Skin photoprotection by natural polyphenols: anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and DNA repair mechanisms

Anti-Skin Inflammatory and Anti-Oxidative Effects of the Neoflavonoid Latifolin Isolated from Dalbergia odorifera in HaCaT and BJ-5ta Cells

Skin is the first line of defense in the body against external stimulation and injury. Inflammation and oxidative stress in skin cells are the initiators and promoters of several skin diseases. Latifolin is a natural flavonoid isolated from Dalbergia odorifera T. Chen. This study aimed to evaluate the anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties of latifolin. The anti-inflammatory effects were evaluated using tumor necrosis factor-α/interferon-γ (TNF-α/IFN-γ)-treated HaCaT cells, revealing that latifolin inhibited the secretion of Interleukin 6 (IL-6); Interleukin 8 (IL-8); Regulated upon Activation, Normal T Cell Expressed and Presumably Secreted (RANTES); and Macrophage-derived chemokine (MDC) while decreasing the expression of Intercellular Adhesion Molecule 1 (ICAM-1). The results of western blots and immunofluorescence demonstrated that the activation of Janus kinase 2 (JAK2), Signal transducer and activator of transcription 1 (STAT1), Signal transducer and activator of transcription 3 (STAT3), and nuclear factor kappa-light-chain-enhancer of activated B (NF-κB) cells signaling pathways were significantly inhibited by latifolin. The antioxidant properties were evaluated using t-BHP-induced BJ-5ta cells. Latifolin increased the viability of t-BHP-induced BJ-5ta cells. Additionally, fluorescent staining of reactive oxygen species (ROS) showed that the production of ROS was inhibited by latifolin. Additionally, latifolin reduced the phosphorylation of p38 and JNK. The results indicate that latifolin has potential anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, and may be a candidate natural compound for the treatment of skin diseases.

Phytochemicals in Cancer Treatment and Cancer Prevention-Review on Epidemiological Data and Clinical Trials

Phytochemicals are a non-nutritive substances that are present in plants and contribute significantly to their flavor and color. These biologically active compounds are classified into five major groups, namely phenolics, carotenoids, organosulfur compounds, nitrogen-containing compounds, and alkaloids, and are known for their potential health benefits in the prevention of various diseases, including cancer. The purpose of this review article is to explore the potential therapeutic benefits of the dietary phytochemicals, such as flavonoids, phenolic acids, phytosterols, carotenoids, and stilbenes, in cancer treatment and prevention based on the epidemiological studies and clinical trials. Although the majority of epidemiological studies report a significant advantage of the heightened phytochemical consumption and increased serum levels of these compounds, linking increased exposure with a lower cancer risk across most cancer types, these effects could not be replicated in the most available clinical trials. In fact, many of these trials were withdrawn early due to a lack of evidence and/or risk of harm. Despite the strong anticancer effect of phytochemicals, as well as their proven efficacy in multiple epidemiological studies, there is still a great need for human studies and clinical trials, with great caution regarding the safety measures. This review article provides an overview of the epidemiological and clinical evidence supporting the potential chemopreventive and anticancer properties of phytochemicals, with a focus on the need for further research in this area.

Hydroxypropyl-β-Cyclodextrin-Glycerol-Assisted Extraction of Phenolics from Satureja montana L.: Optimization, Anti-Elastase and Anti-Hyaluronidase Properties of the Extracts

A green method for hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin-glycerol-assisted extraction (HCGAE) of bioactive phenolics from S. montana, Lamiaceae was optimized using Box-Behnken design and response surface methodology and compared conventional water/ethanol-based extraction. The procedure was aimed at obtaining extracts with the maximum content of total phenols (TP), flavonoids (TF), dihydroxycinnamic acids (TDCA), rosmarinic acid (RA), and luteolin 7-O-glucoside (LG). The impact of glycerol content (0–70%), 2-hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin content (0–0.4 mmol), temperature (20–70 °C), herbal material weight (0.3–0.8 g), extraction duration (5–25 min), and ultrasound power (144–720 W) on the extraction efficiency was analyzed. Four extracts with maximum amounts of target phenols, OPT-TP (5.93 mg/mL), OPT-TDCA-RA (4.17 mg/mL and 1.16 mg/mL, respectively), OPT-TF (0.99 mg/mL), and OPT-LG (0.28 mg/mL) were prepared. Comparison of the content of TDCA, TF, RA, and LG with those obtained in water/ethanol-based extraction demonstrated the superiority of the HCGAE approach for the extraction of phenols from S. montana. The extracts displayed good anti-elastase and excellent anti-hyaluronidase activity. IC50 values of the anti-hyaluronidase activity (1.67 ± 0.06 μL extract/mL, 1.16 ± 0.08 μL extract/mL, 0.85 ± 0.03 μL extract/mL, and 0.79 ± 0.05 μL extract/mL for OPT-TP, OPT-TDCA-RA, OPT-TF, and OPT-LG, respectively) surpassed that of the applied positive control, tannic acid. The observed bioactivity of the optimized extracts makes them promising active ingredients for natural cosmetics. The results of this research indicate that HCGAE is an excellent alternative to conventional water/ethanol-based extraction of phenolics from Satureja montana L.-yielding extracts with potent anti-elastase and anti-hyaluronidase properties suitable for direct use in cosmetic products.

Hydroxypropyl-β-Cyclodextrin-Based Helichrysum italicum Extracts: Antioxidant and Cosmeceutical Activity and Biocompatibility

Two Helichrysum italicum extracts, OPT-1 (rich in phenolic acids) and OPT-2 (rich in total phenols and flavonoids), were prepared using hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin (HP-β-CD)-assisted extraction. The prepared extracts were rich in phenolic compounds, including flavonoids and phenolic acids. GC-MS analysis of the extracts identified neryl acetate, neo-intermedeol, β-selinene, γ-curcumene, italidione I, and nerol as the main volatile components of the extracts, as well as plant sterols, γ-sitosterol, campesterol, and stigmasterol. The antioxidant (DPPH radical scavenging, reducing power, and a carotene linoleic acid assay) and cosmeceutical (anti-hyaluronidase, anti-tyrosinase, anti-lipoxygenase, ovalbumin anti-coagulation, and a UV-absorption assay) activity of the extracts in most of the assays was better than the activity of the applied positive controls. Especially low were the IC50 values of the extracts in the anti-hyaluronidase (14.31 ± 0.29 μL extract/mL and 19.82 ± 1.53 μL extract/mL for OPT-1 and OPT-2, respectively) and the anti-lipoxygenase (0.96 ± 0.11 μL extract/mL and 1.07 ± 0.01 μL extract/mL for OPT-1 and OPT-2, respectively) assays. The extracts were non-toxic to HaCaT cells in concentrations of up to 62.5 µL extract/mL assuring their status as excellent candidates for cosmeceutical product development appropriate for direct use in cosmetic products without solvent evaporation.

Amaryllidaceae alkaloids in skin cancer management: Photoprotective effect on human keratinocytes and anti-proliferative activity in melanoma cells

Skin cancer has high rates of mortality and therapeutic failure. In this study, to develop a multi-agent strategy for skin cancer management, the selective cytotoxicity of several alkaloid fractions and pure alkaloids isolated from Amaryllidaceae species was evaluated in melanoma cells. In addition, UVB-stimulated keratinocytes (HaCaT) were exposed to seven alkaloid fractions characterized by GC-MS, and the production of intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) and IL-6, were measured to evaluate their photoprotection effects. The Eucharis caucana (bulb) alkaloid fraction (20 μg/ml) had a clear effect on the viability of melanoma cells, reducing it by 45.7% without affecting healthy keratinocytes. This alkaloid fraction and tazettine (both at 2.5 μg/ml) suppressed UVB-induced ROS production by 31.6% and 29.4%, respectively. The highest anti-inflammatory potential was shown by the Zephyranthes carinata (bulb) alkaloid fraction (10 μg/ml), which reduced IL-6 production by 90.8%. According to the chemometric analysis, lycoramine and tazettine had a photoprotective effect on the UVB-exposed HaCaT cells, attenuating the production of ROS and IL-6. These results suggest that Amaryllidaceae alkaloids have photoprotective and therapeutic potential in skin cancer management, especially at low concentrations.

