Active ingredients against human epidermal aging

A study on the anti-senescent effects of flavones derived from Prinsepia utilis Royle seed residue

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Prinsepia utilis Royle, also known as the Anas fruit, is a unique perennial woody oil plant from Yunnan Province, China. In the ancient texts of Dongba sutras and Yunnan Southern Materia Medica, it has been documented that the local Naxi, Tibetan, and Mosuo communities extensively utilize the root and leaf fruits of green thorns for various purposes. These include treating mild-to-moderate specific dermatitis, moisturising the skin, providing protection against UV damage, aiding childbirth in pregnant women, safeguarding stomach health, reducing the risk of arteriosclerosis, and delaying aging.

AIM OF THE STUDY

In this study, leftover residues from oil extraction were efficiently reused, and flavonoids were identified during subsequent extraction and separation processes. The anti-senescent effects of flavonoids in P. utilis Royle have not been systematically studied. Therefore, the objective of this study was to explore the anti-senescent properties of the flavonoids obtained from P. utilis Royle.

METHODS

First, HPLC and other analytical techniques were used to identify the components of the P. utilis Royle flavonoid (PURF). Next, DPPH, hydroxyl radicals, superoxide anion O2-, collagenase, and elastase were initially detected using in vitro biochemical assays. To examine its antioxidant properties, a zebrafish model was used, and to confirm its anti-senescent effects, a d-galactose-induced mouse aging model was employed. The anti-senescent mechanism of PURF was examined using a natural senescence HFF model. Furthermore, the anti-senescent target was confirmed using a 3D full T-Skin™ model.

RESULTS

In vitro biochemical assays demonstrated that flavones exhibited potent antioxidant activity and anti-senescent potential by inhibiting DPPH, hydroxyl radicals, superoxide anion O2-, collagenase, and elastase. It significantly enhanced the antioxidant effect on zebrafish while suppressing ROS and inflammatory injury, up-regulating COL1A1, COL3A1, AMPK, and mTOR gene expression and down-regulating MMP-9, TGF-β, p21, and p16 gene expression suggesting its potential anti-senescent ability. Findings from the D-galactose-induced aging mouse model showed that PURF greatly increased SOD levels, while simultaneously decreasing HYP and MDA levels. In addition, when PURF was given to the HFF cell and 3D full T-Skin™ model, consistent trends were observed in gene and protein expression, with up-regulation of COL1A1, COL3A1, AMPK, and mTOR genes and down-regulation of TGF-β, MMP-1, MMP-9, p21, and p16 genes. Therefore, these preliminary findings indicate that flavones can modulate AMPK/mTOR/TGF-β signalling pathways to exert its influence.

CONCLUSION

The kernel residue of natural P. utilis Royle oil extracted from Yunnan province was previously considered agricultural waste, but we successfully extracted and isolated its flavonoid components. Our preliminary studies demonstrated its potential as an environmentally friendly anti-senescent raw material.

Unraveling the Functional Heterogeneity of Human Skin at Single-Cell Resolution

The skin consists of several cell populations, including epithelial, immune, and stromal cells. Recently, there has been a significant increase in single-cell RNA-sequencing studies, contributing to the development of a consensus Human Skin Cell Atlas. The aim is to understand skin biology better and identify potential therapeutic targets. The present review utilized previously published single-cell RNA-sequencing datasets to explore human skin's cellular and functional heterogeneity. Additionally, it summarizes the functional significance of newly identified cell subpopulations in processes such as wound healing and aging.

Elimination of damaged mitochondria during UVB-induced senescence is orchestrated by NIX-dependent mitophagy

Skin aging is the result of two types of aging, "intrinsic aging" an inevitable consequence of physiologic and genetically determined changes and "extrinsic aging," which is dependent on external factors such as exposure to sunlight, smoking, and dietary habits. UVB causes skin injury through the generation of free radicals and other oxidative byproducts, also contributing to DNA damage. Appearance and accumulation of senescent cells in the skin are considered one of the hallmarks of aging in this tissue. Mitochondria play an important role for the development of cellular senescence, in particular stress-induced senescence of human cells. However, many aspects of mitochondrial physiology relevant to cellular senescence and extrinsic skin aging remain to be unraveled. Here, we demonstrate that mitochondria damaged by UVB irradiation of human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) are eliminated by NIX-dependent mitophagy and that this process is important for cell survival under these conditions. Additionally, UVB-irradiation of human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) induces the shedding of extracellular vesicles (EVs), and this process is significantly enhanced in UVB-irradiated NIX-depleted cells. Our findings establish NIX as the main mitophagy receptor in the process of UVB-induced senescence and suggest the release of EVs as an alternative mechanism of mitochondrial quality control in HDF.

Skin- and Eco-Friendly Hand Sanitizer: A Novel Composition of Natural Extracts to Prevent the Spread of Respiratory Viruses

Respiratory diseases caused by viruses are a serious global health threat. Although the use of hand sanitizers containing alcohol and synthetic antiseptic agents is recognized as an effective, simple, and low-cost measure to combat viral transmission, they can harm human health and the environment. Thus, this work aimed to study the efficacy of combining Camellia sinensis and Chamomilla recutita extracts in a skin- and eco-friendly leave-on hand sanitizer to prevent the spread of respiratory viruses. An oil-in-water emulsion containing C. recutita oily extract (5.0%), C. recutita glycolic extract (0.2%) and C. sinensis glycolic extract (5.0%) showed virucidal activity against HAdV-2 (respiratory virus) and two surrogate viruses of SARS-CoV-2 (HSV-1 and MVH-3), showing great potential to prevent the spread of respiratory viruses. These natural extracts combined are also promising to combat a broad spectrum of other viruses, in the form of antiseptic mouthwashes or throat sprays, surface disinfectants, and veterinary products, among others. Complementally, the developed hand sanitizer demonstrated efficacy against bacteria and fungus.

Distribution, Chemical Constituents and Biological Properties of Genus Malaxis

The genus Malaxis (family Orchidaceae), comprises nearly 183 species available across the globe. The plants of this genus have long been employed in traditional medical practices because of their numerous biological properties, like the treatment of infertility, hemostasis, burning sensation, bleeding diathesis, fever, diarrhea, dysentery, febrifuge, tuberculosis, etc. Various reports highlight their phytochemical composition and biological activities. However, there is a lack of systematic review on the distribution, phytochemistry, and biological properties of this genus. Hence, this study aims to conduct a thorough and critical review of Malaxis species, covering data published from 1965 to 2022 with nearly 90 articles. Also, it examines different bioactive compounds, their chemistry, and pharmacotherapeutics as well as their traditional uses. A total of 189 unique compounds, including the oil constituents were recorded from Malaxis species. The highest active ingredients were obtained from Malaxis acuminata (103) followed by Malaxis muscifera (49) and Malaxis rheedei (33). In conclusion, this review offers an overview of the current state of knowledge on Malaxis species and highlights prospects for future research projects on them. Additionally, it recommends the promotion of domestication studies for rare medicinal orchids like Malaxis and the prompt implementation of conservation measures.

