Anti-Aging Potential of Extracts from Washingtonia filifera Seeds

Plant Extracts as Skin Care and Therapeutic Agents

Natural ingredients have been used for centuries for skin treatment and care. Interest in the health effects of plants has recently increased due to their safety and applicability in the formulation of pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. Long-known plant materials as well as newly discovered ones are increasingly being used in natural products of plant origin. This review highlights the beneficial effects of plants and plant constituents on the skin, including moisturizing (e.g., Cannabis sativa, Hydrangea serrata, Pradosia mutisii and Carthamus tinctorius), anti-aging (e.g., Aegopodium podagraria, Euphorbia characias, Premna odorata and Warburgia salutaris), antimicrobial (e.g., Betula pendula and Epilobium angustifolium), antioxidant (e.g., Kadsura coccinea, Rosmarinus officinalis, Rubus idaeus and Spatholobus suberectus), anti-inflammatory (e.g., Antidesma thwaitesianum, Helianthus annuus, Oenanthe javanica, Penthorum chinense, Ranunculus bulumei and Zanthoxylum bungeanum), regenerative (e.g., Aloe vera, Angelica polymorpha, Digitaria ciliaris, Glycyrrihza glabra and Marantodes pumilum), wound healing (e.g., Agrimonia eupatoria, Astragalus floccosus, Bursera morelensis, Jatropha neopauciflora and Sapindus mukorossi), photoprotective (e.g., Astragalus gombiformis, Calea fruticose, Euphorbia characias and Posoqueria latifolia) and anti-tyrosinase activity (e.g., Aerva lanata, Bruguiera gymnorhiza, Dodonaea viscosa, Lonicera japonica and Schisandra chinensis), as well as their role as excipients in cosmetics (coloring (e.g., Beta vulgaris, Centaurea cyanus, Hibiscus sabdariffa and Rubia tinctiorum), protective and aromatic agents (e.g., Hyssopus officinalis, Melaleuca alternifolia, Pelargonium graveolens and Verbena officinalis)).

Antioxidant and in vitro cosmeceutical activities of chestnut inner shell fermented by Monascus kaoliang

Chestnut inner shell (CIS) was fermented at 30 °C for 12 day using Monascus kaoliang, either in solid or submerged state, and alcohol extracts (70% ethanol) of the fermented CIS were examined for their antioxidant (total phenol content and diphenylpicrylhydrazyl radical scavenging activity) and in vitro cosmeceutical activities (tyrosinase and elastase inhibitory activities). Both activities were significantly increased by the M. kaoliang-fermentation, more apparently by submerged fermentation (SMF) than by solid-state fermentation (SSF). The cosmeceutical activity reached its maximum value on the 3rd day of fermentation. The residual amounts of phenolic acids and catechins in the CIS extracts were increased by the fermentation, up to 395.0 and 344.3 µg/g, respectively. More phenolic acids were produced by SMF than SSF, whereas more catechins were produced by SSF than SMF. Therefore, SMF using M. kaoliang was an efficient process for the utilization of CIS as a source of cosmeceuticals.

Hydroxylated Coumarin-Based Thiosemicarbazones as Dual Antityrosinase and Antioxidant Agents

The design of novel antityrosinase agents appears extremely important in medical and industrial sectors because an irregular production of melanin is related to the insurgence of several skin-related disorders (e.g., melanoma) and the browning process of fruits and vegetables. Because melanogenesis also involves a nonenzymatic oxidative process, developing dual antioxidant and antityrosinase agents is advantageous. In this work, we evaluated the antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibition ability of two new bishydroxylated and two new monohydroxylated derivatives of (1E)-2-(1-(2-oxo-2H-chromen-3-yl)ethylidene)hydrazine-1-carbothioamide (T1) using different experimental and computational approaches. The study was also carried out on another monohydroxylated derivative of T1 for comparison. Interestingly, these molecules have more potent tyrosinase-inhibitory properties than the reference compound, kojic acid. Moreover, the antioxidant activity appears to be influenced according to the number and substitution pattern of the hydroxyl groups. The safety of the compounds without (T1), with one (T3), and with two (T6) hydroxyl groups, has also been assessed by studying their cytotoxicity on melanocytes. These results indicate that (1E)-2-(1-(2-oxo-2H-chromen-3-yl)ethylidene)hydrazine-1-carbothioamide and its hydroxylated derivatives are promising molecules for further drug development studies.

