Phycocosmetics and Other Marine Cosmetics, Specific Cosmetics Formulated Using Marine Resources

Pickering emulsions with high ionic strength resistance stabilized by pea protein isolate-polyglycerol conjugate particles with good biocompatibility

Among various biopolymers, protein particles are widely used for stabilizing Pickering emulsions, yet their emulsifying ability are easily influenced by the ion concentration, pH, and high temperatures. To address these challenges, this study utilized chemical modification to prepare pea protein isolate-polyglycerol (PPI-PG) conjugates by Schiff-base reaction. Compared with other chemical modifications, this method produces conjugate particles with excellent biocompatibility, capable of promoting cell proliferation by up to 177 %. These conjugates showed improved dispersibility, with diffusion coefficients 3.5 times greater than pure PPI, and the isoelectric points shift from pH 4.6 to pH 1.5, which contribute to the pH stability of emulsions (pH 3-9). Additionally, the anisotropic nature of the conjugate particles, with a three-phase contact angle close to 90°, make particles need more energy for detachment from the oil-water interface, leading to good thermal stability of emulsion (80 °C, 48 h). Notably, after conjugation, these particles rely more on PG chains for dispersibility, which are less affected by ions, resulting in emulsions with high ionic strength resistance (3000 mM). Furthermore, the prepared Pickering emulsion demonstrates remarkable antioxidative properties (only a 10 % decrease), indicating widely potential applications in food, cosmetics, and pharmaceutical sectors.

Exploring the Potential of Using Marine-Derived Ingredients: From the Extraction to Cutting-Edge Cosmetics

The growing understanding and knowledge of the potential of marine species, as well as the application of "blue biotechnology" have been motivating new innovative solutions in cosmetics. It is widely noted that that marine species are important sources of compounds with several biological activities that are yet to be discovered. This review explores various biological properties of marine-derived molecules and briefly outlines the main extraction methods. Alongside these, it is well known the legislative and normative framework of cosmetics is increasingly being developed. In this research segment, there is a growing concern with sustainability. In this sense, "blue biotechnology", together with the use of invasive species or marine waste products to obtain new active ingredients, haven been emerging as innovative and sustainable solutions for the future's cosmetics industry. This review also examines the regulatory framework and focus on the recent advancements in "blue biotechnology" and its relevance to the sustainable development of innovative cosmetics.

The Potential of Algae in the Nutricosmetic Sector

Seaweeds or algae are marine autotrophic organisms. They produce nutrients (e.g., proteins, carbohydrates, etc.) essential for the survival of living organisms as they participate in biochemical processes and non-nutritive molecules (such as dietary fibers and secondary metabolites), which can improve their physiological functions. Seaweed polysaccharides, fatty acids, peptides, terpenoids, pigments, and polyphenols have biological properties that can be used to develop food supplements and nutricosmetic products as they can act as antibacterial, antiviral, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory compounds. This review examines the (primary and secondary) metabolites produced by algae, the most recent evidence of their effect on human health conditions, with particular attention to what concerns the skin and hair's well-being. It also evaluates the industrial potential of recovering these metabolites from biomass produced by algae used to clean wastewater. The results demonstrate that algae can be considered a natural source of bioactive molecules for well-being formulations. The primary and secondary metabolites' upcycling can be an exciting opportunity to safeguard the planet (promoting a circular economy) and, at the same time, obtain low-cost bioactive molecules for the food, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical industries from low-cost, raw, and renewable materials. Today's lack of methodologies for recovering bioactive molecules in large-scale processes limits practical realization.

An overview on the nutritional and bioactive components of green seaweeds

Green seaweed, as the most abundant species of macroseaweeds, is an important marine biological resource. It is a rich source of several amino acids, fatty acids, and dietary fibers, as well as polysaccharides, polyphenols, pigments, and other active substances, which have crucial roles in various biological processes such as antioxidant activity, immunoregulation, and anti-inflammatory response. In recent years, attention to marine resources has accelerated the exploration and utilization of green seaweeds for greater economic value. This paper elaborates on the main nutrients and active substances present in different green seaweeds and provides a review of their biological activities and their applications for high-value utilization.

