thickest columellae with the largest distances between them, and the thicker foot layer were demonstrated in ‘Glen Ample’. The ectoexine constituted on average ca. 78–90% of the exine thickness. The findings may constitute auxiliary traits i.a. for identification of related taxa, interpretation of phylogenetic relationships, and pollination biology.

Plant Complexity and Cosmetic Innovation

Plants have been used in cosmetic products since ancient times and are the subject of scientific investigation even nowadays. During the years, a deeper understanding of both the behavior of skin and of plants have become available drawing increasingly complex pictures. Plants are complex organisms that produce different metabolites responding to the environment they live in. Applied to the skin, phytomolecules interact with skin cells and affect the skin well-being and appearance. Ethnobotanical studies on the one hand and physico-chemical analyses on the other have pictured a rich inventory of plants with potential to enrich modern cosmetic products.

Multidirectional biological investigation and phytochemical profile of Rubus sanctus and Rubus ibericus

In the present study, the biological properties, including, the enzyme inhibitory and antioxidant activities, as well as, the phytochemical profile of the ethyl acetate, methanol, and water extracts of Rubus sanctus Schreb. and Rubus ibericus Juz. leaves were determined using in vitro bioassays. Wide range of phytochemicals, including, hydroxybenzoic acids, hydroxycinnamic acids, acylquinic acids, ellagitannins, flavonoids, and triterpenoid saponins were determined using UHPLC-ESI/HRMS technique. The ethyl acetate and methanol extracts of the studied Rubus species effectively inhibited acetyl and butyryl cholinesterase. On the other hand, R. sanctus water extract showed low inhibition against α-amylase and prominent inhibitory action against α-glucosidase. Data collected from this study reported the radical scavenging and reducing potential of the studied Rubus species. Investigation of the protective effects of the different extracts of R. sanctus and R. ibericus in experimental model of ulcerative colitis was performed. The extracts were also tested on spontaneous migration of human colon cancer cells (HCT116) in wound healing experimental paradigm. Only R. sanctus methanol extract inhibited spontaneous HCT116 migration in the wound healing test. Our results suggested that R. sanctus and R. ibericus may be potential candidates as sources of biologically-active compounds for the development of nutraceuticals, pharmaceuticals, and/or cosmetics.

Plant cell culture as emerging technology for production of active cosmetic ingredients

Plants have always been the main source for active cosmetic ingredients, having proven health beneficial effects on human, such as anti-aging, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, UV-protective, anti-cancer, anti-wrinkle, skin soothing, whitening, moisturizing, etc. Extracts from herbal, aromatic and/or medicinal plants have been widely used as effective active ingredients in cosmeceuticals or nutricosmetics, especially in products for topical application and skin-care formulations. However, over the past decade, there has been an increasing interest to plant cell culture - derived active cosmetic ingredients. These are "new generation" of high quality natural products, produced by the modern plan biotechnology methods, which usually showed stronger activities than the plant extracts obtained by the classical methods. In this review, the advantages and the current progress in plant cell culture technology for the production of active cosmetic ingredients have been summarized, and discussed in details within a presented case study for calendula stem cell product development.