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Champmartin C, Chedik L, Marquet F, Cosnier F. Occupational exposure assessment with solid substances: choosing a vehicle for in vitro percutaneous absorption experiments. Crit Rev Toxicol 2022; 52:294-316. [PMID: 36125048 DOI: 10.1080/10408444.2022.2097052] [Citation(s) in RCA: 4] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 01/31/2023]
Abstract
Percutaneous occupational exposure to industrial toxicants can be assessed in vitro on excised human or animal skins. Numerous factors can significantly influence skin permeation of chemicals and the flux determination. Among them, the vehicle used to solubilize the solid substances is a tricky key step. A "realistic surrogate" that closely matches the exposure scenario is recommended in first intention. When direct transposition of occupational exposure conditions to in vitro experiments is impossible, it is recommended that the vehicle used does not affect the skin barrier (in particular in terms of structural integrity, composition, or enzymatic activity). Indeed, any such effect could alter the percutaneous absorption of substances in a number of ways, as we will see. Potential effects are described for five monophasic vehicles, including the three most frequently used: water, ethanol, acetone; and two that are more rarely used, but are realistic: artificial sebum and artificial sweat. Finally, we discuss a number of criteria to be verified and the associated tests that should be performed when choosing the most appropriate vehicle, keeping in mind that, in the context of occupational exposure, the scientific quality of the percutaneous absorption data provided, and how they are interpreted, may have long-range consequences. From the narrative review presented, we also identify and discuss important factors to consider in future updates of the OECD guidelines for in vitro skin absorption experiments.
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Affiliation(s)
- Catherine Champmartin
- French National Research and Safety Institute for the Prevention of Occupational Accidents and Diseases (INRS), Vandoeuvre-les-Nancy Cedex, France
| | - Lisa Chedik
- French National Research and Safety Institute for the Prevention of Occupational Accidents and Diseases (INRS), Vandoeuvre-les-Nancy Cedex, France
| | - Fabrice Marquet
- French National Research and Safety Institute for the Prevention of Occupational Accidents and Diseases (INRS), Vandoeuvre-les-Nancy Cedex, France
| | - Frédéric Cosnier
- French National Research and Safety Institute for the Prevention of Occupational Accidents and Diseases (INRS), Vandoeuvre-les-Nancy Cedex, France
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Bujak T, Wasilewski T, Nizioł-Łukaszewska Z. Effect of molecular weight of polyvinylpyrrolidone on the skin irritation potential and properties of body wash cosmetics in the coacervate form. PURE APPL CHEM 2019. [DOI: 10.1515/pac-2018-0703] [Citation(s) in RCA: 6] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/15/2022]
Abstract
Abstract
Body wash cosmetics are among the most common groups of cosmetics used by consumers. Faced with strong competition in the marketplace, cosmetic manufacturers search for innovative solutions both in terms of product composition and form. An example of an innovative technology which can be used in the production of body wash cosmetics is the process of coacervation which yields a concentrated body wash product. Another important aspect which needs to be considered in the formulation of body wash cosmetics is their safety of use. It is crucial to ensure that such cosmetic products do not induce skin irritations. At present, the most widespread method of reducing the skin irritation potential of cosmetic products is the use of surfactant mixtures. The study is an attempt to evaluate the effect of using polyvinylpyrrolidone in the formulations of model body wash cosmetics in the coacervate form on the skin irritation potential and basic quality determinants of body wash products. Polyvinylpyrrolidone was found to contribute to a significant reduction in the irritant effect, and the skin irritation potential decreased in proportion to increasing molecular mass of the polymer. The application of polyvinylpyrrolidone with the different molecular weight also has an impact on improving the foaming properties of model body wash cosmetics and the stability of foam they produce.
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Affiliation(s)
- Tomasz Bujak
- Department of Technology of Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Products , University of Information Technology and Management in Rzeszow , Sucharskiego 2 , Rzeszow 35-225 , Poland
| | - Tomasz Wasilewski
- Department of Chemistry , University of Technology and Humanities in Radom , Chrobrego 27 , Radom 26-600 , Poland
| | - Zofia Nizioł-Łukaszewska
- Department of Technology of Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Products , University of Information Technology and Management in Rzeszow , Sucharskiego 2 , Rzeszow 35-225 , Poland
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Kim AR, An HJ, Jang ES, Lee JD, Park SN. Preparation, Physical Characterization, and In Vitro Skin Permeation of Deformable Liposomes Loaded with Taxifolin and Taxifolin Tetraoctanoate. EUR J LIPID SCI TECH 2019. [DOI: 10.1002/ejlt.201800501] [Citation(s) in RCA: 2] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 12/30/2022]
Affiliation(s)
- A. Rang Kim
- Department of Fine Chemistry, Cosmetic R&D Center, Seoul National University of Science and Technology232, Gongneung‐ro, Nowon‐guSeoul 01811South Korea
| | - Hyun Jin An
- Yeomyung Biochem, Room 301, K hall, Startup Center, Chungcheong University38 Wolgot‐gil, Gangnae‐myeon, Heungdeok‐gu, Cheongju‐siChungbuk‐do 28171Korea
| | - Eun Sang Jang
- Yeomyung Biochem, Room 301, K hall, Startup Center, Chungcheong University38 Wolgot‐gil, Gangnae‐myeon, Heungdeok‐gu, Cheongju‐siChungbuk‐do 28171Korea
| | - Jae Duk Lee
- Yeomyung Biochem, Room 301, K hall, Startup Center, Chungcheong University38 Wolgot‐gil, Gangnae‐myeon, Heungdeok‐gu, Cheongju‐siChungbuk‐do 28171Korea
| | - Soo Nam Park
- Department of Fine Chemistry, Cosmetic R&D Center, Seoul National University of Science and Technology232, Gongneung‐ro, Nowon‐guSeoul 01811South Korea
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Yanase K, Hatta I. Disruption of human stratum corneum lipid structure by sodium dodecyl sulphate. Int J Cosmet Sci 2017; 40:44-49. [DOI: 10.1111/ics.12430] [Citation(s) in RCA: 22] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 04/22/2017] [Accepted: 09/14/2017] [Indexed: 11/30/2022]
Affiliation(s)
- K. Yanase
- Kracie Home Products; 134 Goudocho, Hodogaya-ku Yokohama 240-0005 Japan
| | - I. Hatta
- Nagoya Industrial Science Research Institute; 1-13 Yotsuyadori Chikusa-ku Nagoya Aichi 464-0819 Japan
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Chen Y, Qiao F, Fan Y, Han Y, Wang Y. Interactions of Cationic/Anionic Mixed Surfactant Aggregates with Phospholipid Vesicles and Their Skin Penetration Ability. LANGMUIR : THE ACS JOURNAL OF SURFACES AND COLLOIDS 2017; 33:2760-2769. [PMID: 28013540 DOI: 10.1021/acs.langmuir.6b04093] [Citation(s) in RCA: 19] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.4] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 06/06/2023]
Abstract
This work studied the interactions of an oppositely charged surfactant mixture of oleyl bis(2-hydroxyethyl)methyl ammonium bromide (OHAB) and sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) with 1,2-di-(9Z-octadecenoyl)-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine (DOPC) vesicles as well as the penetration of the OHAB/SDS mixture through model skin, aimed at understanding the relationship between the ability of different surfactant aggregates in solubilizing phospholipid vesicles and their potential in irritating skin. By changing the molar fraction of OHAB (XOHAB), five kinds of aggregates are constructed: OHAB and SDS separately form cationic and anionic small micelles, whereas the OHAB/SDS mixtures form cationic and anionic vesicles at XOHAB = 0.30 and 0.70, respectively, and weakly charged vesicles at XOHAB = 0.50. The mixtures have much lower critical micellar concentrations (CMCs) and much larger aggregates than either OHAB or SDS alone, and the CMC and the size of the OHAB/SDS vesicles decrease with the increase in XOHAB. The phase diagrams indicate that the OHAB/SDS mixtures show much stronger ability in solubilizing the DOPC vesicles than individual OHAB and SDS and decrease in the order of XOHAB = 0.30 > 0.50 > 0.70 ≫ 1.00 > 0. However, the ability of the surfactants in penetrating the model skin decreases reversely, and the penetration of the surfactants are significantly reduced by mixing. These results indicate that the surfactant mixture with a larger aggregate size and a smaller CMC value displays much stronger ability in solubilizing the DOPC vesicles but much weaker ability in penetrating the skin.