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Marine Natural Products as Innovative Cosmetic Ingredients

Over the course of the last 20 years, numerous studies have identified the benefits of an array of marine natural ingredients for cosmetic purposes, as they present unique characteristics not found in terrestrial organisms. Consequently, several marine-based ingredients and bioactive compounds are under development, used or considered for skin care and cosmetics. Despite the multitude of cosmetics based on marine sources, only a small proportion of their full potential has been exploited. Many cosmetic industries have turned their attention to the sea to obtain innovative marine-derived compounds for cosmetics, but further research is needed to determine and elucidate the benefits. This review gathers information on the main biological targets for cosmetic ingredients, different classes of marine natural products of interest for cosmetic applications, and the organisms from which such products can be sourced. Although organisms from different phyla present different and varied bioactivities, the algae phylum seems to be the most promising for cosmetic applications, presenting compounds of many classes. In fact, some of these compounds present higher bioactivities than their commercialized counterparts, demonstrating the potential presented by marine-derived compounds for cosmetic applications (i.e., Mycosporine-like amino acids and terpenoids’ antioxidant activity). This review also summarizes the major challenges and opportunities faced by marine-derived cosmetic ingredients to successfully reach the market. As a future perspective, we consider that fruitful cooperation among academics and cosmetic industries could lead to a more sustainable market through responsible sourcing of ingredients, implementing ecological manufacturing processes, and experimenting with inventive recycling and reuse programs.

Application of Marine Microbial Natural Products in Cosmetics

As the market size of the cosmetics industry increases, the safety and effectiveness of new products face higher requirements. The marine environment selects for species of micro-organisms with metabolic pathways and adaptation mechanisms different from those of terrestrial organisms, resulting in their natural products exhibiting unique structures, high diversity, and significant biological activities. Natural products are usually safe and non-polluting. Therefore, considerable effort has been devoted to searching for cosmetic ingredients that are effective, safe, and natural for marine micro-organisms. However, marine micro-organisms can be difficult, or impossible, to culture because of their special environmental requirements. Metagenomics technology can help to solve this problem. Moreover, using marine species to produce more green and environmentally friendly products through biotransformation has become a new choice for cosmetic manufacturers. In this study, the natural products of marine micro-organisms are reviewed and evaluated with respect to various cosmetic applications.

Occurrence of Marine Ingredients in Fragrance: Update on the State of Knowledge

The fragrance field of perfumes has attracted considerable scientific, industrial, cultural, and civilizational interest. The marine odor is characterized by the specific smell of sea breeze, seashore, algae, and oyster, among others. Marine odor is a more recent fragrance and is considered as one of the green and modern fragrances. The smells reproducing the marine environment are described due to their content of Calone 1951 (7-methyl-2H-1,5-benzodioxepin-3(4H)-one), which is a synthetic compound. In addition to the synthetic group of benzodioxepanes, such as Calone 51 and its derivatives, three other groups of chemical compounds seem to represent the marine smell. The first group includes the polyunsaturated cyclic ((+)-Dictyopterene A) and acyclic (giffordene) hydrocarbons, acting as pheromones. The second group corresponds to polyunsaturated aldehydes, such as the (Z,Z)-3,6-nonadienal, (E,Z)-2,6-nonadienal, which are most likely derived from the degradation of polyunsaturated fatty acids. The third group is represented by small molecules such as sulfur compounds and halogenated phenols which are regarded as the main flavor compounds of many types of seafood. This review exposes, most notably, the knowledge state on the occurrence of marine ingredients in fragrance. We also provide a detailed discussion on several aspects of essential oils, which are the most natural ingredients from various marine sources used in fragrance and cosmetics, including synthetic and natural marine ingredients.

Exploring the Potential of Icelandic Seaweeds Extracts Produced by Aqueous Pulsed Electric Fields-Assisted Extraction for Cosmetic Applications

A growing concern for overall health is driving a global market of natural ingredients not only in the food industry but also in the cosmetic field. In this study, a screening on potential cosmetic applications of aqueous extracts from three Icelandic seaweeds produced by pulsed electric fields (PEF) was performed. Produced extracts by PEF from Ulva lactuca, Alaria esculenta and Palmaria palmata were compared with the traditional hot water extraction in terms of polyphenol, flavonoid and carbohydrate content. Moreover, antioxidant properties and enzymatic inhibitory activities were evaluated by using in vitro assays. PEF exhibited similar results to the traditional method, showing several advantages such as its non-thermal nature and shorter extraction time. Amongst the three Icelandic species, Alaria esculenta showed the highest content of phenolic (mean value 8869.7 µg GAE/g dw) and flavonoid (mean value 12,098.7 µg QE/g dw) compounds, also exhibiting the highest antioxidant capacities. Moreover, Alaria esculenta extracts exhibited excellent anti-enzymatic activities (76.9, 72.8, 93.0 and 100% for collagenase, elastase, tyrosinase and hyaluronidase, respectively) for their use in skin whitening and anti-aging products. Thus, our preliminary study suggests that Icelandic Alaria esculenta-based extracts produced by PEF could be used as potential ingredients for natural cosmetic and cosmeceutical formulations.

