Anti-aging Effects of Select Botanicals: Scientific Evidence and Current Trends

Comparison the Effect of Conventional and Nanofat Injection Methods on Nasolabial Fold Lipofilling: A Case- Control Study

Background

Nasolabial folds are a common sign of aging, accompanied by various manifestations such as skin and tissue loosening, wrinkles, lip corner drooping, mandibular angle loss, platysmal bands, and skin pigmentation changes. Limited research has explored Nanofat injection methods. this study was done with the aim of comparing the effect of fat injection by two methods, conventional and Nanofat, in nasolabial folds.

Method

The study conducted in 2020-2021 at the skin clinic in Ilam, western Iran was a case-control study. Participants were divided into two groups, and lipofilling procedures were performed using conventional and nanofat methods with autologous fat. Data collection utilized a researcher-made questionnaire and radiographic results. Follow-up visits occurred on the 30th, 90th, and 180th days to assess complications and recovery rates. After 6 months, participant's photographs were taken and compared with pre-intervention photographs using the GIAS criteria. Data analysis was conducted using SPSS22 version software.

Results

The average age of the participants was 37.80±8.30 yr. The treatment response in the conventional fat injection group was significantly better than the nanofat group (P<0.05). Both groups were satisfied with the treatment methods, but high satisfaction was reported in the conventional group, but there was no statistically significant difference between the groups.

Conclusion

Both methods of improving wrinkles were effective, but the improvement and response to treatment in the conventional method was better than the Nanofat method, and its effect was felt by the participants for an average period of 3 months.

Protective potential of frankincense essential oil and its loaded solid lipid nanoparticles against UVB-induced photodamage in rats via MAPK and PI3K/AKT signaling pathways; A promising anti-aging therapy

Frankincense oil has gained increased popularity in skin care, yet its anti-aging effect remains unclear. The current study aimed to investigate the anti-photoaging effect of frankincense (Boswellia papyrifera (Del.) Hochst., Family Burseraceae) essential oil in an in vivo model. The oil was initially extracted by two methods: hydro-distillation (HD) and microwave-assisted hydro-distillation (MAHD). GC/MS analysis revealed the dominance of n-octyl acetate, along with other marker compounds of B. papyrifera including octanol and diterpene components (verticilla 4(20) 7, 11-triene and incensole acetate). Thereafter, preliminary investigation of the anti-collagenase and anti-elastase activities of the extracted oils revealed the superior anti-aging effect of HD-extracted oil (FO), comparable to epigallocatechin gallate. FO was subsequently formulated into solid lipid nanoparticles (FO-SLNs) via high shear homogenization to improve its solubility and skin penetration characteristics prior to in vivo testing. The optimimal formulation prepared with 0.5% FO, and 4% Tween® 80, demonstrated nanosized spherical particles with high entrapment efficiency percentage and sustained release for 8 hours. The anti-photoaging effect of FO and FO-SLNs was then evaluated in UVB-irradiated hairless rats, compared to Vitamin A palmitate as a positive standard. FO and FO-SLNs restored the antioxidant capacity (SOD and CAT) and prohibited inflammatory markers (IL6, NFκB p65) in UVB-irradiated rats via downregulation of MAPK (pERK, pJNK, and pp38) and PI3K/AKT signaling pathways, alongside upregulating TGF-β expression. Subsequently, our treatments induced Procollagen I synthesis and downregulation of MMPs (MMP1, MMP9), where FO-SLNs exhibited superior anti-photoaging effect, compared to FO and Vitamin A, highlighting the use of SLNs as a promising nanocarrier for FO. In particular, FO-SLNs revealed normal epidermal and dermal histological structures, protected against UVβ-induced epidermal thickness and dermal collagen degradation. Our results indicated the potential use of FO-SLNs as a promising topical anti-aging therapy.

