Night Cream Containing Melatonin, Carnosine and Helichrysum italicum Extract Helps Reduce Skin Reactivity and Signs of Photodamage: Ex Vivo and Clinical Studies

Clinical Studies Using Topical Melatonin

Melatonin is ubiquitously present in all animals and plants, where it exerts a variety of physiological activities thanks to its antioxidant properties and its key role as the first messenger of extracellular signaling functions. Most of the clinical studies on melatonin refer to its widespread oral use as a dietary supplement to improve sleep. A far smaller number of articles describe the clinical applications of topical melatonin to treat or prevent skin disorders by exploiting its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. This review focuses on the clinical studies in which melatonin was applied on the skin as a photoprotective, anti-aging, or hair growth-promoting agent. The methodologies and results of such studies are discussed to provide an overall picture of the state of the art in this intriguing field of research. The clinical studies in which melatonin was applied on the skin before exposure to radiation (UV, sunlight, and high-energy beams) were all characterized by an appropriate design (randomized, double-blind, and placebo-controlled) and strongly support its clinical efficacy in preventing or reducing skin damage such as dermatitis, erythema, and sunburn. Most of the studies examined in this review do not provide a clear demonstration of the efficacy of topical melatonin as a skin anti-aging or as a hair growth-promoting agent owing to limitations in their design and/or to the use of melatonin combined with extra active ingredients, except for one trial that suggests a possible beneficial role of melatonin in treating some forms of alopecia in women. Further research efforts are required to reach definitive conclusions concerning the actual benefits of topical melatonin to counteract skin aging and hair loss.

Electrospun Nanofibers Encapsulated with Natural Products: A Novel Strategy to Counteract Skin Aging

The skin is the primary tissue affected by wounds and aging, significantly impacting its protective function. Natural products are widely used in cosmetics, representing a new approach to preventing age-related damage. Nanomedicine combines nanotechnology and traditional treatments to create innovative drugs. The main targets of nanotechnological approaches are wound healing, regeneration, and rejuvenation of skin tissue. The skin barrier is not easily permeable, and the creation of modern nanodevices is a way to improve the passive penetration of substances. In this study, Helichrysum italicum oil (HO) was combined with different types of electrospun nanofibers to study their protective activity on the skin and to evaluate their future application for topical treatments. In the present research, we used biodegradable polymers, including polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) and polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), which were characterized by a scanning electron microscope (SEM). All results show a positive trend in cell proliferation and viability of human skin stem cells (SSCs) and BJ fibroblasts pre-treated with combined nanofibers and then exposed to UV stress. Gene expression analysis revealed the activation of a molecular rejuvenation program in SSCs treated with functionalized nanofibers before UV exposure. Understanding the mechanisms involved in skin changes during aging allows for the future application of nanomaterials combined with HO directly to the patients.

Hydrolat of Helichrysum italicum promotes tissue regeneration during wound healing

Wound healing is a dynamic process involving different cell types with distinct roles according to the stages of healing. Fibroblasts and stem cells actively participate in tissue regeneration. A proper stimulation could contribute to enhance wound healing process-es. Helichrysum italicum (H. italicum) is a medical plant well described for its pharmacological, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory activities. Aim of the present work was to examine the effect of the hydrolat derivate from H. italicum on stem cells isolated from skin and fibroblasts in vitro in presence or absence of tissue damage. The viability and proliferation of all cell types cultured in dif-ferent conditions were analyzed by MTT and BrdU assays. Cell proliferation after wound was analyzed with scratch test. Also, the expression of the main genes involved in tissue repair was evaluated by RT-qPCR analysis. Here we describe the capability of hy-drolat of H. italicum to promote tissue regeneration after scratch test both in stem cells and in fibroblasts. Moreover, the gene ex-pression analysis revealed that, hydrolat of H. italicum is also able to enhance stemness related. In conclusion our results are en-couraging, highlighting novel regenerative properties of hydrolat of H. italicum and paving the way for future application of this wasting product in accelerating wound healing.