R-Phycoerythrin from Colaconema formosanum (Rhodophyta), an Anti-Allergic and Collagen Promoting Material for Cosmeceuticals

R-phycoerythrin (R-PE), a pigment complex found in red algae, was extracted and purified from a newly identified red alga, Colaconema formosanum, and its bioactivities were examined. It was revealed that R-PE treatment resulted in high cell viability (>70%) to the mammalian cell lines NIH-3T3, RBL-2H3, RAW264.7, and Hs68, and had no effect on cell morphology in NIH-3T3 cells. Its suppression effect was insignificant on the production of IL-6 and TNF-α in lipopolysaccharides-stimulated RAW264.7 cells. However, calcium ionophore A23187-induced β-hexosaminidase release was effectively inhibited in a dose-dependent manner in RBL-2H3 cells. Additionally, it was revealed to be non-irritating to bionic epidermal tissues. Notably, procollagen production was promoted in Hs68 cells. Overall, the data revealed that R-PE purified from C. formosanum exhibits anti-allergic and anti-aging bioactivities with no observed consequential toxicity on multiple mammalian cell lines as well as epidermal tissues, suggesting that this macromolecule is a novel material for potential cosmetic use.

Applying Seaweed Compounds in Cosmetics, Cosmeceuticals and Nutricosmetics

The interest in seaweeds for cosmetic, cosmeceutics, and nutricosmetics is increasing based on the demand for natural ingredients. Seaweeds offer advantages in relation to their renewable character, wide distribution, and the richness and versatility of their valuable bioactive compounds, which can be used as ingredients, as additives, and as active agents in the formulation of skin care products. Bioactive compounds, such as polyphenols, polysaccharides, proteins, peptides, amino acids, lipids, vitamins, and minerals, are responsible for the biological properties associated with seaweeds. Seaweed fractions can also offer technical features, such as thickening, gelling, emulsifying, texturizing, or moistening to develop cohesive matrices. Furthermore, the possibility of valorizing industrial waste streams and algal blooms makes them an attractive, low cost, raw and renewable material. This review presents an updated summary of the activities of different seaweed compounds and fractions based on scientific and patent literature.

Sponges and Their Symbionts as a Source of Valuable Compounds in Cosmeceutical Field

In the last decades, the marine environment was discovered as a huge reservoir of novel bioactive compounds, useful for medicinal treatments improving human health and well-being. Among several marine organisms exhibiting biotechnological potential, sponges were highlighted as one of the most interesting phyla according to a wide literature describing new molecules every year. Not surprisingly, the first marine drugs approved for medical purposes were isolated from a marine sponge and are now used as anti-cancer and anti-viral agents. In most cases, experimental evidence reported that very often associated and/or symbiotic communities produced these bioactive compounds for a mutual benefit. Nowadays, beauty treatments are formulated taking advantage of the beneficial properties exerted by marine novel compounds. In fact, several biological activities suitable for cosmetic treatments were recorded, such as anti-oxidant, anti-aging, skin whitening, and emulsifying activities, among others. Here, we collected and discussed several scientific contributions reporting the cosmeceutical potential of marine sponge symbionts, which were exclusively represented by fungi and bacteria. Bioactive compounds specifically indicated as products of the sponge metabolism were also included. However, the origin of sponge metabolites is dubious, and the role of the associated biota cannot be excluded, considering that the isolation of symbionts represents a hard challenge due to their uncultivable features.

Lipids from Microalgae for Cosmetic Applications

In recent years, there has been considerable interest in using microalgal lipids in the food, chemical, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries. Several microalgal species can accumulate appreciable lipid quantities and therefore are characterized as oleaginous. In cosmetic formulations, lipids and their derivatives are one of the main ingredients. Different lipid classes are great moisturizing, emollient, and softening agents, work as surfactants and emulsifiers, give consistence to products, are color and fragrance carriers, act as preservatives to maintain products integrity, and can be part of the molecules delivery system. In the past, chemicals have been widely used but today’s market and customers’ demands are oriented towards natural products. Microalgae are an extraordinary source of lipids and other many bioactive molecules. Scientists’ attention to microalgae cultivation for their industrial application is increasing. For the high costs associated, commercialization of microalgae and their products is still not very widespread. The possibility to use biomass for various industrial purposes could make microalgae more economically competitive.

Sustainable Sources from Aquatic Organisms for Cosmeceuticals Ingredients

Long life expectancy of populations in the developing world together with some cultural and social issues has driven the need to pay special attention to health and physical appearance. Cosmeceuticals are gaining interest in the cosmetic industry as their uses fulfills a double purpose: the requirements of a cosmetic (clean, perfume, protect, change the appearance of the external parts of the body or keeping them in good condition) with a particular bioactivity function. The cosmetics industry, producing both cosmetics and cosmeceuticals, is currently facing numerous challenges to satisfy different attitudes of consumers (vegetarianism, veganism, cultural or religious concerns, health or safety reasons, eco-friendly process, etc.). A currently growing trend in the market is the interest in products of low environmental impact. Marine origin ingredients are increasingly being incorporated into cosmeceutical preparations because they are able to address several consumer requirements and also due to the wide range of bioactivities they present (antioxidant, whitening, anti-aging, etc.). Many companies claim “Marine” as a distinctive marketing signal; however, only a few indicate whether they use sustainable ingredient sources. Sustainable marine ingredients might be obtained using wild marine biomass through a sustainable extractive fishing activity; by adopting valorization strategies including the use of fish discards and fish by-products; and by sustainably farming and culturing marine organisms.