Hacking the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients List- How to Read Ingredients in Cosmetic Products and What Is Important for a Dermatologist to Know?

Skin specialists and practitioners are commonly requested to recommend on cosmetic products to improve skin appearance and address certain "non-medical" concerns. During residency and further education, dermatologists rarely expand their knowledge regarding cosmetic ingredients, except if they are a cause of medical condition or disease, such as contact dermatitis. This review provides guidelines to the INCI list structure, together with basic principles of cosmetic products formulation.

Mesenchymal stem cell-derived exosomes and skin photoaging: From basic research to practical application

BACKGROUND

Skin photoaging is a condition caused by long-term exposure to ultraviolet irradiation, resulting in a variety of changes in the skin, such as capillary dilation, increased or absent pigmentation, dryness, sagging, and wrinkles. Stem cells possess a remarkable antioxidant capacity and the ability to proliferate, differentiate, and migrate, and their main mode of action is through paracrine secretion, with exosomes being the primary form of secretion. Stem cell-derived exosomes contain a variety of growth factors and cytokines and may have great potential to promote skin repair and delay skin ageing.

METHODS

This review focuses on the mechanisms of UV-induced skin photoaging, the research progress of stem cell exosomes against skin photoaging, emerging application approaches and limitations in the application of exosome therapy.

RESULT

Exosomes derived from various stem cells have the potential to prevent skin photoaging.

CONCLUSION

The combination with novel materials may be a key step for their practical application, which could be an important direction for future basic research and practical applications.

Molecular insights of human skin epidermal and dermal aging

Human skin is the most widespread and abundant type of tissue in the human body. With the passage of time, most of our organs, including a substantial part of the skin, tend to undergo a gradual thinning or decrease in size. As we age, there is a gradual and progressive reduction in the thickness of both the epidermis and dermis layers of our skin. This is primarily attributed to the decline of epidermal stem cells and the loss of dermal collagen, which is the most abundant protein in the human body. Age-related alterations of the epidermis and dermis impair skin structure/function and create a tissue microenvironment that promotes age-related skin diseases, such as impaired skin barrier, delayed wound healing, and skin cancer development. This review will examine the current body of literature pertaining to our knowledge of skin epidermal and dermal aging.

Current Insights into the Formulation and Delivery of Therapeutic and Cosmeceutical Agents for Aging Skin

“Successful aging” counters the traditional idea of aging as a disease and is increasingly equated with minimizing age signs on the skin, face, and body. From this stems the interest in preventative aesthetic dermatology that might help with the healthy aging of skin, help treat or prevent certain cutaneous disorders, such as skin cancer, and help delay skin aging by combining local and systemic methods of therapy, instrumental devices, and invasive procedures. This review will discuss the main mechanisms of skin aging and the potential mechanisms of action for commercial products already on the market, highlighting the issues related to the permeation of the skin from different classes of compounds, the site of action, and the techniques employed to overcome aging. The purpose is to give an overall perspective on the main challenges in formulation development, especially nanoparticle formulations, which aims to defeat or slow down skin aging, and to highlight new market segments, such as matrikines and matrikine-like peptides. In conclusion, by applying enabling technologies such as those delivery systems outlined here, existing agents can be repurposed or fine-tuned, and traditional but unproven treatments can be optimized for efficacious dosing and safety.

Flower Extracts from Ornamental Plants as Sources of Sunscreen Ingredients: Determination by In Vitro Methods of Photoprotective Efficacy, Antigenotoxicity and Safety

Plants are sources of sunscreen ingredients that prevent cellular mutations involved in skin cancer and aging. This study investigated the sunscreen properties of the extracts from some ornamental plants growing in Colombia. The UV filter capability of the flower extracts obtained from Rosa centifolia L., Posoqueria latifolia (Rudge) Schult, and Ipomoea horsfalliae Hook. was examined. Photoprotection efficacies were evaluated using in vitro indices such as sun protection factor and critical wavelength. UVB antigenotoxicity estimates measured with the SOS Chromotest were also obtained. Extract cytotoxicity and genotoxicity were studied in human fibroblasts using the trypan blue exclusion and Comet assays, respectively. Major compounds of the promising flower extracts were identified by UHPLC–ESI+–Orbitrap–MS. The studied extracts showed high photoprotection efficacy and antigenotoxicity against UVB radiation, but only the P. latifolia extract showed broad-spectrum photoprotection at non-cytotoxic concentrations. The P. latifolia extract appeared to be safer for human fibroblast cells and the R. centifolia extract was shown to be moderately cytotoxic and genotoxic at the highest assayed concentrations. The I. horsfalliae extract was unequivocally cytotoxic and genotoxic. The major constituents of the promising extracts were as follows: chlorogenic acid, ecdysterone 20E, rhamnetin-rutinoside, cis-resveratrol-diglucoside, trans-resveratrol-diglucoside in P. latifolia; quercetin, quercetin-glucoside, quercetin-3-rhamnoside, kaempferol, kaempferol-3-glucoside, and kaempferol-rhamnoside in R. centifolia. The potential of the ornamental plants as sources of sunscreen ingredients was discussed.

Phytochemical and Potential Properties of Seaweeds and Their Recent Applications: A Review

Since ancient times, seaweeds have been employed as source of highly bioactive secondary metabolites that could act as key medicinal components. Furthermore, research into the biological activity of certain seaweed compounds has progressed significantly, with an emphasis on their composition and application for human and animal nutrition. Seaweeds have many uses: they are consumed as fodder, and have been used in medicines, cosmetics, energy, fertilizers, and industrial agar and alginate biosynthesis. The beneficial effects of seaweed are mostly due to the presence of minerals, vitamins, phenols, polysaccharides, and sterols, as well as several other bioactive compounds. These compounds seem to have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-cancer, antimicrobial, and anti-diabetic activities. Recent advances and limitations for seaweed bioactive as a nutraceutical in terms of bioavailability are explored in order to better comprehend their therapeutic development. To further understand the mechanism of action of seaweed chemicals, more research is needed as is an investigation into their potential usage in pharmaceutical companies and other applications, with the ultimate objective of developing sustainable and healthier products. The objective of this review is to collect information about the role of seaweeds on nutritional, pharmacological, industrial, and biochemical applications, as well as their impact on human health.

