Discovery of Novel UV-Filters with Favorable Safety Profiles in the 5-Arylideneimidazolidine-2,4-dione Derivatives Group

In vitro photoprotective efficacy and photostability of synthesized star-shaped ZnO nanoaggregates associated with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane

The heightened susceptibility to skin cancer correlates with exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, which can induce various cutaneous injuries. Inorganic UV filters, like zinc oxide (ZnO), are extensively utilized in sunscreens owing to their capacity to scatter and reflect UV radiation. The efficacy of inorganic UV filters can be augmented across a wider spectrum through synergistic combinations with other active compounds, such as organic UV filters. In this study, we synthesized and evaluated the in vitro effectiveness of star-shaped ZnO nanoaggregates. The samples were obtained employing a simple and greener precipitation method in an aqueous solution. The synthesized ZnO nanoaggregates were characterized through X-ray diffraction, UV/Vis spectroscopy, and transmission electron microscopy. The characterization suggests the aggregation of nanocrystals, with hexagonal wurtzite geometry, enabling the formation of star-shaped particles. The irregular (non-flat) surface and high surface area combined with light absorption in the UVA region make the material susceptible to the application of sun protection. Sunscreens formulated with the synthesized ZnOng in conjunction with ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate (EHMC) and/or butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDBM) were evaluated for in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) and critical wavelength (cλ) using diffuse reflectance spectrophotometry with an integrated sphere. Photostability assessments were also conducted using artificial UV radiation. Sunscreen formulations containing ZnOng in combination with EHMC and BMDBM exhibited a substantial increase in in vitro SPF, approximately 990 % (from SPF 26 to 285). Furthermore, the synthesized ZnOng demonstrated higher in vitro efficacy compared to commercial ZnO active ingredients. Although all samples experienced reductions in SPF values during the photostability assay, ZnOng + EHMC + BMDBM retained a broad-spectrum profile (SPF > 15 and cλ > 370 nm). Based on the distinctive properties and in vitro performance of star-shaped ZnOng, we propose that this synthesized inorganic UV filter could serve as an alternative for enhancing the SPF of sunscreen systems while reducing the concentrations of organic UV filters.

Discovery of (E)-3-(4-chlorophenyl)-N-(5-hydroxypentyl)acrylamide among N-substituted cinnamamide derivatives as a novel cosmetic ingredient for hyperpigmentation

Hyperpigmentation disorders may result from inappropriate melanin deposition and/or excessive melanin synthesis. They are classified mainly as aesthetic problems, but they can significantly affect human health by decreasing self-esteem. There are available only limited treatment options for hyperpigmentation disorder, among others, cosmetic products applied topically. Depigmenting ingredients were found to be ineffective and characterized by various side effects. As a result, many efforts are made to discover novel, potent, and safe melanogenesis inhibitors for possible use in topical cosmetic depigmenting formulations. Cinnamic acid derivatives constitute a widely tested group for that purpose. This article reports research in the group of N-alkyl cinnamamide derivatives (un)substituted in phenyl ring. Among tested series, (E)-3-(4-chlorophenyl)-N-(5-hydroxypentyl)acrylamide (compound 21) showed the most promising inhibitory properties in mushroom tyrosinase assay (IC50 = 36.98 ± 1.07 µM for monophenolase activity, IC50 = 146.71 ± 16.82 µM for diphenolase activity) and melanin production inhibition in B16F10 mouse melanoma cell line at concentration 6.25 µM resulting probably from decreasing of Tyr, Mitf, Tyrp-1, and Tyrp-2 genes expression. This compound also showed melanin production inhibitory properties in pigmented reconstructed human epidermis when used in 1 % and 2 % solutions in 50 % PEG400. In vitro evaluation of its safety profile showed no cytotoxicity to human keratinocytes HaCaT, human skin fibroblasts BJ, and human primary epidermal melanocytes HEMa, no mutagenicity in the Ames test, no genotoxicity in micronucleus test, no phototoxicity, as well as no skin irritation potential tested in PEG400 solution. This compound was also shown to penetrate across the epidermis to reach the possible site of action. The performed research led to classify (E)-3-(4-chlorophenyl)-N-(5-hydroxypentyl)acrylamide as a novel potential depigmenting cosmetic ingredient.