Seaweeds Compounds: An Ecosustainable Source of Cosmetic Ingredients?

Seaweed-based cosmetics are being gradually used by consumers as a substitute of synthetic equivalent products. These seaweed-based products normally contain purified compounds or extracts with several compounds. Several seaweeds’ molecules already demonstrated a high potential as a cosmetic active ingredient (such as, mycosporine-like amino acids, fucoidan, pigments, phenolic compounds) or as a key element for the products consistency (agar, alginate, carrageenan). Moreover, seaweeds’ compounds present important qualities for cosmetic application, such as low cytotoxicity and low allergens content. However, seaweeds’ biochemical profile can be variable, and the extraction methods can cause the loss of some of the biomolecules. This review gives a general look at the seaweed cosmetics benefits and its current application in the cosmetic industry. Moreover, it focuses on the ecological and sustainable scope of seaweed exploitation to guarantee a safe source of ingredients for the cosmetic industry and consumers.

Mycosporine-Like Amino Acids (MAAs): Biology, Chemistry and Identification Features

Mycosporines and mycosporine-like amino acids are ultra-violet-absorbing compounds produced by several organisms such as lichens, fungi, algae and cyanobacteria, especially upon exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation. These compounds have photoprotective and antioxidant functions. Mycosporine-like amino acids have been used as a natural bioactive ingredient in cosmetic products. Several reviews have already been developed on these photoprotective compounds, but they focus on specific features. Herein, an extremely complete database on mycosporines and mycosporine-like amino acids, covering the whole class of these natural sunscreen compounds known to date, is presented. Currently, this database has 74 compounds and provides information about the chemistry, absorption maxima, protonated mass, fragments and molecular structure of these UV-absorbing compounds as well as their presence in organisms. This platform completes the previous reviews and is available online for free and in the public domain. This database is a useful tool for natural product data mining, dereplication studies, research working in the field of UV-absorbing compounds mycosporines and being integrated in mass spectrometry library software.

Mud therapy and rehabilitation - scientific relevance in the last six years (2015 – 2020) Systematic literature review and meta-analysis based on the PRISMA paradigm

Abstract Background. Balneotherapy is a stimulation - adaptation treatment method applied in the forms of bathing, drinking, and inhalation cures performed with natural therapeutic factors, a method which is acting in three main ways: thermally, mechanically, and chemically. Mud or peloids are natural therapeutic factors formed by natural processes under the influence of biological and geological phenomena, which in a finely dissolved state and mixed with water (mud) are used in medical practice in the form of baths or local procedures. Objective. This systematic review aims to rigorously select related articles and identify within their content, the main possible uses of therapeutic mud and physiological mechanisms, to see the main region of scientific interest for pelotherapy, and to discuss the value of mud therapy in rehabilitation medicine. Methods. The working method is based on the Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Reviews and Meta-Analyses (PRISMA) guidelines. We searched for open-access articles published in English, between January 2015 and December 2020, from the following databases: Cochrane, Elsevier, NCBI/PubMed, NCBI/PMC, PEDro, and ISI Web of Knowledge/Science (the latter was also used to identify ISI indexed articles). The contextually searched syntax used was ”Pelotherapy/Peloidotherapy/Mud-therapy/ /Fango-therapy AND Rehabilitation”. The selected articles were analyzed in detail regarding pathologies addressed by mud therapy and country scientific relevance for this therapeutic method. The meta-analysis proceeded was designated to estimate the prevalence of various pathologies in the use of mud therapy. Results. Our search identified, first, 394 articles. Based on the successive filtering stages and, respectively, on the classification criteria of the Physiotherapy Evidence Database (PEDro), we finally identified/retained and analyzed 68 articles. Although, in principle, a rigorous method – and we have followed the PRISMA type paradigm – there still might be some missing works of our related article selection. On the other hand, to augment/ consolidate our documentation base, we have used also 40 papers freely found in the literature, and even – aiming, too, at an as exhaustive knowledge underpinning as possible – derogatively, we have also considered some articles which, probably being very new, couldn't yet have reached the PEDro threshold score we have settled. Conclusions. This paper overviews the current state-of-the-art knowledge in the approach of peloidotherapy in rehabilitation, with a focal point on the therapeutic properties of peloids. Keywords: mud-therapy, pelotherapy, peloidotherapy, fango therapy, rehabilitation, balneotherapy, natural therapeutic factors,