The high intensity diffractometer for residual stress analysis (HIDRA), a third generation residual stress mapping neutron diffractometer at the high flux isotope reactor

This paper describes the hardware and software upgrades, operation, and performance of the high intensity diffractometer for residual stress analysis (HIDRA) instrument, a residual stress mapping neutron diffractometer located at the High Flux Isotope Reactor at Oak Ridge National Laboratory in Oak Ridge Tennessee, USA. Following a major upgrade in 2018, the new instrument has a single ³He multiwire 2D 30 × 30 cm² position sensitive detector, yielding a field of view of 17° 2θ. The increase in the field of view (from 4° 2θ) from the previous model instrument has contributed to the tremendous improvement in the out of plane solid angle such that the 3D count rate could be obtained easily. Accordingly, the hardware, software, Data Acquisition System (DAS), and so on have also been updated. Finally, all these enhanced features of HIDRA have been ably demonstrated by conducting multi directional diffraction measurements in the quenched 750-T74 aluminum, and the evolved and improved strain/stress mappings are presented.

Penetration of different molecular weight hydrolysed keratins into hair fibres and their effects on the physical properties of textured hair

Objective

To investigate the effects of different molecular weight (MW), wool derived hydrolysed keratins (i.e. peptides) on the physical properties of relaxed textured hair.

Methods

Very curly hair of African origin was relaxed using sodium hydroxide‐based treatment. Relaxed hair was treated with different MW peptides derived from keratin protein and an amino acid, L‐Leucine. The low‐MW keratin peptides were 221 Da, the mid‐MW keratin peptides were approximately 2577 Da, and the high‐MW keratin peptides were approximately 75 440 Da. The penetration of these different peptides into relaxed hair was evaluated using a laser scanning micrometre and by fluorescence microscopy. The effect of these compounds on single‐fibre mechanical properties and thermal properties was evaluated using tensile and DSC testing, respectively.

Results

Low‐ and mid‐MW compounds were able to penetrate deep into the hair cortex. High‐MW peptide adsorbed onto the hair surface and possibly slightly penetrated into the outer layers of the fibre surface. Both mid‐ and high‐MW keratin peptides, increased Young’s modulus and reduced hair breakage at 20% and 80% relative humidity. With the exception of mid‐MW peptide, other peptides and amino acid were not able to modify thermal properties of relaxed textured hair.

Conclusions

Our data suggest that low‐MW compounds may increase hair volume, and high‐MW peptides may repair damage on freshly relaxed textured hair.

A review of shampoo surfactant technology: consumer benefits, raw materials and recent developments

Surfactants form the core of all shampoo formulations, and contribute to a wide range of different benefits, including cleansing, foaming, rheology control, skin mildness and the deposition of benefit agents to the hair and scalp. The purpose of this review was to assist the design of effective, modern, shampoo surfactant technologies. The mechanisms through which surfactants help deliver their effects are presented, along with the appraisal techniques through which surfactant options can be tested and screened for product development. The steps that should be taken to select the most appropriate blend of surfactants are described, and useful information on the most widely used surfactants is provided. The review concludes with an examination of recent developments in 'greener' surfactants, 'sulphate-free' technologies and structured liquid phases for novel sensory properties and for suspending benefit agents.

Wide-angle X-ray diffraction of human stratum corneum: effects of hydration and terpene enhancer treatment

Wide-angle X-ray-diffraction experiments were used to investigate the molecular organization of barrier components of human stratum corneum. Diffraction lines related to the side-by-side lipid packing arrangements in the intercellular bilayers were identified as were patterns arising from secondary protein structures in intracellular keratin. Reflections were also identified which may be produced by proteins in the corneocyte envelopes. The effects of hydration on stratum corneum structure were monitored using 0, 20-40, 40-60, 60-80 and approximately 300% hydrated samples. The packing arrangements in the intercellular lipid bilayers remained the same over the entire hydration range, as did keratin structures. A new diffraction ring, attributable to liquid water, was produced by 300% hydrated samples with a repeat spacing of 0.35 to 0.30-0.29 nm. The effects of three terpene enhancers, (+)-limonene, nerolidol and 1,8-cineole, on stratum corneum structure were monitored. Treatment with each of the terpenes produced additional reflections which were attributed to the presence of the respective liquid enhancers within the stratum corneum. (+)-Limonene produced an additional reflection at 0.503-0.489 nm, nerolidol, an additional reflection at 0.486-0.471 nm and 1,8-cineole, an intense reflection at 0.583-0.578 nm. Reflections characteristic of gel-phase lipids and crystalline lipids also remained after all terpene treatments. These results provide no clear evidence of lipid bilayer disruption by the terpenes and suggest that areas of liquid terpene exist within the stratum corneum. The mechanisms underlying propylene glycol synergy with terpene enhancers were investigated. Treatment of stratum corneum with each terpene mixed with propylene glycol gave rise to two additional reflections. One reflection, always positioned at 0.452-0.448 nm, had been observed in control studies following propylene glycol treatment and may have been associated with bilayer structures disrupted by propylene glycol or altered keratin structures. The second reflection was developed by the respective terpene enhancer. For example, treatment with a 1,8-cineole/propylene glycol mixture produced reflections at 0.457-0.451 nm (propylene glycol-disrupted lipids or altered keratin) and 0.591-0.578 nm (liquid 1,8-cineole). Since the reflection at 0.452-0.448 nm was unaffected by co-application of propylene glycol with terpene enhancers, this study offers no evidence to support the theory that propylene glycol synergy with the terpenes occurs through enhanced lipid disruption.

Sesquiterpene components of volatile oils as skin penetration enhancers for the hydrophilic permeant 5-fluorouracil

Twelve sesquiterpene compounds, derived from natural volatile oils, were investigated as putative skin penetration enhancers for human skin. Pretreatment of epidermal membranes with sesquiterpene oils, or solid sesquiterpenes saturated in dimethyl isosorbide, increased the rate of absorption of the model hydrophilic permeant, 5-fluorouracil (5-FU). Enhancers with polar functional groups were generally more potent than pure hydrocarbons. Furthermore, enhancers with the least bunched structures were the most active. The largest effect was observed following pretreatment with nerolidol, which increased pseudo-steady-state 5-FU flux over 20-fold. Molecular modelling suggested that terpenes with structures suitable for alignment within lipid lamellae were the most potent enhancers. Sesquiterpene enhancers had long durations of action implying that they did not wash out of the skin easily. This study attempted to improve enhancer clearance by replacing the aqueous donor and receptor phases by ethanol:water (1:1) solutions. Ethanol increased the permeability coefficient for 5-FU 13-fold, demonstrating that, in aqueous solution, it is a moderately potent penetration enhancer. Sesquiterpene and ethanol enhancement effects were approximately additive. Sesquiterpene effects were almost fully maintained for at least 4.5 days following pretreatment, illustrating poor reversibility. Stratum corneum/water drug partitioning studies suggested that an important mechanism of action of the enhancers was to increase the apparent drug diffusivity in the stratum corneum. Increases in drug partitioning into the entire stratum corneum following enhancer pretreatment were relatively small. Diffusivity increases were directly related to overall rises in permeability. This study has shown that sesquiterpene compounds, which are of low toxicity and cutaneous irritancy, can promote 5-FU absorption across human skin. Sesquiterpene compounds, therefore, show promise as clinically-acceptable skin penetration enhancers.