Ascorbic acid preferentially enhances type I and III collagen gene transcription in human skin fibroblasts

Wrinkle Reduction Using Tetrapeptide-68 Contained in an O/W Formulation: A Randomized Double-Blind Placebo-Controlled Study

Peptides, composed of 2-50 amino acids, have gained attention in anti-aging treatments due to their high safety, low irritation, and cost-effective production. This study aimed to evaluate the anti-wrinkle efficacy of Tetrapeptide-68, derived from the skin structural protein Loricrin, on periorbital wrinkles in women aged 30-65 years. A 12-week, double-blind, randomized controlled trial was conducted with 25 participants who applied the Tetrapeptide-68 (100 ppm) O/W formulation around the eyes. Skin physiological parameters were assessed at baseline, 4, 8, and 12 weeks. Participants also completed efficacy and usability questionnaires. Significant improvements in wrinkle reduction were observed with Tetrapeptide-68 cream treatment, as measured by various skin roughness parameters and 3D imaging analysis. Participants reported positive changes in skin texture and moisture levels, with no adverse reactions noted. Tetrapeptide-68 cream demonstrates promising anti-wrinkle effects, highlighting its potential as an effective ingredient in anti-aging skincare formulations. Further studies are recommended to explore its long-term benefits and underlying mechanisms.

Unveiling the mechanisms for the development of rosehip-based dermatological products: an updated review

Rosa spp., commonly known as rosehips, are wild plants that have traditionally been employed as herbal remedies for the treatment of a wide range of disorders. Rosehip is a storehouse of vitamins, including A, B complex, C, and E. Among phytonutrients, vitamin C is found in the highest amount. As rosehips contain significant levels of vitamin C, they are perfect candidates for the development of skincare formulations that can be effectively used in the treatment of different skin disorders (i.e., scarring, anti-aging, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, melasma, and atopic dermatitis). This research focuses on the vitamin C content of several Rosa sp. by their botanical and geographic origins, which according to research studies are in the following order: R. rugosa > R. montana > R. canina > R. dumalis, with lower levels in R. villosa and R. arvensis, respectively. Among rosehip species, R. canina is the most extensively studied species which also displays significant amounts of bioactive compounds, but also antioxidant, and antimicrobial activities (e.g., against Propionibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus aureus, S, epidermis, and S. haemolyticus). The investigation also highlights the use of rosehip extracts and oils to minimise the harmful effects of acne, which primarily affects teenagers in terms of their physical appearance (e.g., scarring, hyperpigmentation, imperfections), as well as their moral character (e.g., low self-confidence, bullying). Additionally, for higher vitamin C content from various rosehip species, the traditional (i.e., infusion, maceration, Soxhlet extraction) and contemporary extraction methods (i.e., supercritical fluid extraction, microwave-assisted, ultrasonic-assisted, and enzyme-assisted extractions) are highlighted, finally choosing the best extraction method for increased bioactive compounds, with emphasis on vitamin C content. Consequently, the current research focuses on assessing the potential of rosehip extracts as medicinal agents against various skin conditions, and the use of rosehip concentrations in skincare formulations (such as toner, serum, lotion, and sunscreen). Up-to-date studies have revealed that rosehip extracts are perfect candidates as topical application products in the form of nanoemulsions. Extensive in vivo studies have revealed that rosehip extracts also exhibit specific activities against multiple skin disorders (i.e., wound healing, collagen synthesis, atopic dermatitis, melasma, and anti-aging effects). Overall, with multiple dermatological actions and efficacies, rosehip extracts and oils are promising agents that require a thorough investigation of their functioning processes to enable their safe use in the skincare industry.

Non-oral manifestations in adults with a clinical and molecularly confirmed diagnosis of periodontal Ehlers-Danlos syndrome

Introduction: Periodontal Ehlers-Danlos Syndrome (pEDS) is a rare autosomal dominant type of EDS characterised by severe early-onset periodontitis, lack of attached gingiva, pretibial plaques, joint hypermobility and skin hyperextensibility as per the 2017 International EDS Classification. In 2016, deleterious pathogenic heterozygous variants were identified in C1R and C1S, which encode components of the complement system. Materials and Methods: Individuals with a clinical suspicion of pEDS were clinically and molecularly assessed through the National EDS Service in London and Sheffield and in genetic services in Austria, Sweden and Australia. Transmission electron microscopy and fibroblast studies were performed in a small subset of patients. Results: A total of 21 adults from 12 families were clinically and molecularly diagnosed with pEDS, with C1R variants in all families. The age at molecular diagnosis ranged from 21-73 years (mean 45 years), male: female ratio 5:16. Features of easy bruising (90%), pretibial plaques (81%), skin fragility (71%), joint hypermobility (24%) and vocal changes (38%) were identified as well as leukodystrophy in 89% of those imaged. Discussion: This cohort highlights the clinical features of pEDS in adults and contributes several important additional clinical features as well as novel deleterious variants to current knowledge. Hypothetical pathogenic mechanisms which may help to progress understanding and management of pEDS are also discussed.

ELASTIC CATIONIC LIPOSOMES FOR VITAMIN C DELIVERY: DEVELOPMENT, CHARACTERIZATION AND SKIN ABSORPTION STUDY

The influence of hydrophilic surfactants acting on the membrane elasticity of liposomes on the skin absorption of vitamin C is investigated. The purpose of encapsulation inside cationic liposomes is to improve the skin delivery of vitamin C. The properties of elastic liposomes (ELs) are compared to that of conventional liposomes (CLs). ELs are formed by the addition of the "edge activator" Polysorbate 80 to the CLs composed of soybean lecithin, cationic lipid DOTAP (1,2-dioleoyl-3-trimethylammoniopropane chloride), and cholesterol. The liposomes are characterized by dynamic light scattering and electron microscopy. No toxicity is detected in human keratinocyte cells. Evidences of Polysorbate 80 incorporation into liposome bilayers and of the higher flexibility of ELs are given by isothermal titration calorimetry and pore edge tension measurements in giant unilamellar vesicles. The presence of a positive charge in the liposomal membrane increases the encapsulation efficacy by approximately 30% for both CLs and ELs. Skin absorption of vitamin C from CLs, ELs and a control aqueous solution measured in Franz cells shows a high delivery of vitamin C into each skin layer and the acceptor fluid from both liposome types. These results suggest that another mechanism drives skin diffusion, involving interactions between cationic lipids and vitamin C depending on the skin pH.

A Subjective and Objective Assessment of Combined Methods of Applying Chemical Peels and Microneedling in Antiaging Treatments

Combined methods of applying chemical peels and antioxidants could be an option for skin rejuvenation with no down-time. The penetration of active substances can be enhanced by microneedle mesotherapy. The study was conducted on a group of 20 female volunteers, aged 40-65 years. All volunteers received a series of eight treatments performed every seven days. The whole face was first treated with azelaic acid; following this, the right side received a 40% solution of vitamin C and the left side 10% vitamin C with microneedling. Hydration and skin elasticity were markedly improved, with better results observed on the microneedling side. Melanin and erythema index decreased. No significant side effects were seen. The combination of active ingredients and delivery techniques have great potential to enhance the effectiveness of cosmetic preparations, probably by multidirectional ways of action. In our study, we demonstrated that both 20% azelaic acid + 40% vitamin C treatment and 20% azelaic acid + 10% vitamin C + microneedle mesotherapy efficiently improved the assessed parameters of aging skin. However, the use of microneedling mesotherapy as a means of direct delivery of active compound to the dermis enhanced the effectiveness of the studied preparation.

