A Review of Moisturizers; History, Preparation, Characterization and Applications

Aloe vera-An Extensive Review Focused on Recent Studies

Since ancient times, Aloe vera L. (AV) has attracted scientific interest because of its multiple cosmetic and medicinal properties, attributable to compounds present in leaves and other parts of the plant. The collected literature data show that AV and its products have a beneficial influence on human health, both by topical and oral use, as juice or an extract. Several scientific studies demonstrated the numerous biological activities of AV, including, for instance, antiviral, antimicrobial, antitumor, and antifungal. Moreover, its important antidepressant activity in relation to several diseases, including skin disorders (psoriasis, acne, and so on) and prediabetes, is a growing field of research. This comprehensive review intends to present the most significant and recent studies regarding the plethora of AV's biological activities and an in-depth analysis exploring the component/s responsible for them. Moreover, its morphology and chemical composition are described, along with some studies regarding the single components of AV available in commerce. Finally, valorization studies and a discussion about the metabolism and toxicological aspects of this "Wonder Plant" are reported.

Characterization and Performance Analysis of Hydrolyzed versus Non-Hydrolyzed Poly(NVF-co-HEA) Hydrogels for Cosmetic Applications

This study explores the synthesis and modification of poly(N-vinylformamide-co-N-hydroxyethyl acrylamide) (poly(NVF-co-HEA)) hydrogels for cosmetic applications. Poly(NVF-co-HEA) hydrogels were produced followed by an acid hydrolysis reaction to produce poly(NVF-co-VAm-co-HEA) hydrogels, introducing poly(vinyl amine) (PVAm) into the structure. This modification considerably alters the hydrogels' properties, yielding materials with over 96% water content, predominantly in the form of non-freezing or free water, which is beneficial in the uptake and release of hydrophilic species. The primary amine groups from inclusion of VAm also improved the mechanical properties, as evidenced by an 8-fold increase in Young's modulus. The hydrogels also possessed pH-responsive behavior, which was particularly noticeable under acidic and basic conditions, where a large decrease in water content was observed (40% to 75% reduction). Characterizing the hydrogels' release capabilities involved using organic dyes of different functional groups and sizes to examine the pH impact on release. The results indicated that hydrolyzed hydrogels interacted more effectively with charged species, highlighting their suitability for pH-responsive delivery. The release of cosmetic active ingredients was also demonstrated through the controlled release of Liquid Azelaic™, specifically potassium azeloyl diglycinate (PAD). Our findings reveal that the hydrolyzed hydrogels exhibit superior burst release, especially under alkaline conditions, suggesting their suitability for cosmetic applications where controlled, pH-responsive delivery of active ingredients is desired. Overall, this investigation highlights the potential of hydrolyzed poly(NVF-co-HEA) hydrogels in cosmetic applications. Their ability to combine high water content with mechanical integrity, along with their pH-responsive release ability, allows for use in cosmetic formulations.

Development and Efficacy Evaluation of Innovative Cosmetic Formulations with Caryocar brasiliense Fruit Pulp Oil Encapsulated in Freeze-Dried Liposomes

Encapsulation and drying technologies allow the engineering of innovative raw materials from plant biodiversity, with potential applications in pharmaceutical and cosmetic fields. Lipid-based nanoencapsulation stands out for its efficiency, ease of production, and versatility in encapsulating substances, whether hydrophilic or lipophilic. This work aimed at encapsulating pequi oil in liposomes and freeze-dried liposomes to enhance its stability and functional benefits, such as skin hydration and anti-aging effects, for use in innovative cosmetic formulations. Pequi oil-extracted from the Caryocar brasiliense fruit pulp, a plant species from Brazilian plant biodiversity-is rich in secondary metabolites and fatty acids. Liposomes and dried liposomes offer controlled production processes and seamless integration into cosmetic formulations. The physicochemical analysis of the developed liposomes confirmed that the formulations are homogeneous and electrokinetically stable, as evidenced by consistent particle size distribution and zeta potential values, respectively. The gel-type formulations loaded with the dried liposomes exhibit enhanced skin hydration, improved barrier function, and refined microrelief, indicating improvements in skin conditions. These results highlight the potential of dried liposomes containing pequi oil for the development of innovative cosmeceutical products. This research contributes to the valorization of Brazilian biodiversity by presenting an innovative approach to leveraging the dermatological benefits of pequi oil in cosmetic applications.

