From coffee industry waste materials to skin-friendly products with improved skin fat levels

The Use of Carbon Dioxide as a Green Approach to Recover Bioactive Compounds from Spent Coffee Grounds

Spent coffee grounds (SCG) contain bioactive compounds. In this work, given the increasing demand to valorize waste and use green technologies, SCG were submitted to extraction by carbon dioxide (CO₂) in supercritical and liquid conditions. The extraction parameters were varied to obtain the maximum yield with the maximum antioxidant activity. The use of supercritical and liquid CO₂ with 5% ethanol for 1 h provided yields (15 and 16%, respectively) comparable to those obtained by control methods for 5 h and extracts with high total polyphenolic contents (970 and 857 mg GAE/100 g oil, respectively). It also provided extracts with DPPH (3089 and 3136 μmol TE/100 g oil, respectively) and FRAP (4383 and 4324 μmol TE/100 g oil, respectively) antioxidant activity levels higher than those of hexane extracts (372 and 2758 μmol TE/100 g oil, respectively) and comparable to those of ethanol (3492 and 4408 μmol TE/100 g oil, respectively). The SCG extracts exhibited linoleic, palmitic, oleic, and stearic acids (predominant fatty acids) and furans and phenols (predominant volatile organic compounds). They were also characterized by caffeine and individual phenolic acids (chlorogenic, caffeic, ferulic, and 3,4-dihydroxybenzoic acids) with well-known antioxidant and antimicrobial properties; therefore, they could be used in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and food sectors.

Recent patent applications for coffee and coffee by-products as active ingredients in cosmetics

OBJECTIVE

Coffee is one of the most consumed beverages worldwide, and its production and consumption generate large amounts of by-products annually. Coffee by-products and coffee beans are rich in bioactive compounds of great commercial value, including potential applications as active ingredients in skin care products and cosmetic formulations. In addition, there has been growing interest in the use of natural ingredients for cosmetic purposes. Considering the importance of coffee in the world economy, its chemical constituents with potential for cosmetic and dermatological application, and the importance of patents for innovation and technological development, the present study aimed to review recent patents involving coffee and coffee by-product use in cosmetics.

METHODS

This review was carried out using Espacenet. The following inclusion criteria were established: patents that included the terms "coffee" and "skin" in the title, abstract and claims and belonged to the classification A61Q, which is related to the "specific use of cosmetics or similar toilet preparations" considering the International Patent Classification (IPC) or Cooperative Patent Classification (CPC).

RESULTS

Considering the 52 patents analysed, the bean was the main way to obtain extracts (39), followed by green beans (7), silverskin (3), peel and pulp (1), pulp (1) and beans and leaves (1). The formulations are mainly intended for use in nonspecific areas of skin (29), eye areas (12), scalp hair (9) and lip skin (2) with claims of anti-ageing, moisturizers, sun protection, hair growth, anti-dandruff, etc. CONCLUSION: Coffee and its residues have high amounts of phenolic compounds, caffeine, fatty acids and other substances known to have important biological properties for the skin. Coffee and its by-products are promising ingredients to be incorporated into topical formulations, ensuring skin health benefits and reducing the environmental impact.

Chlorogenic Acids and Caffeine from Coffee By-Products: A Review on Skincare Applications

Upcycling is a modern trend in the cosmetic sector, focusing on by-products reuse and waste reduction. Consumers are more aware of the origin of cosmetic products and their environmental impact, promoting the upcycling phenomenon. Converting these raw materials into products of higher quality or value contributes to the final product’s sustainability. In fact, several agri-food by-products that are typically discarded have generated great interest, due to their value-added compounds with high functionality and/or bioactivity. Coffee is well known as a cosmetic ingredient, particularly due to the presence of phenolic compounds, such as chlorogenic acids, and caffeine. Caffeine is widely used in cosmetic formulations due to its photoprotector and anti-aging properties, as well as lipolytic action in cellulitis, and hair regrowth. Chlorogenic acids are powerful antioxidants and exhibit anti-aging and photoprotector abilities. Coffee by-products, such as coffee beans, possess these bioactive compounds and other chemical characteristics that can provide functional properties in cosmetic formulations. Coffee silverskin and spent coffee grounds are high-volume by-products of the coffee industry. Their use has been explored in different cosmetic formulations demonstrating safety, stability, acceptability as well as skin improvement, thus supporting their valorization as natural and sustainable new ingredients in skincare products.