Development of a Vascularized Human Skin Equivalent with Hypodermis for Photoaging Studies

Photoaging is an important extrinsic aging factor leading to altered skin morphology and reduced function. Prior work has revealed a connection between photoaging and loss of subcutaneous fat. Currently, primary models for studying this are in vivo (human samples or animal models) or in vitro models, including human skin equivalents (HSEs). In vivo models are limited by accessibility and cost, while HSEs typically do not include a subcutaneous adipose component. To address this, we developed an "adipose-vascular" HSE (AVHSE) culture method, which includes both hypodermal adipose and vascular cells. Furthermore, we tested AVHSE as a potential model for hypodermal adipose aging via exposure to 0.45 ± 0.15 mW/cm² 385 nm light (UVA). One week of 2 h daily UVA exposure had limited impact on epidermal and vascular components of the AVHSE, but significantly reduced adiposity by approximately 50%. Overall, we have developed a novel method for generating HSE that include vascular and adipose components and demonstrated potential as an aging model using photoaging as an example.

The Effect of Ascorbic Acid Supplementation on the Time of Healing of Rats Submitted to Neurosurgical Procedures

Introduction Vitamin C is an essential nutrient for both humans and rats and has been noted for its beneficial properties, among them, healing.

Objective To verify the effect of oral and subcutaneous vitamin C supplementation on the healing time of surgical wounds of rats skulls.

Statistical Methodology Thirty male Wistar rats were divided into 3 groups: 10 from the control group (GI), 10 from the group treated with oral vitamin C (GII), and 10 from the group treated with subcutaneous vitamin C (GIII). Vitamin C was administered to GI and GIII animals from the 3rd to the 7th postoperative day, totaling 10 days of administration at a dose of 100 mg/kg/day. On the 4th day of the study, the rats were submitted to a surgical procedure consisting of a 2-cm incision of the skin of the animals' heads and suturing with single stitches. After a determined period, the rats were killed and submitted to the collection of material for study by the picrosirius red technique for the evaluation of collagen types I and III, the degree of hematoxylin and eosin healing, and the rate of contraction of the wound on subsequent days. The results were described in averages, medians, minimum and maximum values, and standard deviations. For the comparison of the three groups, the analysis of variance with one factor (one-way ANOVA) or Kruskal-Wallis non-parametric test was used. The normality of the variables was evaluated by the Shapiro-Wilk test. Values of p < 0.05 indicated statistical significance. The data were analyzed using the IBM SPSS Statistics for Windows, v.20.0. software. (IBM Corp., Armonk, NY, USA).

Results The amount of collagen type III was higher in the groups that received vitamin C, however, without significant difference (n = 0.292). In relation to the rate of contraction of the surgical wound, it was higher in the groups treated with vitamin C, with a significant difference between groups I and II (p = 0.001), and between groups I and III (p < 0.001). No significant difference was found between the groups that were treated with vitamin C (p = 0.227).

Conclusion Healing was more effective in the groups treated with vitamin C than in the group that did not receive vitamin supplementation. There was no significant difference in healing between the groups receiving oral or subcutaneous vitamin C.

Clinical evaluation of anti-aging effects of combined therapy-Azelaic acid, phytic acid, and vitamin C applied layer by layer in females with Fitzpatrick skin types II and III

INTRODUCTION

Vitamins C, E, and A and substances of plant origin, including azelaic acid and phytic acid are frequently used in cosmetic preparations to counteract oxidative stress and negative effects of free radicals. The aim of the study was to evaluate a novel combined therapy consisting of azelaic acid, ascorbic acid, and phytic acid applied layer on layer.

METHODS

Twenty study participants received a series of eight treatments performed every 7 days. Twenty percent azelaic acid and then 30% phytic acid were applied to the entire face, while 40% l-ascorbic acid only on the left side. The preparations were applied layer by layer. Skin parameters were measured before the series of treatments (T0), after the series of eight treatments (T1-8 weeks), and 1 month after the end of the treatment (T2-12 weeks).

RESULTS

The application of two and three active compounds resulted in a significant improvement in erythema and hyperpigmentation both on the forehead and the cheeks, however, more pronounced effects were observed when all the three active compounds were used. Both applied types of treatment considerably increased skin moisture. All the participants (100%) were satisfied with the effects of the treatment. A majority of them reported an improvement in skin hydration, firmness, and elasticity, more uniform skin tone and a reduction of skin redness and wrinkles.

CONCLUSIONS

Topical application of these active compounds resulted in improvement of skin elasticity and flexibility, reduction of wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, erythema, and telangiectasia as well as amelioration of skin tone.

Diverse antitumor effects of ascorbic acid on cancer cells and the tumor microenvironment

Ascorbic acid has attracted substantial attention for its potential antitumor effects by acting as an antioxidant in vivo and as a cofactor in diverse enzymatic reactions. However, solid proof of its clinical efficacy against cancer and the mechanism behind its effect have not been established. Moreover, cancer forms cancer-specific microenvironments and interacts with various cells, such as cancer-associated fibroblasts (CAFs), to maintain cancer growth and progression; however, the effect of ascorbic acid on the cancer microenvironment is unclear. This review discusses the effects and mechanisms of ascorbic acid on cancer, including the role of ascorbic acid concentration. In addition, we present future perspectives on the effects of ascorbic acid on cancer cells and the CAF microenvironment. Ascorbic acid has a variety of effects, which contributes to the complexity of these effects. Oral administration of ascorbic acid results in low blood concentrations (&lt;0.2 mM) and acts as a cofactor for antioxidant effects, collagen secretion, and HIFα degradation. In contrast, intravenous treatment achieves large blood concentrations (&gt;1 mM) and has oxidative-promoting actions that exert anticancer effects via reactive oxygen species. Therefore, intravenous administration at high concentrations is required to achieve the desired effects on cancer cells during treatment. Partial data on the effect of ascorbic acid on fibroblasts indicate that it may also modulate collagen secretion in CAFs and impart tumor-suppressive effects. Thus, future studies should verify the effect of ascorbic acid on CAFs. The findings of this review can be used to guide further research and clinical trials.

Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) as a Cosmeceutical to Increase Dermal Collagen for Skin Antiaging Purposes: Emerging Combination Therapies

Ascorbic acid (AA) is an essential nutrient and has great potential as a cosmeceutical that protects the health and beauty of the skin. AA is expected to attenuate photoaging and the natural aging of the skin by reducing oxidative stress caused by external and internal factors and by promoting collagen gene expression and maturation. In this review, the biochemical basis of AA associated with collagen metabolism and clinical evidence of AA in increasing dermal collagen and inhibiting skin aging were discussed. In addition, we reviewed emerging strategies that have been developed to overcome the shortcomings of AA as a cosmeceutical and achieve maximum efficacy. Because extracellular matrix proteins, such as collagen, have unique amino acid compositions, their production in cells is influenced by the availability of specific amino acids. For example, glycine residues occupy 1/3 of amino acid residues in collagen protein, and the supply of glycine can be a limiting factor for collagen synthesis. Experiments showed that glycinamide was the most effective among the various amino acids and amidated amino acids in stimulating collagen production in human dermal fibroblasts. Thus, it is possible to synergistically improve collagen synthesis by combining AA analogs and amino acid analogs that act at different stages of the collagen production process. This combination therapy would be useful for skin antiaging that requires enhanced collagen production.

Phosphorylation of eIF4E in the stroma drives the production and spatial organisation of collagen type I in the mammary gland

The extracellular matrix (ECM) plays critical roles in breast cancer development. Whether ECM composition is regulated by the phosphorylation of eIF4E on serine 209, an event required for tumorigenesis, has not been explored. Herein, we used proteomics and mouse modelling to investigate the impact of mutating serine 209 to alanine on eIF4E (i.e., S209A) on mammary gland (MG) ECM. The proteomic data have been deposited to the ProteomeXchange Consortium via the PRIDE partner repository with the dataset identifier PXD028953. We discovered that S209A knock-in mice, expressing a non-phosphorylatable form of eIF4E, have less collagen-I deposition in native and tumor-bearing MGs, leading to altered tumor cell invasion. Additionally, phospho-eIF4E-deficiency impacts collagen topology; fibers at the tumor-stroma boundary in phospho-eIF4E-deficient mice run parallel to the tumor edge but radiate outwards in wild-type mice. Finally, a phospho-eIF4E-deficient tumor microenvironment resists anti-PD-1 therapy-induced collagen deposition, correlating with an increased anti-tumor response to immunotherapy. Clinically, we showed that collagen-I and phospho-eIF4E are positively correlated in human breast cancer samples, and that stromal phospho-eIF4E expression is influenced by tumor proximity. Together, our work defines the importance of phosphorylation of eIF4E on S209 as a regulator of MG collagen architecture in the tumor microenvironment, thereby positioning phospho-eIF4E as a therapeutic target to augment response to therapy.

