Evaluation of the antioxidant and melanogenesis inhibitory properties of pracparatum mungo (lu-do huang)

Synthesis, Characterization and Assessment of Antioxidant and Melanogenic Inhibitory Properties of Edaravone Derivatives

A series of edaravone derivatives and the corresponding Cu(II) complexes were synthesized and characterized using spectroscopic and analytical techniques such as IR, UV, NMR and elemental analysis. Antioxidant activities of all compounds were examined using free radical scavenging methods such as hydrogen peroxide scavenging activity (HPSA), 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2-2'-azino-bis-(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonate) (ABTS) assays. All of the tested compounds exhibited good antioxidant activity. Further, the frontier orbital energy levels, as well as various chemical properties, were determined using the density functional theory (DFT) calculations. The MEP maps of all of the derivatives were plotted to identify the nucleophilic and electrophilic reactive sites. Further, binding energies of all of the organic compounds with the protein tyrosinase was investigated to determine their potential anti-melanogenic applications. The selected ligand, L6 was subjected to molecular dynamics simulation analysis to determine the stability of the ligand-protein complex. The MD simulation was performed (150 ns) to estimate the stability of the tyrosinase-L6 complex. Other key parameters, such as, RMSD, RMSF, Rg, hydrogen bonds, SASA and MMPBSA were also analyzed to understand the interaction of L6 with the tyrosinase protein.

Skin lightening properties of zerumbone cream: A placebo-controlled study

OBJECTIVE

Despite the demonstrated anti-melanogenic and UV protective effects of Zerumbone (ZER) in vitro, there is a lack of clinical trials that have been done to assess these properties. The primary objective of this study was to assess the effectiveness of ZER in lightening the skin tone of human participants with a single-blind approach.

METHODS

Twenty-six participants were randomly assigned to two groups to investigate the application location (left or right volar forearm) for the placebo and ZER creams. Both creams were topically administered to the volar forearms twice daily over a duration of 4 weeks. Initial skin irritation was assessed before and 30 min after applying creams. The melanin and erythema levels were quantified with Mexameter MX 18.

RESULTS

Twenty participants were included in the analysis. The cream formulation had excellent physical properties and was well-received by the participants. The initial skin irritation study results indicated that neither of the creams elicited an allergic reaction. The administration of ZER cream resulted in a statistically significant reduction in melanin levels (p < 0.05) after 1 week compared to the initial baseline. Furthermore, after 2 weeks of application, ZER cream demonstrated significant differences in melanin levels compared to placebo (p < 0.05). No adverse effects were observed in the group using ZER cream.

CONCLUSION

ZER demonstrated significant potential as a skin-lightening agent.

Stability, biofunctional, and antimicrobial characteristics of cannabidiol isolate for the design of topical formulations

Cannabidiol (CBD) is a high-value natural compound of Cannabis Sativa plant. It is a non-psychotropic phytocannabinoid, attracting significant attention as a multifunctional active ingredient for topical applications. Although it is demonstrated that CBD can be used for specific dermatological ailments, reliable data on functionalities are limited. The present study aimed to investigate the structural stability, biofunctionality, and antimicrobial characteristics of CBD isolate to assist in the design of various topical formulations. The stability of CBD in solid and solubilized states was assessed to establish storage and formulation conditions. The performance of CBD solubilized in organic and aqueous media was evaluated for free radical scavenging, tyrosinase, and collagenase enzyme inhibition, which showed good prospects for the ingredient. The antimicrobial activity of solubilized CBD was evaluated against Gram-negative (E. coli, P. aeruginosa), Gram-positive bacterial strains (S. aureus, S. epidermidis, C. acnes), and fungal strains (C. albicans, M. furfur) using agar well diffusion and broth microdilution methods. Due to the presence of surfactants in CBD aqueous solution, it displayed a lack of antimicrobial activity against all the tested microorganisms. CBD solubilized in an organic medium showed no activity against Gram-negative bacterial strains but higher activity against tested Gram-positive bacterial and fungal strains.

Enhanced antioxidant, tyrosinase inhibition, and anti-inflammatory activities of Praeparatum mungo and three of its derivatives

The main objective of this study is to explore the functions of Praeparatum mungo (PM) and three of its derivatives, Praeparatum mungo/turmeric (PM/T), Praeparatum mungo/bromelain (PM/B), and Praeparatum mungo/inorganic elements (PM/IE). The results indicated that additives included in the fermentation process of PM enhanced PM's antioxidant properties. PM/B exhibited the highest total phenolic content (19.18 ± 0.46 mg gallic acid equivalent/g), DPPH free radical scavenging activity, and ferric reducing power. PM/IE exhibited the highest ABTS free radical scavenging activity and chelating ferrous ion activity. PM/T exhibited the best inhibitory tyrosinase activity. The 625 μg/mL PM extract can extensively reduce nitric oxide production of RAW264.7 macrophages stimulated by 1 μg/mL LPS and exhibited no cytotoxicity for anti-inflammatory applications. Additives in PM natural fermentation process can enhance antioxidant, tyrosinase inhibition, and anti-inflammatory properties of PM for future applications.