Effects of shear-induced crystallization on the complex viscosity of lamellar-structured concentrated surfactant solutions

Material relationships at low temperatures were determined for concentrated surfactant solutions using a combination of rheological experiments, cross-polarized microscopy, calorimetry, and small angle X-ray scattering. A lamellar structured 70 wt% solution of sodium laureth sulfate in water was used as a model system. At cold temperatures (5 °C and 10 °C), the formation of surfactant crystals resulted in extremely high viscosity. The bulk flow behavior of multi-lamellar vesicles (20 °C) and focal conic defects (90 °C) in the lamellar phase was similar. Shear-induced crystallization at temperatures higher than the equilibrium crystallization temperature range resulted in an unusual complex viscosity peak. The effects of processing-relevant parameters including temperature, cooling time, and applied shear were investigated. Knowledge of key low-temperature structure-property-processing relationships for concentrated feedstocks is essential for the sustainable design and manufacturing of surfactant-based consumer products for applications such as cold-water laundry.

Film-Forming, Moisturizing, and Sensory Properties of a Cosmetic Formulation Containing Tara Gum and Brazilian Berry Extracts

The development of cosmetic formulations with moisturizing and film-forming properties has been very important to help keep skin physiology and protection. In this context, this study aimed to develop a cosmetic formulation containing Tara gum and Brazilian berry extract and evaluate its physical-mechanical, film-forming, and sensory properties. A gel formulation was developed based on Tara gum added to Plinia cauliflora extract and was characterized by its spreadability profile and sensory properties. A clinical study was carried out with ten participants to evaluate the skin microrelief, stratum corneum water content, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin morphological characteristics by reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) before and after 2 h of application of the formulations. The formulation with Brazilian berry significantly decreased the work of shear parameter, which can be correlated with improved spreadability in the sensory analysis. The clinical study showed that both formulations improved skin hydration and reduced the TEWL. The RCM imaging analysis showed the visible film on the skin surface, a decrease in the size of furrows, an increase in the reflectance of the interkeratinocytes, and reflectance of the stratum corneum for both formulations. These results were more pronounced for the formulation containing Brazilian berry. The Tara gum in the gel formulation promoted the formation and visualization of a polymeric net on the stratum corneum surface, demonstrated by the images obtained from RCM. However, the formulation added with the Brazilian berry extract improved the skin microrelief, honeycomb pattern of the epidermis, and skin hydration in deeper layers of the epidermis.

The Fatty Acid Compositions, Irritation Properties, and Potential Applications of Teleogryllus mitratus Oil in Nanoemulsion Development

This study aimed to characterize and investigate the potential of the oils from Gryllus bimaculatus, Teleogryllus mitratus, and Acheta domesticus to be used in nanoemulsions. The oils were extracted by a cold press method and characterized for their fatty acid profiles. Their irritation effects on the chorioallantoic membrane (CAM) were evaluated, along with investigations of solubility and the required hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (RHLB). Various parameters impacting nanoemulsion generation using high-pressure homogenization were investigated. The findings revealed that G. bimaculatus yielded the highest oil content (24.58% w/w), followed by T. mitratus (20.96% w/w) and A. domesticus (15.46% w/w). Their major fatty acids were palmitic, oleic, and linoleic acids. All oils showed no irritation, suggesting safety for topical use. The RHLB values of each oil were around six-seven. However, they could be successfully developed into nanoemulsions using various surfactants. All cricket oils could be used for the nanoemulsion preparation, but T. mitratus yielded the smallest internal droplet size with acceptable PDI and zeta potential. Nanoemulsion was found to significantly enhance the antioxidant and anti-skin wrinkle of the T. mitratus oil. These findings pointed to the possible use of cricket oils in nanoemulsions, which could be used in various applications, including topical and cosmetic formulations.

