Saponins as Natural Raw Materials for Increasing the Safety of Bodywash Cosmetic Use

Enhancement of oleanolic acid concentration through acid hydrolysis of saponin-rich extracts from Chenopodium berlandieri

The study investigated Chenopodium berlandieri to analyze its oleanolic acid (OA) content. Response surface methodology with central composite design was used to improve saponin extraction, varying temperature, ethanol, and sample-to-solvent ratio. Best conditions (65 °C, 50% ethanol, 1:10 ratio) yielded 53.45 ± 0.63 mg/g of extract from Huauzontle seeds. Temperature linearly impacted extract yield, while temperature and ethanol influenced total saponin content. Hydrolyzing saponin-rich extracts produced OA-rich extracts. Characterization via HPLC-ELSD and LC-MS identified OA4 as the most concentrated OA saponin (5.54 ± 0.16 mg/g). OA alone reached 2.02 ± 0.12 mg/g. Acid hydrolysis increased OA content by up to 3.27×, highlighting the potential of hydrolyzed Huauzontle extracts as a natural ingredient for various industries due to enhanced OA content.

Thermodynamic Consideration of the Solid Saponin Extract Drop-Air System

The aim of this research was to elucidate the surface active properties of Saponaria officinalis (soapwort) extract containing the plant surfactants saponins. To this end, the advancing contact angle (θ) of water, formamide and diiodomethane on the glass, as well as θ of the aqueous solution of S. officinalis extract fractions on PTFE, PMMA and glass, were studied. Based on the obtained results, the wetting behaviour of saponins was considered with regard to the surface tension components and parameters of the solutions and solids. The investigations also involved the description of the θ isotherms, the dependences between the cosine of contact angle and/or the adhesion of the solution to the solid surfaces and solution surface tension, as well as the critical surface tension of PTFE, PMMA and glass wetting. These dependences were studied based on the saponin adsorption at the different interfaces, which was deduced from the dependence between the adhesion and surface tension of the solution, as well as using the Gibbs and Frumkin isotherm equations. This proved that the saponins are poor wetting agents and that the contact angle isotherm can be described by the exponential function of the second order as well as the Szyszkowski equation, but only for PTFE.

Medicinal Plants of the Flora of Kazakhstan Used in the Treatment of Skin Diseases

The skin shows the physiological condition of the body's organs and systems that prevent infections and physical damage. Throughout the ages, in folk medicine, phytotherapy was considered a primary form of treatment in all countries, including Kazakhstan, due to the abundance and availability of plant-based remedies. This paper discusses several medicinal plants that are traditionally used in the treatment of skin diseases in the Republic of Kazakhstan. The chemical composition of these plants was analyzed, with a particular focus on the biologically active basic compounds responsible for their therapeutic efficiency in treating skin ailments.

Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra L.)-Derived Phytochemicals Target Multiple Signaling Pathways to Confer Oncopreventive and Oncotherapeutic Effects

Cancer is a highly lethal disease, and its incidence has rapidly increased worldwide over the past few decades. Although chemotherapeutics and surgery are widely used in clinical settings, they are often insufficient to provide the cure for cancer patients. Hence, more effective treatment options are highly needed. Although licorice has been used as a medicinal herb since ancient times, the knowledge about molecular mechanisms behind its diverse bioactivities is still rather new. In this review article, different anticancer properties (antiproliferative, antiangiogenic, antimetastatic, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory effects) of various bioactive constituents of licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra L.) are thoroughly described. Multiple licorice constituents have been shown to bind to and inhibit the activities of various cellular targets, including B-cell lymphoma 2, cyclin-dependent kinase 2, phosphatidylinositol 3-kinase, c-Jun N-terminal kinases, mammalian target of rapamycin, nuclear factor-κB, signal transducer and activator of transcription 3, vascular endothelial growth factor, and matrix metalloproteinase-3, resulting in reduced carcinogenesis in several in vitro and in vivo models with no evident toxicity. Emerging evidence is bringing forth licorice as an anticancer agent as well as bottlenecks in its potential clinical application. It is expected that overcoming toxicity-related obstacles by using novel nanotechnological methods might importantly facilitate the use of anticancer properties of licorice-derived phytochemicals in the future. Therefore, anticancer studies with licorice components must be continued. Overall, licorice could be a natural alternative to the present medication for eradicating new emergent illnesses while having just minor side effects.

Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra, G. uralensis, and G. inflata) and Their Constituents as Active Cosmeceutical Ingredients

The interest in plant extracts and natural compounds in cosmetic formulations is growing. Natural products may significantly improve cosmetics performance since they have both cosmetic and therapeutic-like properties, known as cosmeceutical effects. Glycyrrhiza genus, belonging to the Leguminosae family, comprises more than 30 species, widely distributed worldwide. The rhizomes and roots are the most important medicinal parts currently used in pharmaceutical industries and in the production of functional foods and food supplements. In the last few years, the interest in their potential activities in cosmetic formulations has greatly increased. Glycyrrhiza spp. extracts are widely implemented in cosmetic products for their good whitening effect. The biological effects of Glycyrrhiza extracts are especially ascribable to the occurrence of specialized metabolites belonging to the flavonoid class. This review focuses on the botany and the chemistry of the main investigated Glycyrrhiza spp. (G. glabra, G. uralensis, and G. inflata) along with their cosmeceutical activities categorized as skin anti-aging, photoprotective, hair care, and anti-acne. It has been highlighted how, along with Glycyrrhiza extracts, three main flavonoids namely licochalcone A, glabridin, and dehydroglyasperin C are the most investigated compounds. It is noteworthy that other molecules from licorice show potential cosmeceutical effects. These data suggest further investigations to clarify their potential value for cosmetic industries.

Plant-Derived Saponins: A Review of Their Surfactant Properties and Applications

In response to increasing natural surfactant demand and environmental concerns, natural plant-based surfactants have been replacing synthetic ones. Saponins belong to a class of plant metabolites with surfactant properties that are widely distributed in nature. They are eco-friendly because of their natural origin and biodegradable. To date, many plant-based saponins have been investigated for their surface activity. An overview of saponins with a particular focus on their surface-active properties is presented in this article. For this purpose, works published in the past few decades, which report better surfactant relevant properties of saponins than synthetic ones, were extensively studied. The investigations on the potential surfactant application of saponins are also documented. Moreover, some biological activities of saponins such as antimicrobial activity, antidiabetic activity, adjuvant potentials, anticancer activity, and others are reported. Plants rich in saponins are widely distributed in nature, offering great potential for the replacement of toxic synthetic surfactants in a variety of modern commercial products and these saponins exhibit excellent surface and biological activities. New opportunities and challenges associated with the development of saponin-based commercial formulations in the future are also discussed in detail.

Evaluation of the Quality of Bath Cosmetics in Powder Form Depending on the Selection of Fillers

The aim of the study was to evaluate the effects of hydrophilic microcrystalline cellulose, hydrophobic talc and mixtures of cellulose and talc when used as fillers in powdered bath cosmetics. A number of model formulations were developed that contained fillers in different compositions. Prototypical formulations were prepared and evaluated for their functional properties and skin-drying effect. An increase in the concentration of talc was found to reduce the ability of the formulations to emulsify fatty soils and, consequently, decrease the skin-drying effect after washing. Another result of the study is that a high content of talc does not significantly impair the foaming ability, and the presence of talc improves the stability of generated foam.

