The Potential of Caffeic Acid Lipid Nanoparticulate Systems for Skin Application: In Vitro Assays to Assess Delivery and Antioxidant Effect

Encapsulation of phenolic acids within food-grade carriers systems: a systematic review

Phenolic acids are natural compounds with potential therapeutic effects against various diseases. However, their incorporation into food and pharmaceutical products is limited by challenges such as instability, low solubility, and reduced bioavailability. This systematic review summarizes recent advances in phenolic acid encapsulation using food-grade carrier systems, focusing on proteins, lipids, and polysaccharides. Encapsulation efficiency, release behavior, and bioavailability are examined, as well as the potential health benefits of encapsulated phenolic acids in food products. Strategies to address limitations of current encapsulation systems are also proposed. Encapsulation has emerged as a promising method to enhance the stability and bioavailability of phenolic acids in food products, and various encapsulation technologies have been developed for this purpose. The use of proteins, lipids, and carbohydrates as carriers in food-grade encapsulation systems remains a common approach, but it is associated with certain limitations. Future research on phenolic acid encapsulation should focus on developing environmentally friendly, organic solvent-free, low-energy, scalable, and stable encapsulation systems, as well as co-encapsulation methods that combine multiple phenolic acids or phenolic acids with other bioactive substances to produce synergistic effects.

Characterization Methods for Nanoparticle-Skin Interactions: An Overview

Research progresses have led to the development of different kinds of nanoplatforms to deliver drugs through different biological membranes. Particularly, nanocarriers represent a precious means to treat skin pathologies, due to their capability to solubilize lipophilic and hydrophilic drugs, to control their release, and to promote their permeation through the stratum corneum barrier. A crucial point in the development of nano-delivery systems relies on their characterization, as well as in the assessment of their interaction with tissues, in order to predict their fate under in vivo administration. The size of nanoparticles, their shape, and the type of matrix can influence their biodistribution inside the skin strata and their cellular uptake. In this respect, an overview of some characterization methods employed to investigate nanoparticles intended for topical administration is presented here, namely dynamic light scattering, zeta potential, scanning and transmission electron microscopy, X-ray diffraction, atomic force microscopy, Fourier transform infrared and Raman spectroscopy. In addition, the main fluorescence methods employed to detect the in vitro nanoparticles interaction with skin cell lines, such as fluorescence-activated cell sorting or confocal imaging, are described, considering different examples of applications. Finally, recent studies on the techniques employed to determine the nanoparticle presence in the skin by ex vivo and in vivo models are reported.

Novel anti-psoriatic nanostructured lipid carriers for the cutaneous delivery of luteolin: A comprehensive in-vitro and in-vivo evaluation

Psoriasis is a prevalent laborious inflammation in skin with alternate phases of remission and relapses. The current study sought to develop nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) having enhanced skin deposition as well as augmented anti-inflammatory potential, to repurpose the use of luteolin (Lut), a flavonoid, in the treatment of psoriasis. NLCs were prepared using different oils having reported anti-inflammatory activity and evaluated in terms of size, surface charge, entrapment efficiency, stability upon storage, in-vitro anti-inflammatory potential, surface morphology, in-vitro release profile and release kinetics, and ex-vivo skin deposition. In-vivo animal studies were conducted on the optimized formula using imiquimod-induced psoriasis rat model. The prepared NLCs were nanosized ranging from 202 to 538 nm, negatively charged with values having the range of -13.10 to -19.26 mV with high entrapment efficiency values ranging from 84.21 to 96.53% and high in-vitro anti-inflammatory potential compared to the blank and control formulations. Furthermore, NLCs demonstrated adequate storage stability demonstrated by slightly significant change in their colloidal properties. The prepared nanoparticles exhibited sustained drug release up to 24 h and succeeded in enhancing the skin deposition of Lut by 3.4-fold higher in stratum corneum, epidermis and dermis compared to Lut suspension with minimum transdermal delivery. In-vivo assessment of psoriasis was carried out morphologically, histopathologically and biochemically and results revealed significant augmentation of the anti-psoriatic efficacy of Lut upon its encapsulation in NLCs compared to free Lut suspension. The developed system proved to be an influential drug delivery system providing potent anti-psoriatic therapy, paving the way for futuristic clinical investigations.