Effect of Grass Carp Scale Collagen Peptide FTGML on cAMP-PI3K/Akt and MAPK Signaling Pathways in B16F10 Melanoma Cells and Correlation between Anti-Melanin and Antioxidant Properties

Peptide Phe-Thr-Gly-Met-Leu (FTGML) is a bioactive oligopeptide with tyrosinase inhibitory activity derived from gelatin hydrolysate of grass carp scales. Previous studies have shown that FTGML addition can effectively inhibit mushroom tyrosinase activity in vitro, and also has some effect on the inhibition of melanogenesis in zebrafish in vivo, but the underlying mechanism is not fully understood. In this study, we used FTGML to treat B16F10 melanoma cells, and found a significant inhibition of tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis. Interestingly, the treatment showed a strong correlation between antioxidant activity and anti-melanin, which was associated with FTGML reducing the involvement of reactive oxygen species in melanin synthesis. Furthermore, FTGML reduced melanogenesis in B16F10 cells by downregulating the cAMP-PI3K/Akt and MAPK pathways (p38 and JNK). These results suggested that FTGML can reduce melanin production in mouse B16F10 melanoma cells through multiple pathways.

Dermocosmetic applications of microalgal pigments

Among photosynthetic microorganisms, Cyanobacteria and Microalgae species have been highly studied thank to their high value-added compounds for several industrial applications. Thus, their production is increasing in the last decade to produce raw material for cosmetics. In fact, the daily routine includes the use of cosmetics and sunscreens to protect against the environmental changes, mainly the increment of ultraviolet (UV) radiation rate with a consequent skin damage and premature aging due to this overexposure. As it is well discussed, chemical UV filters are extensively incorporated into sunscreens formulas; however, they can induce allergenic reactions as well. For these reasons, some pigments derived from microalgae, such as astaxanthin, lutein, β-carotene as well as other biocompounds are now well described in the literature as well as biotechnologically manufactured as natural ingredients to be incorporated into skin care products with multifunctional benefits even for sunscreen purposes. Hence, this investigation summarizes the recent studies about the main pigments from photosynthetic microorganisms' biomasses as well as their uses in dermocosmetics with novel attributes, such as anti-aging agents, makeups, skin lightening and whitening, among others.

Propanediol (and) Caprylic Acid (and) Xylitol as a New Single Topical Active Ingredient against Acne: In Vitro and In Vivo Efficacy Assays

In addition to dermatological complications, acne can affect the quality of life of individuals in numerous ways, such as employment, social habits and body dissatisfaction. According to our expertise, caprylic acid and propanediol would not have a direct action on Cutibacterium acnes. Despite this, we investigated the existence of a synergistic effect among xylitol, caprylic acid and propanediol as a mixture of compounds representing a single topical active ingredient that could benefit the treatment against acne. In vitro and in vivo assays were performed to challenge and to prove the efficacy of propanediol, xylitol and caprylic acid (PXCA) against acne. PXCA had its MIC challenged against C. acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes) and Staphylococcus aureus, resulting in concentrations of 0.125% and 0.25%, respectively, and it also developed antimicrobial activity against C. acnes (time-kill test). PXCA was able to reduce the 5-alpha reductase expression in 24% (p < 0.01) in comparison with the testosterone group. By the end of 28 days of treatment, the compound reduced the skin oiliness, porphyrin amount and the quantity of inflammatory lesions in participants. According to the dermatologist evaluation, PXCA improved the skin's general appearance, acne presence and size.

Applying Seaweed Compounds in Cosmetics, Cosmeceuticals and Nutricosmetics

The interest in seaweeds for cosmetic, cosmeceutics, and nutricosmetics is increasing based on the demand for natural ingredients. Seaweeds offer advantages in relation to their renewable character, wide distribution, and the richness and versatility of their valuable bioactive compounds, which can be used as ingredients, as additives, and as active agents in the formulation of skin care products. Bioactive compounds, such as polyphenols, polysaccharides, proteins, peptides, amino acids, lipids, vitamins, and minerals, are responsible for the biological properties associated with seaweeds. Seaweed fractions can also offer technical features, such as thickening, gelling, emulsifying, texturizing, or moistening to develop cohesive matrices. Furthermore, the possibility of valorizing industrial waste streams and algal blooms makes them an attractive, low cost, raw and renewable material. This review presents an updated summary of the activities of different seaweed compounds and fractions based on scientific and patent literature.

Natural Ingredients Common in the Trás-os-Montes Region (Portugal) for Use in the Cosmetic Industry: A Review about Chemical Composition and Antigenotoxic Properties

The natural cosmetics market has grown since consumers became aware of the concept of natural-based ingredients. A significant number of cosmetics have an ecological impact on the environment and carry noxious and chemically potent substances. Thus, the use of natural and organic cosmetics becomes increasingly important since it is clear that topical treatment with cosmeceuticals can help improve skin rejuvenation. A substantial investigation into the benefits that fruits and plants can bring to health is required. Studies have shown that antigenotoxic properties are linked to anti-aging properties. Several studies have shown potential antigenotoxicity in natural ingredients such as Almonds (Prunus dulcis), Elderberry (Sambucus nigra), Olives (Olea europaea), and Grapes (Vitis vinifera). This review presents an overview of research conducted on these natural ingredients, the most common in the Northeast of Portugal. This region of Portugal possesses the most organic farmers, and ingredients are easily obtained. The Northeast of Portugal also has climatic, topographic, and pedological differences that contribute to agricultural diversity.

The pleiotropic effects of Prunus avium L. extract against oxidative stress on human fibroblasts. An in vitro approach

There is a persistent interest in innovative and multifunctional ingredients in biology research. With regards to this, natural sources have an important role due to their multiple benefits. Thus, this study aims to present the pleiotropic activity of Prunus avium L. extract on human primary fibroblasts for proving its efficacy in dermis-related processes. We focused on the safety and efficacy assessments based on cytotoxicity and gene expression analysis under oxidative stress. Specifically, Prunus avium L. extract was proved non-cytotoxic in human fibroblasts. The gene expression analysis unveiled that this extract has in vitro protective properties on human dermal fibroblasts under oxidative stress related to antioxidant activity, anti-inflammatory response, cell proliferation and cell- aging. Our study demonstrated for the very first time that the Prunus avium L. extract is a multifunctional ingredient as it mediates several human dermis-related in vitro processes highlighting its potential to be used as an active ingredient in skin care products.