Bone Regeneration Using Autologous Adipose-Derived Stem Cell Spheroid Complex

Bone defects require reconstruction using various biomaterials or non-biological materials. Stem cell spheroids can be used for scaffold-free approaches for osteogenesis. We set up a culture method for creating an optimal osteogenic adipose-derived stem cell (ADSC) spheroid complex by measuring the expression of protein in a sequential series of culture media. After culturing ADSC spheroids for 24 hours in DMEM, the spheroids were cultured in ascorbic acid-containing medium for five days followed by osteoblast differentiation medium. One day after exchanging to osteoblast differentiation medium, spheroids were collected and cultured for four days to obtain a spheroid complex. Each culture period was determined by analyzing the expression of collagen type I, alkaline phosphatase and integrin α5 to maximize the activity of ADSC spheroids. The expression of collagen type I increased significantly in ascorbic acid-containing medium (p < 0.05) compared with control medium on day five, suggesting that culturing spheroids in ascorbic acid increases collagen synthesis. RNA was extracted from ADSC spheroids after 1, 3, 5, and 7 days in each medium and RT-PCR was performed to measure integrin α5 expression. The expression was transiently high on the first day of osteoblast differentiation culture and then gradually decreased. Osteoblast differentiation medium enhanced cell adhesion in spheroids. An in vivo study confirmed the osteogenic potential of the ADSC spheroid complex created by the established protocol. The ADSC spheroid complex stimulated bone regeneration and will be applied to the treatment of large bone defects.

In-vitro and in-vivo evaluations of tocotrienol-rich nanoemulsified system on skin wound healing

Proper wound healing is vital for the survival of higher organisms. Responses to skin injury can lead to complications such as scar formation that can affect the quality of life. In this study, keratinocytes migration (scratch assay) and zebrafish tail regeneration experiments were used to evaluate the wound healing effect of a tocotrienol-based nanoemulsified (NE) system against ascorbic acid and phosphate-buffered saline (PBS) as positive and negative controls, respectively. MTT assay provided a concentration range of 0.35–8.75 μg/ml of nanoemulsion that produced cell viability more than 100%. After 24 hours of treatment, the wound closure of keratinocytes were found to be significantly faster by 73.76%, 63.37% and 35.56%, respectively when treated with 3.50 μg/ml and 1.75 μg/ml of NE compared to the blank. The lethal concentration at 50% (LC₅₀ value) obtained from acute and prolonged toxicity was almost similar, which was 4.6 mg/ml and 5.0 mg/ml, respectively. Growth of zebrafish tail regeneration treated with NE at a concentration of 2.5 mg/ml was significantly faster than the untreated zebrafish, which regenerated to 40% on the fifth day, more than 60% on the tenth day of treatment and fully recovered at the twentieth day. In conclusion, these results showed the potential of the tocotrienols-based nanoemulsified system in enhancing wound healing through accelerated wound closure.

Combination of Glycinamide and Ascorbic Acid Synergistically Promotes Collagen Production and Wound Healing in Human Dermal Fibroblasts

The purpose of this study is to present a novel strategy to enhance collagen production in cells. To identify amino acid analogs with excellent collagen production-enhancing effects, human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) were treated with 20 kinds of amidated amino acids and 20 kinds of free amino acids, individually at 1 mM. The results showed that glycinamide enhanced collagen production (secreted collagen level) most effectively. Glycine also enhanced collagen production to a lesser degree. However, other glycine derivatives, such as N-acetyl glycine, N-acetyl glycinamide, glycine methyl ester, glycine ethyl ester, and glycyl glycine, did not show such effects. Glycinamide increased type I and III collagen protein levels without affecting COL1A1 and COL3A1 mRNA levels, whereas transforming growth factor-β1 (TGF-β1, 10 ng mL−1) increased both mRNA and protein levels of collagens. Ascorbic acid (AA, 1 mM) increased COL1A1 and COL3A1 mRNA and collagen I protein levels. Unlike TGF-β1, AA and glycinamide did not increase the protein level of α-smooth muscle actin, a marker of differentiation of fibroblasts into myofibroblasts. The combination of AA and glycinamide synergistically enhanced collagen production and wound closure in HDFs to a level similar to that in cells treated with TGF-β1. AA derivatives, such as magnesium ascorbyl 3-phosphate (MAP), 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, ascorbyl 2-O-glucoside, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, enhanced collagen production, and the mRNA and protein levels of collagens at 1 mM, and their effects were further enhanced when co-treated with glycinamide. Among AA derivatives, MAP had a similar effect to AA in enhancing wound closure, and its effect was further enhanced by glycinamide. Other AA derivatives had different effects on wound closure. This study provides a new strategy to enhance cell collagen production and wound healing using glycinamide in combination with AA.

In vivo evaluation of topical ascorbic acid application on skin aging by 50MHz ultrasound

Ascorbic acid (AA) is a powerful antioxidant capable of acting significantly both in the prevention and treatment of the skin aging process. One way to assess the in vivo efficacy of anti-aging treatments is by using the high-frequency ultrasound (HFUS) skin image analysis technique, a non-invasive approach that allows for a new level of evaluating the effectiveness of dermatological and cosmetic products. The aim of the present study was to assess the performance of a topical emulsion of liquid crystalline structures containing AA using the 50 MHz HFUS skin image analysis method. Twenty-five healthy female participants between 35 and 60 years old were included, all of whom randomly applied a placebo formulation and an AA-containing formulation to each forearm, once a day, for 30 days. HFUS measurements were performed before using the products (T0), two hours later (T2h), and after 30 days of use (T30d). The analyzed parameters included total skin, dermal, and epidermal echogenicity; variation and mean thickness of total skin, the epidermis and dermis; and surface roughness. Statistical analyses were performed using the Friedman test, followed by Dunn's test for comparisons of multiple means (α=0.05). A significant increase in total skin and dermal echogenicity was observed after topical AA application. Our findings suggest that collagen synthesis significantly increased after topical therapy with AA, which was responsible for the increment in dermal echogenicity. This study showed, through the HFUS technique, that the topical use of AA promoted dermal redensification after 30 days of application.

Electrochemical Detection of Ascorbic Acid in Oranges at MWCNT-AONP Nanocomposite Fabricated Electrode

Ascorbic acid (AA) is an essential vitamin in the body, influencing collagen formation, as well as norepinephrine, folic acids, tryptophan, tyrosine, lysine, and neuronal hormone metabolism. This work reports on electrochemical detection of ascorbic acid (AA) in oranges using screen-print carbon electrodes (SPCEs) fabricated with multi-walled carbon nanotube- antimony oxide nanoparticle (MWCNT-AONP) nanocomposite. The nanocomposite-modified electrode displayed enhanced electron transfer and a better electrocatalytic reaction towards AA compared to other fabricated electrodes. The current response at the nanocomposite-modified electrode was four times bigger than the bare electrode. The sensitivity and limit of detection (LOD) at the nanocomposite modified electrode was 0.3663 [AA]/µM and 140 nM, respectively, with linearity from 0.16–0.640 μM and regression value R² = 0.985, using square wave voltammetry (SWV) for AA detection. Two well-separated oxidation peaks were observed in a mixed system containing AA and serotonin (5-HT); and the sensitivity and LOD were 0.0224 [AA]/µA, and 5.85 µΜ, respectively, with a concentration range from 23 to 100 µM (R² = 0.9969) for AA detection. The proposed sensor outperformed other AA sensors reported in the literature. The fabricated electrode showed great applicability with excellent recoveries ranging from 99 to 107 %, with a mean relative standard deviation (RSD) value of 3.52 % (n = 3) towards detecting AA in fresh oranges.