In vitro safety evaluation of (6-methoxy-9-oxo-9H-xanthen-2-yl)methyl (E)-3-(2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)acrylate (K-116) - the novel potential UV filter designed by means of a double chromophore strategy

The use of topical photoprotection is necessary to reduce adverse effects caused by excessive exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Despite the high standards set for UV filters, many of them may contribute to the occurrence of adverse effects. The newly synthesised compound K-116, the (E)-cinnamoyl xanthone derivative, could be an alternative. We conducted extended in vitro safety evaluation of compound K-116. The research included assessment of irritation potential on skin tissue, evaluation of penetration through the epidermis, and assessment of phototoxicity, and mutagenicity. Additionally, the eco-safety of compound K-116 was evaluated, including an examination of its degradation pathway in the Cunninghamella echinulata model, as well as in silico simulation of the toxicity of both the parent compound and its degradation products. The research showed that compound K-116 tested in future application conditions is deprived of skin irritant potential additionally it does not penetrate through the epidermis. Results showed that K-116 concentrate is not phototoxic and not mutagenic. The eco-safety studies showed that it undergoes biodegradation in 27% in Cunninghamella echinulata model. The parent compound and formed metabolite are less toxic than reference UV filters (octinoxate and octocrylene).

Evaluation of Two Novel Hydantoin Derivatives Using Reconstructed Human Skin Model EpiskinTM: Perspectives for Application as Potential Sunscreen Agents

This study aimed to assess two novel 5-arylideneimidazolidine-2,4-dione (hydantoin) derivatives (JH3 and JH10) demonstrating photoprotective activity using the reconstructed human skin model Episkin^TM. The skin permeability, irritation, and phototoxicity of the compounds was evaluated in vitro. Moreover, the in vitro genotoxicity and human metabolism of both compounds was studied. For skin permeation and irritation experiments, the test compounds were incorporated into a formulation. It was shown that JH3 and JH10 display no skin irritation and no phototoxicity. Both compounds did not markedly enhance the frequency of micronuclei in CHO-K1 cells in the micronucleus assay. Preliminary in vitro studies with liver microsomes demonstrated that hydrolysis appears to constitute their important metabolic pathway. Episkin^TM permeability experiments showed that JH3 permeability was lower than or close to currently used UV filters, whereas JH10 had the potential to permeate the skin. Therefore, a restriction of this compound permeability should be obtained by choosing the right vehicle or by optimizing it, which should be addressed in future studies.

UV Filters: Challenges and Prospects

The use of sunscreens is an established and recommended practice to protect skin from solar-induced damage. Around 30 UV filters can be used in sunscreen products in the European Union, which ought to follow the requirements of the regulation 1223/2009 to ensure their efficacy and safety for humans. Nevertheless, low photostability and putative toxicity for humans and environment have been reported for some UV filters. Particularly, the negative impact in marine organisms has recently raised concern on the scientific community. Therefore, it is important to develop new UV filters with improved safety profile and photostability. Over the last two decades, nearly 200 new compounds have revealed promising photoprotection properties. The explored compounds were obtained through different approaches, including exploration of natural sources, synthetic pathways, and nanotechnology. Almost 50 natural products and around 140 synthetic derivatives, such as benzimidazoles, benzotriazoles, hydroxycinnamic acids, xanthones, triazines, among others, have been studied aiming the discovery of novel, effective, and safer future photoprotective agents. Herein, we provide the reader with an overview about UV filters’ challenges and prospects, offering a forward-looking to the next-generation of UV filters.

