Integrated design of emulsified cosmetic products: A review

Analyzing Emulsion Dynamics via Direct Visualization and Statistical Methodologies

Analytical centrifugation is a powerful technique that leverages the principles of centrifugal force and optical detection to characterize emulsion droplets in a label-free and high-throughput manner. Other advantages include minimal sample preparation effort and compatibility with a wide range of emulsion formulations. However, the resulting data can be rather complex and, thus, difficult to fully understand and interpret. To tackle this, we developed two analytical methodologies that enable an easy and intuitive understanding of the data as well as an objective, quantitative analysis and validated them using six model emulsions employing different surfactants. Through their application, insights with unprecedented clarity into dynamic emulsion behavior, stability mechanisms, and emulsion-based processes can be gained, facilitating advancements in fields such as food science, pharmaceuticals, and materials engineering.

Formulation of the Polysaccharide FucoPol into Novel Emulsified Creams with Improved Physicochemical Properties

Driven by the customers' growing awareness of environmental issues, the production of topical formulations based on sustainable ingredients is receiving widespread attention from researchers and the industry. Although numerous sustainable ingredients (natural, organic, or green chemistry-derived compounds) have been investigated, there is a lack of comparative studies between conventional ingredients and sustainable alternatives. In this study, olive oil (30 wt.%) and α-tocopherol (2.5 wt.%) containing oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions stabilized with the bacterial fucose-rich polysaccharide FucoPol were formulated envisaging their validation as cosmetic creams. After formula composition design by Response Surface Methodology (RSM), the optimized FucoPol-based emulsion was prepared with 1.5 wt.% FucoPol, 1.5 wt.% cetyl alcohol, and 3.0 wt.% glycerin. The resulting emulsions had an apparent viscosity of 8.72 Pa.s (measured at a shear rate 2.3 s^-1) and droplet size and zeta potential values of 6.12 µm and -97.9 mV, respectively, which are within the values reported for cosmetic emulsified formulations. The optimized formulation displayed the desired criterium of a thin emulsion system, possessing the physicochemical properties and the stability comparable to those of commercially available products used in cosmeceutical applications.

Formulation of a novel antibacterial topical treatment based on Magnetite-Buforin-II-silver nanobioconjugates

Community acquired infections caused by Meticillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA) have become a growing concern due to its impact on the world public health. This microorganism is a commonly spreading pathogen associated predominantly with skin infections and connected to other more severe conditions (septic shock, and generalized infection). The lack of highly effective antibiotics and treatments to control skin infections with S. aureus has led to the search of novel therapies using alternative agents such as antimicrobial peptides (AMPs). In order to obtain a viable administration route to counteract superficial skin infections (impetigo, abscesses, furuncles, and cellulitis), a topical formulation based on Magnetite-Buforin-II-silver nanobioconjugates as active antibacterial agents was designed by their dispersion in O/W concentrated emulsions. The prepared topical characterization indicated that O/W emulsions were stable in time, the droplets size remained within the appropriate values (∼1 µm) and their rheological properties, such as pseudoplastic and shear-thinning behavior, remained unchanged for up to 3 months. Additionally, hemolysis and platelet aggregation tests were acceptable (i.e., 14.72 ± 2.62% and 8.06 ± 2.90%, respectively) in compliance with the ISO-10993 standard. Furthermore, the treatment reduced significantly (p < 0.0001) the growth of both clinical isolated MRSA and wild Type S. aureus strains as evidenced by the contact diffusion method. These results are important in the context of proposing new alternatives that allow manage effectively the threat posed by the antibiotic resistant bacterial strains, which jeopardize the lives of thousands of people every year.

Development of Olive Oil and α-Tocopherol Containing Emulsions Stabilized by FucoPol: Rheological and Textural Analyses