Detachable dissolvable microneedles: intra-epidermal and intradermal diffusion, effect on skin surface, and application in hyperpigmentation treatment

Delivering bioactive compounds into skin tissue has long been a challenge. Using ex vivo porcine and rat skins, here we demonstrate that a detachable dissolvable microneedle (DDMN) array, a special dissolvable microneedle that allows needle detachment from the base within 2 min post administration, can effectively embed a model compound into epidermis and dermis. Diffusion of the compound from the needle embedding sites to the nearby skin tissue is demonstrated at various post administration periods. The relationship between the time that a conventional dissolvable microneedle array is left on skin without needle detachment from the base and the degree of skin surface abrasion at each microneedle penetration spot is also demonstrated on skin of human volunteers. Co-loading glutathione with vitamin C (vitC) can stabilize vitC in the DDMN. DDMN loaded with vitC and glutathione can help erasing post-acne-hyperpigmentation spots.

In vivo study of the effects of a portable cold plasma device and vitamin C for skin rejuvenation

Nowadays, cold atmospheric plasma shows interesting results in dermatology. In the present study, a new portable cold plasma was designed for plasma skin rejuvenation (PSR) purposes. This device is safe and easy to use at beauty salons and homes. The effects of this device were investigated on the rat skins. Also, as a new method to improve PSR results, vitamin C ointment was combined with plasma. In this study, there were four groups of 5 Wistar rats. The first group received vitamin C ointment, the second received 5 min of high-voltage plasma, and the third and the fourth groups received 5 min of high- and low-voltage plasma and vitamin C ointment. This process was done every other day (3 sessions per week) for 6 weeks. To evaluate the thermal effect of plasma, the skin temperature was monitored. Also, the presence of reactive species was demonstrated by the use of optical spectroscopy. In addition, mechanical assays were performed to assess the effect of plasma and vitamin C on the tissue's mechanical strength. The mechanical assays showed a positive impact of plasma on the treated tissue compared to the control group. Also, changes in the collagen level and thickness of the epidermal layer were examined in histological studies. The results indicated an increase in collagen levels after using plasma alone and an accelerated skin reaction after using vitamin C combined with plasma therapy. The epidermal layer's thickness increased after applying high-voltage plasma, which indicates an increase in skin elasticity. This study demonstrates the positive effect of using the portable plasma device with vitamin C ointment on effective parameters in skin rejuvenation.

Effects of Citrus Fruit Juices and Their Bioactive Components on Inflammation and Immunity: A Narrative Review

The immune system provides defence to the host against pathogenic organisms. A weak immune system increases susceptibility to infections and allows infections to become more severe. One component of the immune response is inflammation. Where inflammation is excessive or uncontrolled it can damage host tissues and cause pathology. Limitation of oxidative stress is one means of controlling inflammation. Citrus fruit juices are a particularly good source of vitamin C and folate, which both have roles in sustaining the integrity of immunological barriers and in supporting the function of many types of immune cell including phagocytes, natural killer cells, T-cells and B-cells. Vitamin C is an antioxidant and reduces aspects of the inflammatory response. Important bioactive polyphenols in citrus fruit juices include hesperidin, narirutin and naringin. Hesperidin is a glycoside of hesperetin while narirutin and naringin are glycosides of naringenin. Hesperidin, hesperetin, naringenin, naringin and narirutin have all been found to have anti-inflammatory effects in model systems, and human trials of hesperidin report reductions in inflammatory markers. In humans, orange juice was shown to limit the post-prandial inflammation induced by a high fat-high carbohydrate meal. Consuming orange juice daily for a period of weeks has been reported to reduce markers of inflammation, including C-reactive protein, as confirmed through a recent meta-analysis. A newly emerging topic is whether polyphenols from orange juice have direct anti-viral effects. In summary, micronutrients and other bioactives present in citrus fruit juices have established roles in controlling oxidative stress and inflammation and in supporting innate and acquired immune responses. Trials in humans demonstrate that orange juice reduces inflammation; its effects on innate and acquired immunity require further exploration in well-designed trials in appropriate population sub-groups such as older people.

Spices, Condiments, Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Aromas as Not Only Flavorings, but Precious Allies for Our Wellbeing

Spices, condiments and extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) are crucial components of human history and nutrition. They are substances added to foods to improve flavor and taste. Many of them are used not only to flavor foods, but also in traditional medicine and cosmetics. They have antioxidant, antiviral, antibiotic, anticoagulant and antiinflammatory properties and exciting potential for preventing chronic degenerative diseases such as cardiomyopathy and cancer when used in the daily diet. Research and development in this particular field are deeply rooted as the consumer inclination towards natural products is significant. It is essential to let consumers know the beneficial effects of the daily consumption of spices, condiments and extra virgin olive oil so that they can choose them based on effects proven by scientific works and not by the mere illusion that plant products are suitable only because they are natural and not chemicals. The study begins with the definition of spices, condiments and extra virgin olive oil. It continues by describing the pathologies that can be prevented with a spicy diet and it concludes by considering the molecules responsible for the beneficial effects on human health (phytochemical) and their eventual transformation when cooked.

Effect of an Oral Nutrition Supplement Containing Collagen Peptides on Stratum Corneum Hydration and Skin Elasticity in Hospitalized Older Adults: A Multicenter Open-label Randomized Controlled Study

OBJECTIVE

The purpose of this randomized open-label study was to investigate the effect of an oral nutrition supplement containing collagen peptides on stratum corneum hydration and skin elasticity.

METHODS

The study protocol was registered at the UMIN Clinical Trials Registry (UMIN 000027347). Once-a-day oral administration of a nutrition supplement containing collagen peptides (10.0 g) was instituted in 39 inpatients 65 years or older who were assigned to either the intervention or the control group using a block-randomization design. Stratum corneum hydration and skin elasticity were measured at baseline and at 2, 4, 6, and 8 weeks after the start of the intervention.

RESULTS

Mean stratum corneum hydration was significantly increased from 43.7 at baseline to 51.7 at postintervention week 8 in the intervention group (P = .001). Differences in skin elasticity from baseline were significant at postintervention week 6 (P = .026) and week 8 (P = .049).

CONCLUSIONS

Oral nutrition supplements containing collagen peptides may reduce skin vulnerability in older adults and thus prevent conditions such as skin tears.

Revisiting the pathobiology of scurvy: a review of the literature in the context of a challenging case

Scurvy is a nutritional disorder resulting from vitamin C deficiency. Although rare in developing countries, scurvy continues to develop in settings of limited dietary intake such as post-gastrointestinal surgery and restrictive dietary habits. The disease primarily affects the skin and soft tissue. As the state of deficiency persists, hematological and immunological sequelae may develop. The classic signs of scurvy are not always present and can be altered by the presence of other comorbidities. In this article, we present a challenging case of scurvy in an older male from an urban tertiary healthcare setting. We review the atypical and uncommon clinical and pathological findings of scurvy including those seen in the skin, blood, and bone marrow. We also review contemporary research findings that provide a better understanding of the pathogenicity and clinical manifestations of vitamin C deficiency.

