Tretinoin emollient cream: a new therapy for photodamaged skin

Cosmetic retinoid use in photoaged skin: A review of the compounds, their use and mechanisms of action

The inevitable attrition of skin due to ultraviolet radiation, termed photoaging, can be partially restored by treatment with retinoid compounds. Photoaged skin in lightly pigmented individuals, clinically presents with the appearance of wrinkles, increased laxity, and hyper- and hypopigmentation. Underlying these visible signs of ageing are histological features such as epidermal thinning, dermal-epidermal junction flattening, solar elastosis and loss of the dermal fibrillin microfibrillar network, fibrillar collagen and glycosaminoglycans. Retinoid compounds are comprised of three main generations with the first generation (all-trans retinoic acid, retinol, retinaldehyde and retinyl esters) primarily used for the clinical and cosmetic treatment of photoaging, with varying degrees of efficacy, tolerance and stability. All-trans retinoic acid is considered the 'gold standard' for skin rejuvenation; however, it is a prescription-only product largely confined to clinical use. Therefore, retinoid derivatives are readily incorporated into cosmeceutical formulations. The literature reported in this review suggests that retinol, retinyl esters and retinaldehyde that are used in many cosmeceutical products, are efficacious, safe and well-tolerated. Once in the skin, retinoids utilize a complex signalling pathway that promotes remodelling of photoaged epidermis and dermis and leads to the improvement of the cutaneous signs of photoaging.

Retinoids in the treatment of photoageing: A histological study of topical retinoid efficacy in black skin

BACKGROUND

Photoageing describes complex cutaneous changes that occur due to chronic exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR). The 'gold standard' for the treatment of photoaged white skin is all-trans retinoic acid (ATRA); however, cosmetic retinol (ROL) has also proven efficacious. Recent work has identified that black skin is susceptible to photoageing, characterized by disintegration of fibrillin-rich microfibrils (FRMs) at the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ). However, the impact of topical retinoids for repair of black skin has not been well investigated.

OBJECTIVES

To determine the potential of retinoids to repair photoaged black skin.

METHODS

An exploratory intervention study was performed using an in vivo, short-term patch test protocol. Healthy but photoaged black volunteers (>45 years) were recruited to the study, and participant extensor forearms were occluded with either 0.025% ATRA (n = 6; 4-day application due to irritancy) or ROL (12-day treatment protocol for a cosmetic) at concentrations of 0.3% (n = 6) or 1% (n = 6). Punch biopsies from occluded but untreated control sites and retinoid-treated sites were processed for histological analyses of epidermal characteristics, melanin distribution and dermal remodelling.

RESULTS

Treatment with ATRA and ROL induced significant acanthosis (all p < 0.001) accompanied by a significant increase in keratinocyte proliferation (Ki67; all p < 0.01), dispersal of epidermal melanin and restoration of the FRMs at the DEJ (all p < 0.01), compared to untreated control.

CONCLUSIONS

This study confirms that topical ATRA has utility for the repair of photoaged black skin and that ROL induces comparable effects on epidermal and dermal remodelling, albeit over a longer timeframe. The effects of topical retinoids on black photoaged skin are similar to those reported for white photoaged skin and suggest conserved biology in relation to repair of UVR-induced damage. Further investigation of topical retinoid efficacy in daily use is warranted for black skin.

Skin ageing and topical rejuvenation strategies

Skin ageing is a complex process involving the additive effects of skin's interaction with its external environment, predominantly chronic sun exposure, upon a background of time-dependent intrinsic ageing. Skin health and beauty is considered one of the principal factors perceived to represent overall 'health and wellbeing'; thus, the demand for skin rejuvenation strategies has rapidly increased, with a worldwide annual expenditure expected to grow from $US24.6 billion to around $US44.5 billion by 2030 (https://www.databridgemarketresearch.com/reports/global-facial-rejuvenation-market). Skin rejuvenation can be achieved in several ways, ranging from laser and device-based treatments to chemical peels and injectables; however, topical skin care regimes are a mainstay treatment for ageing skin and all patients seeking skin rejuvenation can benefit from this relatively low-risk intervention. While the most efficacious topical rejuvenation treatment is application of tretinoin (all-trans retinoic acid) - a prescription-only medicine considered to be the clinical 'gold standard' - a hybrid category of 'cosmeceutical' products at the midpoint of the spectrum of cosmetics and pharmaceutical has emerged. This article reviews the clinical manifestations of skin ageing and the available topical treatments for skin rejuvenation, including retinoids, peptides and antioxidants.