Role of Molecular Hydrogen in Skin Diseases and its Impact in Beauty

In today's society, healthy skin and a beautiful appearance are considered the foundation of general well-being. The skin is the largest organ of the body and plays an important role in protecting it against various hazards such as environmental, physical, chemical, and biological hazards. These factors include mediators that lead to oxidation reactions that produce reactive oxygen/nitrogen species and additional oxidants in the skin cells. An increase in oxidants beyond the antioxidant capacity of its defense system causes oxidative stress and chronic inflammation in the body. This response can cause further disruption of collagen fibers and hinder the functioning of skin cells that may result in the development of various skin diseases including psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, and aging. In this review, we summarized the present information related to the role of oxidative stress in the pathogenesis of dermatological disorders, and its impact on physical beauty and the daily lives of patients. We also discussed how molecular hydrogen exhibits a therapeutic effect against skin diseases via its effects on oxidative stress. Furthermore, findings from this summary review indicate that molecular hydrogen might be an effective treatment modality for the prevention and treatment of skin-related illnesses.

Photochemoprotective Potential of the Ethyl Acetate Fraction from Eugenia hiemalis Leaves and Its 2,6-Di-O-galloylarbutin Isolate Against UVB-Induced Photodamage

Intense and constant exposure to UVB radiation can lead to inflammation and oxidative stress, which are associated with many cutaneous disorders, including photoaging and skin cancer. Antioxidant plant materials that are rich in polyphenols, such as the ethyl acetate fraction (EAF) from Eugenia hiemalis leaves, and phenolic compounds represent a promising approach to protect the skin against UVB-induced damage. The present study evaluated the photochemoprotective potential of the EAF and its 2,6-di-O-galloylarbutin (1) isolate. The EAF and the phenolic antioxidant (1) reduced UVB-induced L929 fibroblast death. The EAF prevented UVB-induced damage in fibroblasts by inhibiting the intracellular production of reactive oxygen species and lipid peroxidation, especially in pretreated cells. Topical treatment with an emulsion with 1% EAF prevented/attenuated UVB-induced inflammation and oxidative stress in the skin in hairless mice by controlling the increase in myeloperoxidase activity, reducing superoxide anion production, maintaining radical-scavenging ability and ferric reducing power, and controlling the depletion of reduced glutathione and catalase levels. The EAF also inhibited the increase in epidermal thickness, mast cell infiltration, the number of sunburn cells and collagen fiber destruction that were triggered by UVB. The in vitro and in vivo results indicated that the EAF is a bioactive agent that is able to protect the skin against the harmful effects of UVB.

Potential of Pre-Harvest Wastes of Tobacco (Nicotiana tabacum L.) Crops, Grown for Smoke Products, as Source of Bioactive Compounds (Phenols and Flavonoids)

Tobacco cultivation is characterized by high amounts of waste biomasses whose disposal frequently represents a complex and expensive problem. A study was conducted to evaluate thepotential of pre-harvest light air-cured (Burley) and dark fire-cured (Kentucky) tobacco waste biomasses as a source of bioactive compounds (nutraceutical ingredients) such as polyphenols. Pre-harvest waste materials (topping fresh materials and residual stalks at final harvest) were collected to determine dry matter, total polyphenols content (TPC; Folin assay), and DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) and ABTS (2,20-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-60-sulfonic acid) diammonium salt) antioxidant capacity. Polyphenols quali-quantitative profiles obtained by Orbitrap Q Exactive of both tobacco types were also determined. Total pre-harvest waste biomass amounted to 3956.9 and 1304.4 kg d.w. ha−1 in light air-cured (Burley) and dark fire-cured (Kentucky) tobacco types, respectively. Polyphenols content, expressed as g kg−1 dry weight (d.w.), ranged between 4.6 and 15.7 g kg−1 d.w. and was generally greater in leaves than in stalks. Considering both leaves and stalks, the light air-cured (Burley) tobacco crop yielded 22.1 kg ha−1 of polyphenols, while the dark fire-cured (Kentucky) tobacco yielded 12.0 kg ha−1. DPPH and ABTS were significantly greater in leaves than in stalks waste biomass in both types of tobacco. The most abundant components were quinic and chlorogenic acids, rutin, and luteolin rutinoside.

The Skin Interactome: A Holistic "Genome-Microbiome-Exposome" Approach to Understand and Modulate Skin Health and Aging

Higher demands on skin care cosmetic products for strong performance drive intense research to understand the mechanisms of skin aging and design strategies to improve overall skin health. Today we know that our needs and influencers of skin health and skin aging change throughout our life journey due to both extrinsic factors, such as environmental factors and lifestyle factors, as well as our intrinsic factors. Furthermore, we need to consider our microflora, a collection of micro-organisms such as bacteria, viruses, and fungi, which is a living ecosystem in our gut and on our skin, that can have a major impact on our health. Here, we are viewing a holistic approach to understand the collective effect of the key influencers of skin health and skin aging both reviewing how each of them impact the skin, but more importantly to identify molecular conjunction pathways of these different factors in order to get a better understanding of the integrated “genome-microbiome-exposome” effect. For this purpose and in order to translate molecularly the impact of the key influencers of skin health and skin aging, we built a digital model based on system biology using different bioinformatics tools. This model is considering both the positive and negative impact of our genome (genes, age/gender), exposome: external (sun, pollution, climate) and lifestyle factors (sleep, stress, exercise, nutrition, skin care routine), as well as the role of our skin microbiome, and allowed us in a first application to evaluate the effect of the genome in the synthesis of collagen in the skin and the determination of a suitable target for boosting pro-collagen synthesis. In conclusion, we have, through our digital holistic approach, defined the skin interactome concept, as an advanced tool to better understand the molecular genesis of skin aging and further develop a strategy to balance the influence of the exposome and microbiome to protect, prevent, and delay the appearance of skin aging signs and preserve good skin health condition. In addition, this model will aid in identifying and optimizing skin treatment options based on external triggers, as well as helping to design optimal treatments modulating the intrinsic pathways.

A Single-Cell Transcriptomic Atlas of Human Skin Aging

Skin undergoes constant self-renewal, and its functional decline is a visible consequence of aging. Understanding human skin aging requires in-depth knowledge of the molecular and functional properties of various skin cell types. We performed single-cell RNA sequencing of human eyelid skin from healthy individuals across different ages and identified eleven canonical cell types, as well as six subpopulations of basal cells. Further analysis revealed progressive accumulation of photoaging-related changes and increased chronic inflammation with age. Transcriptional factors involved in the developmental process underwent early-onset decline during aging. Furthermore, inhibition of key transcription factors HES1 in fibroblasts and KLF6 in keratinocytes not only compromised cell proliferation, but also increased inflammation and cellular senescence during aging. Lastly, we found that genetic activation of HES1 or pharmacological treatment with quercetin alleviated cellular senescence of dermal fibroblasts. These findings provide a single-cell molecular framework of human skin aging, providing a rich resource for developing therapeutic strategies against aging-related skin disorders.