Anti-Wrinkle Benefits of Peptides Complex Stimulating Skin Basement Membrane Proteins Expression

The dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) provides a physical and biological interface between the epidermis and the dermis. In addition to providing a structural integrity, the DEJ also acts as a passageway for molecular transport. Based on the recently reported importance of the DEJ in skin aging, novel peptide derivatives have been tested for their effects on basement membrane (BM) protein expressions in cultured human epidermal keratinocytes. As a result, protein expressions of collagen XVII, laminin and nidogen were stimulated by the test peptide and peptides complex. Further ex vivo evaluation using excised human skin, confirmed that the topical application of the peptides complex significantly increased dermal collagen expression, as well as expressions of collagen XVII and laminin. Interestingly, while the origin of the laminin protein is epidermal keratinocytes, the immunohistochemical staining of skin showed that laminin was only detected in the uppermost layer of the dermis, which suggests a tight assembly of laminin protein onto the dermal side of the DEJ. These results suggest that a peptide complex could improve the structural properties of the DEJ through its ability to stimulate BM proteins. In order to evaluate the anti-wrinkle benefits of the peptide complex in vivo, a clinical study was performed on 22 healthy Asian female volunteers older than 40 years. As a result, significant improvements in skin wrinkles for all of the five sites were observed after two weeks, as assessed by skin topographic measurements. Collectively, these results demonstrate the anti-aging efficacy of the peptides complex.

Ascorbic acid encapsulated into negatively charged liposomes exhibits increased skin permeation, retention and enhances collagen synthesis by fibroblasts

Ascorbic acid (AA) is widely used in cosmetic formulations due to its antioxidant property and ability to increase collagen synthesis. Here, we encapsulated AA in vesicles with different lipid compositions. Negative liposome charge favored AA skin retention, with accumulation of 37 ± 12 and 74 ± 23 μg/cm² in the epidermis and dermis, respectively, after 6 hours. Drug flux was influenced by the formulation composition, and both the presence of cholesterol and the liposomes surface charge were able to increase the amount of AA crossing the skin. The formulation was stable for at least 30 days and promoted a 7-fold increase in flux compared to free AA. Additionally, liposomes were able to interact better with keratinocytes and fibroblasts membranes. In vitro efficacy studies demonstrated that associating AA to these liposomes resulted in increased effectiveness of type I collagen synthesis by fibroblasts and regeneration of UVA-induced damage in keratinocytes. Our results demonstrate the applicability of AA-negatively charged liposomes in promoting AA cutaneous permeation and increasing the retention and flux of this molecule in the skin. This formulation also increased AA stability and effectiveness, opening new perspectives for its application in view of reducing certain skin ageing outcomes.

Role of a combination dietary supplement containing mucopolysaccharides, vitamin C, and collagen on tendon healing in rats

Objective

The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of mucopolysaccharide, vitamin C, and collagen supplementation on the healing of Achilles tendon in rats.

Methods

Sixteen rats were separated into 2 groups. Both Achilles tendons of all rats were transected 5 mm above the insertion and repaired using a Kessler suture. After the surgical repair, the study group received the daily recommended amount of the supplement by gastric gavage, while the control group received a placebo. At the end of the third week, the animals were sacrificed. The biomechanical properties of the groups were compared with ultimate tensile strength and stiffness tests. The biological properties of the 2 groups were assessed with a histomorphometric comparison to determine the amount of collagen type I (COL1), proliferating cell nuclear antigen (PCNA), and transforming growth factor β1 (TGF-β1) expression in 3 different tissue subgroups (collagen matrix, tenocytes, and endotenon fibroblasts).

Results

Analysis of histomorphometric results revealed that the rats receiving dietary supplements demonstrated a significant increase in PCNA (mean value of 86 in the control group and 168.85 in the trial group; p < 0.05) and TGF-β1 (mean value of 87.57 in the control group and 161.85 in the trial group; p < 0.05) in the endotenon fibroblasts of the repair site. However, there was no difference between the groups in PCNA or TGF-β1 when the collagen matrix and the tenocytes of the repair site were examined. Furthermore, no significant difference could be found between groups in COL1 in any of the 3 tissue subgroups (collagen matrix, tenocytes, and endotenon fibroblasts). The statistical analysis also indicated that the rats receiving supplements did not demonstrate a significant increase in the ultimate tendon tensile strength or stiffness.

Conclusion

The results of this study revealed no advantage to the oral administration of the trial supplement in collagen synthesis or biomechanical properties in rats after 3 weeks using the presented study design. However, the increased expression of PCNA and TGFβ1 seen in the endotenon fibroblasts of the repair site might play a role in the continuum of tendon healing.

Daily oral supplementation with collagen peptides combined with vitamins and other bioactive compounds improves skin elasticity and has a beneficial effect on joint and general wellbeing

Aging is a multifactorial and natural process that causes physiological changes in organs, tissues and cells over time. In the skin and cartilage, aging leads to a decrease in the synthesis and changes in the arrangement of proteoglycans and collagen, in addition to the loss of glycosaminoglycans, which are responsible for the integrity and health of these tissues. We hypothesized that daily oral supplementation with a liquid nutraceutical containing hydrolyzed fish collagen, vitamins, antioxidants and other active ingredients could improve skin texture and elasticity, and in addition have a protective effect on joint health. A double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled clinical trial was conducted on 120 subjects who consumed either the test product or placebo on a daily basis for 90 days. Subjects consuming the test product had an overall significant increase in skin elasticity (+40%; P < .0001) when compared to placebo. Histological analysis of skin biopsies revealed positive changes in the skin architecture, with a reduction in solar elastosis and improvement in collagen fiber organization in the test product group. As reported in the self-perception questionnaires, these results were confirmed by the subjects' own perceptions in that participants agreed their skin was more hydrated and more elastic. In addition, the consumption of the test product reduced joint pain by -43% and improved joint mobility by +39%. Oral supplementation with collagen bioactive peptides combined with chondroitin sulphate, glucosamine, L-carnitine, vitamins, and minerals significantly improved the clinical parameters related to skin aging and joint health, and therefore, might be an effective solution to slow down the hallmarks of aging.

neo-Clerodane Diterpenoids from Salvia polystachya Stimulate the Expression of Extracellular Matrix Components in Human Dermal Fibroblasts

Eleven neo-clerodane diterpenoids (1-11) including the new analogues 1, 2, and 10, and 3',5,6,7-tetrahydroxy-4'-methoxyflavone (12) were isolated from the aerial parts of Salvia polystachya. Polystachyne G (1) and 15-epi-polystachyne G (2) were isolated as an epimeric mixture, containing a 5-hydroxyfuran-2(5H)-one unit in the side chain at C-12 of the neo-clerodane framework. Polystachyne H (10) contains a 1(10),2-diene moiety and a tertiary C-4 hydroxy group. The structures of these compounds were established by analysis of their NMR spectroscopic and MS spectrometric data. The absolute configurations of compounds 3, 4, and 10 were determined through single-crystal X-ray diffraction analysis. The antibacterial, antifungal, and phytotoxic activities of the diterpenoids were determined. In addition, the stimulatory effect of the expression of extracellular matrix components of nine of the isolates (1-8 and 11) was assayed. Compounds 1-4, 8, and 11 increased the expression of the genes codifying for type I, type III, and type V collagens and for elastin.

Vitamin C and Immune Function

Vitamin C is an essential micronutrient for humans, with pleiotropic functions related to its ability to donate electrons. It is a potent antioxidant and a cofactor for a family of biosynthetic and gene regulatory enzymes. Vitamin C contributes to immune defense by supporting various cellular functions of both the innate and adaptive immune system. Vitamin C supports epithelial barrier function against pathogens and promotes the oxidant scavenging activity of the skin, thereby potentially protecting against environmental oxidative stress. Vitamin C accumulates in phagocytic cells, such as neutrophils, and can enhance chemotaxis, phagocytosis, generation of reactive oxygen species, and ultimately microbial killing. It is also needed for apoptosis and clearance of the spent neutrophils from sites of infection by macrophages, thereby decreasing necrosis/NETosis and potential tissue damage. The role of vitamin C in lymphocytes is less clear, but it has been shown to enhance differentiation and proliferation of B- and T-cells, likely due to its gene regulating effects. Vitamin C deficiency results in impaired immunity and higher susceptibility to infections. In turn, infections significantly impact on vitamin C levels due to enhanced inflammation and metabolic requirements. Furthermore, supplementation with vitamin C appears to be able to both prevent and treat respiratory and systemic infections. Prophylactic prevention of infection requires dietary vitamin C intakes that provide at least adequate, if not saturating plasma levels (i.e., 100–200 mg/day), which optimize cell and tissue levels. In contrast, treatment of established infections requires significantly higher (gram) doses of the vitamin to compensate for the increased inflammatory response and metabolic demand.