Biobased raw materials like natural polysaccharides are increasingly sought by the cosmetic industry for their valuable properties. Such biodegradable and usually non-cytotoxic biopolymers are commonly used in skin-care products as rheological modifiers, bioemulsifiers and/or bioactive ingredients. FucoPol is a natural polysaccharide with reported biocompatibility, emulsion-forming and stabilizing capacity, shear-thinning behavior and bioactivity (e.g., antioxidant capacity, wound healing ability) that potentiate its utilization in skin-care products. In this study, olive oil and α-tocopherol containing emulsions were stabilized with FucoPol. Although the presence of α-tocopherol negatively impacted the emulsions’ stability, it increased their emulsification index (EI). Moreover, FucoPol outperformed the commercial emulsifier Sepigel^® 305, under the tested conditions, with higher EI and higher stability under storage for 30 days. The formulation of FucoPol-based emulsions with olive oil and α-tocopherol was studied by Response Surface Methodology (RSM) that allowed the definition of the ingredients’ content to attain high emulsification. The RSM model established that α-tocopherol concentration had no significant impact on the EI within the tested ranges, with optimal emulsification for FucoPol concentration in the range 0.7–1.2 wt.% and olive oil contents of 20–30 wt.%. Formulations with 25 wt.% olive oil and either 0.5 or 2.0 wt.% α-tocopherol were emulsified with 1.0 wt.% or 0.7 wt.% FucoPol, respectively, resulting in oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions. The emulsions had similar shear-thinning behavior, but the formulation with higher FucoPol content displayed higher apparent viscosity, higher consistency, as well as higher firmness, adhesiveness and cohesiveness, but lower spreadability. These findings show FucoPol’s high performance as an emulsifier for olive oil/α-tocopherol, which are supported by an effective impact on the physicochemical and structural characteristics of the emulsions. Hence, this natural polysaccharide is a potential alternative to other emulsifiers.

Unlocking the Hidden Potential of Cosmetics Waste for Building Sustainable Green Pavements in the Future: A Case Study of Discarded Lipsticks

This investigation is dedicated to unlocking the hidden potential of discarded cosmetics towards building green sustainable road pavements in the future. It is particularly aiming at exploring waste lipstick (WLS) as a high-quality functional additive for advanced asphalt mix technologies. To fuel this novel innovation, the effect of various WLS doses (e.g., 5, 10, and 15 wt.%) on the performance of base AP-5 asphalt cement was studied in detail. A wide array of cutting-edge analytical lab techniques was employed to inspect in-depth the physicochemical, microstructural, thermo-morphological, and rheological properties of resultant admixtures including: elemental analysis, Fourier transform-infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), X-ray diffraction (XRD), thin-layer chromatography-flame ionization detection (TLC-FID), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), atomic force microscopy (AFM), thermogravimetric analysis (TGA), differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), needle penetration, ring and ball softening point, Brookfield viscometer, ductility, and dynamic shear rheometer (DSR) tests. Unlike the unstable response of asphaltenes, the additive/artificial aging treatments increased the fraction of resins the most, and decreased that of aromatics; however, asphaltenes did not impair the saturates portion, according to Iatroscan research. FT-IR scan divulged that the WLS-asphalt interaction was physical rather than chemical. XRD diagnosis not only revealed an obvious correlation between the asphaltenes content and the fresh-binder crystallinity but also revealed the presence of fillers in the WLS, which may generate outstanding technical qualities to bituminous mixes. According to AFM/SEM analyses, the stepwise incorporation of WLS grew the magnitude of the "bee-shaped" microstructures and extended the roughness rate of unaged/aged binders. The prolonged consumption of the high thermal-stable additive caused a remarkable drop in the onset degradation and glass transition temperature of mixtures, thus enhancing their workability and low-temperature performance, according to TGA/DTGA/DSC data. The DSR and empirical rheological experiments demonstrated that the WLS could effectively lower the manufacturing and compaction temperatures of asphalt mixes and impart them with valuable anti-aging/fatigue-cracking assets. In a nutshell, the use of waste lipstick as an asphalt modifier is viable and cost-effective and could attenuate the pollution arisen from the beauty sector, while improving the performance of hot/warm asphalt mixes (HAM/WAM) and extending the service life of roadways.

Machine Learning in Chemical Product Engineering: The State of the Art and a Guide for Newcomers

Chemical Product Engineering (CPE) is marked by numerous challenges, such as the complexity of the properties–structure–ingredients–process relationship of the different products and the necessity to discover and develop constantly and quickly new molecules and materials with tailor-made properties. In recent years, artificial intelligence (AI) and machine learning (ML) methods have gained increasing attention due to their performance in tackling particularly complex problems in various areas, such as computer vision and natural language processing. As such, they present a specific interest in addressing the complex challenges of CPE. This article provides an updated review of the state of the art regarding the implementation of ML techniques in different types of CPE problems with a particular focus on four specific domains, namely the design and discovery of new molecules and materials, the modeling of processes, the prediction of chemical reactions/retrosynthesis and the support for sensorial analysis. This review is further completed by general guidelines for the selection of an appropriate ML technique given the characteristics of each problem and by a critical discussion of several key issues associated with the development of ML modeling approaches. Accordingly, this paper may serve both the experienced researcher in the field as well as the newcomer.