Application of adipose-derived stem cells in photoaging: basic science and literature review

Photoaging is mainly induced by continuous exposure to sun light, causing multiple unwanted skin characters and accelerating skin aging. Adipose-derived stem cells(ADSCs) are promising in supporting skin repair because of their significant antioxidant capacity and strong proliferation, differentiation, and migration ability, as well as their enriched secretome containing various growth factors and cytokines. The identification of the mechanisms by which ADSCs perform these functions for photoaging has great potential to explore therapeutic applications and combat skin aging. We also review the basic mechanisms of UV-induced skin aging and recent improvement in pre-clinical applications of ADSCs associated with photoaging. Results showed that ADSCs are potential to address photoaging problem and might treat skin cancer. Compared with ADSCs alone, the secretome-based approaches and different preconditionings of ADSCs are more promising to overcome the current limitations and enhance the anti-photoaging capacity.

Proteomics reveals that quinoa bioester promotes replenishing effects in epidermal tissue

The continuous search for natural products that attenuate age-related losses has increasingly gained notice; among them, those applicable for skin care have drawn significant attention. The bioester generated from the Chenopodium quinoa’s oil is a natural-origin ingredient described to produce replenishing skin effects. With this as motivation, we used shotgun proteomics to study the effects of quinoa bioester on human reconstructed epidermis tridimensional cell cultures after 0, 3, 6, 12, 24, and 48 h of exposure. Our experimental setup employed reversed-phase nano-chromatography coupled online with an Orbitrap-XL and PatternLab for proteomics as the data analysis tool. Extracted ion chromatograms were obtained as surrogates for relative peptide quantitation. Our findings spotlight proteins with increased abundance, as compared to the untreated cell culture counterparts at the same timepoints, that were related to preventing premature aging, homeostasis, tissue regeneration, protection against ultraviolet radiation and oxidative damage.

Antioxidants as an Epidermal Stem Cell Activator

Antioxidants may modulate the microenvironment of epidermal stem cells by reducing the production of reactive oxygen species or by regulating the expression of extracellular matrix protein. The extracellular membrane is an important component of the stem cell niche, and microRNAs regulate extracellular membrane-mediated basal keratinocyte proliferation. In this narrative review, we will discuss several antioxidants such as ascorbic acid, plant extracts, peptides and hyaluronic acid, and their effect on the epidermal stem cell niche and the proliferative potential of interfollicular epidermal stem cells in 3D skin equivalent models.

(Bio)Technological aspects of microalgae pigments for cosmetics

Photosynthetic microorganisms convert carbon dioxide and solar radiation into interesting bioactive compounds not yet entirely explored. Several species of microalgae are known to be rich in colored high-valuable components that, although remarkable, are poorly explored as natural sources of pigments for cosmetics. Pigments associated to photosynthetic activity include chlorophyll, β-carotene, astaxanthin, xanthophylls, and phycobiliproteins, many of which have shown high potential as cosmetic actives due to their antioxidant, immune-enhancing, and anti-inflammatory properties. In the last decade, concern with a young and beautiful appearance has emerged, encouraging many consumers to use anti-aging cosmetics daily. As a result, the cosmetic market has been growing and evolving rapidly to meet consumer expectations. However, due to regular use and the sensitive nature of facial skin, local adverse reactions may often occur, such as irritation, sensitization, or photoreactions, and safety evaluation is mandatory prior to marketing. It is, therefore, understandable that new actives from natural sources, such as microalgae, are perceived as attractive alternatives for consumers who seek ingredients without allergenic potential. Thus, the cosmetic industry has recently started to explore the inclusion of compounds extracted from microalgae and cyanobacteria in innovative formulations. Herein, we revised nontraditional microalgae species for pigment production with cosmetic applications, indicating those that could also be considered potential ingredients for innovative cosmetics. KEY POINTS: • Extraction methods for pigments from photosynthetic microorganisms were compiled. • Innovative cosmeceuticals could be developed with natural pigments. • Safety features of such natural pigments were also described.

The anti-ageing effects of a natural peptide discovered by artificial intelligence

OBJECTIVE

As skin ages, impaired extracellular matrix (ECM) protein synthesis and increased action of degradative enzymes manifest as atrophy, wrinkling and laxity. There is mounting evidence for the functional role of exogenous peptides across many areas, including in offsetting the effects of cutaneous ageing. Here, using an artificial intelligence (AI) approach, we identified peptide RTE62G (pep_RTE62G), a naturally occurring, unmodified peptide with ECM stimulatory properties. The AI-predicted anti-ageing properties of pep_RTE62G were then validated through in vitro, ex vivo and proof of concept clinical testing.

METHODS

A deep learning approach was applied to unlock pep_RTE62G from a plant source, Pisum sativum (pea). Cell culture assays of human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) and keratinocytes (HaCaTs) were subsequently used to evaluate the in vitro effect of pep_RTE62G. Distinct activities such as cell proliferation and ECM protein production properties were determined by ELISA assays. Cell migration was assessed using a wound healing assay, while ECM protein synthesis and gene expression were analysed, respectively, by immunofluorescence microscopy and PCR. Immunohistochemistry of human skin explants was employed to further investigate the induction of ECM proteins by pep_RTE62G ex vivo. Finally, the clinical effect of pep_RTE626 was evaluated in a proof of concept 28-day pilot study.

RESULTS

In vitro testing confirmed that pep_RTE62G is an effective multi-functional anti-ageing ingredient. In HaCaTs, pep_RTE62G treatment significantly increases both cellular proliferation and migration. Similarly, in HDFs, pep_RTE62G consistently induced the neosynthesis of ECM protein elastin and collagen, effects that are upheld in human skin explants. Lastly, in our proof of concept clinical study, application of pep_RTE626 over 28 days demonstrated anti-wrinkle and collagen stimulatory potential.

CONCLUSION

pep_RTE62G represents a natural, unmodified peptide with AI-predicted and experimentally validated anti-ageing properties. Our results affirm the utility of AI in the discovery of novel, functional topical ingredients.

Identification of chia seed (Salvia hispanica L.) peptides with enzyme inhibition activity towards skin-aging enzymes

Chia (Salvia hispanica) seed peptides have drawn attention because of their antioxidant, antihypertensive and anti-inflammatory activities, making them ideal candidates for development of cosmeceutical skin products. However, there are no preceding reports that address their aging-related enzyme inhibitory activities. The aim of this study was to investigate the in vitro and in silico inhibitory activity of chia seed peptides towards the main aging-related enzymes. Enzyme-inhibition activity of < 3 kDa chia seed peptides towards collagenase, hyaluronidase, tyrosinase, and elastase was evaluated. Further fractions were obtained by size exclusion chromatography (SEC) and re-tested for enzyme inhibitory activity. Peptide sequences were identified from the most effective fraction and used for in silico analysis. The < 3 kDa peptides exhibited inhibitory activities towards elastase (65.32%, IC₅₀ = 0.43 mg/mL), tyrosinase (58.74%, IC₅₀ = 0.66 mg/mL), hyaluronidase (26.96%, IC₅₀ = 1.28 mg/mL), and collagenase (28.90%, IC₅₀ = 1.41 mg/mL). They showed mixed-type inhibition patterns towards elastase and hyaluronidase, while a non-competitive inhibition pattern was observed towards collagenase and tyrosinase. Fraction II obtained by SEC, showed higher enzyme inhibitory activity. Seven peptides were identified in this fraction (APHWYTN, DQNPRSF, GDAHWAY, GDAHWTY, GDAHWVY, GFEWITF, and KKLKRVYV), which according to in silico analysis, possess 19-29 enzyme-peptide pair interactions towards elastase and three peptide sequences shared homology sequence (GDAHW). These results demonstrate that peptides from chia seeds may contribute in the improvement of skin health by offering protection against aging-related enzymes by preventing degradation of the protein matrix on the skin; however, further in vivo studies are needed to evaluate its actual capability.

