Determination of suspected fragrance allergens in cosmetics by matrix solid-phase dispersion gas chromatography–mass spectrometry analysis

Experimental study for inorganic and organic profiling of toy makeup products: Estimating the potential threat to child health

Inorganic elements are added to toys as impurities to give desired stability, brightness, flexibility, and color; however, these elements may cause numerous health issues after acute or chronic exposure. In this study, the inorganic profile of 14 elements (Al, As, Ba, Cd, Co, Cr, Cu, Hg, Mn, Ni, Se, Sb, Pb, and Zn) in 63 toy makeup products was identified by inductively coupled plasma-mass spectrometry after microwave acid digestion method. Additionally, organic allergen fragrance was investigated by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. The systemic exposure dosage (SED), margin of safety (MoS), lifetime cancer risk (LCR), hazard quotient (HQ), and hazard indices were used to assess the safety evaluation. Then, 57 out of 63 samples (90.48%) exceeded the limits at least for one toxic element with descending order Ni > Cr > Co > Pb > Sb > Cd > As > Hg. The SED values were compared with tolerable daily intake values and remarkably differences were found for Al and Pb. The MoS values for 57.15% of samples exceeded the limit value for Al, As, Cd, Co, Hg, Mn, Sb, and Zn elements. The LCR values were observed at 100% (n = 63), 79.37% (n = 50), 85.71% (n = 54), 77.78% (n = 49), and 18.87% (n = 10) for Cr, Ni, As, Pb, and Cd, respectively. Also, the skin sensitization risks were obtained for Cr and Ni at 26.980% (n = 17) and 9.52% (n = 6), respectively. The HQ values for 80% of samples were found to be ≥ 1 at least for one parameter. The investigation of fragrance allergens in samples did not show any significant ingredients. As a result, toy makeup products marketed in local stores were found to be predominantly unsafe. Children should be protected from harmful chemicals by regular monitoring and strict measures.

Electrochemical sensing platform with gold nanoparticles capped by PDDA for benzyl alcohol determination

An electrochemical sensor has been developed, by modifying screen-printed carbon devices (SPCE) with photochemically synthesized gold nanoparticles (AuNP), to determine benzyl alcohol, a preservative widely used in the cosmetic industry. To obtain the AuNP with the best properties for electrochemical sensing applications, the photochemical synthesis was optimized using chemometric tools. A response surface methodology based on central composite design was used to optimize the synthesis conditions, as irradiation time, and the concentrations of metal precursor and the capping/reducing agent (poly(diallyldimethylammonium) chloride, PDDA). The anodic current of benzyl alcohol on SPCE modified with the AuNP was used as response of the system. The best electrochemical responses were obtained using the AuNP generated by irradiating for 18 min a 7.20 [Formula: see text] 10^-4 mol L^-1 AuCl₄^--1.7% PDDA solution. The AuNP were characterized by transmission electron microscopy, cyclic voltammetry and dynamic light scattering. The nanocomposite-based sensor formed by the optimal AuNP (AuNP@PDDA/SPCE) was used to determine benzyl alcohol by linear sweep voltammetry in 0.10 mol L^-1 KOH. The anodic current at + 0.017 ± 0.003 V (vs. AgCl) was used as analytical signal. Detection limit obtained under these conditions was 2.8 µg mL^-1. The AuNP@PDDA/SPCE was applied to determine benzyl alcohol  in cosmetic samples.

Hydrophobic Natural Eutectic Solvents for the Gas Chromatographic Determination of Suspected Allergens in Fragrances by Dispersive Liquid-Liquid Microextraction

The fragrance industry plays a key role in the global economy, producing a wide range of personal care and household products. However, some fragrance ingredients have been linked to allergic reactions in sensitive people, and their concentrations are regulated at the European level. For this reason, reliable, rapid, and sustainable analytical methods are needed to rapidly detect and quantify these compounds. Recently, a new class of hydrophobic eutectic solvents (HES) has been introduced; they consist of natural terpenoids or phenolic compounds that can be used as hydrogen bond donors (HBD) and acceptors (HBA), and they are more suitable for GC applications due to their higher volatility. In this study, a dispersive liquid–liquid microextraction (DLLME) approach is proposed for the analysis and quantification of a range of allergens in hydroalcoholic perfumes. The optimized method requires only 50 µL of a natural HES (thymol–eugenol), which is readily dispersed by vortexing in 2 mL of sample. After centrifugation, the HES rich phase is diluted in 400 µL EtOH and directly injected into the GC-FID system. The proposed method has been successfully applied in the analysis and quantification of commercial fragrances, demonstrating good enrichment of target allergens and suitability for aqueous matrices analysis.