Recent advances in lipid nanovesicles for targeted treatment of spinal cord injury

The effective regeneration and functional restoration of damaged spinal cord tissue have been a long-standing concern in regenerative medicine. Treatment of spinal cord injury (SCI) is challenging due to the obstruction of the blood-spinal cord barrier (BSCB), the lack of targeting of drugs, and the complex pathophysiology of injury sites. Lipid nanovesicles, including cell-derived nanovesicles and synthetic lipid nanovesicles, are highly biocompatible and can penetrate BSCB, and are therefore effective delivery systems for targeted treatment of SCI. We summarize the progress of lipid nanovesicles for the targeted treatment of SCI, discuss their advantages and challenges, and provide a perspective on the application of lipid nanovesicles for SCI treatment. Although most of the lipid nanovesicle-based therapy of SCI is still in preclinical studies, this low immunogenicity, low toxicity, and highly engineerable nanovesicles will hold great promise for future spinal cord injury treatments.

Anti-inflammatory activities of flavonoid derivates

Background and purpose

Flavonoids are a group of phytochemicals found abundantly in various plants. Scientific evidence has revealed that flavonoids display potential biological activities, including their ability to alleviate inflammation. This activity is closely related to their action in blocking the inflammatory cascade and inhibiting the production of pro-inflammatory factors. However, as flavonoids typically have poor bioavailability and pharmacokinetic profile, it is quite challenging to establish these compounds as a drug. Nevertheless, progressive advancements in drug delivery systems, particularly in nanotechnology, have shown promising approaches to overcome such challenges.

Review approach

This narrative review provides an overview of scientific knowledge about the mechanism of action of flavonoids in the mitigation of inflammatory reaction prior to delivering a comprehensive discussion about the opportunity of the nanotechnology-based delivery system in the preparation of the flavonoid-based drug.

Key results

Various studies conducted in silico, in vitro, in vivo, and clinical trials have deciphered that the anti-inflammatory activities of flavonoids are closely linked to their ability to modulate various biochemical mediators, enzymes, and signalling pathways involved in the inflammatory processes. This compound could be encapsulated in nanotechnology platforms to increase the solubility, bioavailability, and pharmacological activity of flavonoids as well as reduce the toxic effects of these compounds.

Conclusion

In Summary, we conclude that flavonoids and their derivates have given promising results in their development as new anti-inflammatory drug candidates, especially if they formulate in nanoparticles.

A comparative study between two carboxymethylated polysaccharides/protein electrostatic and cross-linked nanogels constructed for caffeic acid and eugenol delivery

In response to the pressing demand for functional nanomaterials synthesis and applications, two polyelectrolyte complexes (PECs) [electrostatic and cross-linked nanogels (NGs)] loaded individually with caffeic acid (CafA) and eugenol (Eug) demonstrating multifunctionalities were proposed for the first time. Curdlan (Curd) and glucomannan (GM) were carboxymethylated (CMCurd and CMGM) successfully and polymeric ratios of 1:1 and 4:1 (v/v) for chitosan (Cs): CMCurd and lactoferrin (Lf): CMGM were selected for the synthesis of Cs/CMCurd and Lf/CMGM NGs. Due to the use of EDC/NHS, Cs/CMCurd/CafA and Lf/CMGM/Eug NGs possessed very uniform particles sizes of 177 ± 18 and 230 ± 17 nm with marked encapsulation efficiencies (EEs) of 76 ± 4 and 88 ± 3 %, respectively. The formation of a carbonyl-amide linkage in both cross-linked NGs was confirmed by FTIR. It should be noted, the self-assembly was not reliable in retaining enough of the encapsulated compounds. Owing to the excellent physicochemical characteristics of the loaded cross-linked NGs, they were prioritized over the electrostatic ones. Both Cs/CMCurd/CafA and Lf/CMGM/Eug NGs exhibited high colloidal stability over 12 weeks, elevated hemocompatibility, and in vitro serum stability. The generated NGs were also tailored to possess controlled release profiles for CafA and Eug over 72 h. Cs/CMCurd/CafA and Lf/CMGM/Eug NGs had promising antioxidant efficacies and could remarkably inhibit 4 bacterial pathogens at low 2-16 μg/mL concentration of encapsulated NGs compared to their unencapsulated counterparts. Interestingly, the respective NGs could significantly decline the IC₅₀ against colorectal cancer HCT-116 than conventional drugs. Based on these data, it was conferred that the investigated NGs could be promising candidates for functional foods and pharmaceutics.