α-Ionone protects against UVB-induced photoaging in epidermal keratinocytes

Objective

To evaluate whether α-ionone, an aromatic compound mainly found in raspberries, carrots, roasted almonds, fruits, and herbs, inhibits UVB-mediated photoaging and barrier dysfunction in a human epidermal keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT cells).

Methods

The anti-photoaging effect of α-ionone was evaluated by detecting the expression of barrier-related genes and matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) in HaCaT cells. The levels of reactive oxygen species, oxidation product, antioxidant enzyme, and inflammatory factors were further analysed to underline the protective effect of α-ionone on epidermal photoaging.

Results

It was found that α-ionone attenuated UVB-induced barrier dysfunction by reversing keratin 1 and filaggrin in HaCaT cells. α-Ionone also reduced the protein amount of MMP-1 and mRNA expression of MMP-1 and MMP-3 in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells, implying protective effects on extracellular matrix. Furthermore, HaCaT cells exposed to α-ionone showed significant decreases in interleukin (IL)-1β, IL-6, IL-8, and tumor necrosis factor-α as compared to UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells. α-Ionone treatment significantly inhibited the UVB-induced intracellular reactive oxygen species increase and malondialdehyde accumulation. Therefore, the beneficial effects of α-ionone on inhibiting MMPs secretion and barrier damage may be related to attenuated inflammation and oxidative stress.

Conclusion

Our results highlight the protective effects of α-ionone on epidermal photoaging and promote its clinic application as a potential natural anti-photodamage agent in future.

In Vitro and In Silico Pharmacological and Cosmeceutical Potential of Ten Essential Oils from Aromatic Medicinal Plants from the Mascarene Islands

In this study, 10 essential oils (EOs), from nine plants (Cinnamomum camphora, Curcuma longa, Citrus aurantium, Morinda citrifolia, Petroselinum crispum, Plectranthus amboinicus, Pittosporum senacia, Syzygium coriaceum, and Syzygium samarangense) were assessed for their antimicrobial, antiaging and antiproliferative properties. While only S. coriaceum, P. amboinicus (MIC: 0.50 mg/mL) and M. citrifolia (MIC: 2 mg/mL) EOs showed activity against Cutibacterium acnes, all EOs except S. samarangense EO demonstrated activity against Mycobacterium smegmatis (MIC: 0.125-0.50 mg/mL). The EOs were either fungistatic or fungicidal against one or both tested Candida species with minimum inhibitory/fungicidal concentrations of 0.016-32 mg/mL. The EOs also inhibited one or both key enzymes involved in skin aging, elastase and collagenase (IC₅₀: 89.22-459.2 µg/mL; 0.17-0.18 mg/mL, respectively). Turmerone, previously identified in the C. longa EO, showed the highest binding affinity with the enzymes (binding energy: -5.11 and -6.64 kcal/mol). Only C. aurantium leaf, C. longa, P. amboinicus, P. senacia, S. coriaceum, and S. samarangense EOs were cytotoxic to the human malignant melanoma cells, UCT-MEL1 (IC₅₀: 88.91-277.25 µg/mL). All the EOs, except M. citrifolia EO, were also cytotoxic to the human keratinocytes non-tumorigenic cells, HaCat (IC₅₀: 33.73-250.90 µg/mL). Altogether, some interesting therapeutic properties of the EOs of pharmacological/cosmeceutical interests were observed, which warrants further investigations.

Extraction, Physicochemical Properties, Anti-Aging, and Antioxidant Activities of Polysaccharides from Industrial Hemp Residues

