A standardized protocol for assessing regulators of pigmentation

Mechanistic Insights into the Multiple Functions of Niacinamide: Therapeutic Implications and Cosmeceutical Applications in Functional Skincare Products

Niacinamide (or nicotinamide) is a small-molecule hydrosoluble vitamin with essential metabolic functions in mammalian cells. Niacinamide has become a key functional ingredient in diverse skincare products and cosmetics. This vitamin plays a pivotal role in NAD+ synthesis, notably contributing to redox reactions and energy production in cutaneous cells. Via diversified biochemical mechanisms, niacinamide is also known to influence human DNA repair and cellular stress responses. Based on decades of safe use in cosmetics, niacinamide recently gained widespread popularity as an active ingredient which aligns with the "Kligman standards" in skincare. From a therapeutic standpoint, the intrinsic properties of niacinamide may be applied to managing acne vulgaris, melasma, and psoriasis. From a cosmeceutical standpoint, niacinamide has been widely leveraged as a multipurpose antiaging ingredient. Therein, it was shown to significantly reduce cutaneous oxidative stress, inflammation, and pigmentation. Overall, through multimodal mechanisms, niacinamide may be considered to partially prevent and/or reverse several biophysical changes associated with skin aging. The present narrative review provides multifactorial insights into the mechanisms of niacinamide's therapeutic and cosmeceutical functions. The ingredient's evolving role in skincare was critically appraised, with a strong focus on the biochemical mechanisms at play. Finally, novel indications and potential applications of niacinamide in dermal fillers and alternative injectable formulations were prospectively explored.

A Mixture of Topical Forms of Polydeoxyribonucleotide, Vitamin C, and Niacinamide Attenuated Skin Pigmentation and Increased Skin Elasticity by Modulating Nuclear Factor Erythroid 2-like 2

It is well-known that increased oxidative stress caused by ultraviolet B (UV-B) radiation induces melanogenesis and activates metalloproteinases (MMPs), which degrade collagen and elastin fibers, leading to decreased skin elasticity. Various antioxidant agents, such as vitamin C and niacinamide, have been evaluated for use as treatments for photoaging or skin pigmentation. In this study, we evaluated the ability of a topical liquid formula of polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN), vitamin C, and niacinamide (PVN) delivered via a microneedling therapy system (MTS) to attenuate photoaging and pigmentation by increasing nuclear factor erythroid 2-like 2 (NRF2)/heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1) and decreasing MMP expression in a UV-B-radiated animal model. The effects of the PVN were compared with those of individual PDRN and hydroquinone (HQ) compounds. The expression of NRF2/HO-1 significantly increased in response to HQ, PDRN, and PVN in UV-B-radiated animal skin. The activity of nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate hydrogen oxidase decreased in response to HQ, PDRN, and PVN, and the superoxide dismutase activity increased. The expression of tumor protein p53 and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor and tyrosinase activity decreased in response to HQ, PDRN, and PVN, and this decrease was accompanied by decreased melanin content in the skin. The expression of nuclear factor kappa-light-chain enhancer of activated B cells and MMP2/3/9 decreased in response to HQ, PDRN, and PVN in UV-B-radiated skin. However, the expression of collagen type I α1 chain and the amount of collagen fibers that were evaluated by Masson's trichrome staining increased in response to HQ, PDRN, and PVN. The contents of elastin fibers, fibrillin 1/2 and fibulin 5 increased in response to HQ, PDRN, and PVN. In conclusion, PVN delivered via MTS led to decreased melanogenesis and destruction of collagen and elastin fibers by MMPs, and, thus, PVN decreased skin pigmentation and increased skin elasticity.

Mechanistic Basis and Clinical Evidence for the Applications of Nicotinamide (Niacinamide) to Control Skin Aging and Pigmentation

Vitamin B3 (nicotinic acid, niacin) deficiency causes the systemic disease pellagra, which leads to dermatitis, diarrhea, dementia, and possibly death depending on its severity and duration. Vitamin B3 is used in the synthesis of the NAD+ family of coenzymes, contributing to cellular energy metabolism and defense systems. Although nicotinamide (niacinamide) is primarily used as a nutritional supplement for vitamin B3, its pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical uses have been extensively explored. In this review, we discuss the biological activities and cosmeceutical properties of nicotinamide in consideration of its metabolic pathways. Supplementation of nicotinamide restores cellular NAD+ pool and mitochondrial energetics, attenuates oxidative stress and inflammatory response, enhances extracellular matrix and skin barrier, and inhibits the pigmentation process in the skin. Topical treatment of nicotinamide, alone or in combination with other active ingredients, reduces the progression of skin aging and hyperpigmentation in clinical trials. Topically applied nicotinamide is well tolerated by the skin. Currently, there is no convincing evidence that nicotinamide has specific molecular targets for controlling skin aging and pigmentation. This substance is presumed to contribute to maintaining skin homeostasis by regulating the redox status of cells along with various metabolites produced from it. Thus, it is suggested that nicotinamide will be useful as a cosmeceutical ingredient to attenuate skin aging and hyperpigmentation, especially in the elderly or patients with reduced NAD+ pool in the skin due to internal or external stressors.

