Combined LC/MS-platform for analysis of all major stratum corneum lipids, and the profiling of skin substitutes

Bioactive lipids in the skin barrier mediate its functionality in health and disease

Our skin protects us from external threats including ultraviolet radiation, pathogens and chemicals, and prevents excessive trans-epidermal water loss. These varied activities are reliant on a vast array of lipids, many of which are unique to skin, and that support physical, microbiological and immunological barriers. The cutaneous physical barrier is dependent on a specific lipid matrix that surrounds terminally-differentiated keratinocytes in the stratum corneum. Sebum- and keratinocyte-derived lipids cover the skin's surface and support and regulate the skin microbiota. Meanwhile, lipids signal between resident and infiltrating cutaneous immune cells, driving inflammation and its resolution in response to pathogens and other threats. Lipids of particular importance include ceramides, which are crucial for stratum corneum lipid matrix formation and therefore physical barrier functionality, fatty acids, which contribute to the acidic pH of the skin surface and regulate the microbiota, as well as the stratum corneum lipid matrix, and bioactive metabolites of these fatty acids, involved in cell signalling, inflammation, and numerous other cutaneous processes. These diverse and complex lipids maintain homeostasis in healthy skin, and are implicated in many cutaneous diseases, as well as unrelated systemic conditions with skin manifestations, and processes such as ageing. Lipids also contribute to the gut-skin axis, signalling between the two barrier sites. Therefore, skin lipids provide a valuable resource for exploration of healthy cutaneous processes, local and systemic disease development and progression, and accessible biomarker discovery for systemic disease, as well as an opportunity to fully understand the relationship between the host and the skin microbiota. Investigation of skin lipids could provide diagnostic and prognostic biomarkers, and help identify new targets for interventions. Development and improvement of existing in vitro and in silico approaches to explore the cutaneous lipidome, as well as advances in skin lipidomics technologies, will facilitate ongoing progress in skin lipid research.

Lipid Biomimetic Models as Simple Yet Complex Tools to Predict Skin Permeation and Drug-Membrane Biophysical Interactions

The barrier function of the skin is primarily determined by its outermost layer, the Stratum Corneum (SC). The SC consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix composed mainly of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids in equimolar proportions and is organised in a complex lamellar structure with different periodicities and lateral packings. This matrix provides a diffusion pathway across the SC for bioactive compounds that are administered to the skin. In this regard, and as the skin administration route has grown in popularity, there has been an increase in the use of lipid mixtures that closely resemble the SC lipid matrix, either for a deeper biophysical understanding or for pharmaceutical and cosmetic purposes. This review focuses on a systematic analysis of the main outcomes of using lipid mixtures as SC lipid matrix models for pharmaceutical and cosmetic purposes. Thus, a methodical evaluation of the main outcomes based on the SC structure is performed, as well as the main recent developments in finding suitable new in vitro tools for permeation testing based on lipid models.

Excipient-related impurities in liposome drug products

Liposomes are widely used in the pharmaceutical industry as drug delivery systems to increase the efficacy and reduce the off-target toxicity of active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs). The liposomes are more complex drug delivery systems than the traditional dosage forms, and phospholipids and cholesterol are the major structural excipients. These two excipients undergo hydrolysis and/or oxidation during liposome preparation and storage, resulting in lipids hydrolyzed products (LHPs) and cholesterol oxidation products (COPs) in the final liposomal formulations. These excipient-related impurities at elevated concentrations may affect liposome stability and exert biological functions. This review focuses on LHPs and COPs, two major categories of excipient-related impurities in the liposomal formulations, and discusses factors affecting their formation, and analytical methods to determine these excipient-related impurities.

Lipase-mediated detoxification of host-derived antimicrobial fatty acids by Staphylococcus aureus

Long-chain fatty acids with antimicrobial properties are abundant on the skin and mucosal surfaces, where they are essential to restrict the proliferation of opportunistic pathogens such as Staphylococcus aureus. These antimicrobial fatty acids (AFAs) elicit bacterial adaptation strategies, which have yet to be fully elucidated. Characterizing the pervasive mechanisms used by S. aureus to resist AFAs could open new avenues to prevent pathogen colonization. Here, we identify the S. aureus lipase Lip2 as a novel resistance factor against AFAs. Lip2 detoxifies AFAs via esterification with cholesterol. This is reminiscent of the activity of the fatty acid-modifying enzyme (FAME), whose identity has remained elusive for over three decades. In vitro, Lip2-dependent AFA-detoxification was apparent during planktonic growth and biofilm formation. Our genomic analysis revealed that prophage-mediated inactivation of Lip2 was rare in blood, nose, and skin strains, suggesting a particularly important role of Lip2 for host - microbe interactions. In a mouse model of S. aureus skin colonization, bacteria were protected from sapienic acid (a human-specific AFA) in a cholesterol- and lipase-dependent manner. These results suggest Lip2 is the long-sought FAME that exquisitely manipulates environmental lipids to promote bacterial growth in otherwise inhospitable niches.

The skin barrier: An extraordinary interface with an exceptional lipid organization

The barrier function of the skin is primarily located in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin. The SC is composed of dead cells with highly organized lipid lamellae in the intercellular space. As the lipid matrix forms the only continuous pathway, the lipids play an important role in the permeation of compounds through the SC. The main lipid classes are ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). Analysis of the SC lipid matrix is of crucial importance in understanding the skin barrier function, not only in healthy skin, but also in inflammatory skin diseases with an impaired skin barrier. In this review we provide i) a historical overview of the steps undertaken to obtain information on the lipid composition and organization in SC of healthy skin and inflammatory skin diseases, ii) information on the role CERs, CHOL and FFAs play in the lipid phase behavior of very complex lipid model systems and how this knowledge can be used to understand the deviation in lipid phase behavior in inflammatory skin diseases, iii) knowledge on the role of both, CER subclasses and chain length distribution, on lipid organization and lipid membrane permeability in complex and simple model systems with synthetic CERs, CHOL and FFAs, iv) similarity in lipid phase behavior in SC of different species and complex model systems, and vi) future directions in modulating lipid composition that is expected to improve the skin barrier in inflammatory skin diseases.

Quantitative super-resolution microscopy reveals the differences in the nanoscale distribution of nuclear phosphatidylinositol 4,5-bisphosphate in human healthy skin and skin warts

Introduction: Imaging of human clinical formalin-fixed paraffin-embedded (FFPE) tissue sections provides insights into healthy and diseased states and therefore represents a valuable resource for basic research, as well as for diagnostic and clinical purposes. However, conventional light microscopy does not allow to observe the molecular details of tissue and cell architecture due to the diffraction limit of light. Super-resolution microscopy overcomes this limitation and provides access to the nanoscale details of tissue and cell organization. Methods: Here, we used quantitative multicolor stimulated emission depletion (STED) nanoscopy to study the nanoscale distribution of the nuclear phosphatidylinositol 4,5-bisphosphate (nPI(4,5)P2) with respect to the nuclear speckles (NS) marker SON. Results: Increased nPI(4,5)P2 signals were previously linked to human papillomavirus (HPV)-mediated carcinogenesis, while NS-associated PI(4,5)P2 represents the largest pool of nPI(4,5)P2 visualized by staining and microscopy. The implementation of multicolor STED nanoscopy in human clinical FFPE skin and wart sections allowed us to provide here the quantitative evidence for higher levels of NS-associated PI(4,5)P2 in HPV-induced warts compared to control skin. Discussion: These data expand the previous reports of HPV-induced increase of nPI(4,5)P2 levels and reveal for the first time the functional, tissue-specific localization of nPI(4,5)P2 within NS in clinically relevant samples. Moreover, our approach is widely applicable to other human clinical FFPE tissues as an informative addition to the classical histochemistry.

