The skin aging exposome

[Skin aging exposome]

The skin is a barrier organ and thus exposed to environmental factors from birth, which essentially determine skin aging. In order to describe and understand this complex process exactly, we applied the concept of the "exposome" to the environmentally induced skin aging process. In this review, we summarize current knowledge on the skin aging exposome. In this context, we characterize the most important exposomal factors, address their relative importance for skin aging and also the relevance of their mutual interactions. Finally, we discuss the clinical consequences resulting from this concept for an effective prevention of skin aging.

N,N-Dimethylglycine Sodium Salt Exerts Marked Anti-Inflammatory Effects in Various Dermatitis Models and Activates Human Epidermal Keratinocytes by Increasing Proliferation, Migration, and Growth Factor Release

N,N-dimethylglycine (DMG) is a naturally occurring compound being widely used as an oral supplement to improve growth and physical performance. Thus far, its effects on human skin have not been described in the literature. For the first time, we show that N,N-dimethylglycine sodium salt (DMG-Na) promoted the proliferation of cultured human epidermal HaCaT keratinocytes. Even at high doses, DMG-Na did not compromise the cellular viability of these cells. In a scratch wound-closure assay, DMG-Na augmented the rate of wound closure, demonstrating that it promotes keratinocyte migration. Further, DMG-Na treatment of the cells resulted in the upregulation of the synthesis and release of specific growth factors. Intriguingly, DMG-Na also exerted robust anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects, as assessed in three different models of human keratinocytes, mimicking microbial and allergic contact dermatitis as well as psoriasis and UVB irradiation-induced solar dermatitis. These results identify DMG-Na as a highly promising novel active compound to promote epidermal proliferation, regeneration, and repair, and to exert protective functions. Further preclinical and clinical studies are under investigation to prove the seminal impact of topically applied DMG-Na on relevant conditions of the skin and its appendages.

Topical Application of M89PF Containing Vichy Mineralising Water and Probiotic Fractions Prevents Cutaneous Damage Induced by Exposure to UV and O3

Purpose

Exposure of the skin to ultraviolet radiation (UV) or ozone (O₃) results in stressed skin, leading to the alteration of the skin physical barrier and defence functions. In this work, the preventive benefit of a dermocosmetic, M89PF, containing Vichy mineralising water, probiotic fractions, antioxidant vitamins and hyaluronic acid, in the alteration of skin physical barrier and skin defence functions after exposure to O₃ and UV, alone or combined, was assessed.

Methods

Untreated and treated (M89PF) skin explants were exposed to O₃, to UV rays or to O₃+UV. Immunofluorescence was performed for skin barrier, oxidative stress, and inflammatory markers after one and four days of exposure to the pollutants.

Results

M89PF significantly (p≤0.05) prevented the decrease of the expression level of different skin barrier markers, and significantly (p≤0.05) prevented the induction of OxInflammatory markers and inflammasome components by UV, O_3, or both combined.

Conclusion

M89PF prevents skin barrier damage, as well as oxidative stress and inflammatory markers induced by exposome factors, such as UV, O_3, or both combined.

Resistance training rejuvenates aging skin by reducing circulating inflammatory factors and enhancing dermal extracellular matrices

Aerobic training (AT) is suggested to be an effective anti-aging strategy for skin aging. However, the respective effects of resistance training (RT) have not been studied. Therefore, we compared the effects of AT and RT on skin aging in a 16-week intervention in 61 healthy sedentary middle-aged Japanese women. Data from 56 women were available for analysis. Both interventions significantly improved skin elasticity and upper dermal structure, and RT also improved dermal thickness. After the training intervention, expression of dermal extracellular matrix-related genes was increased in normal human primary dermal fibroblasts. AT and RT had different effects on circulating levels of factors, such as cytokines, hormones in serum, and metabolites, and RT increased dermal biglycan (BGN). To our knowledge, this is the first report to show different effects of AT and RT on skin aging and identify the key factors involved in RT-induced skin rejuvenation.

Improvement of Antioxidant Defences in Keratinocytes Grown in Physioxia: Comparison of 2D and 3D Models

Keratinocytes prevent skin photoaging by ensuring the defence against oxidative stress, an excessive production of reactive oxygen species (ROS). They are localized within the epidermis where the oxygen level (1-3% O₂), named physioxia, is low compared to other organs. Oxygen is essential for life but also generates ROS. Most of the in vitro studies on keratinocyte antioxidant capacities are performed under atmospheric oxygen, named normoxia, which is very far from the physiological microenvironment, thus submitting cells to an overoxygenation. The present study is aimed at investigating the antioxidant status of keratinocyte grown under physioxia in both 2D and 3D models. First, we show that the basal antioxidant profiles of keratinocytes display important differences when comparing the HaCaT cell line, primary keratinocytes (NHEK), reconstructed epidermis (RHE), and skin explants. Physioxia was shown to promote a strong proliferation of keratinocytes in monolayers and in RHE, resulting in a thinner epidermis likely due to a slowdown in cell differentiation. Interestingly, cells in physioxia exhibited a lower ROS production upon stress, suggesting a better protection against oxidative stress. To understand this effect, we studied the antioxidant enzymes and reported a lower or equivalent level of mRNA for all enzymes in physioxia conditions compared to normoxia, but a higher activity for catalase and superoxide dismutases, whatever the culture model. The unchanged catalase amount, in NHEK and RHE, suggests an overactivation of the enzyme in physioxia, whereas the higher amount of SOD2 can explain the strong activity. Taken together, our results demonstrate the role of oxygen in the regulation of the antioxidant defences in keratinocytes, topic of particular importance for studying skin aging. Additionally, the present work points out the interest of the choice of both the keratinocyte culture model and the oxygen level to be as close as possible to the in situ skin.

Acetyl Zingerone: A Photostable Multifunctional Skincare Ingredient That Combats Features of Intrinsic and Extrinsic Skin Aging

The cumulative damage skin sustains from exposure to environmental stressors throughout life exerts significant effects on skin aging and cancer development. One of the main ways by which environmental stressors mediate their effects within skin is through induction of reactive oxygen species (ROS). In this review, we chronicle the multiple properties by which acetyl zingerone (AZ) as a skincare ingredient can benefit skin (1) by helping manage overproduction of ROS through multiple routes as an antioxidant, physical quencher and selective chelator, (2) by fortifying protection after UV exposure ends to prevent the type of epidermal DNA damage that correlates with development of skin cancer, (3) by modulating matrisome activity and nurturing the integrity of the extracellular matrix (ECM) within the dermis and (4) through its proficient ability to neutralize singlet oxygen, by stabilizing the ascorbic acid precursor tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THDC) in the dermal microenvironment. This activity improves THDC bioavailability and may blunt pro-inflammatory effects of THDC, such as activation of type I interferon signaling. Moreover, AZ is photostable and can sustain its properties during UV exposure, in contrast to α-tocopherol. All these properties of AZ translate into measurable clinical benefits to improve the visual appearance of photoaged facial skin and to strengthen the skin's own defenses against sun damage.

Hydrangea serrata Hot Water Extract and Its Major Ingredient Hydrangenol Improve Skin Moisturization and Wrinkle Conditions via AP-1 and Akt/PI3K Pathway Upregulation

Hydrangea serrata is a plant grown in Korea and Japan with a particular natural compound, hydrangenol. H. serrata has been researched for its anti-fungal properties, and ability to attenuate allergies and promote muscle growth. Its ability to reduce skin dryness is poorly understood. For that reason, we investigated whether H. serrata hot water extracts (Hs-WE) can moisturize keratinocytes. In clinical studies (Approval Code: GIRB-21929-NY and approval Date: 5 October 2021), skin wrinkles and skin moisturizing levels were improved in subjects applying 0.5% Hs-WE compared to the placebo group. We confirmed the components of Hs-WE from the LC/MS-MS analysis. Hs-WE and hydrangenol did not show cytotoxicity in HaCaT cells at all concentrations. Cell growth was also promoted by Hs-WE (5-20 µg/mL) and hydrangenol (15-60 µM) in a wound healing assay. Skin moisturizing factors were upregulated by the presence of Hs-WE or hydrangenol, and the hyaluronidases (HYAL) were inhibited at the mRNA level. Meanwhile, COL1A1 was increased by the presence of Hs-WE or hydrangenol. MAPK, AP-1, and Akt/PI3k signaling proteins, which are associated with cell proliferation and moisturizing factors, were increased by the administration of Hs-WE and hydrangenol. Has-1, 2, and 3 levels were enhanced via JNK when using the inhibitors of MAPK proteins and Hs-WE and hydrangenol, respectively. Taken together, Hs-WE could be used as cosmeceutical materials for improving skin conditions.