Reusing Waste Coffee Grounds as Electrode Materials: Recent Advances and Future Opportunities

Coffee industry produces more than eight million tons of waste coffee grounds (WCG) annually. These WCG contain caffeine, tannins, and polyphenols and can be of great environmental concern if not properly disposed of. On the other hand, components of WCG are mainly macromolecular cellulose and lignocellulose, which can be utilized as cheap carbon precursors. Accordingly, various forms of carbon materials have been reportedly synthesized from WCG, including activated carbon, mesoporous carbon, carbon nanosheets, carbon nanotubes, graphene sheet fibers (i.e., graphenated carbon nanotubes), and particle-like graphene. Upcycling of various biomass and/or waste into value-added functional materials is of growing significance to offer more sustainable solutions and enable circular economy. In this context, this review offers timely insight on the recent advances of WCG derived carbon as value-added electrode materials. As electrodes, they have shown to possess excellent electrochemical properties and found applications in capacitor/supercapacitor, batteries, electrochemical sensors, owing to their low cost, high electrical conductivity, polarization, and chemical stability. Collectively, these efforts could represent an environmentally friendly and circular economy approach, which could not only help solve the food waste issue, but also generate high performance carbon-based materials for many electrochemical applications.

Spent coffee grounds: A sustainable approach toward novel perspectives of valorization

Coffee is one of the most popular and preferred drinks in the world, being consumed for its refreshing and energizing properties. As a result, the consumption of coffee generates millions of tons of waste, in particular, spent coffee grounds (SCG). On the contrary, food waste recovery is an incredibly sustainable and convenient solution to the growing need for materials, fuels, and chemicals. SCG has been developed as a precious resource of several high value-added products (oil, proteins, minerals, fatty acids, sterols….). Thus, a transformative pathway to a circular economy that involves the valorization of coffee wastes and by-products is currently attracting the attention of researchers worldwide. The potential growth of scientific papers and publications promotes a comprehensive review to determine the research hotspots, knowledge structure, and to consider future avenues and challenges. Therefore, in this paper, we conducted a systematic review based on 275 indexed papers on the composition and valorization of SCG as a prospective environmental source. PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS: SCG can be applied in agro-food industries.

A Review of Recent Advances in Spent Coffee Grounds Upcycle Technologies and Practices

Coffee is the world’s second largest beverage only next to water. After coffee consumption, spent coffee grounds (SCGs) are usually thrown away and eventually end up in landfills. In recent years, technologies and policies are actively under development to change this century old practice, and develop SCGs into value added energy and materials. In this paper, technologies and practices are classified into two categories, those reuses SCGs entirely, and those breakdown SCGs and reuse by components. This article provided a brief review of various ways to reuse SCGs published after 2017, and provided more information on SCG quantity, SCG biochar development for pollutant removal and using SCG upcycle cases for education. SCG upcycle efforts align the best with the UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDG) #12 “ensure sustainable consumption and production patterns,” the resultant fuel products contribute to SDG #7 “affordable and clean energy,” and the resultant biochar products contribute to SDG #6, “clean water and sanitation.”

Optimization of Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction of Spent Coffee Grounds Oil Using Response Surface Methodology

Spent coffee grounds (SCGs) generated in coffee processing for beverages and other products are a very significant organic residue that needs to be properly treated. Waste valorization via oil extraction has the potential to obtain compounds that can be used for producing biodiesel or other high-value products, such as polymers. This work focuses on the ultrasound-assisted extraction of SCG oil using n-hexane as a solvent. Three key process parameters are analyzed: temperature, extraction time, and liquid/solid (L/S) rate of solvent, using a central composite rotatable design (CCRD), an analysis that, to the author’s knowledge, is not yet available in the literature. The data were analyzed using the software StatSoft STATISTICA 13.1 (TIBCO Software Inc., Palo Alto, CA, USA). Results show that all parameters have a statistical influence on the process performance (p < 0.05), being the L/S ratio the most significant, followed by extraction time and temperature. An analysis of variance (ANOVA) showed that the empirical model is a good fit to the experimental data at a 95% confidence level. For the range of conditions considered in this work, the optimal operating conditions for obtaining an oil extraction yield in the range of 12 to 13%wt are a solvent L/S ratio of around 16 mL g−1, for a temperature in the range of 50 to 60 °C, and the longest contact time, limited by the process economics and health and safety issues and also, by the n-hexane boiling temperature.

