Anti-glycation activities of methyl gallate in vitro and in human explants

BACKGROUND

The build-up of advanced glycation end products (AGEs) is one of important factor of skin aging. Natural compounds with anti-glycation activities might have great anti-aging potential.

AIMS

The objective of this study was to evaluate an anti-glycation effects of methyl gallate as a potent ingredient for anti-aging.

METHODS

We first evaluated the AGEs inhibitory ability of methyl gallate in BSA/glucose system. Levels of Nε-CML and carbonyl contents were also measured in BSA/glucose system. To further investigate if methyl gallate could prevent glycation in full-thickness human skin explants. Glycation action was determined by the observation of the general morphology of dermis and epidermis structures and FBN-1 and of CML immunostaining. In an in-vivo study, primary irritation test was also performed to ensure the safety of methyl gallate for human skin.

RESULTS

It is known that methyl gallate can suppress glycation reaction between BSA and glucose. Methyl gallate also has a remarkable potential to reduce the oxidation of proteins. Furthermore, the anti-glycation activity of methyl gallate has been confirmed in a human skin ex-vivo model. Methyl gallate decreased the expression of CML but stimulated the expression of FBN-1 compared with MGO treatment. In an in-vivo study, methyl gallate (0.1%) did not cause any skin irritation, suggesting that methyl gallate could be used as an active ingredient in cosmetics.

CONCLUSION

Our results showed that methyl gallate could protect against glucose-mediated glycation in vitro. Furthermore, methyl gallate significantly prevented glycation in living human skin explants. Due to these beneficial effects, methyl gallate can be used to prevent or manage AGE-mediated skin aging.

Tasmannia lanceolata leaf extract alleviates stretch mark appearance in a randomized, placebo-controlled clinical trial in women and stimulates extracellular matrix synthesis in ex vivo human skin explants

BACKGROUND

The leaves of Tasmannia lanceolata mainly contain polygodial that is known to exhibit a range of biological functions including anti-inflammatory effects.

AIMS

These studies aimed to assess the effects of Tasmannia lanceolata extract (TLE) on skin and more particularly on stretch marks in women.

PATIENTS/METHODS

A double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled clinical study was carried out on 29 women, aged from 25 to 60 years, to investigate the effects of TLE on stabilized stretch marks. TLE and placebo products were topically applied daily for 8 weeks. Skin roughness and firmness of stretch marks were assessed by 2D and 3D photograph processing and analyses. Dermal density and thickness were evaluated using ultrasound, while stretch mark conditions (length, color, and depth) were determined by clinical scoring. Matricial proteins (pro-collagen I and elastin) and pro-matricial factors, like TGF-β concentrations, were quantified from cultures of human skin explants presenting stretch marks, treated with TLE or vehicle control.

RESULTS

Skin roughness of stretch marks was significantly reduced in the TLE group after 8 weeks of treatment. Skin firmness of stretch marks was significantly increased in the TLE group after 4 weeks of treatment, and this improved effect was maintained until the end of the study. Dermal density and thickness were significantly increased in the TLE group compared to the placebo group. Furthermore, TLE restored the dermal condition of the stretch mark skin, up to normal skin levels. In addition, pro-collagen I and elastin concentrations were found to be higher in the TLE-treated stretch mark skin explants compared to the untreated ones, associated with higher quantities of TGF-β production.

CONCLUSION

These results revealed that TLE could help improve the aspect of stabilized stretch marks in women by restoring the matricial environment.

Comparison of the metabolism of 10 cosmetics-relevant chemicals in EpiSkin™ S9 subcellular fractions and in vitro human skin explants

An understanding of the bioavailability of topically applied cosmetics ingredients is key to predicting their local skin and systemic toxicity and making a safety assessment. We investigated whether short-term incubations with S9 from the reconstructed epidermal skin model, EpiSkin™, would give an indication of the rate of chemical metabolism and produce similar metabolites to those formed in incubations with human skin explants. Both have advantages: EpiSkin™ S9 is a higher-throughput assay, while the human skin explant model represents a longer incubation duration (24 hours) model integrating cutaneous distribution with metabolite formation. Here, we compared the metabolism of 10 chemicals (caffeine, vanillin, cinnamyl alcohol, propylparaben, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, resorcinol, 4-chloroaniline, 2-amino-3-methyl-3H-imidazo[4,5-F]quinoline and 2-acetyl aminofluorene) in both models. Both models were shown to have functional Phase 1 and 2 enzymes, including cytochrome P450 activities. There was a good concordance between the models with respect to the level of metabolism (stable vs. slowly vs. extensively metabolized chemicals) and major early metabolites produced for eight chemicals. Discordant results for two chemicals were attributed to a lack of the appropriate cofactor (NADP⁺ ) in S9 incubations (cinnamyl alcohol) and protein binding influencing chemical uptake in skin explants (4-chloroaniline). These data support the use of EpiSkin™ S9 as a screening assay to provide an initial indication of the metabolic stability of a chemical applied topically. If required, chemicals that are not metabolized by EpiSkin™ S9 can be tested in longer-term incubations with in vitro human explant skin to determine whether it is slowly metabolized or not metabolized at all.

Ameliorating Effect of Akebia quinata Fruit Extracts on Skin Aging Induced by Advanced Glycation End Products

The accumulation of free radicals and advanced glycation end products (AGEs) in the skin plays a very important role in skin aging. Both are known to interact with each other. Therefore, natural compounds or extracts that possess both antioxidant and antiglycation activities might have great antiageing potential. Akebia quinata fruit extract (AQFE) has been used to treat urinary tract inflammatory disease in traditional Korean and Chinese medicines. In the present study, AQFE was demonstrated to possess antioxidant and antiglycation activity. AQFE protects human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) from oxidative stress and inhibits cellular senescence induced by oxidative stress. We also found that AQFE inhibits glycation reaction between BSA and glucose. The antiglycation activity of AQFE was dose-dependent. In addition, the antiglycation activity of AQFE was confirmed in a human skin explant model. AQFE reduced CML expression and stimulated fibrillin-1 expression in comparison to the methyglyoxal treatment. In addition, the possibility of the extract as an anti-skin aging agent has also been clinically validated. Our analysis of the crow’s feet wrinkle showed that there was a decrease in the depth of deep furrows in RI treated with AQFE cream over an eight-week period. The overall results suggest that AQFE may work as an anti-skin aging agent by preventing oxidative stress and other complications associated with AGEs formation.

Anti-glycation activities of phenolic constituents from Silybum marianum (Milk Thistle) flower in vitro and on human explants

Glycation is an ageing reaction of naturally occurring sugars with dermal proteins, with clinical signs appearing in vivo around age 30, and increasing steadily/regularly with age. The suppleness of the dermis is affected by the formation of bridges between proteins and sugars (Maillard's reaction). The accumulation of advanced glycation end products (AGEs) in skin plays a very important role in skin ageing. Therefore, natural compounds or extracts that possess antiglycation activities may have great anti-ageing potential. In the present study, Silybum marianum flower extract (SMFE) was demonstrated to possess antiglycation activity. We found that SMFE inhibits glycation reaction between BSA and glucose. In addition, antiglycation activity of SMFE was confirmed in a human skin explants model. SMFE reduced Nε-(carboxymethyl) lysine (CML) expression, whereas SMFE stimulated fibrillin-1 expression compared to treatment with methyglyoxal. An active ingredient contributing to the observed activities was identified as silibinin. The antiglycation activity of silibinin was dose-dependent. The beneficial effects of silibinin may be applied to prevention or management of AGE-mediated pathologies, targeting in a pleiotropic and complementary way the biochemical and cellular bases of skin aging.