Using molecular simulation to understand the skin barrier

Skin's effectiveness as a barrier to permeation of water and other chemicals rests almost entirely in the outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (SC), which consists of layers of corneocytes surrounded by highly organized lipid lamellae. As the only continuous path through the SC, transdermal permeation necessarily involves diffusion through these lipid layers. The role of the SC as a protective barrier is supported by its exceptional lipid composition consisting of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL), and free fatty acids (FFAs) and the complete absence of phospholipids, which are present in most biological membranes. Molecular simulation, which provides molecular level detail of lipid configurations that can be connected with barrier function, has become a popular tool for studying SC lipid systems. We review this ever-increasing body of literature with the goals of (1) enabling the experimental skin community to understand, interpret and use the information generated from the simulations, (2) providing simulation experts with a solid background in the chemistry of SC lipids including the composition, structure and organization, and barrier function, and (3) presenting a state of the art picture of the field of SC lipid simulations, highlighting the difficulties and best practices for studying these systems, to encourage the generation of robust reproducible studies in the future. This review describes molecular simulation methodology and then critically examines results derived from simulations using atomistic and then coarse-grained models.

Multiscale Simulation of Ternary Stratum Corneum Lipid Mixtures: Effects of Cholesterol Composition

Molecular dynamics simulations of mixtures of the ceramide nonhydroxy-sphingosine (NS), cholesterol, and a free fatty acid are performed to gain molecular-level understanding of the structure of the lipids found in the stratum corneum layer of skin. A new coarse-grained force field for cholesterol was developed using the multistate iterative Boltzmann inversion (MS-IBI) method. The coarse-grained cholesterol force field is compatible with previously developed coarse-grained force fields for ceramide NS, free fatty acids, and water and validated against atomistic simulations of these lipids using the CHARMM force field. Self-assembly simulations of multilayer structures using these coarse-grained force fields are performed, revealing that a large fraction of the ceramides adopt extended conformations, which cannot occur in the single bilayer in water structures typically studied using molecular simulation. Cholesterol fluidizes the membrane by promoting packing defects, and an increase in cholesterol content is found to reduce the bilayer thickness due to an increase in interdigitation of the C₂₄ lipid tails, consistent with experimental observations. Using a reverse-mapping procedure, a self-assembled coarse-grained multilayer system is used to construct an equivalent structure with atomistic resolution. Simulations of this atomistic structure are found to closely agree with experimentally derived neutron scattering length density profiles. Significant interlayer hydrogen bonding is observed in the inner layers of the atomistic multilayer structure that are not found in the outer layers in contact with water or in equivalent bilayer structures. This work highlights the importance of simulating multilayer structures, as compared to the more commonly studied bilayer systems, to enable more appropriate comparisons with multilayer experimental membranes. These results also provide validation of the efficacy of the MS-IBI derived coarse-grained force fields and the framework for multiscale simulation.

The importance of ceramide headgroup for lipid localisation in skin lipid models

The stratum corneum's lipid matrix is a critical for the skin's barrier function and is primarily composed of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). The lipids form a long periodicity phase (LPP), a unique trilayer unit cell structure. An enzyme driven pathway is implemented to synthesize these key lipids. If these enzymes are down- or upregulated as in inflammatory diseases, the final lipid composition is affected often altering the barrier function. In this study, we mimicked down regulation of enzymes involved in the synthesis of the sphingosine and CER amide bond. In a LPP lipid model, we substituted CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-sphingosine (CER NS) with either i) FFA C24 and free sphingosine, to simulate the loss of the CER amide bond, or ii) with FFA C24 and C18 to simulate the loss of the sphingosine headgroup. Our study shows the lipids in the LPP would not phase separate until at least 25% of the CER NS is substituted keeping the lateral packing and conformational ordering unaltered. Neutron diffraction studies showed that free sphingosine chains localized at the outer layers of the unit cell, while the remaining CER NS head group was concentrated in the inner headgroup layers. However, when FFA C18 was inserted, CER NS was dispersed throughout the LPP, resulting in an even distribution between the inner and outer water layers. The presented results highlight the importance of the CER NS headgroup structure and its interaction in combination with the carbon chain invariability for optimal lipid arrangement.

Vegetable Butters and Oils as Therapeutically and Cosmetically Active Ingredients for Dermal Use: A Review of Clinical Studies

While the chemical composition of vegetable butters and oils has been studied in detail, there is limited knowledge about their mechanisms of action after application on the skin. To understand their dermal effects better, 27 clinical studies evaluating 17 vegetable oils (almond, argan, avocado, borage, coconut, evening primrose, kukui, marula, mustard, neem, olive, rapeseed, sacha inchi, safflower, shea butter, soybean and sunflower oils) were reviewed in this research. The reviewed studies focused on non-affected skin, infant skin, psoriasis, xerosis, UVB-induced erythema, atopic dermatitis, molluscum contagiosum, tungiasis, scars, striae and striae gravidarum. We conclude that in inflammation-affected skin, vegetable oils with a high content of oleic acid, together with the lack of or a low linoleic acid content, may cause additional structural damage of the stratum corneum, while oils high in linoleic acid and saturated fatty acids may express positive effects. Non-affected skin, in contrast, may not react negatively to oils high in oleic acid. However, the frequency and duration of an oil's use must be considered an important factor that may accelerate or enhance the negative effects on the skin's structural integrity.

Antimicrobial Tear Lipids in the Ocular Surface Defense

The concept of antimicrobial lipids as effectors of innate host defense is an emerging field. There is limited knowledge on the antimicrobial role of lipids in the ocular environment. Tears act as first line of defense to protect the ocular surface from infections. Antimicrobial effects of tear lipids have been demonstrated using meibomian lipids that are the source of majority of lipids in tears. This article describes the knowledge available on the antimicrobial role of tear lipids at the ocular surface and the antimicrobial potential of various lipid classes present in tears that can contribute to antimicrobial protection of the eye. Like other mucosal secretions, tears contain many proteins and lipids with known antimicrobial effects. The antimicrobial defense of tears is far stronger than can be demonstrated by the effects of individual compounds many of which are present in low concentrations but synergistic and additive interactions between them provide substantial antimicrobial protection to the ocular surface. It is inferred that antimicrobial lipids play important role in innate defense of tears, and cooperative interactions between various antimicrobial lipids and proteins in tears provide a potent host defense mechanism that is effective against a broad spectrum of pathogens and renders self-sterilizing properties to tears for keeping the microbial load low at the ocular surface.

Stratum corneum ceramide profiles in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo: characterization of the α-hydroxy double esterified ceramides

The presence of a new ceramide subclass, the 1-O-acyl omega-linoleoyloxy ceramides [1-O-E (EO) Cer], has been previously highlighted in reconstructed human epidermis (RHE). These ceramides are double esterified on two positions. The first is the 1-O position of the sphingoid base moiety with a long to very long chain of acyl residues (1-O-E), and the second is the position of the ω-hydroxyl group of the fatty acid moiety with linoleic acid (EO). Considering its chemical structure and hydrophobicity, this subclass can contribute to the skin barrier. Thus, it is important to determine whether this subclass is also present in native human stratum corneum (SC). This work compares ceramide structures of this novel subclass between RHE (in vitro) and two sources of human SC (in vivo and ex vivo) using normal-phase high-performance liquid chromatography coupled to high-resolution mass spectrometry (NP-HPLC/HR-MSⁿ). The results confirm the presence of this double esterified ceramide subclass [1-O-E (EO) Cer] in human SC. The molecular profile obtained from the RHE was very close to that found in the human SC (in vivo and ex vivo). In addition, thanks to the targeted MS²/MS³ analysis, a new ceramide subclass was discovered and characterized in the three studied samples. We propose to name it [A-1-O-E (EO) Cer] because in these ceramides species, the fatty acid-esterified with the sphingoid base on the 1-O position-is hydroxylated on the α position. These results highlight the potential of both the analytical method and the characterization approach employed in this study.

