Elevating Skincare Science: Grape Seed Extract Encapsulation for Dermatological Care

The skin is the largest organ in the human body and serves multiple functions such as barrier protection and thermoregulation. The maintenance of its integrity and healthy structure is of paramount importance. Accordingly, technological advances in cosmetic sciences have been directed towards optimizing these factors. Plant-derived ingredients have been explored for their bioactivity profiles and sustainable sources. Grape by-products contain a group of bioactive molecules that display important biological activities. Nonetheless, many of these molecules (e.g., phenolic compounds) are unstable and susceptible to degradation. So, their encapsulation using nano/microsystems (i.e., microdispersions) has been explored as a promising solution. In this work, two grape seed extracts were obtained, one from a single grape variety (GSE-Ov) and another from a mix of five grape varieties (GSE-Sv). These extracts were analysed for their antioxidant and antimicrobial activities, as well as their chemical composition and molecular structure. The extract that showed the most promising properties was GSE-Ov with a DPPH IC50 of 0.079 mg mL-1. This extract was encapsulated in soy lecithin microdispersions coated with pectin, with an encapsulation efficiency of 88.8%. They showed an in vitro release of polyphenols of 59.4% during 24 h. The particles displayed a zeta potential of -20.3 mV and an average diameter of 13.6 µm. Microdispersions proved to be safe under 5 and 2.5 mg mL-1 in HaCaT and HDF cell models, respectively. Additionally, they demonstrated anti-inflammatory activity against IL-1α when tested at 2 mg mL-1. This work enabled the valorisation of a by-product from the wine industry by using natural extracts in skincare products.

In vitro antioxidant extracts evaluation from the residue of the Hevea brasiliensis seed

The antioxidants used in the food industry are essential to inhibit the formation of free radicals, preserving the existing properties in the different matrices. However, the insecurity of the synthetic antioxidants regarding human health propels search for natural substrates with potential antioxidant activity as an alternative to synthetic compounds. In this way, the work had as objective obtaining extracts from the seed pomace of the Hevea brasiliensis (rubber tree), relating the contents of flavonoids and total phenols in the application as an antioxidant. The methodology consisted of the extraction using four solvents, varying extractive methods, time, and seed concentrations. The antioxidant activity in vitro was evaluated by capturing the DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picryl-hydrazil) radical. The optimized results demonstrate that the aqueous extracts produced in the Soxhlet in the concentrations of 85 g L-1 and retention time of 4 h reached 37.73 ± 1.69% in the antioxidant tests of the free radical DPPH capture, 1405.15 mg EAC 100 g-1 in the quantification of phenolic compounds and 223.34 mg 100 g-1 of total flavonoids. Thus, this work may contribute to the realization of studies and future research for characterization and identification concerning which phenolic compounds and flavonoids attribute the antioxidant characteristic to the extracts produced, enabling the discovery of products with high added value in the production chain. In addition, because the water used as a solvent showed greater antioxidant potential between the extracts, the non-toxic and environmentally friendly character is highlighted, allowing a wide variety of applications in the food industry.

Phenolic compound and fatty acid properties of some microalgae species isolated from Erbil City

Abstract The total phenolic compound and fatty acid profiles of lipids from microalgae are unique. The present study was designed to investigate aqueous, ethanolic and acetone extracts of several algae (Spirogyra sp., Spirulina sp.,Chlorella sp and Chara sp.) for their antioxidant capacities of the crude extracts and fractions by radical scavenging activity against the stable radical 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl DPPH as well; total phenolic content. The results showed that Spirulina sp. indicated significantly higher total phenolic compound and antioxidant activities compared to the other species (P < 0.05) and acetone extracts showed higher quantity among three extracts. The fatty acids analysis using High performance liquid chromatography –HPLC showed the presence of palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, and linoleic acid, palmitic acid showed high quantity than other fatty acid classes in all studied algae. This study concluded that high antioxidant capacity of microalgae could be inspected for different industrial applications.

Deformable liposomes as enhancer of caffeine penetration through human skin in a Franz diffusion cell test

OBJECTIVE

The permeation of hydrophilic molecules through the skin is still a challenge due to the barrier posed by stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin. Liposomes have frequently been used as carriers for different types of drugs and may also function as permeation enhancers. Propylene glycol has also been used as an edge activator in liposomes to increase the permeation. The aim of this work was to prepare liposomes containing an edge activator and loaded with caffeine to evaluate the potential of caffeine reaching the deeper layers in the skin.

