New Trends in Cosmetics: By-Products of Plant Origin and Their Potential Use as Cosmetic Active Ingredients

Design Methodology for the Development of a New Cosmetic Active Based on Prunus domestica L. Leaves Extract

When it comes to the development of new active ingredients for cosmetics, biodiversity is a rich source for inspiration that must be tapped in a sustainable manner to cause no social nor ecological damage. Agri-food by-products are therefore more and more considered as available biomass that can be reused to extract their maximum value to produce new cosmetic ingredients before returning to the biosphere. The process to transform plant waste materials into powerful cosmetic actives is thoroughly described in the present paper via the example of the design of a liquid anti-aging ingredient based on a Prunus domestica L. extract obtained by maceration of plums’ dried leaves in propylene glycol. The subsequent development of an SPE (solid-phase extraction) methodology used to remove the propylene glycol to get access to the extracted molecules is thoroughly described as a means to follow the stability of the ingredient over time once formulated into a finished product.

Vitis vinifera ‘Pinot noir’ leaves as a source of bioactive nutraceutical compounds

V. vinifera ‘Pinot noir’ leaves have a high content of biologically active phytochemical compounds of interest for pharmaceutical and food industries.

Artichoke Polyphenols Produce Skin Anti-Age Effects by Improving Endothelial Cell Integrity and Functionality

Artichoke is a characteristic crop of the Mediterranean area, recognized for its nutritional value and therapeutic properties due to the presence of bioactive components such as polyphenols, inulin, vitamins and minerals. Artichoke is mainly consumed after home and/or industrial processing, and the undersized heads, not suitable for the market, can be used for the recovery of bioactive compounds, such as polyphenols, for cosmetic applications. In this paper, the potential skin anti-age effect of a polyphenolic artichoke extract on endothelial cells was investigated. The methodology used was addressed to evaluate the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities and the improvement of gene expression of some youth markers. The results showed that the artichoke extract was constituted by 87% of chlorogenic, 3,5-O-dicaffeoylquinic, and 1,5-O-dicaffeoylquinic acids. The extract induced important molecular markers responsible for the microcirculation and vasodilatation of endothelial cells, acted as a potential anti-inflammatory agent, protected the lymphatic vessels from oxidative damage by ROS formation, and enhanced the cellular cohesion by reinforcing the tight junction complex. In addition, the artichoke extract, through the modulation of molecular pathways, improved the expression of genes involved in anti-ageing mechanisms. Finally, clinical testing on human subjects highlighted the enhancement by 19.74% of roughness and 11.45% of elasticity from using an artichoke extract cosmetic formulation compared to placebo cream.

Upregulation of Skin-Aging Biomarkers in Aged NHDF Cells by a Sucrose Ester Extract from the Agroindustrial Waste of Physalis peruviana Calyces

As part of a search for new sustainable plant sources of valuable compounds, the EtOAc extract of the discarded calyces of Physalis peruviana fruit was selected for its significant antiaging activity. Eight new sucrose esters (SEs), named peruvioses F-M (1-8), along with three known SEs, peruvioses A (9), peruviose B (10), and nicandrose D (11), were isolated. Their structures were elucidated by comprehensive analyses of their NMR and MS data. A global fragmentation pattern of these SEs was established from their MS data. The SE extract (SEE) at a concentration of 0.5 mg L^-1 upregulated multiple skin-aging biomarkers, namely, collagen I, elastin, and fibrillin-1, in aged normal human dermal fibroblast cells. A 36% increase in collagen I was observed. The elastin and fibrillin-1 contents were fully recovered, and an increase of at least 10% in the production of elastin was observed.

Plant cell culture as emerging technology for production of active cosmetic ingredients

Plants have always been the main source for active cosmetic ingredients, having proven health beneficial effects on human, such as anti-aging, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, UV-protective, anti-cancer, anti-wrinkle, skin soothing, whitening, moisturizing, etc. Extracts from herbal, aromatic and/or medicinal plants have been widely used as effective active ingredients in cosmeceuticals or nutricosmetics, especially in products for topical application and skin-care formulations. However, over the past decade, there has been an increasing interest to plant cell culture - derived active cosmetic ingredients. These are "new generation" of high quality natural products, produced by the modern plan biotechnology methods, which usually showed stronger activities than the plant extracts obtained by the classical methods. In this review, the advantages and the current progress in plant cell culture technology for the production of active cosmetic ingredients have been summarized, and discussed in details within a presented case study for calendula stem cell product development.