Anti-Inflammatory, Antimicrobial, Antioxidant and Photoprotective Investigation of Red Propolis Extract as Sunscreen Formulation in Polawax Cream

Many activities have been described for propolis, including, antiviral, antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, immunoregulatory, antioxidant and wound healing properties. Recently, propolis has been highlighted due to its potential application in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries, motivating a better understanding of its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. Propolis and its main polyphenolic compounds presented high antioxidant activity, and effectiveness as broad spectrum UVB and UVA photoprotection sunscreens. Through a qualitative phytochemical screening, the ethanolic red propolis extracts (EEPV) (70% at room temperature and 70% at a hot temperature) presented a positive result for flavonoids and terpenoids. It presented an antioxidant activity for reducing 50% of DPPH of 17 and 12 μg/mL for extraction at room temperature and at a hot temperature, respectively. The UPLC-QTOF-MS/MS analysis allowed the annotation of 40 substances for EEPV-Heated and 42 substances for EEPV-Room Temperature. The IC50 results of the ABTS scavenging activity was 4.7 μg/mL for both extractions, at room temperature and at a hot temperature. Additionally, we also evaluated the cytotoxic profile of propolis extracts against macrophage (RAW 264.7 cells) and keratinocytes (HaCaT cells), which showed non-cytotoxic doses in cell viability assays even after a long period of exposure. In addition, propolis extracts showed antibacterial activity for Gram-positive bacteria (Staphylococcus aureus and Staphylococcus epidermidis), demonstrating potential biological activity for the creation of formulations aimed at disease control and prevention.

Antiphotoaging and Skin-Protective Activities of Ardisia silvestris Ethanol Extract in Human Keratinocytes

Ardisia silvestris is a traditional medicinal herb used in Vietnam and several other countries. However, the skin-protective properties of A. silvestris ethanol extract (As-EE) have not been evaluated. Human keratinocytes form the outermost barrier of the skin and are the main target of ultraviolet (UV) radiation. UV exposure causes skin photoaging via the production of reactive oxygen species. Protection from photoaging is thus a key component of dermatological and cosmetic products. In this research, we found that As-EE can prevent UV-induced skin aging and cell death as well as enhance the barrier effect of the skin. First, the radical-scavenging ability of As-EE was checked using DPPH, ABTS, TPC, CUPRAC, and FRAP assays, and a 3-(4-5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2-5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide assay was used to examine cytotoxicity. Reporter gene assays were used to determine the doses that affect skin-barrier-related genes. A luciferase assay was used to identify possible transcription factors. The anti-photoaging mechanism of As-EE was investigated by determining correlated signaling pathways using immunoblotting analyses. As-EE had no harmful effects on HaCaT cells, according to our findings, and As-EE revealed moderate radical-scavenging ability. With high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis, rutin was found to be one of the major components. In addition, As-EE enhanced the expression levels of hyaluronic acid synthase-1 and occludin in HaCaT cells. Moreover, As-EE dose-dependently up-regulated the production of occludin and transglutaminase-1 after suppression caused by UVB blocking the activator protein-1 signaling pathway, in particular, the extracellular response kinase and c-Jun N-terminal kinase. Our findings suggest that As-EE may have anti-photoaging effects by regulating mitogen-activated protein kinase, which is good news for the cosmetics and dermatology sectors.

Molecular basis of skin photoaging and therapeutic interventions by plant-derived natural product ingredients: A comprehensive review

Skin areas exposed to ultraviolet radiation (UV) from sunlight are more prone to photoaging than unexposed areas evidenced by several signs which include skin dryness, irregular pigmentation, lentigines, hyperpigmentation, wrinkling, and decreased elasticity. Plant-based natural product ingredients with therapeutic potential against skin photoaging are gaining more attention. This article aims the reviewing the research work done in exploring the cellular and molecular mechanisms involved in UV-induced skin photoaging, followed by summarizing the mechanistic insights involved in its therapeutics by natural product-based ingredients. In the mechanistic section of the convoluted procedure of photoaging, we described the effect of UV radiation (UVR) on different cellular macromolecules (direct damage) and subsequently, the deleterious consequences of UVR-generated reactive oxygen species (indirect damage) and signaling pathways activated or inhibited by UV induced ROS generation in various cellular pathologies of skin photoaging like inflammation, extracellular matrix degradation, apoptosis, mitochondrial dysfunction, and immune suppression. We also discussed the effect of UV radiation on the adipose tissue, and transient receptor potential cation channel V of photoaging skin. In the past few decades, mechanistic studies performed in this area have deciphered various therapeutic targets, opening avenues for different available therapeutic options against this pathological condition. So the remaining portion of the review deals with various natural product-based therapeutic agents available against skin photodamage.

Grape Seed Components as Protectors of Inflammation, DNA Damage, and Cancer

PURPOSE OF REVIEW

Oxidative stress is related to the pathogenesis of several chronic diseases, including inflammatory processes. Free radicals excess increase not only oxidative stress but also genomic instability. Polyphenols are non-enzymatic antioxidants that act as a defense barrier against free radicals and non-radical oxidants. The purpose of this article was to review published articles relating dietary polyphenols contained in grape seed proanthocyanidin extracts with its potential for reversing DNA damage.

RECENT FINDINGS

Proanthocyanidin components exert pleiotropic actions having several biological, biochemical, and significant pharmacological effects and showed the ability to reduce cytotoxicity and genotoxicity. Grape seed proanthocyanidin extracts showed the ability to reduce cytotoxicity and genotoxicity through the comet assay and the micronucleus technique.

Natural Polymers and Cosmeceuticals for a Healthy and Circular Life: The Examples of Chitin, Chitosan, and Lignin

The present review considers the design and introduction of new cosmeceuticals in the market, based on natural polymers and active molecules extracted from biomass, in a biomimetic strategy, starting with a consideration of the biochemical mechanisms, followed by natural precision biopolymer production. After introducing the contest of nanobiotechnology in relationship with its applicability for skin contact products and classifying the currently available sustainable polymers, some widely selected abundant biopolymers (chitin, chitosan, and lignin), showing specific functionalities (anti-microbial, anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, etc.), are described, especially considering the possibility to combine them in nanostructured tissues, powders, and coatings for producing new cosmeceuticals, but with potentialities in other sectors, such as biomedical, personal care, and packaging sectors. After observing the general increase in market wellness and beauty forecasts over the next few years, parallelisms between nano and macro scales have suggested that nanobiotechnology application expresses the necessity to follow a better way of producing, selecting, and consuming goods that will help to transform the actual linear economy in a circular economy, based on redesigning, reducing, recycling, and reusing.

Strawberry Fragaria x ananassa cv. Festival: A Polyphenol-Based Phytochemical Characterization in Fruit and Leaf Extracts

Berry fruits are an important dietary source of health-promoting antioxidant polyphenols. Interestingly, berry leaves of diverse species, including strawberries, have shown higher bioactive phytochemical content in the leaves than in the fruit. Moreover, the vegetative part of the plants is usually discarded, representing a presumably large source of underutilized bioactive biomass. In this investigation, the polyphenol profiles of tropical highland strawberry (Fragaria x ananassa cv. Festival) leaves and fruits were compared by high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with a diode array detector (UHPLC-DAD) and mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS). The total polyphenol strawberry leaf extracts exhibited a 122-fold-higher total polyphenol content and 13-fold higher antioxidant activity (ORAC) than strawberry fruits, and they showed evidence of possible photoprotective effects against UV damage in human melanoma cells (SK-MEL-28) and in murine embryo fibroblasts (NIH/3T3), together with promising anti-proliferative activities against the same melanoma cells. Seven polyphenols were confirmed by HPLC-DAD in the leaf extracts, with differences depending on fraction solubility. Moreover, three substituted quercetin derivatives, three substituted kaempferol derivatives, two anthocyanins, and catechin were confirmed in the soluble fraction by HPLC-MS. Given their higher total polyphenol content and bioactive activities, underutilized strawberry Festival leaves are a potential source of apparently abundant biomass with prospective bioactive applications.

Kinkéliba (Combretum micranthum) Leaf Extract Alleviates Skin Inflammation: In Vitro and In Vivo Study

Kinkéliba (Combretum micranthum, Seh-Haw in Wolof) is a popular bush tea in West African countries. Although the kinkéliba plant's leaves have been widely consumed for its nutritional and medicinal properties, its benefits on skin health potential have been practically untouched. In human epidermal primary keratinocytes, vitexin and isovitexin-rich kinkéliba extract treatment significantly (p < 0.001) enhanced up to 39.6% of the cell survival rate decreased by UV radiation irritation. The treatment of kinkéliba leaf extracts also reduced the production of UV-induced pro-inflammatory cytokines IL-6 and IL-8 by 57.6% and 42.5%, respectively (p < 0.001), which cause skin redness and skin barrier dysfunction, as well as wrinkles and collagen degradation. The anti-inflammation efficacy of kinkéliba leaf extracts might involve significant inhibition on the levels of cellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) (-70.8%, p < 0.001) and nitrotyrosine (-56.9%, p < 0.05). Further topical applications of kinkéliba leaf extract gel were found to reduce sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)-induced skin inflammation: at D7, the skin trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin redness (a* value) were both reduced by 59.81% (p < 0.001) and 22.4% (p < 0.001), compared with D0. In vitro and in vivo data support a new topical application of the kinkéliba leaf as an effective active ingredient for the treatment of skin inflammation, as well as subsequent barrier dysfunction and inflammaging.