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Affiliation(s)
- Yao Chen
- Key Laboratory of Colloid and Interface Science, Beijing National Laboratory for Molecular Sciences (BNLMS), Institute of Chemistry, Chinese Academy of Sciences , Beijing 100190, P. R. China
- University of Chinese Academy of Sciences , Beijing 100049, P. R. China
| | - Fulin Qiao
- Key Laboratory of Colloid and Interface Science, Beijing National Laboratory for Molecular Sciences (BNLMS), Institute of Chemistry, Chinese Academy of Sciences , Beijing 100190, P. R. China
- University of Chinese Academy of Sciences , Beijing 100049, P. R. China
| | - Yaxun Fan
- Key Laboratory of Colloid and Interface Science, Beijing National Laboratory for Molecular Sciences (BNLMS), Institute of Chemistry, Chinese Academy of Sciences , Beijing 100190, P. R. China
| | - Yuchun Han
- Key Laboratory of Colloid and Interface Science, Beijing National Laboratory for Molecular Sciences (BNLMS), Institute of Chemistry, Chinese Academy of Sciences , Beijing 100190, P. R. China
| | - Yilin Wang
- Key Laboratory of Colloid and Interface Science, Beijing National Laboratory for Molecular Sciences (BNLMS), Institute of Chemistry, Chinese Academy of Sciences , Beijing 100190, P. R. China
- University of Chinese Academy of Sciences , Beijing 100049, P. R. China
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Moner V, Fernández E, Del Pozo A, Rodríguez G, Cócera M, de la Maza A, López O. Sorption-desorption test for functional assessment of skin treated with a lipid system that mimics epidermal lamellar bodies. Contact Dermatitis 2017; 77:25-34. [PMID: 28300294 DOI: 10.1111/cod.12771] [Citation(s) in RCA: 2] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 11/15/2016] [Revised: 01/03/2017] [Accepted: 01/09/2017] [Indexed: 12/22/2022]
Abstract
BACKGROUND Many skin diseases are associated with either increases or decreases in lamellar body secretion, or dysfunctional lamellar bodies. Consequently, diseased skin is characterized by reduced barrier function and altered lipid composition and organization. Human skin is commonly evaluated in vivo with non-invasive biophysical techniques. The dynamic functions of the skin are evaluated with repeat measurements such as the sorption-desorption test (SDT). OBJECTIVES The aim of this study was to evaluate in vivo skin hydration-dehydration kinetics after treatment with a lipid system that mimics the morphology, structure and composition of lamellar bodies in both healthy and irritated human skin. METHODS A patch with an aqueous solution of 2% sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) was used to irritate the skin of the volunteers. The SDT was performed with the CM 820 corneometer. RESULTS After treatment with this system, both healthy and SLS-irritated skin increased their ability to retain water and to release water slowly during the desorption phase. CONCLUSIONS Treatment with this system seems to reinforce the barrier function in both healthy and SLS-irritated human skin. Therefore, the present study provides evidence that this system could be of interest for developing future treatments for protecting and repairing the skin.
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Affiliation(s)
- Verónica Moner
- Department of Chemical and Surfactant Technology, Institute of Advanced Chemistry of Catalonia (IQAC-CSIC), 08034, Barcelona, Spain
| | | | - Alfonso Del Pozo
- Faculty of Pharmacy, Department of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Technology, University of Barcelona, 08028, Barcelona, Spain
| | | | | | - Alfonso de la Maza
- Department of Chemical and Surfactant Technology, Institute of Advanced Chemistry of Catalonia (IQAC-CSIC), 08034, Barcelona, Spain
| | - Olga López
- Department of Chemical and Surfactant Technology, Institute of Advanced Chemistry of Catalonia (IQAC-CSIC), 08034, Barcelona, Spain
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7
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Improvement in the Safety of Use of Hand Dishwashing Liquids Through the Addition of Hydrophobic Plant Extracts. J SURFACTANTS DETERG 2016; 19:1315-1326. [PMID: 27795665 PMCID: PMC5055909 DOI: 10.1007/s11743-016-1868-x] [Citation(s) in RCA: 16] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 05/13/2016] [Accepted: 08/18/2016] [Indexed: 11/18/2022]
Abstract
We investigated the effect of hydrophobic extract concentration on the safety of using hand dishwashing liquids (HDL). A series of formulations was prepared, differing in the concentration of the hydrophobic chamomile extract obtained in supercritical CO2 conditions (from 0 to 0.7 %). We found that an increase in the concentration of the extract led to a decrease in the zein number, and reduced changes in the pH level of bovine serum albumin solution (i.e., two parameters determining the irritant activity of the formulations). It was also found that the additives reduced transepidermal water loss and improved the skin hydration level. Based on the findings of the study, a mechanism has been proposed, according to which hydrophobic plant extracts form aggregates in the volume phase of the washing bath. The surface of the aggregates is the adsorption area for surfactant monomers responsible for the irritant effect. Increasing the addition of the extract was shown to reduce the negative impact of the formulations on the skin of the hands, thus contributing to a greater safety of use of HDL.