Skin aging from mechanisms to interventions: focusing on dermal aging

Skin aging is a multifaceted process that involves intrinsic and extrinsic mechanisms that lead to various structural and physiological changes in the skin. Intrinsic aging is associated with programmed aging and cellular senescence, which are caused by endogenous oxidative stress and cellular damage. Extrinsic aging is the result of environmental factors, such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation and pollution, and leads to the production of reactive oxygen species, ultimately causing DNA damage and cellular dysfunction. In aged skin, senescent cells accumulate and contribute to the degradation of the extracellular matrix, which further contributes to the aging process. To combat the symptoms of aging, various topical agents and clinical procedures such as chemical peels, injectables, and energy-based devices have been developed. These procedures address different symptoms of aging, but to devise an effective anti-aging treatment protocol, it is essential to thoroughly understand the mechanisms of skin aging. This review provides an overview of the mechanisms of skin aging and their significance in the development of anti-aging treatments.

Timeline of the Development of Skin-Lightening Active Ingredients in Japan

Japanese pharmaceutical cosmetics, often referred to as quasi-drugs, contain skin-lightening active ingredients formulated to prevent sun-induced pigment spots and freckles. Their mechanisms of action include suppressing melanin production in melanocytes and promoting epidermal growth to eliminate melanin more rapidly. For example, arbutin and rucinol are representative skin-lightening active ingredients that inhibit melanin production, and disodium adenosine monophosphate and dexpanthenol are skin-lightening active ingredients that inhibit melanin accumulation in the epidermis. In contrast, oral administration of vitamin C and tranexamic acid in pharmaceutical products can lighten freckles and melasma, and these products are more effective than quasi-drugs. On the basis of their clinical effectiveness, skin-lightening active ingredients can be divided into four categories according to their effectiveness and adverse effects. This review discusses academic research and development regarding skin-lightening ingredients in Japan.

An Open-Label Study Assessing the Efficacy and Tolerability of a Skincare Regimen in Subjects of Different Ethnicities with Moderate-to-Severe Hyperpigmentation

Background

Hyperpigmentation is a common cosmetic concern that significantly impacts self‐esteem. A skincare regimen has been developed to improve the appearance, tone, texture, and luminosity of subjects with facial hyperpigmentation (Even Up^® Hyperpigmentation Regimen; Colorescience, Inc., Carlsbad, CA).

Aims

The objective of this open‐label trial was to assess the efficacy and tolerability of this regimen for treating facial hyperpigmentation.

Patients/Methods

Subjects with moderate‐to‐severe facial hyperpigmentation (N = 33) were randomized to those not using prescription, advanced or physician‐dispensed skin care products (Group A, n = 23) and those currently using prescription, advanced or physician‐dispensed skincare products for facial hyperpigmentation (Group B, n = 10). Both groups were provided three skincare products comprising the hyperpigmentation regimen and instructions for use. Subjects were evaluated at baseline and Weeks 2, 4, 8 and 12.

Results

The overall median (range) baseline MASI score at baseline was 9.0 (2, 31), decreasing by 0.0 (−7, 0) points at Week 2 (p = 0.002), 0.6 (−8, 0) points at Week 4 (p < 0.0001), 1.5 (−16, 0) points by Week 8 (p < 0.0001) and 2.4 (−20, 0) points at Week 12 (p < 0.0001). At Week 12, the overall median improvement in MASI score was 26% and higher for Group B (32% vs. 22%). By Week 2, subjects reported lighter, less noticeable brown spots (76%), brighter, more luminous skin (88%), more even skin tone (67%), and healthier look and feel (85%). Improvements continued throughout the study. No adverse events were observed or reported.

Conclusions

This regimen addresses facial hyperpigmentation and protects skin against the damaging effects of ultraviolet and high energy visible light (HEV). It is safe to use on all skin types and tones.

Topical Over-the-Counter Antiaging Agents: An Update and Systematic Review

Over-the-counter antiaging formulations aim to prevent or minimize the signs of aging skin, and to maintain the benefits obtained from different cosmetic procedures. Even though a huge selection of such products is available on the market, evidence and good clinical practice of the data supporting their use are oftentimes lacking. In this systematic review, the authors reviewed scientific data available in the published literature on the most common ingredients used in antiaging cosmetics, with a particular focus on in vivo studies.