Elucidating the molecular landscape of the stratum corneum

Skin is recognized as an intricate assembly of molecular components, which facilitate cell signaling, metabolism, and protein synthesis mechanisms in order to offer protection, regulation, and sensation to the body. Our study takes significant steps to characterize in more detail the complex chemistry of the skin, in particular by generating a better understanding of the uppermost layer, the stratum corneum. Using a state-of-the-art 3D OrbiSIMS technique, we were able to observe the depth distribution, in situ, for a wide range of molecular species. This unprecedented molecular characterization of skin provides information that has the potential to benefit research into fundamental processes, such as those associated with skin aging and disease, and the development and delivery of effective topical formulations.

Characterization of the molecular structure of skin, especially the barrier layer, the stratum corneum, is a key research priority for generating understanding to improve diagnostics, aid pharmaceutical delivery, and prevent environmental damage. Our study uses the recently developed 3D OrbiSIMS technique to conduct in situ analysis of ex vivo human skin tissue and reveals the molecular chemistry of skin in unprecedented detail, as a result of the step change in high mass resolving power compared with previous studies. This characterization exposes the nonhomogeneity of the stratum corneum, both laterally and as a function of depth. Chemical variations relating to fundamental biological processes, such as the epidermal cholesterol sulfate cycle, are visualized using in situ analysis. We are able to resolve the debate around the chemical gradients present within the epidermis, for example, whether palmitic acid is of sebaceous origin or a true component of the stratum corneum. Through in situ depth analysis of cryogenically preserved samples, we are able to propose that it is actually a component of both surface sebum and the intrinsic lipid matrix. This approach also suggests similarity between the epidermis compounds found in human and porcine skin as a function of depth. Since porcine skin is a widely used model for permeation testing this result has clinical relevance. In addition to using this technique for endogenous species, we have used it to demonstrate the permeation of a commercially important antiaging peptide into the human stratum corneum. Due to its chemical similarity to native skin components and exceptionally low effective concentration, this information was previously unattainable.

Cholesterol Sulfate Fluidizes the Sterol Fraction of the Stratum Corneum Lipid Phase and Increases its Permeability

Desulfation of cholesterol sulfate (CholS) to cholesterol (Chol) is an important event in epidermal homeostasis and necessary for stratum corneum (SC) barrier function. The CholS/Chol ratio decreases during SC maturation but remains high in pathological conditions, such as X-linked ichthyosis, characterized by dry and scaly skin. The aim of this study was to characterize the influence of the CholS/Chol molar ratio on the structure, dynamics, and permeability of SC lipid model mixtures. We synthesized deuterated CholS and investigated lipid models with specifically deuterated components using ²H solid-state NMR spectroscopy at temperatures from 25°C to 80°C. Although the rigid acyl chains in ceramides and fatty acids remained essentially rigid upon variation of the CholS/Chol ratio, both sterols were increasingly fluidized in lipid models containing higher CholS concentrations. We also show the X-ray repeat distance of the lipid lamellar phase (105 Å) and the orthorhombic chain packing of the ceramide’s acyl chains and long free fatty acids did not change upon the variation of the CholS content. However, the Chol phase separation visible in models with high Chol concentration disappeared at the 50:50 CholS/Chol ratio. This increased fluidity resulted in higher permeabilities to model markers of these SC models. These results reveal that a high CholS/Chol ratio fluidizes the sterol fraction and increases the permeability of the SC lipid phase while maintaining the lamellar lipid arrangement with an asymmetric sterol distribution.

Current views on non-invasive in vivo determination of physiological parameters of the stratum corneum using confocal Raman microspectroscopy

Confocal Raman microspectroscopy is widely used in dermatology and cosmetology for analysis of the concentration of skin components (lipids, natural moisturizing factor molecules, water) and the penetration depth of cosmetic/medical formulations in the human stratum corneum (SC) in vivo. In recent years, it was shown that confocal Raman microspectroscopy can also be used for non-invasive in vivo depth-dependent determination of the physiological parameters of the SC, such as lamellar and lateral organization of intercellular lipids, folding properties of keratin, water mobility and hydrogen bonding states. The results showed that the strongest skin barrier function, which is primarily manifested by the orthorhombic organization of intercellular lipids, is provided at ≈20-40% SC depth, which is related to the maximal bonding state of water with surrounding components in the SC. The secondary and tertiary structures of keratin determine water binding in the SC, which is depth-dependent. This paper shows the technical possibility and advantage of confocal Raman microspectroscopy in non-invasive investigation of the skin and summarizes recent results on in vivo investigation of the human SC.

Research Techniques Made Simple: Lipidomic Analysis in Skin Research

Although lipids are crucial molecules for cell structure, metabolism, and signaling in most organs, they have additional specific functions in the skin. Lipids are required for the maintenance and regulation of the epidermal barrier, physical properties of the skin, and defense against microbes. Analysis of the lipidome-the totality of lipids-is of similar complexity to those of proteomics or other omics, with lipid structures ranging from simple, linear, to highly complex structures. In addition, the ordering and chemical modifications of lipids have consequences on their biological function, especially in the skin. Recent advances in analytic capability (usually with mass spectrometry), bioinformatic processing, and integration with other dermatological big data have allowed researchers to increasingly understand the roles of specific lipid species in skin biology. In this paper, we review the techniques used to analyze skin lipidomics and epilipidomics.

Molecular characterization of xerosis cutis: A systematic review

Background

Xerosis cutis or dry skin is a highly prevalent dermatological disorder especially in the elderly and in patients with underlying health conditions. In the past decades, numerous molecular markers have been investigated for their association with the occurrence or severity of skin dryness. The aim of this review was to summarize the molecular markers used in xerosis cutis research and to describe possible associations with different dry skin etiologies.

Methods

We conducted a systematic review of molecular markers of xerosis cutis caused by internal or systemic changes. References published between 1990 and September 2020 were searched using ‘MEDLINE’, ‘EMBASE’ and ‘Biological abstracts’ databases. Study results were summarized and analyzed descriptively. The review protocol was registered in PROSPERO database (CRD42020214173).

Results

A total of 21 study reports describing 72 molecules were identified including lipids, natural moisturizing factors (NMFs), proteins including cytokines and metabolites or metabolic products. Most frequently reported markers were ceramides, total free fatty acids, triglycerides and selected components of NMFs. Thirty-one markers were reported only once. Although, associations of these molecular markers with skin dryness were described, reports of unclear and/or no association were also frequent for nearly every marker.

Conclusion

An unexpectedly high number of various molecules to quantify xerosis cutis was found. There is substantial heterogeneity regarding molecular marker selection, tissue sampling and laboratory analyses. Empirical evidence is also heterogeneous regarding possible associations with dry skin. Total free fatty acids, total ceramide, ceramide (NP), ceramide (NS), triglyceride, total free amino acids and serine seem to be relevant, but the association with dry skin is inconsistent. Although the quantification of molecular markers plays an important role in characterizing biological processes, pathogenic processes or pharmacologic responses, it is currently unclear which molecules work best in xerosis cutis.

The Pathogenic and Therapeutic Implications of Ceramide Abnormalities in Atopic Dermatitis

Ceramides play an essential role in forming a permeability barrier in the skin. Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a common chronic skin disease associated with skin barrier dysfunction and immunological abnormalities. In patients with AD, the amount and composition of ceramides in the stratum corneum are altered. This suggests that ceramide abnormalities are involved in the pathogenesis of AD. The mechanism underlying lipid abnormalities in AD has not yet been fully elucidated, but the involvement of Th2 and Th1 cytokines is implicated. Ceramide-dominant emollients have beneficial effects on skin barrier function; thus, they have been approved as an adjunctive barrier repair agent for AD. This review summarizes the current understanding of the mechanisms of ceramide abnormalities in AD. Furthermore, the potential therapeutic approaches for correcting ceramide abnormalities in AD are discussed.