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8
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Quatela A, Tfayli A, Baillet-Guffroy A. Examination of the effect of Stratum Corneum isolation process on the integrity of the barrier function: a confocal Raman spectroscopy study. Skin Res Technol 2015; 22:75-80. [DOI: 10.1111/srt.12231] [Citation(s) in RCA: 12] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.2] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Accepted: 02/15/2015] [Indexed: 11/28/2022]
Affiliation(s)
- A. Quatela
- Laboratory of Analytical Chemistry; Analytical Chemistry Group of Paris-Sud (GCAPS-EA4041); Faculty of Pharmacy; University of Paris-Sud; Châtenay-Malabry France
| | - A. Tfayli
- Laboratory of Analytical Chemistry; Analytical Chemistry Group of Paris-Sud (GCAPS-EA4041); Faculty of Pharmacy; University of Paris-Sud; Châtenay-Malabry France
| | - A. Baillet-Guffroy
- Laboratory of Analytical Chemistry; Analytical Chemistry Group of Paris-Sud (GCAPS-EA4041); Faculty of Pharmacy; University of Paris-Sud; Châtenay-Malabry France
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9
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Ananthapadmanabhan K, Mukherjee S, Chandar P. Stratum corneum fatty acids: their critical role in preserving barrier integrity during cleansing. Int J Cosmet Sci 2013; 35:337-45. [DOI: 10.1111/ics.12042] [Citation(s) in RCA: 49] [Impact Index Per Article: 4.1] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/06/2012] [Accepted: 01/21/2013] [Indexed: 11/28/2022]
Affiliation(s)
| | - S. Mukherjee
- Unilever Research and Development; 40 Merritt Blvd Trumbull CT U.S.A
| | - P. Chandar
- Unilever Research and Development; 40 Merritt Blvd Trumbull CT U.S.A
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10
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Cleansing formulations that respect skin barrier integrity. Dermatol Res Pract 2012; 2012:495917. [PMID: 22927835 PMCID: PMC3425021 DOI: 10.1155/2012/495917] [Citation(s) in RCA: 36] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 04/25/2012] [Accepted: 06/25/2012] [Indexed: 11/19/2022] Open
Abstract
Surfactants in skin cleansers interact with the skin in several manners. In addition to the desired benefit of providing skin hygiene, surfactants also extract skin components during cleansing and remain in the stratum corneum (SC) after rinsing. These side effects disrupt SC structure and degrade its barrier properties. Recent applications of vibrational spectroscopy and two-photon microscopy in skin research have provided molecular-level information to facilitate our understanding of the interaction between skin and surfactant. In the arena of commercial skin cleansers, technologies have been developed to produce cleansers that both cleanse and respect skin barrier. The main approach is to minimize surfactant interaction with skin through altering its solution properties. Recently, hydrophobically modified polymers (HMPs) have been introduced to create skin compatible cleansing systems. At the presence of HMP, surfactants assemble into larger, more stable structures. These structures are less likely to penetrate the skin, thereby resulting in less aggressive cleansers and the integrity of the skin barrier is maintained. In this paper, we reviewed our recent findings on surfactant and SC interactions at molecular level and provided an overview of the HM technology for developing cleansers that respect skin barrier.
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11
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Mao G, Flach CR, Mendelsohn R, Walters RM. Imaging the distribution of sodium dodecyl sulfate in skin by confocal Raman and infrared microspectroscopy. Pharm Res 2012; 29:2189-201. [PMID: 22477073 PMCID: PMC3399083 DOI: 10.1007/s11095-012-0748-y] [Citation(s) in RCA: 46] [Impact Index Per Article: 3.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 11/30/2011] [Accepted: 03/22/2012] [Indexed: 01/06/2023]
Abstract
Purpose To image SDS distribution across different skin regions, to compare the permeability difference between porcine and human skin, and to evaluate the interaction between SDS and skin. Methods Full thickness porcine and human skin was treated with acyl chain perdeuterated SDS (SDS-d25) at room temperature and at 34 °C for 3, 24 and 40 h. SDS distribution in skin was monitored by confocal Raman and IR microspectroscopic imaging. Permeation profiles of SDS-d25 in skin were derived from the band intensities of the CD2 stretching vibrations. The interaction between SDS and skin was monitored through the CH2 and CD2 stretching frequencies and the Amide I and II spectral region. Results SDS-d25 penetrates both porcine and human skin in a time and temperature-dependent manner, with slightly higher permeability through the stratum corneum (SC) in porcine skin. When SDS permeates into the SC, its chains are more ordered compared to SDS micelles. The secondary structure of keratin in the SC is not affected by SDS-d25. Conclusion The spatial distribution of SDS-d25 in skin was obtained for the first time. Infrared microscopic imaging provides unique opportunities to measure concentration profiles of exogenous materials in skin and offers insights to interaction between permeants and skin. Electronic supplementary material The online version of this article (doi:10.1007/s11095-012-0748-y) contains supplementary material, which is available to authorized users.
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Affiliation(s)
- G Mao
- Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc., 199 Grandview Rd., Skillman, New Jersey 08558-9418, USA.
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12
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13
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Levi K, Weber RJ, Do JQ, Dauskardt RH. Drying stress and damage processes in human stratum corneum. Int J Cosmet Sci 2009; 32:276-93. [PMID: 19889042 DOI: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00557.x] [Citation(s) in RCA: 47] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.9] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 12/01/2022]
Abstract
SYNOPSIS The drying stresses that develop in stratum corneum (SC) are crucial for its mechanical and biophysical function, its cosmetic feel and appearance, and play a central role in processes of dry skin damage. However, quantitative methods to characterize these stresses are lacking and little understanding exists regarding the effects of drying environment, chemical exposures and moisturizing treatments. We describe the application of a substrate curvature technique adapted for biological tissue to accurately characterize SC drying stresses as a function of time following environmental pre-conditioning and chemical treatment in a range of drying environments. SC stresses were observed to increase to stress levels of up to approximately 3 MPa over periods of 8 h depending on pretreatment and drying environment. A unique relationship between the SC stress and water in the drying environment was established. The effect of glycerol on lowering SC stresses and damaging surfactants on elevating SC stresses were quantified. Extensions of the method to continuous monitoring of SC stresses in response to changes in environmental moisture content and temperature are reported. Finally, a biomechanics framework to account for the SC drying stress as a mechanical driving force for dry skin damage is presented.
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Affiliation(s)
- K Levi
- Department of Materials Science and Engineering, Stanford University, Stanford, CA 94305, USA
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14
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Zbytovská J, Kiselev M, Funari S, Garamus V, Wartewig S, Palát K, Neubert R. Influence of cholesterol on the structure of stratum corneum lipid model membrane. Colloids Surf A Physicochem Eng Asp 2008. [DOI: 10.1016/j.colsurfa.2008.06.032] [Citation(s) in RCA: 18] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.1] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/25/2022]
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15
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Kim YC, Park JH, Ludovice PJ, Prausnitz MR. Synergistic enhancement of skin permeability by N-lauroylsarcosine and ethanol. Int J Pharm 2008; 352:129-38. [DOI: 10.1016/j.ijpharm.2007.10.031] [Citation(s) in RCA: 33] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.9] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 08/14/2007] [Revised: 10/01/2007] [Accepted: 10/20/2007] [Indexed: 10/22/2022]
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Pierre MBR, Ricci E, Tedesco AC, Bentley MVLB. Oleic acid as optimizer of the skin delivery of 5-aminolevulinic acid in photodynamic therapy. Pharm Res 2006; 23:360-6. [PMID: 16341572 DOI: 10.1007/s11095-005-9261-x] [Citation(s) in RCA: 53] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 08/30/2005] [Accepted: 10/26/2005] [Indexed: 01/23/2023]
Abstract
PURPOSE In photodynamic therapy (PDT), topically applied aminolevulinic acid (5-ALA) is converted to protoporphyrin IX (PpIX), which upon light excitation induces tumor destruction. To optimize 5-ALA-PDT via improving the highly hydrophilic 5-ALA limited penetration into the skin, we propose the use of the known skin penetration enhancer, oleic acid (OA). METHODS In vitro skin penetration and retention of 5-ALA (1% w/w) were measured in the presence or absence of OA (2.5, 5.0, and 10.0% w/w) in propylene glycol (PG) using porcine ear skin as the membrane. In vivo accumulation of PpIX, 4 h after application, was determined fluorometrically in healthy mice skin by chemical extraction of skin samples. In vivo PpIX fluorescence kinetics was also investigated by noninvasive techniques using an optical fiber probe, for 30 min up to 24 h after topical application of 1.0% 5-ALA + 10.0% OA in PG on hairless mice skins. RESULTS The flux and in vitro retention of 5-ALA in viable epidermis increased in the presence of 10.0% (w/w) OA. The amounts of PpIX, evaluated both by chemical tissue extractions and in vivo measurements by an optical fiber probe, increased after applying 5-ALA formulations containing 5.0 or 10.0% OA. Moreover, in vivo kinetic studies showed an increase in skin PpIX accumulation when formulations containing 10% OA were used; PpIX accumulation was also maintained longer compared to controls. CONCLUSIONS Both in vitro and in vivo results show the OA potential as an optimizer of 5-ALA skin delivery.