Natural skin-whitening compounds for the treatment of melanogenesis (Review)

Melanogenesis is the process for the production of melanin, which is the primary cause of human skin pigmentation. Skin-whitening agents are commercially available for those who wish to have a lighter skin complexions. To date, although numerous natural compounds have been proposed to alleviate hyperpigmentation, insufficient attention has been focused on potential natural skin-whitening agents and their mechanism of action from the perspective of compound classification. In the present article, the synthetic process of melanogenesis and associated core signaling pathways are summarized. An overview of the list of natural skin-lightening agents, along with their compound classifications, is also presented, where their efficacy based on their respective mechanisms of action on melanogenesis is discussed.

Prenylated Flavonoids as Antioxidant and Melanin Inhibitors From Stingless Bee (Wallacetrigona incisa) Propolis

Propolis from 4 stingless bees ( Homotrigona apicalis, Wallacetrigona incisa, Tetragonula fuscobalteata, and Tetragonula fuscibasis) was investigated in the search for medicinal and cosmetic materials from tropical rainforest resources. Methanol extracts of the propolis were screened using antioxidant and antimelanogenesis assays (tyrosinase enzyme activity and melanin inhibitor in B16 melanoma). The extract of H. apicalis showed the strongest antioxidant activity, both in the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl and 2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) assays, with half-maximal inhibitory concentration values of 0.72 ± 0.01 (mg/mL) and 0.26 ± 0.00 (mg/mL), respectively. The H. apicalis extract also displayed the strongest inhibition of tyrosinase (53% at 100 µg/mL). In the B16 melanoma cell assay, the W. incisa extract showed the strongest inhibition of melanin (21%) and was less cytotoxic. The W. incisa extract was fractioned to isolate the compounds with biological activities. Two prenylated flavonoids were obtained, named broussoflavonol F and glyasperin A. Both showed potent antioxidant activities, as well as inhibiting melanin in B16 melanoma, but not tyrosinase activity. These results indicated the potential of methanol extract of W. incisa to be developed for cosmetic material, but further experiments are needed to verify the function.

The TYRP1-mediated protection of human tyrosinase activity does not involve stable interactions of tyrosinase domains

Tyrosinases are melanocyte-specific enzymes involved in melanin biosynthesis. Mutations in their genes cause oculocutaneous albinism associated with reduced or altered pigmentation of skin, hair, and eyes. Here, the recombinant human intra-melanosomal domains of tyrosinase, TYRtr (19-469), and tyrosinase-related protein 1, TYRP1tr (25-472), were studied in vitro to define their functional relationship. Proteins were expressed or coexpressed in whole Trichoplusia ni larvae and purified. Their associations were studied using gel filtration and sedimentation equilibrium methods. Protection of TYRtr was studied by measuring the kinetics of tyrosinase diphenol oxidase activity in the presence (1:1 and 1:20 molar ratios) or the absence of TYRP1tr for 10 hr under conditions mimicking melanosomal and ER pH values. Our data indicate that TYRtr incubation with excess TYRP1tr protects TYR, increasing its stability over time. However, this mechanism does not appear to involve the formation of stable hetero-oligomeric complexes to maintain the protective function.

Downregulation of α-Melanocyte-Stimulating Hormone-Induced Activation of the Pax3-MITF-Tyrosinase Axis by Sorghum Ethanolic Extract in B16F10 Melanoma Cells

Ultraviolet irradiation-induced hyperpigmentation of the skin is associated with excessive melanin production in melanocytes. Tyrosinase (TYR) is a key enzyme catalyzing the rate-limiting step in melanogenesis. TYR expression is controlled by microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) expression. Sorghum is a cereal crop widely used in a variety of foods worldwide. Sorghum contains many bioactive compounds and is beneficial to human health. However, the effects of sorghum in anti-melanogenesis have not been well characterized. In this study, the biological activity of sorghum ethanolic extract (SEE) on α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced TYR expression was evaluated in B16F10 melanoma cells. SEE attenuated α-MSH-induced TYR gene promoter activity through the downregulation of the transcription factor MITF. We found that paired box gene 3 (Pax3) contributes to the maximal induction of MITF gene promoter activity. Further analysis demonstrated that SEE inhibited α-MSH-induced Pax3 expression. The collective results indicate that SEE attenuates α-MSH-induced TYR expression through the suppression of Pax3-mediated MITF gene promoter activity. Targeting the Pax3-MITF axis pathway could be considered a potential strategy to increase the efficacy of anti-melanogenesis.