Genoprotective Effect of Phyllanthus orbicularis Extract Against UVA, UVB, and Solar Radiation

One approach to protect the human skin against harmful effects of solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation was to use natural products as photoprotectors. In this work, the extract from specie Phyllanthus orbicularis K was evaluated as a protective agent against the photodamage by UVB, UVA artificial lamps, and environmental sunlight exposure. The plasmid DNA solutions were exposed to radiations using the DNA dosimeter system in the presence of plant extract. The DNA repair enzymes, Escherichia coli Formamidopyrimidine-DNA glycosylase (Fpg) and T4 bacteriophage endonuclease V (T4-endo V), were employed to discriminate oxidized DNA damage and cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPD), respectively. The supercoiled and relaxed forms of DNA were separated through electrophoretic migration in agarose gels. These DNA forms were quantified to determine strand break, representing the types of lesion levels. The results showed that, in the presence of P. orbicularis extract, the CPD and oxidative damage were reduced in irradiated DNA samples. The photoprotective effect of extract was more evident for UVB and sunlight radiation than for UVA. This work documented the UV absorbing properties of P. orbicularis aqueous extract and opened up new vistas in its characterization as protective agent against DNA damage induced by environmental sunlight radiation.

Sugar and mineral enriched fraction from olive mill wastewater for promising cosmeceutical application: characterization, in vitro and in vivo studies

Nowadays, agro-food by-products represent a potential low-cost source of biologically active ingredients which have been paid significant attention as nutraceuticals, medicine, food and cosmetics. In a previous study we evaluated the total sugars, metals and polyphenols of olive mill wastewater (OMWW) from a Cerasuola olive cultivar. In the present work we selectively recovered a sugar and mineral enriched fraction (SMEF) from Cerasuola OMWW by a green adsorption/desorption process. The SMEF was mainly found to be composed of monosaccharides and potassium by HPLC-ELSD and ICP-MS. The in vitro cytotoxicity on human fibroblasts, at different concentrations of the fraction, was investigated by MTT and comet assays. In addition, intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, apoptosis and cell morphological changes were examined. The physical stability of a formulation containing the SMEF (1% w/w) and its in vivo skin effects were also assessed.Our results highlighted that the SMEF showed a toxic effect at higher concentrations (i.e. cell viability reduction, DNA fragmentation and morphological alterations) well correlated with high ROS levels. Conversely, at low concentrations (0.5% and 1% w/w), no significant changes were observed. For the first time, through stability studies and in vivo tests, we also demonstrated that the SMEF formulation is stable and safe for topical application, since skin hydration improvement without negative effects was observed after 7 days of its use. Therefore, the SMEF has great potential to be used for cosmeceutical applications.

Natural options for management of melasma, a review

A blemish free, even-toned skin is universally associated with healthy skin. This reasoning makes people desire to have a flawless skin. Melanin is a naturally occurring pigment in humans. This pigment is responsible for skin, hair, and eye color, therefore determines our race and phenotypic appearance. On darker skin types, it is common that melanin production processes malfunctions. These malfunctions often lead to overproduction and secretion of melanin. As a result, unwanted pigmentary problems such melasma occur. Due to unknown etiology and its recurrence in nature, melasma is challenging to treat. The current available melasma treatment options often produce undesired side effects and suboptimum results. First-line topical treatments usually involve hydroquinone or topical steroids. Apart from the irritant reactions, this treatment mode is not suitable for all skin types. Skin care specialists are in search of an effective long-term cosmetics and cosmeceuticals to address hypermelanosis problems. Understanding of naturally occurring depigmenting agents provides an opportunity for more effective ways to manage melasma in all skin types. This review considers the benefits of naturally occurring ingredients which could help address skin pigmentation problems and broaden the choice for skin-lightening treatments.

Cosmetic potentials of Prunus domestica L. leaves

BACKGROUND

The current study presents new insight on the phytochemical content and biological activities of five Prunus domestica L. varieties ('Quetsche blanche de Létricourt', 'Mirabelle de Nancy', 'Perdrigon violet', 'Mirabelle de Provence', 'Reine-claude dorée').

RESULTS

The plum leaves were found to possess promising anti-aging activities by their capacity to inhibit 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), elastase, hyaluronidase and lipoxygenase. After solid phase extraction (SPE), chlorogenic acid, rutin, quercetin and their derivatives were putatively identified by high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with tandem mass spectrometry using an electrospray ionization source (HPLC/ESI-MS/MS).

CONCLUSION

The plum leaf, a by-product, provides an interesting valuable resource for use as a natural cosmetic product or as a food supplement. © 2017 Society of Chemical Industry.