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Affiliation(s)
- Maria Bernadete Riemma Pierre
- Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas de Ribeirão Preto, Universidade de São Paulo, Av. do Café s/n, 14040-903, Ribeirão Preto, São Paulo, San Paul, Brazil
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17
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Gloor M. How do dermatological vehicles influence the horny layer? Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2005; 17:267-73. [PMID: 15528956 DOI: 10.1159/000081111] [Citation(s) in RCA: 17] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.9] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/19/2004] [Accepted: 07/22/2004] [Indexed: 11/19/2022]
Abstract
Emulsifying agents in aqueous solution lead to dehydration of the horny layer of the epidermis and damage to the barrier. This is only partly true if emulsifying agents are constituents of emulsions. Water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions cause an improvement in the hydration of the horny layer and barrier function. In the case of an additional effect of wash solutions, a partial or complete abolition of the drying out and barrier-damaging effect of the wash solution results. Oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions without glycerol have no effect on the moisture of the horny layer or indeed increase it, but they lead to considerable damage to the barrier and irritation. In wash tests, they do not induce any protective effect. With micro-emulsions this is still more the case and, moreover, they can also lead to exsiccation. As a result of the addition of glycerol, the barrier-damaging effect can be abolished. Also in stress tests with wash solutions, the damage to the horny layer is reduced by glycerol-containing O/W emulsions. Whereas the penetration-promoting effect of O/W emulsions without glycerol is best, only W/O emulsions or glycerol-containing O/W emulsions are suitable for atopic dermatitis. A hydrating effect on the stratum corneum was also found in a propylene glycol ointment.
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Affiliation(s)
- M Gloor
- Dermatological Department, City Hospital of Karlsruhe, Karlsruhe, Germany.
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18
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Gloor M, Wasik B, Gehring W, Grieshaber R, Kleesz P, Fluhr JW. Cleansing, dehydrating, barrier-damaging and irritating hyperaemising effect of four detergent brands: comparative studies using standardised washing models. Skin Res Technol 2004; 10:1-9. [PMID: 14731242 DOI: 10.1111/j.1600-0846.2004.00045.x] [Citation(s) in RCA: 25] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.2] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/30/2022]
Abstract
UNLABELLED BACKGROUND AND PROBLEM: It is well known that the damaging effect of surfactants on the stratum corneum varies according to the surfactant used. The present investigations aim to compare four standard commercial cleansing solutions (Esemptan Cleansing Lotion, Stephalen Shower Gel, Manipur Antimicrobial Cleansing Solution and Tork Mevon 55 Liquid Soap) with respect to their cleansing and skin barrier-damaging effects. MATERIAL AND METHODS The cleansing effect of the solutions was determined in relation to their concentrations in a first experimental series involving 15 subjects using a standardised test method. The product concentrations with the most divergent cleansing effects were tested for their dehydrating (corneometry), epidermal barrier-damaging (TEWL) and irritating effects (laser Doppler) in a standardised washing test. In a second experimental series, the concentration used for the cleansing solutions was based on the quantity of cleansing solution obtained from dispenser actuations (six actuations/L). These concentrations were used to test the cleansing and damaging effect on the stratum corneum using the same methods as in the first experimental series. RESULTS There were no significant differences in the first experimental series. In the second experimental series, Stephalen Shower Gel showed disadvantages in terms of a small cleansing effect, but without evidence of a smaller stratum corneum-damaging effect, and Tork Mevon 55 Liquid Soap showed advantages in terms of a smaller stratum corneum-damaging effect, but without evidence of a smaller cleansing effect. CONCLUSIONS These studies showed that the relationship between the cleansing and the damaging effect on the stratum corneum can be properly assessed only by testing different concentrations. Furthermore, this experimental approach allowed to differentiate the four tested cleansing solutions.
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Affiliation(s)
- Max Gloor
- Dermatology Clinic of the Hospital of the City of Karlsruhe GmbH, Germany
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19
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Ananthapadmanabhan KP, Moore DJ, Subramanyan K, Misra M, Meyer F. Cleansing without compromise: the impact of cleansers on the skin barrier and the technology of mild cleansing. Dermatol Ther 2004; 17 Suppl 1:16-25. [PMID: 14728695 DOI: 10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04s1002.x] [Citation(s) in RCA: 175] [Impact Index Per Article: 8.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 12/01/2022]
Abstract
Cleanser technology has come a long way from merely cleansing to providing mildness and moisturizing benefits as well. It is known that harsh surfactants in cleansers can cause damage to skin proteins and lipids, leading to after-wash tightness, dryness, barrier damage, irritation, and even itch. In order for cleansers to provide skin-care benefits, they first must minimize surfactant damage to skin proteins and lipids. Secondly, they must deposit and deliver beneficial agents such as occlusives, skin lipids, and humectants under wash conditions to improve skin hydration, as well as mechanical and visual properties. While all surfactants tend to interact to some degree with lipids, their interaction with proteins can vary significantly, depending upon the nature of their functional head group. In vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo studies have shown that surfactants that cause significant skin irritation interact strongly with skin proteins. Based on this understanding, several surfactants and surfactant mixtures have been identified as "less irritating" mild surfactants because of their diminished interactions with skin proteins. Surfactants that interact minimally with both skin lipids and proteins are especially mild. Another factor that can aggravate surfactant-induced dryness and irritation is the pH of the cleanser. The present authors' recent studies demonstrate that high pH (pH 10) solutions, even in the absence of surfactants, can increase stratum corneum (SC) swelling and alter lipid rigidity, thereby suggesting that cleansers with neutral or acidic pH, close to SC-normal pH 5.5, may be potentially less damaging to the skin. Mildness enhancers and moisturizing agents such as lipids, occlusives, and humectants minimize damaging interactions between surfactants, and skin proteins and lipids, and thereby, reduce skin damage. In addition, these agents play an ameliorative role, replenishing the skin lipids lost during the wash period. The present review discusses the benefits of such agents and their respective roles in improving the overall health of the skin barrier.