Development and validation of a simple method for the extraction of human skin melanocytes

Primary melanocytes in culture are useful models for studying epidermal pigmentation and efficacy of melanogenic compounds, or developing advanced therapy medicinal products. Cell extraction is an inevitable and critical step in the establishment of cell cultures. Many enzymatic methods for extracting and growing cells derived from human skin, such as melanocytes, are described in literature. They are usually based on two enzymatic steps, Trypsin in combination with Dispase, in order to separate dermis from epidermis and subsequently to provide a suspension of epidermal cells. The objective of this work was to develop and validate an extraction method of human skin melanocytes being simple, effective and applicable to smaller skin samples, and avoiding animal reagents. TrypLE™ product was tested on very limited size of human skin, equivalent of multiple 3-mm punch biopsies, and was compared to Trypsin/Dispase enzymes. Functionality of extracted cells was evaluated by analysis of viability, morphology and melanin production. In comparison with Trypsin/Dispase incubation method, the main advantages of TrypLE™ incubation method were the easier of separation between dermis and epidermis and the higher population of melanocytes after extraction. Both protocols preserved morphological and biological characteristics of melanocytes. The minimum size of skin sample that allowed the extraction of functional cells was 6 × 3-mm punch biopsies (e.g., 42 mm²) whatever the method used. In conclusion, this new procedure based on TrypLE™ incubation would be suitable for establishment of optimal primary melanocytes cultures for clinical applications and research.

The depigmenting effect of natural resorcinol type polyphenols Kuwanon O and Sanggenon T from the roots of morus australis

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Morus australis, one of the major Morus species growing in East Asia, is rich in phenolic compounds. The extract of M. australis has been used as skin whitening components for a long period. The action mechanisms of its principal constituents are still unclear. This study aims to evaluate the skin lightening effects of phenolic compounds extracted from the root of M. australis in different melanocyte systems and artificial skin models.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The depigmenting effect of resorcinol type polyphenols (RTPs) from the root extract of M. australis was evaluated in murine b16 and melan-a cell lines using a combined sulforhodamine B assay. Tyrosinase activity and the expression of melanogenesis proteins were evaluated for the mechanism study. The artificial skin model is used as a replacement of the animal test.

RESULTS

Only Kuwanon O and Sanggenon T were found to have significant depigmenting effects in both murine b16 and melan-a cell lines. Their depigmenting mechanisms are slightly different in the two cell systems. In b16 cells, Kuwanon O and Sanggenon T, together with the other two RTPs, induced post-transcriptional degradations of MITF without suppressing its mRNA expression, leading to significant decreases of TRP-1 and TRP-2 production. While in melan-a cells, the levels of tyrosinase families were suppressed via MITF downregulation at both transcription and translation level by RTPs, with Kuwanon O inducing the greatest suppression. Further evaluations in artificial skin model demonstrated the outstanding depigmenting effects of Kuwanon O and Sanggenon T.

CONCLUSIONS

Kuwanon O and Sanggenon T from M.australis root extract are two potential skin whitening ingredients. To screen resorcinol flavonone derivatives with an isoprenyl group in the Diels-Alder substituent might be an option for the search of potent hypopigmenting agents from plants.

Dihydromyricetin from Ampelopsis grossedentata inhibits melanogenesis through down-regulation of MAPK, PKA and PKC signaling pathways

The inhibitory effects of dihydromyricetin purified from Ampelopsis grossedentata on melanogenesis and its antioxidant characteristics were investigated. Assays of tyrosinase activities and melanin content in B16F10 mouse melanoma cells were carried out spectrophotometrically, and the expression of melanogenesis-related proteins was determined by Western blotting. The possible signaling pathways involved in dihydromyricetin-mediated depigmentation were also examined using specific protein kinase regulators. The results revealed that dihydromyricetin effectively suppresses intracellular tyrosinase activity and decreases melanin amount in cells. Dihydromyricetin also exhibits antioxidant properties and effectively decreases intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) and reactive species (RS) levels. Our results indicated that dihydromyricetin inhibits melanogenesis through its antioxidant properties and by downregulating protein kinase A (PKA), protein kinase C (PKC), and mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPK) signaling pathways. The present study indicates that dihydromyricetin has the potential to be developed into a depigmentation skin care product.

The expression of KRT2 and its effect on melanogenesis in alpaca skins

In order to investigate the effects of the keratin 2 (KRT2) on alpaca melanocyte in vivo and vitro, the immunohistochemistry (IHC), quantitative real-time PCR (qPCR), Western blot, and alpaca melanocytes transfection methods were used. The results showed that mRNA and protein expression of KRT2 was highly expressed in brown skin in comparison with that in white skin. Moreover, we found that KRT2 was expressed in alpaca melanocytes in vitro by immunocytochemistry. After transfection with KRT2 in alpaca melanocytes, the relative mRNA and protein expression of KRT2, microphthalmia-associtated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase (TYR) and tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TYRP1) in alpaca skin melanocytes was increased with significant differences; a further result was the increase of melanin production. The results suggested that KRT2 functions in alpaca hair color formation, which offered an essential theoretical basis for further exploration of the role of melanogenesis.