Two- and Three-Dimensional Physical-Chemical Characterization of CER[AP]: A Study of Stereochemistry and Chain Symmetry

The stratum corneum represents the first skin barrier against chemical and physical damage. These unique properties are based on its peculiar lipid composition with ceramides (CERs) as the main protagonists. In this study, the structural and chemical properties of the α-OH phytosphingosine [AP] CER class have been investigated. α-OH CERs are present in the stratum corneum in their d-forms; however, in most model systems the diastereomer mixture with the synthetically produced l-form is used. The d-form is well-known to form a hydrogen bonding network that helps to reduce the permeability of the lipid matrix, while the l-form does not show any hydrogen bonding network formation. In this paper, 2D (monolayers) and 3D (aqueous dispersions) models have been used to thoroughly study the physical-chemical behaviors of CER[AP] diastereomers taking into account how the symmetry of the chain pattern influences the behavior of the molecules. The chains of both diastereomers arrange in an oblique unit cell, but only the d-CER[AP] forms a supramolecular lattice (subgel phase) in both model systems. Interestingly, the chain pattern does not play any role in structure formation since the hydrogen bonding network dictates the packing properties. The 1:1 mixture of the diastereomers phase separates into two domains: one is composed of practically pure d-form and the other one is composed of a mixture of the l-form with a certain amount of d-form molecules.

Peroxisomal Fatty Acid Oxidation and Glycolysis Are Triggered in Mouse Models of Lesional Atopic Dermatitis

Alterations of the lipid profile of the stratum corneum have an important role in the pathogenesis of atopic dermatitis (AD) because they contribute to epidermal barrier impairment. However, they have not previously been envisioned as a cellular response to altered metabolic requirements in AD epidermis. In this study, we report that the lipid composition in the epidermis of flaky tail, that is, ft/ft mice mimics that of human lesional AD (ADL) epidermis, both showing a shift toward shorter lipid species. The amounts of C24 and C26 free fatty acids and C24 and C26 ceramides-oxidized exclusively in peroxisomes-were reduced in the epidermis of ft/ft mice despite increased lipid synthesis, similar to that seen in human ADL edpidermis. Increased ACOX1 protein and activity in granular keratinocytes of ft/ft epidermis, altered lipid profile in human epidermal equivalents overexpressing ACOX1, and increased ACOX1 immunostaining in skin biopsies from patients with ADL suggest that peroxisomal β-oxidation significantly contributes to lipid signature in ADL epidermis. Moreover, we show that increased anaerobic glycolysis in ft/ft mouse epidermis is essential for keratinocyte proliferation and adenosine triphosphate synthesis but does not contribute to local inflammation. Thus, this work evidenced a metabolic shift toward enhanced peroxisomal β-oxidation and anaerobic glycolysis in ADL epidermis.

Stratum Corneum Function: A Structural Study with Dynamic Synchrotron X-ray Diffraction Experiments

Studies on the effectiveness of substances such as drugs and cosmetics that act on the skin require structural evidence at the molecular level in the stratum corneum to clarify their interaction with intercellular lipid and soft keratin. For this purpose, when applying the substances to the stratum corneum X-ray diffraction experiment is one of the powerful tools. To detect minute structural changes in a stratum corneum sample, using a "solution cell", dynamic synchrotron X-ray diffraction measurements were performed when applying aqueous solution of the substances to the stratum corneum: (1) It was found that a surfactant, sodium dodecyl sulfate, significantly disrupted the long-period lamellar structure. (2) To study the effects of water, structural modifications of the short-period lamellar structure and the soft keratin in corneocytes were measured as a function of time. At the initial water content of 15 wt%, the spacings of the short-period lamellar structure and the soft keratin increased toward those at the water content of 25 wt%, that is a key water content in the stratum corneum. (3) Nanoparticles composed of assembly of amphiphilic molecules are one of the leading pharmaceutical formulations. When the nanoparticles were applied, a new assembly of amphiphilic molecules originated from the nanoparticle appeared. This phenomenon suggests that the formation of the new assembly at the surface of skin is concerned with the release of the drug from the nanoparticles. (4) When ethanol was applied to the stratum corneum, only the liquid state in the intercellular lipid matrix was dissolved. After the removal of ethanol from this stratum corneum, the ordered hydrocarbon-chain packing structures appeared. From this fact we would propose that the liquid state region is the main pathway for hydrophobic drugs with a small molecular weight in connection with the so-called 500 Da rule. Here, not only the technique but also the background to these studies and the characteristic results obtained from these studies are explained.

Update on the Pathogenesis and Therapy of Atopic Dermatitis

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a common inflammatory skin disorder characterized by recurrent eczematous lesions and intense itch. Although it most often starts in infancy and affects children, it is also highly prevalent in adults. In this article, the main aspects of AD have been updated, with a focus on the pathogenetic and therapeutic aspects. The pathogenesis of AD is complex, and it is evident that a strong genetic predisposition, epidermal dysfunction, skin microbiome abnormalities, immune dysregulation, and the neuroimmune system are critical in AD development. Mutations in the genes associated with disrupted epidermal barrier, exaggerated pathological inflammation and inadequate antimicrobial peptides can promote enhanced Th2 inflammation and mediate pruritus. Current understanding of etiology highlights gut microbial diversity, NK cell deficiency, and different immunological phenotype with age and race. For topical anti-inflammatory treatment for mild-to-severe AD, phosphodiesterase 4 inhibitors (PDE-4), JAK inhibitors, and microbiome transplantation with Roseomonas mucosa provided more management selections. The treatment of moderate-to-severe AD has been limited to merely symptomatic and relatively nonspecific immunosuppressive approaches. In-depth understanding of the pathogenesis of AD has led to the development of innovative and targeted therapies, such as biologic agents targeting interleukin (IL)-4, IL-13 and JAK/STAT inhibitors. Other potential therapeutic agents for AD include agents targeting the T helper (Th) 22 and Th17/IL23 pathway. Antipruritic therapy and complementary probiotics therapy have also been reviewed.

Effects of (R)- and (S)-α-Hydroxylation of Acyl Chains in Sphingosine, Dihydrosphingosine, and Phytosphingosine Ceramides on Phase Behavior and Permeability of Skin Lipid Models

Ceramides (Cers) with α-hydroxylated acyl chains comprise about a third of all extractable skin Cers and are required for permeability barrier homeostasis. We have probed here the effects of Cer hydroxylation on their behavior in lipid models comprising the major SC lipids, Cer/free fatty acids (C ₁₆-C ₂₄)/cholesterol, and a minor component, cholesteryl sulfate. Namely, Cers with (R)-α-hydroxy lignoceroyl chains attached to sphingosine (Cer AS), dihydrosphingosine (Cer AdS), and phytosphingosine (Cer AP) were compared to their unnatural (S)-diastereomers and to Cers with non-hydroxylated lignoceroyl chains attached to sphingosine (Cer NS), dihydrosphingosine (Cer NdS), and phytosphingosine (Cer NP). By comparing several biophysical parameters (lamellar organization by X-ray diffraction, chain order, lateral packing, phase transitions, and lipid mixing by infrared spectroscopy using deuterated lipids) and the permeabilities of these models (water loss and two permeability markers), we conclude that there is no general or common consequence of Cer α-hydroxylation. Instead, we found a rich mix of effects, highly dependent on the sphingoid base chain, configuration at the α-carbon, and permeability marker used. We found that the model membranes with unnatural Cer (S)-AS have fewer orthorhombically packed lipid chains than those based on the (R)-diastereomer. In addition, physiological (R)-configuration decreases the permeability of membranes, with Cer (R)-AdS to theophylline, and increases the lipid chain order in model systems with natural Cer (R)-AP. Thus, each Cer subclass makes a distinct contribution to the structural organization and function of the skin lipid barrier.