The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health

The primary function of the skin is to act as a barrier against insults from the environment, and its unique structure reflects this. The skin is composed of two layers: the epidermal outer layer is highly cellular and provides the barrier function, and the inner dermal layer ensures strength and elasticity and gives nutritional support to the epidermis. Normal skin contains high concentrations of vitamin C, which supports important and well-known functions, stimulating collagen synthesis and assisting in antioxidant protection against UV-induced photodamage. This knowledge is often used as a rationale for the addition of vitamin C to topical applications, but the efficacy of such treatment, as opposed to optimising dietary vitamin C intake, is poorly understood. This review discusses the potential roles for vitamin C in skin health and summarises the in vitro and in vivo research to date. We compare the efficacy of nutritional intake of vitamin C versus topical application, identify the areas where lack of evidence limits our understanding of the potential benefits of vitamin C on skin health, and suggest which skin properties are most likely to benefit from improved nutritional vitamin C intake.

A simple and effective protocol for fast isolation of human Tenon's fibroblasts from a single trabeculectomy biopsy - a comparison of cell behaviour in different culture media

Background

Human Tenon’s fibroblasts (HTFs) play a crucial role in wound healing. They cause postoperative scarring of the filtering bleb and are thus responsible for trabeculectomy failure. This study aimed to find an effective and fast protocol for HTF isolation from trabeculectomy biopsies. The protocol was compared with the commonly recommended HTF isolation procedure, which uses Dulbecco’s modified Eagle’s medium (DMEM). We used Eagle’s minimum essential medium (EMEM) enriched with fibroblast growth factor (FGF), which selectively promoted the proliferation of HTF cells. A secondary goal was to compare HTF morphology, metabolism and growth during parallel cultivation of the isolated cells in FGF-enriched EMEM and DMEM.

Results

Standard procedures for HTF isolation from tissue biopsies require a 20- to 30-day culture of the explants to obtain the first monolayer. Our protocol yielded the first monolayer after approx. 15 days. More importantly, the majority of the cells were fibroblasts with only individual epithelium-derived cells present. Using FGF-enriched EMEM allowed 1.3 × 10⁶ vimentin-positive fibroblasts to be obtained from a single biopsy within approx. 25 days. Using DMEM resulted in isolation failure and required exchange to FGF-enriched medium to recover the fibroblast culture. HTFs maintained in FGF-enriched EMEM also showed faster proliferation and a different type I collagen production ability compared to HTFs cultured in DMEM. Thus, FGF-enriched EMEM is recommended for fast propagation of HTFs unless the aim of the study is to assess the effect of a tested agent on proliferation ability or type I collagen production.

Conclusions

Our fast protocol for HTF isolation allows easy setup of cell banks by researchers under laboratory conditions and could be very useful during testing of novel ophthalmologic anti-fibrotic agents in vitro. Molecular analysis of HTFs isolated from patients with known treatment histories may provide valuable information on the effects of some medications taken before glaucoma surgery on the subsequent wound-healing process and potential for trabeculectomy failure.

Electronic supplementary material

The online version of this article (doi:10.1186/s11658-017-0034-4) contains supplementary material, which is available to authorized users.

Skin Care

Aging skin is among the most common patient concerns in a facial plastic surgery practice. Ultraviolet (UV)-induced damage expedites the pace of intrinsic aging, resulting in many of the visible signs of aging, such as rough skin texture, pigmentation irregularities, fine and deep wrinkling, and inelasticity. Primary prevention of UV and environmental damage with proper skin care and the use of sunscreen are critical. There is great interest in topically applied products to reverse or delay the visible signs of photoaging. We discuss the most common topically applied agents for photoaging, reviewing their mechanisms and supporting evidence.

The potential applications of fibrin-coated electrospun polylactide nanofibers in skin tissue engineering

Fibrin plays an important role during wound healing and skin regeneration. It is often applied in clinical practice for treatment of skin injuries or as a component of skin substitutes. We prepared electrospun nanofibrous membranes made from poly(l-lactide) modified with a thin fibrin nanocoating. Fibrin surrounded the individual fibers in the membrane and also formed a thin fibrous mesh on several places on the membrane surface. The cell-free fibrin nanocoating remained stable in the cell culture medium for 14 days and did not change its morphology. On membranes populated with human dermal fibroblasts, the rate of fibrin degradation correlated with the degree of cell proliferation. The cell spreading, mitochondrial activity, and cell population density were significantly higher on membranes coated with fibrin than on nonmodified membranes, and this cell performance was further improved by the addition of ascorbic acid in the cell culture medium. Similarly, fibrin stimulated the expression and synthesis of collagen I in human dermal fibroblasts, and this effect was further enhanced by ascorbic acid. The expression of beta₁-integrins was also improved by fibrin, and on pure polylactide membranes, it was slightly enhanced by ascorbic acid. In addition, ascorbic acid promoted deposition of collagen I in the form of a fibrous extracellular matrix. Thus, the combination of nanofibrous membranes with a fibrin nanocoating and ascorbic acid seems to be particularly advantageous for skin tissue engineering.

The role of vitamin C in pushing back the boundaries of skin aging: an ultrasonographic approach

Background

Imagistic methods stand as modern, non-invasive, and objective means of assessing the impact of topical cutaneous therapies.

Objective

This study focuses on the evaluation, by high-frequency ultrasound, of the cutaneous changes induced by topical use of a vitamin C complex at facial level.

Methods

A vitamin C-based solution/Placebo moisturizer cream was applied at facial level of 60 healthy female subjects according to a predetermined protocol. Ultrasonographic images (Dermascan C, 20 MHz) were taken from zygomatic level initially, at 40 and 60 days after therapy. The following parameters were assessed for every subject: thickness of the epidermis and dermis (mm), the number of low (LEP), medium (MEP), high echogenic pixels (HEP), and the number of LEP in the upper dermis/lower dermis (LEPs/LEPi).

Results

LEP decreased significantly in all age categories during and after therapy, but especially in the first 2 age intervals, up to the age of 50 (P=0.0001). MEP and HEP, pixel categories that quantify protein synthesis also had an age-dependent evolution in the study, increasing significantly in all age categories but most of all in the first age interval (P=0.002). Our ultrasonographic data suggest that collagen synthesis increased significantly after topical vitamin C therapy, and is responsible for the increase in MEP and HEP and consequent decrease of the LEP.

Conclusion

Our study shows that topically applied vitamin C is highly efficient as a rejuvenation therapy, inducing significant collagen synthesis in all age groups with minimal side effects.

Ascorbic acid and sodium-dependent vitamin C transporters in the peripheral nervous system: from basic science to clinical trials

SIGNIFICANCE

Ascorbic acid and sodium-dependent vitamin C transporters (SVCT) have been shown to have important functions in the peripheral nervous system (PNS). Ascorbic acid is known to promote myelination in vitro in Schwann cell/dorsal root ganglion co-cultures by the formation of a collagen- and laminin-containing extracellular matrix.

RECENT ADVANCES

Recently, the function of ascorbic acid and SVCT2 in the PNS has been shown in vivo as well. Several studies on ascorbic acid treatment of Charcot-Marie-Tooth neuropathy 1A (CMT1A) have been completed and showed no clinical benefit.