Inhibition of melanogenesis by Gaillardia aristata flower extract

BACKGROUND

The purpose of the study was to determine the anti-melanogenic and anti-oxidant properties of Gaillardia aristata flower extract (GAE).

METHODS

Melanogenesis inhibition by GAE was investigated in cultivated cells and in a human skin model. In cultivated cells, the melanogenesis regulatory effect of GAE was evaluated using melanin content, intracellular tyrosinase activity and anti-oxidant characteristics. In addition, the expression of melanogenesis-related proteins was determined by western blot assay and real-time PCR.

RESULTS

GAE reduced the amount of melanin in B16F10 and normal human epidermal melanocyte cells and suppressed intracellular tyrosinase activity in a dose-dependent pattern. Also, GAE significantly decreased the expression of melanogenesis-related proteins (microphthalmia associated transcription factor, tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein-1, and dopachrome tautomerase). Real-time PCR results revealed a down-regulation of the mRNAs of these proteins. GAE possessed anti-oxidant characteristics as free radical-scavenging capacity and reducing power. In the three-dimensional human skin model, GAE applied to hyperpigmented skin significantly increased the degree of skin lightening within 2 weeks of treatment. The safety of GAE on human skin was confirmed.

CONCLUSIONS

These results indicate the potential of GAE for use in suppressing skin pigmentation. We proposed GAE as a new candidate of anti-melanogenic and antioxidant agents that could be used for cosmetic skin care products.

Angiotensin II stimulates melanogenesis via the protein kinase C pathway

Melanogenesis is a physiological process that results in the synthesis of melanin pigments, which serve a crucial function in hyperpigmentation. The aim of the present study was to determine the effects of angiotensin II (Ang II) on melanogenesis and to elucidate the molecular events of Ang II-induced melanogenesis. Experiments were performed on human melanocytes to elucidate the pigmenting effect of Ang II and the underlying mechanisms. The elements involved in melanogenesis, including melanin content, tyrosinase (TYR) activity, and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and TYR expression at the mRNA and protein levels were evaluated. Melanin content and TYR activity increased in response to Ang II treatment in a concentration-dependent manner. MITF and TYR mRNA and protein expression levels were increased significantly in response to Ang II in a concentration-dependent manner. The Ang II-induced increase in melanin synthesis was reduced significantly in response to co-treatment with Ro-32-0432, a protein kinase C (PKC) inhibitor, whereas co-treatment with H-89, a PKA inhibitor, did not attenuate the Ang II-induced increase in melanin levels. These results suggest that PKC is required for Ang II-induced pigmentation in human melanocytes and that the mechanism involves the PKC pathway and MITF upregulation.

Investigation of the Anti-Melanogenic and Antioxidant Characteristics of Eucalyptus camaldulensis Flower Essential Oil and Determination of Its Chemical Composition

The effects of essential oil from Eucalyptus camaldulensis flowers oil on melanogenesis and the oil’s antioxidant characteristics were investigated. Assays of mushroom and cellular tyrosinase activities and melanin content of mouse melanoma cells were performed spectrophotometrically, and the expression of melanogenesis-related proteins was determined by Western blotting. The possible signaling pathways involved in essential oil-mediated depigmentation were also investigated using specific protein kinase inhibitors. The results revealed that E. camaldulensis flower essential oil effectively suppresses intracellular tyrosinase activity and decreases melanin amount in B16F10 mouse melanoma cells. The essential oil also exhibits antioxidant properties and effectively decreases intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels. The volatile chemical composition of the essential oil was analyzed with gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC/MS). The chemical constituents in the essential oil are predominately oxygenated monoterpenes (34.9%), followed by oxygenated sesquiterpenes (31.8%), monoterpene hydrocarbons (29.0%) and sesquiterpene hydrocarbons (4.3%). Our results indicated that E. camaldulensis flower essential oil inhibits melanogenesis through its antioxidant properties and by down-regulating both mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPK) and protein kinase A (PKA) signaling pathways. The present study indicates that the essential oil has the potential to be developed into a skin care product.

Rationale of using hypopigmenting drugs and their clinical application in melasma

Among the pigmentary disorders, melasma is the prototype disorder characterized by hyperpigmentation. Although, conventionally, triple combination creams are used, there is a need for alternatives to hydroquinone as the drug has restrictions on its widespread use. This needs an understanding of the steps involved in the melanogenesis and the drugs that inhibit the key steps. The data on in vitro inhibition need to be then translated into clinical in vivo results, before a rationale compounded fixed drug preparation is marketed that inhibits the major steps in the pigmentation pathway. There is also a need to look for drugs that are superior to hydroquinone, as only then will they have a meaningful clinical utility. For now, a few drugs like deoxyarbutin, ellagic acid, dioic acid, n-butylresorcinol and azelaic acid have such properties in clinical trials, while metformin is a recent addition.

