Investigation of Lipid Oxidation in High- and Low-Lipid-Containing Topical Skin Formulations

Applications of mass spectrometry in cosmetic analysis: An overview

Mass spectrometry (MS) is a crucial tool in cosmetic analysis. It is widely used for ingredient screening, quality control, risk monitoring, authenticity verification, and efficacy evaluation. However, due to the diversity of cosmetic products and the rapid development of MS-based analytical methods, the relevant literature needs a more systematic collation of information on this subject to unravel the true potential of MS in cosmetic analysis. Herein, an overview of the role of MS in cosmetic analysis over the past two decades is presented. The currently used sample preparation methods, ionization techniques, and types of mass analyzers are demonstrated in detail. In addition, a brief perspective on the future development of MS for cosmetic analysis is provided.

Oxidative stability of cod liver oil in the presence of herring roe phospholipids

The aim of this research was to investigate the effect of herring roe phospholipids (PLs) on the oxidative stability of cod liver oil during storage. The effect of PLs on the oxidative stability of cod liver oil was assessed in terms of peroxide value, free fatty acids, secondary oxidation products and pyrrolisation. The results show that the PV was lower in cod liver oil containing PLs (P < 0.05) than in the control without PLs. Benzaldehyde, 2,5-dimethylpyrazine, 2-methyl-2-pentenal, 1-penten-3-ol and 3-methylbutanal were the main volatiles. In addition, significant pyrrolisation was observed after 28 days when PLs were added to cod liver oil. The results suggested that cod liver oil with dispersed PLs was oxidized during storage followed by non-enzymatic browning reactions. The findings indicated that the ratio between pyrroles formed and α-tocopherol may influence the formation of new peroxides and secondary oxidation products.

Evaluation of lipid oxidation mechanisms in beverages and cosmetics via analysis of lipid hydroperoxide isomers

Understanding of lipid oxidation mechanisms (e.g., auto-oxidation and photo-oxidation) in foods and cosmetics is deemed essential to maintain the quality of such products. In this study, the oxidation mechanisms in foods and cosmetics were evaluated through analysis of linoleic acid hydroperoxide (LAOOH) and linoleic acid ethyl ester hydroperoxide (ELAOOH) isomers. Based on our previous method for analysis of LAOOH isomers, in this study, we developed a new HPLC-MS/MS method that enables analysis of ELAOOH isomers. The HPLC-MS/MS methods to analyze LAOOH and ELOOH isomers were applied to food (liquor) and cosmetic (skin cream) samples. As a result, LAOOH and ELAOOH isomers specific to photo-oxidation, and ELAOOH isomers characteristic to auto-oxidation were detected in some marketed liquor samples, suggesting that lipid oxidation of marketed liquor proceeds by both photo- and auto-oxidation during the manufacturing process and/or sales. In contrast, because only LAOOH and ELAOOH isomers specific to auto-oxidation were detected in skin cream stored under dark at different temperatures (-5 °C-40 °C) for different periods (2-15 months), auto-oxidation was considered to be the major oxidation mechanism in such samples. Therefore, our HPLC-MS/MS methods appear to be powerful tools to elucidate lipid oxidation mechanisms in food and cosmetic products.

Exploring the possibility of predicting long-term oxidative stability in prototype skincare formulations using various lipid oxidation initiators

OBJECTIVE

The purpose of this study was to identify an effective lipid oxidation initiator which could predict, within 1 month, the long-term oxidative stability of a prototype skincare formulation. The main purpose was to find a potential initiator not to assess oxidation stability of the formulations.

METHODS

Four initiators (below) were examined in three steps: Reaction kinetics using a Clark electrode (Oxygraph); Effect of adding an initiator on the product's physical and oxidative stability in prototype skincare formulations by visual observation, peroxide value and headspace GC-MS determination of volatile oxidation products; and Ability to differentiate unstable vs. stable prototype creams by initiator addition. The four initiators explored were: FeCl₂ /H₂ O₂ , FeCl₃ /ascorbic acid, 2,2'-Azobis(2,4-dimethylvaleronitrile) (AMVN) and 2,2'-Azobis(2-methylpropionamidine) dihydrochloride (AAPH) RESULTS: In Oxygraph, the initiator systems FeCl₂ /H₂ O₂ and FeCl₃ /ascorbic acid were good accelerators of oxygen consumption. The addition of FeCl₂ /H₂ O₂ to prototype formulations did not affect the physical stability. However, the addition of FeCl₃ /ascorbic acid to prototype formulations resulted in phase separation and FeCl₃ /ascorbic acid was therefore deemed unusable. Moreover, the addition of AAPH or AMVN resulted in an increased and decreased viscosity respectively. In the oxidation stability study, peroxide value increased significantly when AMVN was added. However, the peroxide value remained low for the other initiators and the control (no initiator). The secondary volatile oxidation product, butanal, increased most with the FeCl₂ /H₂ O₂ addition. Three out of the four initiators did not have the ability to rank the stable and unstable formulations in accordance with the result obtained for volatile oxidation products after 42 days of storage at 20°C of formulations without initiator. Only, FeCl₂ /H₂ O₂ was able to rank the formulations in accordance with the oxidative stability observed for volatile oxidation products after 42 days of storage.

CONCLUSION

FeCl₂ /H₂ O₂ showed potential as an initiator to predict the oxidative stability of skincare formulations, but more studies are needed to confirm the result in a broader range of products over a longer time.