Evaluation of the effect of several moisturizing creams using the low frequency electrical susceptance approach

Moisturizers are cosmetic compounds designed to increase the moisture content of the skin. There are many types of these products in the market making it difficult for consumers to select the most effective moisturizer according to their age and gender. Hence, the aim of this study was to evaluate the effects of different moisturizers on skin hydration as well as to figure out any dependencies of the effects of these products on age or gender-related differences. We investigated the short-term moisturizing effects of five different skin moisturizers on 60 participants by using a low frequency electrical instrument. Skin surface susceptance was recorded and compared before and after the application of moisturizers. Statistically significant differences were observed in the moisturizing effect among different types of products. However, with respect to gender and age differences, there were insignificant differences in the effects of the moisturizers. Results of this study suggest that some types of moisturizers that exist in the markets are not as effective as required, which calls for a further evaluation of the moisturizers before entering markets and offering them for sale. In addition, findings suggest that gender or age differences are perhaps not important to consider in the application of moisturizers.

Gauging Quince Phytonutrients and Its 4% Emulgel Effect on Amplifying Facial Skin Moisturizing Potential

BACKGROUND

The aim of this study was to evaluate the moisturizing efficacy of quince fruit, used in folk medicine. For this purpose, the phytoconstituents of Cydonia oblonga fruit extract, like phenolics and flavonoids, were determined. A stable cosmetic emulgel containing 4% Cydonia oblonga fresh fruit extract was formulated and subjected to in vivo evaluation compared with a control.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Cydonia oblonga fresh fruit extract was evaluated for tyrosinase activity and phenolic and flavonoid content. A stable emulgel containing 4% Cydonia oblonga fresh fruit extract was formulated and tested in a skin irritation test. After this, in vivo tests of erythema, moisture, sebum, and skin elasticity were conducted. The in vivo evaluation was a randomized and single-blind study. Thirteen healthy female volunteers were selected for a three-month study period.

RESULTS

Cydonia oblonga fruit extract showed good phenolic and flavonoid content, which was associated with its good antioxidant and tyrosinase-inhibiting activity. Cydonia oblonga containing the emulgel showed a reduction in sebum and erythema, while the elasticity and moisture content showed increments in their levels after the three-month application of the formulation. The fruit contains chlorogenic acid and many sugars, which might account for its anti-inflammatory and sebum reduction effects; it is also capable of enhancing the skin's hydration level and decreasing skin sagging by enhancing its elasticity.

CONCLUSION

The emulgel loaded with Cydonia oblonga fresh fruit extract is verified regarding its folklore status as a moisturizing agent that enhances the facial skin cells' resilience potential.

A novel hydrogel-based moisturizing cream composed of hyaluronic acid for patients with xerosis: An intraindividual comparative analysis

BACKGROUND

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is mainly used to treat xerosis. It also exerts wound-healing, moisturizing, and antiaging effects. Although HA is considered an effective and safe ingredient in cosmetics, there is a constant demand for a more money-saving and effective formulation. This study aimed to evaluate the safety and efficacy of a novel hydrogel-based moisturizer containing HA cross-linked with silicone polymers, produced solely through irradiation without the use of cross-linking agents.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A safety study enrolled 30 participants with healthy skin to perform patch and photopatch tests while recording adverse events. For the efficacy study, 30 participants with xerosis were compared before and after using the novel hydrogel, evaluating the cutaneous barrier function, xerosis severity scale (XSS) score, participant's satisfaction, and Investigator's Global Assessment (IGA). Furthermore, the efficacy of the novel hydrogel-based moisturizer was evaluated by comparing it with a conventional moisturizer, Physiogel, in another 30 participants with xerosis.