High-throughput, high-content screening for novel pigmentation regulators using a keratinocyte/melanocyte co-culture system

Skin pigmentation is a complex process including melanogenesis within melanocytes and melanin transfer to the keratinocytes. To develop a comprehensive screening method for novel pigmentation regulators, we used immortalized melanocytes and keratinocytes in co-culture to screen large numbers of compounds. High-throughput screening plates were subjected to digital automated microscopy to quantify the pigmentation via brightfield microscopy. Compounds with pigment suppression were secondarily tested for their effects on expression of microphthalmia transcription factor (MITF) and several pigment regulatory genes, and further validated in terms of non-toxicity to keratinocytes/melanocytes and dose-dependent activity. The results demonstrate a high-throughput, high-content screening approach, which is applicable to the analysis of large chemical libraries using a co-culture system. We identified candidate pigmentation inhibitors from 4000 screened compounds including zoxazolamine, 3-methoxycatechol and alpha-mangostin, which were also shown to modulate expression of MITF and several key pigmentation factors and are worthy of further evaluation for potential translation to clinical use.

Establishment of a melanogenesis regulation assay system using a fluorescent protein reporter combined with the promoters for the melanogenesis-related genes in human melanoma cells

There are two established depigmenting agent assays currently in use. However, these methods are unreliable and time-consuming. Therefore, it will be valuable to establish a better assay system for depigmenting agent analysis. In this study, we established a melanogenesis regulation assay system using a fluorescent protein reporter combined with the promoters for the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase (Tyr) and dopachrome tautomerase (Dct) genes in MeWo human melanoma cells. We used several melanogenesis regulators, including theophylline, hesperetin, arbutin and rottlerin, to confirm the function of this assay system. The established MeWo/pMITF-EGFP, MeWo/pTyr-EGFP and MeWo/pDct-EGFP stable cells integrated the pMITF-EGFP, pTyr-EGFP and pDct-EGFP plasmids into their genomic DNA. These stably transfected cells were used to examine alterations in the expression of the MITF, Tyr and Dct genes. All of the tested compounds, including theophylline, hesperetin, arbutin and rottlerin, could be analyzed in the stable cells, producing reliable results. Therefore, we believe that this melanogenesis regulation assay system can be used as a rapid and reliable assay system to analyze the regulation of melanogenesis by many known or unknown compounds.

Inhibitory effects of adlay extract on melanin production and cellular oxygen stress in B16F10 melanoma cells

The aim of this study was to determine the effects of adlay extract on melanin production and the antioxidant characteristics of the extract. The seeds were extracted by the supercritical fluid CO₂ extraction (SFE) method. The effect of adlay extract on melanin production was evaluated using mushroom tyrosinase activity assay, intracellular tyrosinase activity, antioxidant properties and melanin content. Those assays were performed spectrophotometrically. In addition, the expression of melanogenesis-related proteins was determined by western blotting. The results revealed that the adlay extract suppressed intracellular tyrosinase activity and decreased the amount of melanin in B16F10 cells. The adlay extract decreased the expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase, tyrosinase related protein-1 (TRP-1) and tyrosinase related protein-2 (TRP-2). The extract also exhibited antioxidant characteristics such as free radical scavenging capacity and reducing power. It effectively decreased intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels in B16F10 cells. We concluded that the adlay extract inhibits melanin production by down-regulation of MITF, tyrosinase, TRP-1 and TRP-2. The antioxidant properties of the extract may also contribute to the inhibition of melanogenesis. The adlay extract can therefore be applied as an inhibitor of melanogenesis and could also act as a natural antioxidant in skin care products.

Inhibitory effects of Asterina pectinifera extracts on melanin biosynthesis through tyrosinase activity

The control of melanogenesis is an important strategy in the treatment of abnormal skin pigmentation for cosmetic purposes. The aim of the present study was to investigate the anti-melanogenic effect of Asterina pectinifera (A. pectinifera) extracts by cell-free mushroom tyrosinase assay, cellular tyrosinase assay, melanin content assay and the analysis of related protein expression in melan-a cells. A. pectinifera was extracted with 80% methanol (80-MAP) and further fractionated with hexane (He-AP) and ethyl acetate (EA-AP). In addition, the enzyme extract (En-AP) of A. pectinifera, to which protease was added, was processed. EA-AP and En-AP among A. pectinifera extracts showed strong inhibitory activity against the cell-free mushroom tyrosinase activity. EA-AP and En-AP induced significant inhibition of melanin production and cellular tyrosinase activity. In the action of EA-AP and En-AP on melanogenesis, they reduced the expression of melanogenic genes and proteins including tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1) and dopachrome tautomerase (Dct). These results showed that EA-AP and En-AP inhibited melanogenesis by reducing tyrosinase activity and melanin production via subsequent downregulation of tyrosinase-related proteins. The overall results suggest that EA-AP and En-AP among A. pectinifera extracts may be promising candidates for the treatment of hyperpigmentation disorder and useful for self-tanning cosmetic products.

