A New Gelling Agent and Rheology Modifier in Cosmetics: Caesalpinia spinosa Gum

Plant gums in Pickering emulsions: A review of sources, properties, applications, and future perspectives

Recently, there has been an increasing research interest in the development of Pickering emulsions stabilized with naturally derived biopolymeric particles. In this regard, plant gums, obtained as plant exudates or from plant seeds, are considered promising candidates for the development of non-toxic, biocompatible, biodegradable and eco-friendly Pickering stabilizers. The main objective of this review article is to provide a detailed overview and assess the latest advances in the formulation of Pickering emulsions stabilized with plant gum-based particles. The plant gum sources, types and properties are outlined. Besides, the current methodologies used in the production of plant gum particles formed solely of plant gums, or through interactions of plant gums with proteins or other polysaccharides are highlighted and discussed. Furthermore, the work compiles and assesses the innovative applications of plant gum-based Pickering emulsions in areas such as encapsulation and delivery of drugs and active agents, along with the utilization of these Pickering emulsions in the development of active packaging films, plant-based products and low-fat food formulations. The last part of the review presents potential future research trends that are expected to motivate and direct research to areas related to other novel food applications, as well as tissue engineering and environmental applications.

Film-Forming, Moisturizing, and Sensory Properties of a Cosmetic Formulation Containing Tara Gum and Brazilian Berry Extracts

The development of cosmetic formulations with moisturizing and film-forming properties has been very important to help keep skin physiology and protection. In this context, this study aimed to develop a cosmetic formulation containing Tara gum and Brazilian berry extract and evaluate its physical-mechanical, film-forming, and sensory properties. A gel formulation was developed based on Tara gum added to Plinia cauliflora extract and was characterized by its spreadability profile and sensory properties. A clinical study was carried out with ten participants to evaluate the skin microrelief, stratum corneum water content, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin morphological characteristics by reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) before and after 2 h of application of the formulations. The formulation with Brazilian berry significantly decreased the work of shear parameter, which can be correlated with improved spreadability in the sensory analysis. The clinical study showed that both formulations improved skin hydration and reduced the TEWL. The RCM imaging analysis showed the visible film on the skin surface, a decrease in the size of furrows, an increase in the reflectance of the interkeratinocytes, and reflectance of the stratum corneum for both formulations. These results were more pronounced for the formulation containing Brazilian berry. The Tara gum in the gel formulation promoted the formation and visualization of a polymeric net on the stratum corneum surface, demonstrated by the images obtained from RCM. However, the formulation added with the Brazilian berry extract improved the skin microrelief, honeycomb pattern of the epidermis, and skin hydration in deeper layers of the epidermis.

New Alk(en)ylhydroxycyclohexanes with Tyrosinase Inhibition Potential from Harpephyllum caffrum Bernh. Gum Exudate

This work presents the first report on the phytochemical investigation of Harpephyllum caffrum Bernh. gum exudate. A known cardanol, 3-heptadec-12'-Z-enyl phenol (1) and three new alk(en)ylhydroxycyclohexanes, namely, (1R,3R)-1,3-dihydroxy-3-[heptadec-12'(Z)-enyl]cyclohexane (2) (1S,2S,3S,4S,5R)-1,2,3,4,5-pentahydroxy-5-[octadec-13'(Z)-enyl]cyclohexane (3) and (1R,2S,4R)-1,2,4-trihydroxy-4-[heptadec-12'(Z)-enyl]cyclohexane (4) were isolated from the gum. The structures of the compounds were determined by extensive 1D and 2D NMR spectroscopy and HR-ESI-MS data. The ethanolic extract of the gum was found to be the most potent tyrosinase inhibitor with IC₅₀ of 11.32 µg/mL while compounds 2 and 3, with IC₅₀ values of 24.90 and 26.99 µg/mL, respectively, were found to be potential anti-tyrosinase candidates from the gum. Gum exudate may be a potential source for non-destructive harvesting of selective pharmacologically active compounds from plants. The results also provide evidence that H. caffrum gum may find application in cosmetics as a potential anti-tyrosinase agent.

Fundamentals and applications of particle stabilized emulsions in cosmetic formulations

The cosmetic industry is one of the fastest growing industrial sectors that is constantly evolving by absorbing new technologies and incorporating innovative yet sustainable products. Cosmetic products are comprised of diverse formulations such as skin care, color cosmetics, hair care, makeup, body care products. Traditionally, cosmetic emulsions are stabilized using surfactants or polymers. Due to its adverse effects on environment, cytotoxicity effects, numerous health hazards, there is a strong drive to shift towards sustainable and surfactant free emulsions. With increasing consumer demand for a safer and more biodegradable products, formulating "surfactant- free" emulsions by replacing conventional stabilizers with particles has gained popularity. In this review, various important aspects and applications of particle stabilized emulsions in cosmetic formulations will be discussed. Importantly, novel ideas on surface modification of particles and use of Janus particles in cosmetic formulations will be discussed.