Molecular Mechanisms of Dermal Aging and Antiaging Approaches

The dermis is primarily composed of the extracellular matrix (ECM) and fibroblasts. During the aging process, the dermis undergoes significant changes. Collagen, which is a major component of ECM, becomes fragmented and coarsely distributed, and its total amount decreases. This is mainly due to increased activity of matrix metalloproteinases, and impaired transforming growth factor-β signaling induced by reactive oxygen species generated during aging. The reduction in the amount of collagen hinders the mechanical interaction between fibroblasts and the ECM, and consequently leads to the deterioration of fibroblast function and further decrease in the amount of dermal collagen. Other ECM components, including elastic fibers, glycosaminglycans (GAGs), and proteoglycans (PGs), also change during aging, ultimately leading to a reduction in the amount of functional components. Elastic fibers decrease in intrinsically aged skin, but accumulate abnormally in photoaged skin. The changes in the levels of GAGs and PGs are highly diverse, and previous studies have reported conflicting results. A reduction in the levels of functional dermal components results in the emergence of clinical aging features, such as wrinkles and reduced elasticity. Various antiaging approaches, including topicals, energy-based procedures, and dermal fillers, can restore the molecular features of dermal aging with clinical efficacy. This review summarizes the current understanding of skin aging at the molecular level, and associated treatments, to put some of the new antiaging technology that has emerged in this rapidly expanding field into molecular context.

A randomized, open, controlled trial of tretinoin 0.05% cream vs. low-dose oral isotretinoin for the treatment of field cancerization

BACKGROUND

Sun exposure may lead to actinic keratoses (AKs), field cancerization, and skin cancer. Effective treatment of AKs and field cancerization is important. Oral and topical retinoids can be used for this purpose. To compare clinical, histological, and immunohistochemical effects of oral and topical retinoid for AKs and field cancerization on face and upper limbs of immunocompetent patients, as well as the impact on quality of life, safety, and tolerability.

METHODS

This study compared 10 mg/day oral isotretinoin (ISO) to 0.05% tretinoin cream (TRE) every other night, associated with sunscreen (SPF 60). Patients of both genders, aged 50-75 years, underwent cryotherapy with liquid nitrogen for AKs at baseline and after 120 days when they were randomized into two groups, TRE (n = 31) and ISO (n = 30), for 6 months. Outcome measures were: number of AKs, histological (thickness of stratum corneum and epithelium) and immunohistochemical parameters (p53, Bcl-2 and Bax), dermatology life quality index (DLQI), and adverse events.

RESULTS

Both treatments reduced the number of AKs (around 28%), the thickness of stratum corneum, and expression of p53 and Bax. By contrast, the epithelium thickness and Bcl-2 expression increased. There was no difference in the outcomes between TRE and ISO. Both treatments improved quality of life and were well tolerated with minimal side effects.

CONCLUSIONS

Retinoids are effective and safe for field cancerization. Classical treatments for field cancerization (imiquimod and ingenol mebutate) are used for a short period; retinoids may be a good choice to intercalate with them and can be used continuously.

Polymer conjugated retinoids for controlled transdermal delivery

All-trans retinoic acid (ATRA), a derivative of vitamin A, is a common component in cosmetics and commercial acne creams as well as being a first-line chemotherapeutic agent. Today, formulations for the topical application of ATRA rely on creams and emulsions to incorporate the highly hydrophobic ATRA drug. These strategies, when applied to the skin, deliver ATRA as a single bolus, which is immediately taken up into the skin and contributes to many of the known adverse side effects of ATRA treatment, including skin irritation and hair loss. Herein we present a new concept in topical delivery of retinoids by covalently bonding the drug through a hydrolytically degradable ester linkage to a common hydrophilic polymer, polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), creating an amphiphilic nanomaterial that is water-soluble. This PVA bound ATRA can then act as a pro-drug and accumulate within the skin to allow for the sustained controlled delivery of active ATRA. This approach was demonstrated to release active ATRA out to 10days in vitro while significantly enhancing dermal accumulation of the ATRA in explant pig skin. In vivo we demonstrate that the pro-drug formulation reduces application site inflammation compared to free ATRA and retains the drug at the application site at measurable quantities for up to six days.