Caffeic Acid-Zinc Basic Salt/Chitosan Nanohybrid Possesses Controlled Release Properties and Exhibits In Vivo Anti-Inflammatory Activities

Caffeic acid (CA) exhibits a myriad of biological activities including cardioprotective action, antioxidant, antitumor, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. On the other hand, CA presents low water solubility and poor bioavailability, which have limited its use for therapeutic applications. The objective of this study was to develop a nanohybrid of zinc basic salts (ZBS) and chitosan (Ch) containing CA (ZBS-CA/Ch) and evaluate its anti-edematogenic and antioxidant activity in dextran and carrageenan-induced paw edema model. The samples were obtained by coprecipitation method and characterized by X-ray diffraction, Fourier transform infrared (FT-IR), scanning electron microscope (SEM) and UV-visible spectroscopy. The release of caffeate anions from ZBS-CA and ZBS-CA/Ch is pH-dependent and is explained by a pseudo-second order kinetics model, with a linear correlation coefficient of R² ≥ 0.99 at pH 4.8 and 7.4. The in vivo pharmacological assays showed excellent anti-edematogenic and antioxidant action of the ZBS-CA/Ch nanoparticle with slowly releases of caffeate anions in the tissue, leading to a prolongation of CA-induced anti-edematogenic and anti-inflammatory activities, as well as improving its inhibition or sequestration antioxidant action toward reactive species. Overall, this study highlighted the importance of ZBS-CA/Ch as an optimal drug carrier.

Screening of the Anti-Neurodegenerative Activity of Caffeic Acid after Introduction into Inorganic Metal Delivery Systems to Increase Its Solubility as the Result of a Mechanosynthetic Approach

The proven anti-neurodegenerative properties of caffeic acid in vivo are limited due to its poor solubility, which limits bioavailability. Therefore, caffeic acid delivery systems have been developed to improve caffeic acid solubility. Solid dispersions of caffeic acid and magnesium aluminometasilicate (Neusilin US2-Neu) were prepared using the ball milling and freeze-drying techniques. The solid dispersions of caffeic acid:Neu obtained by ball milling in a 1:1 mass ratio turned out to be the most effective. The identity of the studied system in comparison to the physical mixture was confirmed using the X-Ray Powder Diffractionand Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy techniques. For caffeic acid with improved solubility, screening tests were carried out to assess its anti-neurodegenerative effect. The obtained results on the inhibition of acetylcholinesterase, butyrylcholinesterase, tyrosinase, and antioxidant potential provide evidence for improvement of caffeic acid's anti-neurodegenerative activity. As a result of in silico studies, we estimated which caffeic acid domains were involved in interactions with enzymes showing expression relevant to the neuroprotective activity. Importantly, the confirmed improvement in permeability of the soluble version of caffeic acid through membranes simulating the walls of the gastrointestinal tract and blood-brain barrier further strengthen the credibility of the results of in vivo anti-neurodegenerative screening tests.