Determination of Droplet-Bound and Free Gas-Phase Fragrances Using a Filter-Incorporated Needle-Trap Device and Solid-Phase Microextraction Technologies

Some of the fragrance compounds in aerosols tend to remain trapped inside the droplets. The ability to capture these droplets would make it possible to desorb and transfer the analytes dissolved within for determination. In this study, we design a novel filter-incorporated needle-trap device and use it to capture fragrance compounds in droplets as well as the gas phase of seven aerosol spray samples. For comparison, thin-film and solid-phase microextraction were also employed to extract gas-phase-borne fragrances from the same sprays. The results revealed that the filter-incorporated needle-trap device enables the extraction of total concentrations due to its ability to trap fragrance-containing droplets, whereas thin-film and solid-phase microextraction are only able to extract unbound compounds present in the gas phase. In addition, the developed needle-trap device provided acceptable results, proving its applicability for the analysis of aroma in other samples, such as beer and soda.

Recent Advances in Sample Preparation for Cosmetics and Personal Care Products Analysis

The use of cosmetics and personal care products is increasing worldwide. Their high matrix complexity, together with the wide range of products currently marketed under different forms imply a challenge for their analysis, most of them requiring a sample pre-treatment step before analysis. Classical sample preparation methodologies involve large amounts of organic solvents as well as multiple steps resulting in large time consumption. Therefore, in recent years, the trends have been moved towards the development of simple, sustainable, and environmentally friendly methodologies in two ways: (i) the miniaturization of conventional procedures allowing a reduction in the consumption of solvents and reagents; and (ii) the development and application of sorbent- and liquid-based microextraction technologies to obtain a high analyte enrichment, avoiding or significantly reducing the use of organic solvents. This review provides an overview of analytical methodology during the last ten years, placing special emphasis on sample preparation to analyse cosmetics and personal care products. The use of liquid–liquid and solid–liquid extraction (LLE, SLE), ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE), solid-phase extraction (SPE), pressurized liquid extraction (PLE), matrix solid-phase extraction (MSPD), and liquid- and sorbent-based microextraction techniques will be reviewed. The most recent advances and future trends including the development of new materials and green solvents will be also addressed.

Deep eutectic solvent-based magnetic colloidal gel assisted magnetic solid-phase extraction: A simple and rapid method for the determination of sex hormones in cosmetic skin care toners

A simple rapid and efficient deep eutectic solvent-based magnetic colloidal gel (DES-MCG) assisted magnetic solid-phase extraction (MSPE) method followed by high performance liquid chromatography with a diode array detector (HPLC-DAD) was established for determination of four sex hormones (including ethinylestradiol, norgestrel, megestrol acetate and medroxyprogesterone acetate) in cosmetic skin care toners. The DES-MCG with the desirable advantages of high adsorbing ability was prepared by combining choline chloride/urea deep eutectic solvent and magnetic multiwalled carbon nanotubes (MMWCNTs). The synthesized DES-MCG was characterized using fourier transform infrared spectrometry (FTIR), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), transmission electron microscopy (TEM) and vibrating sample magnetometry (VSM). The cosmetic skin care toners were concentrated by a rotary evaporator and the obtained solutions were further purified by DES-MCG assisted magnetic solid-phase extraction. Response surface methodology (RSM) was applied for efficient optimization of the main variables in the extraction procedure. Under the optimized conditions, method detection limits and method quantitation limits were in the range of 1.2-6.6 ng mL^-1 and 4.4-26.6 ng mL^-1, respectively. The recoveries of the four sex hormones in different cosmetic skin care toners ranged from 80.1% to 118.8% and the precisions were no more than 0.35%. The developed method was successfully applied for the determination of sex hormones in cosmetic skin care toners.