Advances in Plant Polysaccharides as Antiaging Agents: Effects and Signaling Mechanisms

Aging refers to the gradual physiological changes that occur in an organism after reaching adulthood, resulting in senescence and a decline in biological functions, ultimately leading to death. Epidemiological evidence shows that aging is a driving factor in the developing of various diseases, including cardiovascular diseases, neurodegenerative diseases, immune system disorders, cancer, and chronic low-grade inflammation. Natural plant polysaccharides have emerged as crucial food components in delaying the aging process. Therefore, it is essential to continuously investigate plant polysaccharides as potential sources of new pharmaceuticals for aging. Modern pharmacological research indicates that plant polysaccharides can exert antiaging effects by scavenging free radicals, increasing telomerase activity, regulating apoptosis, enhancing immunity, inhibiting glycosylation, improving mitochondrial dysfunction regulating gene expression, activating autophagy, and modulating gut microbiota. Moreover, the antiaging activity of plant polysaccharides is mediated by one or more signaling pathways, including IIS, mTOR, Nrf2, NF-κB, Sirtuin, p53, MAPK, and UPR signaling pathways. This review summarizes the antiaging properties of plant polysaccharides and signaling pathways participating in the polysaccharide-regulating aging process. Finally, we discuss the structure-activity relationships of antiaging polysaccharides.

Clinical and molecular change induced by repeated low-dose visible light exposure in both light-skinned and dark-skinned individuals

BACKGROUND

Visible light (VL) is known to induce pigmentation in dark-skinned individuals and immediate erythema in light-skinned individuals. However, the effects of accumulated low-dose VL exposure across skin types are not well established.

METHODS

Thirty-one healthy subjects with light (Fitzpatrick skin types [FST] I-II, n = 13) and dark (FST V-VI, n = 18) skin types were enrolled. Subjects' buttocks were exposed daily to VL, wavelength 400-700 nm, with a dose of 120 J/cm2 at 50 mW/cm2 , for four consecutive days. Microarray using Affymetrix GeneChip (49,395 genes) was performed followed by qRT-PCR on skin samples.

RESULTS

Repeated low-dose VL irradiation induced immediate pigment darkening and delayed tanning in dark-skinned individuals while no discernable pigmentation and erythema were observed in light-skinned individuals. Top ten upregulated genes by repeated VL exposure in microarray included melanogenic genes such as tyrosinase (TYR), tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TYRP1), dopachrome tautomerase (DCT), premelanosome protein (PMEL), melan-A (MLANA), and solute carrier family 24, member 5 (SLC24A5) and genes involved in inflammation/matrix remodeling/cell signaling including chemokine (C-C motif) ligand 18 (CCL18), BCL2-related protein A1 (BCL2A1), and cartilage oligomeric matrix protein (COMP). In qRT-PCR CCL18 was upregulated in light skin with a greater extent (mean fold change ± SD; 4.03 ± 3.28, p = .04) than in dark-skinned individuals (1.91 ± 1.32, p = .07) while TYR was not significantly upregulated in both skin types.

CONCLUSION

This study highlights the genes upregulated by cumulative VL exposure involved in pigmentation, immune response, oxidation/reduction, and matrix remodeling across skin types providing relevant information on daily solar exposure.

Senescence Induced by UVB in Keratinocytes Impairs Amino Acids Balance

Skin is one of the most exposed organs to external stress. Namely, UV rays are the most harmful stress that could induce important damage leading to skin aging and cancers. At the cellular level, senescence is observed in several skin cell types and contributes to skin aging. However, the origin of skin senescent cells is still unclear but is probably related to exposure to stresses. In this work, we developed an in vitro model of UVB-induced premature senescence in normal human epidermal keratinocytes. UVB-induced senescent keratinocytes display a common senescent phenotype resulting in an irreversible cell cycle arrest, an increase in the proportion of senescence-associated β-galactosidase‒positive cells, unrepaired DNA damage, and a long-term DNA damage response activation. Moreover, UVB-induced senescent keratinocytes secrete senescence-associated secretory phenotype factors that influence cutaneous squamous cell carcinoma cell migration. Finally, a global transcriptomic study highlighted that senescent keratinocytes present a decrease in the expression of several amino acid transporters, which is associated with reduced intracellular levels of glycine, alanine, and leucine. Interestingly, the chemical inhibition of the glycine transporter SLC6A9/Glyt1 triggers senescence features.

Examination of the exposome in an animal model: The impact of high fat diet and rat strain on local and systemic immune markers following occupational welding fume exposure

The goal of this study was to investigate the impact of multiple exposomal factors (genetics, lifestyle factors, environmental/occupational exposures) on pulmonary inflammation and corresponding alterations in local/systemic immune parameters. Accordingly, male Sprague-Dawley (SD) and Brown Norway (BN) rats were maintained on either regular (Reg) or high fat (HF) diets for 24wk. Welding fume (WF) exposure (inhalation) occurred between 7 and 12wk. Rats were euthanized at 7, 12, and 24wk to evaluate local and systemic immune markers corresponding to the baseline, exposure, and recovery phases of the study, respectively. At 7wk, HF-fed animals exhibited several immune alterations (blood leukocyte/neutrophil number, lymph node B-cell proportionality)-effects which were more pronounced in SD rats. Indices of lung injury/inflammation were elevated in all WF-exposed animals at 12wk; however, diet appeared to preferentially impact SD rats at this time point, as several inflammatory markers (lymph node cellularity, lung neutrophils) were further elevated in HF over Reg animals. Overall, SD rats exhibited the greatest capacity for recovery by 24wk. In BN rats, resolution of immune alterations was further compromised by HF diet, as many exposure-induced alterations in local/systemic immune markers were still evident in HF/WF animals at 24wk. Collectively, HF diet appeared to have a greater impact on global immune status and exposure-induced lung injury in SD rats, but a more pronounced effect on inflammation resolution in BN rats. These results illustrate the combined impact of genetic, lifestyle, and environmental factors in modulating immunological responsivity and emphasize the importance of the exposome in shaping biological responses.

Development of multifunctional sunscreens: Evaluation of physico-mechanical and film-forming properties

The exposome consists of several factors such as solar radiation and pollution, which can provoke skin damage and lead to premature skin aging. Thus, the use of multifunctional sunscreens is critical in order to prevent this damage. In addition, film formation is very important to reach the expected SPF. Within this context, the objective of the present study was to develop and evaluate the in vivo SPF, sensory, physico-mechanical, and film-forming properties of sunscreens containing a biopolymer from Tara and red algae. A clinical study of the film-forming effect and of skin hydration was performed by instrumental measurements and by biophysical and skin imaging techniques. The SPF of both formulations, with or without the biopolymer, was 45.6. This result was 10.09% higher than expected. higher than expected. However, the sunscreen added to the biopolymer showed better sensory and texture properties, significantly increased skin hydration and reduced transepidermal water loss. The film-forming property was observed by the analysis of Reflectance Confocal Microscopy images 2, 4, and 6 h after formulation application, and this result was more pronounced for the sunscreen added to the biopolymer. Thus, the film-forming property of the biopolymer was important for prolonging the skin barrier function due to film formation and to obtain more effective and multifunctional sunscreens that provide longer protection.