Preparation of Activated Carbons from Spent Coffee Grounds and Coffee Parchment and Assessment of Their Adsorbent Efficiency

The valorization of coffee wastes through modification to activated carbon has been considered as a low-cost adsorbent with prospective to compete with commercial carbons. So far, very few studies have referred to the valorization of coffee parchment into activated carbon. Moreover, low-cost and efficient activation methods need to be more investigated. The aim of this work was to prepare activated carbon from spent coffee grounds and parchment, and to assess their adsorption performance. The co-calcination processing with calcium carbonate was used to prepare the activated carbons, and their adsorption capacity for organic acids, phenolic compounds and proteins was evaluated. Both spent coffee grounds and parchment showed yields after the calcination and washing treatments of around 9.0%. The adsorption of lactic acid was found to be optimal at pH 2. The maximum adsorption capacity of lactic acid with standard commercial granular activated carbon was 73.78 mg/g, while the values of 32.33 and 14.73 mg/g were registered for the parchment and spent coffee grounds activated carbons, respectively. The Langmuir isotherm showed that lactic acid was adsorbed as a monolayer and distributed homogeneously on the surface. Around 50% of total phenols and protein content from coffee wastewater were adsorbed after treatment with the prepared activated carbons, while 44, 43, and up to 84% of hydrophobic compounds were removed using parchment, spent coffee grounds and commercial activated carbon, respectively; the adsorption efficiencies of hydrophilic compounds ranged between 13 and 48%. Finally, these results illustrate the potential valorization of coffee by-products parchment and spent coffee grounds into activated carbon and their use as low-cost adsorbent for the removal of organic compounds from aqueous solutions.

Spent Coffee Grounds’ Valorization towards the Recovery of Caffeine and Chlorogenic Acid: A Response Surface Methodology Approach

The amount of spent coffee grounds (SCGs) created, represents an environmental challenge worldwide. In this context, the aim of the present study was to exploit the potential of SCGs as a source of bioactive compounds that can be utilized in high value-added products. Thus, a cost-effective and environmentally friendly extraction technique was developed to ensure extracts with high total phenolic content and antioxidant activity, as well as significant amounts of caffeine and chlorogenic acid. Response surface methodology was implemented to evaluate the effects of the main extraction parameters (i.e., time, temperature, and ethanol-to-water ratio) and their interactions on the defined responses. The ethanol ratio was found to be the most significant variable. Then, a set of optimum values was determined (i.e., 7 min, 75 °C, and ethanol:water ratio 5:95), where the predicted values for responses were found to be 5.65% for the yield (Y1), 152.68 mg gallic acid equivalents per L for total phenolic content (Y2), 0.797 μmol Trolox equivalent per mL for the antioxidant activity (Y3), 30.5 ppm for caffeine concentration (Y4), and 17.4 ppm for chlorogenic acid concentration (Y5). Furthermore, the corresponding high experimental values from the validation experiment fitted well to these predictions, clearly clarifying the high potential of SCG extracts for use in high value-added applications.

Synthesis of Dietetic Structured Lipids from Spent Coffee Grounds Crude Oil Catalyzed by Commercial Immobilized Lipases and Immobilized Rhizopus oryzae Lipase on Biochar and Hybrid Support

The aim of this study was the valorization of coffee industry residues, namely spent coffee grounds (SCG) as a source of oil, and silverskin (CS) as a source of both oil and biomass, under the concept of the circular economy. Therefore, crude oil from SCG was used to produce low-calorie structured lipids (SL) for food and pharmaceutical industries, and CS to produce biochar by pyrolysis for biotechnological uses. SL were obtained by acidolysis with caprylic or capric acid, or interesterification with ethyl caprylate or ethyl caprate, in solvent-free media, catalyzed by immobilized sn-1,3 regioselective lipases. Silverskin biochar (BIO) was directly used as enzyme carrier or to produce hybrid organic-silica (HB) supports for enzyme immobilization. Rhizopus oryzae lipase (ROL) immobilized on Amberlite (AMB), silica (SIL), BIO or HB, and the commercial immobilized Thermomyces lanuginosus (Lipozyme TL IM) and Rhizomucor miehei (Lipozyme RM IM) lipases were tested. Lipozyme RM IM showed better results in SL production than Lipozyme TLIM or ROL on BIO, SIL or HB. About 90% triacylglycerol conversion was attained after 7 h acidolysis or interesterification. Lipozyme RM IM was more stable in interesterification (80% and 65% activity with ethyl caprylate or ethyl caprate) than in acidolysis (first-order decay) after 10 reuses.