Dual bioactivities of essential oil extracted from the leaves of Artemisia argyi as an antimelanogenic versus antioxidant agent and chemical composition analysis by GC/MS

The study was aimed at investigating the antimelanogenic and antioxidant properties of essential oil when extracted from the leaves of Artemisia argyi, then analyzing the chemical composition of the essential oil. The inhibitory effect of the essential oil on melanogenesis was evaluated by a mushroom tyrosinase activity assay and B16F10 melanoma cell model. The antioxidant capacity of the essential oil was assayed by spectrophotometric analysis, and the volatile chemical composition of the essential oil was analyzed with gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC/MS). The results revealed that the essential oil significantly inhibits mushroom tyrosinase activity (IC₅₀ = 19.16 mg/mL), down-regulates B16F10 intracellular tyrosinase activity and decreases the amount of melanin content in a dose-dependent pattern. Furthermore, the essential oil significantly scavenged 2,2-diphenyl-1-picryl-hydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2′-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzthiazoline- 6-sulphonic acid) ABTS radicals, showed an apparent reduction power as compared with metal-ion chelating activities. The chemicals constituents in the essential oil are ether (23.66%), alcohols (16.72%), sesquiterpenes (15.21%), esters (11.78%), monoterpenes (11.63%), ketones (6.09%), aromatic compounds (5.01%), and account for a 90.10% analysis of its chemical composition. It is predicted that eucalyptol and the other constituents, except for alcohols, in the essential oil may contribute to its antioxidant activities. The results indicated that essential oil extracted from A. argyi leaves decreased melanin production in B16F10 cells and showed potent antioxidant activity. The essential oil can thereby be applied as an inhibitor of melanogenesis and could also act as a natural antioxidant in skin care products.

The Inhibitory Effects of Representative Chalcones Contained in Angelica keiskei on Melanin Biosynthesis in B16 Melanoma Cells

In our effort to find new whitening agents, we evaluated the effects of representative chalcones [4-hydroxyderricin (1), xanthoangelol (2), xanthoangelol H (3), deoxyxanthoangelol H (4), and deoxydihydroxanthoangelol H (5)] contained in the stem of Angelica keiskei on tyrosinase and melanin formation in B16 melanoma cells. In addition, the antioxidant effects of these chalcones in ORAC and DPPH assays were also determined. Interestingly, all chalcones (1–5) inhibit melanin formation in B16 melanoma cells, with low cytotoxicity.

In Vitro Cytotoxic Potential of Essential Oils of Eucalyptus benthamii and Its Related Terpenes on Tumor Cell Lines

Eucalyptus L. is traditionally used for many medicinal purposes. In particular, some Eucalyptus species have currently shown cytotoxic properties. Local Brazilian communities have used leaves of E. benthamii as a herbal remedy for various diseases, including cancer. Considering the lack of available data for supporting this cytotoxic effect, the goal of this paper was to study the in vitro cytotoxic potential of the essential oils from young and adult leaves of E. benthamii and some related terpenes (α-pinene, terpinen-4-ol, and γ-terpinene) on Jurkat, J774A.1 and HeLa cells lines. Regarding the cytotoxic activity based on MTT assay, the essential oils showed improved results than α-pinene and γ-terpinene, particularly for Jurkat and HeLa cell lines. Terpinen-4-ol revealed a cytotoxic effect against Jurkat cells similar to that observed for volatile oils. The results of LDH activity indicated that cytotoxic activity of samples against Jurkat cells probably involved cell death by apoptosis. The decrease of cell DNA content was demonstrated due to inhibition of Jurkat cells proliferation by samples as a result of cytotoxicity. In general, the essential oils from young and adult leaves of E. benthamii presented cytotoxicity against the investigated tumor cell lines which confirms their antitumor potential.

Characterization of the bioactive motif of neuregulin-1, a fibroblast-derived paracrine factor that regulates the constitutive color and the function of melanocytes in human skin

Interactions between melanocytes and neighboring cells in the skin (keratinocytes and fibroblasts) play important roles in regulating human skin color. We recently reported that neuregulin-1 (NRG1) is highly expressed in fibroblasts from Fitzpatrick type VI skin (the darkest) and at least in part determines the constitutive color of human skin. We have now characterized the bioactive motif of NRG1 that is involved in modulating melanin production in human melanocytes. We found that 8-mer motifs (PSRYLCKC and LCKCPNEF) increased melanin production but did not increase the proliferation of melanocytes; the minimum fragment that could elicit that effect was the tetrapeptide LCKC. This smaller bioactive peptide might have an advantage in clinical applications in which it modulates only pigmentation and does not stimulate melanocyte proliferation.