Natural Nanoparticles: A Particular Matter Inspired by Nature

During the last couple of decades, the rapidly advancing field of nanotechnology has produced a wide palette of nanomaterials, most of which are considered as “synthetic” and, among the wider public, are often met with a certain suspicion. Despite the technological sophistication behind many of these materials, “nano” does not always equate with “artificial”. Indeed, nature itself is an excellent nanotechnologist. It provides us with a range of fine particles, from inorganic ash, soot, sulfur and mineral particles found in the air or in wells, to sulfur and selenium nanoparticles produced by many bacteria and yeasts. These nanomaterials are entirely natural, and, not surprisingly, there is a growing interest in the development of natural nanoproducts, for instance in the emerging fields of phyto- and phyco-nanotechnology. This review will highlight some of the most recent—and sometimes unexpected—advances in this exciting and diverse field of research and development. Naturally occurring nanomaterials, artificially produced nanomaterials of natural products as well as naturally occurring or produced nanomaterials of natural products all show their own, particular chemical and physical properties, biological activities and promise for applications, especially in the fields of medicine, nutrition, cosmetics and agriculture. In the future, such natural nanoparticles will not only stimulate research and add a greener outlook to a traditionally high-tech field, they will also provide solutions—pardon—suspensions for a range of problems. Here, we may anticipate specific biogenic factories, valuable new materials based on waste, the effective removal of contaminants as part of nano-bioremediation, and the conversion of poorly soluble substances and materials to biologically available forms for practical uses.

Hydroxycinnamic Acids and Their Derivatives: Cosmeceutical Significance, Challenges and Future Perspectives, a Review

Bioactive compounds from natural sources, due to their widely-recognized benefits, have been exploited as cosmeceutical ingredients. Among them, phenolic acids emerge with a very interesting potential. In this context, this review analyzes hydroxycinnamic acids and their derivatives as multifunctional ingredients for topical application, as well as the limitations associated with their use in cosmetic formulations. Hydroxycinnamic acids and their derivatives display antioxidant, anti-collagenase, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and anti-tyrosinase activities, as well as ultraviolet (UV) protective effects, suggesting that they can be exploited as anti-aging and anti-inflammatory agents, preservatives and hyperpigmentation-correcting ingredients. Due to their poor stability, easy degradation and oxidation, microencapsulation techniques have been employed for topical application, preventing them from degradation and enabling a sustained release. Based on the above findings, hydroxycinnamic acids present high cosmetic potential, but studies addressing the validation of their benefits in cosmetic formulations are still scarce. Furthermore, studies dealing with skin permeation are scarcely available and need to be conducted in order to predict the topical bioavailability of these compounds after application.

Valorisation of the Residues of Coffee Agro-industry: Perspectives and Limitations

Over ten million tonnes of solid residues are generated yearly from coffee agro-industry worldwide, along with larger amounts of wastewaters and cultivation residues. Both wastewaters and solid residues, such as defective coffee beans and spent coffee grounds, along with coffee husks (pulp and mucilage) that constitute around 60% of the wet weight of the fresh fruit, represent a relevant source of pollution and environmental threat, particularly from the widely adopted wet processing of coffee berries. Several attempts have been done to re-use the coffee processing solid residues, which include direct use as fuel in farms, animal feed, fermentation studies, adsorption studies, biodiesel production, briquetting, pelletizing, tannin extraction and production of specialty commodities. For the re-use of wastewaters, biogas production and direct delivery on plantations have been proposed or adopted, along with the treatment through infiltration, irrigation or (anaerobic) lagooning, reed bed and aerobic lagooning. In this study, the possible alternatives for the re-use and valorisation of the coffee processing and plantation are critically reviewed, taking into account the experiences with other agro-industrial residues and wastewaters, in the frame of a sustainable agro-industrial development.

Hesperidin, A Popular Antioxidant Inhibits Melanogenesis via Erk1/2 Mediated MITF Degradation

Regulation of melanogenesis has been the focus of treatment for hyperpigmentary skin disorders. Although hesperidin is one of the most well-known, naturally occurring flavonoids with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect, its anti-melanogenic effect is not known. The present study aims to determine the anti-melanogenic effect of hespiridin as well as its underlying molecular mechanisms. Melanin contents were measured in normal human melanocytes and B16F10 melanoma cells. Protein and mRNA levels of tyrosinase, microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase related protein-1 (TRP-1) and TRP-2 were determined. Melanogenesis-regulating signals were examined. In results, hesperidin strongly inhibited melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity. Hesperidin decreased tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2 protein expression but increased phospho-extracellular signal-regulated kinase 1/2 (p-Erk1/2) expression. Specific inhibitor of Erk1/2 or proteasome inhibitor reversed the inhibition of melanogenesis induced by hesperidin. Taken together, hesperidin, a popular antioxidant, stimulated Erk1/2 phosphorylation which subsequently degraded MITF which resulted in suppression of melanogenic enzymes and melanin synthesis.