A large amount of hemp polysaccharides remain in industrial hemp residues (IHR) after cannabidiol extraction, resulting in the waste of resources. Therefore, the systematic study of hemp polysaccharides is beneficial to the development of IHR in the future. In this study, the extraction of industrial hemp residues polysaccharide (IHRPs) was optimized by single-factor experiment and orthogonal experimental design. The optimum heating extraction conditions were extraction temperature 98 °C, solid–liquid ratio 1:10, extraction time 1 h, number of successive extractions 2, and pH at 4. The extraction ratio and the polysaccharide content were 20.12 ± 0.55% and 12.35 ± 0.26% at the conditions, respectively. Besides, the best alcohol precipitation conditions were pumping with 2 L/h, stirring continuously, and ice-water bath for 4 h. The crude IHRPs was further purified by column chromatography and the polysaccharide/protein contents of purified IHRPs were 34.44% and 1.61%. IHRPs was mainly made up of ten monosaccharides and some non-sugar components including organic acids, flavonoids, steroids, and glycoside. The FT-IR demonstrated the polysaccharide skeleton of IHRPs. Moreover, the DPPH and ABTS scavenging rate of IHRPs were 76.00% and 99.05% at the concentrations of 1 mg/mL. IHRPs could promote the epidermal cells proliferation and healing of cell scratches. Meanwhile, IHRPs could promoted the expression of anti-aging-related genes. Overall, IHRPs could be a desirable natural source of antioxidants and anti-aging products in many aspects.

Coriander (Coriandrum sativum L.) essential oil and oil-loaded nano-formulations as an anti-aging potentiality via TGFβ/SMAD pathway

Aging has become a concern for many people, especially women. Given that high-quality anti-aging products are of high cost; it has imperative to search for other economical sources. Essential oils are frequently used in cosmetics products due to a wide range of biological activities as well as their pleasant odor. The current study aimed to investigate the biochemical effect of the cosmetic potential of selected Apiaceous essential oils, traditionally used for skincare, by evaluating their anti-wrinkle activity. It is worth noting that, coriander essential oil showed the highest collagenase, elastase, tyrosinase, and hyaluronidase inhibitory activities compared to other Apiaceous oils (fennel, anise, and cumin). GC–MS proved that coriander essential oil showed a very high level of oxygenated monoterpenes, with linalool (81.29%) as the most abundant constituent. Intriguingly, coriander oil cream and Coriander Essential Oil-loaded Lipid Nanoparticles (CEOLNs) formulations attenuated in vivo UV-induced skin photoaging that was manifested by significantly decreased MDA, COX-2, PGE-2, MMP-1, JNK, and AP-1 levels. Moreover, these pharmaceutical dosage forms significantly increased skin collagen content compared to UV-injured group. Also, coriander essential oil significantly increased TGFβ, TGFβII, and SMAD3 protein expression levels compared to UV-injured group. In conclusion, the pharmaceutical dosage forms of coriander oil possess anti-wrinkle activities that could have an auspicious role in amending extrinsic aging.

Analysis of Gliricidia sepium Leaves by MALDI Mass Spectrometry Imaging

When investigating the potential use of plants as a raw material for an all-natural cosmetic formulation, the main parameters are the chemical composition, antioxidant potential, antimicrobial action, and toxicity. Additionally, the production of natural cosmetics should also consider the availability of primary materials and the environmental and socioeconomic impact. Gliricidia sepium is a species that produces a large amount of plant material, being cultivated in the agroforestry system. However, studies of phytochemical composition and chemical spatial distribution are scarcely using the MALDI MS (matrix-assisted laser desorption ionization mass spectrometry) and MALDI MSI (mass spectrometry imaging) techniques. A methodology was developed to optimize ionization parameters and analysis conditions by evaluating the efficiency of three matrices: α-cyano-4-hydroxycinnamic acid, 2,5-dihydroxybenzoic acid (DHB), and 2-mercaptobenzothiazole in MALDI MS analysis. All results were compared to ESI MS (electrospray ionization mass spectrometry), and afterward, MALDI MSI analysis was performed on the leaf surface. This study showed through phytochemical analysis that G. sepium leaves are composed of polyphenols and tannins, concluding that the methanolic extract had a higher amount of flavonoid content. Four compounds were identified on the leaf surface, and their spatial distribution was analyzed by MALDI MS using DHB as a matrix. Kaempferol, isorhamnetin, and some fatty acids showed potential applicability for cosmetical use. All the extracts presented antioxidant activity or antimicrobial action and no cytotoxicity. Therefore, extracts of G. sepium could be used as raw materials in cosmetics.

Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra, G. uralensis, and G. inflata) and Their Constituents as Active Cosmeceutical Ingredients

The interest in plant extracts and natural compounds in cosmetic formulations is growing. Natural products may significantly improve cosmetics performance since they have both cosmetic and therapeutic-like properties, known as cosmeceutical effects. Glycyrrhiza genus, belonging to the Leguminosae family, comprises more than 30 species, widely distributed worldwide. The rhizomes and roots are the most important medicinal parts currently used in pharmaceutical industries and in the production of functional foods and food supplements. In the last few years, the interest in their potential activities in cosmetic formulations has greatly increased. Glycyrrhiza spp. extracts are widely implemented in cosmetic products for their good whitening effect. The biological effects of Glycyrrhiza extracts are especially ascribable to the occurrence of specialized metabolites belonging to the flavonoid class. This review focuses on the botany and the chemistry of the main investigated Glycyrrhiza spp. (G. glabra, G. uralensis, and G. inflata) along with their cosmeceutical activities categorized as skin anti-aging, photoprotective, hair care, and anti-acne. It has been highlighted how, along with Glycyrrhiza extracts, three main flavonoids namely licochalcone A, glabridin, and dehydroglyasperin C are the most investigated compounds. It is noteworthy that other molecules from licorice show potential cosmeceutical effects. These data suggest further investigations to clarify their potential value for cosmetic industries.

Characterization and Stability of a Formulation Containing Antioxidants-Enriched Castanea sativa Shells Extract

The cosmetic industry is a field on rise where the search for novel antioxidant ingredients, preferably from natural matrixes, became a new challenge. The reuse of Castanea sativa shells as a source of phytochemicals with pro-healthy effects in skin care products may be a valuable alternative to valorize this underexploited agro-industrial by-product. A previous study of our research group demonstrated the antioxidant properties of chestnut shells extract obtained by ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE), as well as its safeness on skin cell lines, namely keratinocytes and fibroblasts. Based on the extract richness in antioxidants, a formulation containing C. sativa shells extract obtained by this environmentally friendly technology was successfully developed in the present study. The oil-in-water (O/W) cream incorporating the chestnut shells extract was further characterized regarding organoleptic and technological properties, namely color, pH, droplets size, and viscosity. A stability study over time was also accomplished. The results demonstrate that the formulation not only displayed pleasant organoleptic characteristics attractive to consumers but also a pH compatible with skin and a suitable viscosity for topical application. The stability study revealed minor changes to droplet size and color, without affecting the general stability of the formulation. In conclusion, this study emphasized the prominent benefits of chestnut shells extract as a novel ingredient for skin care formulations.

Trends in the Use of Botanicals in Anti-Aging Cosmetics

Botanical ingredients have been used for thousands of years in skincare for their convenience as well as the diversity and abundance in compounds with biological activity. Among these, polyphenols and especially flavonoids have gained increasing prominence due to their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. In this study, the most used botanical preparations in anti-aging products marketed in 2011 were determined. The analysis was repeated in 2018 for new and reformulated products. The scientific evidence for their application as active ingredients in anti-aging cosmetics and their flavonoid content was also compiled by searching in online scientific databases. Overall, in 2018, there was a noticeable increase in the use of botanical preparations in anti-aging cosmetics. However, the top three botanical species in both years were Vitis vinifera, Butyrospermum parkii, and Glycine soja, which is consistent with the greater amount of scientific evidence supporting their efficacy. Regarding the function of botanical preparations, there is a clear preference for DNA-protecting ingredients. The most prevalent flavonoids were flavan-3-ols, proanthocyanidins, and anthocyanins. This study provided an updated overview of the market trends regarding the use of botanicals in anti-aging products and documented the state of the art of scientific evidence for the most used plants.