Tretinoin peel: a critical view

The tretinoin peel, also known as retinoic acid peel, is a superficial peeling often performed in dermatological clinics in Brazil. The first study on this was published in 2001, by Cuce et al., as a treatment option for melasma. Since then, other studies have reported its applicability with reasonable methodology, although without a consistent scientific background and consensus. Topical tretinoin is used for the treatment of various dermatoses such as acne, melasma, scars, skin aging and non-melanoma skin cancer. The identification of retinoids cellular receptors was reported in 1987, but a direct cause-effect relation has not been established. This article reviews studies evaluating the use of topical tretinoin as agent for superficial chemical peel. Most of them have shown benefits in the treatment of melasma and skin aging. A better quality methodology in the study design, considering indication and intervention is indispensable regarding concentration, vehicle and treatment regimen (interval and number of applications). Additionally, more controlled and randomized studies comparing the treatment with tretinoin cream versus its use as a peeling agent, mainly for melasma and photoaging, are necessary.

Skin Care

Aging skin is among the most common patient concerns in a facial plastic surgery practice. Ultraviolet (UV)-induced damage expedites the pace of intrinsic aging, resulting in many of the visible signs of aging, such as rough skin texture, pigmentation irregularities, fine and deep wrinkling, and inelasticity. Primary prevention of UV and environmental damage with proper skin care and the use of sunscreen are critical. There is great interest in topically applied products to reverse or delay the visible signs of photoaging. We discuss the most common topically applied agents for photoaging, reviewing their mechanisms and supporting evidence.

WITHDRAWN: Interventions for photodamaged skin

This review has been withdrawn because a review author contravenes Cochrane's Commercial Sponsorship Policy. This policy ensures the independence of Cochrane reviews by making sure that there is no bias associated with commercial conflicts of interest in the conduct of Cochrane reviews. The author was employed by the biopharmaceutical company AstraZeneca and cannot say with certainty that the company did not produce or have any financial interest in the interventions in this review.

The editorial group responsible for this previously published document have withdrawn it from publication.

An evidence-based systematic review of vitamin A by the natural standard research collaboration

An evidence-based systematic review of vitamin A by the Natural Standard Research Collaboration consolidates the safety and efficacy data available in the scientific literature using a validated and reproducible grading rationale. This paper includes written and statistical analysis of clinical trials, plus a compilation of expert opinion, folkloric precedent, history, pharmacology, kinetics/dynamics, interactions, adverse effects, toxicology, and dosing.

Comparative evaluation of wrinkle treatments

BACKGROUND

Skin wrinkles are one of the most cosmetically concerning signs of aging for women, and improvements in the visual effect of wrinkles become a matter of concern that has an impact on the quality of life. Although various wrinkle treatments are being tried in the area of aesthetics and noninvasive cosmetic surgery, no guideline on how to treat wrinkles exists to date. This study evaluated the clinical effects of four wrinkle treatment methods [fractional erbium yttrium-aluminum-garnet (YAG) laser treatment, intense pulsed light (IPL) therapy, CD-atRA external application, and nutritional therapy with intake of amino acid supplements]. These four methods were selected as promising candidates in a pilot case study to improve wrinkles by following the consensus guideline (Task Force Committee for Evaluation of Anti-Aging Function, J Jpn Cosmet Sci Soc 31:411-431, 2007) for the evaluation of anti-wrinkle effects issued by the Japan Cosmetic Industry Association.

METHODS

The wrinkle area fraction and skin viscoelasticity were measured by objective evaluation. Furthermore, a satisfaction survey of the subjects was conducted on the basis of subjective evaluations using the visual analog scale (VAS) method and in accordance with the guideline for the evaluation of antiwrinkle effects.

RESULTS

Fractional erbium YAG laser treatment showed statistically significant improvement in both of the objective evaluations (wrinkle area and skin elasticity). The IPL method showed statistically significant improvement in both of the objective evaluations (wrinkle area and skin elasticity), and it especially demonstrated a more significant difference in skin elasticity. The CD-tretinoin external application method showed statistically significant improvement in both of the objective evaluations (wrinkle area and skin elasticity), and it especially demonstrated a more significant difference in wrinkle area. Nutritional therapy showed statistically significant improvement in wrinkle area, whereas IPL, CD-tretinoin external application, and nutritional therapy demonstrated statistically significant improvement in the degree of wrinkle. As for the subjective assessment of VAS, all four treatments demonstrated equivalent satisfaction.