Approaches in line with human physiology to prevent skin aging

Skin aging is a complex process that is influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors that impact the skin's protective functions and overall health. As the body's outermost layer, the skin plays a critical role in defending it against external threats, regulating body temperature, providing tactile sensation, and synthesizing vitamin D for bone health, immune function, and body homeostasis. However, as individuals age, the skin undergoes structural and functional changes, leading to impairments in these essential functions. In contemporary society, there is an increasing recognition of skin health as a significant indicator of overall wellbeing, resulting in a growing demand for anti-aging products and treatments. However, these products often have limitations in terms of safety, effective skin penetration, and potential systemic complications. To address these concerns, researchers are now focusing on approaches that are safer and better aligned with physiology of the skin. These approaches include adopting a proper diet and maintaining healthy lifestyle habits, the development of topical treatments that synchronize with the skin's circadian rhythm, utilizing endogenous antioxidant molecules, such as melatonin and natural products like polyphenols. Moreover, exploring alternative compounds for sun protection, such as natural ultraviolet (UV)-absorbing compounds, can offer safer options for shielding the skin from harmful radiation. Researchers are currently exploring the potential of adipose-derived stem cells, cell-free blood cell secretome (BCS) and other endogenous compounds for maintaining skin health. These approaches are more secure and more effective alternatives which are in line with human physiology to tackle skin aging. By emphasizing these innovative strategies, it is possible to develop effective treatments that not only slow down the skin aging process but also align better with the natural physiology of the skin. This review will focus on recent research in this field, highlighting the potential of these treatments as being safer and more in line with the skin's physiology in order to combat the signs of aging.

Environmental Air Pollutants Affecting Skin Functions with Systemic Implications

The increase in air pollution worldwide represents an environmental risk factor that has global implications for the health of humans worldwide. The skin of billions of people is exposed to a mixture of harmful air pollutants, which can affect its physiology and are responsible for cutaneous damage. Some polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons are photoreactive and could be activated by ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Therefore, such UVR exposure would enhance their deleterious effects on the skin. Air pollution also affects vitamin D synthesis by reducing UVB radiation, which is essential for the production of vitamin D3, tachysterol, and lumisterol derivatives. Ambient air pollutants, photopollution, blue-light pollution, and cigarette smoke compromise cutaneous structural integrity, can interact with human skin microbiota, and trigger or exacerbate a range of skin diseases through various mechanisms. Generally, air pollution elicits an oxidative stress response on the skin that can activate the inflammatory responses. The aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) can act as a sensor for small molecules such as air pollutants and plays a crucial role in responses to (photo)pollution. On the other hand, targeting AhR/Nrf2 is emerging as a novel treatment option for air pollutants that induce or exacerbate inflammatory skin diseases. Therefore, AhR with downstream regulatory pathways would represent a crucial signaling system regulating the skin phenotype in a Yin and Yang fashion defined by the chemical nature of the activating factor and the cellular and tissue context.

Whole transcriptome expression array analysis of human colon fibroblasts culture treated with Helichrysum italicum supports its use in traditional medicine

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Helichrysum italicum (HI) is a Mediterranean plant with well-reported use in traditional medicine for a wide range of applications, including digestive and liver disorders, intestinal parasitic infections, wound healing, stomach ache and asthma. However, little is known about the global mechanism behind its pleiotropic activity.

AIM OF THE STUDY

The aim of this study was to explain the mechanism behind the previously demonstrated effects of HI and to justify its use in traditional medicine.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A microarray-based transcriptome analysis was used to discover the global transcriptional alterations in primary colon fibroblasts after exposure to HI infusion for 6 h and 24 h. In addition, quantitative real-time PCR was used to verify the microarray results.

RESULTS

Altogether we identified 217 differentially expressed genes compared to non-treated cells, and only 8 were common to both treatments. Gene ontology analysis revealed that 24 h treatment with HI infusion altered the expression of genes involved in cytoskeletal rearrangement and cell growth, whereas pathway analysis further showed the importance of interleukin signaling and transcriptional regulation by TP53. For the 6 h treatment only the process of hemostasis appeared in the results of both enrichment analyses. In functional assays, HI infusion increased cell migration and decreased blood clotting and prothrombin time.