Food Peptides for the Nutricosmetic Industry

In recent years, numerous reports have described bioactive peptides (biopeptides)/hydrolysates produced from various food sources. Biopeptides are considered interesting for industrial application since they show numerous functional properties (e.g., anti-aging, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties) and technological properties (e.g., solubility, emulsifying, and foaming). Moreover, they have fewer side effects than synthetic drugs. Nevertheless, some challenges must be overcome before their administration via the oral route. The gastric, pancreatic, and small intestinal enzymes and acidic stomach conditions can affect their bioavailability and the levels that can reach the site of action. Some delivery systems have been studied to avoid these problems (e.g., microemulsions, liposomes, solid lipid particles). This paper summarizes the results of studies conducted on biopeptides isolated from plants, marine organisms, animals, and biowaste by-products, discusses their potential application in the nutricosmetic industry, and considers potential delivery systems that could maintain their bioactivity. Our results show that food peptides are environmentally sustainable products that can be used as antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-aging, and anti-inflammatory agents in nutricosmetic formulations. Biopeptide production from biowaste requires expertise in analytical procedures and good manufacturing practice. It is hoped that new analytical procedures can be developed to simplify large-scale production and that the authorities adopt and regulate use of appropriate testing standards to guarantee the population's safety.

Effect of Ultraviolet Radiation and Benzo[a]pyrene Co-Exposure on Skin Biology: Autophagy as a Potential Target

The skin is the outermost protective barrier of the human body. Its role is to protect against different physical, chemical, biological and environmental stressors. The vast majority of studies have focused on investigating the effects of single environmental stressors on skin homeostasis and the induction of several skin disorders, such as cancer or ageing. On the other hand, much fewer studies have explored the consequences of the co-exposure of skin cells to two or more stressors simultaneously, which is much more realistic. In the present study, we investigated, using mass-spectrometry-based proteomic analysis, the dysregulated biological functions in skin explants after their co-exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UV) and benzo[a]pyrene (BaP). We observed that several biological processes were dysregulated, among which autophagy appeared to be significantly downregulated. Furthermore, immunohistochemistry analysis was carried out to validate the downregulation of the autophagy process further. Altogether, the output of this study provides an insight into the biological responses of skin to combined exposure to UV + BaP and highlights autophagy as a potential target that might be considered in the future as a novel candidate for pharmacological intervention under such stress conditions.

Skin Physiology, Mucosal Functions, and Symptoms Are Modulated by Grass Pollen and Ozone Double Exposure in Allergic Patients

INTRODUCTION

Along with climate changes, we see an increase in allergic symptoms and the number of pollen-allergic patients in many countries. Increased allergic symptoms are associated with an elevated ozone exposure which may be linked by impaired epithelial barrier function. This study aimed to quantify the clinical effect of ozone and pollen double exposure (DE). We tested whether ozone impairs barrier-related skin physiology and mucosal functions under DE with pollen in grass pollen-allergic patients versus healthy controls.

METHODS

This case-control study included 8 grass pollen-allergic patients and 8 non-allergic healthy subjects exposed to grass pollen and ozone in the GA2LEN pollen chamber, comparing shorter and longer DE duration. Non-invasive skin physiological parameters were assessed, including stratum corneum hydration, skin redness, surface pH, and basal transepidermal water loss as a parameter for epidermal barrier function. The subjects' general well-being, bronchial, nasal, and ocular symptoms were documented.

RESULTS

Skin physiology tests revealed that DE in allergic patients deteriorates the epidermal barrier function and increases the surface pH and skin redness. DE significantly induced nasal secretion in pollen-allergic versus healthy subjects, which was more pronounced with longer DE. The general well-being was significantly impaired under DE versus pollen or ozone alone, with a negative influence of DE duration. No relevant bronchial symptoms were recorded.

CONCLUSION

Skin physiology and nasal mucosal symptoms are negatively affected by ozone and grass pollen DE in allergic patients. The negative effects showed, in some parameters, a dose (time)-response relationship. The pH can be regarded as a possible modulatory mechanism.

Gardenia jasminoides Extract, with a Melatonin-like Activity, Protects against Digital Stress and Reverses Signs of Aging

Digital stress is a newly identified cosmetic stress that is mainly characterized by blue light exposure. The effects of this stress have become increasingly important with the emergence of personal digital devices, and its deleterious effects on the body are now well-known. Blue light has been observed to cause perturbation of the natural melatonin cycle and skin damage similar to that from UVA exposure, thus leading to premature aging. "A melatonin-like ingredient" was discovered in the extract of Gardenia jasminoides, which acts as a filter against blue light and as a melatonin-like ingredient to prevent and stop premature aging. The extract showed significant protective effects on the mitochondrial network of primary fibroblasts, a significant decrease of -86% in oxidized proteins on skin explants, and preservation of the natural melatonin cycle in the co-cultures of sensory neurons and keratinocytes. Upon analysis using in silico methods, only the crocetin form, released through skin microbiota activation, was found to act as a melatonin-like molecule by interacting with the MT1-receptor, thus confirming its melatonin-like properties. Finally, clinical studies revealed a significant decrease in wrinkle number of -21% in comparison to the placebo. The extract showed strong protection against blue light damage and the prevention of premature aging through its melatonin-like properties.

Identification of Apolipoprotein D as a Dermal Fibroblast Marker of Human Aging for Development of Skin Rejuvenation Therapy

The current understanding of skin aging is that senescent fibroblasts accumulate within the dermis and subcutaneous fat to cause abnormal tissue remodeling and extracellular matrix dysfunction, triggering a senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP). A novel therapeutic approach to prevent skin aging is to specifically eliminate senescent dermal fibroblasts; this requires the identification of specific protein markers for senescent cells. Apolipoprotein D (ApoD) is involved in lipid metabolism and antioxidant responses and is abundantly expressed in tissues affected by age-related diseases such as Alzheimer's disease and atherosclerosis. However, its behavior and role in skin aging remain unclear. In this study, we examined whether ApoD functions as a marker of aging using human dermal fibroblast aging models. In cellular senescence models induced through replicative aging and ionizing radiation exposure, ApoD expression was upregulated at the gene and protein levels and correlated with senescence-associated β-galactosidase activity and the decreased uptake of the proliferation marker bromodeoxyuridine, which was concomitant with the upregulation of SASP genes. Furthermore, ApoD-positive cells were found to be more abundant in the aging human dermis using fluorescence flow cytometry. These results suggest that ApoD is a potential clinical marker for identifying aging dermal fibroblasts.

Collagen supplementation in skin and orthopedic diseases: A review of the literature

Collagen is one of the main components of the extracellular matrix of the dermis and articular cartilage and influences the body's mechanical, organizational, and tissue formation properties. Produced from food industry by-products, it is considered a nutraceutical product widely used as an ingredient or supplement in food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries. This study aimed to conduct a literature review on the scientific evidence regarding the beneficial effects of collagen consumption in the treatment of skin and orthopedic diseases. Literature data have shown that hydrolyzed collagen supplementation promotes skin changes, such as decreased wrinkle formation; increased skin elasticity; increased hydration; increased collagen content, density, and synthesis, which are factors closely associated with aging-related skin damage. Regarding orthopedic changes, collagen supplementation increases bone strength, density, and mass; improves joint stiffness/mobility, and functionality; and reduces pain. These aspects are associated with bone loss due to aging and damage caused by strenuous physical activity. Thus, this review addresses the economic and health potential of this source of amino acids and bioactive peptides extracted from food industry by-products.