CONCLUSION

All four minimally invasive procedures (fractional erbium YAG treatment, IPL therapy, CD-atRA external application, and intake of amino acid supplements) showed significant improvement of wrinkles. Comparative evaluation of wrinkles using the same criteria is important. The findings clearly showed that an evidence-based approach to wrinkle treatments supported by validation of their effectiveness is required.

LEVEL OF EVIDENCE IV

This journal requires that authors assign a level of evidence to each article. For a full description of these Evidence-Based Medicine ratings, please refer to the Table of Contents or the online Instructions to Authors www.springer.com/00266 .

Topical retinoids in the management of photodamaged skin: from theory to evidence-based practical approach

Skin, being exposed directly to the environment, represents a unique model for demonstrating the synergistic effects of intrinsic and extrinsic factors on the ageing process. Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is the major factor among exogenous stressors responsible for premature skin ageing. The problem of skin ageing has captured public attention and has an important social impact. Different therapeutic approaches have been developed to treat cutaneous ageing and to diminish or prevent the negative effects of UVR. Topical retinoids represent an important and powerful class of molecules in the dermatologist's hands for the treatment of photodamaged skin. Since their introduction more than 20 years ago, topical retinoids have shown beneficial efficacy and good safety profiles in the management of photodamaged skin, and as therapeutic anti-ageing agents. This review provides a brief retrospective of the development of topical retinoids in the treatment of photodamaged skin, elucidates their mechanism of action, delineates their use and addresses clinical, pharmaceutical and regulatory issues in connection with their intended use.

Photoaging: prevention and topical treatments

A rapidly increasing number of people visit dermatologists for the prevention and treatment of aging skin. Sun avoidance and sunscreen use are widely accepted strategies of primary prevention against photoaging. Convincing evidence shows that topical application of retinoids has an effect on reversing, at least partially, mild to moderate photodamage. Antioxidants and alpha-hydroxy acids can alter the skin structure and function. Enzymes that repair DNA damage or oligonucleotides that enhance the endogenous capacity for DNA damage repair may prove to be future preventive/therapeutic interventions for aging skin.

Topical retinoids in the treatment of photoaging

A large number of different substances comprise the family of retinoids, which are traditionally described as vitamin A derivatives. By exerting their action through nuclear and cytoplasmic receptors they may improve photoaging. Tretinoin is the best studied retinoid in the treatment of photoaging. Others such as isotretinoin, retinaldehyde, and tazarotene, although less well studied, have given promising results.

Tolerability of high-dose topical tretinoin: the Veterans Affairs Topical Tretinoin Chemoprevention Trial

BACKGROUND

Topical tretinoin is a medication commonly used for acne that has potential application in the long-term treatment of photodamaged skin. However, there are few published data regarding the tolerability of high-dose tretinoin with long-term use.

OBJECTIVES

To assess the long-term tolerability of tretinoin 0.1% cream.

METHODS

A randomized, multicentre, double-blind, controlled trial for chemoprevention of keratinocyte carcinomas (i.e. basal cell or squamous cell carcinomas) using topical tretinoin cream to the face and ears was conducted. All participants were veterans and had a history of two or more keratinocyte carcinomas over the previous 5 years. Participants were examined (by a study dermatologist) and interviewed every 6 months (for up to 5.5 years to May 2004). Treatment comprised tretinoin 0.1% cream or vehicle control cream once daily, then twice daily as tolerated. Participants were instructed to step down application frequency to once daily or less if twice daily was not tolerated. The main outcome measures were reported side-effects, frequency of cream application and attendance at study visits. Appropriate data were available for four of the six clinical sites of this trial.