Tea-polyphenol treated skin collagen owns coalesced adaptive-hydration, tensile strength and shape-memory property

Tea-polyphenol, as non-toxic skincare, even a therapeutic agent, was extensively studied from chemical, biological and physiological perspectives. This study reveals physical intelligences of a tea-polyphenol treated skin collagen (TP-treated SC) through a material-approach. Compared to untreated one, the TP-treated SC shows resistance to over-swelling and dehydration damage. There exists an inflection point in stress value of TP-treated SC below extension of 25%. Such promptly transformation from flexibility to stiffness is self-adaptive stretch behavior. Moreover, TP-treated SC owns water responsive shape-memory property. These effects are attributed to polyphenol as plasticizer with chains crosslinked to multi-sites on collagen-fibers as netpoints. The discovery, mechanism and method, which have not been reported before, may help to develop new shape memory device, skincare products, as well as provides insights into the physiological behavior of collagen contained tissue.

Metabolite profiling and mechanisms of bioactivity of snake autolysate - A traditional Uzbek medicine

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Aqueous autolysate from the snake Eryx miliaris (SNA) has been used in traditional medicine of Uzbekistan as anti-inflammatory, hepatoprotective and immunomodulatory agent. However, little is known about the chemical composition and its mechanisms of activity.

AIM OF THE STUDY

This is our first attempt to analyse the composition of snake autolysate using gas chromatography with mass spectrometry (GC-MS) and to investigate the mechanisms of anti-inflammatory and hyaluronidase activity of fingerprinted E. miliaris autolysate to support their use in the traditional Uzbek medicine.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Aqueous autolysate was evaporated and derivatised for GC-MS analysis of metabolites. For quantification, lipids were extracted from autolysate by solvent extraction and derivatised by esterification and silylation. Biological activity was evaluated with lipid peroxidation, cyclooxygenase (COX) inhibition and antihyaluronidase activity tests.

RESULTS

GC-MS analysis of SNA enabled the identification of 27 compounds. Short chain fatty acids (SCFA, 21%), amino acid/derivatives 39% (incl. 2-piperidinone 19%), phenyl (7%), and OH-Phenyl (10%) derivatives covered 77%. Other derivatives (9%) included succinic acid and 3-indole acetic acid). Long chain fatty acids (C₁₆-C₁₈) accounted for 3%. The lipid concentration of SNA was 1.2 mg/mL (0.12%). Three concentration levels (1.0-20.0 μg/mL) did not inhibit COX-1 and COX-2 in vitro and malondialdehyde level was not decreased by SNA in lipid peroxidation model. However, SNA was a potent inhibitor of the hyaluronidase enzyme activity in a dose dependent manner with IC₅₀ = 0.086 mL/mL.

CONCLUSION

The results from GC-MS analyses of SNA lead us to the identification of a wide range of major chemical structures of the metabolites and their derivatives with several categories. Pharmacological studies support the traditional use of SNA and show one of its possible mechanisms of activity via inhibition of hyaluronidase.

Formulation and clinical evaluation of the standardized Litchi chinensis extract for skin hyperpigmentation and aging treatments

INTRODUCTION

The standardized litchi extract had been revealed on phytochemical actives, in vitro and cellular activities against aging and darkening of skin. However, a formulation containing the extract has never been developed as per clinical evaluated.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The litchi serum was developed, safety and efficacy were clinically evaluated in human volunteers. The stable and none irritated 0.05 and 0.1% litchi serums were randomized-single blind placebo control clinical applied on the inner forearm of 29 volunteers for a consecutive 112 days and monitored by Mexameter® MX18, Cutometer® MPA 580 and Visioscan® VC 98.

RESULTS

Skin lightening efficacy of the 0.1% and 0.05% litchi serum was significantly (P<0.001 and P<0.05) higher than the placebo. Skin elasticity and wrinkle reduction was significantly (P<0.05 and P<0.005) achieved by the 0.1% litchi serum. The efficacy of litchi serums was confirmed by a split-face, randomized, single-blind controlled that the 0.1% litchi serum was significantly (P<0.05) better than the 0.05% one of all examined parameters.

CONCLUSION

Safety and efficacy of litchi extract are clinically confirmed for hyperpigmentation and aging of skin treatments.

Evolution of the use of antioxidants in anti-ageing cosmetics

OBJECTIVE

Skin health and beauty are a cornerstone of general well-being in humans. Anti-ageing cosmetics are used to provide a healthy and youthful appearance. Among the different cosmetic actives, antioxidants are incorporated in anti-ageing products due to their beneficial effects in preventing and minimizing the signs of skin ageing. This work aims to understand how anti-ageing formulations changed in the past 7 years regarding pure antioxidants composition.

METHODS

Data were collected from anti-ageing formulations commercialized in main stores and pharmacies in the Portuguese market. The study started on 2011 and was updated with products launched or whose composition has been renewed on 2013, 2015 or 2018.

RESULTS

Ascorbic acid and tocopherol and their derivatives were consistently the most used antioxidants in anti-ageing formulations; followed by niacinamide and retinyl palmitate. Seven ascorbic acid derivatives are currently used in anti-ageing formulations while only three tocopherol derivatives were identified in this study. Several combinations of antioxidants were routinely found, mainly tocopherol (or tocopherol derivatives) with other antioxidants and tocopherol with tocopherol derivatives. We have not identified emerging antioxidants with great impact in anti-ageing formulations even though niacinamide and retinyl palmitate exhibited over 10% more usage in 2018.

CONCLUSION

This insight is relevant to the cosmetic industry providing a better understanding of the scientific-based formulation of modern cosmetics and supports the need for innovative antioxidants in anti-ageing cosmetics.