In Vitro and In Silico Pharmacological and Cosmeceutical Potential of Ten Essential Oils from Aromatic Medicinal Plants from the Mascarene Islands

In this study, 10 essential oils (EOs), from nine plants (Cinnamomum camphora, Curcuma longa, Citrus aurantium, Morinda citrifolia, Petroselinum crispum, Plectranthus amboinicus, Pittosporum senacia, Syzygium coriaceum, and Syzygium samarangense) were assessed for their antimicrobial, antiaging and antiproliferative properties. While only S. coriaceum, P. amboinicus (MIC: 0.50 mg/mL) and M. citrifolia (MIC: 2 mg/mL) EOs showed activity against Cutibacterium acnes, all EOs except S. samarangense EO demonstrated activity against Mycobacterium smegmatis (MIC: 0.125-0.50 mg/mL). The EOs were either fungistatic or fungicidal against one or both tested Candida species with minimum inhibitory/fungicidal concentrations of 0.016-32 mg/mL. The EOs also inhibited one or both key enzymes involved in skin aging, elastase and collagenase (IC₅₀: 89.22-459.2 µg/mL; 0.17-0.18 mg/mL, respectively). Turmerone, previously identified in the C. longa EO, showed the highest binding affinity with the enzymes (binding energy: -5.11 and -6.64 kcal/mol). Only C. aurantium leaf, C. longa, P. amboinicus, P. senacia, S. coriaceum, and S. samarangense EOs were cytotoxic to the human malignant melanoma cells, UCT-MEL1 (IC₅₀: 88.91-277.25 µg/mL). All the EOs, except M. citrifolia EO, were also cytotoxic to the human keratinocytes non-tumorigenic cells, HaCat (IC₅₀: 33.73-250.90 µg/mL). Altogether, some interesting therapeutic properties of the EOs of pharmacological/cosmeceutical interests were observed, which warrants further investigations.

Standardised Sonneratia apetala Buch.-Ham. fruit extract inhibits human neutrophil elastase and attenuates elastase-induced lung injury in mice

Chronic obstructive pulmonary disease (COPD) along with asthma is a major and increasing global health problem. Smoking contributes to about 80%-90% of total COPD cases in the world. COPD leads to the narrowing of small airways and destruction of lung tissue leading to emphysema primarily caused by neutrophil elastase. Neutrophil elastase plays an important role in disease progression in COPD patients and has emerged as an important target for drug discovery. Sonneratia apetala Buch.-Ham. is a mangrove plant belonging to family Sonneratiaceae. It is widely found in the Sundarban regions of India. While the fruits of this plant have antibacterial, antifungal, antioxidant and astringent activities, fruit and leaf extracts have been shown to reduce the symptoms of asthma and cough. The aim of this study is to find whether hydro alcoholic fruit extracts of S. apetala inhibit neutrophil elastase and thus prevent the progression of neutrophil elastase-driven lung emphysema. The hydroalcoholic extract, ethanol: water (90:10), of the S. apetala Buch.-Ham. fresh fruits (SAM) were used for neutrophil elastase enzyme kinetic assay and IC₅₀ of the extract was determined. The novel HPLC method has been developed and the extract was standardized with gallic acid and ellagic acid as standards. The extract was further subjected to LC-MS² profiling to identify key phytochemicals. The standardized SAM extract contains 53 μg/mg of gallic acid and 95 μg/mg of ellagic acid, based on the HPLC calibration curve. SAM also reversed the elastase-induced morphological change of human epithelial cells and prevented the release of ICAM-1 in vitro and an MTT assay was conducted to assess the viability. Further, 10 mg/kg SAM had reduced alveolar collapse induced by neutrophil elastase in the mice model. Thus, in this study, we reported for the first time that S. apetala fruit extract has the potential to inhibit human neutrophil elastase in vitro and in vivo.