RESULTS

Data from 736 randomized participants (mean age 71 years; 97% men) from four clinical sites were analysed. The tretinoin group more commonly reported one or more side-effects at the 6-month follow-up than the control group (61% vs. 42%, P < 0.0001). Side-effects decreased over time in both groups, but to a greater extent in the tretinoin group, and the difference became nonsignificant at 30 months. Burning was the most common side-effect (39% tretinoin vs. 17% control, P < 0.0001). There was no difference in severity of side-effects among those affected. Of the participants who reported burning in either group, most reported mild burning; only 11% of those with burning in the tretinoin group reported it as severe (mild 62% tretinoin vs. 70% placebo; severe 11% vs. 5%; P = 0.4). Itching (24% vs. 16%, P = 0.01) and other local cutaneous reactions (12% vs. 6%, P = 0.01) were also more commonly reported by the tretinoin group at 6 months. There was no difference in numbness (2% vs. 2%, P = 0.9). Participants in the tretinoin group were less likely to apply cream twice daily at 6 months (29% vs. 43%, P = 0.0002). This difference persisted over the entire duration of follow-up. There was little difference between groups in attendance at study visits or completion of telephone interviews (92% vs. 95%, P = 0.06). No unexpected adverse events were reported.

CONCLUSIONS

Overall, the tolerability level of topical tretinoin was high in this study population, with almost 40% of the tretinoin group reporting no side-effects, and the majority (67%) tolerating at least once-daily dosing at 6-month follow-up. High-dose topical tretinoin is feasible for long-term use in this population.

Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety

Aging of skin is an intricate biological process consisting of two types. While intrinsic or chronological aging is an inevitable process, photoaging involves the premature aging of skin occurring due to cumulative exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Chronological and photoaging both have clinically differentiable manifestations. Various natural and synthetic retinoids have been explored for the treatment of aging and many of them have shown histological and clinical improvement, but most of the studies have been carried out in patients presenting with photoaged skin. Amongst the retinoids, tretinoin possibly is the most potent and certainly the most widely investigated retinoid for photoaging therapy. Although retinoids show promise in the treatment of skin aging, irritant reactions such as burning, scaling or dermatitis associated with retinoid therapy limit their acceptance by patients. This problem is more prominent with tretinoin and tazarotene whereas other retinoids mainly represented by retinaldehyde and retinol are considerably less irritating. In order to minimize these side effects, various novel drug delivery systems have been developed. In particular, nanoparticles have shown a good potential in improving the stability, tolerability and efficacy of retinoids like tretinoin and retinol. However, more elaborate clinical studies are required to confirm their advantage in the delivery of topical retinoids.

Use of oral isotretinoin in photoaging therapy

BACKGROUND

Many drugs are being used for prevention and treatment of photoaging, especially topical retinoids. The use of systemic retinoids, more specifically, isotretinoin, for this purpose has not been properly addressed to date. Our study was designed to assess the systemic use of isotretinoin used alone for the therapy of cutaneous photoaging.

OBJECTIVE

To demonstrate that isotretinoin is converted into retinoid and improves the appearance of the photoaged skin.

METHODS

Fifty women aged 40 to 60 years, phototype I, II, or III according Fitzpatrick, were selected to receive 20 mg of isotretinoin orally 3 times a week for a 3-month period. Patients underwent clinical and laboratory evaluation. Two biopsies and photographic control were performed. Patients were requested to use only topical photoprotecting agents during the treatment. Improvement in photoaging clinical parameters were evaluated through pictures taken and also through an evaluation form. Anatomopathologic parameters were obtained by comparing collagen degeneration and skin trophism. Results. Thirty patients fully complied with study requirements and were adequately analyzed. From the anatomopathologic data, an improvement of photoaging in 20 patients was observed.

CONCLUSIONS

Isotretinoin improves photoaging with few adverse events because of the low dose used and to the short treatment duration.

Facial anti-wrinkle cream: influence of product presentation on effectiveness: a randomized and controlled study

BACKGROUND/AIMS

The great interest in eternal youth has developed a large market for skin care products claiming anti-wrinkle effects. A high-priced luxurious anti-wrinkle cream dispensed in its original packaging and in a neutral jar, were compared with the effects from a regular moisturizing face cream in a luxurious jar.

METHODS

Eighty Swedish women aged 35-64 years were randomly divided into three groups; group A treated their facial skin for 6 weeks with the expensive cream in its luxury jar, B used a regular moisturiser filled in the luxury jar, and C used the expensive cream filled in a neutral jar. Evaluation was made by the subjects, clinical evaluation by a trained observer, and measurement of skin surface relief by optical profilometry.

