Hair Cosmetics: Dyes

Biomonitoring of Potentially Toxic Elements in Dyed Hairs and Its Correlation with Variables of Interest

Hair is good bioindicator of exposure, due to its ability to store and retain trace elements for long periods of time. But it can be especially useful when hair dyes are used since they may contain potentially toxic salts in their composition. In this context, analytical methods for the determination of bismuth, cadmium, lead, and silver in scalp human hair by electrothermal atomic absorption spectrometry were successfully validated. A total of 60 samples obtained from women between 18 and 60 years were analyzed: 34 dyed hairs and 26 untreated hairs (control). Average results expressed in dry weight (dyed/control) for each element were 2.34/0.49 μg g-1 (silver), 0.142/0.139 μg g-1 (bismuth), 0.055/0.054 μg g-1 (cadmium), and 2.09/0.99 μg g-1 (lead), respectively. These results agreed with those previously reported for non-exposed populations. A statistically significant higher Ag concentration in dyed hairs was observed, suggesting the bioaccumulation of this element. The associations between metal concentration and variables of interest (age, education, smoking habit, dye brand, use of dietary supplements) were investigated. A strong Pearson correlation was found for the pair Ag/Pb (r = 0.494, p < 0.05). Also, strong associations between lead levels and all the selected variables were observed (p < 0.05), while strong associations between silver levels with age and dye brand and association between cadmium levels and smoking habit were found. Furthermore, several commercial hair dye brands were analyzed to verify compliance with cosmetic regulations. This constitutes the first study of such characteristics performed in Uruguay, with worldwide relevance.

Mechanisms of impairment in hair and scalp induced by hair dyeing and perming and potential interventions

With the rapid growth of beauty and personal care industries, many hair-relevant products, hair dyes and hair perms in particular, are increasingly prevalent in both women and men, regardless of being young or old as they frequently change hair color or shape to enhance youthfulness and beauty and to follow fashion trends. Hair dyes and perms alter hair color and/or shape by mechanically changing the physical structure and chemical substances of the hair shaft. However, treatment of hair with chemical formulations has been potentially ascribed to adverse outcomes in the hair shaft including structure damage, chemical constituent disorder, and impaired physical properties, although hair cosmetics procedures are intrinsically safe. Nevertheless, the mechanisms of impairment in the hair shaft and scalp induced by hair dyeing and perming remain elusive. Additionally, adverse reactions activated by exposure to specific chemical ingredients including skin irritation, allergic contact dermatitis (ACD), and even cancer risk have been reported clinically, but existing evidence is not consistent enough in the case of human studies. Herein, the review aims to give an overview of hair cosmetics, especially concerning the basic knowledge about various hair dyes and perms, the consequences for hair shafts and the scalp resulting from the application of hair cosmetics mentioned above, mechanisms of hazardous outcomes, and potential desirable interventions to alleviate the impairment.

Polyphenols Coordinated with Cu (II) in an Aqueous System Build Ion-Channel Coatings on Hair Surfaces

Recently, developments in the field of cosmetics have led to a renewed interest in hair dyeing. However, damage to the hair during the dyeing process has increased hesitation in attempting hair dyeing. As a result, hair dyes with minimal side effects have been in constant demand, and are being developed. In this study, natural-extract polyphenols, pyrogallol, and gallic acid are coordinated by CuCl₂ in a NaCl aqueous solution to form an oligomer, which creates an ion-channel coating on the hair surface to protect it. This work attempts to develop fast, simple, and damage-free hair-dye ingredients based on pyrogallol and gallic acid. The morphology and elements of polyphenols coated on hair are characterized. The results reveal that the hair is dyed with the polyphenol-based dye reagent successfully. Moreover, the thickness of the dyed hair continuously rises ten times after dyeing. The tensile strength of the dyed hair is also measured, showing an upward and downward trend. These results reflect the fact that pyrogallol and gallic acid are considered to be the essential and functional polyphenols, and can build ion blocks on hair, which can create new multifunctional coating materials.