Skin-related enzyme inhibitory activity by hydrolyzable polyphenols in water chestnut (Trapa natans) husk

Water chestnut is a floating leaf plant native to Asia and Europe. Its fruit has long been used as an edible and herbal medicine. Water chestnut contains many polyphenols and its consumption can prevent lifestyle-related diseases because it has a suppressive effect on postprandial blood glucose elevation; however, its suitability as a cosmetic material is unknown. Therefore, this study aimed at investigating the antiaging effect of polyphenols contained in the husk of the devil water chestnut (Trapa natans). Six hydrolyzable polyphenols-1,6-di-O-galloyl-β-d-glucopyranose, 1,2,6-tri-O-galloyl-β-d-glucopyranose, 1,6-di-O-galloyl-2,3-O-(S)-hexahydroxydiphenoyl-β-d-glucopyranose (nobotanin D), eugeniin, 1,2,3,6-tetra-O-galloyl-β-d-glucopyranose, and trapain-were collected and isolated from the water chestnut husk. These polyphenols showed high antioxidant and antiglycation activities. In addition, inhibitory activities against hyaluronidase, elastase, and collagenase were observed. Especially, eugeniin and trapain, which have many gallic acids and a hexahydroxy-biphenyl group, showed high inhibitory activities. Thus, the polyphenols in water chestnut are beneficial for antiaging effects.

Protective effect of a mixture of marigold and rosemary extracts on UV-induced photoaging in mice

UV irradiation exposure may induce photoaging of the skin tissue. Various plant extracts have been recognized as effective protectants against UV-induced damage. Here, a mixture of marigold and rosemary extracts was evaluated for its anti-photoaging effects as a potential nutraceutical product for skin health. Hexane extract of marigold and ethanolic extract of rosemary were prepared, and the formulated mixture was investigated. A UV-induced photoaged mouse model was prepared, and the protective effects of the extract mixture were compared with those of hyaluronic acid (positive control). Expression of various photoaging-related biomarkers such as matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), interleukins, tumor necrosis factor-alpha, procollagen type I, 8-hydroxy-deoxyguanosine, superoxide dismutase, glutathione peroxidase, and catalase were determined. UV irradiation significantly enhanced the expression of these biomarkers through an inflammatory response, however, the mixture of marigold and rosemary extracts exerted inhibitory effects and protected from UV-induced damage. Suppression of inflammatory response were the mechanisms underlying this protective function of the mixture of marigold and rosemary extracts. Histological evaluation also supported these protective effects against photoaging.

Lipid Nanoparticles for Enhancing the Physicochemical Stability and Topical Skin Delivery of Orobol

Orobol is one of the major soy isoflavones, and has been reported to have various pharmacological activities, including an anti-skin-aging effect. However, since it has low solubility in water and physicochemical instability, the formulation of orobol for delivery into the dermal layer of the skin could be challenging. The objective of this study was to prepare lipid nanoparticles formulations of orobol to enhance its stability as well as its deposition into the skin. Formulations of orobol-loaded solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) and nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) were characterized in terms of their mean particle size, entrapment efficiency, and morphology. The nano-sized spherical NLCs formulations maintained the stability of orobol for up to 28 days. Moreover, the NLCs formulation significantly increased the in vitro deposition of orobol into both Strat-M membranes and human cadaver skin compared with the other formulations. Additionally, the NLCs formulation did not cause significant skin irritation in clinical study. These results demonstrate that a shea butter-based NLC formulation could be a promising and safe carrier system for improving the stability of orobol and enhancing its topical skin delivery.