Wheat Extract Oil (WEO) Attenuates UVB-Induced Photoaging via Collagen Synthesis in Human Keratinocytes and Hairless Mice

The efficacy of wheat extract oil (WEO), standardized to glucosylceramides, for protecting against ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced damage of skin barrier function was assessed using the SHK-1 hairless mouse model and two human skin cell lines, namely, CCD-986sk and HeCaT. The ability of repeated oral administration of 30, 60, and 120 mg of WEO/kg/day for 12 weeks to prevent skin damage of SKH-1 hairless mice induced by UVB irradiation was evaluated. The results demonstrated that UVB-induced water evaporation (transepidermal water loss, TEWL) was significantly decreased by WEO. Similarly, UVB-induced losses in moisture and skin elasticity were improved by WEO supplementation. WEO attenuated the tissue procollagen type I, hyaluronic acid (HA), and ceramide reductions induced by UVB treatment as well. Collagen concentrations in skin tissue were increased in the WEO-treated mice, while UVB-induced epidermal thickening was reduced. In vitro studies using HeCaT human keratinocytes confirmed increased HA and collagen synthesis in response to WEO treatment. This may occur via WEO suppression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), since its induction by UVB treatment was diminished in treated CCD-986sk cells. Oral administration of WEO improves skin barrier function in UVB-irradiated mice by attenuating damage typically observed in photoaging. This research further clarifies the clinical benefits previously observed by dietary WEO consumption.

Protective Effects of Astaxanthin Supplementation against Ultraviolet-Induced Photoaging in Hairless Mice

Ultraviolet (UV) light induces skin photoaging, which is characterized by thickening, wrinkling, pigmentation, and dryness. Astaxanthin (AST), a ketocarotenoid isolated from Haematococcus pluvialis, has been extensively studied owing to its possible effects on skin health as well as UV protection. In addition, AST attenuates the increased generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and capillary regression of the skeletal muscle. In this study, we investigated whether AST could protect against UV-induced photoaging and reduce capillary regression in the skin of HR-1 hairless mice. UV light induces wrinkle formation, epidermal thickening, and capillary regression in the dermis of HR-1 hairless mice. The administration of AST reduced the UV-induced wrinkle formation and skin thickening, and increased collagen fibers in the skin. AST supplementation also inhibited the generation of ROS, decreased wrinkle formation, reduced epidermal thickening, and increased the density of capillaries in the skin. We also found an inverse correlation between wrinkle formation and the density of capillaries. An association between photoaging and capillary regression in the skin was also observed. These results suggest that AST can protect against photoaging caused by UV irradiation and the inhibitory effects of AST on photoaging may be associated with the reduction of capillary regression in the skin.

Agriculture waste valorisation as a source of antioxidant phenolic compounds within a circular and sustainable bioeconomy

Agro-food industrial waste is currently being accumulated, pushing scientists to find recovery strategies to obtain bioactive compounds within a circular bioeconomy. Target phenolic compounds have shown market potential by means of optimization extraction techniques.

Potential role of natural bioactive peptides for development of cosmeceutical skin products

In recent years, consumers' demand for cosmeceutical products with protective and therapeutic functions derived from natural sources have caused this industry to search for alternative active ingredients. Bioactive peptides have a wide spectrum of bioactivities, which make them ideal candidates for development of these cosmeceutical products. In vitro studies have demonstrated that bioactive peptides (obtained as extracts, hydrolysates, and/or individual peptides) exhibit biological properties including antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory activities, in addition to their properties of inhibiting aging-related enzymes such as elastase, collagenase, tyrosinase and hyaluronidase. Some studies report multifunctional bioactive peptides that can simultaneously affect, beneficially, multiple physiological pathways in the skin. Moreover, in vivo studies have revealed that topical application or consumption of bioactive peptides possess remarkable skin protection. These properties suggest that bioactive peptides may contribute in the improvement of skin health by providing specific physiological functions, even though the mechanisms underlying the protective effect have not been completely elucidated. This review provides an overview of in vitro, in silico and in vivo properties of bioactive peptides with potential use as functional ingredients in the cosmeceutical field. It also describes the possible mechanisms involved as well as opportunities and challenges associated with their application.

The Impact of Herbal Products in the Prevention, Regeneration and Delay of Skin Aging

Skin aging is a complex process induced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors and causes alterations to the structural and functional aspects of the skin. Skin aging affects patients physically and physiologically. Understanding the process of skin aging can provide new knowledge on how to attenuate or reduce skin disorder symptoms. Herbs have been used for ages to prevent and treat skin aging, yet there are growing interests by researchers in this field globally. Various strategies have been developed for improving the quality and effectivity of herbal skin care products, both for topical and oral applications. This review will provide an overview of the relationship between herbal skin care products and the skin aging process.

Polar lipids from wheat extract oil improve skin damages induced by aging: Evidence from a randomized, placebo-controlled clinical trial in women and an ex vivo study on human skin explant

BACKGROUND

Polar lipids from wheat (Triticum vulgare/aestivum) extract oil (WEO) are known to improve skin hydration.

AIMS

These studies aimed to assess WEO benefits on the skin appearance of middle-aged women.

METHODS

A double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled clinical study was carried out on 64 healthy women, aged from 45 to 60 years, to investigate antiaging effects and benefits for the skin. The study lasted 20 weeks including 12 weeks of oral supplementation with WEO or placebo and 8 weeks of follow-up. Wrinkles in the "crow's-feet" area were evaluated by the Lemperle score. Skin hydration was measured using a corneometer, while roughness and radiance were determined by clinical scoring. Collagen content was quantified in human skin explants exposed to ultraviolet (UV) irradiations and treated with WEO or vehicle control.

RESULTS

Compared to the placebo group, the Lemperle score was significantly reduced in the WEO group between W0 and W8 to reach a clinically significant 1 grade at W12. Facial hydration was significantly improved in the WEO group from W0 to W12, whereas leg hydration was significantly increased after 4 weeks and lasted throughout the supplementation period. Skin roughness and radiance were also significantly improved from W0 to W8 in the WEO group compared to placebo group. A higher collagen content was measured in the UV-irradiated skin explants treated with WEO compared to the untreated ones.

CONCLUSION

These results confirmed the moisturizing effect of WEO and, for the first time, revealed its potential antiaging properties.