Multifunctional Profiling of Moringa oleifera Leaf Extracts for Topical Application: A Comparative Study of Different Collection Time

This research investigated plant extracts as a source of potential new actives in the nutritional, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical fields. Moringa oleifera, which is extensively known for its nutritional properties, has been investigated in this work by preparation, characterization, and evaluation of the antioxidant (FRAP, DPPH, ORAC, and PCL test), antifungal, photoprotective, and cytotoxicity profile against human melanoma Colo38 cell line of two different extracts (hydroalcoholic and methanolic) and one infusion of dry leaves collected from Paraguay in four distinct harvest times (February, March, April, and May 2017). The outcomes of this study highlight Moringa oleifera as a potential ally to counteract skin aging and oxidative stress, as indicated by the favorable antioxidant profile of the extracts and infusions of Paraguay, which was, in all cases, superior to that provided by the same plant species when collected from Senegal. Moreover, some samples were more efficient in preventing the photodegradation of UVA filter butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) compared to commercial filters, thus suggesting an interesting future role as natural additives in sunscreens.

Bioactive Peptides from Skipjack Tuna Cardiac Arterial Bulbs (II): Protective Function on UVB-Irradiated HaCaT Cells through Antioxidant and Anti-Apoptotic Mechanisms

The aim of this study was to investigate the protective function and mechanism of TCP3 (PKK), TCP6 (YEGGD) and TCP9 (GPGLM) from skipjack tuna cardiac arterial bulbs on skin photoaging using UVB-irradiated HaCaT cell model. The present results indicated that TCP3 (PKK), TCP6 (YEGGD) and TCP9 (GPGLM) had significant cytoprotective effect on UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells (p < 0.001). Hoechst 33342 staining showed that apoptosis of UV-irradiated HaCaT cells could be significantly reduced by the treatment of TCP3 (PKK), TCP6 (YEGGD) and TCP9 (GPGLM); JC-1 staining showed that TCP3 (PKK), TCP6 (YEGGD) and TCP9 (GPGLM) could protect HaCaT cells from apoptosis by restoring mitochondrial membrane potential (MMP); Furthermore, TCP3 (PKK), TCP6 (YEGGD) and TCP9 (GPGLM) could significantly down-regulate the ratio of Bax/Bcl-2 and reduce the expression level of the apoptosis-executing protein Caspase-3 by decreasing the expression of protein Caspase-8 and Caspase-9 (p < 0.05). The action mechanism indicated that TCP3 (PKK), TCP6 (YEGGD) and TCP9 (GPGLM) could up-regulate the expression levels of Nrf2, NQO1 and HO-1 (p < 0.05), which further increased the activity of downstream proteases (SOD, CAT and GSH-Px), and scavenged reactive oxygen species (ROS) and decreased the intracellular levels of malondialdehyde (MDA). In addition, molecular docking indicated that TCP3 (PKK) and TCP6 (YEGGD) could competitively inhibit the Nrf2 binding site because they can occupy the connection site of Nrf2 by binding to the Kelch domain of Keap1 protein. TCP9 (GPGLM) was inferred to be non-competitive inhibition because it could not bind to the active site of the Kelch domain of Keap1 protein. In summary, the antioxidant peptides TCP3 (PKK), TCP6 (YEGGD) and TCP9 (GPGLM) from cardiac arterial bulbs of skipjack tuna can effectively protect HaCaT cells from UVB-irradiated damage and can be used in the development of healthy and cosmetic products to treat diseases caused by UV radiation.

Metabolite Profiling and Bioactivities of Leaves, Stems, and Flowers of Rumex usambarensis (Dammer) Dammer, a Traditional African Medicinal Plant

The comprehensive identification of secondary metabolites represents a fundamental step for the assessment of bioactivities and pharmacological properties of traditional herbal drugs. Rumex usambarensis (Dammer) Dammer has been described as a multipurpose remedy in different African traditional pharmacopoeias, but its phytochemical profile has not been properly investigated. Herein we report a high throughput metabolomic screening, based on ultra-high performance liquid chromatography-travelling wave ion mobility spectrometry quadrupole time-of-flight (UHPLC-TWINS-QTOF), which was performed for the first time on different R. usambarensis plant parts. By applying high-resolution mass spectrometry-based metabolomics and chemometric analysis, a complete discrimination of different aerial parts was obtained, with the annotation of 153 significant metabolites in leaves, stems, and flowers, suggesting an easy authentication and discrimination route. Phytochemical data were correlated to antimicrobial and antioxidant properties. Flavonoids, benzopyranes, chromones, and xanthones derivatives, along with a richer phytocomplex, might be responsible for the stronger bioactivities obtained from flowers.

Preparation of Bioactive De-Chlorophyll Rhein-Rich Senna alata Extract

Senna alata leaves display various biological activities as a result of their rhein and phenolic composition. The objective of this study was to develop bioactive de-chlorophyll rhein-rich S. alata extracts. The rhein content was quantified using a validated high-performance liquid chromatography-diode array detection (HPLC-DAD) method. The best process parameters for maximizing rhein were established using ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE). The optimal conditions for the parameters were determined using the Box-Behnken design (BBD); 95% v/v ethanol was used as the extraction solvent at 59.52 °C for 18.4 min with a solvent-to-solid ratio of 25.48:1 (mL/g) to obtain the predicted value of rhein at 10.44 mg/g extract. However, the color of the rhein-rich extract remained dark brown. For the removal of chlorophyll, liquid-liquid extraction with vegetable oils and adsorption with bleaching agents were employed. The bleaching agents were significantly more effective at removing chlorophyll and had less of an effect on the reduction in rhein content than vegetable oils. The presence of rhein and phenolics in the de-chlorophyll extracts might be responsible for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial activities. These findings indicate that rhein-rich extract and its de-chlorophyll extracts possess sufficient biological activities for the further development of cosmeceuticals and pharmaceuticals.

Potential of the Ethyl Acetate Fraction of Padina boergesenii as a Natural UV Filter in Sunscreen Cream Formulation

Brown seaweeds, due to their wide range of bioactive compounds, have a high ability to inhibit free radicals and protect against ultraviolet rays. In the present study, the ethyl acetate fraction (EF) was isolated from the Padina boergesenii brown seaweed. Antioxidant activity (by the DPPH scavenging activity method) and cytotoxicity against UVB-induced cytotoxicity in HaCaT human keratinocytes were evaluated. Then, this fraction was used as a bio-filter in the formulation of sunscreen, and the physical properties and stability were investigated. The results showed that the EF could inhibit DPPH radical scavenging (54 ± 1%) and cell viability of HaCaT keratinocytes exposed to UVB irradiation (81.2 ± 0.1%). The results of the stability study of the cream formulated with EF showed that at temperatures 4 °C and 25 °C it has high stability; and at 40 °C on the 28th day, a slight decrease in its stability was observed. The pH and Sun Protection Factor of the cream formulated with EF were reported at 5.8 and 20.55, respectively. Also, the DPPH scavenging activity of the cream was not altered for 28 days of storage at temperatures of 4-40 °C. According to our results, it was proved that the sunscreen formulated with EF of P. boergesenii brown seaweed has promising properties and characteristics that can create a new opportunity for the development of cosmetics and skin care products.

Valorization of Bioactive Compounds from By-Products of Matricaria recutita White Ray Florets

In this research, we have reported the valorization possibilities of Matricaria recutita white ray florets using supercritical fluid extraction (SFE) with CO₂. Experiments were conducted at temperatures of 35-55 °C and separation pressures of 5-9 MPa to evaluate their impact on the chemical composition and biological activity of the extracts. The total obtained extraction yields varied from 9.76 to 18.21 g 100 g^-1 DW input. The greatest extraction yield obtained was at 9 MPa separation pressure and 55 °C in the separation tank. In all obtained extracts, the contents of total phenols, flavonoids, tannins, and sugars were determined. The influence of the supercritical CO₂ extraction conditions on the extract antioxidant capacity was evaluated using the quenching activity of 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH). The chemical composition of the extracts was identified using both gas and liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry methods, whereas analyses of major and minor elements as well as heavy metals by microwave plasma atomic emission spectrometer were provided. Moreover, extracts were compared with respect to their antimicrobial activity, as well as the cytotoxicity and phototoxicity of the extracts. The results revealed a considerable diversity in the phytochemical classes among all extracts investigated in the present study and showed that the Matricaria recutita white ray floret by-product possesses cytotoxic and proliferation-reducing activity in immortalized cell lines, as well as antimicrobial activity. To the best of our knowledge, this is the first paper presenting such comprehensive data on the chemical profile, antioxidant properties, and biological properties of SFE derived from Matricaria recutita white ray florets. For the first time, these effects have been studied in processing by-products, and the results generated in this study provide valuable preconditions for further studies in specific test systems to fully elucidate the mechanisms of action and potential applications, such as potential use in cosmetic formulations.