Replacing Synthetic Ingredients by Sustainable Natural Alternatives: A Case Study Using Topical O/W Emulsions

With the increasing debate on sustainability, there is a strong market trend to formulate more sustainable products for topical application. Several studies emphasize the potential applications of natural, organic, or green chemistry-derived ingredients, but comparative studies between conventional ingredients and sustainable alternatives are lacking. This type of study is considered an excellent baseline and time-saving strategy for future studies. In addition, one of the main challenges of replacing ingredients by sustainable alternatives in topical vehicles is to maintain high-quality products. Thus, the main goal of this research study was to create a well-defined strategy supported by specific experimental data for the development of sustainable topical vehicles with high-quality standards. The study was designed to evaluate the effects of replacing conventional ingredients (e.g., hydrocarbons, silicones, and preservatives) by sustainable ones on the physical, chemical, and microbiological features of topical emulsions. Additionally, in vivo assessment studies were performed to evaluate the safety, biological efficacy, and sensorial aspects of the developed formulations. The results obtained showed that the replacement of ingredients by sustainable alternatives has an effective impact on the physicochemical and structural properties of the emulsions, mainly on their rheological behavior. However, using appropriate strategies for ingredient selection and rheological adjustment, it is possible to overcome some barriers created by the use of natural raw materials, thus developing appealing and high-quality sustainable topical vehicles.

Formulation and efficacy evaluation of the safe and efficient moisturizing snow mushroom hand sanitizer

OBJECTIVES

Snow fungus or snow mushroom or white jelly mushroom (Tremella fuciformis), the edible mushroom, was formulated into hand sanitizer in form of moisturizing alcohol-based hand rub (ABHR) gel.

METHODS

The stable base ABHRs were developed. The preferred bases were incorporated with various concentrations of snow mushroom extract. The stable and preferred snow mushroom ABHR was moisturizing and sanitizing efficacies evaluated in 20 human volunteers in comparison with its placebo.

RESULTS

The stable hand sanitizer gel bases containing 66.5% of ethanol and 0.3% of triclosan were developed and incorporated with the extract of snow mushroom polysaccharide. Of which, the preparations containing 10% of snow mushroom and 0.3% of gelling agent gained the highest preferences as assessed in 20 Thai volunteers. The snow mushroom hand sanitizer was proved to be none irritated in the same group of the volunteers as was the placebo. The snow mushroom gel significantly (P < .05) moist the skin better than the placebo at all time of the interval assessment until the end of the study at 180 minutes. The hand sanitizers were confirmed on their anti-septic, at which the efficacies of the active and placebo ABHR were comparable (P = .90).

CONCLUSIONS

Snow mushroom ABHR gel with its confirmed moisturizing and sanitizing efficacies is presented. It is meetings with the recommendation on hand hygienic improvement to combat the infections of diseases spreading. The preparation can be frequency applied with its proved skin hydrating efficacy co-contributes in a good condition of hand hygiene.

Recent advances in polyhydroxyalkanoate production: Feedstocks, strains and process developments

Polyhydroxyalkanoates (PHAs) have been actively studied in academia and industry for their properties comparable to petroleum-derived plastics and high biocompatibility. However, the major limitation for commercialization is their high cost. Feedstock costs, especially carbon costs, account for the majority of the final cost. Finding cheap feedstocks for PHA production and associated process development are critical for a cost-effective PHA production. In this study, waste materials from different sources, particularly lignocellulosic biomass, were proposed as suitable feedstocks for PHA production. Strains involved in the conversion of these feedstocks into PHA were reviewed. Newly isolated strains were emphasized. Related process development, including the factors that affect PHA production, fermentation modes and downstream processing, was elaborated upon.