Miniaturized Matrix Solid-Phase Dispersion for the Analysis of Ultraviolet Filters and Other Cosmetic Ingredients in Personal Care Products

A method based on micro-matrix solid-phase dispersion (μ-MSPD) followed by gas-chromatography tandem mass spectrometry (GC–MS/MS) was developed to analyze UV filters in personal care products. It is the first time that MSPD is employed to extract UV filters from cosmetics samples. This technique provides efficient and low-cost extractions, and allows performing extraction and clean-up in one step, which is one of their main advantages. The amount of sample employed was only 0.1 g and the extraction procedure was performed preparing the sample-sorbent column in a glass Pasteur pipette instead of the classic plastic columns in order to avoid plastizicer contamination. Factors affecting the process such as type of sorbent, and amount and type of elution solvent were studied by a factorial design. The method was validated and extended to other families of cosmetic ingredients such as fragrance allergens, preservatives, plasticizers and synthetic musks, including a total of 78 target analytes. Recovery studies in real sample at several concentration levels were also performed. Finally, the green extraction methodology was applied to the analysis of real cosmetic samples of different nature.

Current trends in sample preparation for cosmetic analysis

The widespread applications of cosmetics in modern life make their analysis particularly important from a safety point of view. There is a wide variety of restricted ingredients and prohibited substances that primarily influence the safety of cosmetics. Sample preparation for cosmetic analysis is a crucial step as the complex matrices may seriously interfere with the determination of target analytes. In this review, some new developments (2010-2016) in sample preparation techniques for cosmetic analysis, including liquid-phase microextraction, solid-phase microextraction, matrix solid-phase dispersion, pressurized liquid extraction, cloud point extraction, ultrasound-assisted extraction, and microwave digestion, are presented. Furthermore, the research and progress in sample preparation techniques and their applications in the separation and purification of allowed ingredients and prohibited substances are reviewed.

Liquid chromatography/tandem mass spectrometry for simultaneous determination of undeclared corticosteroids in cosmetic creams

RATIONALE

Undeclared corticosteroids in creams intended for frequent use might cause serious side-effects, especially in children. In order to prevent this or find the cause, it was essential to develop a method for quick detection and quantification of low levels of corticosteroids.

METHODS

Eleven corticosteroids were used in this study: prednisolone, methylprednisolone, prednisolone-21-acetate, fluocinolone acetonide, fluocinolone acetonide-21-acetate, hydrocortisone-21-acetate, dexamethasone, betamethasone, betamethasone dipropionate, clobetasol propionate and triamcinolone. Separation was achieved via liquid chromatography (LC), and mass spectrometric analysis was conducted by electrospray ionization triple-quadrupole mass spectrometry (MS/MS) in the multiple reaction monitoring mode using corticosterone as internal standard.

RESULTS

Good separation by using a gradient-elution LC/MS/MS method with run time of 25 min enabled the use of a segmented detection method and consecutive decrease in detection limits. The proposed method has been validated in the linearity range of 10-1000 ng/mL with coefficients of determination higher than 0.990. The method has shown to have very low limits of quantification (0.75-3 ng/mL) with satisfactory precision and accuracy for each of the corticosteroids.

CONCLUSIONS

An LC/MS/MS method for the rapid and simultaneous determination of low levels of eleven topical corticosteroids in creams was developed, optimized and validated. The proposed method can be used for testing of different products indicated for the treatment of atopic dermatitis, including "natural products", and "herbal creams" with "miraculous effects".