RESULTS

Participants using jars A and B consumed more product than participants using jar C, and the luxury jar thus resulted in better compliance. There were no significant differences between the three groups relating to the effects on wrinkles and smoothness, nor in subject assessment of their skin feeling younger or more beautiful. Facial appearance was the same. Profilometry showed reduced surface microrelief with all products.

CONCLUSIONS

The present study conducted as a formal trial could not verify a claim of anti-wrinkle effect of a known prestigious product. Surprisingly, there was no systematic effect on subjective and objective cosmetic parameters of the luxury packaging, except a better compliance. Product appreciation by consumers may, however, be different in spontaneous use not biased by study conditions.

The use of retinoids in the treatment of photoaging

Photoaging describes the clinical and histologic consequences of chronic sun exposure, the key features of which--wrinkles and mottled hyperpigmentation--are frequently and erroneously attributed to the aging process. Although a number of surgical procedures can improve the clinical appearance of photoaged skin, the only medical therapy with proved benefit derived from randomized clinical trial evidence is the use of topical retinoids, particularly tretinoin, isotretinoin, and tazarotene. Retinoids are capable not only of repairing photoaged skin at both the clinical and biochemical levels but their use may prevent photoaging. There is in addition emerging evidence that topical retinoids could be beneficial in the treatment of intrinsically aged skin.

Marked improvement induced in photoaged skin of hairless mouse by ER36009, a novel RARgamma-specific retinoid, but not by ER35794, an RXR-selective agonist

BACKGROUND

Photoaging (premature skin aging) results largely from repeated exposure of the skin to ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun. Topical all-trans retinoic acid (RA), the only agent that has been approved for the treatment of photoaging, has been shown to reverse this process. In this study, we evaluated the pharmacologic effects of novel synthetic retinoids, ER36009 and ER35794, on murine wrinkles induced by UVB. ER36009 is a specific agonist of retinoic acid receptor (RAR)gamma, the most abundant RAR subtype in the skin, while ER35794 is a potent retinoid X receptor (RXR)-selective agonist.

METHOD

After a 10-week exposure to escalating doses of UVB irradiation, the animals were treated three times per week with ER36009 (0.0001%, 0.00025%, 0.0005%), ER35794 (0.025%, 0.05%, 0.1%), RA (0.05%) or acetone (control) for 3 weeks.

RESULTS

ER36009 exerted a dose-dependent wrinkle-effacing effect, and 0.0005% ER36009-treated skin was significantly different from the control. ER36009 also significantly and dose-dependently increased both epidermal thickness and the area of the dermal repair zone defined by newly synthesized collagen. The effect of 0.0005% ER36009 on photodamaged skin was superior to that of 0.05% RA. In contrast, ER35794 was inactive in this model, though this compound exhibited lower local toxicity than other retinoids.

CONCLUSIONS

These data indicate that RARgamma, but not RXR, plays an important role in the improvement of the signs of photoaging, and so a specific RARgamma agonist might be superior to an RAR pan-agonist for clinical treatment. We conclude that ER36009 is a candidate for a potent anti-skin-aging agent.

Effect of a novel dietary supplement on skin aging in post-menopausal women

OBJECTIVE

The aim of the present study was to quantify the effects on skin in post-menopausal women of a novel dietary supplement (Imedeen Prime Renewal) that contained soy extract, fish protein polysaccharides, extracts from white tea, grape seed and tomato, vitamins C and E as well as zinc and chamomile extract.

DESIGN

The study was a 6-month double blind, placebo controlled, randomized study on healthy post-menopausal females.

SETTING

The study was performed at a commercial Contract Research Organisation (TJ Stephens & Associates Inc., TX, USA).

INTERVENTIONS

Two tablets of Imedeen Prime Renewal or placebo were given twice daily for 6 months.

SUBJECTS

Thirty-eight (active group) and 42 (placebo group) subjects completed the study out of 100.

RESULTS

Clinical grading showed that the active group had a significantly greater improvement (P < 0.05) compared to placebo for the face after 6 months treatment for: forehead, periocular and perioral wrinkles, mottled pigmentation, laxity, sagging, under eye dark circles and overall apperance; skin on the décolletage after 2, 3 and 6 months treatment and skin on the hand after 3 and 6 months treatment. Photo evaluation showed that the active group had a significantly greater improvement (P < 0.05) on the face after 3 and 6 months for several parameters. Ultrasound measurements showed that the active group had a significantly greater improvement (P < 0.0001) for density measurements after 6 months treatment.