Comprehensive Phytochemical Characterization of Herbal Parts from Kidney Vetch (Anthyllis vulneraria L.) by LC/MSn and GC/MS

Extracts of kidney vetch (Anthyllis vulneraria L.) are becoming increasingly interesting as ingredients for the health and cosmetics industry. However, comprehensive phytochemical investigations of this plant are scant in the literature. Thus, the aim of the present work was an in-depth characterization of semi-polar constituents from A. vulneraria. To capture a broad spectrum of compounds, the aerial parts of A. vulneraria were extracted with EtOH/water and the resulting crude extracts fractionated by partition between AcOEt and BuOH. Secondary plant metabolites were analyzed by HPLC-ESI-MSⁿ and GC/MS. In a fraction obtained from the BuOH extract via Amberlite® XAD-7 purification glycosides of kaempferol, quercetin, isorhamnetin and rhamnocitrin were detected by LC/MSⁿ , besides flavonoids acylated with meglutol (3-hydroxy-3-methylglutaric acid), acetic and ferulic acids. Moreover, aglycons were analyzed in extracts after 1 N HCl hydrolysis and derivatization with BSTFA. GC/MS analysis of the hydrolysates revealed the incidence of compounds like meglutol, OH/OMe-substituted benzoic acids, ferulic and fatty acids, flavonoids, sugars and the triterpenoid medicagenic acid. Furthermore, a hemolytic activity was detected in the AcOEt extract using a blood-agar assay, and this was ascribed to the occurrence of saponins. In a saponin fraction, obtained from the AcOEt extract by chromatographic purification, two main saponins were characterized by LC/MSⁿ and HR-ESI-MSⁿ . A pure sapogenin could be isolated via VLC and CC purification upon acid hydrolysis of the saponins and assigned to saikogenin D by NMR analysis.

Moringa oleifera L. Extracts as Bioactive Ingredients That Increase Safety of Body Wash Cosmetics

The work attempts to obtain a multifunctional plant extract derived from Moringa tree leaves. Obtained results indicate a strong antioxidant potential of the tested extracts. It was shown that Moringa oleifera leaf extract is a rich source of flavonoid and phenolic compounds. Furthermore, it shows a strong antioxidant activity by scavenging free radicals. In vitro toxicity studies showed that the tested extracts in concentrations up to 5% showed a positive effect on cell proliferation and metabolism and may contribute to the reduction of oxidative stress in cells. It was noted that the tested model formulation of cosmetic (1% SCS) with the addition of different types of extracts might contribute to the reduction of skin irritation and improve the safety of the product.

Amphiphilic cationic polymers as effective substances improving the safety of use of body wash gels

Cationic surfactants have a wide range of applications in the cosmetic industry. The present study is an attempt to determine the effect of an amphiphilic cationic polymer - a cationic derivative of guar gum - on the safety of use of body wash cosmetics. Model body wash gels based on an anionic surfactant, containing 0.05, 0.25 and 0.5% of the studied compound, were subjected to analyses in order to evaluate their skin irritation effect and the ability to solubilize model sebum. Cell culture studies were also carried out. In addition, the effect of the cationized guar gum derivative on the key quality parameters of body wash cosmetics (viscosity and foaming properties) was assessed. The analyses showed that the addition of the cationic guar gum derivative induced a significant increase in the safety of use of the model body wash gels without causing any impairment of the functional properties of the product.

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate vs. Sodium Coco Sulfate. Study of the Safety of Use Anionic Surfactants with Respect to Their Interaction with the Skin

As a result of growing awareness, consumers are increasingly interested in products that are safe on the skin and environmentally-friendly. This is one of the most important reasons for the very rapid development of the natural cosmetics segment which has been observed for several years now. Among the most commonly used anionic surfactants of natural origin are sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium coco sulfate (SCS). As there are no unambiguous reports on the safety of using SCS, in this study an attempt was made to evaluate the effect of SCS on the skin. The results of the determination of the skin irritation potential (zein value) indicate that the analyzed parameter is approximately 15 % lower in SCS than in SLS. SCS has a stronger ability to interact with epidermal lipids and cause their elution from the skin, which in turn may damage the protective epidermal barrier. The results obtained during the evaluation of the effect produced by the analyzed substances on the metabolism of human keratinocytes (HaCaT) show that after 4 h of incubation with the studied groups of compounds there was a significant decrease in cell proliferation. The highest decrease in cell metabolism was demonstrated for SLS.