Evaluation of TILI-2 as an Anti-Tyrosinase, Anti-Oxidative Agent and Its Role in Preventing Melanogenesis Using a Proteomics Approach

There is a desire to develop new molecules that can combat hyperpigmentation. To this end, the N-terminal cysteine-containing heptapeptide TILI-2 has shown promising preliminary results. In this work, the mechanism by which it works was evaluated using a series of biochemical assays focusing on known biochemical pathways, followed by LC-MS/MS proteomics to discover pathways that have not been considered before. We demonstrate that TILI-2 is a competitive inhibitor of tyrosinase’s monophenolase activity and it could potentially scavenge ABTS and DPPH radicals. It has a very low cytotoxicity up to 1400 µM against human fibroblast NFDH cells and macrophage-like RAW 264.7 cells. Our proteomics study revealed that another putative mechanism by which TILI-2 may reduce melanin production involves the disruption of the TGF-β signaling pathway in mouse B16F1 cells. This result suggests that TILI-2 has potential scope to be used as a depigmenting agent.

Formula Development of Red Palm (Elaeis guineensis) Fruit Extract Loaded with Solid Lipid Nanoparticles Containing Creams and Its Anti-Aging Efficacy in Healthy Volunteers

Palm fruits (Elaeis guineensis) comprise antioxidants that can be used as skin care agents. This study developed a cosmeceutical cream containing E. guineensis extract, loaded with solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs), and assessed its efficacy on female volunteers. The E. guineensis extract exhibited a good antioxidant activity with high levels of vitamin E, β-carotene, and palmitic acid. Day and night creams containing E. guineensis fruit extract, loaded with SLNs, were formulated and exhibited acceptable physical characteristics and good stability. Subsequently, their clinical efficacy and safety were evaluated on female volunteers. Both creams were non-irritating and had good cutaneous compatibility. Skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin elasticity, melanin index, and skin texture were measured before and 30 min after the first application, as well as after 7, 14, and 30 days of daily application. A satisfactory survey was implemented using a questionnaire, and volunteer satisfaction scores were high for the product’s performance. Overall, the results showed that skin hydration, TEWL, cutaneous elasticity, and melanin index were improved, compared to the baseline data, after 30 days. Thus, the formulated facial day and night creams made the skin moist, reduced wrinkles, increased elasticity, and cleared the skin to the consumers’ satisfaction.

High Therapeutic and Esthetic Properties of Extracellular Vesicles Produced from the Stem Cells and Their Spheroids Cultured from Ocular Surgery-Derived Waste Orbicularis Oculi Muscle Tissues

Extracellular vesicles (EVs) are paracrine factors that mediate stem cell therapeutics. We aimed at evaluating the possible therapeutic and esthetic applications of EVs prepared from the waste human facial tissue-derived orbicularis oculi muscle stem cells (OOM-SCs). OOM-SCs were isolated from the ocular tissues (from elders and youngsters) after upper eyelid blepharoplasty or epiblepharon surgeries. EVs were prepared from the OOM-SCs (OOM-SC-EVs) and their three-dimensional spheroids. OOM-SCs showed a spindle-like morphology with trilineage differentiation capacity, positive expression of CD105, CD 90, and CD73, and negative expression of CD45 and CD34, and their stem cell properties were compared with other adult mesenchymal stem cells. OOM-SC-EVs showed a high inhibitory effect on melanin synthesis in B16F10 cells by blocking tyrosinase activity. OOM-SC-EVs treatment led to a significant attenuation of senescence-associated changes, a decrease in reactive oxygen species generation, and an upregulation of antioxidant genes. We demonstrated the regeneration activity of OOM-SC-EVs in in vitro wound healing of normal human dermal fibroblasts and upregulation of anti-wrinkle-related genes and confirmed the therapeutic potential of OOM-SC-EVs in the healing of the in vivo wound model. Our study provides promising therapeutic and esthetic applications of OOM-SC-EVs, which can be obtained from the ocular surgery-derived waste human facial tissues.

Modulating skin colour: role of the thioredoxin and glutathione systems in regulating melanogenesis

Different skin colour among individuals is determined by the varying amount and types of melanin pigment. Melanin is produced in melanocytes, a type of dendritic cell located in the basal layer of the epidermis, through the process of melanogenesis. Melanogenesis consists of a series of biochemical and enzymatic reactions catalysed by tyrosinase and other tyrosinase-related proteins, leading to the formation of two types of melanin, eumelanin and pheomelanin. Melanogenesis can be regulated intrinsically by several signalling pathways, including the cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP)/protein kinase A (PKA), stem cell factor (SCF)/c-kit and wingless-related integration site (Wnt)/β-catenin signalling pathways. Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is the major extrinsic factor in the regulation of melanogenesis, through the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). Antioxidants or antioxidant systems, with the ability to scavenge ROS, may decrease melanogenesis. This review focuses on the two main cellular antioxidant systems, the thioredoxin (Trx) and glutathione (GSH) systems, and discusses their roles in melanogenesis. In the Trx system, high levels/activities of thioredoxin reductase (TrxR) are correlated with melanin formation. The GSH system is linked with regulating pheomelanin formation. Exogenous addition of GSH has been shown to act as a depigmenting agent, suggesting that other antioxidants may also have the potential to act as depigmenting agents for the treatment of human hyperpigmentation disorders.