Biorefinery of spent coffee grounds waste: Viable pathway towards circular bioeconomy

The circular bioeconomy plan is an innovative research based scheme intended for augmenting the complete utilization and management of bio-based resources in a sustainable biorefinery route. Spent coffee grounds based biorefinery is the emerging aspect promoting circular bioeconomy. The sustainable circular bioeconomy by utilizing SCG is achieved by cascade approaches and the inclusion of many biorefinery approaches to obtain many bio-products. The maximum energy recovery can be obtained by process integration. The economic analysis of the biofuel production from SCG is dependent on the cost of raw material, transportation, the need of labor and energy, oil extraction operations and biofuel production. The inclusion of new products from already established product can minimize the investment cost when related to the production cost. A positive net present value can be achieved via SCG biorefinery which indicates the profitability of the process.

Modulation of gut microbiota by spent coffee grounds attenuates diet-induced metabolic syndrome in rats

Coffee brewing produces spent coffee grounds as waste; few studies have investigated the health benefits of these grounds. This study investigated responses to spent coffee grounds in a diet-induced rat model of metabolic syndrome. Male Wistar rats aged 8-9 weeks were fed either corn starch-rich diet or high-carbohydrate, high-fat diet for 16 weeks, which were supplemented with 5% spent coffee grounds during the last 8 weeks. Rats fed non-supplemented diets were used as controls. High-carbohydrate, high-fat diet-fed rats developed metabolic syndrome including abdominal obesity, impaired glucose tolerance, dyslipidemia, and cardiovascular and liver damage. Body weight, abdominal fat, total body fat mass, systolic blood pressure, and concentrations of plasma triglycerides and non-esterified fatty acids were reduced by spent coffee grounds along with improved glucose tolerance and structure and function of heart and liver. Spent coffee grounds increased the diversity of the gut microbiota and decreased the ratio of Firmicutes to Bacteroidetes. Changes in gut microbiota correlated with the reduction in obesity and improvement in glucose tolerance and systolic blood pressure. These findings indicate that intervention with spent coffee grounds may be useful for managing obesity and metabolic syndrome by altering the gut microbiota, thus increasing the value of this food waste.

Monfortinho Thermal Water-Based Creams: Effects on Skin Hydration, Psoriasis, and Eczema in Adults

The use of mineral water for therapeutic purposes has varied from century to century and from country to country. Its effectiveness depends on the individual experiences of the population and their cultural traditions. Usually, the waters recommended for dermatological treatment are hot springs that contain sulfur or more recently, silicon. The mechanisms by which mineral waters actuate in dermatological disorders are still not clear but it is believed that they involve thermal, mechanical, chemical, immunologic, and anti-oxidant reactions and enzymatic activity. The aim of this study is to characterize the thermal waters of Monfortinho, one of the oldest Portuguese spas, their potential use for the preparation of dermatological formulations (creams), and their effectiveness on the treatment of skin disorders (psoriasis and eczema). To accomplish this, cream formulations with different contents of thermal water were developed. The formulations were characterized in terms of thermal water analysis and physicochemical properties and their effects were studied by skin biometrics in adults (mean age of 54.3 years old) through skin hydration evaluation and evaluated in clinical studies on 22 patients with psoriasis and eczema. The results showed that all the formulations improved the skin hydration and have beneficial effects in relieving the symptoms of psoriasis and other disorders, but no significant differences were observed when thermal water was used (compared to laboratory ultra-pure water).

Analysis of the Application Potential of Coffee Oil as an Ilmenite Flotation Collector

Coffee grounds are the most significant production waste in the coffee industry and contain about 15% coffee oil. Coffee oil is rich in fatty acids and polyphenols, which have great application potential in the flotation of oxidized minerals. In this study, coffee oil as a green flotation collector for ilmenite was investigated by micro-flotation, zeta potential measurement, and foam stability analysis. The results of zeta potential reveal that both coffee oil and MOH can be adsorbed on the ilmenite surface at pH 6.7, and the chemical adsorption mode is dominant. However, when the pH is 2.8, the adsorption capacity of coffee oil on the ilmenite surface is much larger than that of MOH. The pH value of the pulp has little effect on the foam properties in the coffee oil solution and has a great influence on the foaming performance and foam stability of the MOH solution. When coffee oil is used as a collector, the grade of TiO2 in ilmenite concentrate is increased from 21.68% to 46.83%, and the recovery is 90.22%, indicating that the potential of coffee oil in the application of ilmenite flotation is large.