Batch Stirred-Tank Green Extraction of Salvia fruticosa Mill. Polyphenols Using Newly Designed Citrate-Based Deep Eutectic Solvents and Ultrasonication Pretreatment

A series of citrate salts were tested as hydrogen bond acceptors to synthesize deep eutectic solvents (DES) based on lactic acid and glycerol, used as hydrogen bond donors. The DES produced were then screened to identify the highest performing system for the effective extraction of polyphenolic phytochemicals from the medicinal plant Salvia fruticosa Mill. (Greek sage). The most efficacious DES was the one composed of lactic acid and sodium citrate dibasic, at a molar ratio of 15:1 (LA-SCDB15). Furthermore, for the first time there has been evidence concerning DES pH and extraction efficiency. Using this solvent, a batch, stirred-tank extraction process was developed, by employing ultrasonication pretreatment and response surface methodology. The optimal settings determined were stirring speed 900 rpm, proportion of DES/water 77% (w/v), and ultrasonication pretreatment time 15 min. By adjusting these optimal settings, the predicted maximum total polyphenol yield was calculated to be 79.93 ± 1.92 mg gallic acid equivalents g−1 dry mass. The examination of temperature effects demonstrated that the batch, stirred-tank extraction stage was very energy-efficient, with a barrier of 7.64 kJ mol−1. Comparison of the extraction of Salvia fruticosa polyphenols with other green processes previously developed, illustrated the high extraction capacity of LA-SCDB15. The major polyphenols identified in the extracts produced under optimized settings were chlorogenic acid, luteolin 7-O-glucuronide and rosmarinic acid.

Hydroglycerolic Solvent and Ultrasonication Pretreatment: A Green Blend for High-Efficiency Extraction of Salvia fruticosa Polyphenols

Salvia fruticosa Miller, also known as Cretan or Greek sage, is a medicinal plant with significant biological properties, which are largely ascribed to its polyphenolic composition, but there is to-date a scarcity of green and sustainable processes for efficient polyphenol extraction from this plant. The objective of this study was the implementation of an extraction process that would combine a green solvent based on glycerol, a biodiesel industry by-product, and ultrasonication pretreatment. Ultrasonication for 40 min followed by stirred-tank extraction was shown to provide significantly higher total polyphenol yield than mere stirred-tank extraction, while kinetics indicated 50 °C as the most favorable temperature, with the yield being 92 mg gallic acid equivalents (GAE) per g dry mass. Comparison of this method with a previously developed one that used methyl β-cyclodextrin revealed that the extracts obtained had similar antioxidant activity, and yield in major polyphenols including luteolin 7-O-glucuronide and rosmarinic acid was virtually equal. The current process is proposed as a sustainable and effective methodology for the generation of polyphenol-enriched extracts from S. fruticosa, which could be used as effective food antioxidants/antimicrobials and/or cosmetic constituents.

Age related changes in the dermal mast cells and the associated changes in the dermal collagen and cells: A histological and electron microscopy study

Mast cells are widely distributed bone marrow cells. They have a crucial role in the dermal aging process. The aim of the present study was to describe the biochemical and the histological changes that occur in the aged dermal mast cells and to demonstrate the associated changes in the dermal cells and fibers as well. Sixteen male albino rats were used and divided into two groups; the control group (8-10 weeks) and the aged group (20-22 weeks). The rats were decapitated then processed for further biochemical and histological studies. The mean area fraction for collagen fibers was measured. In the aged group, there was a significant increase in the skin histamine and heparin levels if compared with the control one. Furthermore, there was an apparent increase in intact and degranulated dermal mast cells if compared with the control one. The dermal collagen bundles were apparently decreased and appeared distorted with wide spacing. Additionally, there were apparently large sized eosinophils with more cytoplasmic granules. Direct contact between mast, fibroblast, and macrophage cells was noticed. The average area fraction of collagen fibers was significantly increased in the aged group if compared with the control one. It could be concluded that the secretory activity of dermal mast cells was significantly increased in the aged skin group. Also, this study demonstrated the implicated role of mast cell in aged skin changes. Further long-term studies are needed to validate the prophylactic or therapeutic potential by intentional hindering of mast cell degranulation in aged skin.