The New Challenge of Green Cosmetics: Natural Food Ingredients for Cosmetic Formulations

Nowadays, much attention is paid to issues such as ecology and sustainability. Many consumers choose “green cosmetics”, which are environmentally friendly creams, makeup, and beauty products, hoping that they are not harmful to health and reduce pollution. Moreover, the repeated mini-lock downs during the COVID-19 pandemic have fueled the awareness that body beauty is linked to well-being, both external and internal. As a result, consumer preferences for makeup have declined, while those for skincare products have increased. Nutricosmetics, which combines the benefits derived from food supplementation with the advantages of cosmetic treatments to improve the beauty of our body, respond to the new market demands. Food chemistry and cosmetic chemistry come together to promote both inside and outside well-being. A nutricosmetic optimizes the intake of nutritional microelements to meet the needs of the skin and skin appendages, improving their conditions and delaying aging, thus helping to protect the skin from the aging action of environmental factors. Numerous studies in the literature show a significant correlation between the adequate intake of these supplements, improved skin quality (both aesthetic and histological), and the acceleration of wound-healing. This review revised the main foods and bioactive molecules used in nutricosmetic formulations, their cosmetic effects, and the analytical techniques that allow the dosage of the active ingredients in the food.

Rhynchophorus palmarum (Linnaeus, 1758) (Coleoptera: Curculionidae): Guarani-Kaiowá indigenous knowledge and pharmacological activities

Zootherapy is a traditional secular practice among the Guarani-Kaiowá indigenous ethnic group living in Mato Grosso do Sul, Brazil. My people use the oil extracted from larvae of the snout beetle Rhynchophorus palmarum (Linnaeus, 1758) to treat and heal skin wounds and respiratory diseases. Based on this ethnopharmacological knowledge, the chemical composition and antioxidant, antimicrobial, and healing properties of R. palmarum larvae oil (RPLO) were investigated, as well as possible toxic effects, through in vitro and in vivo assays. The chemical composition of the RPLO was determined using gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry. The antioxidant activity of RPLO was investigated through the direct 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging assay, and the antimicrobial activity was evaluated against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria that are pathogenic to humans. The healing properties of RPLO were investigated by performing a cell migration assay using human lung fibroblasts (MRC-5), and the toxicity was analyzed, in vivo, using a Caenorhabditis elegans model and MRC-5 cells, in vitro. RPLO contains 52.2% saturated fatty acids and 47.4% unsaturated fatty acids, with palmitic acid (42.7%) and oleic acid (40%) representing its major components, respectively. RPLO possesses direct antioxidant activity, with a half-maximal inhibitory concentration (IC50) of 46.15 mg.ml-1. The antimicrobial activity of RPLO was not observed at a concentration of 1% (v/v). RPLO did not alter the viability of MRC-5 cells and did not exert toxic effects on C. elegans. Furthermore, MRC-5 cells incubated with 0.5% RPLO showed a higher rate of cell migration than that of the control group, supporting its healing properties. Taken together, RPLO possesses direct antioxidant activity and the potential to aid in the healing process and is not toxic toward in vitro and in vivo models, corroborating the safe use of the oil in traditional Guarani-Kaiowá medicine.

The Importance of Free Fatty Chain Length on the Lipid Organization in the Long Periodicity Phase

The skin's barrier ability is an essential function for terrestrial survival, which is controlled by intercellular lipids within the stratum corneum (SC) layer. In this barrier, free fatty acids (FFAs) are an important lipid class. As seen in inflammatory skin diseases, when the lipid chain length is reduced, a reduction in the barrier's performance is observed. In this study, we have investigated the contributing effects of various FFA chain lengths on the lamellar phase, lateral packing. The repeat distance of the lamellar phase increased with FFA chain length (C20-C28), while shorter FFAs (C16 to C18) had the opposite behaviour. While the lateral packing was affected, the orthorhombic to hexagonal to fluid phase transitions were not affected by the FFA chain length. Porcine SC lipid composition mimicking model was then used to investigate the proportional effect of shorter FFA C16, up to 50% content of the total FFA mixture. At this level, no difference in the overall lamellar phases and lateral packing was observed, while a significant increase in the water permeability was detected. Our results demonstrate a FFA C16 threshold that must be exceeded before the structure and barrier function of the long periodicity phase (LPP) is affected. These results are important to understand the lipid behaviour in this unique LPP structure as well as for the understanding, treatment, and development of inflammatory skin conditions.

Skin barrier dysfunction and filaggrin

Skin barrier dysfunction caused by endogenous or exogenous factors can lead to various disorders such as xerosis cutis, ichthyoses, and atopic dermatitis. Filaggrin is a pivotal structural protein of the stratum corneum (SC) and provides natural moisturizing factors that play a role in skin barrier functions. Filaggrin aggregates keratin filaments, resulting in the formation of a keratin network, which binds cornified envelopes and collapse keratinocytes to flattened corneocytes. This complex network contributes to the physical strength of the skin. Filaggrin is degraded by caspase-14, calpain 1, and bleomycin hydrolases into amino acids and amino acid metabolites such as trans-urocanic acid and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, which are pivotal natural moisturizing factors in the SC. Accordingly, filaggrin is important for the pathophysiology of skin barrier disorders, and its deficiency or dysfunction leads to a variety of skin disorders. Here, the roles and biology of filaggrin, related skin diseases, and a therapeutic strategy targeting filaggrin are reviewed. In addition, several drug candidates of different mode of actions targeting filaggrin, along with their clinical efficacy, are discussed.

Very Long Chain Lipids Favor the Formation of a Homogeneous Phase in Stratum Corneum Model Membranes

The stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of mammal epidermis, acts as a barrier dictating the rate of absorption of exogenous molecules through the skin, as well as to prevent excessive water loss from the body. The SC consists of protein-rich corneocytes embedded into a complex lipid mixture. The lipid fraction is mainly constituted of an equimolar mixture of ceramides (Cer), free fatty acids (FFA), and cholesterol (Chol), forming a solid phase in the intracellular space; this lipid phase is supposed to play a fundamental role in the SC barrier function. An unusual characteristic of this biological membrane is that its lipids generally bear very long acyl chains, with the 24-carbon long ones being the most abundant. In this work, we used Raman microspectroscopy and infrared spectroscopy to study the influence of the acyl chain length on the lipid mixing properties in SC model membranes. Our results revealed that the combination of ceramides and FFA bearing a very long chain is required for the formation of homogeneous lipid mixtures, while lipids with shorter chains (16-carbon and 20-carbon atom long) lead to domains with micrometer dimensions. It is proposed that the biological machinery necessary for acyl chain elongation occurring at the mammalian skin level is required to inhibit lipid phase separation, a critical feature in the proper barrier functioning.

Stratum corneum lipidomics analysis reveals altered ceramide profile in atopic dermatitis patients across body sites with correlated changes in skin microbiome

BACKGROUND

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is driven by the interplay between a dysfunctional epidermal barrier and a skewed cutaneous immune dysregulation. As part of the complex skin barrier dysfunction, abnormalities in lipid organization and microbiome composition have been described. We set out to systematically investigate the composition of the stratum corneum lipidome, skin microbiome and skin physiology parameters at three different body sites in patients with AD and healthy volunteers.

METHODS

We analysed tape strips from different body areas obtained from 10 adults with AD and 10 healthy volunteers matched for FLG mutation status for 361 skin lipid species using the Metabolon mass spectrometry platform. 16S rRNA data were available from all probands.

RESULTS

Our study showed that the lipid composition differs significantly between body sites and between AD patients and healthy individuals. Ceramide species NS was significantly higher in AD patients compared to healthy volunteers and was also higher in AD patients with a FLG mutation compared to AD patients without a FLG mutation. The correlation analysis of skin lipid alterations with the microbiome showed that Staphylococcus colonization in AD is positively correlated with ceramide subspecies AS, ADS, NS and NDS.