Cerium Oxide Nanoparticles Conjugated with Tannic Acid Prevent UVB-Induced Oxidative Stress in Fibroblasts: Evidence of a Promising Anti-Photodamage Agent

Exposure to ultraviolet radiation induces photodamage towards cellular macromolecules that can progress to photoaging and photocarcinogenesis. The topical administration of compounds that maintain the redox balance in cells presents an alternative approach to combat skin oxidative damage. Cerium oxide nanoparticles (CNPs) can act as antioxidants due to their enzyme-like activity. In addition, a recent study from our group has demonstrated the photoprotective potential of tannic acid (TA). Therefore, this work aimed to synthesize CNPs associated with TA (CNP-TA) and investigate its photoprotective activity in L929 fibroblasts exposed to UVB radiation. CNP conjugation with TA was confirmed by UV-Vis spectra and X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy. Bare CNPs and CNP-TA exhibited particle sizes of ~5 and ~10 nm, superoxide dismutase activity of 3724 and 2021 unit/mg, and a zeta potential of 23 and -19 mV, respectively. CNP-TA showed lower cytotoxicity than free TA and the capacity to reduce the oxidative stress caused by UVB; supported by the scavenging of reactive oxygen species, the prevention of endogenous antioxidant system depletion, and the reduction in oxidative damage in lipids and DNA. Additionally, CNP-TA improved cell proliferation and decreased TGF-β, metalloproteinase-1, and cyclooxygenase-2. Based on these results, CNP-TA shows therapeutic potential for protection against photodamage, decreasing molecular markers of photoaging and UVB-induced inflammation.

Resveratrol rescues cutaneous radiation-induced DNA damage via a novel AMPK/SIRT7/HMGB1 regulatory axis

Cutaneous radiation injury (CRI) interrupts the scheduled process of radiotherapy and even compromises the life quality of patients. However, the current clinical options for alleviating CRI are relatively limited. Resveratrol (RSV) has been shown to be a promising protective agent against CRI; yet the mechanisms of RSV enhancing radioresistance were not fully elucidated and limited its clinical application. In this study, we demonstrate RSV promotes cutaneous radioresistance mainly through SIRT7. During ionizing radiation (IR) treatment, RSV indirectly phosphorylates and activates SIRT7 through AMPK, which is critical for maintaining the genome stability of keratinocytes. Immunoprecipitation and mass spectrometry identified HMGB1 to be the key interacting partner of SIRT7 to mediate the radioprotective function of RSV. Mechanistic study elucidated that SIRT7 interacts with and deacetylates HMGB1 to redistribute it into nucleus and "switch on" its function for DNA damage repair. Our findings establish a novel AMPK/SIRT7/HMGB1 regulatory axis that mediates the radioprotective function of RSV to alleviate IR-induced cutaneous DNA injury, providing an efficiently-curative option for patients with CRI during radiotherapy.

Effects of Dietary Phytochemicals on DNA Damage in Cancer Cells

With the increasing incidence of cancer worldwide, the prevention and treatment of cancer have garnered considerable scientific attention. Traditional chemotherapeutic drugs are highly toxic and associated with substantial side effects; therefore, there is an urgent need for developing new therapeutic agents. Dietary phytochemicals are important in tumor prevention and treatment because of their low toxicity and side effects at low concentrations; however, their exact mechanisms of action remain obscure. DNA damage is mainly caused by physical or chemical factors in the environment, such as ultraviolet light, alkylating agents and reactive oxygen species that cause changes in the DNA structure of cells. Several phytochemicals have been shown inhibit the occurrence and development of tumors by inducing DNA damage. This article reviews the advances in phytochemical research; particularly regarding the mechanisms related to DNA damage and provide a theoretical basis for future chemoprophylaxis research.

Antioxidant and photoprotective potential of Polypodium leucotomos

In recent years, Polypodium leucotomos has emerged with a great interest for having medicinal and therapeutic potential. It is producing very promising results due to the presence of antioxidant and photoprotective properties. Electronic libraries and databases, including Scopus, PubMed, Google Scholar, Science Direct, and Web of Science were searched to identify relevant studies; 79 publications contributed to this review regarding Polypodium leucotomos botanical aspects, chemical composition, antioxidant and photoprotective activity. It is used in complementary and alternative therapies with various pharmaceutical dosage forms (systemic or topical). Thanks to the composition of phytochemical constituents present in the leaves and rhizomes which confer antioxidant and photoprotective activity that has clinical therapeutic potential to be used as systemic and topical sunscreen of natural origin for the prevention of different types of skin diseases caused by harmful ultraviolet A and ultraviolet B radiations. However, more studies are needed in the future to test the ability and enhance the capacity of sunscreen and sunblock in cosmetic formulations. To conclude, it is recommended to carry out scientific studies based on different analytical methods to evaluate the phytoconstituents potential and to develop stable pharmaceutical formulations according to the skin phototype.

Design, Synthesis and Evaluation of New Multifunctional Benzothiazoles as Photoprotective, Antioxidant and Antiproliferative Agents

A current trend of research in the health field is toward the discovery of multifunctional compounds, capable of interacting with multiple biological targets, thus simplifying multidrug therapies and improving patient compliance. The aim of this work was to synthesize new multifunctional chemical entities bearing a benzothiazole nucleus, a structure that has attracted increasing interest for the great variety of biological actions that it can perform, and already used as a scaffold in several multifunctional drugs. Compounds are reported, divided into two distinct series, synthetized and tested in vitro for the antioxidant, and include UV-filtering and antitumor activities. DPPH and FRAP tests were chosen to outline an antioxidant activity profile against different radical species. The UV-filtering activity was investigated, pre- and post-irradiation, through evaluation of a O/W sunscreen standard formulation containing 3% of the synthetic compounds. The antitumor activity was investigated both on human melanoma cells (Colo-38) and on immortalized human keratinocytes as a control (HaCat). A good antiproliferative profile in terms of IC₅₀ was chosen as a mandatory condition to further investigate apoptosis induction as a possible cytotoxicity mechanism through the Annexin V test. Compound BZTcin4 was endowed with excellent activity and a selectivity profile towards Colo-38, supported by a good antioxidant capacity and an excellent broad-spectrum photoprotective profile.

Molecular Modeling Based on Time-Dependent Density Functional Theory (TD-DFT) Applied to the UV-Vis Spectra of Natural Compounds

As diseases caused by solar radiation have gained great prominence, several methods to prevent them have been developed. Among the most common, the use of sunscreens is customary and accessible. The application of theoretical methods has helped to design new compounds with therapeutic and protective functions. Natural compounds with described photoprotective potential properties (3-O-methylquercetin, gallic acid, aloin, catechin, quercetin, and resveratrol) were selected to perform theoretical studies. Computational methods were applied to predict their absorption spectra, using DFT and TD-DFT methods with functional B3LYP/6−311+g(d,p) basis sets and methanol (IEFPCM) as a solvent. The main electronic transitions of the compounds were evaluated by observing whether the differences in HOMO and LUMO energies that absorb in the UV range are UVA (320–400 nm), UVB (290–320 nm), or UVC (100–290 nm). Experimental validation was carried out for EMC, quercetin, and resveratrol, demonstrating the consistency of the computational method. Results obtained suggest that resveratrol is a candidate for use in sunscreens. The study provided relevant information about the in silico predictive power of natural molecules with the potential for use as photoprotective adjuvants, which may result in fewer time and resource expenditures in the search for photoprotective compounds.

