Safety Evaluation and Anti-wrinkle Effects of Retinoids on Skin

Use of Retinoids in Topical Antiaging Treatments: A Focused Review of Clinical Evidence for Conventional and Nanoformulations

Nowadays, numerous skincare routines are used to rejuvenate aging skin. Retinoids are one of the most popular ingredients used in antiaging treatments. Among the representatives of retinoids, tretinoin is considered the most effective agent with proven antiaging effects on the skin and can be found in formulations approved as medicines for topical treatment of acne, facial wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. Other retinoids present in topical medicines are used for various indications, but only tazarotene is also approved as adjunctive agent for treatment of facial fine wrinkling and pigmentation. The most commonly used retinoids such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate are contained in cosmeceuticals regulated as cosmetics. Since clinical efficacy studies are not required for marketing cosmetic formulations, there are concerns about the efficacy of these retinoids. From a formulation perspective, retinoids pose a challenge to researchers as a result of their proven instability, low penetration, and potential for skin irritation. Therefore, novel delivery systems based on nanotechnology are being developed to overcome the limitations of conventional formulations and improve user compliance. In this review, the clinical evidence for retinoids in conventional and nanoformulations for topical antiaging treatments was evaluated. In addition, an overview of the comparison clinical trials between tretinoin and other retinoids is presented. In general, there is a lack of evidence from properly designed clinical trials to support the claimed efficacy of the most commonly used retinoids as antiaging agents in cosmeceuticals. Of the other retinoids contained in medicines, tazarotene and adapalene have clinically evaluated antiaging effects compared to tretinoin and may be considered as potential alternatives for antiaging treatments. The promising potential of retinoid nanoformulations requires a more comprehensive evaluation with additional studies to support the preliminary findings.

Keratinocyte Carcinoma and Photoprevention: The Protective Actions of Repurposed Pharmaceuticals, Phytochemicals and Vitamins

Simple Summary

Keratinocyte carcinoma is the most common type of cancer. Sun exposure and ultraviolet radiation are significant contributors to the development of carcinogenesis, mediated by DNA damage, increased oxidative stress, inflammation, immunosuppression and dysregulated signal transduction. Photoprevention involves using different compounds to delay or prevent ultraviolet radiation-induced skin cancer. In this review, we look at new avenues for systemic photoprevention that are based on pharmaceuticals, plant-derived phytochemicals and vitamins. We also investigate the mechanisms underlying these strategies for preventing the onset of carcinogenesis.

Abstract

Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) arising from sun exposure represents a major risk factor in the development of keratinocyte carcinomas (KCs). UVR exposure induces dysregulated signal transduction, oxidative stress, inflammation, immunosuppression and DNA damage, all of which promote the induction and development of photocarcinogenesis. Because the incidence of KCs is increasing, better prevention strategies are necessary. In the concept of photoprevention, protective compounds are administered either topically or systemically to prevent the effects of UVR and the development of skin cancer. In this review, we provide descriptions of the pathways underlying photocarcinogenesis and an overview of selected photoprotective compounds, such as repurposed pharmaceuticals, plant-derived phytochemicals and vitamins. We discuss the protective potential of these compounds and their effects in pre-clinical and human trials, summarising the mechanisms of action involved in preventing photocarcinogenesis.

Enhancement of the Anti-Skin Wrinkling Effects of Aloe arborescens Miller Extracts Associated with Lactic Acid Fermentation