CONCLUSION

This is the first study to reveal site-specific lipid alterations and correlations with the skin microbiome in AD.

Impact of airborne particulate matter on skin: a systematic review from epidemiology to in vitro studies

BACKGROUND

Air pollution is killing close to 5 million people a year, and harming billions more. Air pollution levels remain extremely high in many parts of the world, and air pollution-associated premature deaths have been reported for urbanized areas, particularly linked to the presence of airborne nano-sized and ultrafine particles.

MAIN TEXT

To date, most of the research studies did focus on the adverse effects of air pollution on the human cardiovascular and respiratory systems. Although the skin is in direct contact with air pollutants, their damaging effects on the skin are still under investigation. Epidemiological data suggested a correlation between exposure to air pollutants and aggravation of symptoms of chronic immunological skin diseases. In this study, a systematic literature review was conducted to understand the current knowledge on the effects of airborne particulate matter on human skin. It aims at providing a deeper understanding of the interactions between air pollutants and skin to further assess their potential risks for human health.

CONCLUSION

Particulate matter was shown to induce a skin barrier dysfunction and provoke the formation of reactive oxygen species through direct and indirect mechanisms, leading to oxidative stress and induced activation of the inflammatory cascade in human skin. Moreover, a positive correlation was reported between extrinsic aging and atopic eczema relative risk with increasing particulate matter exposure.

State of the Art in Stratum Corneum Research. Part II: Hypothetical Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix Models

This review is the second part of a series which presents the state of the art in stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix (LM) research in depth. In this part, the various hypothetical models which were developed to describe the structure and function of the SC LM as the skin's barrier will be discussed. New as well as a cumulative assortment of older results which change the view on the different models are considered to conclude how well the different models are holding up today. As a final conclusion, a model, factoring in as much of the known data as possible, is concluded, unifying the varying different models into one which can be developed further, as new results are found in the future. So far, the model is described with a single crystalline or gel-like phase with a certain amount of nanocrystallites of concentrated ceramides (CERs) and free fatty acids and more fluid nanodomains caused by a fluidizing effect of the cholesterol. These domains are dynamically resolved and reformed and do not impair the barrier function. The chain conformation is not completely clear yet; however, an equilibrium of fully extended and hairpin-folded CERs with ratios depending on the properties of each individual CER species is proposed as most likely. An overlapping middle layer as described for the tri-layer model in part I of this series would be present for both conformations. The macroscopic broad-narrow-broad layering, observed in electron micrographs, is explained by an external templating by the lipid envelope, and an internal templating by short and long lipid chains each preferentially show a homophilic association, forming thicker and thinner bilayers, respectively. The degree of influence of the very long ω-hydroxy-CERs is discussed as well.

Association of dry skin with intercellular lipid composition of stratum corneum after erlotinib administration

PURPOSE

Erlotinib, an inhibitor of the epidermal growth factor receptor tyrosine kinase, causes skin disorders such as dry skin, which impairs the skin barrier function. Stratum corneum (SC) lipids play an important role in skin barrier function; therefore, this study aimed to investigate the relationship between erlotinib-related dry skin and changes in the intercellular lipid composition and structure of the SC.

METHODS

Overall, 21 patients with non-small lung cancer were enrolled in this study. All patients received 150 mg/day erlotinib orally. A SC sample of each patient was collected from the inner forearm using the tape stripping method on days 0, 7, 14, 28, and 56 after erlotinib administration. The intercellular lipid components of ceramide (CER), free fatty acid (FFA), and cholesterol sulfate (CS) in samples extracted from the tape were analyzed using liquid chromatography/time-of-flight/mass spectrometry. SC samples from six healthy subjects were collected as controls on days 0, 28 and 56 and analyzed similarly.

RESULTS

Although total CER and FFA levels were not changed after erlotinib administration, the levels of CER subclasses [AP] and [AH] and hydroxy FFA, which are structural components of CER subclass [A], decreased. In contrast, the CS levels increased after erlotinib administration. Moreover, higher CS levels in the SC correlated with the clinical condition of dry skin. No changes were observed in the SC lipid composition in healthy subjects.

CONCLUSION

Erlotinib-related dry skin was associated with a higher CS level in the SC.

Altered Levels of Sphingosine, Sphinganine and Their Ceramides in Atopic Dermatitis Are Related to Skin Barrier Function, Disease Severity and Local Cytokine Milieu

Dysfunctional skin barrier plays a key role in the pathophysiology of atopic dermatitis (AD), a common inflammatory skin disease. Altered composition of ceramides is regarded as a major cause of skin barrier dysfunction, however it is not clear whether these changes are intrinsic or initiated by inflammation and aberrant immune response in AD. This study investigated the levels of free sphingoid bases (SBs) sphingosine and sphinganine and their ceramides and glucosylceramide in the stratum corneum (SC) and related them to skin barrier function, disease severity and local cytokine milieu. Ceramides were measured in healthy skin, and lesional and non-lesional skin of AD patients by a novel method based on deacylation of ceramides which were subsequently determined as corresponding sphingoid bases by using liquid chromatography–tandem mass spectrometry (LC–MS/MS). The cytokine levels were determined by multiplex immunoassay. Atopic skin showed increased levels of most investigated markers, predominantly in lesional skin. The largest difference in respect to healthy skin was found for glucosylceramide with respective median values of 0.23 (IQR 0.18–0.61), 0.56 (IQR 0.32–0.76) and 19.32 (IQR 7.86–27.62) pmol/µg protein for healthy, non-lesional and lesional skin. The levels of investigated ceramide markers were correlated with disease severity (scoring atopic dermatitis, SCORAD) and skin barrier function (trans-epidermal water loss, TEWL) and furthermore with cytokines involved in innate, Th-1, and Th-2 immune response. Interestingly, the strongest association with SCORAD was found for sphinganine/sphingosine ratio (r = ‒0.69, p < 0.001; non-lesional skin), emphasizing the importance of SBs in AD. The highest correlation with TEWL was found for glucosylceramide (r² = 0.60, p < 0.001), which was investigated for the first time in AD. Findings that the changes in SBs and ceramide levels were predominant in lesional skin and their association with disease severity and cytokine levels suggest an immune-system driven effect. A novel analysis method demonstrates a robust and simple approach that might facilitate wider use of lipid biomarkers in the clinics e.g., to monitor (immune) therapy or dissect disease endotypes.

Skin of atopic dermatitis patients shows disturbed β-glucocerebrosidase and acid sphingomyelinase activity that relates to changes in stratum corneum lipid composition

Patients with Atopic Dermatitis (AD) suffer from inflamed skin and skin barrier defects. Proper formation of the outermost part of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), is crucial for the skin barrier function. In this study we analyzed the localization and activity of lipid enzymes β-glucocerebrosidase (GBA) and acid sphingomyelinase (ASM) in the skin of AD patients and controls. Localization of both the expression and activity of GBA and ASM in the epidermis of AD patients was altered, particularly at lesional skin sites. These changes aligned with the altered SC lipid composition. More specifically, abnormal localization of GBA and ASM related to an increase in specific ceramide subclasses [AS] and [NS]. Moreover we related the localization of the enzymes to the amounts of SC ceramide subclasses and free fatty acids (FFAs). We report a correlation between altered localization of active GBA and ASM and a disturbed SC lipid composition. Localization of antimicrobial peptide beta-defensin-3 (HBD-3) and AD biomarker Thymus and Activation Regulated Chemokine (TARC) also appeared to be diverging in AD skin compared to control. This research highlights the relation between correct localization of expressed and active lipid enzymes and a normal SC lipid composition for a proper skin barrier.

