Development of Hinoline® as a natural preservative for cosmetic product using bioinspiration and Greenpharma Database

AIMS

The cosmetic industry needs new preservatives that are effective, natural, safe, cost effective, sustainable and compliant with regulatory standards. This necessity has posed challenges requiring obligations, bioinformatics and bioinspiration as driving forces.

METHODS AND RESULTS

Twenty natural extracts were selected from the Greenpharma Database with parameter filters corresponding to development constraints and antimicrobial properties. We confirmed using minimum inhibition concentration (MIC) assays that eight of the extracts have good bactericidal properties and that one has a high antifungal activity. The latter was purified hinokitiol, a bioproduct from Aomori Hiba wood. This substance provides high resistance against putrefaction; for instance, old Japanese temples were made of Aomori Hiba wood. The combination of hinokitiol with levulinic acid, another bioproduct, demonstrated complementary antimicrobial activities and synergistic effects in MIC studies and measurements according to Kull synergy index. Further, the mixture Hinoline® was tested at 2% in challenge tests and fulfilled criteria A of different standards. It also exerted complementary preservative effects with potassium sorbate and beneficial effects in unbalanced skin microbiota.

CONCLUSION

Hinoline, a new effective preservative from renewable bioresources, was developed.

SIGNIFICANCE AND IMPACT OF THE STUDY

This study accelerates the development of a preservative solution for cosmetics selected from Greenpharma Database, through bioinspiration and the identification of cost-effective investments and resources.

Preliminary screening of some tropical plants for anti-tyrosinase activity

In our efforts to find new active tyrosinase inhibitors for skin-whitening or antibrowning preparations, we investigated 67 tropical plants belonging to 38 families, which were evaluated for their anti-tyrosinase activity. The results of our investigation show that extracts of 5 plants, Stryphnodendron barbatimao, Portulaca pilosa, Cariniana brasiliensis, Entada africana and Prosopis africana present interesting in vitro mushroom tyrosinase inhibition (over 90%), similar to a positive control: Morus alba. These 5 plants will be studied in order to isolate and identify phytochemical compounds, involved in this biological activity.

Mapping the active site of factor Xa by selective inhibitors: an NMR and MD study

The structure of two selective inhibitors, Ac-Tyr-Ile-Arg-Ile-Pro-NH2 and Ac-(4-Amino-Phe)-(Cyclohexyl-Gly)-Arg-NH2, in the active site of the blood clotting enzyme factor Xa was determined by using transferred nuclear Overhauser effect nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopy. They represent a family of peptidic inhibitors obtained by the screening of a vast combinatorial library. Each structure was first calculated by using standard computational procedures (distance geometry, simulated annealing, energy minimization) and then further refined by systematic search of the conformation of the inhibitor docked in the active site and repeating the simulated annealing and energy minimization. The final structure was optimized by molecular dynamics simulations of the inhibitor-complex in water. The NMR restraints were kept throughout the refinement. The inhibitors assume a compact, very well defined conformation, embedded into the substrate binding site not in the same way as a substrate, blocking thus the catalysis. The model allows to explain the mode of action, affinity, and specificity of the peptides and to map the active site.

7Li nuclear-magnetic-resonance study of lithium binding to myo-inositolmonophosphatase

The interaction of Li+ with myo-inositol monophosphatase was studied by 7Li-NMR spectroscopy. Li+ binding to the enzyme induces a downfield shift and broadening of the 7Li-NMR signal. Changes of the chemical shift were used to follow the titration of the enzyme with lithium and to determine a dissociation constant, Kd = (1.0 +/- 0.1) mM. Only one major binding site/enzyme subunit was inferred. The complex forms independently of the presence of inorganic phosphate. Metals from the group IIa of the periodic table compete with Li+ binding with the affinity increasing in the order Mg2+ < Ca2+ < Be2+. In contrast to lithium, their binding is enhanced by phosphate.