CONCLUSIONS

With the careful evaluation of the role of individual genes, especially SERPING1, ARHGAP1, IL33 and CDKN1A, represented in the enriched pathways and processes, we propose the main mode of HI action, which is wound healing. In addition to its indirect prevention of diseases resulting from the impaired barrier integrity, HI also effects inflammation and metabolic processes directly, as it regulates genes such as LRPPRC, LIPA, ABCA12, PRKAR1A and ANXA6.

Revisiting the role of melatonin in human melanocyte physiology: A skin context perspective

The evolutionarily ancient methoxyindoleamine, melatonin, has long perplexed investigators by its versatility of functions and mechanisms of action, which include the regulation of vertebrate pigmentation. Although first discovered through its potent skin-lightening effects in amphibians, melatonin's role in human skin and hair follicle pigmentation and its impact on melanocyte physiology remain unclear. Synthesizing our limited current understanding of this role, we specifically examine its impact on melanogenesis, oxidative biology, mitochondrial function, melanocyte senescence, and pigmentation-related clock gene activity, with emphasis on human skin, yet without ignoring instructive pointers from nonhuman species. Given the strict dependence of melanocyte functions on the epithelial microenvironment, we underscore that melanocyte responses to melatonin are best interrogated in a physiological tissue context. Current evidence suggests that melatonin and some of its metabolites inhibit both, melanogenesis (via reducing tyrosinase activity) and melanocyte proliferation by stimulating melatonin membrane receptors (MT1, MT2). We discuss whether putative melanogenesis-inhibitory effects of melatonin may occur via activation of Nrf2-mediated PI3K/AKT signaling, estrogen receptor-mediated and/or melanocortin-1 receptor- and cAMP-dependent signaling, and/or via melatonin-regulated changes in peripheral clock genes that regulate human melanogenesis, namely Bmal1 and Per1. Melatonin and its metabolites also accumulate in melanocytes where they exert net cyto- and senescence-protective as well as antioxidative effects by operating as free radical scavengers, stimulating the synthesis and activity of ROS scavenging enzymes and other antioxidants, promoting DNA repair, and enhancing mitochondrial function. We argue that it is clinically and biologically important to definitively clarify whether melanocyte cell culture-based observations translate into melatonin-induced pigmentary changes in a physiological tissue context, that is, in human epidermis and hair follicles ex vivo, and are confirmed by clinical trial results. After defining major open questions in this field, we close by suggesting how to begin answering them in clinically relevant, currently available preclinical in situ research models.

Cosmeceutical Therapy: Engaging the Repercussions of UVR Photoaging on the Skin's Circadian Rhythm

Sunlight is an important factor in regulating the central circadian rhythm, including the modulation of our sleep/wake cycles. Sunlight had also been discovered to have a prominent influence on our skin's circadian rhythm. Overexposure or prolonged exposure to the sun can cause skin photodamage, such as the formation of irregular pigmentation, collagen degradation, DNA damage, and even skin cancer. Hence, this review will be looking into the detrimental effects of sunlight on our skin, not only at the aspect of photoaging but also at its impact on the skin's circadian rhythm. The growing market trend of natural-product-based cosmeceuticals as also caused us to question their potential to modulate the skin's circadian rhythm. Questions about how the skin's circadian rhythm could counteract photodamage and how best to maximize its biopotential will be discussed in this article. These discoveries regarding the skin's circadian rhythm have opened up a completely new level of understanding of our skin's molecular mechanism and may very well aid cosmeceutical companies, in the near future, to develop better products that not only suppress photoaging but remain effective and relevant throughout the day.