This work clearly shows that Aloe arborescens but not gels from Aloe vera, a common juice-type product of Aloe, exerted anti-skin wrinkling effects, and these effects were greatly enhanced by lactic acid fermentation with Lactobacillus plantarum. Treatment with the extract from the fermentation process (FE) at a dose of 0.5% highly activated human fibroblast cells by up to 175%, whereas 140% activation and 105% activation were observed with the extract obtained using conventional water extraction (WE) and the gel from A. vera (GE), respectively. The treatment of human fibroblasts with FE at a dose of 0.5% increased collagen production by up to 170% and inhibited MMP-1 synthesis to 48%, which is likely due to its high antioxidant activity because the WE and GE showed markedly lower effects compared with those of the FE. Interestingly, the FE exhibited a profile dominated by relatively low-molecular-weight (MW) polysaccharides: 20% of the total polysaccharides in the FE were in the MW weight range of 600 to 900, whereas 95% of the total polysaccharides in the GE were in the MW range of 200,000 to 300,000. This result suggests that the larger polysaccharide molecules in the extract might be broken down during lactic acid fermentation, and the easy penetration of the small molecules in the extract into fibroblast cells thus results in improved anti-skin wrinkling effects. This conclusion is also supported by the finding that the FE and WE, but not the GE, contained similar amounts of barbaloin, a strong antioxidant eluted from A. arborescens through the fermentation process. Therefore, this study strongly indicates that the enhanced anti-skin wrinkling effects of the FE are most likely due to synergistic effects between the barbaloin and the low-MW polysaccharides retained after the fermentation process.

Topical Proretinal Nanoparticles: Biological Activities, Epidermal Proliferation and Differentiation, Follicular Penetration, and Skin Tolerability

Proretinal nanoparticles, the retinilidene-chitosan nanoparticles, have been developed to overcome the physicochemical instability of retinal and to lessen the dose-dependent cutaneous irritation, through sustaining the release of retinoid. Compared to conventional retinal at the same concentration, proretinal nanoparticles had no cytotoxicity and could induce a spontaneously immortalized human keratinocyte line to express more cellular retinoic acid binding protein-2. Compared to rats topically applied with conventional retinal which showed clear skin irritation and inflammation, daily topical application of proretinal nanoparticles to rats for 28 consecutive days produced neither irritation nor inflammation but significantly increased epidermal proliferation, epidermal thickness, cellular retinoic acid binding protein- 2 expression, and up-regulation of various differentiation markers including keratin 5, keratin 10, keratin 14, cellular retinoic acid binding protein-2, and proliferating cell nuclear antigen. Through the use of confocal laser scanning microscopy, we observed the in vivo follicular penetration of proretinal nanoparticles with the depth of penetration independent of postapplication time. Proretinal nanoparticles provide better biological activities of retinoids on epidermis and could eliminate the side effect of retinoid dermatitis.

The Impact of Herbal Products in the Prevention, Regeneration and Delay of Skin Aging

Skin aging is a complex process induced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors and causes alterations to the structural and functional aspects of the skin. Skin aging affects patients physically and physiologically. Understanding the process of skin aging can provide new knowledge on how to attenuate or reduce skin disorder symptoms. Herbs have been used for ages to prevent and treat skin aging, yet there are growing interests by researchers in this field globally. Various strategies have been developed for improving the quality and effectivity of herbal skin care products, both for topical and oral applications. This review will provide an overview of the relationship between herbal skin care products and the skin aging process.

The Protective Effect of Violaxanthin from Nannochloropsis oceanica against Ultraviolet B-Induced Damage in Normal Human Dermal Fibroblasts

Skin photoaging, which is mainly induced by ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation, is prevented by the application of UV-protective agents. The microalga Nannochloropsis oceanica (N. oceanica) has been primarily reported as a potential biofuel; however, in this study, we investigated whether N. oceanica extracts exerted photoprotective effects against UVB-irradiated human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) and which single component was responsible for the protective effect of the extracts. Two extracts-pigment and nonpigment-were prepared from N. oceanica biomass. WST-1 assay and expression analysis of interleukin genes showed that the pigment extracts were not significantly cytotoxic to HDFs. Further experiments revealed that treatment with the pigment extract upregulated the expression of collagen genes and significantly blocked UVB-induced damage such as decreased cell viability and increased ROS production. Next, to investigate the pigment composition of the extracts, HPLC analysis was conducted and violaxanthin was identified as the major pigment. The UVB photoprotective effect of the pigment extracts was confirmed in violaxanthin-treated HDFs. In addition, violaxanthin significantly attenuated UVB-induced G1 phase arrest, senescence-associated β-galactosidase activation, p16 and p21 upregulation, ERK phosphorylation and the downregulation of ECM molecules in HDFs. Therefore, we concluded that violaxanthin was a potential antiphotoaging agent.