Hydroxy-3-Phenylcoumarins as Multitarget Compounds for Skin Aging Diseases: Synthesis, Molecular Docking and Tyrosinase, Elastase, Collagenase and Hyaluronidase Inhibition, and Sun Protection Factor

Skin aging is a progressive biological process of the human body, and it is not only time-dependent. Differently substituted 3-phenylcoumarins proved to efficiently inhibit tyrosinase. In the current work, new substitution patterns have been explored, and the biological studies were extended to other important enzymes involved in the processes of skin aging, as elastase, collagenase and hyaluronidase. From the studied series, five compounds presented inhibitory activity against tyrosinase, one compound against elastase, eight compounds against collagenase and two compounds against hyaluronidase, being five compounds dual inhibitors. The 3-(4'-Bromophenyl)-5,7-dihydroxycoumarin (1) and 3-(3'-bromophenyl)-5,7-dihydroxycoumarin (2) presented the best profiles against tyrosinase (IC₅₀ = 1.05 µM and 7.03 µM) and collagenase (IC₅₀ = 123.4 µM and 110.4 µM); the 3-(4'-bromophenyl)-6,7-dihydroxycoumarin (4) presented a good inhibition against tyrosinase and hyaluronidase; the 3-(3'-bromophenyl)-6,7-dihydroxycoumarin (5) showed an effective tyrosinase and elastase inhibition; and 6,7-dihydroxy-3-(3'-hydroxyphenyl)coumarin (11) presented a dual profile inhibition against collagenase and hyaluronidase. Furthermore, considering the overall activities tested, compounds 1 and 2 proved to be the most promising anti-aging compounds. These compounds also showed to have a photo-protective effect, without being cytotoxic to human skin keratinocyte cells. To predict the binding site with the target enzymes, computational studies were also carried out.

Enzymatic Biosynthesis of Simple Phenolic Glycosides as Potential Anti-Melanogenic Antioxidants

Simple phenolics (SPs) and their glycosides have recently gained much attention as functional skin-care resources for their anti-melanogenic and antioxidant activities. Enzymatic glycosylation of SP aglycone make it feasible to create SP glycosides with updated bioactive potentials. Herein, a glycosyltransferase (GT)-encoding gene was cloned from the fosmid libraries of Streptomyces tenjimariensis ATCC 31603 using GT-specific degenerate PCR followed by in silico analyses. The recombinant StSPGT was able to flexibly catalyze the transfer of two glycosyl moieties towards two SP acceptors, (hydroxyphenyl-2-propanol [HPP2] and hydroxyphenyl-3-propanol [HPP3]), generating stereospecific α-anomeric glycosides as follows: HPP2-O-α-glucoside, HPP2-O-α-2″-deoxyglucoside, HPP3-O-α-glucoside and HPP3-O-α-2″-deoxyglucoside. This enzyme seems not only to prefer UDP-glucose and HPP2 as a favorable glycosyl donor and acceptor, respectively but also differentiates the positional difference of the hydroxyl function as acceptor catalytic sites. Paired in vitro and in vivo antioxidant assays represented SPs and their corresponding glycosides as convincing antioxidants in a time- and concentration-dependent manner by scavenging DPPH radicals and intracellular ROS. Even compared to the conventional agents, HPP2 and glycoside analogs displayed improved tyrosinase inhibitory activity in vitro and still suppressed in vivo melanogenesis. Both HPP2 glycosides are further likely to exert the best inhibitory activity against elastase, eventually highlighting these glycosides with enhanced anti-melanogenic and antioxidant activities as promising anti-wrinkle hits.