Collagenase and Melanogenesis Inhibitory Effects of Perilla Frutescens Pomace Extract and Its Efficacy in Topical Cosmetic Formulations

In previous studies, Perilla frutescens pomace was shown to contain bioactive phenolic compounds and good anti-oxidative activity. However, reports about collagenase activity and melanogenesis inhibitory effects of P. frutescens pomace are limited. This study aimed to evaluate the bioactivity of P. frutescens pomace extract and incorporate the extract into a cosmetic formulation for evaluating its effects on collagenase and melanogenesis inhibition on human skin. The P. frutescens seeds after an oil pressing process were extracted with ethanol (70% v/v) in order to examine the remaining phytochemical compounds, the bioactivity in pomace perilla, and its efficacy as a skincare product. In this study, total phenolic and total flavonoid contents of P. frutescens seed extract (PFSE) were determined using spectrophotometry. The free radical scavenging activity was determined with 2, 2′-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radicals and 2,2′-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzthiazoline-6-sulphonic acid) ABTS radicals. Additionally, the effects on collagenase activity, melanin content, and alpha-Melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH) on the viability of cultured B16F10 melanoma cells were investigated. Skin irritation and efficacy of PFSE cream for skin elasticity and skin color were also clinically evaluated. The total phenolic content with gallic acid equivalents (GAE) value and total flavonoids content with catechin equivalents (CE) value were, respectively, 92.79 ± 1.19 and 56.02 ± 2.83 mg/g. Furthermore, PFSE significantly inhibited the collagenase activity (p < 0.001) at the concentration of 400 µg/mL (82 ± 3.23%). These results clearly demonstrated the anti-melanogenic effects on B16F10 cells without causing any cytotoxicity or death. Although there was a slight improvement in skin elasticity in the 4th week compared to the previous week, the 4th week melanin content of the skin significantly decreased from the beginning (p < 0.05) without any irritations. In conclusion, PFSE could be cosmetically considered as a key ingredient that effectively lessens the effects of skin aging and skin hyperpigmentation disorders.

The role and mechanism of Asian medicinal plants in treating skin pigmentary disorders

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Chloasma, senile plaques, vitiligo and other pigmentary disorders seriously affect patients' appearance and life quality. Medicinal plant is the product of long-term medical practice worldwide, with the advantages of outstanding curative properties and less side effects. Recently, research were made to explore the value of medicinal plants in the treatment of pigmentary disorders, and remarkable results were achieved.

AIM OF THE REVIEW

This review outlines the current understanding of the role and potential mechanisms of medicinal plants (including active ingredients, extracts and prescriptions) in pigmentary disorders, especially Chinese medicinal plants, provides the preclinical evidence for the clinical benefits. This study hopes to provide comprehensive information and reliable basis for exploring new therapeutic strategies of plant drugs in the treatment of skin pigmented diseases.

METHODS

The literature information was obtained from the scientific databases (up to Oct, 2017), mainly from the PubMed, Web of Science and CNKI databases, and was to identify the experimental studies on the regulating melanogenesis role of the active agents from herbal medicine and the involved mechanisms. The search keywords for such work included: "pigmentary" or "pigmentation", "melanogenesis", and "traditional Chinese medicine" or "Chinese herbal medicine", "herb", "medicinal plant".

RESULTS

We summarized the function of medicinal plants involved in melanogenesis, especially Chinese medicine. It was reported that the active ingredients, extracts, or prescriptions of medicinal plants can regulate the expression of genes related to melanogenesis by affecting the signaling pathways such as MAPK and PKA, thereby regulating pigment synthesis. Some of them can promote melanogenesis (such as isoliquiritigenin, geniposide; Cornus officinalis Siebold & Zucc., Eclipta prostrata (L.) L.; the Bairesi complex prescription, etc.). While others have the opposite effect (such as biochanin A, Gomisin N; Panax ginseng C.A. Meyer, Nardostachys chinensis Bat.; Sanbaitang, etc.).

CONCLUSION

Asian medicinal plants, especially their active ingredients, have multilevel effects on melanogenesis by regulating melanogenesis-related genes or signaling pathways. They are of great clinical value for the treatment of skin pigmentary disorders. However, the experimental effect, safety, and functional mechanism of the medicinal plants require further determination before studying their clinical efficacy.