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Ananthapadmanabhan KP, Lips A, Vincent C, Meyer F, Caso S, Johnson A, Subramanyan K, Vethamuthu M, Rattinger G, Moore DJ. pH-induced alterations in stratum corneum properties. Int J Cosmet Sci 2003; 25:103-12. [DOI: 10.1046/j.1467-2494.2003.00176.x] [Citation(s) in RCA: 46] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.1] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/20/2022]
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Gloor M, Gehring W. [Effects of emulsions on the stratum corneum barrier and hydration]. DER HAUTARZT 2003; 54:324-30. [PMID: 12669203 DOI: 10.1007/s00105-003-0512-7] [Citation(s) in RCA: 14] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.6] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 10/20/2022]
Abstract
The appearance of the skin depends greatly on the hydration of the stratum corneum which is regulated by water binding substances of the corneocytes and also by the quality of the stratum corneum lipids. Furthermore these lipids are responsible for the barrier function. In patients with atopic dermatitis, the water binding capacity and the barrier function of the stratum corneum are reduced even in clinically healthy skin areas. Emollients can damage the stratum corneum and lead to desiccation and a disturbance of the barrier. This effect is a result of an increased permeability of the barrier lipids and direct damage to the keratinocytes and corneocytes. The degree of damage of the barrier caused by emollients in dermatological vehicles has not been sufficiently investigated. As suggested by hypothetical considerations, such an effect is not expected and cannot be demonstrated in water-in-oil-emulsions. Oil-in-water-emulsions without glycerol as well as lipophilic and hydrophilic microemulsions do damage the barrier function. Both types of microemulsions additionally lead to a dehydration of the stratum corneum. The damaging effect of oil-in-water-emulsions can be reduced by the addition of glycerol and urea.
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Affiliation(s)
- M Gloor
- Hautklinik am Klinikum der Stadt Karlsruhe gGmbH.
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López O, Cócera M, Parra J, de la Maza A. Influence of the alkyl chain length of alkyl glucosides on their ability to solubilize phosphatidylcholine liposomes. Colloids Surf A Physicochem Eng Asp 2001. [DOI: 10.1016/s0927-7757(01)00698-7] [Citation(s) in RCA: 27] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.1] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/26/2022]
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Pierre MBR, Tedesco AC, Marchetti JM, Bentley MVLB. Stratum corneum lipids liposomes for the topical delivery of 5-aminolevulinic acid in photodynamic therapy of skin cancer: preparation and in vitro permeation study. BMC DERMATOLOGY 2001; 1:5. [PMID: 11545679 PMCID: PMC55336 DOI: 10.1186/1471-5945-1-5] [Citation(s) in RCA: 70] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.9] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/20/2001] [Accepted: 08/30/2001] [Indexed: 11/13/2022]
Abstract
BACKGROUND Photodynamic therapy (PDT) using 5-aminolevulinic acid (5-ALA) is a skin cancer therapy that still has limitations due to the low penetration of this drug into the skin. We have proposed in this work a delivery system for 5-ALA based on liposomes having lipid composition similar to the mammalian stratum corneum (SCLLs) in order to optimize its skin delivery in Photodynamic Therapy (PDT) of skin cancers. METHODS SCLLs were obtained by reverse phase evaporation technique and size distribution of the vesicles was determinated by photon correlation spectroscopy. In vitro permeation profile was characterized using hairless mouse skin mounted in modified Franz diffusion cell. RESULTS Size exclusion chromatography on gel filtration confirmed vesicle formation. SCLLs obtained by presented a degree of encapsulation of 5-ALA around 5.7%. A distribution of vesicle size centering at around 500 nm and 400 nm respectively for SCLLs and SCLLs containing 5-ALA was found. In vitro 5-ALA permeation study showed that SCLLs preparations presented higher skin retention significantly (p < 0.05) on the epidermis without SC + dermis, with a decreasing of skin permeation compared to aqueous solution. CONCLUSIONS The in vitro delivery performance provided by SCLLs lead to consider this systems adequate for the 5-ALA-PDT of skin cancer, since SCLLs have delivered 5-ALA to the target skin layers (viable epidermis + dermis) to be treated by topical PDT of skin cancer.
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Affiliation(s)
- Maria Bernadete R Pierre
- Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas de Ribeirão Preto, Universidade de São Paulo, Av. do Café s/n, CEP 14040-903, Ribeirão Preto, SP, Brasil
| | - Antônio C Tedesco
- Faculdade de Filosofia, Ciências e Letras de Ribeirão Preto, Universidade de São Paulo, Brasil
| | - Juliana M Marchetti
- Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas de Ribeirão Preto, Universidade de São Paulo, Av. do Café s/n, CEP 14040-903, Ribeirão Preto, SP, Brasil
| | - M Vitória LB Bentley
- Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas de Ribeirão Preto, Universidade de São Paulo, Av. do Café s/n, CEP 14040-903, Ribeirão Preto, SP, Brasil
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Deo N, Somasundaran P. Mechanism of mixed liposome solubilization in the presence of sodium dodecyl sulfate. Colloids Surf A Physicochem Eng Asp 2001. [DOI: 10.1016/s0927-7757(01)00480-0] [Citation(s) in RCA: 34] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.4] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/25/2022]
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Cócera M, López O, Coderch L, Parra J, de la Maza A. Solubilization of stratum corneum lipid liposomes by Triton X-100. Influence of the level of cholesteryl sulfate in the process. Colloids Surf A Physicochem Eng Asp 2001. [DOI: 10.1016/s0927-7757(00)00818-9] [Citation(s) in RCA: 8] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 10/18/2022]
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Sublytic alterations caused by alkyl glucosides in stratum corneum lipid liposomes. Colloids Surf A Physicochem Eng Asp 2001. [DOI: 10.1016/s0927-7757(00)00629-4] [Citation(s) in RCA: 2] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.1] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/23/2022]
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López O, Cócera M, de la Maza A, Coderch L, Parra JL. Different stratum corneum lipid liposomes as models to evaluate the effect of the sodium dodecyl sulfate. BIOCHIMICA ET BIOPHYSICA ACTA 2000; 1508:196-209. [PMID: 11090826 DOI: 10.1016/s0005-2736(00)00306-0] [Citation(s) in RCA: 15] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.6] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/18/2022]
Abstract
The stability of stratum corneum (SC) liposomes against the action of surfactants has been revised. To this end, two types of vesicles were used; vesicles formed with the lipid and protein material extracted from SC, and lipid mixtures approximating the SC composition. In this case, the proportion of ceramides (Cer) and cholesteryl sulfate (Chol-sulf) was varied and the relative proportion of the other lipids remained constant. The increasing presence of these two lipids increased the resistance of liposomes against the action of the anionic surfactant sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS). The rise in the cell-to-cell cohesion that occurred in recessive X-linked ichthyosis due to the accumulation of Chol-sulf could be associated in part to the enhanced stability of (Chol-sulf)-enriched bilayers. It is noteworthy that the surfactant partitioning between bilayers and the aqueous phase increased and decreased, respectively, as the proportion of Cer and Chol-sulf increased. This effect may be attributed to the variations in both the electrostatic interactions lipid-surfactant (electrostatic repulsion between the sulfate groups of both Chol-sulf and SDS), and the hydrophilic lipophilic balance of the lipid mixtures, in which Cer is replaced by the major polar lipid of the mixture (Chol-sulf). The fact that the free surfactant concentration was always smaller than its critical micelle concentration indicates that the permeability alterations were mainly ruled by the action of surfactant monomers, in agreement with the results reported for sublytic interactions of this surfactant with PC liposomes.