Green and Sustainable Separation of Natural Products from Agro-Industrial Waste: Challenges, Potentialities, and Perspectives on Emerging Approaches

New generations of biorefinery combine innovative biomass waste resources from different origins, chemical extraction and/or synthesis of biomaterials, biofuels, and bioenergy via green and sustainable processes. From the very beginning, identifying and evaluating all potentially high value-added chemicals that could be removed from available renewable feedstocks requires robust, efficient, selective, reproducible, and benign analytical approaches. With this in mind, green and sustainable separation of natural products from agro-industrial waste is clearly attractive considering both socio-environmental and economic aspects. In this paper, the concepts of green and sustainable separation of natural products will be discussed, highlighting the main studies conducted on this topic over the last 10 years. The principal analytical techniques (such as solvent, microwave, ultrasound, and supercritical treatments), by-products (e.g., citrus, coffee, corn, and sugarcane waste) and target compounds (polyphenols, proteins, essential oils, etc.) will be presented, including the emerging green and sustainable separation approaches towards bioeconomy and circular economy contexts.

New Oils for Cosmetic O/W Emulsions: In Vitro/In Vivo Evaluation

The aim of this study was to design new cosmetic formulations containing oils from catolé, licuri and spent coffee grounds, and to evaluate their immediate and long-term effects on skin barrier function and skin hydration. Nonionic oil-in-water (o/w) emulsions were prepared and physicochemically characterized. The effects of the formulations were assessed by volunteers and by measuring the water content of the epidermis (WCE) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) both two hours and 20 days after daily application. The irritation potential was evaluated using three different methods: the Hen’s egg chorioallantoic membrane test (HET-CAM); the observation of undesirable effects after skin formulation application, and by using the L*a*b* system to verify changes in skin coloring. The results obtained showed that the formulations containing 10% of these oils presented promising characteristics in the improvement of hydration and skin barrier function when compared to the baseline values and with the placebo cream. According to the sensory evaluation performed, all creams were found to have great acceptability.

Bio-refinery approach for spent coffee grounds valorization

Although normally seen as a problem, current policies and strategic plans concur that if adequately managed, waste can be a source of the most interesting and valuable products, among which metals, oils and fats, lignin, cellulose and hemicelluloses, tannins, antioxidants, caffeine, polyphenols, pigments, flavonoids, through recycling, compound recovery or energy valorization, following the waste hierarchy. Besides contributing to more sustainable and circular economies, those products also have high commercial value when compared to the ones obtained by currently used waste treatment methods. In this paper, it is shown how the bio-refinery framework can be used to obtain high value products from organic waste. With spent coffee grounds as a case study, a sequential process is used to obtain first the most valuable, and then other products, allowing proper valorization of residues and increased sustainability of the whole process. Challenges facing full development and implementation of waste based bio-refineries are highlighted.

Crude ethanolic extract from spent coffee grounds: Volatile and functional properties

Espresso capsule consumption and spent coffee ground (SCG) generation have increased, and the present study was undertaken to evaluate the volatile profile (VP), the antioxidant activity (AA) and the sun protection factor (SPF) of the Crude ethanolic extract obtained from the SCG in capsules. The extract yield was superior to the ether yield because a higher unsaponifiable matter (U.M.) amount was recovered by ethanol. The obtained VP (70 compounds) was typical of roasted coffee oil. Furthermore, chemometric analysis using principal components (PCA) discriminated the extracts and grouped the replicates for each sample, which showed the repeatability of the extraction process. The AA ranged from 18.4 to 23.6 (mg extract mg DPPH^-1) and the SPF from 2.27 to 2.76. The combination of the coffee VP, AA and SPF gave the espresso SCG's crude ethanolicextract, desirable properties that can be used in cosmetic and food industries.

Melatonin-based pickering emulsion for skin's photoprotection

CONTEXT

Based on its antioxidant activity, melatonin was recently found to have a protection effect against photocarcinogenesis.