Inhibition of melanogenesis versus antioxidant properties of essential oil extracted from leaves of Vitex negundo Linn and chemical composition analysis by GC-MS

This study was aimed at investigating the antimelanogenic and antioxidative properties of the essential oil extracted from leaves of V. negundo Linn and the analysis of the chemical composition of this essential oil. The efficacy of the essential oil was evaluated spectrophotometrically, whereas the volatile chemical compounds in the essential oil were analyzed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). The results revealed that the essential oil effectively suppresses murine B16F10 tyrosinase activity and decreases the amount of melanin in a dose-dependent manner. Additionally, the essential oil significantly scavenged 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzthiazoline-6-sulphonic acid) (ABTS) radicals, and showed potent reducing power versus metal-ion chelating properties in a dose-dependent pattern. The chemical constituents in the essential oil are sesquiterpenes (44.41%), monoterpenes (19.25%), esters (14.77%), alcohols (8.53%), aromatic compound (5.90%), ketone (4.96%), ethers (0.4%) that together account for 98.22% of its chemical composition. It is predicted that the aromatic compound in the essential oil may contribute to its antioxidant activities. The results indicated that essential oil extracted from V. negundo Linn leaves decreased melanin production in B16F10 melanoma cells and showed potent antioxidant activities. The essential oil can thereby serve as an inhibitor of melanin synthesis and could also act as a natural antioxidant.

Photodynamic therapy-induced killing is enhanced in depigmented metastatic melanoma cells

The resistance of pigmented human melanomas over their unpigmented counterparts to a number of therapies has suggested that the presence of intracellular melanin plays a role in rendering these cells less susceptible to cell death, probably through the ability of this pigment to act as an intracellular antioxidant, thus neutralizing chemotherapeutic-induced ROS (reactive oxygen species). PDT (photodynamic therapy) was recently suggested as an attractive, adjunctive therapy owing to its cellular specificity and limited side effects. In the present study, we propose that first depigmenting melanomas with a reversible TYR (tyrosinase) inhibitor such as PTU (phenylthiourea) increases their susceptibility to HYP-PDT (hypericin-mediated PDT). Pigmented [UCT Mel-1 (University of Cape Town melanoma cell line 1)] and unpigmented (A375) melanomas were first characterized with respect to their TYR activities and melanin quantities and then treated with a TYR inhibitor for 48 h. Cell viability assays after treatment with 3 μM HYP-PDT showed a significant increase in cell death in depigmented melanomas compared with untreated melanomas that returned to the level of untreated melanoma cells on removing the TYR inhibitor. The present study supports the hypothesis that combining the inhibition of melanogenesis with PDT should be explored as a valid therapeutic target for the management of advanced melanoma.

Dysregulation of melanocyte function by Th17-related cytokines: significance of Th17 cell infiltration in autoimmune vitiligo vulgaris

The aim of this study was to determine whether CD4(+) IL-17A(+) Th17 cells infiltrate vitiligo skin and to investigate whether the proinflammatory cytokines related to Th17 cell influence melanocyte enzymatic activity and cell fate. An immunohistochemical analysis showed Th17 cell infiltration in 21 of 23 vitiligo skin samples in addition to CD8(+) cells on the reticular dermis. An in vitro analysis showed that the expression of MITF and downstream genes was downregulated in melanocytes by treatment with interleukin (IL)-17A, IL-1β, IL-6, and tumor necrosis factor (TNF)-α. Treatment with these cytokines also induced morphological shrinking in melanocytes, resulting in decreased melanin production. In terms of local cytokine network in the skin, IL-17A dramatically induced IL-1β, IL-6, and TNF-α production in skin-resident cells such as keratinocytes and fibroblasts. Our results provide evidence of the influence of a complex Th17 cell-related cytokine environment in local depigmentation in addition to CD8(+) cell-mediated melanocyte destruction in autoimmune vitiligo.

Validation of Eupatorium triplinerve Vahl leaves, a skin care herb from East Kalimantan, using a melanin biosynthesis assay

In searching for a new material made from natural resources that could be used as a whitening agent, we focused on the plants used for skin treatment by the native people of East Kalimantan. The methanol extract of the leaves of Eupatorium triplinerve Vahl showed antimelanogenesis activity in a melanin biosynthesis assay. By activity-guided fractionation, 7-methoxycoumarin (1) was isolated as an active compound. The IC50 of 1 on mushroom tyrosinase was 2360 μM (L-tyrosine was used as the substrate) and above 2840 μM (L-DOPA was used as the substrate), respectively. Regarding melanin formation inhibition in B16 melanoma cells, the IC50 of 1 was 1780 μM with 83% cell viability at IC50. Based on these results, we validated that the leaf extract is in line with the traditional use of the Dayak tribe in East Kalimantan.