METHODS

The formulations were prepared by a top-down process using high-pressure homogenization at 200 00 psi for 10 min. They were characterized by size, polydispersity index (PI), zeta potential (ZP), pH, caffeine content and encapsulation efficiency (EE%) on preparation (time zero) and after 30 days. Cytotoxicity of blank and loaded liposomes was assessed by MTT proliferation assay with a normal keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT). In vitro permeation tests were performed with human skin in Franz cells over 24 h, and caffeine concentration was determined in the skin surface, stratum corneum, dermo-epidermal fraction and receptor medium by HPLC.

RESULTS

The caffeine liposomes with (DL-Caf) or without propylene glycol (CL-Caf) showed, respectively, mean size 94.5 and 95.4 nm, PI 0.48 and 0.42, ZP + 1.3 and + 18.1 mV and caffeine content of 78.57 and 80.13%. IC₅₀ values of caffeine in DL-Caf (3.59 v/v %) and CL-Caf (3.65 v/v %) were not significantly different from conventional blank liposome (3.27 v/v %). The DL-Caf formulation presented the best capability to enhance the caffeine permeation through the skin, resulting 1.94-folds higher than caffeine solution. Furthermore, the caffeine flux from DL-Caf was 1.56- and 3.05-folds higher than caffeine solution and CL-Caf, respectively. On the other hand, CL-Caf showed the lowest caffeine penetration revealing the importance of edge activator to aid hydrophilic drug penetration to all skin layers.

CONCLUSION

The DL-Caf formulation tested was able to improve the permeation of caffeine through the stratum corneum and dermo-epidermal layers, suggesting that this delivery system may be effective for deep skin delivery of hydrophilic drugs.

Spirulina sp. biomass dried/disrupted by different methods and their application in biofilms production

Arthrospira Spirulina biomass is a source of intracellular compounds with great commercial interest, such as phycocyanin and phenolic compounds. In this work, different cell disruption methods of the microalgae biomass dried in spouted bed and in conventional tray were performed, aiming lead to the better extraction yields of these compounds. The samples of both drying techniques with the most suitable cell disruption were used to biofilms production. FTIR, DSC, and SEM for all samples were performed. The samples dried in spouted bed with cell disruption by milling and by microwave showed the best results for the powder products, with phycocyanin contents of 75.0 and 85.4 mg g-1, and total phenolic compounds of 41.6 and 41.9 mg g-1, respectively. However, the tray drying/milling produced the biofilms with the best characteristics (tensile strength of 3.69 MPa and water vapor permeability of 1.67 × 10-11 g m s-1 m-2 Pa-1) and the highest thermal stability.

The Influence of Spirulina platensis Filtrates on Caco-2 Proliferative Activity and Expression of Apoptosis-Related microRNAs and mRNA

Spirulina platensis (SP) is a blue-green microalga that has recently raised attention not only as a nutritional component, but also as a source of bioactivities that have therapeutic effects and may find application in medicine, including cancer treatment. In the present study we determined the cytotoxic effect of S. platensis filtrates (SPF) on human colon cancer cell line Caco-2. Three concentrations of SPF were tested-1.25%, 2.5%, and 5% (v/v). We have found that the highest concentration of SPF exerts the strongest anti-proliferative and pro-apoptotic effect on Caco-2 cultures. The SPF negatively affected the morphology of Caco-2 causing colony shrinking and significant inhibition of metabolic and proliferative activity of cells. The wound-healing assay showed that the SPF impaired migratory capabilities of Caco-2. This observation was consistent with lowered mRNA levels for metalloproteinases. Furthermore, SPF decreased the transcript level of pro-survival genes (cyclin D1, surviving, and c-Myc) and reduced the autocrine secretion of Wnt-10b. The cytotoxic effect of SPF involved the modulation of the Bax and Bcl-2 ratio and a decrease of mitochondrial activity, and was related with increased levels of intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) and nitric oxide (NO). Moreover, the SPF also caused an increased number of cells in the apoptotic sub-G0 phase and up-regulated expression of mir-145, simultaneously decreasing expression of mir-17 and 146. Obtained results indicate that SPF can be considered as an agent with anti-cancer properties that may be used for colon cancer prevention and treatment.