Promising Bioactivity of Vitamin B1-Au Nanocluster: Structure, Enhanced Antioxidant Behavior, and Serum Protein Interaction

In the current work, we first present a simple synthesis method for the preparation of novel Vitamin-B1-stabilized few-atomic gold nanoclusters with few atomic layers. The formed nanostructure contains ca. eight Au atoms and shows intensive blue emissions at 450 nm. The absolute quantum yield is 3%. The average lifetime is in the nanosecond range and three main components are separated and assigned to the metal–metal and ligand–metal charge transfers. Based on the structural characterization, the formed clusters contain Au in zero oxidation state, and Vitamin B1 stabilizes the metal cores via the coordination of pyrimidine-N. The antioxidant property of the Au nanoclusters is more prominent than that of the pure Vitamin B1, which is confirmed by two different colorimetric assays. For the investigation into their potential bioactivity, interactions with bovine serum albumin were carried out and quantified. The determined stoichiometry indicates a self-catalyzed binding, which is almost the same value based on the fluorometric and calorimetric measurements. The calculated thermodynamic parameters verify the spontaneous bond of the clusters along the protein chain by hydrogen bonds and electrostatic interactions.

Enhanced biocompatibility of silk sericin/caffeic acid nanoparticles by red blood cell membranes cloaking

Caffeic acid (CA) is an antioxidant phenolic compound that enriched in coffee beans, however, its administration often restrains by the instability and low solubility. Nanoparticle encapsulation is an effective approach to improve the therapeutic activity of CA. For example, silk sericin (SS), a natural biomaterial finds applications in food, cosmetics and biomedical fields, is proved here to be an appropriate encapsulation agent for CA, and a SS/CA composite nanoparticle has been fabricated. To further improve the biocompatibility of SS/CA, a red blood cell membranes (RM) cloaking strategy is adopted. The as-formed SS/CA/RM preserves the antioxidant activity of CA, and shows satisfactory biocompatibility especially under high concentration. Hope this can provide a potential appropriative strategy to adjust the chemical stability of insoluble drugs and to improve their biocompatibility.

Nanobody-based magnetic chemiluminescence immunoassay for one-pot detection of ochratoxin A

Ochratoxin A (OTA) contamination seriously threatens food safety and human health and requires sensitive and rapid tools for monitoring. In this study, a convenient enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay based on Avi-labeled nanobody Nb-2G/streptavidin-alkaline phosphatase and magnetic beads (MBS-ELISA) was established for the sensitive detection of OTA, which could be used for one-pot detection without immobilization. After optimization, the 50% inhibitory concentration (IC50) and the lowest limit of detection value of the MBS-ELISA was 1.17 ng/mL and 0.07 ng/mL and the linear range was 248.8 pg/mL-5.28 ng/mL, respectively, which accords with state criteria for food safety. The developed one-step MBS-ELISA was almost 20-times more sensitive than the classic BA-ELISA and could generate results within 15 min, which was significantly less than the classic BA-ELISA at approximately 3 h. The MBS-ELISA indicated good recovery (86.4-114.3%) in spiked sorghum, buckwheat, and mung bean. Thus, MBS-ELISA represents a very promising strategy for the simple, rapid, and accurate detection of OTA and other toxic and hazardous contaminants.

Ex Vivo Evaluation of Ethosomes and Transethosomes Applied on Human Skin: A Comparative Study