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Affiliation(s)
- O López
- Departamento de Tensioactivos, Instituto de Investigaciones Químicas y Ambientales de Barcelona, Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas, Calle Jorge Girona 18-26, 08034, Barcelona, Spain
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Cócera M, López O, Coderch L, Parra JL, de la Maza A. Alterations in stratum corneum lipid liposomes due to the action of triton X-100. Influence of the level of ceramides on this process. J Control Release 2000; 68:387-96. [PMID: 10974392 DOI: 10.1016/s0168-3659(00)00279-0] [Citation(s) in RCA: 10] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.4] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/27/2022]
Abstract
The role played by the ceramides (Cer) in the interaction of Triton X-100 (T(X-100)) with liposomes modeling the stratum corneum (SC) lipid composition was studied. The surfactant/lipid molar ratios (Re) and the bilayer/aqueous phase partition coefficients (K) were determined at sublytic level by monitoring the changes in the fluorescence intensity of liposomes due to the 5(6)-carboxyfluorescein (CF) released from the interior of vesicles. Higher and lower Cer proportions than those existing in the SC (40%) led respectively to a fall and to a rise in the surfactant ability to alter these liposomes. However, the surfactant partitioning between bilayers and water (bilayer affinity with vesicles) exhibited a maximum for 40% Cer. Thus, at low Cer proportions the ability of T(X-100) molecules to alter these bilayers was maximum despite their reduced partitioning into bilayers, in line with the reported interaction of the anionic surfactant model sodium dodecyl sulfate with these vesicles. These findings underline the fragility of these bilayers as an effective barrier and could explain in part the reported dependencies of low level of Cer in skin lipids and function barrier abnormalities. The fact that the free surfactant concentration needed to achieve the two interaction levels investigated was lower than the surfactant CMC indicates that permeability alterations were mainly ruled by the action of surfactant monomers, regardless of Cer proportion in bilayers.
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Affiliation(s)
- M Cócera
- Departamento de Tecnologías de Tensioactivos, Instituto de Investigaciones Químicas y Ambientales de Barcelona (I.I.Q.A.B.), Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas (C.S.I.C.) Calle Jorge Girona 18-26, 08034, Barcelona, Spain
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Octyl glucoside as a tool to induce structural modifications in the stratum corneum. Colloids Surf A Physicochem Eng Asp 2000. [DOI: 10.1016/s0927-7757(99)00524-5] [Citation(s) in RCA: 7] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/17/2022]
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Lopez O, Cócera M, Parra J, de la Maza A. Solubilization of stratum corneum lipid liposomes by C14-betaine/sodium dodecyl sulfate mixtures. Influence of the level of ceramides in the solubilization process. Colloids Surf A Physicochem Eng Asp 2000. [DOI: 10.1016/s0927-7757(99)00246-0] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 10/17/2022]
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31
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López O, Cócera M, Campos L, de la Maza A, Coderch L, Parra J. Use of wide and small angle X-ray diffraction to study the modifications in the stratum corneum induced by octyl glucoside. Colloids Surf A Physicochem Eng Asp 2000. [DOI: 10.1016/s0927-7757(99)00245-9] [Citation(s) in RCA: 11] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.4] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/16/2022]
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Lopez O, Cócera M, Parra JL, Coderch L, de la Maza A. Influence of ceramides in the solubilization of stratum corneum lipid liposomes by C(12)-betaine/sodium dodecyl sulfate mixtures. Int J Pharm 1999; 187:231-41. [PMID: 10502629 DOI: 10.1016/s0378-5173(99)00188-x] [Citation(s) in RCA: 7] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 10/18/2022]
Abstract
The solubilization of liposomes modeling the stratum corneum (SC) lipid composition and those obtained varying the proportion of ceramides by means of dodecyl betaine (C(12)-Bet)/sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) mixtures was studied. The surfactant/lipid molar ratios (Re) and the bilayer/aqueous phase partition coefficients (K) were determined by monitoring the changes in the static light scattering of the system during solubilization. The fact that the free surfactant concentration was always similar to its critical micelle concentration (CMC) indicates that the liposome solubilization was mainly ruled by the formation of mixed micelles. The mole fraction of the zwitterionic component (X(zwitter)) of 0.4 showed the lowest ability to saturate or solubilize liposomes, although exhibiting the highest degree of partitioning into liposomes. This X(zwitter) corresponded to the highest derivation of the CMCs of these mixtures (negative synergism) and to the highest reduction in the skin irritation with respect to the anionic component. Higher and lower proportion of ceramides in the mixture led to a fall and to a rise in both the activity and the partitioning of a specific surfactant mixture (X(zwitter)=0.4). This finding could be related to the recently reported dependences of the level of ceramides in skin and function barrier abnormalities. Comparison of the present Re and K values with those reported for phosphatidylcholine (PC) liposomes shows that, although SC liposomes were more resistant to the action of surfactant mixtures, the surfactant partitioning into SC bilayers was similar to that reported for PC ones in all cases.
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Affiliation(s)
- O Lopez
- Departamento de Tensioactivos, Centro de Investigación y Desarrollo (C.I.D.), Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas (C.S.I.C. ), Calle Jorge Girona 18-26, 08034, Barcelona, Spain
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Lopez O, Cócera M, de la Maza A. Influence of the level of ceramides on the permeability of stratum corneum lipid liposomes caused by a C14-alkyl betaine/sodium dodecyl sulfate mixture. Colloids Surf A Physicochem Eng Asp 1999. [DOI: 10.1016/s0927-7757(99)00092-8] [Citation(s) in RCA: 2] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.1] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/26/2022]
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López O, Cócera M, Wehrli E, Parra JL, de la Maza A. Solubilization of liposomes by sodium dodecyl sulfate: new mechanism based on the direct formation of mixed micelles. Arch Biochem Biophys 1999; 367:153-60. [PMID: 10395730 DOI: 10.1006/abbi.1999.1267] [Citation(s) in RCA: 40] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/22/2022]
Abstract
The vesicle-to-micelle structural transitions that occurred in the interaction of sodium dodecyl sulfate with phosphatidylcholine vesicles were studied at the equilibrium by means of dynamic light scattering (at different scattering angles) and freeze-fracture electron microscopy techniques. The incorporation of surfactant monomers in the bilayers resulted in an initial contraction of the mixed vesicles formed up to their saturation (size reduction of about 10%). Then, a progressive relaxation of these structures (growth from 170 to 225 nm) and a simultaneous formation of mixed micelles (particles of about 6 nm) occurred. Hence, in this interval "relaxed mixed vesicles" and mixed micelles coexisted in different proportions without formation of intermediate complex aggregates (bimodal size distribution curves). Freeze-fracture electron microscopy showed a direct formation of mixed micelles within the bilayer and their subsequent separation from the vesicle surface without formation of complex intermediate aggregates. This simple process progressed up to the complete vesicle solubilization.
