Usage of Synthetic Peptides in Cosmetics for Sensitive Skin

Potential role of the cell-penetrating peptide-conjugated soluble N-ethylmaleimide-sensitive factor attachment protein receptor motif of vesicle-associated membrane protein 2-patterned peptide in novel cosmeceutical skin product development

AIM

This study aimed to investigate and verify the effect of cell-penetrating peptide (CPP)-conjugated soluble N-ethylmaleimide-sensitive factor attachment protein receptor (SNARE) motif of vesicle-associated membrane protein 2 (VAMP2)-patterned peptide (INCI name: Acetyl sh-Oligopeptide-26 sh-Oligopeptide-27 SP, trade name: M.Biome-BT) on improving skin function in vitro.

METHODS

The cytotoxicity of CPP-conjugated SNARE motif of VAMP2-patterned peptide (CVP) was investigated using the 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2yl)-2,5-diphenyl tetrazolium bromide (MTT) assay against B16-F10 cells and human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) and a reconstructed skin irritation test. The anti-wrinkle activity of M.Biome-BT was determined by assessing the release of norepinephrine and dopamine in PC-12 cells via ELISA. The skin-whitening effects of CVP were assessed in B16-F10 cells by measuring the intra- and extracellular melanin contents and expression levels of melanin production-related genes, such as microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase (TYR), tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1), and TRP-2.

RESULTS

CVP is not cytotoxic to B16-F10 cells and HDFs, and no skin irritation was observed. CVP treatment considerably diminished K+ -induced norepinephrine and dopamine secretion compared with the non-treated control group (62% and 40%, respectively). Additionally, the inhibition ability of CVP on norepinephrine and dopamine release was comparable to that of botulinum neurotoxin type A (BoNT/A). CVP also increased intracellular melanin content in a dose-dependent manner, whereas extracellular melanin content decreased (76%-85%). However, CVP treatment did not affect the mRNA expression of MITF, TYR, TRP-1, and TRP-2. These results suggest that CVP does not inhibit melanin production; however, it may induce a whitening effect by inhibiting melanin transport.

CONCLUSIONS

Taken together, our findings indicate that CVP could be used as an active and safe cosmeceutical ingredient for antiaging applications.

Effectiveness and tolerance of multicorrective topical treatment for infraorbital dark circles and puffiness

BACKGROUND

Treatment of infraorbital dark circles and under-eye puffiness is challenging due to its multifactorial nature and lack of broadly applicable, effective treatments. A daily skincare treatment option that is multimodal, effective, and tolerable across a broad patient population is an unmet need.

AIM

A multicorrective topical eye cream (MTEC) formulated with Tetrahexyldecyl (THD) ascorbate (vitamin C), prebiotic Inula Helenium, bioavailable peptides, botanical extracts, chrysin, and caffeine is hypothesized to improve the appearance of infraorbital dark circles and under-eye puffiness by targeting microvasculature congestion and permeability, melanin accumulation and hemoglobin degradation-related pigmentation, and skin health.

METHODS

An IRB approved, open-label, 12-week clinical study set out to evaluate the efficacy and tolerability of the MTEC across a broad patient population including varying ethnicities and Fitzpatrick Skin Types (FST). Female subjects (n = 40) ages 35-60 years old, with moderate-to-severe under-eye dark circles, moderate under-eye puffiness, and mild-to-moderate fine lines were enrolled into the study. Objective (Chromameter, VISIA® imaging, and Laser Doppler) and subjective assessments (clinical grading and self-assessment questionnaire) were conducted at baseline and post-baseline timepoints.

RESULTS

Thirty-seven subjects completed the study, and the MTEC efficaciously demonstrated short-term and long-term improvements in objective and subjective assessments across a broad patient population. Specifically, the MTEC demonstrated significant improvement of infraorbital dark circles, mainly by the reduction in microvasculature congestion and permeability, melanin, and hemoglobin degradation-related pigmentation.

CONCLUSION

Topical application of the MTEC may offer an effective and tolerable treatment option for infraorbital dark circles and puffiness.

Dipeptide-1 modified nanostructured lipid carrier-based hydrogel with enhanced skin retention and topical efficacy of curcumin

Topical administration of curcumin (CUR), a natural polyphenol with potent anti-inflammation and analgesic activities, provides a potential approach for local skin diseases. However, the drug delivery efficiency is highly limited by skin barriers and poor bioavailability of CUR. Herein, we propose hydrogel containing CUR-encapsulated dipeptide-1-modified nanostructured lipid carriers (CUR-DP-NLCs gel) to enhance topical drug delivery, and improve the topical therapeutic effect. The prepared CUR-DP-NLCs were characterized and were suitably dispersed into the Pluronic F127 hydrogel for topical application. The optimized CUR-DP-NLCs had a particle size of 152.6 ± 3.47 nm, a zeta potential of -33.1 ± 1.46 mV, an entrapment efficiency of 99.83 ± 0.14%, and a spherical morphology. X-ray diffraction (XRD) studies confirmed that CUR was successfully entrapped by the NLCs in an amorphous form. CUR-DP-NLCs gel exhibited sustained release over 48 h and significantly increased the skin retention of CUR. In vitro skin retention of CUR with CUR-DP-NLCs gel was 2.14 and 2.85 times higher than that of unmodified NLCs gel and free CUR, respectively. Fluorescence microscopy imaging revealed the formed nanoparticles accumulated in the hair follicles with prolonged retention time to form a drug reservoir. The hematoxylin-eosin staining showed that CUR-DP-NLCs gel could change the microstructure of skin layers and disturb the skin barriers. After topical administration to mice, CUR-DP-NLCs gel showed better analgesic and anti-inflammatory activities with no potentially hazardous skin irritation. These results concluded that CUR-DP-NLCs gel is a promising strategy to increase topical drug delivery of CUR in the treatment of local skin diseases.