CONCLUSION

In summary, this novel dietary supplement, Imedeen Prime Renewal, provides improved condition, structure and firmness of the skin in post-menopausal women after 6 months.

Non-surgical treatment modalities of facial photodamage: practical knowledge for the oral and maxillofacial professional

With the increasing interest in cosmetic procedures, oral and maxillofacial surgeons are being asked not only to improve oral health and aesthetics but to extend their expertise to provide advice on improving the overall appearance of the face. For the discerning patient, improving overall facial skin appearance is becoming an integral part of the process of surgical cosmetic procedures. Here, some of the non-surgical options available for the treatment of photodamaged skin are reviewed and an overview of the specific treatments in this category provided. Sun avoidance and protection from harmful rays with appropriate sunscreens are primary to maintaining healthy skin and appearance. Among treatment options, topical treatments with preparations such as retinoids, alpha-hydroxy acids and antioxidants have been shown to provide some benefit and are relatively easy to use albeit with appropriate precautions and professional guidance. As a second-level option, facial rejuvenation procedures such as botulinum toxin injection, soft tissue augmentation with collagen or hyaluronic acid gel, skin resurfacing, use of chemical peels, dermabrasion and laser resurfacing procedures can be used but require administration by qualified practitioners. Overall, these treatments may be used to complement rehabilitative, reconstructive, or cosmetic oral and maxillofacial surgery to further improve and complement surgical results.

Long-term efficacy and safety of tretinoin emollient cream 0.05% in the treatment of photodamaged facial skin: a two-year, randomized, placebo-controlled trial

BACKGROUND

Long-term (>1 year) placebo-controlled studies of tretinoin in the treatment of photodamaged skin have not been conducted. Recently, we conducted a 2-year placebo-controlled study of tretinoin emollient cream 0.05%, including histopathologic assessment of safety and analysis of markers of collagen deposition.

OBJECTIVE

The objective of the study was to determine the long-term safety and efficacy of tretinoin emollient cream 0.05% in the treatment of moderate to severe facial photodamage.

METHODS

A total of 204 subjects were treated with tretinoin or placebo (vehicle emollient cream) applied to the entire face once a day for up to 2 years. Clinical and histologic effects were assessed at regularly scheduled clinic visits.

RESULTS

Treatment with tretinoin resulted in significantly greater improvement relative to placebo in clinical signs of photodamage (fine and coarse wrinkling, mottled hyperpigmentation, lentigines, and sallowness), overall photodamage severity, and investigator's global assessment of clinical response (p<0.05). Histologic evaluation showed no increase in keratinocytic or melanocytic atypia, dermal elastosis, or untoward effects on stratum corneum following treatment with tretinoin compared with placebo. Immunohistochemistry studies, conducted at three study centers, showed a significant increase relative to placebo in facial procollagen 1C terminal, a marker for procollagen synthesis, at month 12 (p=0.0074).

CONCLUSION

Long-term treatment with tretinoin emollient cream 0.05% is safe and effective in subjects with moderate to severe facial photodamage.

The role of topical retinoids in the treatment of photoaging

Aging of the skin is a complex biological process which is influenced by the interaction of several intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Intrinsic or chronological aging is an inevitable, genetically programmed process, of unclear underlying mechanism, for which no prevention or effective treatment is currently available. Photoaging refers to the gross and microscopic cutaneous changes that are induced by cumulative exposure to UV radiation and are superimposed on the background of chronological aging. Although primarily an aesthetic problem with significant psychological effects, photoaging constitutes the background for the development of precancerous and cancerous skin lesions.Overwhelming clinical and histological evidence indicate that certain structural changes induced by excessive sun exposure can be reversed, to some extent, by the use of topical retinoids. A number of retinoid compounds, for example tretinoin, isotretinoin, retinaldehyde and tazarotene, have been employed for the treatment of photoaged skin, and demonstrate beneficial clinical and histological effects. Adverse effects have been limited to an irritant reaction of variable intensity presenting with dryness, scaling and erythema. Ongoing research will enhance our understanding of the molecular mechanisms that determine the effects of retinoids on photodamaged skin and contribute to the employment of new, more effective and less irritating retinoid compounds.