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Affiliation(s)
- O López
- Centro de Investigación y Desarrollo, Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas, C/ Jordi Girona 18-26, Barcelona, 08034, Spain
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Lopez O, Cócera M, Parra JL. Influence of the Level of Cholesteryl Sulfate Present in Stratum Corneum Lipid Liposomes on Their Stability Against Triton X-100. J Colloid Interface Sci 1999; 215:183-189. [PMID: 10362488 DOI: 10.1006/jcis.1999.6265] [Citation(s) in RCA: 3] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.1] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/22/2022]
Abstract
The interaction of Triton X-100 (TX-100) with stratum corneum (SC) lipid liposomes varying the proportion of cholesteryl sulfate (Chol-sulf) was investigated. The surfactant/lipid molar ratios and the bilayer/aqueous phase partition coefficients were determined at sublytic level by monitoring the changes in the fluorescence intensity of liposomes due to the 5(6) carboxyfluorescein released from the interior of vesicles. The fact that the free surfactant concentration was always lower than the surfactant CMC indicates that permeability changes were mainly ruled by the action of surfactant monomers in all cases. The lowest surfactant ability to alter the permeability of SC liposomes and highest surfactant affinity with these bilayer structures was reached when the proportion of Chol-sulf in bilayers was 10%. Futhermore, the highest resistance of SC liposomes to be solubilized by TX-100 (via mixed micelle formation) also occurred at this Chol-sulf proportion, which corresponds to that existing in the intercellular SC lipids. These surfactant effects may be related to the reported dependencies between the level of Chol-sulf in the intercellular lipids and the abnormalities in the skin properties as the barrier function. Copyright 1999 Academic Press.
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Affiliation(s)
- O Lopez
- Centro de Investigación y Desarrollo (C.I.D.), Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas (C.S.I.C.), Calle Jorge Girona 18-26, Barcelona, 08034, Spain
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Cócera M, Lopez O, Coderch L, Parra JL, de la Maza A. Influence of the level of ceramides on the permeability of stratum corneum lipid liposomes caused by a C12-betaine/sodium dodecyl sulfate mixture. Int J Pharm 1999; 183:165-73. [PMID: 10361167 DOI: 10.1016/s0378-5173(99)00084-8] [Citation(s) in RCA: 11] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.4] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/16/2022]
Abstract
The sublytic interactions of a mixture of N-dodecyl-N, N-dimethylbetaine dodecyl betaine (C12-Bet)/sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) (mole fraction of the zwitterionic surfactant=0.6) with stratum corneum (SC) lipid liposomes varying the proportion of ceramides type III (Cer) were investigated. The surfactant/lipid molar ratios (Re) and the bilayer/aqueous phase partition coefficients (K) were determined by monitoring the changes in the fluorescence intensity of liposomes due to the 5(6) carboxyfluorescein (CF) released from the interior of vesicles. The fact that the free surfactant mixture concentration was always lower than its critical micelle concentration indicates that permeability changes were ruled by the action of surfactant monomers in all cases. Higher and lower Cer proportions than that of the SC lipids led to a fall and to a rise in the activity of the surfactant mixture on these bilayer structures. However, the surfactant partitioning into liposomes (or affinity with these bilayer structures) increased as the proportion of Cer increased up to the highest value was achieved for a Cer proportion similar to that in the SC lipids (about 40-45%). Thus, at low Cer proportions the ability of the surfactant mixture to alter the permeability of these bilayer structures was higher than that for liposomes approximating the SC lipid composition despite their reduced partitioning into liposomes. These findings are in agreement with the recently reported dependencies of the level of ceramides in skin lipids and function barrier abnormalities and could explain in part these dependencies.
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Affiliation(s)
- M Cócera
- Centro de Investigación y Desarrollo (C.I.D.), Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas (C.S.I.C.), Departamento de Tensioactivos, Calle Jorge Girona 18-26, 08034, Barcelona, Spain
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de la Maza A, Codech L, Lopez O, Parra JL, Sabes M, Guinea J. Ability of the exopolymer excreted by Pseudoalteromonas antarctica NF3, to coat liposomes and to protect these structures against octyl glucoside. JOURNAL OF BIOMATERIALS SCIENCE. POLYMER EDITION 1999; 10:557-72. [PMID: 10357266 DOI: 10.1163/156856299x00487] [Citation(s) in RCA: 4] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.2] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/19/2022]
Abstract
The ability of an exopolymer of glycoproteic character (GP) excreted by a new gram-negative specie Pseudoalteromonas antarctica NF3, to coat phosphatidylcholine (PC) liposomes and to protect these bilayers against the action of the nonionic surfactant octyl glucoside (OG) has been investigated. TEM micrographs of freeze-fractured liposome/GP aggregates reveal that the addition of GP to liposomes led to the formation of a covering structure (polymer adsorbed onto the bilayers) that tightly coated PC bilayers. The complete coating was already achieved when the proportion of GP assembled with liposomes was approximately 10% (wt% vs total PC). Higher GP amounts resulted in a growth of this coating structure which exhibited at the highest GP proportion in the system (31% of assembled GP) a multilayered structure. An increasing resistance of PC liposomes to be affected by OG both at sublytic and lytic levels occurred as the proportion of GP in the system rose; this protective effect being more effective when the proportion of assembled GP was 10-20% in weight. Thus, although a direct dependence was found between the growth of the enveloping structure and the resistance of the coated liposomes to be affected by OG, the best protection occurred when the proportion of assembled GP was about 10 wt%.