(+)-Usnic Acid as a Promising Candidate for a Safe and Stable Topical Photoprotective Agent

The study aimed to examine whether usnic acid—a lichen compound with UV-absorbing properties—can be considered as a prospective photoprotective agent in cosmetic products. Moreover, a comparison of two usnic acid enantiomers was performed to preselect the more effective compound. To meet this aim, an in vitro model was created, comprising the determination of skin-penetrating properties via skin-PAMPA assay, safety assessment to normal human skin cells (keratinocytes, melanocytes, fibroblasts), and examination of photostability and photoprotective properties. Both enantiomers revealed comparable good skin-penetrating properties. Left-handed usnic acid was slightly more toxic to keratinocytes (IC₅₀ 80.82 and 40.12 µg/mL, after 48 and 72 h, respectively) than its right-handed counterpart. The latter enantiomer, in a cosmetic formulation, was characterized by good photoprotective properties and photostability, comparable to the UV filter octocrylene. Perhaps most interestingly, (+)-usnic acid combined with octocrylene in one formulation revealed enhanced photoprotection and photostability. Thus, the strategy can be considered for the potential use of (+)-usnic acid as a UV filter in cosmetic products. Moreover, the proposed model may be useful for the evaluation of candidates for UV filters.

Effects of UV-filter Photostabilizers in the Photostability and Phototoxicity of Vitamin A Palmitate Combined with Avobenzone and Octyl Methoxycinnamate

A challenge for cosmetic and dermatologic products is to develop new high-performance and safer anti-aging products based on new compounds to enhance the stability of retinyl palmitate combined with broad-spectrum UV-filters. Consequently, the aim of this work was to evaluate the effects of three often used avobenzone photostabilizers-ethylhexyl methoxycrylene (EHMCR), tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate (TTMHP) and tris-biphenyl triazine (TBPT)-on the photostability and phototoxicity of the combination of avobenzone (AVO), octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) and retinyl palmitate (RP). The photostability studies were performed by the exposure of formulations to UVA radiation. The phototoxicity was evaluated by the 3T3 neutral red uptake phototoxic assay (OECD TG 432). The addition of EHMCR, TBPT, and TTMHP in the formulations, with/or without RP, improved the photostability of AVO and RP, but EHMCR was the most effective in stabilizing RP. In the phototoxicity assay, the combinations AVO-OMC containing or not RP showed phototoxic potential. EHMCR and TTMHP reduced the phototoxicity of the combination AVO-OMC, whereas EHMCR also decreased the phototoxicity of the combination containing RP. Therefore, EHMCR might be used to the photostabilization of formulations of AVO-OMC with/or not RP, while TTMHP can be added to this photounstable UV-filter combination.

The Involvement of Xanthone and (E)-Cinnamoyl Chromophores for the Design and Synthesis of Novel Sunscreening Agents

Excessive UV exposure contributes to several pathological conditions like skin burns, erythema, premature skin aging, photodermatoses, immunosuppression, and skin carcinogenesis. Effective protection from UV radiation may be achieved with the use of sunscreens containing UV filters. Currently used UV filters are characterized by some limitations including systemic absorption, endocrine disruption, skin allergy induction, and cytotoxicity. In the research centers all over the world new molecules are developed to improve the safety, photostability, solubility, and absorption profile of new derivatives. In our study, we designed and synthesized seventeen novel molecules by combining in the structures two chromophores: xanthone and (E)-cinnamoyl moiety. The ultraviolet spectroscopic properties of the tested compounds were confirmed in chloroform solutions. They acted as UVB or UVA/UVB absorbers. The most promising compound 9 (6-methoxy-9-oxo-9H-xanthen-2-yl)methyl (E)-3-(2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)acrylate) absorbed UV radiation in the range 290-369 nm. Its photoprotective activity and functional photostability were further evaluated after wet milling and incorporation in the cream base. This tested formulation with compound 9 possessed very beneficial UV protection parameters (SPFin vitro of 19.69 ± 0.46 and UVA PF of 12.64 ± 0.32) which were similar as broad-spectrum UV filter tris-biphenyl triazine. Additionally, compound 9 was characterized by high values of critical wavelength (381 nm) and UVA/UVB ratio (0.830) thus it was a good candidate for broad-spectrum UV filter and it might protect skin against UVA-induced photoaging. Compound 9 were also shown to be photostable, non-cytotoxic at concentrations up to 50 µM when tested on five cell lines, and non-mutagenic in Ames test. It also possessed no estrogenic activity, according to the results of MCF-7 breast cancer model. Additionally, its favorable lipophilicity (miLogP = 5.62) does not predispose it to penetrate across the skin after topical application.