In this study, the transdermal fate of vesicular nanosystems was investigated. Particularly, ethosomes based on phosphatidylcholine 0.9% w/w and transethosomes based on phosphatidylcholine 0.9 or 2.7% w/w plus polysorbate 80 0.3% w/w as an edge activator were prepared and characterized. The vesicle mean size, morphology and deformability were influenced by both phosphatidylcholine and polysorbate 80. Indeed, the mean diameters of ethosome were around 200 nm, while transethosome's mean diameters were 146 or 350 nm in the case of phosphatidylcholine 0.9 or 2.7%, w/w, respectively. The highest deformability was achieved by transethosomes based on phosphatidylcholine 0.9%, w/w. The three types of vesicular nanosystems were applied on explanted human skin maintained in a bioreactor. Transmission electron microscopy demonstrated that all vesicles were able to enter the skin, keeping their structural integrity. Notably, the vesicle penetration capability was influenced by their physical-chemical features. Indeed, ethosomes reached keratinocytes and even the dermis, phosphatidylcholine 0.9% transethosomes were found in keratinocytes and phosphatidylcholine 2.7% transethosomes were found only in corneocytes of the outer layer. These findings open interesting perspectives for a differentiated application of these vesicles for transdermal drug delivery as a function of the cutaneous pathology to be addressed.

Bioactive Compounds and Antioxidant Activity from Spent Coffee Grounds as a Powerful Approach for Its Valorization

Coffee is one of the world’s most popular beverages, and its consumption generates copious amounts of waste. The most relevant by-product of the coffee industry is the spent coffee grounds, with 6 million tons being produced worldwide per year. Although generally treated as waste, spent coffee grounds are a rich source of several bioactive compounds with applications in diverse industrial fields. The present work aimed at the analysis of spent coffee grounds from different geographical origins (Guatemala, Colombia, Brazil, Timor, and Ethiopia) for the identification of bioactive compounds with industrial interest. For this purpose, the identification and quantification of the bioactive compounds responsible for the antioxidant activity attributed to the spent coffee grounds were attempted using miniaturized solid-phase extraction (µ-SPEed), combined with ultrahigh-performance liquid chromatography with photodiode array detection (UHPLC-PDA). After validation of the µ-SPEed/UHPLC-PDA method, this allowed us to conclude that caffeine and 5-caffeoylquinic acid (5-CQA) are the most abundant bioactive compounds in all samples studied. The total phenolic content (TPC) and antioxidant activity are highest in Brazilian samples. The results obtained show that spent coffee grounds are a rich source of bioactive compounds, supporting its bioprospection based on the circular economy concept closing the loop of the coffee value chain, toward the valorization of coffee by-products.

Frontiers in Nanotoxicology

The Special Issue of Nanomaterials "Frontiers in Nanotoxicology" highlights the modern problems of nanotoxicology and nanobiomedicine, including the toxicity of metal-based, silicon-based, carbon-based, and other types of nanoparticles, occupational safety of nanoproduction workers, comprehensive assessment on new biomedical nanomaterials, improvement of nanotoxicology methods, as well as the current state and prospects of research in the fields of theoretical, experimental, and toxicological aspects of the prospective biomedical application of functionalized magnetic nanoparticles activated by a low-frequency non-heating alternating magnetic field, biomedical applications and the toxicity of graphene nanoribbons, and fetotoxicity of nanoparticles [...].

Extraction, Encapsulation into Lipid Vesicular Systems, and Biological Activity of Rosa canina L. Bioactive Compounds for Dermocosmetic Use

Valorization of wild plants to obtain botanical ingredients could be a strategy for sustainable production of cosmetics. This study aimed to select the rosehip extract containing the greatest amounts of bioactive compounds and to encapsulate it in vesicular systems capable of protecting their own antioxidant activity. Chemical analysis of Rosa canina L. extracts was performed by LC-DAD-MS/MS and ¹H-NMR and vitamins, phenolic compounds, sugars, and organic acids were detected as the main compounds of the extracts. Liposomes, prepared by the film hydration method, together with hyalurosomes and ethosomes, obtained by the ethanol injection method, were characterized in terms of vesicle size, polydispersity index, entrapment efficiency, zeta potential, in vitro release and biocompatibility on WS1 fibroblasts. Among all types of vesicular systems, ethosomes proved to be the most promising nanocarriers showing nanometric size (196 ± 1 nm), narrow polydispersity (0.20 ± 0.02), good entrapment efficiency (92.30 ± 0.02%), and negative zeta potential (−37.36 ± 0.55 mV). Moreover, ethosomes showed good stability over time, a slow release of polyphenols compared with free extract, and they were not cytotoxic. In conclusion, ethosomes could be innovative carriers for the encapsulation of rosehip extract.