RESULTS

In the safety study, no serious adverse events were observed. In the efficacy study before and after use, skin hydration and skin surface lipid increased (p < 0.05) whereas the XSS scores decreased (p < 0.05) with time. In the comparative efficacy study with Physiogel, skin hydration increased whereas the XSS scores decreased (p < 0.05) over time in both groups. Furthermore, IGA improved in 100% of participants in both groups. Also, 100% and 93% of participants were satisfied with the novel hydrogel-based moisturizer and Physiogel, respectively.

CONCLUSIONS

The novel hydrogel-based moisturizer proved to be safe and effective for xerosis, showing comparable results to the conventional moisturizer.

A novel rapamycin cream formulation improves facial angiofibromas associated with tuberous sclerosis complex: a double-blind randomized placebo-controlled trial

BACKGROUND

Facial angiofibromas (FAs) are a major feature of tuberous sclerosis complex (TSC). Topical rapamycin can successfully treat FAs. A new stabilized cream formulation that protects rapamycin from oxidation has been developed in 0.5% and 1% concentrations.

OBJECTIVES

To assess the efficacy and safety of a novel, stabilized topical rapamycin cream formulation.

METHODS

This multicentre double-blind randomized placebo-controlled dose-response phase II/III study with a parallel design included participants aged 6-65 years with FAs of mild or moderate severity according to the Investigator's Global Assessment (IGA) scale. Participants were randomized to one of three treatment arms: topical rapamycin 0.5%, topical rapamycin 1% or placebo. Treatment was applied once daily for 26 weeks. Safety and efficacy measures were assessed at days 14, 56, 98, 140 and 182. The primary endpoint was the percentage of participants achieving IGA scores of 'clear' or 'almost clear' after 26 weeks of treatment. Secondary measures included Facial Angiofibroma Severity Index (FASI) and participant- and clinician-reported percentage-based improvement. Safety measures included the incidence of treatment-emergent adverse events and blood rapamycin concentration changes over time.

RESULTS

Participants (n = 107) were randomized to receive either rapamycin 1% (n = 33), rapamycin 0.5% (n = 36) or placebo (n = 38). All treated participants were included in the final analysis. The percentage of participants with a two-grade IGA improvement was greater in the rapamycin 0.5% treatment group (11%) and rapamycin 1% group (9%) than in the placebo group (5%). However, this was not statistically significant [rapamycin 0.5%: odds ratio (OR) 1.71, 95% confidence interval (CI) 0.36-8.18 (P = 0.50); rapamycin 1%: OR 1.68, 95% CI 0.33-8.40 (P = 0.53)]. There was a statistically significant difference in the proportion of participants treated with rapamycin cream that achieved at least a one-grade improvement in IGA [rapamycin 0.5%: 56% (OR 4.73, 95% CI 1.59-14.10; P = 0.005); rapamycin 1%: 61% (OR 5.14, 95% CI 1.70-15.57; P = 0.004); placebo: 24%]. Skin adverse reactions were more common in patients following rapamycin application (64%) vs. placebo (29%).

CONCLUSIONS

Both rapamycin cream formulations (0.5% and 1%) were well tolerated, and either strength could lead to clinical benefit in the treatment of FA.

The in vitro effects of black soldier fly larvae (Hermitia illucens) oil as a high-functional active ingredient for inhibiting hyaluronidase, anti-oxidation benefits, whitening, and UVB protection