CRITICAL ISSUES

Possible reasons for the failure of ascorbic acid in CMT1A treatment are discussed in this review. More preclinical trials, ideally using different animal models, should be considered before the initiation of clinical trials in humans. More knowledge about ascorbic acid transport kinetics and inter-individual differences in humans is necessary for future studies.

FUTURE DIRECTIONS

Further research into ascorbic acid transport mechanisms in the PNS is warranted. Especially the effects of transgenic or pharmacologic SVCT2 up-regulation on PNS myelination and remyelination will be an interesting area of research in the future. Furthermore, the potential use of ascorbic acid for peripheral neuropathies other than CMT1A would be a possible future research direction.

Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives

Topically applied antioxidants exert their benefits by offering protection from damaging free radicals and over-the-counter cosmeceuticals incorporating antioxidants are among the most popular anti-aging products available. One potent antioxidant of particular note, vitamin C, has been extensively utilized because it possesses a variety of other cutaneous benefits including photoprotection from UV A & B, neocollagenesis, inhibition of melanogenesis and improvement of a variety of inflammatory skin disorders. However, the instability of this water-soluble vitamin, together with difficulties associated with its topical delivery, has presented issues for the formulation chemist. This article reviews the scientific data and clinical studies that underpin the stability, percutaneous absorption, and cutaneous effects of vitamin C together with its commonly utilized, commercially available derivatives.

Sodium-dependent vitamin C transporter 2 deficiency causes hypomyelination and extracellular matrix defects in the peripheral nervous system

Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) is necessary for myelination of Schwann cell/neuron cocultures and has shown beneficial effects in the treatment of a Charcot-Marie-Tooth neuropathy 1A (CMT1A) mouse model. Although clinical studies revealed that ascorbic acid treatment had no impact on CMT1A, it is assumed to have an important function in peripheral nerve myelination and possibly in remyelination. However, the transport pathway of ascorbic acid into peripheral nerves and the mechanism of ascorbic acid function in peripheral nerves in vivo remained unclear. In this study, we used sodium-dependent vitamin C transporter 2-heterozygous (SVCT2(+/-)) mice to elucidate the functions of SVCT2 and ascorbic acid in the murine peripheral nervous system. SVCT2 and ascorbic acid levels were reduced in SVCT2(+/-) peripheral nerves. Morphometry of sciatic nerve fibers revealed a decrease in myelin thickness and an increase in G-ratios in SVCT2(+/-) mice. Nerve conduction velocities and sensorimotor performance in functional tests were reduced in SVCT2(+/-) mice. To investigate the mechanism of ascorbic acid function, we studied the expression of collagens in the extracellular matrix of peripheral nerves. Here, we show that expression of various collagen types was reduced in sciatic nerves of SVCT2(+/-) mice. We found that collagen gene transcription was reduced in SVCT2(+/-) mice but hydroxyproline levels were not, indicating that collagen formation was regulated on the transcriptional and not the posttranslational level. These results help to clarify the transport pathway and mechanism of action of ascorbic acid in the peripheral nervous system and may lead to novel therapeutic approaches to peripheral neuropathies by manipulation of SVCT2 function.

Common cosmeceuticals

In the cosmetic arena, many materials are used commercially and claim to provide skin effects (eg, antiaging effects) when used topically. Considering there are so many such materials and many skin appearance effects are encompassed, this short contribution must, by necessity, be selective in terms of the number of materials discussed and the depth with which any particular material is overviewed. This presentation, therefore, focuses on only 10 types of cosmeceutical agents: five vitamins (A, B(3), C, E, panthenol), peptides, hydroxyl acids, sugar amines, ceramides, and metals. In particular, this contribution concentrates on those materials for which there are available clinical data that support a reported skin appearance improvement effect.

High-dose vitamin C supplementation accelerates the Achilles tendon healing in healthy rats

INTRODUCTION

This experimental study was performed to assess, whether or not, vitamin C, required during the collagen synthesis, would influence the Achilles tendon healing in a healthy rat model.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The right Achilles tendons of 42 healthy female Wistar Albino rats were completely ruptured. The rats were randomly divided into the vitamin C and control groups and both groups included third, tenth and twenty-first day subgroups. One hundred and fifty milligrams (1.5 cc) of vitamin C and 1.5 cc % 0.9 NaCl were injected once for every 2 days for the vitamin C and control groups, respectively. Qualitative and quantitative microscopic comparisons of the repair tissues of both groups were made on the mentioned days.

RESULTS

Angiogenesis was more evident on the third day in the vitamin C group. There was a significant difference between the control and vitamin C groups regarding the type I collagen production on the tenth day. The structure of the repair tissue was almost in the form of regular dense connective tissue at the end of twenty-first day in the vitamin C group. Mean collagen fiber diameter was considerably higher, and the number of active fibroblasts in the repair tissue was slightly elevated in the vitamin C group during the entire healing process.

CONCLUSION

High-dose vitamin C supplementation once for every 2 days has stimulating effects on the Achilles tendon healing because of early angiogenesis and increased collagen synthesis in a healthy rat model. Further studies are needed to make clear the mentioned encouraging effects of the vitamin C on the Achilles tendon healing.

Interaction of vitamins C and E as better cosmeceuticals

Although many cosmeceutical formulations contain vitamin C and/or vitamin E, very few are actually effective in topical application. First because there is only a low concentration, second because the stability is compromised as soon as the product is opened and exposed to air and light, and third because the form of the molecule (an ester or a mixture of isomers) is not absorbed or metabolized effectively by the skin. However, when a stable formulation delivers a high concentration of the nonesterified, optimal isomer of the antioxidant, vitamins C and E do indeed inhibit the acute ultraviolet (UV) damage of erythema, sunburn, and tanning as well as chronic UV photoaging and skin cancer. Both are highly effective depigmenting agents. Topical vitamin C also increases collagen synthesis in both young and old fibroblasts. Because vitamin C regenerates oxidized vitamin E, the combination in a cosmeceutical formulation is synergistic - particularly in UV protection.

Synthesis of new L-ascorbic ferulic acid hybrids

A feasibility and chemical study of the coupling conditions of L-ascorbic acid with ferulic acid derivatives are described on the basis of the known synergistic effects of mixtures of various antioxidants. Novel L-ascorbic ferulic hybrids linked at the C-3 hydroxyl group were prepared with the aim to protect the alcohol function and the enediol system.

Improvement in the appearance of wrinkles with topical transforming growth factor beta(1) and l-ascorbic acid

BACKGROUND AND OBJECTIVE

Facial rhytides are a common cosmetic concern. Surgical treatment effects dramatic improvement; however, the associated risk and cost may be prohibitive. Recent focus is on developing topical products containing biologically active ingredients for at-home therapy. Our study examines the effects of a topical cream containing transforming growth factor-beta(1) (TGF-beta(1)), l-ascorbic acid, and Cimicifuga racemosa extract (CRS) (Topix Pharmaceuticals, North Amityville, NY, USA).

MATERIALS AND METHODS

In the first arm of the study, 12 subjects were randomized to apply CRS to the left or right side of their face and a cream containing l-ascorbic acid and C. racemosa in silicone base (vitamin C [Vit C]) to the contralateral side twice daily for 3 months. In the second arm of the study, 20 subjects were randomized to apply CRS to the left or right side of their face and Tissue Nutrient Solution Recovery Complex (TNS) (SkinMedica, Carlsbad, CA, USA), a product containing a variety of growth factors including VEGF, PDGF-A, G-CSF, HGF, IL-6, IL-8, and TGF-beta(1) (Nouricel-MD) without l-ascorbic acid, C. racemosa extract, or silicone base, to the contralateral side of their face twice daily for 3 months. Digital photographs were scored by study-blinded physicians, and self-assessments were completed by all subjects at baseline and at the conclusion of the protocol.