Depigmentation in melanomas increases the efficacy of hypericin-mediated photodynamic-induced cell death

Melanoma is the main cause of death in skin cancers. Despite combating with early detection, resection and post-operative therapy, melanoma treatment remains unsuccessful and investigations into other forms of adjuvant therapy such as photodynamic therapy (PDT) are prudent. This study proposes that depigmentation i.e. the removal of the free radical scavenging pigment, melanin, in melanotic melanoma cells increases their susceptibility to PDT-induced cell death. Two human melanoma cell lines: one pigmented (Mel-1) and one amelanotic (A(375)) cell lines were used. Kojic acid (KA), a tyrosinase-specific inhibitor, was optimised to 6 μg/ml and shown to quantifiably inhibit melanin synthesis after a 3-day exposure. PDT on these cells resulted in a 3.82 fold increase of intracellular ROS production which correlated to 11% increase in cell death susceptibility compared to untreated controls. Moreover, cells allowed to regain their pigment failed to return to normal even after 72 h thus proving the effectiveness of PDT. Using a DPPH* assay, the results confirmed the scavenging properties of melanin (IC(50) 18.30 μg/ml) proving that this pigment may be one of the reasons for melanoma chemoresistance. Overall this study shows that pigment plays an important role in the efficacy of adjunctive PDT treatment and its removal enhances cell death susceptibility in melanomas.

UV-B radiation induces macrophage migration inhibitory factor-mediated melanogenesis through activation of protease-activated receptor-2 and stem cell factor in keratinocytes

UV radiation indirectly regulates melanogenesis in melanocytes through a paracrine regulatory mechanism involving keratinocytes. Protease-activated receptor (PAR)-2 activation induces melanosome transfer by increasing phagocytosis of melanosomes by keratinocytes. This study demonstrated that macrophage migration inhibitory factor (MIF) stimulated PAR-2 expression in human keratinocytes. In addition, we showed that MIF stimulated stem cell factor (SCF) release in keratinocytes; however, MIF had no effect on the release of endothelin-1 or prostaglandin E2 in keratinocytes. In addition, MIF had no direct effect on melanin and tyrosinase synthesis in cultured human melanocytes. The effect of MIF on melanogenesis was also examined using a three-dimensional reconstituted human epidermal culture model, which is a novel, commercially available, cultured human epidermis containing functional melanocytes. Migration inhibitory factor induced an increase in melanin content in the epidermis after a 9-day culture period. Moreover, melanin synthesis induced by UV-B stimulation was significantly down-regulated by anti-MIF antibody treatment. An in vivo study showed that the back skin of MIF transgenic mice had a higher melanin content than that of wild-type mice after 12 weeks of UV-B exposure. Therefore, MIF-mediated melanogenesis occurs mainly through the activation of PAR-2 and SCF expression in keratinocytes after exposure to UV-B radiation.

Inhibitory components from the buds of clove (Syzygium aromaticum) on melanin formation in B16 melanoma cells

In the course to find a new whitening agent, we evaluated the methanol extract from bud of clove (Syzygium aromaticum) on melanin formation in B16 melanoma cells. Eugenol and eugenol acetate were isolated as the active compounds and showed melanin inhibition of 60% and 40% in B16 melanoma cell with less cytotoxicity at the concentration of 100 and 200 μg/mL, respectively. Furthermore, an essential oil prepared from the bud of clove, which contain eugenol and eugenol acetate as dominant components, showed melanin inhibition of 50% and 80% in B16 melanoma cells at the concentration of 100 and 200 μg/mL, respectively.

The fibroblast-derived paracrine factor neuregulin-1 has a novel role in regulating the constitutive color and melanocyte function in human skin

Interactions between melanocytes and neighboring cells in the skin are important in regulating skin color in humans. We recently demonstrated that the less pigmented and thicker skin on the palms and soles is regulated by underlying fibroblasts in those areas, specifically via a secreted factor (DKK1) that modulates Wnt signaling. In this study, we tested the hypothesis that dermal fibroblasts regulate the constitutive skin color of individuals ranging from very light to very dark. We used microarray analysis to compare gene expression patterns in fibroblasts derived from lighter skin types compared to darker skin types, with a focus on secreted proteins. We identified a number of genes that differ dramatically in expression and, among the expressed proteins, neuregulin-1, which is secreted by fibroblasts derived from dark skin, effectively increases the pigmentation of melanocytes in tissue culture and in an artificial skin model and regulates their growth, suggesting that it is one of the major factors determining human skin color.