Nanomaterials in hair care and treatment

Hair care and treatment has evolved significantly through the years as new formulations are continuously being explored in an attempt to meet the demand in cosmetic and medicinal fields. While standard hair care procedures include hair washing, aimed at hair cleansing and maintenance, as well as hair dyeing and bleaching formulations for hair embellishment, modern hair treatments are mainly focused on circumventing hair loss conditions, strengthening hair follicle properties and treat hair infestations. In this regard, active compounds (ACs) included in hair cosmetic formulations include a vast array of hair cleansing and hair dye molecules, and typical hair treatments include anti-hair loss ACs (e.g. minoxidil and finasteride) and anti-lice ACs (e.g. permethrin). However, several challenges still persist, as conventional AC formulations exhibit sub-optimal performance and some may present toxicity issues, calling for an improved design of formulations regarding both efficacy and safety. More recently, nano-based strategies encompassing nanomaterials have emerged as promising tailored approaches to improve the performance of ACs incorporated into hair cosmetics and treatment formulations. The interest in using these nanomaterials is based on account of their ability to: (1) increase stability, safety and biocompatibility of ACs; (2) maximize hair affinity, contact and retention, acting as versatile biointerfaces; (3) enable the controlled release of ACs in both hair and scalp, serving as prolonged AC reservoirs; besides offering (4) hair follicle targeting features attending to the possibility of surface tunability. This review covers the breakthrough of nanomaterials for hair cosmetics and hair treatment, focusing on organic nanomaterials (polymer-based and lipid-based nanoparticles) and inorganic nanomaterials (nanosheets, nanotubes and inorganic nanoparticles), as well as their applications, highlighting their potential as innovative multifunctional nanomaterials towards maximized hair care and treatment. STATEMENT OF SIGNIFICANCE: This manuscript is focused on reviewing the nanotechnological strategies investigated for hair care and treatment so far. While conventional formulations exhibit sub-optimal performance and some may present toxicity issues, the selection of improved and suitable nanodelivery systems is of utmost relevance to ensure a proper active ingredient release in both hair and scalp, maximize hair affinity, contact and retention, and provide hair follicle targeting features, warranting stability, efficacy and safety. This innovative manuscript highlights the advantages of nanotechnology-based approaches, particularly as tunable and versatile biointerfaces, and their applications as innovative multifunctional nanomaterials towards maximized hair care and treatment.

Improved radiocarbon analyses of modern human hair to determine the year-of-death by cross-flow nanofiltered amino acids: common contaminants, implications for isotopic analysis, and recommendations

RATIONALE

In forensic investigation, radiocarbon ((14)C) measurements of human tissues (i.e., nails and hair) can help determine the year-of-death. However, the frequent use of cosmetics can bias hair (14)C results as well as stable isotope values. Evidence shows that hair exogenous impurities percolate beyond the cuticle layer, and therefore conventional pretreatments are ineffective in removing them.

METHODS

We conducted isotopic analysis ((14)C, δ(13)C, δ(15)N and C/N) of conventionally treated and cross-flow nanofiltered amino acid (CFNAA)-treated samples (scalp- and body-hair) from a single female subject using fingernails as a reference. The subject studied frequently applies a permanent dark-brown dye kit to her scalp-hair and uses other care products for daily cleansing. We also performed pyrolysis-gas chromatography/mass spectrometry (Py-GC/MS) analyses of CFNAA-treated scalp-hair to identify contaminant remnants that could possibly interfere with isotopic analyses.

RESULTS

The conventionally treated scalp- and body-hair showed (14)C offsets of ~21‰ and ~9‰, respectively. These offsets confirm the contamination by petrochemicals in modern human hair. A single CFNAA extraction reduced those offsets by ~34%. No significant improvement was observed when sequential extractions were performed, as it appears that the procedure introduced some foreign contaminants. A chromatogram of the CFNAA scalp-hair pyrolysis products showed the presence of petroleum and plant/animal compound residues, which can bias isotopic analyses.

CONCLUSIONS

We have demonstrated that CFNAA extractions can partially remove cosmetic contaminants embedded in human hair. We conclude that fingernails are still the best source of keratin protein for year-of-death determinations and isotopic analysis, with body-hair and/or scalp-hair coupled with CFNAA extraction a close second.