Glycerol and Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents Extraction for Preparation of Luteolin-Rich Jasione montana Extracts with Cosmeceutical Activity

Jasione montana is a plant from the family Campanulaceae rich in phenols with health-beneficial properties such as luteolin (LUT) derivatives. In this work, a glycerol-based ultrasound-assisted extraction method was developed and optimized for in total phenol (TP) and LUT content, as well as antiradical activity (RSA). The best conditions (glycerol content, temperature, plant material weight, and ultrasonication power) for the preparation of J. montana extracts richest in TP (OPT-TP), LUT (OPT-LUT), and having the best RSA (OPT-RSA) were determined. Furthermore, numerous natural deep eutectic solvents (NADES), containing proline, glycerol, betaine, urea, and glucose were prepared and used for the extraction of J. montana. Contents of TP, LUT, and RSA in the prepared extracts were established. Antioxidant and cosmeceutical activity of the prepared extracts was tested. The OPT-TP, OPT-LUT, and OPT-RSA, as well as the most efficient NADES-based extract, PG-50-TP, were excellent antioxidants and Fe²⁺ ion chelators. In addition, they were potent inhibitors of collagenase and hyaluronidase, as well as good significant anti-elastase and -lipoxygenase activity. The observed antioxidant- and enzyme-inhibiting activity of J. montana extracts prepared using environmentally friendly methods and non-toxic solvents makes them promising ingredients of cosmeceutical products.

Phytocompounds Recovered from the Waste of Cabernet Sauvignon (Vitis vinifera L.) Vinification: Cytotoxicity (in Normal and Stressful Conditions) and In Vitro Photoprotection Efficacy in a Sunscreen System

We investigated plausible reuse for the dermocosmetic industry of byproducts from the winemaking process of red grapes (Vitis vinifera L. cv. C. Sauvignon) through the evaluation of one extract (grape pomace extract, GPE) and two fractions (one chloroform, GPE-CHF; one ethyl acetate, GPE-EAF). The samples were characterized analytically by liquid chromatography (HPLC) using a NIH 3T3 fibroblast cell culture to verify a cytosafety profile in normal and stressful environment (presence of H2O2), and by using it in a sunscreen system to observe improvements in the in vitro efficacy by diffuse reflectance spectrophotometry with an integrating sphere. The HPLC results for GPE-EAF and GPE-CHF samples with the best profile of syringic and p-coumaric acids, quercetin, and trans-resveratrol were used in the further assays. GPE-EAF and GPE-CHF, both at 30.00 µg/mL, maintained the cell viability in the absence of H2O2 (normal condition). In the sequence, GPE-EAF and GPE-CHF were evaluated against the oxidative stressor H2O2 in NIH 3T3 cells. A sharp drop in viability was only observed for GPE-CHF, and cytotoxicity of GPE-EAF was considered absent even in a hostile environment. Since GPE-EAF previously developed the best results, its potential performance was investigated in a sunscreen system. The in vitro sun protection factor of the phytoderivative-free formulation was 9.0 + 2.5; by adding GPE-EAF at 10.0%, its efficacy was elevated to 15.0 + 2.5. Both samples suffered a negative effect after artificial ultraviolet exposition (500 W/m2); however, the presence of GPE-EAF improved the photostability of the sunscreen system.

Evaluation of Chemical Composition, Sun Protection Factor and Antioxidant Activity of Lithuanian Propolis and Its Plant Precursors

The growing interest in polyphenols of natural origin and their plant sources encourages the study of their chemical composition and biological activity. Propolis is widely used as a source of phenolic compounds. The aim of this study is to evaluate and compare the chemical composition, antioxidant activity and sun protection factor (SPF) of the ethanolic extracts of the poplar buds, birch buds and pine buds of propolis plant precursors collected in Lithuania. The IC50 concentration of the extracts was evaluated using DPPH and ABTS methods. Extracts of poplar buds, birch buds and propolis showed a lower IC50 concentration by ABTS and DPPH methods compared with pine buds extracts. Poplar buds and propolis extracts showed the highest SPF value, while birch and pine buds extracts showed a lower SPF value. High-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis results showed that phenolic acids, such as p-coumaric acid and cinnamic acid, and flavonoids, such as pinobanksin and pinocembrin, were identified in all the tested extracts. Salicin has been identified only in poplar buds extracts. The results of antioxidant activity showed that propolis poplar and birch buds are a promising source of biologically active polyphenols.

Cranberry Juice Polyphenols Inhibited the Formation of Advanced Glycation End Products in Collagens, Inhibited Advanced Glycation End Product-Induced Collagen Crosslinking, and Cleaved the Formed Crosslinks

Collagens in the human skin are susceptible to glycation due to their long half-life of about 15 years, accumulating advanced glycation end products (AGEs). The formation of AGEs and the subsequent AGE-induced collagen crosslinking are major factors for skin aging. The objective of this study was to determine the capacity of cranberry juice polyphenols (CJPs) and their fractions to inhibit collagen glycation and to break AGE-induced crosslinks in collagens. Concentrated cranberry juice was extracted to obtain the CJP, which was further fractionated into an ethyl acetate fraction, water fraction, 30% methanol (MeOH) fraction, 60% MeOH fraction, MeOH fraction, and acetone fraction. CJPs and their fractions contained different ratios of anthocyanins, procyanidins, and flavonols. All the fractions significantly inhibited collagen glycation assessed with the collagen-methylglyoxal (MGO) or collagen-dehydroascorbic acid (DHAA) assays. The ethyl acetate fraction and 60% MeOH had the lowest IC₅₀ values in the collagen-MGO and collagen-DHAA assays. The methanol fraction (IC₅₀ = 0.52 μg/mL) and acetone fraction (IC₅₀ = 0.019 mg/mL) had the lowest IC₅₀ values in the inhibition and breakage of AGE-induced collagen crosslinking, respectively. The ethyl acetate fraction significantly scavenged the highest amount of MGO and DHAA after incubation compared to the other fractions. Results suggested that procyanidins were the most effective antiglycation agent in both collagen glycation assays, followed by flavonols and anthocyanins. High-performance liquid chromatography-electrospray ionization─tandem mass spectrometry showed that the reactions of DHAA with quercetin or epicatechin formed several adducts with unreported proposed structures. This study suggested that CJPs may be used as active ingredients in cosmetics to prevent skin collagen glycation and crosslinking and to break the formed crosslinks.

Process Optimization of Phytoantioxidant and Photoprotective Compounds from Carob Pods (Ceratonia siliqua L.) Using Ultrasonic Assisted Extraction Method

The current study first describes the extraction of phytoantioxidant polyphenols from Carob byproducts (pods) using maceration and heating-assisted extraction as traditional methods and ultrasonic-assisted extraction (UAE) as an innovative method to determine the most efficient extraction process in terms of four targeted responses: total phenolic content (TPC), antioxidant activities (TAC and DPPH), and photoprotective properties as measured by the sun protection factor (SPF). Second, we used response surface methodology (RSM) with a central composite rotatable design (CCDR) approach to investigate the influence of process variables (extraction time, extraction temperature, and solvent concentration) on UAE, which was found to be the most effective extraction technique in our study. Carob byproduct extracts had a TPC ranging from 6.21 to 21.92 mg GAE/g dw, a TAC ranging from 22.00 to 49.30 mg AAE/g dw, DPPH scavenging activity ranging from 56.35 to 90.50%, and SPF values ranging from 8.62 to 22.37. The optimal UAE conditions for maximum TPC, TAC, DPPH, and SPF responses were determined to be 38.90% ethanol, 53.90 °C, and 50.92 min. Using Carob as a source for sustainable and bioactive products in conjunction with optimized UAE is a promising contribution to the cosmetic industry that will help to strengthen the concept of environmentally-friendly "green chemistry". Given that Carob pulp or seeds are considered food byproducts, the research presented here encourages the use of these agri-food waste materials in cosmetics.

Antioxidant activity of mycelia methanolic extracts of endophytic fungi BvFV and BvFIX isolated from leaves of Bauhinia variegata

Endophytes are considered an essential source of natural products. Skin is the body's largest organ; its primary function is the protection of other organs, and aging is one of the most relevant problems associated with this organ. UV radiation generates reactive oxygen species (ROS), which lead to skin degeneration and consequent aging. The main endogenous antioxidants that neutralize ROS are enzymatic antioxidants such as superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase, glutathione peroxidase, and glutathione reductase, and non-enzymatic antioxidants, such as glutathione and α-tocopherol. Nuclear receptors are involved in molecular mechanisms that control the aging process, especially peroxisome proliferator-activated receptors (PPAR), which regulate the function and expression of genes that modulate the balance between matrix metalloproteinases (MMP) activity and the expression of collagen. Some natural compounds, such as polyphenols, can activate PPAR and reduce the activation of MMP and collagen degradation. In this work, the antioxidant activity of the mycelia methanolic extracts of two endophytic fungi isolated from leaves of Bauhinia variegata, named BvFV and BvFIX, their action as PPAR agonists, and their effect on the activity of antioxidant defense system enzymes were evaluated. The mycelia methanolic extract of BvFV showed a weak agonist effect on PPARβ/δ, a high capability to inhibit lipid peroxidation, increased catalase activity, and increased superoxide dismutase activity by approximately 64%. In contrast, BvFIX increased catalase activity and increased superoxide dismutase activity in a dose-dependent manner, with an increase of 49.62% ± 7.87%, 56.64% ± 12.27%, and 240.46% ± 26.11% at concentrations of 25 µg/mL, 50 µg/mL and 100 µg/mL, respectively, in human dermal fibroblasts submitted to oxidative stress. These results suggest that the metabolites of the mycelia of endophytic fungi studied are promising to act in the chemoprevention of skin aging.