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Affiliation(s)
- A de la Maza
- Departamento de Tensioactivos, Centro de Investigación y Desarrollo, Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas, Barcelona, Spain
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Cócera M, Lopez O, Parra J, de la Maza A. Interaction of sodium dodecyl sulfate with stratum corneum lipid liposomes: influence of the level of cholesteryl sulfate on this process. Chem Phys Lipids 1999. [DOI: 10.1016/s0009-3084(99)00037-7] [Citation(s) in RCA: 2] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.1] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/30/2022]
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de la Maza A, Lopez O, Cócera M, Coderch L, Parra J. Alkyl sulfate surfactants as solubilizing agents of liposomes modeling the composition of the stratum corneum lipids. Colloids Surf A Physicochem Eng Asp 1999. [DOI: 10.1016/s0927-7757(98)00707-9] [Citation(s) in RCA: 6] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.2] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 10/16/2022]
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Interactions of oxyethylenated nonylphenols with liposomes mimicking the stratum corneum lipid composition. Colloids Surf A Physicochem Eng Asp 1998. [DOI: 10.1016/s0927-7757(98)00695-5] [Citation(s) in RCA: 6] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.2] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/15/2022]
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de la Maza A, Coderch L, Lopez O, Gonzalez P, Baucells J, Parra JL. Solubilization of model stratum corneum liposomes by quaternary ammonium surfactants. J SURFACTANTS DETERG 1998. [DOI: 10.1007/s11743-998-0047-x] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 12/01/2022]
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de la Maza A, Lopez O, Cocera M, Coderch L, Parra JL. Influence of the level of ceramides in the permeability of stratum corneum lipid liposomes caused by sodium dodecyl sulfate. Chem Phys Lipids 1998; 94:181-91. [PMID: 9779585 DOI: 10.1016/s0009-3084(98)00051-6] [Citation(s) in RCA: 11] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.4] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 10/16/2022]
Abstract
The role played by the ceramides in the sublytic interactions of sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) with liposomes modeling the stratum corneum (SC) lipid composition was studied. The surfactant/lipid molar ratios (Re) and the bilayer/aqueous phase partition coefficients (k) were determined by monitoring the changes in the fluorescence intensity of liposomes due to the 5(6) carboxyfluorescein (CF) released from the interior of vesicles. The presence in liposomes of higher and lower ceramide proportions than that existing in the SC lipids led to a fall and to a rise in the sublytic activity of SDS on these structures. However, the SDS partitioning into liposomes (or affinity with these bilayer structures) increased as the proportion of Cer increased up to achieve almost a constant value for a Cer proportion similar to that in the SC lipids (about 40%). Thus, at low Cer proportions the ability of SDS molecules to alter these bilayer structures was higher than that for liposomes approximating the SC lipid composition despite their reduced partitioning into liposomes. These findings are in agreement with the recently reported dependencies of the level of ceramides in skin lipids and function barrier abnormalities and could explain in part these dependencies. The fact that the free surfactant concentration needed to achieve the two interaction levels investigated was lower than the surfactant critical micellar concentration (CMC) indicates that permeability alterations were mainly ruled by the action of surfactant monomers, regardless of the liposome lipid composition.
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Affiliation(s)
- A de la Maza
- Departamento de Tensioactivos, Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas (C.S.I.C.), Barcelona, Spain
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Permeability changes in liposomes modeling the stratum corneum lipid composition due to C12-alkyl betaine/sodium dodecyl sulfate mixtures. Int J Pharm 1998. [DOI: 10.1016/s0378-5173(98)00153-7] [Citation(s) in RCA: 7] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/20/2022]
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Zellmer S, Zimmermann I, Selle C, Sternberg B, Pohle W, Lasch J. Physicochemical characterisation of human stratum corneum lipid liposomes. Chem Phys Lipids 1998; 94:97-108. [PMID: 9721632 DOI: 10.1016/s0009-3084(98)00046-2] [Citation(s) in RCA: 13] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/17/2022]
Abstract
Liposomes were prepared from an extract of all human stratum corneum lipids (hSCL) and characterised in terms of temperature and the presence of Ca2+ by different physicochemical methods. Vesicle aggregation and lateral phase separation were induced by divalent cations with Ca2+ being more efficient than Mg2+. At 24.1 degrees C, i.e. well below physiological temperatures the suspensions consisted of a lamellar phase and crystalline cholesterol. At and above 37 degrees C, this cholesterol surplus was dissolved in the hSCL membranes. However, melting of the hSCL was not completed up to 60 degrees C. The presence of Ca2+ (> or = 9 mM) induced lateral phase separation and fusion of vesicles into extended multilamellar lipid sheets (MLLS) at and above 32.5 degrees C. Upon a subsequent cooling cycle recrystallisation of cholesterol occurred within the MLLS. Finally, membrane mixing of hSCL liposomes with vesicles made of synthetic lipids was investigated. No mixing was observed between either of DPPE/oleic acid, DPPC/DPPE, DPPC/lyso-PC and hSCL liposomes. Mixtures of DPPC/cholesterol hemisuccinate showed a temperature-dependent membrane mixing behaviour, whilst hSCL liposomes and phosphatidylserine liposomes fused temperature-independently with hSCL liposomes.
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Affiliation(s)
- S Zellmer
- Institut für Physiologische Chemie, Martin-Luther-Universität Halle-Wittenberg, Germany.
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de la Maza A, Lopez O, Baucells J, Gonzalez P, Parra JL. Solubilization of phosphatidylcholine unilamellar liposomes caused by alkyl glucosides. J SURFACTANTS DETERG 1998. [DOI: 10.1007/s11743-998-0039-x] [Citation(s) in RCA: 3] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.1] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/30/2022]
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de la Maza A, Parra J, Congregado F, Bozal N, Guinea J. Interaction of the glycoprotein excreted by Pseudoalteromonas antarctica NF3 with phosphatidylcholine liposomes. Colloids Surf A Physicochem Eng Asp 1998. [DOI: 10.1016/s0927-7757(98)00212-x] [Citation(s) in RCA: 4] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.1] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 10/18/2022]
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de la Maza A, Coderch L, Lopez O, Parra J. Solubilization of liposomes modelling the stratum corneum lipid composition by betaine-type zwitterionic surfactants. Colloids Surf A Physicochem Eng Asp 1998. [DOI: 10.1016/s0927-7757(97)00353-1] [Citation(s) in RCA: 3] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.1] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/27/2022]
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de la Maza A, Coderch L, Gonzalez P, Parra JL. Subsolubilizing alterations caused by alkyl glucosides in phosphatidylcholine liposomes. J Control Release 1998; 52:159-68. [PMID: 9685946 DOI: 10.1016/s0168-3659(97)00205-8] [Citation(s) in RCA: 23] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.9] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 02/08/2023]
Abstract
The subsolubilizing alterations caused by a series of alkyl glucosides (alkyl chain lengths ranging from C8 to C12) in unilamellar phosphatidylcholine (PC) liposomes were investigated. The surfactant to phospholipid molar ratios (RE) and the normalized bilayer/aqueous phase partition coefficients (K) were determined by monitoring the increase of the fluorescence intensity of liposome suspensions due to the 5(6)-carboxyfluorescein (CF) released from the interior of vesicles to the bulk aqueous phase. Given that the free surfactant concentrations was always lower than the critical micelle concentration (CMC) of the surfactant tested we may assume that the surfactant-liposome interactions were mainly ruled by the action of surfactant monomers. In general terms, the decrease in the surfactant alkyl chain length (or the rise in the surfactant CMC) resulted in an increase in the ability of these surfactants to alter the permeability of liposomes and, inversely, in an abrupt decrease in their affinity with these bilayers structures. The overall balance of these opposite tendencies shows that at the two interaction levels studied (50 and 100% of CF release) the nonyl and the octyl glucoside showed, respectively, the highest ability to alter the release of the CF trapped in bilayers (lowest RE values), whereas the dodecyl glucoside showed the highest degree of partitioning into liposomes or affinity with these bilayer structures (highest K values).
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Affiliation(s)
- A de la Maza
- Departamento de Tensioactivos, C.I.D-C.S.I.C., Barcelona, Spain
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Maza A, Coderch L, Lopez O, Baucells J, Parra JL. Permeability changes in liposomes modeling the stratum corneum lipid composition caused by surfactants. Colloid Polym Sci 1997. [DOI: 10.1007/bf01188949] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/30/2022]
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