The role of cytokines/chemokines in an aging skin immune microenvironment

Reversing or slowing down the skin aging process is one of the most intriguing areas of focus across the social and scientific communities around the world. While aging is considered a universal and inevitable natural process of physiological decline, the aging of the skin is the most apparent visual representation of an individual's health. Aging skin may be objectively defined by epidermal thinning; increased transepidermal water loss; decreased cutaneous barrier function; loss of elasticity, laxity, and textured appearance; and gradual deterioration of the epidermal immune environment. As the largest structure of the immune system and of the body as a whole, the skin is the most vulnerable barrier of defense against the environment. The skin reflects an individual's exposures, lifestyle habits, and overall health. From an immunological perspective, cytokines and chemokines act as a central character in the communicating of the immunity in skin aging. These cell signaling proteins serve as the intercellular communication link. This review aims to elucidate how cell-cell crosstalk through cytokines and chemokines, and the interplay between host cells, infiltrating immune cells, and exogenous factors contribute to the overall aging skin.

Applying sunscreen SPF 50 with high antioxidant capacity during fifteen days improves the dermis echogenicity and reduces the reddish skin undertone

BACKGROUND

Of the many effects induced by UV radiation on the skin, erythema is one of the most well-known features, which is a cutaneous inflammatory reaction correlated with acute photodamage. The utilization of sunscreen may reduce this process.

AIMS

To evaluate the utilization of a sunscreen SPF50 with high antioxidant capacity during 15 days by young men without photoprotection habits.

METHODS

For this, we evaluated erythema, skin hydration properties, and dermis echogenicity using skin imaging techniques. Forty male participants (aged between 18 and 28 years old), 36 without previous photoprotection habits, were recruited, and the erythema was evaluated using a visual score and skin colorimeter. Macroscopic images (VivaCam®) were also obtained. Dermis echogenicity was evaluated using high-frequency ultrasonography. All the participants received a sunscreen SPF 50 to use for 15 days.

RESULTS

The visual score presented a strong correlation (r = 0.8657) with the colorimeter results. Visually and using the biophysical methodologies was possible to observe the reduction of the visual erythema. The dermis echogenicity also improved, probably correlated with the acute inflammation reduction. No alterations were observed in the skin hydration and skin barrier parameters.

CONCLUSIONS

The utilization of complementary and correlated different skin biophysical and imaging techniques in this study allows a better comprehension regarding the skin early photoaging process due the direct sun exposure. The utilization with a SPF 50 sunscreen with high antioxidant potential allows for a reduction in the erythema after 15 days of usage, a quick result, however, did not improved the skin barrier or SC hydration.

Skin Aging Exposome in Skin of Color Populations: Review of the Literature

BACKGROUND

As life expectancy increases, the comorbidities related to aging require greater attention. Skin aging exposomes were only recently defined and need additional delineation, particularly in Skin of Color (SOC) populations.

OBJECTIVE

The primary objective is to shed the light and summarize the existing literature on skin aging exposome in SOC populations.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

We performed an extensive search in the PubMed and Google Scholar databases. We included peer-reviewed studies in SOC populations around the world regarding one or more of the skin aging exposome factors, and we grouped and organized the studies under each factor of the skin aging exposome.

RESULTS

Some environmental exposome factors are preventable or modifiable, for example, by applying broad-spectrum sunscreens with visible light protection, improving nutrition, and smoking cessation. Other factors such as air pollution will require more complex solutions. Our search revealed a paucity of references on skin aging exposome factors in SOC populations.

CONCLUSION

We identified the need for more dedicated studies in SOC populations to advance knowledge on skin aging exposome factors. This knowledge will provide a better understanding of approaches to minimize extrinsic skin aging in these populations.

A Study of Efficacy and Safety of Ashwagandha (Withania somnifera) Lotion on Facial Skin in Photoaged Healthy Adults

Background Facial skin has an essential cosmetic function in both men and women, and photoaged skin can affect the quality of life in healthy people. Ashwagandha (Withania somnifera) which is also called Indian ginseng has adaptogenic properties and is used in traditional Indian medicine to maintain balance, energize, and rejuvenate. Objective This randomized, double-blind, and placebo-controlled study assessed the efficacy and safety of topical application of lotion containing 8% standardized Ashwagandha root extract on improvement of skin parameters in the photoaged facial skin of healthy subjects. Methods Fifty-six healthy men and women aged between 18 and 60 years with Fitzpatrick phototype III-VI skin grade were randomized to receive the topical application (lotion on facial skin) of either Ashwagandha 8% (AG, n=28), or an identical placebo (PL, n=28) for 60 days. The primary outcome was the change from baseline on day 60 in the scores for global physician assessment scoring for the five dermatological signs (skin wrinkles, pores, hydration/moisture, skin brightness/tone, and pigmentation) on facial skin. Secondary outcomes were changes from baseline in the transepidermal water loss (TEWL), melanin index, hydration, and skin elasticity (R2 ratio). Another efficacy outcome was quality of life using the health-specific Short Form Health Survey-12 (SF-12). Safety was assessed using local reactions and adverse events. Three (1 AG, 2 PL) patients were lost to follow-up and per-protocol (PP) data included 53 patients (27 AG, 26 PL). For measurement data, repeated measures analysis of variance (ANOVA) was used to assess treatment effect at different time periods in the PP dataset (n=53). Two groups were compared for differences using a t-test for continuous data or a Mann-Whitney 'U' test for ordinal data. Adverse events were compared between two groups using the chi-square test. Results Greater reduction (p<0.0001) in total physician assessment scores from baseline to day 60 was observed with AG (-74.69%) compared to PL (-48.68%). There was a greater improvement in TEWL, skin hydration, and skin elasticity (R2 ratio) with AG as compared to placebo (p<0.0001). However, the change in melanin index was similar in the two groups at the end of day 60 (p=0.969). The percentage increase in melanin index from baseline to day 60 in the PP dataset was by -2.82% with AG and -1.78% with PL, whereas the percentage reduction in TEWL from baseline to day 60 in the PP dataset was by -15.12% with AG and -8.34% with PL. Similarly, greater percentage improvements were seen with AG as compared to PL for skin hydration (20.66% with AG and 9.5% with PL) and elasticity was assessed by the R2 ratio (16.34% with AG and 3.73% with PL). Adverse events were comparable in the two groups. Conclusions Topical application of a lotion containing Ashwagandha standardized root extract improves the skin condition and quality of life in photoaged healthy individuals. Further studies with different skin types and standard comparators are warranted to substantiate these claims of benefit.

Nanocrystals as an emerging nanocarrier for the management of dermatological diseases

Skin conditions are amongst the most prevalent health issues in the world and come with a heavy economic, social, and psychological burden. Incurable and chronic skin conditions like eczema, psoriasis, fungal infections are linked to major morbidity in the manner of physical pain and a reduction in quality life of patients. Several drugs have difficulties for penetrating the skin due to the barrier mechanism of the skin layers and the incompatible physicochemical characteristics of the drugs. This has led to the introduction of innovative drug delivery methods. Currently, formulations depend on nanocrystals have indeed been researched for topical administration of drugs and have resulted in enhanced skin penetration. This review focuses on skin penetration barriers, modern methods to enhance topical distribution, and the use of nanocrystals to overcome these barriers. By means of mechanisms such as adherence to skin, creation of diffusional corona, targeting of hair follicles, and the generation of a greater concentration gradient throughout the skin, nanocrystals could enhance transport across the skin. Scientists working on product formulations incorporating chemicals that are "challenging-to-deliver" topically may find the most current findings to be of relevance.

Microbiota, Oxidative Stress, and Skin Cancer: An Unexpected Triangle

Mounting evidence indicates that the microbiota, the unique combination of micro-organisms residing in a specific environment, plays an essential role in the development of a wide range of human diseases, including skin cancer. Moreover, a persistent imbalance of microbial community, named dysbiosis, can also be associated with oxidative stress, a well-known emerging force involved in the pathogenesis of several human diseases, including cutaneous malignancies. Although their interplay has been somewhat suggested, the connection between microbiota, oxidative stress, and skin cancer is a largely unexplored field. In the present review, we discuss the current knowledge on these topics, suggesting potential therapeutic strategies.