Lipid-Based Nano-Sized Cargos as a Promising Strategy in Bone Complications: A Review

Bone metastasis has been considered the fatal phase of cancers, which remains incurable and to be a challenge due to the non-availability of the ideal treatment strategy. Unlike bone cancer, bone metastasis involves the spreading of the tumor cells to the bones from different origins. Bone metastasis generally originates from breast and prostate cancers. The possibility of bone metastasis is highly attributable to its physiological milieu susceptible to tumor growth. The treatment of bone-related diseases has multiple complications, including bone breakage, reduced quality of life, spinal cord or nerve compression, and pain. However, anticancer active agents have failed to maintain desired therapeutic concentrations at the target site; hence, uptake of the drug takes place at a non-target site responsible for the toxicity at the cellular level. Interestingly, lipid-based drug delivery systems have become the center of interest for researchers, thanks to their biocompatible and bio-mimetic nature. These systems possess a great potential to improve precise bone targeting without affecting healthy tissues. The lipid nano-sized systems are not only limited to delivering active agents but also genes/peptide sequences/siRNA, bisphosphonates, etc. Additionally, lipid coating of inorganic nanomaterials such as calcium phosphate is an effective approach against uncontrollable rapid precipitation resulting in reduced colloidal stability and dispersity. This review summarizes the numerous aspects, including development, design, possible applications, challenges, and future perspective of lipid nano-transporters, namely liposomes, exosomes, solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN), nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC), and lipid nanoparticulate gels to treat bone metastasis and induce bone regeneration. Additionally, the economic suitability of these systems has been discussed and different alternatives have been discussed. All in all, through this review we will try to understand how far nanomedicine is from clinical and industrial applications in bone metastasis.

Melissa officinalis: Composition, Pharmacological Effects and Derived Release Systems-A Review

Melissa officinalis is a medicinal plant rich in biologically active compounds which is used worldwide for its therapeutic effects. Chemical studies on its composition have shown that it contains mainly flavonoids, terpenoids, phenolic acids, tannins, and essential oil. The main active constituents of Melissa officinalis are volatile compounds (geranial, neral, citronellal and geraniol), triterpenes (ursolic acid and oleanolic acid), phenolic acids (rosmarinic acid, caffeic acid and chlorogenic acid), and flavonoids (quercetin, rhamnocitrin, and luteolin). According to the biological studies, the essential oil and extracts of Melissa officinalis have active compounds that determine many pharmacological effects with potential medical uses. A new field of research has led to the development of controlled release systems with active substances from plants. Therefore, the essential oil or extract of Melissa officinalis has become a major target to be incorporated into various controlled release systems which allow a sustained delivery.

Study for Evaluation of Hydrogels after the Incorporation of Liposomes Embedded with Caffeic Acid

Caffeic acid (CA), a phenolic acid, is a powerful antioxidant with proven effectiveness. CA instability gives it limited use, so encapsulation in polymeric nanomaterials has been used to solve the problem but also to obtain topical hydrogel formulas. Two different formulas of caffeic acid liposomes were incorporated into three different formulas of carbopol-based hydrogels. A Franz diffusion cell system was used to evaluate the release of CA from hydrogels. For the viscoelastic measurements of the hydrogels, the equilibrium flow test was used. The dynamic tests were examined at rest by three oscillating tests: the amplitude test, the frequency test and the flow and recovery test. These carbopol gels have a high elasticity at flow stress even at very low polymer concentrations. In the analysis of the texture, the increase of the polymer concentration from 0.5% to 1% determined a linear increase of the values of the textural parameters for hydrogels. The textural properties of 1% carbopol-based hydrogels were slightly affected by the addition of liposomal vesicle dispersion and the firmness and shear work increased with increasing carbomer concentration.