A Review of the Role of Green Tea (Camellia sinensis) in Antiphotoaging, Stress Resistance, Neuroprotection, and Autophagy

Tea is one of the most widely consumed beverages worldwide, and is available in various forms. Green tea is richer in antioxidants compared to other forms of tea. Tea is composed of polyphenols, caffeine, minerals, and trace amounts of vitamins, amino acids, and carbohydrates. The composition of the tea varies depending on the fermentation process employed to produce it. The phytochemicals present in green tea are known to stimulate the central nervous system and maintain overall health in humans. Skin aging is a complex process mediated by intrinsic factors such as senescence, along with extrinsic damage induced by external factors such as chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) irradiation—A process known as photoaging—Which can lead to erythema, edema, sunburn, hyperplasia, premature aging, and the development of non-melanoma and melanoma skin cancers. UV can cause skin damage either directly, through absorption of energy by biomolecules, or indirectly, by increased production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and reactive nitrogen species (RNS). Green tea phytochemicals are a potent source of exogenous antioxidant candidates that could nullify excess endogenous ROS and RNS inside the body, and thereby diminish the impact of photoaging. Several in vivo and in vitro studies suggest that green tea supplementation increases the collagen and elastin fiber content, and suppresses collagen degrading enzyme MMP-3 production in the skin, conferring an anti-wrinkle effect. The precise mechanism behind the anti-photoaging effect of green tea has not been explored yet. Studies using the worm model have suggested that green tea mediated lifespan extension depends on the DAF-16 pathway. Apart from this, green tea has been reported to have stress resistance and neuroprotective properties. Its ROS scavenging activity makes it a potent stress mediator, as it can also regulate the stress induced by metal ions. It is known that tea polyphenols can induce the expression of different antioxidant enzymes and hinder the DNA oxidative damage. Growing evidence suggests that green tea can also be used as a potential agent to mediate neurodegenerative diseases, including Alzheimer’s disease. EGCG, an abundant catechin in tea, was found to suppress the neurotoxicity induced by Aβ as it activates glycogen synthase kinase-3β (GSK-3β), along with inhibiting c-Abl/FE65—the cytoplasmic nonreceptor tyrosine kinase which is involved in the development of the nervous system and in nuclear translocation. Additionally, green tea polyphenols induce autophagy, thereby revitalizing the overall health of the organism consuming it. Green tea was able to activate autophagy in HL-60 xenographs by increasing the activity of PI3 kinase and BECLIN-1. This manuscript describes the reported anti-photoaging, stress resistance, and neuroprotective and autophagy properties of one of the most widely known functional foods—green tea.

Agro-Industrial By-Products and Their Bioactive Compounds—An Ally against Oxidative Stress and Skin Aging

The increased consumer awareness towards hazards related with sun exposure has given a boost in the cosmetics industry and particularly the sun care market. Human skin is continually being threatened by the UV irradiation present in sunlight and acute UV exposure leads to skin photoaging. Cosmetic and/or dermatological applications include several bioactive compounds that contribute to the regulation of epidermal homeostasis by providing protection against solar radiation and improving the antioxidant activity of epidermis. Plant extracts are sources of active ingredients with intense therapeutic properties, and the topical application or oral intake of these compounds could ameliorate skin condition. Nowadays, there is a growing demand for the application of the bioactive agents contained in agro-industrial byproducts in sun care products, since many of them have shown promising properties as skin photoprotectants. However, well-conducted clinical studies are required to prove their safety and efficacy before they could be regularly used. Environmentally friendly extraction and sustainable techniques are therefore under examination for recovering such compounds from agro-industrial byproducts and converting them into innovative high-value natural ingredients used in cosmetic formulations.

Modulation of Oxidative Status by Normoxia and Hypoxia on Cultures of Human Dermal Fibroblasts: How Does It Affect Cell Aging?

Reactive oxygen species (ROS) production in the skin is among the highest compared to other organs, and a clear correlation exists between ROS production and skin aging. Many attempts are underway to reduce oxidative stress in the skin by topical treatment or supplementation with antioxidants/cosmeceuticals, and cultures of human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) are widely used for these studies. Here, we examined the influence of oxygen tension on cell aging in HDF and how this impacted ROS production, the enzymatic and nonenzymatic antioxidant response system, and the efficacy of this defense system in limiting DNA damage and in modulating gene expression of proteins involved in the extracellular matrix, linked to skin aging. We investigated a selection of parameters that represent and reflect the behavior of cellular responses to aging and oxygen tension. Serial passaging of HDF under normoxia (21%) and hypoxia (5%) leads to cell aging as confirmed by β-galactosidase activity, p16 expression, and proliferation rate. However, in HDF under 21% O₂, markers of aging were significantly increased compared to those under 5% O₂ at matched cell passages despite having lower levels of intracellular ROS and higher levels of CoQ₁₀, total GSH, SOD1, SOD3, and mitochondrial superoxide anion. miRNA-181a, which is known to be upregulated in HDF senescence, was also analyzed, and indeed, its expression was significantly increased in old cells at 21% O₂ compared to those at 5% O₂. Upregulation of MMP1 and downregulation of COL1A1 along with increased DNA damage were also observed under 21% O₂ vs 5% O₂. The data highlight that chronic exposure to atmospheric 21% O₂ is able to trigger hormetic adaptive responses in HDF that however fail, in the long term, to prevent cellular aging. This information could be useful in further investigating molecular mechanisms involved in adaptation of skin fibroblasts to oxidative stress and may provide useful hints in addressing antiaging strategies.

Astaxanthin in Skin Health, Repair, and Disease: A Comprehensive Review

Astaxanthin, a xanthophyll carotenoid, is a secondary metabolite naturally synthesized by a number of bacteria, microalgae, and yeasts. The commercial production of this pigment has traditionally been performed by chemical synthesis, but the microalga Haematococcus pluvialis appears to be the most promising source for its industrial biological production. Due to its collective diverse functions in skin biology, there is mounting evidence that astaxanthin possesses various health benefits and important nutraceutical applications in the field of dermatology. Although still debated, a range of potential mechanisms through which astaxanthin might exert its benefits on skin homeostasis have been proposed, including photoprotective, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory effects. This review summarizes the available data on the functional role of astaxanthin in skin physiology, outlines potential mechanisms involved in the response to astaxanthin, and highlights the potential clinical implications associated with its consumption.

Effect of Monascus-Fermented Soybean Extracts on Antioxidant and Skin Aging-Related Enzymes Inhibitory Activities

We investigated the in vitro inhibitory activity against skin aging-related enzymes and antioxidant activity of Monascus-fermented soybean extracts (MFSEs) obtained by using different solvents. The highest Trolox equivalent (TE) antioxidant capacity (3.13±0.06 mM TE/g) and oxygen radical absorbance capacity (2.79±0.09 mM TE/g) of MFSEs were evaluated for the methanol and 80% ethanol extracts, respectively. The antioxidant capacities increased with increasing concentration (0.5~50 mg/mL). In addition, the methanol and 80% ethanol extracts showed an effective inhibition against tyrosinase, hyaluronidase, and elastase compared with those of acetone and hot water extracts (P<0.05). Results indicate that the inhibitory activities against skin aging-related enzymes and antioxidant properties provide evidence for the nutricosmetic potentials of Monascus-fermented soybeans.