Development of branched polyphenolic poly(beta amino esters) to facilitate post-synthesis processing

Given their versatility and formability, polymers have proven to be a viable platform facilitating a controlled and tuned release for a variety of therapeutic agents. One growing area of polymer drug delivery is polymeric prodrugs, which covalently link active pharmaceutical ingredients to a polymeric form to enhance stability, delivery, and pharmacology. One such class of polymeric prodrugs, poly(beta amino esters) (PβAEs) can be synthesized into crosslinked, or "thermoset," networks which greatly limits their processability. An antioxidant-PβAE polymer prodrug that is soluble in organic solutions would permit enhanced processability, increasing their utility and manufacturability. Curcumin PβAEs were synthesized to be soluble in organic solvents while retaining the release and activity properties. To demonstrate the polymer processability, curcumin PβAEs were further synthesized into nanoparticles and thin films. Control over nanoparticle size and film thickness was established through variance of dope solution concentration and withdrawal speed, respectively. Layering of polymeric films was demonstrated through inkjet printing of thin films. Polymer function was characterized through curcumin release and antioxidant activity. The processing of the polymer had a drastic impact on the curcumin release profiles indicating the polymer degradation was influenced by surface area and porosity of the final product. Previously, release was controlled primarily through the hydrophobicity of the polymer. Here, we demonstrate a novel method for further tuning the degradation by processing the polymer.

Plant polyphenols as green sunscreen ingredients: A systematic review

BACKGROUND

Excessive exposure to ultraviolet radiation has harmful effects on human skin. At present, synthetic and mineral types of sunscreens used to protect against these harmful damages have been reported to cause negative health and environmental effects. The studies involving characterization and isolation of phytoconstituents from natural botanical sources are important to discover their potential beneficial effects on sunscreen development AIM: This systematic review provides specific and compiled information on the photoprotective properties of natural botanical sources for sunscreen development. The efforts in research and innovation are essential to ensure the safety and sustainability of plant-based sunscreen products.

METHODS

In this review, a total of 35 articles were selected using the Scopus database based on the inclusion and exclusion criteria RESULT: The significant correlation between total phenolic content, total flavonoid content, antioxidant activities, and sun protection factor were shown in these studies which confirmed the potential benefits of natural plants in sunscreen development.

CONCLUSIONS

In addition, natural botanical sources also exhibit excellent anti-tyrosinase, anti-aging, and anti-inflammatory activities. However, the biological activities of plants were dependent on the solvents used for extraction.

Antioxidative and immunostimulant potential of fruit derived biomolecules in aquaculture

Huge amounts of non-edible by-products could be generated from fruit industrial processes. They consist mainly of peels together with low amounts of pulp and seeds. These by-products pose an environmental hazard due to soil, air, and water pollution. Moreover, treating these by-products is very expensive and under strict governmental regulations. Nevertheless, they are an excellent source of bioactive constituents, such as phenols, flavonoids, terpenes, and glucans. Based on their constituents, these by-products can significantly enhance the antioxidant defense, immune response, and modulation of gut microbiota and host resistance against various diseases. Therefore, sustainable valorization of fruits by-products can efficiently obtain value-added products that improve the well-being of organisms and reduce environmental stress, in addition to earning an additional industrial income. Since aquaculture is a vital economic sector, there is urgent to look for inexpensive natural food additives that improve health and maintain high nutritional quality for farming organisms without harming the environment and human health. Therefore, using fruit wastes as feed additives represents a striking alternative for fruitful aquaculture. In order to make use of these value-added products, it is a dire need to determine their biological effects on aquaculture organisms by understanding their mechanism of action. In this context, this review will holistically address a comprehensive focus on utilizing fruits by-products and their immunostimulant and antioxidative action.

Tea Polyphenols and Their Preventive Measures against Cancer: Current Trends and Directions

Cancer is exerting an immense strain on the population and health systems all over the world. Green tea because of its higher simple catechin content (up to 30% on dry weight basis) is greatly popular as an anti-cancer agent which is found to reduce the risks of cancer as well as a range of other diseases. In addition, several in vitro and in vivo studies have shown that green tea possesses copious health benefits like anti-diabetic, anti-obese, anti-inflammatory, neuro-protective, cardio-protective, etc. This review highlights the anti-carcinogenic effects of green tea catechins integrating the recent information to gain a clear concept. Special emphasis was given to the effectiveness of green tea polyphenols (GTP) in the prevention of cancer. Overall, green tea has been found to be effective to reduce the risks of breast cancer, ovarian cancer, liver cancer, colorectal cancer, skin cancer, prostate cancer, oral cancer, etc. However, sufficient information was not found to support that green tea consumption reduces the risk of lung cancer, esophageal cancer, or stomach cancer. The exciting data integrated into this article will increase interest in future researchers to garner more fruitful information on the relevant topics.

Natural Compounds and Products from an Anti-Aging Perspective

Aging is a very complex process that is accompanied by a degenerative impairment in many of the major functions of the human body over time. This inevitable process is influenced by hereditary factors, lifestyle, and environmental influences such as xenobiotic pollution, infectious agents, UV radiation, diet-borne toxins, and so on. Many external and internal signs and symptoms are related with the aging process and senescence, including skin dryness and wrinkles, atherosclerosis, diabetes, neurodegenerative disorders, cancer, etc. Oxidative stress, a consequence of the imbalance between pro- and antioxidants, is one of the main provoking factors causing aging-related damages and concerns, due to the generation of highly reactive byproducts such as reactive oxygen and nitrogen species during the metabolism, which result in cellular damage and apoptosis. Antioxidants can prevent these processes and extend healthy longevity due to the ability to inhibit the formation of free radicals or interrupt their propagation, thereby lowering the level of oxidative stress. This review focuses on supporting the antioxidant system of the organism by balancing the diet through the consumption of the necessary amount of natural ingredients, including vitamins, minerals, polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA), essential amino acids, probiotics, plants' fibers, nutritional supplements, polyphenols, some phytoextracts, and drinking water.

White pitahaya as a natural additive: potential usage in cosmetic industry

The awareness of some harmful side effects of the chemicals contained in synthetic cosmetics has increased the demand for herbal-based cosmetic products today. White pitahaya fruit and peel methanol extracts were prepared to determine their usage potential in the cosmetic industry. Firstly, we investigated their antimicrobial activity against some test microorganisms using the disc diffusion assay. We also determined their minimal inhibition and minimal bactericidal or fungicidal concentrations. Then, we assayed the antimicrobial activity of a commercial cream containing white pitahaya extracts and the probiotic Lactobacillus fermentum MA-7 strain against the test microorganisms. Finally, we measured the sun protection factors of the white pitahaya fruit and peel extracts and the cream with the extracts. The white pitahaya fruit and peel extracts exhibited antimicrobial activity against the test microorganisms. The cream formulation containing a pitahaya fruit extract had the highest inhibition zone diameter of 11.25 mm against Escherichia coli O157:H7. The highest sun protection value among the extracts and cream with extracts was determined for peel extract as 6.66 and 23.34, respectively. The results indicate that pitahaya fruit and peel extracts have effective antibacterial and antifungal properties, as well as high sun protection factors, and therefore they could be used as natural preservatives in the cosmetic industry.

Dihydroquercetin composite nanofibrous membrane prevents UVA radiation-mediated inflammation, apoptosis and oxidative stress by modulating MAPKs/Nrf2 signaling in human epidermal keratinocytes

Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a key cause of skin inflammation and photodamage in the environment. Dihydroquercetin composite nanofiber membrane (CPD) is a nano-scale membrane cloth prepared by electrospinning technology. The results in this study showed that CPD could enhance the activities of endogenous antioxidant enzymes such as SOD and GSH-Px induced by UVA radiation, and reduce the overexpression of ROS. MAPKs/Nrf2 signaling is associated with inflammation, apoptosis and oxidative stress. Compared with control HaCaT cells, we found that CPD pretreatment prevents MAPK (p-ERK, p-JNK, and p-P38)/Nrf2-induced inflammation, apoptosis, and oxidative stress signaling during UVA exposure pathway overexpression. Immunofluorescence experiments also showed that CPD could reduce the fluorescence intensity of Caspase-3 and TNF-α. These results suggest that CPD may be a successful healing agent that provides reinforcement against UVA-induced oxidative and irritating skin compensation.