Development of Propolis (Apis trigona)-loaded Nanoemulgel for Improved Skin Penetration of Caffeic Acid: The Effect of Variation of Oleic Acid Concentration

BACKGROUND: Propolis contains caffeic acid compounds, which are proven to have pharmacological effects as an anti-inflammatory. However, its effectiveness is hampered by the poor solubility of caffeic acid. Here, we report developing the nanoemulgel approach containing propolis extract as an active ingredient and oleic acid as a permeation enhancer for transdermal delivery of caffeic acid. AIM: This study aims to determine the effect of oleic acid concentration on increasing caffeic acid permeation in the skin and obtain a nanoemulgel formula with desired physical characteristics and stability. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Propolis was macerated with 70% ethanol; the total phenolic content was measured by ultraviolet–visible spectrophotometer, and the levels of caffeic acid in the extracts and nanoemulgel preparations were finally determined using ultra-fast liquid chromatography. Formulas were made using various concentrations of oleic acid, namely, 1.25%w/w (Formula F1); 2.5%w/w (Formula F2); 5%w/w (Formula F3), respectively; and 1.25%w/w without propolis extract (Formula F4) as a comparison. RESULTS: The results obtained from analysis of variance statistical exhibited that the difference in oleic acid concentrations in four formulas significantly affected (p < 0.05) particle size, polydispersity index, spreadability, adhesion, freeze-thaw, permeation, and retention test. However, there was no significant difference (p > 0.05) on pH and viscosity before and after 4 weeks of storage and zeta potential test. The highest amount of permeation and retention was found in F3 and F2, respectively, and all formulas tended to follow zero-order drug release kinetics. Furthermore, the results showed that the number of percent’s permeated in a row was 3.74% (F1); 5.58% (F2); 11.67% (F3), and F2 was the formula with the most optimal retention amount with a percentage of 43.13% at 24 h. CONCLUSION: This study shows a promising delivery system for increasing the effectiveness of natural lipophilic compounds to treat inflammation in the skin.

The beauty of biocatalysis: sustainable synthesis of ingredients in cosmetics

Covering: 2015 up to July 2021The market for cosmetics is consumer driven and the desire for green, sustainable and natural ingredients is increasing. The use of isolated enzymes and whole-cell organisms to synthesise these products is congruent with these values, especially when combined with the use of renewable, recyclable or waste feedstocks. The literature of biocatalysis for the synthesis of ingredients in cosmetics in the past five years is herein reviewed.

Lipid-Based Nanosystems as a Tool to Overcome Skin Barrier

Skin may be affected by many disorders that can be treated by topical applications of drugs on the action site. With the advent of nanotechnologies, new efficient delivery systems have been developed. Particularly, lipid-based nanosystems such as liposomes, ethosomes, transferosomes, solid lipid nanoparticles, nanostructured lipid carriers, cubosomes, and monoolein aqueous dispersions have been proposed for cutaneous application, reaching in some cases the market or clinical trials. This review aims to provide an overview of the different lipid-based nanosystems, focusing on their use for topical application. Particularly, biocompatible nanosystems able to dissolve lipophilic compounds and to control the release of carried drug, possibly reducing side effects, are described. Notably, the rationale to topically administer antioxidant molecules by lipid nanocarriers is described. Indeed, the structural similarity between the nanosystem lipid matrix and the skin lipids allows the achievement of a transdermal effect. Surely, more research is required to better understand the mechanism of interaction between lipid-based nanosystems and skin. However, this attempt to summarize and highlight the possibilities offered by lipid-based nanosystems could help the scientific community to take advantage of the benefits derived from this kind of nanosystem.