Use of Natural Agents and Agrifood Wastes for the Treatment of Skin Photoaging

Photoaging is the premature aging of the skin caused by repeated exposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays. The harmful effects of UV rays-from the sun or from artificial sources-alter normal skin structures and cause visible damage, especially in the most exposed areas. Fighting premature aging is one of the most important challenges of the medical landscape. Additionally, consumers are looking for care products that offer multiple benefits with reduced environmental and economic impact. The growing requests for bioactive compounds from aromatic plants for pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications have to find new sustainable methods to increase the effectiveness of new active formulations derived from eco-compatible technologies. The principle of sustainable practices and the circular economy favor the use of bioactive components derived from recycled biomass. The guidelines of the European Commission support the reuse of various types of organic biomass and organic waste, thus transforming waste management problems into economic opportunities. This review aims to elucidate the main mechanisms of photoaging and how these can be managed using natural renewable sources and specific bioactive derivatives, such as humic extracts from recycled organic biomass, as potential new actors in modern medicine.

Benefits of the Dermocosmetic Mineral 89 Probiotic Fractions Adjunct to Topical Retinoids for Anti-Aging Benefits

Purpose

Tretinoin is a topical gold standard for photoaging treatment. However, patient adherence can be impaired by local tolerability in the first 1-2 weeks of treatment. Mineral 89 Probiotic Fractions^® (M89PF) containing Vichy volcanic mineralizing water^®, probiotic fractions, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and tocopherol was developed to fulfill the need for adjunctive products that can reinforce skin barrier and manage retinoid induced irritation.

Patients and Methods

The study included 38 women, aged 44-60 years, phototype II-VI, applying 0.025% tretinoin gel once nightly for 84 days. For 28 days, one hemi face was treated with M89PF and sunscreen SPF 50+ while other hemi face received sunscreen only. Then, M89PF application was changed to full face. Evaluations were performed at days 0, 7, 28 and 84. Erythema, dryness, fine lines, skin tone, radiance and pore appearance were assessed by a dermatologist. Tolerability was evaluated through self-assessment questionnaire. Skin hydration levels, inflammatory and oxidative stress biomarkers were analyzed by immunological assay: Interleukin(IL)-8, IL1-alpha, IL1-Receptor Antagonist (IL-1Ra), Prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), Catalase and Superoxide Dismutase (SOD).

Results

Hemiface analysis showed that erythema, fine lines, skin tone, radiance, pore appearance, hydration, tightness, dryness, burning, itching and stinging sensations were improved (p<0.05) on the M89PF side. At full face analysis on D84, erythema, fine lines, skin tone, radiance and pore appearance were improved compared to D0 (p<0.001). Tightness, dryness, burning, itching and stinging were reduced when compared to D7 (p<0.05). Dermatology Life Quality Index (DLQI) and Skindex 16 showed improvement in quality of life (p<0.05). IL-1RA increased at D28 (p=0.003) and PGE2 decreased at D28 and D84 compared to D0 (p<0.01).

Conclusion

M89PF reduced retinoid induced irritation with a good tolerability profile and, used as an adjunct to topical tretinoin, significantly improved skin hydration, erythema, fine lines, skin tone, radiance and pore appearance.

Cumulative UV Exposure or a Modified SCINEXA™-Skin Aging Score Do Not Play a Substantial Role in Predicting the Risk of Developing Keratinocyte Cancers after Solid Organ Transplantation-A Case Control Study

The risk of keratinocyte cancer is determined by intrinsic and extrinsic factors, which also influence skin aging. Few studies have linked skin aging and UV exposure with the incidence of non-melanoma skin cancer (NMSC). We evaluated signs of actinic skin damage and aging, individual UV burden, and melanocortin-1 receptor (MC1R) variants. A total of 194 organ transplant recipients (OTR) who suffered from NMSC were compared to 194 tumor-free controls matched for gender, age, type of transplanted organ, post-transplantation (TX) period, and immunosuppressive therapy. Compared with the cases, the controls scored higher in all skin aging scores and there were no differences in UV burden except for intentional whole-body UV exposure for specific UV scenarios and periods of life in favor of cases. The number of NMSCs correlated with all types of skin aging scores, the extent of intentional sun exposure, older age, longer post-TX period, shorter interval from TX to first NMSC, and specific MC1R risk groups. Multivariable models revealed a 7.5-fold risk of developing NMSC in individuals with actinic keratosis; 4.1- or 3.6-fold in those with green or blue eyes, respectively; and a 1.9-fold increased risk in the MC1R medium- + high-risk group. In the absence of skin aging contributing to NMSC development, certain MC1R risk types may identify OTR at risk for high tumor burden.

A Proteome-Centric View of Ageing, including that of the Skin and Age-Related Diseases: Considerations of a Common Cause and Common Preventative and Curative Interventions

The proteome comprises all proteins of a cell or organism. To carry their catalytic and structure-related functions, proteins must be correctly folded into their unique native three-dimensional structures. Common oxidative protein damage affects their functionality by impairing their catalytic and interactive specificities. Oxidative damage occurs preferentially to misfolded proteins and fixes the misfolded state. This review provides an overview of the mechanism and consequences of oxidative proteome damage - specifically irreversible protein carbonylation - in relation to ageing, including that of the skin as well as to age-related degeneration and diseases (ARDD) and their mitigation. A literature review of published manuscripts, available from PubMed, focusing on proteome, proteostasis, proteotoxicity, protein carbonylation, related inflammatory diseases, ARDD and the impact of the damaged proteome on ageing. During ageing, proteome damage, especially protein carbonylation, correlates with biological age. Carbonylated proteins form aggregates which can be considered as markers and accelerators of ageing and are common markers of most ARDD. Protein carbonylation leads to general ageing of the organism and organs including the skin and potentially to diseases including Alzheimer and Parkinson disease, diabetes, psoriasis, and skin cancer. Current research is promising and may open new therapeutic approaches and perspectives by targeting proteome protection as an age and ARDD management strategy.

Cosmetic Formulations with Melaleuca alternifolia Essential Oil for the Improvement of Photoaged Skin: A Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Study

This aim of this study was to evaluate the penetration depth, antioxidant capacity and the clinical efficacy of Melaleuca alternifolia pure essential oil and in a nanoemulsion to prevent skin photoaging. For this, 2% of pure essential oil or 2% of this essential oil in a nanoemulsion were vehiculated in a formulation. The skin penetration was evaluated using confocal Raman microspectroscopy. The radical protection factor was evaluated using electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy. For a clinical study, 40 male participants, aged 18-28 years, were enrolled, being divided into three groups: vehicle formulation, M. alternifolia pure essential oil and M. alternifolia Nanoemulsion. All the participants also received a sunscreen SPF 50 to use during the day. Before and after 90 days of study, skin hydrolipidics and morphological characteristics were performed by skin imaging and biophysical techniques. The nanoemulsion presented a lower antioxidant capacity and a higher penetration through the stratum corneum, reaching the viable epidermis, improving the stratum granulosum morphology. The groups presented an increase in the papillary depth, improving in the dermis echogenicity and the collagen fibers. Melaleuca alternifolia essential provides the potential to improve photoaged skin, being the application of nanoemulsion able to reach deeper skin layers.

