The primary role of sebum in the pathophysiology of acne vulgaris and its therapeutic relevance in acne management

BACKGROUND

Sebum physiology and its contributions to acne vulgaris (AV) pathophysiology have been long debated. Within the pilosebaceous unit, androgens drive sebocyte production of sebum, comprising mono-, di-, and triglycerides (the latter converted to fatty acids); squalene; cholesterol; cholesterol esters; and wax esters. Upon release to the skin surface, human sebum has important roles in epidermal water retention, antimicrobial defenses, and innate immune responses.

AIMS

Alterations in sebum alone and with other pathogenic factors (inflammation, follicular hyperkeratinization, and Cutibacterium acnes [C. acnes] proliferation) contribute to AV pathophysiology. Androgen-driven sebum production, mandatory for AV development, propagates C. acnes proliferation and upregulates inflammatory and comedogenic cascades.

RESULTS

Some sebum lipids have comedogenic effects in isolation, and sebum content alterations (including elevations in specific fatty acids) contribute to AV pathogenesis. Regional differences in facial sebum production, coupled with patient characteristics (including sex and age), help exemplify this link between sebum alterations and AV lesion formation.

CONCLUSIONS

To date, only combined oral contraceptives and oral spironolactone (both limited to female patients), oral isotretinoin and topical clascoterone (cortexolone 17α-propionate) modulate sebum production in patients with AV. A better understanding of mechanisms underlying sebaceous gland changes driving AV development is needed to expand the AV treatment armamentarium.

Acne Transcriptomics: Fundamentals of Acne Pathogenesis and Isotretinoin Treatment

This review on acne transcriptomics allows for deeper insights into the pathogenesis of acne and isotretinoin's mode of action. Puberty-induced insulin-like growth factor 1 (IGF-1), insulin and androgen signaling activate the kinase AKT and mechanistic target of rapamycin complex 1 (mTORC1). A Western diet (hyperglycemic carbohydrates and milk/dairy products) also co-stimulates AKT/mTORC1 signaling. The AKT-mediated phosphorylation of nuclear FoxO1 and FoxO3 results in their extrusion into the cytoplasm, a critical switch which enhances the transactivation of lipogenic and proinflammatory transcription factors, including androgen receptor (AR), sterol regulatory element-binding transcription factor 1 (SREBF1), peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor γ (PPARγ) and signal transducer and activator of transcription 3 (STAT3), but reduces the FoxO1-dependent expression of GATA binding protein 6 (GATA6), the key transcription factor for infundibular keratinocyte homeostasis. The AKT-mediated phosphorylation of the p53-binding protein MDM2 promotes the degradation of p53. In contrast, isotretinoin enhances the expression of p53, FoxO1 and FoxO3 in the sebaceous glands of acne patients. The overexpression of these proapoptotic transcription factors explains isotretinoin's desirable sebum-suppressive effect via the induction of sebocyte apoptosis and the depletion of BLIMP1(+) sebocyte progenitor cells; it also explains its adverse effects, including teratogenicity (neural crest cell apoptosis), a reduced ovarian reserve (granulosa cell apoptosis), the risk of depression (the apoptosis of hypothalamic neurons), VLDL hyperlipidemia, intracranial hypertension and dry skin.

Effect of Evening Primrose Oil Supplementation on Selected Parameters of Skin Condition in a Group of Patients Treated with Isotretinoin-A Randomized Double-Blind Trial

Background: Retinoids, which include isotretinoin, reduce sebum levels, the degree of epidermal wetness (CORN) and cause an increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Weight gain has also been observed in isotretinoin-treated patients. An agent that can reduce the severity of isotretinoin side effects is evening primrose oil (Oenothera paradoxa). The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of evening primrose oil supplementation in patients with acne vulgaris treated with isotretinoin on skin hydration status (CORN), transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin oiliness (sebum) and changes in body weight and BMI. Methods: Patients diagnosed with acne were assigned to the isotretinoin-treated group (n = 25) or the isotretinoin and evening primrose oil-treated group (n = 25). The intervention lasted 9 months. CORN (with a corneometer), TEWL (with a tewameter) and sebum (with a sebumeter) were assessed twice, as well as body weight and BMI (Tanita MC-780). Results: The isotretinoin-treated group showed statistically significant reductions in CORN (p = 0.015), TEWL (p = 0.004) and sebum (p < 0.001) after the intervention. In the group treated with isotretinoin and evening primrose oil, TEWL and sebum levels also decreased significantly (p < 0.05), while CORN levels increased from 42.0 ± 9.70 to 50.9 ± 10.4 (p = 0.017). A significant decrease in body weight (p < 0.001) and BMI (p < 0.001) was observed in both groups after 9 months of intervention. Conclusions: During isotretinoin treatment, supplementation with evening primrose oil increased skin hydration. However, there were no differences between groups in transepidermal water loss, skin oiliness, weight loss and BMI.

Evaluation of biophysical skin parameters and hair changes in patients with acne vulgaris treated with isotretinoin, and the effect of biotin use on these parameters

AIM

Impairment of biotin metabolism with the use of isotretinoin and the mucocutaneous side effects observed in patients using isotretinoin suggests that they are a result of decreased enzyme activity. We aimed to determine the pattern of skin and hair changes in patients with acne receiving isotretinoin and how these changes were affected by biotin added to the treatment.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Sixty patients were divided into two groups. Each group contained 30 patients. Groups A and B received 0.5 mg/kg/day isotretinoin, and 10 mg/day biotin supplement was added to Group B. Both groups were evaluated using a digital dermoscope for hair changes and with a DermaLab^® Combo device for transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin retraction, skin hydration, and skin sebum levels at the beginning and end of the fourth month.

RESULTS

In group B, the anagen hair ratio increased (P = 0.034) and the telogen hair ratio decreased significantly (P = 0.003). Skin sebum and the skin retraction values decreased in both groups. Skin hydration decreased significantly in group A (P = 0.001), but there was no significant decrease in group B (P = 0.43).

CONCLUSION

Biotin (10 mg/day) given in addition to isotretinoin treatment decreased telogen and increased anagen hair rates and helped to maintain skin hydration. The use of 10 mg/day biotin can prevent the mucocutaneous adverse effects of isotretinoin treatment.