"Plurethosome" as Vesicular System for Cutaneous Administration of Mangiferin: Formulative Study and 3D Skin Tissue Evaluation

Human skin is dramatically exposed to toxic pollutants such as ozone. To counteract the skin disorders induced by the air pollution, natural antioxidants such as mangiferin could be employed. A formulative study for the development of vesicular systems for mangiferin based on phosphatidylcholine and the block copolymer pluronic is described. Plurethosomes were designed for mangiferin transdermal administration and compared to ethosome and transethosome. Particularly, the effect of vesicle composition was investigated on size distribution, inner and outer morphology by photon correlation spectroscopy, small angle X-ray diffraction, and transmission electron microscopy. The potential of selected formulations as vehicles for mangiferin was studied, evaluating encapsulation efficiency and in vitro diffusion parameters by Franz cells. The mangiferin antioxidant capacity was verified by the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl assay. Vesicle size spanned between 200 and 550 nm, being influenced by phosphatidylcholine concentration and by the presence of polysorbate or pluronic. The vesicle supramolecular structure was multilamellar in the case of ethosome or plurethosome and unilamellar in the case of transethosome. A linear diffusion of mangiferin in the case of ethosome and transethosomes and a biphasic profile in the case of plurethosomes indicated the capability of multilamellar vesicles to retain the drug more efficaciously than the unilamellar ones. The antioxidant and anti-inflammatory potential effect of mangiferin against pollutants was evaluated on 3D human skin models exposed to O₃. The protective effect exerted by plurethosomes and transethosomes suggests their possible application to enhance the cutaneous antioxidant defense status.

Ethosomes and Transethosomes for Mangiferin Transdermal Delivery

Mangiferin is a natural glucosyl xanthone with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity, making it suitable for protection against cutaneous diseases. In this study ethosomes and transethosomes were designed as topical delivery systems for mangiferin. A preformulation study was conducted using different surfactants in association with phosphatidylcholine. Vesicle dimensional distribution was monitored by photon correlation spectroscopy, while antioxidant capacity and cytotoxicity were respectively assessed by free radical scavenging analysis and MTT on HaCaT keratinocytes. Selected nanosystems were further investigated by cryogenic transmission electron microscopy, while mangiferin entrapment capacity was evaluated by ultracentrifugation and HPLC. The diffusion kinetics of mangiferin from ethosomes and transethosomes evaluated by Franz cell was faster in the case of transethosomes. The suitability of mangiferin-containing nanovesicles in the treatment of skin disorders related to pollutants was investigated, evaluating, in vitro, the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect of ethosomes and transethosomes on human keratinocytes exposed to cigarette smoke as an oxidative and inflammatory challenger. The ability to induce an antioxidant response (HO-1) and anti-inflammatory status (IL-6 and NF-kB) was determined by RT-PCR and immunofluorescence. The data demonstrated the effectiveness of mangiferin loaded in nanosystems to protect cells from damage. Finally, to gain insight into the keratinocytes’ uptake of ethosome and transethosome, transmission electron microscopy analyses were conducted, showing that both nanosystems were able to pass intact within the cells.

Challenges in the Physical Characterization of Lipid Nanoparticles

Nano-sized drug transporters have become an efficient approach with considerable commercial values. Nanomedicine is not only limited to drug delivery by means of different administration routes, such as intravenous, oral, transdermal, nasal, pulmonary, and more, but also has applications in a multitude of areas, such as a vaccine, antibacterial, diagnostics and imaging, and gene delivery. This review will focus on lipid nanosystems with a wide range of applications, taking into consideration their composition, properties, and physical parameters. However, designing suitable protocol for the physical evaluation of nanoparticles is still conflicting. The main obstacle is concerning the sensitivity, reproducibility, and reliability of the adopted methodology. Some important techniques are compared and discussed in this report. Particularly, a comparison between different techniques involved in (a) the morphologic characterization, such as Cryo-TEM, SEM, and X-ray; (b) the size measurement, such as dynamic light scattering, sedimentation field flow fractionation, and optical microscopy; and (c) surface properties, namely zeta potential measurement, is described. In addition, an amperometric tool in order to investigate antioxidant activity and the response of nanomaterials towards the skin membrane has been presented.