OBJECTIVE

This work aimed to develop an innovative sunscreen formulation based on the Pickering emulsions concept, stabilized by physical UV filters, modified starch and natural oils associated to melatonin as a key strategy for prevention against UV-induced skin damage.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

For this purpose, melatonin was incorporated in Pickering emulsions that were characterized using physicochemical, in vitro and in vivo testing. Physicochemical studies included physical and chemical stability by a thorough pharmaceutical control. The possible protective effects of melatonin against UV-induced cell damage in HaCaT cell lines were investigated in vitro. The safety assessment and the in vivo biological properties of the final formulations, including Human Repeat Insult Patch Test and sunscreen water resistance tests were also evaluated.

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

These studies demonstrated that melatonin sunscreen Pickering emulsion was beneficial and presented a powerful protection against UVB-induced damage in HaCat cells, including inhibition of apoptosis. The inclusion of zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, green coffee oil and starch ensured a high SPF (50+) against UVA and UVB.

CONCLUSION

The combination of melatonin, multifunctional solid particles and green coffee oil, contributed to achieve a stable, effective and innovative sunscreen with a meaningful synergistic protection against oxidative stress.

Integrated approach in the assessment of skin compatibility of cosmetic formulations with green coffee oil

OBJECTIVE

Green coffee oil (GCO) has been used in cosmetic formulations due to its emollient and anti-ageing properties. However, there are insufficient studies about its safety when applied in cosmetic formulations.

METHODS

Cytotoxicity of GCO and of formulations containing 2.5-15% of GCO was evaluated by the MTT reduction assay, in human keratinocytes. Formulations containing 15% of GCO and the vehicle were applied under in use conditions in the volar forearm of human volunteers during 3 days. Transepidermal water loss, stratum corneum water content and erythema index were evaluated each 24 h using biophysical techniques. The same formulations were probed for skin tolerance through a patch test.

RESULTS

Neither pure GCO nor its formulations showed cytotoxic effects in concentrations up to 100 μg mL(-1) . Transepidermal water loss values showed a slight reduction when the formulation containing GCO was applied. Stratum corneum water content and erythema index did not show significant differences, as the results observed in the first day of the study were maintained throughout 3 days. None of the volunteers display any reaction after using an occlusive patch.

CONCLUSION

The results obtained in the study indicate that GCO seems to be safe for topical applications and showed good skin compatibility under the experimental conditions of the study.

Sustainability, natural and organic cosmetics: consumer, products, efficacy, toxicological and regulatory considerations

The interest in sustainable products has increased along the years, since the choice of products, packaging and production processes have a great impact on the environment. These products are classified by regulatory agencies in different categories, aggregating advantages to the product and increasing the demand by consumers. However, there is no harmonization in guidelines of these certifying agencies and each cosmetic industry formulates their product and packaging in a more rational way, which causes less damage to the environment. Many cosmetic products have in their formulation natural products that perform a specific biological function, but these products should be evaluated on efficacy and toxicological aspects. The aim of this article is to approach sustainability, natural and organic cosmetics, considering the consumer and the efficacy, toxicological and regulatory aspects.

Biotechnological conversion of spent coffee grounds into polyhydroxyalkanoates and carotenoids

Coffee is one of the world's most popular beverages and has been growing steadily in commercial importance. Nowadays, coffee is the second largest traded commodity in the world, after petroleum. Hence, coffee industry is responsible for the generation of large amounts of waste, especially spent coffee grounds (SCG). Various attempts to valorize this waste stream of coffee industry were made. This article summarizes our research and publications aiming at the conversion of SCG into valuable products - polyhydroxyalkanoates (PHAs) and carotenoids. At first, oil extracted from SCG (approx. 15 wt% oil in SCG) can be efficiently (YP/S=0.82 g/g) converted into PHA employing Cupriavidus necator H16. Further, the solid residues after oil extraction can be hydrolyzed (by the combination of chemical and enzymatic hydrolysis) yielding fermentable sugars, which can be further used as a substrate for the production of PHAs employing Bacillus megaterium (YP/S=0.04 g/g) or Burkholderia cepacia (YP/S=0.24 g/g). Alternatively, SCG hydrolysate can be used as a substrate for biotechnological production of carotenoids by carotenogenic yeast Sporobolomyces roseus. Solid residues after either oil extraction or hydrolysis can be used as fuel in industrial boilers to generate heat and energy. Therefore, entire biomass of SCG can be used for sustainable production of PHAs and/or carotenoids employing bio-refinery approach.