Euphorbia characias Extract: Inhibition of Skin Aging-Related Enzymes and Nanoformulation

Plant extracts have long served as important sources of bioactive compounds, and they are currently the focus of extensive research in the development of novel preventive and therapeutic strategies. However, their health benefits are often limited by low bioavailability. Nanoparticle delivery systems can represent a solution to such limitations. Euphorbia characias is a Mediterranean shrub known to have biological activities, such as inhibiting tyrosinase and showing a potential role as a skin-whitening agent. In this study, an ethanolic extract from E. characias leaves was tested for its inhibitory activity on skin-related enzymes, such as elastase, collagenase, and hyaluronidase, and for sun protection factors. Moreover, the extract was formulated in phospholipid vesicles to improve its local bioavailability and applicability. The vesicles were characterized by size, surface charge, storage stability, and entrapment efficiency. The nanoformulation was also evaluated for antioxidant activity and assayed for cytocompatibility and anti-tyrosinase activity in melanoma cells. Our findings demonstrated that the extract has a photo-protective effect and enzyme-inhibitory properties. E. characias nanoformulation was also cytocompatible and improved the extract’s activity in the cells, suggesting a potential skin application for antimelanogenic treatments and confirming the key role of nanotechnological approaches to maximize plant extract’s potentialities.

A Liposomal Formulation to Exploit the Bioactive Potential of an Extract from Graciano Grape Pomace

Antioxidant compounds with health benefits can be found in food processing residues, such as grape pomace. In this study, antioxidants were identified and quantified in an extract obtained from Graciano red grape pomace via a green process. The antioxidant activity of the extract was assessed by the DPPH and FRAP tests, and the phenolic content by the Folin–Ciocalteu test. Furthermore, nanotechnologies were employed to produce a safe and effective formulation that would exploit the antioxidant potential of the extract for skin applications. Anthocyanins, flavan-3-ols and flavanols were the main constituents of the grape pomace extract. Phospholipid vesicles, namely liposomes, were prepared and characterized. Cryo-TEM images showed that the extract-loaded liposomes were predominantly spherical/elongated, small, unilamellar vesicles. Light scattering results revealed that the liposomes were small (~100 nm), homogeneously dispersed, and stable during storage. The non-toxicity of the liposomal formulation was demonstrated in vitro in skin cells, suggesting its possible safe use. These findings indicate that an extract with antioxidant properties can be obtained from food processing residues, and a liposomal formulation can be developed to exploit its bioactive value, resulting in a promising healthy product.

Tempranillo Grape Extract in Transfersomes: A Nanoproduct with Antioxidant Activity

Polyphenols are gaining increasing interest due to their beneficial properties to human health. Grape pomace, the by-product of wine production, is a source of these bioactive compounds. An extract from Tempranillo grape pomace was obtained and characterized qualitatively and quantitatively. The major components found were anthocyanins, flavan-3-ols, and flavonols. To improve the bioavailability of these compounds, the extract was formulated in phospholipid vesicles, namely transfersomes. Spherical unilamellar vesicles around 100 nm each were obtained. The antioxidant activity of both the extract and the transfersomes was evaluated by using colorimetric assays (i.e., DPPH, FRAP, and Folin–Ciocalteu). The cells’ viability and the antioxidant activity were assessed in keratinocytes. The results showed that the extract and the transfersomes had no cytotoxic effects and exerted remarkable antioxidant activity, which was more evident in a vesicle formulation. These findings highlighted the potential of the Tempranillo grape pomace extract and the efficacy of the incorporation into phospholipid vesicles.

The Modulatory Influence of Plant-Derived Compounds on Human Keratinocyte Function

The plant kingdom is a rich source of secondary metabolites with numerous properties, including the potential to modify keratinocyte biology. Keratinocytes are important epithelial cells that play a protective role against various chemical, physical and biological stimuli, and participate in reactive oxygen scavenging and inflammation and wound healing processes. The epidermal cell response may be modulated by phytochemicals via changes in signal transduction pathways. Plant extracts and single secondary compounds can possess a high antioxidant capacity and may suppress reactive oxygen species release, inhibit pro-apoptotic proteins and apoptosis and activate antioxidant enzymes in keratinocytes. Moreover, selected plant extracts and single compounds also exhibit anti-inflammatory properties and exposure may result in limited production of adhesion molecules, pro-inflammatory cytokines and chemokines in keratinocytes. In addition, plant extracts and single compounds may promote keratinocyte motility and proliferation via the regulation of growth factor production and enhance wound healing. While such plant compounds may modulate keratinocyte functions, further in vitro and in vivo studies are needed on their mechanisms of action, and more specific toxicity and clinical studies are needed to ensure their effectiveness and safety for use on human skin.