Effects of Salicornia-Based Skin Cream Application on Healthy Humans’ Experimental Model of Pain and Itching

Halophyte plants are salt-tolerant and are acclimated for growth in saline soils such as along coastal areas. Among the halophytes, the Salicornia species have been used as both folk medicine and functional food for many years due to their high levels of bioactive compounds with supposed anti-inflammatory and antioxidative effects. However, the properties of Salicornia bioactive extracts on pain and itching still remain unclear. In this study, 30 healthy volunteers were randomized to treatments with 10% Salicornia-based cream or placebo cream for 24 or 48 h. On day 0, and 24 or 48 h post cream application, cold/heat detection and pain thresholds, mechanical pain thresholds and sensitivity, trans-epidermal water loss, histamine- and cowhage-evoked itch, and micro-vascular reactivity (neurogenic inflammation) were assessed to evaluate the analgesic, anti-pruritogenic and vasomotor effects. Skin permeability was reduced in the Salicornia-treated area for 48 h compared with 24 h application (p-value < 0.05). After 48 h of application, a decrease in mechanical-evoked itching (hyperkinesis) compared with 24 h treatment (p-value < 0.05) and increased warm detection and heat pain thresholds (p-value < 0.05) was found. Histamine-induced neurogenic inflammation showed a significant reduction in the cream-treated areas after 48 h compared with 24 h (p-value < 0.05). The results of this study indicate the overall inhibitory effect of Salicornia on hyperkinesis (mechanically evoked itch), the analgesic effect on thermal sensation, and modulation of the skin barrier architecture. Further studies are needed for the assessment of the long-term effects.

Photoprotection by clothing: A review

Clothing is recognized by leading health agencies as a primary method to protect against the harmful effects of photodamage caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation and visible light. The photoprotective capacity of clothing is commonly measured as the ultraviolet protective factor (UPF). While the technology driving photoprotective clothing has been well-established, there continues to be efforts to discover new materials to improve the UPF of clothing. Here, we show increased Google searches for photoprotective clothing over the last decade, suggesting a high level of public interest in photoprotective clothing. In addition, we investigate the frequency of UPF-graded photoprotective clothing sold by large retail stores featured in Fortune 1000. We review factors that alter the UPF of clothing and describe emerging textile technologies used to increase clothing's photoprotective capacity. Finally, we compare how photoprotective clothing is regulated among different countries, the importance of photoprotective clothing in occupational health, and research in visible light and clothing photoprotection.

Protective Role of Melatonin and Its Metabolites in Skin Aging

The skin, being the largest organ in the human body, is exposed to the environment and suffers from both intrinsic and extrinsic aging factors. The skin aging process is characterized by several clinical features such as wrinkling, loss of elasticity, and rough-textured appearance. This complex process is accompanied with phenotypic and functional changes in cutaneous and immune cells, as well as structural and functional disturbances in extracellular matrix components such as collagens and elastin. Because skin health is considered one of the principal factors representing overall “well-being” and the perception of “health” in humans, several anti-aging strategies have recently been developed. Thus, while the fundamental mechanisms regarding skin aging are known, new substances should be considered for introduction into dermatological treatments. Herein, we describe melatonin and its metabolites as potential “aging neutralizers”. Melatonin, an evolutionarily ancient derivative of serotonin with hormonal properties, is the main neuroendocrine secretory product of the pineal gland. It regulates circadian rhythmicity and also exerts anti-oxidative, anti-inflammatory, immunomodulatory, and anti-tumor capacities. The intention of this review is to summarize changes within skin aging, research advances on the molecular mechanisms leading to these changes, and the impact of the melatoninergic anti-oxidative system controlled by melatonin and its metabolites, targeting the prevention or reversal of skin aging.

Hyperpigmentation: Looking beyond hydroquinone

Hyperpigmentation is the most common complaint in the age group 40-45 years, seeking consultation for skin disorders. Hydroquinone is a commonly used depigmenting agent in clinical practice for treating hyperpigmentation. Prolonged use of hydroquinone has been associated with cancer risk and exogenous ochronosis. The CARES (The Coronavirus Aid, Relief, and Economic Security Act) Act of 2020 has instituted significant changes to hydroquinone containing OTC (over the counter) products, and consequently, many hydroquinone-based OTC products had to be withdrawn from the market. Henceforth, products containing hydroquinone would need US Food and Drug Administration approval via new drug application pathways for commercialization. Alternative treatment options to hydroquinone in clinical practice are reviewed in this paper with regard to their safety and efficacy vis a vis hydroquinone. Also, new potential treatment options such as thiamidol, Polypodium leucotomos, and glutathione are discussed. The review shows that these alternative depigmenting agents can be rationally combined to achieve desired treatment goals in the management of hyperpigmentation.