Effects of omega-O-acylceramide structures and concentrations in healthy and diseased skin barrier lipid membrane models

Ceramides (Cers) with ultralong (∼32-carbon) chains and ω-esterified linoleic acid, composing a subclass called omega-O-acylceramides (acylCers), are indispensable components of the skin barrier. Normal barriers typically contain acylCer concentrations of ∼10 mol%; diminished concentrations, along with altered or missing long periodicity lamellar phase (LPP), and increased permeability accompany an array of skin disorders, including atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and ichthyoses. We developed model membranes to investigate the effects of the acylCer structure and concentration on skin lipid organization and permeability. The model membrane systems contained six to nine Cer subclasses as well as fatty acids, cholesterol, and cholesterol sulfate; acylCer content-namely, acylCers containing sphingosine (Cer EOS), dihydrosphingosine (Cer EOdS), and phytosphingosine (Cer EOP) ranged from zero to 30 mol%. Systems with normal physiologic concentrations of acylCer mixture mimicked the permeability and nanostructure of human skin lipids (with regard to LPP, chain order, and lateral packing). The models also showed that the sphingoid base in acylCer significantly affects the membrane architecture and permeability and that Cer EOP, notably, is a weaker barrier component than Cer EOS and Cer EOdS. Membranes with diminished or missing acylCers displayed some of the hallmarks of diseased skin lipid barriers (i.e., lack of LPP, less ordered lipids, less orthorhombic chain packing, and increased permeability). These results could inform the rational design of new and improved strategies for the barrier-targeted treatment of skin diseases.

Multimodal, in Situ Imaging of Ex Vivo Human Skin Reveals Decrease of Cholesterol Sulfate in the Neoepithelium during Acute Wound Healing

Skin repair is a significant aspect of human health. While the makeup of healthy stratum corneum and epidermis is generally understood, the mobilization of molecular components during skin repair remains largely unknown. In the present work, we utilize multimodal, in situ, mass spectrometry, and immunofluorescence imaging for the characterization of newly formed epidermis, following an initial acute wound for the first 96 h of epithelization. In particular, TOF-SIMS and confirmatory MALDI FT-ICR MS (/MS) analysis permitted the mapping of several lipid classes, including phospholipids, neutral lipids, cholesterol, ceramides, and free fatty acids. Endogenous lipid species were localized in discrete epidermal skin layers, including the stratum corneum (SC), stratum granulosum (SG), stratum basale (SB), and dermis. Experiments revealed that healthy re-epithelializing skin is characterized by diminished cholesterol sulfate signal along the stratum corneum toward the migrating epithelial tongue. The spatial distribution and relative abundances of cholesterol sulfate are reported and correlated with the healing time. The multimodal imaging approach enabled in situ high-confidence chemical mapping based on accurate mass and fragmentation pattern of molecular components. The use of postanalysis immunofluorescence imaging from the same tissue confirmed the localization of endogenous lipid species and Filaggrin and Cav-1 proteins at high spatial resolution (approximately a few microns).

Barrier Capability of Skin Lipid Models: Effect of Ceramides and Free Fatty Acid Composition

The skin is an effective barrier that prevents the influx of harmful substances from the environment and the efflux of body fluid. This barrier function is ascribed to the intercellular lipids present in the outermost layer of the skin referred to as the stratum corneum (SC). These lipids are composed mainly of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol, and free fatty acids (FFAs). Alterations in the SC lipid composition and barrier function impairment occur in several skin diseases including atopic dermatitis (AD). As the etiology of AD is multifactorial, establishing the relationship between the changes in SC lipid composition and barrier function impairment in the patients remains a challenge. Here, we employed model membrane systems to investigate the contribution of various anomalies in the SC CER and FFA composition observed in AD patients' skin to the barrier dysfunction. Using ethyl-p-aminobenzoate permeation and transepidermal water loss values as markers for barrier function, we determined that the alterations in SC lipid composition contribute to the impaired barrier function in AD patients. By the use of biophysical techniques, we established that the largest reduction in barrier capability was observed in the model with an increased fraction of short-chain FFAs, evident by the decrease in chain packing density. Modulations in the CER subclass composition impacted the lamellar organization while having a smaller effect on the barrier function. These findings provide evidence that AD therapies normalizing the FFA composition are at least as important as normalizing CER composition.

The impact of recent advances in lipidomics and redox lipidomics on dermatological research

Dermatological research is a major beneficiary of the rapidly developing advances in lipid analytic technology and of bioinformatic tools which help to decipher and interpret the accumulating big lipid data. At its interface with the environment, the epidermis develops a blend of lipids that constitutes the epidermal lipid barrier, essential for the protection from water loss and entry of dangerous noxae. Apart from their structural role in the barrier, novel intra- and inter-cellular signaling functions of lipids and their oxidation products have been uncovered in most cutaneous cell types over the last decades, and the discovery rate has been boosted by the advent of high resolution and -throughput mass spectrometric techniques. Our understanding of epidermal development has benefited from studies on fetal surface lipids, which appear to signal for adaptation to desiccation post partum, and from studies on the dynamics of epidermal lipids during adjustment to the atmosphere in the first months of life. At birth, external insults begin to challenge the skin and its lipids, and recent years have yielded ample insights into the dynamics of lipid synthesis and -oxdiation after UV exposure, and upon contact with sensitizers and irritants. Psoriasis and atopic dermatitis are the most common chronic inflammatory skin diseases, affecting at least 3% and 7% of the global population, respectively. Consequently, novel (redox-) lipidomic techniques have been applied to study systemic and topical lipid abnormalities in patient cohorts. These studies have refined the knowledge on eicosanoid signaling in both diseases, and have identified novel biomarkers and potential disease mediators, such as lipid antigens recognized by psoriatic T cells, as well as ceramide species, which specifically correlate with atopic dermatitis severity. Both biomarkers have yielded novel mechanistic insights. Finally, the technological progress has enabled studies to be performed that have monitored the consequences of diet, lifestyle, therapy and cosmetic intervention on the skin lipidome, highlighting the translational potential of (redox-) lipidomics in dermatology.

Modulation of the Lipid Profile of Reconstructed Skin Substitutes after Essential Fatty Acid Supplementation Affects Testosterone Permeability

Skin models with efficient skin barrier function are required for percutaneous absorption studies. The contribution of media supplementation with n-3 and n-6 polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs) to the development of the skin barrier function of in vitro skin models remains incompletely understood. To investigate whether PUFAs, alpha-linolenic acid (ALA, n-3 PUFA) and linoleic acid (LA, n-6 PUFA), could enhance the impermeability of a three-dimensional reconstructed human skin model, skin substitutes were produced according to the self-assembly method using culture media supplemented with either 10 μM ALA or 10 μM LA. The impact of PUFAs on skin permeability was studied by using a Franz cell diffusion system to assess the percutaneous absorption of testosterone and benzoic acid. Our findings showed that ALA supplementation induced a decrease in the absorption of testosterone, while LA supplementation did not significantly influence the penetration of testosterone and benzoic acid under present experimental conditions. Both ALA and LA were incorporated into phospholipids of the skin substitutes, resulting in an increase in n-3 total PUFAs or n-6 total PUFAs. Collectively, these results revealed the under-estimated impact of n-3 PUFA supplementation as well as the importance of the n-6 to n-3 ratio on the formation of the skin barrier of in vitro reconstructed human skin models.