The association between air pollution, meteorological factors, and daily outpatient visits for urticaria in Shijiazhuang, Hebei Province, China: a time series analysis

The associations of air pollution and meteorological factors with the outpatient visits of urticaria remain poorly studied. This study aimed to assess the association between air pollution, meteorological factors, and daily outpatient visits for urticaria in Shijiazhuang, China, during 2014-2019. Daily recordings of air pollutant concentrations, meteorological data, and outpatient visits data for urticaria were collected during the 6 years. Descriptive research methods were used to describe the distribution characteristics and demographic features of urticaria. A combination of the generalized linear regression model (GLM) and distribution lag nonlinear model (DLNM) was used to evaluate the lag association between environmental factors and daily outpatient visits for urticaria. Stratified analyses by gender (male; female) and age (< 18 years; 18-39 years; > 39 years) were further conducted. The dose-response relationship between daily urticaria visits and CO, NO₂, O₃, temperature, and relative humidity was nonlinear. High concentrations of CO, NO₂, O₃, and high temperatures increased the risk of urticaria outpatient visits. The maximum cumulative association of high concentrations of CO, NO₂, and O₃ was lag 0-14 days (CO: RR = 1.10, 95%CI: 1.06, 1.31; NO₂: RR = 1.09, 95%CI: 1.01, 1.08; O₃: RR = 1.16, 95%CI: 1.08, 1.25), and high temperatures was lag 0-7 days (RR = 1.27, 95%CI: 1.14, 1.41). Low concentrations of NO₂, O₃, and high humidity, on the other hand, act as protective factors for urticaria outpatient. The maximum cumulative association of low concentrations of NO₂ was the 0-day lag (RR = 0.97, 95%CI: 0.95, 0.99), O₃ was lag 0-5 days (RR = 0.94, 95%CI: 0.88, 0.99), and high humidity was lag 0-10 days (RR = 0.93, 95%CI: 0.89, 0.98). Stratified analyses showed that the risk of urticaria outpatient visits was higher for the males and in the < 18 years age group. In conclusion, we found that the development of urticaria in Shijiazhuang has a distinct seasonal and cyclical nature. Air pollutants and meteorological factors had varying degrees of influence on the risk of urticaria outpatient visits. This study provides indirect evidence for a link between air pollution, meteorological factors, and urticaria outpatient visits.

Assessing the effect of cleansing products on artificially polluted human hairs and skin through in vivo and in vitro models

OBJECTIVE

Based on in vivo data, in vitro models and new methods are created to mimic the impact of aerial pollution onto the hair surface and assess the efficacy of different formulae prototypes.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

Two protocols are developed to mimic the pollution effect, in vitro, on purchased swatches, and in vivo, on scalps and forearms. First, with an artificial sebum mixed with Carbon Black particles, named "sebollution," we evaluated, through an instrumental color measurement, the cleansing efficacy of some shampoo on scalp and hair. The second protocol allowed to assess the interaction between hair care product deposit (shampoo, conditioner, mask, and leave-on) on hair and carbon black particles spread on fiber. The quantification of particle coverage allowed to evaluate the efficiency of a formula to limit the aerial pollution deposit on hair fiber.

RESULTS

To simplify and accelerate the evaluation of 42 shampoo formulae, an extrapolation of the scalp cleaning process was validated on forearm. The respective cleanabilities were calculated and covered a large range of efficacy, from 5%, for a basic bland shampoo generally used to reset swatches, to a strong deep cleansing efficacy of 100%. On hair swatches, cleanability efficiencies of five shampoo were also evaluated to eliminate the deposited of sebollution, in a range of 40%-80%. To quantify the efficacy of preventing the deposition of carbon particle on hair surface, the percentage of coverage of 45 different products was measured, from 2% to 16%. The performance depended of the product category (shampoo, conditioner, mask, and leave-on), driven by the performance of the product deposit, and the capacity of this deposit to interact with aerial pollution.

CONCLUSION

Three new protocols and evaluation methods are proposed to evaluate and quantify the performance of hair care product, to remove/clean, limit, and protect the hair fibers against the aerial pollution that could interact with hair, scalp and sebum. The validation of these approaches was done through the testing of a large panel of hair care product leading to a complete and sincere evaluation of cleansing and anti-deposit efficacy. Combining the knowledge acquired on pollution impact on hair and the development of specific way of evaluation, this work reinforced the rationale of using and developing new cosmetic products that reduced the impact of pollution upon some hair properties.

NRF2 in dermo-cosmetic: From scientific knowledge to skin care products

The skin is the organ that is most susceptible to the impact of the exposome. Located at the interface with the external environment, it protects internal organs through the barrier function of the epidermis. It must adapt to the consequences of the harmful effects of solar radiation, the various chemical constituents of atmospheric pollution, and wounds associated with mechanical damage: oxidation, cytotoxicity, inflammation, and so forth. In this biological context, a capacity to adapt to the various stresses caused by the exposome is essential; otherwise, more or less serious conditions may develop accelerated aging, pigmentation disorders, atopy, psoriasis, and skin cancers. Nrf2-controlled pathways play a key role at this level. Nrf2 is a transcription factor that controls genes involved in oxidative stress protection and detoxification of chemicals. Its involvement in UV protection, reduction of inflammation in processes associated with healing, epidermal differentiation for barrier function, and hair regrowth, has been demonstrated. The modulation of Nrf2 in the skin may therefore constitute a skin protection or care strategy for certain dermatological stresses and disorders initiated or aggravated by the exposome. Nrf2 inducers can act through different modes of action. Keap1-dependent mechanisms include modification of the cysteine residues of Keap1 by (pro)electrophiles or prooxidants, and disruption of the Keap1-Nrf2 complex. Indirect mechanisms are suggested for numerous phytochemicals, acting on upstream pathways, or via hormesis. While developing novel and safe Nrf2 modulators for skin care may be challenging, new avenues can arise from natural compounds-based molecular modeling and emerging concepts such as epigenetic regulation.

Evaluation and characterization of facial skin aging using optical coherence tomography

OBJECTIVES

The skin aging exposome encompasses internal and external factors that contribute to clinical signs of facial aging. Aging skin can be characterized by distinctive features such as wrinkles, lentigines, elastosis, and roughness. Optical coherence tomography (OCT) is capable of noninvasively measuring skin characteristics. This study aimed to assess bilateral features using OCT to explore temporal skin changes among decades and potential changes in facial skin aging based on laterality.

METHODS

A total of 97 subjects between 20 and 89 years old with Fitzpatrick skin types I to IV were enrolled. VivoSight, a Multi-Beam OCT system intended to gather topographical and histological images of skin, was used to scan the area inferolateral to the lateral canthus, bilaterally. Investigators compared characteristics of skin roughness, attenuation coefficient and blood flow across age groups and based on laterality to determine any differences.

RESULTS

Only data from successful OCT scans were used. Seventy subjects, 10 from each specified decade, had successful bilateral scans and were thus included in the analysis. Chronological aging was characterized by significantly decreased dermal attenuation coefficient with increased age. Skin roughness measurements showed trends of increased roughness with age; however, no statistically significant changes were seen between groups. Qualitative differences amongst scans taken on right and left sides of the face showed no significance regarding roughness, density or blood flow at depths ranging from 0.05 to 0.5 mm.

CONCLUSIONS

OCT is an effective method for evaluating changes in aging skin. Our results illustrate a decline in skin density with chronological age. Additionally, it was illustrated that structural change in the epidermis and dermis does occur, however on a microscopic scale, there are no significant differences based on laterality. OCT holds promise as a noninvasive technique for characterization of aging skin. Its utility and application in the clinical management and treatment of aged skin requires further research; however, the technology has potential to personalize therapies based on objective findings.

Hydrolipidic Characteristics and Clinical Efficacy of a Dermocosmetic Formulation for the Improvement of Homeostasis on Oily Mature Skin

BACKGROUND

Although the scientific literature associates mature skin with dry skin and the secretion of sebum on the face decreases over the years, in tropical countries, such as Brazil, mature skin can still present oily characteristics. Thus, the knowledge of the hydrophilic characteristics of mature skin is fundamental to help the development of more effective treatments for this skin type. In this context, the study aimed to evaluate the hydrophilic characteristics and the clinical efficacy of a cosmetic formulation for mature skin added with alfalfa and lentil extracts by using biophysical and skin imaging techniques.