Enhanced Skin Performance of Emulgel vs. Cream as Systems for Topical Delivery of Herbal Actives (Immortelle Extract and Hemp Oil)

Immortelle, as rich source of chlorogenic acid and the phloroglucinol alpha-pyrone compound arzanol, possesses anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, affects cell regeneration, and has positive effect on many skin conditions. Hemp oil, characterized by a favorable omega-6 to omega-3 ratio, as well as an abundance of essential fatty acids and vitamin E, participates in immunoregulation and also act as an anti-inflammatory. In the present study, we examined the effect on the skin of creams and emulgels with immortelle extract and hemp oil, by comparing them to placebo samples and a non-treated control. A long-term in vivo study of biophysical skin characteristics, which lasted for 30 days, was conducted on 25 healthy human volunteers. Measured parameters were electrical capacitance of the stratum corneum, trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin pH and erythema index. Further, a sensory study was carried out in which the panelists had to choose descriptive terms for sensory attributes in questionnaire. The results showed that application of all preparations led to increase of skin hydration and TEWL reduction, while the skin was not irritated, and its normal pH was not disrupted. This study also showed importance of the carrier. Not only were emulgels described by panelists as preparations with better sensory properties, there was a significant difference between the skin hydration effect of emulgel with immortelle extract and hemp oil compared to the placebo emulgel, which was not the case with creams. Such findings indicated enhanced delivery of herbal active substances from emulgel compared to the cream.

A Review and Evaluation of the Data Supporting Internal Use of Helichrysum italicum

Helichrysum italicum is a Mediterranean plant with various pharmacological activities. Despite extensive reports on the bioactivity of the plant, its clinically studied applications have not yet been reviewed. The aim of our study was to gather information on the internal use of H. italicum and its bioactive constituents to determine its efficacy and safety for human use. We reviewed research articles that have not been previously presented in this context and analyzed relevant clinical studies with H. italicum. Cochranelibrary.com revealed six eligible clinical trials with H. italicum that examined indications for pain management, cough, and mental exhaustion. Although the efficacy of H. italicum has been demonstrated both in in vitro tests and in humans, it is difficult to attribute results from clinical trials to H. italicum alone, as it has usually not been tested as the sole component. On the other hand, clinical trials provide positive information on the safety profile since no adverse effects have been reported. We conclude that H. italicum is safe to use internally, while new clinical studies with H. italicum as a single component are needed to prove its efficacy. Based on the recent trend in H. italicum research, further studies are to be expected.

Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation

The “modern” cosmetology industry is focusing on research devoted to discovering novel neurocosmetic functional ingredients that could improve the interactions between the skin and the nervous system. Many cosmetic companies have started to formulate neurocosmetic products that exhibit their activity on the cutaneous nervous system by affecting the skin’s neuromediators through different mechanisms of action. This review aims to clarify the definition of neurocosmetics, and to describe the features of some functional ingredients and products available on the market, with a look at the regulatory aspect. The attention is devoted to neurocosmetic ingredients for combating skin stress, explaining the stress pathways, which are also correlated with skin aging. “Neuro-relaxing” anti-aging ingredients derived from plant extracts and neurocosmetic strategies to combat inflammatory responses related to skin stress are presented. Afterwards, the molecular basis of sensitive skin and the suitable neurocosmetic ingredients to improve this problem are discussed. With the aim of presenting the major application of Botox-like ingredients as the first neurocosmetics on the market, skin aging is also introduced, and its theory is presented. To confirm the efficacy of the cosmetic products on the market, the concept of cosmetic claims is discussed.