Long and very long lamellar phases in model stratum corneum lipid membranes

Membrane models of the stratum corneum (SC) lipid barrier, either healthy or affected by recessive X-linked ichthyosis, constructed from ceramide [Cer; nonhydroxyacyl sphingosine N-tetracosanoyl-d-erythro-sphingosine (CerNS24) alone or with omega-O-acylceramide N-(32-linoleyloxy)dotriacontanoyl-d-erythro-sphingosine (CerEOS)], FFAs(C16-24), cholesterol (Chol), and sodium cholesteryl sulfate (CholS) were investigated. X-ray diffraction (XRD) revealed a previously unreported polymorphism of the membranes. In the absence of CerEOS, the membranes formed a short lamellar phase (SLP; the repeat distance d = 5.3 nm), a medium lamellar phase (MLP; d = 10.6 nm), or very long lamellar phases (VLLP; d = 15.9 and 21.2 nm). An increased CholS-to-Chol ratio modulated the membrane polymorphism, although the CholS phase separated at ≥ 7 weight% (of total lipids). The presence of CerEOS led to the stable long lamellar phase (LLP) with d = 12.2 nm and prevented VLLP formation. Our XRD results agree well with recently published cryo-electron microscopy data for vitreous skin sections, while also revealing new structures. Thus, lamellar phases with long repeat distances (MLP and VLLP) may be formed in the absence of omega-O-acylceramide, whereas these ultralong Cer species likely stabilize the final SC lipid architecture of LLP by riveting the adjacent lipid layers.

Structural and barrier properties of the skin ceramide lipid bilayer: a molecular dynamics simulation study

Skin provides excellent protection against the harsh external environment and foreign substances. The lipid matrix of the stratum corneum, which contains various kinds of ceramides, plays a major role in the barrier function of the skin. Here we report a study of the effects of ceramide type on the structural and transport properties of ceramide bilayers using molecular dynamics (MD) simulations. Specifically, the effects of headgroup chemistry (number and positions of hydroxyl groups) and tail structure (unsaturation of the sphingoid moiety) on the structural and transport properties of various ceramide bilayers at 310 K were analyzed. Theoretical results for structural properties such as area per lipid, bilayer thickness, lateral arrangement, order parameter, and hydrogen bonding are reported here and compared with corresponding experimental data. Our study revealed that the presence of a double bond disrupts the bilayer packing, which leads to a low area compressibility modulus, a large area per lipid, and low bilayer thickness. Furthermore, the effect of structural changes on water permeation was studied using steered MD simulations. Water permeation was found to be influenced by headgroup polarity, chain packing, and the ability of the water to hydrogen bond with the ceramides. The molecular-level information obtained from the current study should aid the design of mixed bilayer systems with desired properties and provide the basis for the development of higher order coarse-grained models.

Effect of Chemical Permeation Enhancers on Skin Permeability: In silico screening using Molecular Dynamics simulations

Breaching of the skin barrier is essential for delivering active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs) for pharmaceutical, dermatological and aesthetic applications. Chemical permeation enhancers (CPEs) are molecules that interact with the constituents of skin’s outermost and rate limiting layer stratum corneum (SC), and increase its permeability. Designing and testing of new CPEs is a resource intensive task, thus limiting the rate of discovery of new CPEs. In-silico screening of CPEs in a rigorous skin model could speed up the design of CPEs. In this study, we performed coarse grained (CG) molecule dynamics (MD) simulations of a multilayer skin lipid matrix in the presence of CPEs. The CPEs are chosen from different chemical functionalities including fatty acids, esters, and alcohols. A multi-layer in-silico skin model was developed. The CG parameters of permeation enhancers were also developed. Interactions of CPEs with SC lipids was studied in silico at three different CPE concentrations namely, 1% w/v, 3% w/v and 5% w/v. The partitioning and diffusion coefficients of CPEs in the SC lipids were found to be highly size- and structure-dependent and these dependencies are explained in terms of structural properties such as radial distribution function, area per lipid and order parameter. Finally, experimentally reported effects of CPEs on skin from the literature are compared with the simulation results. The trends obtained using simulations are in good agreement with the experimental measurements. The studies presented here validate the utility of in-silico models for designing, screening and testing of novel and effective CPEs.

Nonhydroxylated 1-O-acylceramides in vernix caseosa

Vernix caseosa, the waxy substance that coats the skin of newborn babies, has an extremely complex lipid composition. We have explored these lipids and identified nonhydroxylated 1-O-acylceramides (1-O-ENSs) as a new class of lipids in vernix caseosa. These ceramides mostly contain saturated C11-C38 ester-linked (1-O) acyls, saturated C12-C39 amide-linked acyls, and C16-C24 sphingoid bases. Because their fatty acyl chains are frequently branched, numerous molecular species were separable and detectable by HPLC/MS: we found more than 2,300 molecular species, 972 of which were structurally characterized. The most abundant 1-O-ENSs contained straight-chain and branched fatty acyls with 20, 22, 24, or 26 carbons in the 1-O position, 24 or 26 carbons in the N position, and sphingosine. The 1-O-ENSs were isolated using multistep TLC and HPLC and they accounted for 1% of the total lipid extract. The molecular species of 1-O-ENSs were separated on a C18 HPLC column using an acetonitrile/propan-2-ol gradient and detected by APCI-MS, and the structures were elucidated by high-resolution and tandem MS. Medium-polarity 1-O-ENSs likely contribute to the cohesiveness and to the waterproofing and moisturizing properties of vernix caseosa.

State of the art in Stratum Corneum research: The biophysical properties of ceramides

This review is summarizing an important part of the state of the art in stratum corneum research. A complete overview on discoveries about the general biophysical and physicochemical properties of the known ceramide species' is provided. The ceramides are one of the three major components of the lipid matrix and mainly govern its properties and structure. They are shown to exhibit very little redundancy, despite the minor differences in their chemical structure. The results are discussed, compared to each other as well as the current base of knowledge. New interesting aspects and concepts are concluded or suggested. A novel interpretation of the 3-dimensional structure of the lipid matrix and its influence on the barrier function will be discussed. The most important conclusion is the presentation of a new and up to date theoretical model of the nanostructure of the short periodicity phase. The model suggests three perpendicular layers: The rigid head group region, the rigid chain region and, a liquid-like overlapping middle layer. The general principle of the skin barrier function is highlighted in regard to this structure and the ceramides biophysical and physicochemical properties. As a result of these considerations, the entropy vs. enthalpy principle is introduced, shedding light on the function as well as the effectiveness of the skin barrier. Additionally, general ideas to effectively overcome this barrier principle for dermal and transdermal delivery of actives or how to use it for specific targeting of the stratum corneum are proposed.

Impact of the ceramide subspecies on the nanostructure of stratum corneum lipids using neutron scattering and molecular dynamics simulations. Part I: impact of CER[NS]

For this study mixtures based on the ceramides [NS] (NS = non-hydroxy-sphingosine) and [AP] (AP = α-hydroxy-phytosphingosine) in a 2:1 and 1:2 ratio, together with cholesterol and lignoceric acid, were investigated. These mixtures are modelling the uppermost skin layer, the stratum corneum. Neutron diffraction, utilizing specifically deuterated ceramide molecules, was used to obtain a maximum amount of experimental detail. Highly detailed molecular dynamics simulations were used to generate even more information from the experimental data. It was possible to observe a single lamellar phase for both systems. They had a lamellar repeat distance of 5.43 ± 0.05 nm for the [NS]/[AP] 2:1 and a slightly shorter one of 5.34 ± 0.05 nm for the 1:2 system. The structure and water content was uninfluenced by excess humidity. Both the experimental and simulation data indicated slightly tilted ceramides, with their C24 chains overlapping in the lamellar mid-plane. This arrangement is well comparable to systems investigated before. The structure of both systems, except for the differing repeat distance, looks similar at first. However, on a smaller scale there were various distinct differences, demonstrating only low redundancy between the different ceramide species, despite only minor chemical differences. The mainly ceramide [AP] determined 1:2 system has a slightly smaller repeat distance. This is a result of a tighter arrangement of the lipids chain along the bilayer normal and increased overlapping of the long chains in the lamellar middle. For the CER[NS] some novel features could be shown, despite it being the overall most investigated ceramide. These include the low adaptability to changed lateral interactions, leading to an increased chain opening. This effect could explain its low miscibility with other lipids. The investigated model systems allows it to directly compare results from the literature which have used ceramide [NS] to the most recent studies using the phytosphingosine ceramides such as ceramide [AP].