METHODS

Twenty-eight healthy females aged between 45 and 59 years were enrolled. Measurements of the stratum corneum water content, sebum content, transepidermal water loss, skin microrelief, and pores count were performed before and after the 28-day formulation application.

RESULTS

The mature skin presented as oily with wrinkles and pores. The proposed formulation significantly reduced the sebum content and the number of fine and large pores and improved skin microrelief and hydration after a 28-day period of the application when compared to the vehicle.

CONCLUSIONS

The proposed formulation was effective in oily mature skin treatment, improving its general skin aging and oiliness conditions, and reducing pores count in just 28 days.

The Human Dermis as a Target of Nanoparticles for Treating Skin Conditions

Skin has a preventive role against any damage raised by harmful microorganisms and physical and chemical assaults from the external environment that could affect the body's internal organs. Dermis represents the main section of the skin, and its contribution to skin physiology is critical due to its diverse cellularity, vasculature, and release of molecular mediators involved in the extracellular matrix maintenance and modulation of the immune response. Skin structure and complexity limit the transport of substances, promoting the study of different types of nanoparticles that penetrate the skin layers under different mechanisms intended for skin illness treatments and dermo-cosmetic applications. In this work, we present a detailed morphological description of the dermis in terms of its structures and resident cells. Furthermore, we analyze the role of the dermis in regulating skin homeostasis and its alterations in pathophysiological conditions, highlighting its potential as a therapeutic target. Additionally, we describe the use of nanoparticles for skin illness treatments focused on dermis release and promote the use of metal-organic frameworks (MOFs) as an integrative strategy for skin treatments.

Current Understanding of the Role of Senescent Melanocytes in Skin Ageing

Melanocytes reside within the basal epidermis of human skin, and function to protect the skin from ultraviolet light through the production of melanin. Prolonged exposure of the skin to UV light can induce irreparable DNA damage and drive cells into senescence, a sustained cell cycle arrest that prevents the propagation of this damage. Senescent cells can also be detrimental and contribute to skin ageing phenotypes through their senescence-associated secretory phenotype. Senescent cells can act in both an autocrine and paracrine manner to produce widespread tissue inflammation and skin ageing. Recently, melanocytes have been identified as the main senescent cell population within the epidermis and have been linked to a variety of skin ageing phenotypes, such as epidermal thinning and the presence of wrinkles. However, the literature surrounding melanocyte senescence is limited and tends to focus on the role of senescence in the prevention of melanoma. Therefore, this review aims to explore the current understanding of the contribution of senescent melanocytes to human skin ageing.

Charting the landscape of the environmental exposome

The exposome depicts the total exposures in the lifetime of an organism. Human exposome comprises exposures from environmental and humanistic sources. Biological, chemical, and physical environmental exposures pose potential health threats, especially to susceptible populations. Although still in its nascent stage, we are beginning to recognize the vast and dynamic nature of the exposome. In this review, we systematically summarize the biological and chemical environmental exposomes in three broad environmental matrices-air, soil, and water; each contains several distinct subcategories, along with a brief introduction to the physical exposome. Disease-related environmental exposures are highlighted, and humans are also a major source of disease-related biological exposures. We further discuss the interactions between biological, chemical, and physical exposomes. Finally, we propose a list of outstanding challenges under the exposome research framework that need to be addressed to move the field forward. Taken together, we present a detailed landscape of environmental exposome to prime researchers to join this exciting new field.

Oral Supplementation of Low-Molecular-Weight Collagen Peptides Reduces Skin Wrinkles and Improves Biophysical Properties of Skin: A Randomized, Double-Blinded, Placebo-Controlled Study

Orally administered collagen peptides could contribute to antiaging by replacing the degraded extracellular matrix proteins caused by photoaging. This study aimed to evaluate the efficacy and safety of low-molecular-weight collagen peptides for treating photoaged and dry skin. In this randomized, placebo-controlled, parallel-group, double-blinded trial, we randomly assigned study participants (n = 100) to either the test product group or placebo group at a 1:1 ratio for 12 weeks. The wrinkle scale score, eye wrinkle volume, roughness parameters, such as the average maximum height of the wrinkle (Rz), arithmetic average within the total measuring length of the wrinkle (Ra), maximum profile valley depth of the wrinkle (Rv), and skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), overall elasticity (R2), and ratio of elastic recovery to total deformation (R7) were evaluated at baseline, 6 weeks, and 12 weeks. Safety assessments with serial blood tests were also conducted. Efficacy assessments of data from 84 participants were conducted as the per-protocol analysis. After 12 weeks, the 10-grade crow's feet photo scale score, eye wrinkle volume, skin roughness parameters (Rz, Ra, and Rv), skin elasticity (R2 and R7), skin hydration, and TEWL were significantly improved in the test product group compared to the placebo group. There were no adverse events or abnormalities according to laboratory analysis associated with using the test material during the study period. This study showed that the oral supplementation of low-molecular-weight collagen peptides could improve the wrinkles, elasticity, hydration, and barrier integrity of photoaged facial skin. This clinical study was registered with the Korean Clinical Research Information Service and International Clinical Trials Registry Platform (No: KCT0006500).

Benefits of topical hyaluronic acid for skin quality and signs of skin aging: From literature review to clinical evidence

Skin aging goes beyond a chronological process and also results from extrinsic factors referred to as the exposome. Hyaluronic acid (HA) is an important component of the extracellular matrix, with loss starting at 25 years old. While many studies of HA concern topical use, few literature reviews only address the use of topical HA in dermatology. This review describes the different characteristics of HA-containing cosmeceuticals, with a focus on skin aging and the impact of exposome factors on HA synthesis and degradation. A review was performed using the terms HA, hyaluronan, topical, dermatology, cosmetic, aging treatment, exposome, and cosmeceuticals. Results are also presented from a recent randomized controlled trial (RCT), which investigated the additional benefit of using a HA epidermic filler (HA-filler serum) combined with Botulinum toxin type A (BoNTA) to treat signs of skin aging. Subjects were randomized to two groups: HA-filler serum starting 24 h after the BoNTA injection then twice daily for 24 weeks, or the control group, which received BoNTA. HA is a key ingredient used in cosmeceuticals for its hydration/antiaging properties (hygroscopic, rheological, and viscoelastic). Several clinical studies indicate that HA is both well tolerated and effective, adjuvant to both post-surgical and facial rejuvenation procedures. In the RCT, one of few studies to combine BoNTA and HA with a 6-month follow-up, the HA-filler serum lengthened the duration of BoNTA's effect in reducing wrinkles. Numerous studies support HA-based cosmeceuticals as a noninvasive, effective solution for improving skin hydration and rejuvenation.

Commentary: Facial Aesthetic Dermatological Procedures and Photoprotection in Chinese Populations

The medical literature on aesthetic dermatology has primarily focused on a light-skinned patient population, yet patients of darker skin types have different needs and priorities. In Chinese individuals, key concerns include altered pigmentation, which is perceived to age the individual, and also relates to the Chinese cultural standard of beauty of fair skin; many seek aesthetic treatment for this. Non-invasive cosmetic procedures such as lasers and injections are also gaining in popularity in the Chinese market, but this population is prone to hyperpigmentation as an adverse effect of such procedures. Considered and tailored approaches, both to primary concerns of photoaging and the side effects of cosmetic treatments, are warranted.