RESULTS

CRS and TNS were well tolerated, and all subjects completed the 3-month protocol for the CRS versus Vit C arm of the study. Physicians rated success in facial wrinkling scores on the CRS-treated side of the face for 27 of 31 subjects. Responders showed, on average, 21.7% improvement in physician-rated wrinkle scores. The mean improvement in the group of 31 patients as a whole was 12%. Eighteen of 31 subjects reported a noticeable improvement on their CRS-treated side. Both CRS and TNS demonstrate significant success between baseline and 3-month scores, and both growth factor products are superior to Vit C. Patients preferred CRS over TNS.

CONCLUSION

CRS is effective in minimizing the appearance of facial rhytides. The success of the CRS product is largely attributable to the incorporation of TGF-beta(1).

Final report of the safety assessment of L-Ascorbic Acid, Calcium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbate, and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate as used in cosmetics

L-Ascorbic Acid, Calcium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbate, and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate function in cosmetic formulations primarily as antioxidants. Ascorbic Acid is commonly called Vitamin C. Ascorbic Acid is used as an antioxidant and pH adjuster in a large variety of cosmetic formulations, over 3/4 of which were hair dyes and colors at concentrations between 0.3% and 0.6%. For other uses, the reported concentrations were either very low (<0.01%) or in the 5% to 10% range. Calcium Ascorbate and Magnesium Ascorbate are described as antioxidants and skin conditioning agents--miscellaneous for use in cosmetics, but are not currently used. Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate functions as an antioxidant in cosmetic products and is used at concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 3%. Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate functions as an antioxidant in cosmetics and was reported being used at concentrations from 0.001% to 3%. Sodium Ascorbate also functions as an antioxidant in cosmetics at concentrations from 0.0003% to 0.3%. Related ingredients (Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ascorbyl Dipalmitate, Ascorbyl Stearate, Erythorbic Acid, and Sodium Erythorbate) have been previously reviewed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel and found "to be safe for use as cosmetic ingredients in the present practices of good use." Ascorbic Acid is a generally recognized as safe (GRAS) substance for use as a chemical preservative in foods and as a nutrient and/or dietary supplement. Calcium Ascorbate and Sodium Ascorbate are listed as GRAS substances for use as chemical preservatives. L-Ascorbic Acid is readily and reversibly oxidized to L-dehydroascorbic acid and both forms exist in equilibrium in the body. Permeation rates of Ascorbic Acid through whole and stripped mouse skin were 3.43 +/- 0.74 microg/cm(2)/h and 33.2 +/- 5.2 microg/cm(2)/h. Acute oral and parenteral studies in mice, rats, rabbits, guinea pigs, dogs, and cats demonstrated little toxicity. Ascorbic Acid and Sodium Ascorbate acted as a nitrosation inhibitor in several food and cosmetic product studies. No compound-related clinical signs or gross or microscopic pathological effects were observed in either mice, rats, or guinea pigs in short-term studies. Male guinea pigs fed a control basal diet and given up to 250 mg Ascorbic Acid orally for 20 weeks had similar hemoglobin, blood glucose, serum iron, liver iron, and liver glycogen levels compared to control values. Male and female F344/N rats and B6C3F(1) mice were fed diets containing up to 100,000 ppm Ascorbic Acid for 13 weeks with little toxicity. Chronic Ascorbic Acid feeding studies showed toxic effects at dosages above 25 mg/kg body weight (bw) in rats and guinea pigs. Groups of male and female rats given daily doses up to 2000 mg/kg bw Ascorbic Acid for 2 years had no macro- or microscopically detectable toxic lesions. Mice given Ascorbic Acid subcutaneous and intravenous daily doses (500 to 1000 mg/kg bw) for 7 days had no changes in appetite, weight gain, and general behavior; and histological examination of various organs showed no changes. Ascorbic Acid was a photoprotectant when applied to mice and pig skin before exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. The inhibition of UV-induced suppression of contact hypersensitivity was also noted. Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate administration immediately after exposure in hairless mice significantly delayed skin tumor formation and hyperplasia induced by chronic exposure to UV radiation. Pregnant mice and rats were given daily oral doses of Ascorbic Acid up to 1000 mg/kg bw with no indications of adult-toxic, teratogenic, or fetotoxic effects. Ascorbic Acid and Sodium Ascorbate were not genotoxic in several bacterial and mammalian test systems, consistent with the antioxidant properties of these chemicals. In the presence of certain enzyme systems or metal ions, evidence of genotoxicity was seen. The National Toxicology Program (NTP) conducted a 2-year oral carcinogenesis bioassay of Ascorbic Acid (25,000 and 50,000 ppm) in F344/N rats and B6C3F(1) mice. Ascorbic Acid was not carcinogenic in either sex of both rats and mice. Inhibition of carcinogenesis and tumor growth related to Ascorbic Acid's antioxidant properties has been reported. Sodium Ascorbate has been shown to promote the development of urinary carcinomas in two-stage carcinogenesis studies. Dermal application of Ascorbic Acid to patients with radiation dermatitis and burn victims had no adverse effects. Ascorbic Acid was a photoprotectant in clinical human UV studies at doses well above the minimal erythema dose (MED). An opaque cream containing 5% Ascorbic Acid did not induce dermal sensitization in 103 human subjects. A product containing 10% Ascorbic Acid was nonirritant in a 4-day minicumulative patch assay on human skin and a facial treatment containing 10% Ascorbic Acid was not a contact sensitizer in a maximization assay on 26 humans. Because of the structural and functional similarities of these ingredients, the Panel believes that the data on one ingredient can be extrapolated to all of them. The Expert Panel attributed the finding that Ascorbic Acid was genotoxic in these few assay systems due to the presence of other chemicals, e.g., metals, or certain enzyme systems, which effectively convert Ascorbic Acid's antioxidant action to that of a pro-oxidant. When Ascorbic Acid acts as an antioxidant, the Panel concluded that Ascorbic Acid is not genotoxic. Supporting this view were the carcinogenicity studies conducted by the NTP, which demonstrated no evidence of carcinogenicity. Ascorbic Acid was found to effectively inhibit nitrosamine yield in several test systems. The Panel did review studies in which Sodium Ascorbate acted as a tumor promoter in animals. These results were considered to be related to the concentration of sodium ions and the pH of urine in the test animals. Similar effects were seen with sodium bicarbonate. Because of the concern that certain metal ions may combine with these ingredients to produce pro-oxidant activity, the Panel cautioned formulators to be certain that these ingredients are acting as antioxidants in cosmetic formulations. The Panel believed that the clinical experience in which Ascorbic Acid was used on damaged skin with no adverse effects and the repeat-insult patch test (RIPT) using 5% Ascorbic Acid with negative results supports the finding that this group of ingredients does not present a risk of skin sensitization. These data coupled with an absence of reports in the clinical literature of Ascorbic Acid sensitization strongly support the safety of these ingredients.

Topical vitamin C: a useful agent for treating photoaging and other dermatologic conditions

BACKGROUND

Cosmeceuticals containing antioxidants are among the most popular antiaging remedies. Topically applied antioxidants exert their benefits by offering protection from damaging free radicals produced when skin is exposed to ultraviolet light or allowed to age naturally. Vitamin C is a naturally occurring potent water-soluble antioxidant. Accordingly, it has been incorporated into a variety of cosmeceuticals designed to protect and rejuvenate photoaged skin.

OBJECTIVE

This article reviews the scientific data and clinical studies supporting the use of topically applied vitamin C for treating photoaged skin. Other innovative uses for vitamin C cosmeceuticals are also discussed.

CONCLUSION

A significant body of scientific research supports the use of cosmeceuticals containing vitamin C. Cutaneous benefits include promoting collagen synthesis, photoprotection from ultraviolet A and B, lightening hyperpigmentation, and improvement of a variety of inflammatory dermatoses. Because of the diverse biologic effects of this compound, topical vitamin C has become a useful part of the dermatologist's armamentarium.