Recent Green Technologies in Natural Stilbenoids Production and Extraction: The Next Chapter in the Cosmetic Industry

Stilbenoids are well-known phytoalexins in the group of polyphenolic compounds. Because of their potent bioactivities, including antioxidant, antityrosinase, photoprotective, and antibacterial activities, stilbenoids are utilized as pharmaceutical active ingredient in cosmetic products. Thus, the demand for stilbenoids in the cosmetic industry is increasing. The main sources of stilbenoids are plants. Although plants are green and sustainable source materials, some of them do not allow a regular and constant supply due to seasonal and geographic reasons. Stilbenoids typically have been extracted by conventional organic solvent extraction, and then purified by separation techniques. This method is unfriendly to the environment and may deteriorate human health. Hence, the procedures called “green technologies” are focused on novel extraction methods and sustainable stilbenoids production by using biotechnology. In this review, the chemical structures together with the biosynthesis and current plant sources of resveratrol, oxyresveratrol, and piceatannol are described. Furthermore, recent natural deep eutectic solvents (NADES) for green extraction as well as plant cell cultures for the production of those stilbene compounds are updated.

Pterostilbene inhibits melanogenesis, melanocyte dendricity and melanosome transport through cAMP/PKA/CREB pathway

Pterostilbene is a trans stilbene compound, which is an effective component of herbaceous plants such as Dalbergia woods and Vaccinium. Although pterostilbene has many uses in anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant and anti-tumor, its whitening effect is drawing more and more attention, the mechanism of melanogenesis and melanosome transport still needs further study. In this research, we tried to further investigate how melanocyte melanogenesis is affected by pterostilbene and whether pterostilbene play a part in melanin transport. Our results showed that pterostilbene has a potent inhibitory effect on melanogenesis in B16F10 cells (3 μM, p < 0.001), in-vitro human skin (10 μM, p < 0.05) and zebrafish embryos (3 μM, p < 0.01). Besides, pterostilbene not only inhibited melanogenesis, but also inhibited melanocyte dendritic development and melanosome transport. Pterostilbene mainly plays a role by inhibiting cAMP/PKA/CREB signal pathway. After the cAMP/PKA/CREB signaling pathway was inhibited, tyrosinase activity and the expression of MITF, TYR, Rab27A, Rab17 and gp100 were decreased, which in turn suppressed melanogenesis, melanocyte dendritic development and melanosome transport. Our findings showed that pterostilbene can potently inhibit melanogenesis and melanosome transport, suggesting the applicability of pterostilbene in skin lightning. Therefore, a novel pharmacologic way to treat hyperpigmentation has been proposed.

Uncovering Streptomyces-Derived Compounds as Cosmeceuticals for the Development of Improved Skin Photoprotection Products: An In Silico Approach to Explore Multi-Targeted Agents

The search for novel photoprotective substances has become a challenge in cosmeceutical research. Streptomyces-derived compounds can serve as a promising source of photoprotective agents to formulate skin photoprotection products, such as sunscreens. This study aimed to identify specialized metabolites with the potential to modulate UV-induced cellular damage in the skin by identifying potential multi-target-directed ligands. Using a combination of ligand- and target-based virtual screening approaches, a public compound library comprising 6524 Streptomyces-derived specialized metabolites was studied for their photoprotective capability. The compounds were initially filtered by safety features and then examined for their ability to interact with key targets in the photodamage pathway by molecular docking. A set of 50 commercially available UV filters was used as the benchmark. The protein–ligand stability of selected Streptomyces-derived compounds was also studied by molecular dynamics (MD) simulations. From the compound library, 1981 compounds were found to meet the safety criteria for topically applied products, such as low skin permeability and low or non-toxicity-alerting substructures. A total of 34 compounds had promising binding scores against crucial targets involved in UV-induced photodamage, such as serotonin-receptor subtype 5-HT2A, platelet-activating factor receptor, IL-1 receptor type 1, epidermal growth factor receptor, and cyclooxygenase-2. Among these compounds, aspergilazine A and phaeochromycin F showed the highest ranked interactions with four of the five targets and triggered complex stabilization over time. Additionally, the predicted UV-absorbing profiles also suggest a UV-filtering effect. Streptomyces is an encouraging biological source of compounds for developing topical products. After in silico protein–ligand interactions, binding mode and stabilization of aspergilazine A and phaeochromycin F led to the discovery of potential candidates as photodamage multi-target inhibitors. Therefore, they can be further explored for the formulation of skin photoprotection products.

An Oral Polyphenol Formulation to Modulate the Ocular Surface Inflammatory Process and to Improve the Symptomatology Associated with Dry Eye Disease

Due to their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, neuroprotective, and anti-angiogenic effects, polyphenols are first-rate candidates to prevent or treat chronic diseases in which oxidative stress-induced inflammation plays a role in disease pathogenesis. Dry eye disease (DED) is a common pathology, on which novel phenolic compound formulations have been tested as an adjuvant therapeutic approach. However, polyphenols are characterized by limited stability and solubility, insolubility in water, very rapid metabolism, and a very short half-life. Thus, they show poor bioavailability. To overcome these limitations and improve their stability and bioavailability, we evaluated the safety and efficacy of an oral formulation containing among other compounds, polyphenols and omega-3 fatty acids, with the addition of a surfactant in patients with DED. Subjects were randomly assigned to one of four study groups including the study formulation (A), placebo (P), the study formulation + eye lubricant (A + L), and placebo + eye lubricant (P + L). Patients from the A and P groups were instructed to take two capsules every 24 h, while patients in the L groups also added one drop of lubricant twice a day for 12 weeks as well. Regarding safety, non-ocular abnormalities were observed during study formulation therapy. Liver function tests did not show any statistically significant difference (baseline vs. week 4). Concerning efficacy, there was a statistically significant difference between baseline, month 1, and month 3 in the OSDI (Ocular Surface Disease Index) test results in both treatment groups (group A and group A + L). Furthermore, both groups showed statistically significant differences between baseline and month 3 regarding the non-invasive film tear breakup time (NIF-BUT) score and a positive trend related to Shirmer's test at month 3. The non-invasive average breakup time (NIAvg-BUT) score showed a statistically significant difference at month 3 when compared with baseline in the A + L group. The P + L group showed a statistically significant difference in terms of the OSDI questionary between baseline and month 3. Regarding the lissamine green staining, the A + L group showed a statistical difference between baseline and month 3 (p = 0.0367). The placebo + lubricant group did not show statistically significant differences. Finally, the placebo group did not show any data with statistically significant differences. Consequently, this polyphenol formulation as a primary treatment outperformed the placebo alone, and the polyphenol oral formulation used as an adjuvant to artificial tears was superior to the combination of the placebo and the artificial tears. Thus, our data strongly suggest that this polyphenol oral formulation improves visual strain symptoms and tear film status in patients with mild to moderate DED.

Activation of the JNKs/ATM-p53 axis is indispensable for the cytoprotection of dermal fibroblasts exposed to UVB radiation

Although UVB radiation is mainly absorbed by the epidermis, ~5-10% of its photons reach and affect the upper part of the dermis. Physiologically relevant UVB doses, able to provoke erythema, induce apoptosis in human dermal fibroblasts in vitro, as well as in the dermis of SKH-1 mice. Given the sparse and even contradictory existing information on the effect of UVB radiation on dermal fibroblasts' viability, aim of this work was to unravel the crucial signaling pathways regulating the survival of UVB-treated human dermal fibroblasts. We found that UVB radiation immediately stimulates the phosphorylation of MAPK family members, as well as Akt, and is genotoxic leading to the delayed ATM-p53 axis activation. Akt phosphorylation after UVB radiation is EGFR-mediated and EGFR inhibition leads to a further decrease of viability, while the Akt activator SC79 rescues fibroblasts to an extent by a mechanism involving Nrf2 activation. The known Nrf2 activator sulforaphane also exerts a partial protective effect, although by acting in a distinct mechanism from SC79. On the other hand, inhibition of JNKs or of the ATM-p53 axis leads to a complete loss of viability after UVB irradiation. Interestingly, JNKs activation is necessary for p53 phosphorylation, while the ATM-p53 pathway is required for the long-term activation of JNKs and Akt, reassuring the protection from UVB. Although UVB radiation results in intense and prolonged increase of intracellular ROS levels, classical anti-oxidants, such as Trolox, are unable to affect Akt, JNKs, or p53 phosphorylation and to reverse the loss of fibroblasts' viability. Collectively, here we provide evidence that the main viability-regulating UVB-triggered biochemical pathways act synergistically towards the protection of human dermal fibroblasts, with EGFR/Akt and Nrf2 serving as auxiliary anti-apoptotic machineries, while JNKs/ATM-p53 activation and interplay being overriding and indispensable for the perpetuation of cellular defense and the maintenance of cell viability.