Organophosphorus Flame Retardant TCPP Induces Cellular Senescence in Normal Human Skin Keratinocytes: Implication for Skin Aging

Tris (1-chloro-2-propyl) phosphate (TCPP) is one of the most frequently detected organophosphorus flames in the environment. Continuous daily exposure to TCPP may harm human skin. However, little is known about the adverse effects of TCPP on human skin. In this study, we first evaluated the detrimental effects and tried to uncover the underlying mechanisms of TCPP on human skin keratinocytes (HaCaT) after 24 h exposure. We found that TCPP caused a concentration-dependent decrease in HaCaT cell viability after exposure to 1.56-400 μg/mL for 24 h, with an IC₅₀ of 275 μg/mL. TCPP also promoted the generation of intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) and triggered DNA damage, evidenced by an increase of phosphorylated histone H2A.X (γH2A.X) in the nucleus. Furthermore, the cell cycle was arrested at the G1 phase at 100 μg/mL by upregulation of the mRNA expression of p53 and p21 and downregulation of cyclin D1 and CDK4 expression. Additionally, both the senescence-associated-β-galactosidase activity and related proinflammatory cytokine IL-1β and IL-6 were elevated, indicating that TCPP exposure caused cellular senescence may be through the p53-dependent DNA damage signal pathway in HaCaT cells. Taken together, our data suggest that flame-retardant exposure may be a key precipitating factor for human skin aging.

Recent Advances in Herbal-Derived Products with Skin Anti-Aging Properties and Cosmetic Applications

Although aesthetic benefits are a desirable effect of the treatment of skin aging, it is also important in controlling several skin diseases, mainly in aged people. The development of new dermocosmetics has rapidly increased due to consumers' demand for non-invasive products with lower adverse effects than those currently available on the market. Natural compounds of plant origin and herbal-derived formulations have been popularized due to their various safe active products, which act through different mechanisms of action on several signaling pathways for skin aging. Based on this, the aim of the review was to identify the recent advances in herbal-derived product research, including herbal formulations and isolated compounds with skin anti-aging properties. The studies evaluated the biological effects of herbal-derived products in in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo studies, highlighting the effects that were reported in clinical trials with available pharmacodynamics data that support their protective effects to treat, prevent, or control human skin aging. Thus, it was possible to identify that gallic and ferulic acids and herbal formulations containing Thymus vulgaris, Panax ginseng, Triticum aestivum, or Andrographis paniculata are the most promising natural products for the development of new dermocosmetics with skin anti-aging properties.

Chronic infrared-A irradiation-induced photoaging of human dermal fibroblasts from different donors at physiological temperature

BACKGROUND

In this study, we examined cellular responses to acute and chronic IRA irradiation at mild and natural levels of exposure in two types of human fibroblasts, each isolated from a different donor, at physiological temperature (34°C).

METHOD

Two types of human dermal fibroblasts (derived from a 20- and 50-year-old women, respectively) were exposed to different repeat numbers of IRA exposure (3, 6, 10, and 14 times; 42 mW/cm² ) at a frequency of 3-4 times per week (4 h per irradiation). Cellular responses to acute and chronic IRA irradiation were examined by reactive oxygen species (ROS) level, apoptotic signals, cellular morphology, and collagen level.

RESULTS

We demonstrated that chronic IRA irradiation-induced severe cellular damage, including prolonged cell proliferation, increased intracellular ROS levels, activated cellular apoptosis, and elongated cell morphology, whereas acute IRA irradiation had negligible effects at 34°C. In addition, it was evident that the degree of cellular damage due to IRA irradiation differed according to the type of fibroblasts.

CONCLUSIONS

Considering the severe cellular damage induced by chronic IRA irradiation without heat, continuous exposure of skin to IRA irradiation during daily life may be harmful enough to induce photoaging.

A cross-sectional study of Chinese women facial skin status with environmental factors and individual lifestyles

Geographical, environmental and pollution conditions affect facial skin health, but their effects on skin appearance have not been elucidated. This study aimed to describe the skin barrier and skin tone characteristics of Chinese subjects according to lifestyle and environmental conditions using in vitro measurements. In total, 1092 women aged 22-42 years were recruited from 7 representative Chinese cities. Eight skin parameters (hydration, sebum, pH, transdermal water loss, individual type angle, melanin index, erythema index, yellowness) were measured using noninvasive instruments; individual lifestyle data were also collected. Data on four meteorological factors (air temperature, relative humidity, sunshine duration, wind speed) and seven air pollution indicators (air quality index, fine particulate matter, breathable particulate matter, sulfur dioxide, nitrogen dioxide, carbon monoxide and ozone) were collected in each city from the China Meteorological Administration. Facial skin characteristics differed significantly between cities. Facial skin barrier characteristics and skin tones showed regional differences, with a better skin barrier associated with the western region, as indicated by high skin hydration and sebum secretion and a low pH value. According to the value of transdermal water loss, lighter and darker skin tones were found in the western and southern regions, respectively. Environmental conditions affected facial skin status. Air pollution induced facial skin issues, with fine particulate matter and nitrogen dioxide contributing the most. Individual lifestyles affected the facial skin barrier and skin tone.

Artificial Intelligence Confirming Treatment Success: The Role of Gender- and Age-Specific Scales in Performance Evaluation

In plastic surgery and cosmetic dermatology, photographic data are an invaluable element of research and clinical practice. Additionally, the use of before and after images is a standard documentation method for procedures, and these images are particularly useful in consultations for effective communication with the patient. An artificial intelligence (AI)-based approach has been proven to have significant results in medical dermatology, plastic surgery, and antiaging procedures in recent years, with applications ranging from skin cancer screening to 3D face reconstructions, the prediction of biological age and perceived age. The increasing use of AI and computer vision methods is due to their noninvasive nature and their potential to provide remote diagnostics. This is especially helpful in instances where traveling to a physical office is complicated, as we have experienced in recent years with the global coronavirus pandemic. However, one question remains: how should the results of AI-based analysis be presented to enable personalization? In this paper, the author investigates the benefit of using gender- and age-specific scales to present skin parameter scores calculated using AI-based systems when analyzing image data.

Application of a Reflectance Confocal Microscopy Imaging Analysis Score for the Evaluation of Non-Melanogenic Changes in Male Photoaged Skin

The photoaging process is characterized by skin changes due to ultraviolet radiation exposure and is the principal environmental factor affecting skin aging. Reflectance confocal microscopy permits noninvasive skin imaging to understand how the photoaging process may change skin. Since men do not habitually use a sunscreen, the application of skin imaging techniques is important to understand the influence of sunlight on their skin health. The aim of this study was to develop a score based on RCM imaging analyses to evaluate the morphological and structural changes of the photoaged skin according to literature data. The score was applied in order to determine possible correlations between chronological aging and sunscreen use behavior among men. Thus, 40 men aged 18 to 50 years were recruited, images from the frontal region of their skin were obtained and the score was applied. It was observed that habits are more important than age for the skin photoaging process. Men with photoprotection habits showed overall better skin morphological and structural characteristics regardless of age, demonstrating that sun protection behavior is a major key factor in the understanding of photoaging, so that men should be encouraged to start the use of cosmetic products and to perform selfcare.

An Open-Label Clinical Trial Analyzing the Efficacy of a Novel Telomere-Protecting Antiaging Face Cream

Telomere length, a hallmark of cellular senescence, decreases with age and is associated with age-related diseases. Environmental factors, including dietary and lifestyle factors, can affect the rate at which telomeres shorten, and telomere protection prevents this from happening. The protection of telomeres by natural molecules has been proposed as an antiaging strategy that may play a role in treating age-related diseases. This study investigated the effect of a cycloartane-type triterpene glycoside (astragaloside IV). Astragaloside IV is one of the primary compounds from the aqueous extract of Astragalus membranaceus, and it provides telomere protection both in vitro and in vivo. In a study cohort with 13 participants, telomere length in human skin samples was analyzed after daily treatment for 4 weeks. A comparison of the average median telomere length between the treatment and control groups (5342 bp vs. 4616 bp p = 0.0168) showed significant results. In the second clinical cohort with 20 participants, skin parameters at baseline and after 4 and 8 weeks were measured in vivo. The results show that the product improved hydration by 95%, the skin appeared brighter by 90%, and wrinkle visibility was reduced by 70%. The combination of biologically active compounds in the cream possesses telomere-protecting properties and notable antioxidant activity in vitro and in vivo.