Compatibility of Personalized Formulations in Cleoderm™, A Skin Rebalancing Cream Base for Oily and Sensitive Skin

Inflammatory skin conditions are prevalent in the general population and are a source of much concern for those who suffer from them. Acne is an extremely common condition and can significantly impact the quality of life of affected patients. Rosacea is another common dermatological disorder that often affects the face and can present with flushing, irritated skin, and pimples. In addition to being key for acne and rosacea, inflammation can also play a role in prematurely aging skin and contributes to the formation of wrinkles. Given the prevalence and patient impact of dermatological conditions on the face, such as those previously described, there is a demand for personalized medicines to manage these conditions when commercially available options are unsuitable, unavailable, or insufficient to fully resolve the condition. When designing an appropriate personalized therapy for a patient, both the vehicle and the active pharmaceutical ingredient choices are key to the success of the treatment. Cleoderm™ is a topical cream designed for use as a vehicle for the preparation of dermatological treatments by compounding pharmacies. Its ingredient profile was specifically curated to be gentle on the skin, allowing its use as a vehicle for compounded preparations that may be applied to sensitive and affected skin. In this bracketed study, benzoyl peroxide, cyproterone acetate, estriol, metronidazole, niacinamide, progesterone, retinoic acid, spironolactone, and tranexamic acid were selected, due to their known applications for dermatological skin conditions. To evaluate the compatibility and stability of Cleoderm™ in these formulations, high-performance liquid chromatography, followed by antimicrobial effectiveness testing, were performed for 180 days. For most formulations, a beyond-use date of 180 days was observed when stored at room temperature, except for retinoic acid, which had a beyond-use date of 30 days. Through the outcomes of this study, we concluded that Cleoderm™ presents increased convenience for both the compounding pharmacist and the patient, suggesting that it is an adequate candidate vehicle for compounding different dermatological formulations with adequate stability, presenting itself as a good alternative to commercially available treatments that cannot be personalized.

Occurrence of Allergens in Cosmetics for Sensitive Skin

Sensitive skin is characterized by symptoms such as stinging and tingling in response to stimuli that usually do not cause unpleasant sensations. Epidemiological studies show that individuals with sensitive skin are more prone to developing skin allergies, although the link between both conditions is unknown. Aiming to evaluate the presence of allergens in facial-skin products for sensitive skin, a pool of 88 cosmetic products from international brands marketed in pharmacies and parapharmacies was analyzed. A list of allergens identified in product labels was compiled and grouped according to their function. Fragrances were the most common allergens, followed by skin-conditioning agents, surfactants, and preservatives. Fragrances presenting the highest use percentages were linalool, benzyl alcohol, geraniol, and citronellol. Overall, the majority of cosmetic formulations were absent of fragrance allergens, being present only in 7% of products. Other allergens were found in most products (95%). This finding should be interpreted with caution, since many of these compounds are rare sensitizers and studies demonstrating their risk for individuals with sensitive skin are lacking. With this study, useful information for health professionals is provided to support their advice and to help consumers choosing cosmetic products.

Marine Ingredients for Sensitive Skin: Market Overview

Marine ingredients are a source of new chemical entities with biological action, which is the reason why they have gained relevance in the cosmetic industry. The facial care category is the most relevant in this industry, and within it, the sensitive skin segment occupies a prominent position. This work analyzed the use of marine ingredients in 88 facial cosmetics for sensitive skin from multinational brands, as well as their composition and the scientific evidence that supports their efficacy. Marine ingredients were used in 27% of the cosmetic products for sensitive skin and included the species Laminaria ochroleuca, Ascophyllum nodosum (brown macroalgae), Asparagopsis armata (red macroalgae), and Chlorella vulgaris (microalgae). Carotenoids, polysaccharides, and lipids are the chemical classes highlighted in these preparations. Two ingredients, namely the Ascophyllum nodosum extract and Asparagopsis armata extracts, present clinical evidence supporting their use for sensitive skin. Overall, marine ingredients used in cosmetics for sensitive skin are proposed to reduce skin inflammation and improve the barrier function. Marine-derived preparations constitute promising active ingredients for sensitive skin cosmetic products. Their in-depth study, focusing on the extracted metabolites, randomized placebo-controlled studies including volunteers with sensitive skin, and the use of extraction methods that are more profitable may provide a great opportunity for the cosmetic industry.