Objective: Larvae of Hermitia illucens, or black soldier fly larvae (BSFL), have been recognized for their high lipid yield with a remarkable fatty acid profile. BSFL oil (SFO) offers the added value of a low environmental footprint and a sustainable product. In this study, the characteristics and cosmetic-related activities of SFO were investigated and compared with rice bran oil, olive oil and krill oil which are commonly used in cosmetics and supplements. Methods: The physicochemical characteristics were determined including acid value, saponification value, unsaponifiable matter and water content of SFO. The fatty acid composition was determined using GC-MS equipped with TR-FAME. The in vitro antioxidant properties were determined using DPPH, FRAP and lipid peroxidation inhibition assays. Antihyaluronidase (anti-HAase) activity was measured by detecting enzyme activity and molecular docking of candidate compounds toward the HAase enzyme. The safety assessment towards normal human cells was determined using the MTT assay and the UVB protection upon UVB-irradiated fibroblasts was determined using the DCF-DA assay. The whitening effect of SFO was determined using melanin content inhibition. Results: SFO contains more than 60% polyunsaturated fatty acids followed by saturated fatty acids (up to 37%). The most abundant component found in SFO was linoleic acid (C18:2 n-6 cis). Multiple anti-oxidant mechanisms of SFO were discovered. In addition, SFO and krill oil prevented hyaluronic acid (HA) degradation via strong HAase inhibition comparable with the positive control, oleanolic acid. The molecular docking confirmed the binding interactions and molecular recognition of major free fatty acids toward HAase. Furthermore, SFO exhibited no cytotoxicity on primary human skin fibroblasts, HaCaT keratinocytes and PBMCs (IC50 values > 200 μg/mL). SFO possessed significant in-situ anti-oxidant activity in UVB-irradiated fibroblasts and the melanin inhibition activity as effective as well-known anti-pigmenting compounds (kojic acid and arbutin, p < 0.05). Conclusion: This study provides scientific support for various aspects of SFO. SFO can be considered an alternative oil ingredient in cosmetic products with potential implications for anti-skin aging, whitening and UVB protection properties, making it a potential candidate oil in the cosmetic industry.

Isosorbide Fatty Acid Diesters Have Synergistic Anti-Inflammatory Effects in Cytokine-Induced Tissue Culture Models of Atopic Dermatitis

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic disease in which epidermal barrier disruption triggers Th2-mediated eruption of eczematous lesions. Topical emollients are a cornerstone of chronic management. This study evaluated efficacy of two plant-derived oil derivatives, isosorbide di-(linoleate/oleate) (IDL) and isosorbide dicaprylate (IDC), using AD-like tissue culture models. Treatment of reconstituted human epidermis with cytokine cocktail (IL-4 + IL-13 + TNF-α + IL-31) compromised the epidermal barrier, but this was prevented by co-treatment with IDL and IDC. Cytokine stimulation also dysregulated expression of keratinocyte (KC) differentiation genes whereas treatment with IDC or IDL + IDC up-regulated genes associated with early (but not late) KC differentiation. Although neither IDL nor IDC inhibited Th2 cytokine responses, both compounds repressed TNF-α-induced genes and IDL + IDC led to synergistic down-regulation of inflammatory (IL1B, ITGA5) and neurogenic pruritus (TRPA1) mediators. Treatment of cytokine-stimulated skin explants with IDC decreased lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) secretion by more than 50% (more than observed with cyclosporine) and in vitro LDH activity was inhibited by IDL and IDC. These results demonstrate anti-inflammatory mechanisms of isosorbide fatty acid diesters in AD-like skin models. Our findings highlight the multifunctional potential of plant oil derivatives as topical ingredients and support studies of IDL and IDC as therapeutic candidates.

A Green Tea Containing Skincare System Improves Skin Health and Beauty in Adults: An Exploratory Controlled Clinical Study

Skin dryness, fine lines and wrinkles, red spots, red vasculature, and porphyrin count are common indicators of skin health and beauty. The skincare system in this study contains scientifically validated ingredients such as fermented green tea (Camellia sinensis) water, niacinamide, antioxidants, and a variety of natural plant extracts. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effectiveness of this skincare system in improving facial-skin health and beauty. Twenty-six healthy adults, both female and male, aged 18–54 and of all skin types and tones, were included in the study and participated as either the active or the control group (competitor product) using designated topical products for 30 days. Skin moisture, fine lines and wrinkles, porphyrin count, red spots, and red vasculature count were measured through high-quality photography, Visia® complexion analysis, FitSkin® skin analysis, and survey questions on day 0, day 8, and day 30. Significant improvements were observed in facial moisture, red-spot count, red vasculature count, and porphyrin count on day 30 in comparison with the control group. Non-significant improvements were observed in pores, skin texture, and wrinkles. With extensive well-documented functional ingredients, the studied skincare system used daily may significantly improve key areas of skin health and beauty.