Worenine Prevents Solar Ultraviolet–Induced Sunburn by Inhibiting JNK2

Excessive solar ultraviolet (SUV) radiation often causes dermatitis, photoaging, and even skin cancer. In the pathological processes of SUV-induced sunburn, JNK is activated by phosphorylation, and it in turn phosphorylates its downstream transcription factors, such as ATF2 and c-jun. The transcription factors further regulate the expression of pro-inflammatory genes, such as IL-6 and TNF-α, which ultimately leads to dermatitis. Therefore, inhibiting JNK may be a strategy to prevent dermatitis. In this study, we screened for worenine as a potential drug candidate for inhibiting sunburn. We determined that worenine inhibited the JNK-ATF2/c-jun signaling pathway and the secretion of IL-6 and TNF-α in cell culture and in vivo, confirming the role of worenine in inhibiting sunburn. Furthermore, we determined that worenine bound and inhibited JNK2 activity in vitro through the MST, kinase, and in vitro kinase assays. Therefore, worenine might be a promising drug candidate for the prevention and treatment of SUV-induced sunburn.

Stability and Antioxidant Activity of Hydro-Glyceric Extracts Obtained from Different Grape Seed Varieties Incorporated in Cosmetic Creams

Grape seeds are agro-industrial by-products, which if improperly managed, may be responsible for socioeconomic and environmental problems. Nevertheless, it is possible to effectively valorize them by means of extraction of the bioactive compounds, especially the antioxidant phenolic molecules, using a safe, green, and environmentally-friendly extractive medium (i.e., hydro-glyceric solution). In the present study, the extraction was performed using seeds from two Lebanese varieties, Obeidi and Asswad Karech, and three international varieties, Marselan, Syrah, and Cabernet Franc. The type and amount of phenolic compounds were identified by High-Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC). Marselan was the extract richer in catechins (132.99 ± 9.81 μg/g of dried matter), and it also contained a higher amount of phenolic compounds (49.08 ± 0.03 mg of gallic acid equivalent/g of dry matter and 10.02 ± 0.24 mg of proanthocyanidin content/g of dry matter). The antioxidant capacity of the extracts was assessed using three different colorimetric assays including 2,2-DiPhenyl-1-PicrylHydrazyl (DPPH), CUPRIC ion Reducing Antioxidant Capacity (CUPRAC), and Ferric Reducing Antioxidant Power (FRAP). As expected, Marselan exhibited the highest antioxidant activity; as well, the total phenolic and proanthocyanidin content were the highest. The stability of the Marselan extract incorporated into a commercial cream, was performed at three different temperatures (4, 25, and 50 °C), and four different concentrations (5, 4, 3, 2%), over a period of 4 months, using different methods such as centrifugation, Heat-Shock Cycles, pH, and viscosity. All Marselan hydro-glyceric extract formulations were proven to be stable over the entire 4 months, where the highest stability was achieved at 4 °C and the least at 50 °C. This study supports the suitability of the incorporation of phenolic extracts into commercial creams to enrich the cosmetic industry with effective, natural, and safe skincare products.

Neurotoxicity and Structure-Activity Relationships of Resveratrol and its two Natural Analogs, 4,4′-Dihydroxystilbene and Pinosylvin

Resveratrol (RES) and its two natural analogues, 4,4′-dihydroxystilbene (DHS) and pinosylvin (PIN), are very important polyphenols and have attracted considerable pharmaceutical interest because of their diverse biological activities. However, their adverse effects on motor nerves and glioma cells have not been properly assessed. Herein, we surveyed the toxicity and analyzed the structure-activity relationship of these three polyphenols using transgenic zebrafish ( Danio rerio) and U87. Results indicated that, in zebrafish embryos, both DHS (1 and 10 μg/mL) with hydroxyl groups at the 4 and 4′ positions, and PIN (1 and 10 μg/mL) with hydroxyl groups at the 3 and 5 positions inhibited motor neuron growth more effectively than RES (1 and 10 μg/mL) with hydroxyl groups at the 3, 4′, and 5 positions, although their appearance is normal. Both the DHS- (10 μg/mL) and PIN (10 μg/mL) -treated groups significantly reduced the swimming distance of zebrafish compared with the RES (10 μg/mL) -treated group. In addition, DHS with the hydroxyl groups at the 4 and 4′ positions (0.002, 0.02, 0.2, 2, and 20 μM) inhibited U87 cell aggregation in a concentration-dependent manner; PIN with the hydroxyl groups at the 3 and 5 positions (0.002, 0.02, 0.2, 2, and 20 μM) promoted U87 cell aggregation in a concentration-dependent manner, while RES with three hydroxyl groups promoted U87 cell aggregation at concentrations from 0.2 to 2 μM. Taken together, DHS and PIN are more neurotoxic than RES. The position and number of hydroxyl groups significantly affected the ability of the polyphenols to aggregate into tumors in the U87 cell.

Callus-Mediated High-Frequency Plant Regeneration, Phytochemical Profiling, Antioxidant Activity and Genetic Stability in Ruta chalepensis L

Efficient methods for callus induction and the high-frequency plant regeneration of Ruta chalepensis L. were established, and the phytochemical potential and antioxidant activity of a donor plant, ex-vitro-established micropropagated plants, and callus were also studied. Yellowish-green callus was induced with a frequency of 97.8% from internode shoot segments of the donor plant growing in soil in the botanical garden cultured on Murashige and Skoog (MS) medium containing 10 μM 2,4-D (2,4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid) and 1 μM BA (6-benzyladenine). Adventitious shoots were regenerated from the yellowish-green callus on MS medium containing 5.0 μM (BA) and 1.0 μM 1-naphthaleneacetic acid (NAA), with a regeneration frequency of 98.4% and a maximum of 54.6 shoots with an average length of 4.5 cm after 8 weeks. The regenerated shoots were rooted in a medium containing 1.0 μM IBA (indole-3-butyric acid) and successfully transferred to ex vitro conditions in pots containing normal garden soil, with a 95% survival rate. The amounts of alkaloids, phenolics, flavonoids, tannins, and antioxidant activity of the ex-vitro-established micropropagated plants were higher than in the donor plant and callus. The highest contents of hesperidin and rutin (93.3 and 55.9 µg/mg, respectively) were found in the ex-vitro-established micropropagated plants compared to those obtained from the donor plant (91.4 and 31.0 µg/mg, respectively) and callus (59.1 and 21.6 µg/mg, respectively). The genetic uniformity of the ex-vitro-established micropropagated plants was appraised by the ISSR markers and compared with the donor plant. This is the first report describing the callus-mediated plant regeneration, as well as the production of phenolic compounds and antioxidant activities in R. chalepensis, which might be a potential alternative technique for the mass propagation and synthesis of bioactive compounds such as hesperidin and rutin.

Skin Care Product Rich in Antioxidants and Anti-Inflammatory Natural Compounds Reduces Itching and Inflammation in the Skin of Atopic Dermatitis Patients

The atopic dermatitis (AD) complex pathogenesis mechanism reveals marked changes of certain signaling factors as well as some morphological alterations in the epidermis. Reduced resilience against environmental factors and oxidative stress often makes the treatment with corticosteroids or tacrolismus ointments indispensable. In view of the correlation between oxidative stress and AD pathological factors, antioxidants can be incorporated into AD management strategies. This study investigates a curly kale, apple and green tea-containing natural extract rich in antioxidants for its effects on signaling inflammatory molecules and skin barrier enhancement in human epidermal keratinocytes- (NHEKs) based cell assays. Furthermore, the skin penetration on porcine ears was measured ex vivo using Raman micro spectroscopy. Finally, in a double-blind half-side, placebo-controlled clinical study, the effects of a formulation containing this extract were analyzed for the influence of lesion severity, epidermal barrier function, and pruritus in mild to moderately AD patients. Summarizing our results: The extract reduces expression of inflammatory cytokines in keratinocytes and increases barrier-related molecules. The verum formulation with a very high antioxidant capacity used in AD patients with mild to moderate lesions reduces itching, local SCORAD, and improves barrier function and the hydration of skin lesions.