Ultrasound-assisted emulsification microextraction coupled with high-performance liquid chromatography for the simultaneous determination of fragrance allergens in cosmetics and water

A simple, inexpensive, and environmentally friendly method based on ultrasound-assisted emulsification microextraction followed by solidification of floating organic drop and high-performance liquid chromatography coupled to diode array detection was developed for the simultaneous determination of 18 potentially allergenic fragrance substances. Several parameters affecting the microextraction process were investigated in detail by the "one-variable-at-a-time" approach. Optimal conditions were the following: 50 μL of 2-dodecanol as extraction solvent, 10 mL of sample containing 150 g/L of salt, and 5 min of sonication at 35°C. Under the optimized conditions, method showed good linearity in the selected ranges, with squared correlation coefficients ranging from 0.948 to 0.999. Limits of detection ranged from 0.001 to 0.154 μg/mL and enrichment factors from 9 to 237. Precision of the method, expressed as relative standard deviation, was checked at two levels obtaining good results (3.3-14.4%). Recovery studies were made in baby bath water and in eau de cologne showing acceptable accuracy. Finally, the developed method was successfully applied to different commercial cosmetic and water samples. The most commonly found analyte was linalool followed by cinnamal and lilial. Most of the analyzed samples contained at least one of the target compounds.

HS-GC-MS method for the analysis of fragrance allergens in complex cosmetic matrices

Potential allergenic fragrances are part of the Cosmetic Regulation with labelling and concentration restrictions. This means that they have to be declared on the ingredients list, when their concentration exceeds the labelling limit of 10 ppm or 100 ppm for leave-on or rinse-off cosmetics, respectively. Labelling is important regarding consumer safety. In this way, sensitised people towards fragrances might select their products based on the ingredients list to prevent elicitation of an allergic reaction. It is therefore important to quantify potential allergenic ingredients in cosmetic products. An easy to perform liquid extraction was developed, combined with a new headspace GC-MS method. The latter was capable of analysing 24 volatile allergenic fragrances in complex cosmetic formulations, such as hydrophilic (O/W) and lipophilic (W/O) creams, lotions and gels. This method was successfully validated using the total error approach. The trueness deviations for all components were smaller than 8%, and the expectation tolerance limits did not exceed the acceptance limits of ± 20% at the labelling limit. The current methodology was used to analyse 18 cosmetic samples that were already identified as being illegal on the EU market for containing forbidden skin whitening substances. Our results showed that these cosmetic products also contained undeclared fragrances above the limit value for labelling, which imposes an additional health risk for the consumer.

Development and application of chemometric-assisted dispersive liquid-liquid microextraction for the determination of suspected fragrance allergens in water samples

A simple and green method based on dispersive liquid-liquid microextraction, mated to chemometrics and followed by mass spectrometric detection for the determination of suspected fragrance allergens in water samples is developed and assessed in this work. Volume of extraction and disperser solvent, pH, ionic strength, extraction time, sample volume, as well as centrifugation time were initially optimized in a fractional factorial design. The obtained significant factors were optimized by using a central composite design and the quadratic model between the dependent and the independent variables was built. The obtained optimal conditions were: aqueous sample of 3.8 mL, 100 μL chloroform, 1.40 mL acetone, 4 min centrifugation time, natural pH containing 5% (w/v) NaCl, and centrifugation speed 4000 rpm. Method proved to be linear over a wide range of concentration for all analytes with R(2) between 0.9807 and 0.9959. The repeatability and reproducibility of the proposed method, expressed as relative standard deviation, varied between 3-13% and 4-16%, respectively. The limits of detection ranged from 0.007 to 1.0 μg L(-1) . The recommended method was applied to water samples including baby bath as well as swimming pool water samples and was compared with a previously reported method.

Hybrid field-assisted solid-liquid-solid dispersive extraction for the determination of organochlorine pesticides in tobacco with gas chromatography

A novel one-step sample preparation technique termed hybrid field-assisted solid-liquid-solid dispersive extraction (HF-SLSDE) was developed in this study. A simple glass system equipped with a condenser was designed as an extraction vessel. The HF-SLSDE technique was a three-phase dispersive extraction approach. Target analytes were extracted from the sample into the extraction solvent enhanced by the hybrid field. Meanwhile, the interfering components were adsorbed by dispersing sorbent. No cleanup step preceded chromatographic analysis. The efficiency of the HF-SLSDE approach was demonstrated in the determination of organochlorine pesticide (OCP) residues in tobacco with a gas chromatography-electron capture detector (GC-ECD). Various operation conditions were studied systematically. Low detection limits (0.3-1.6 μg/kg) and low quantification limits (1.0-4.5 μg/kg) were achieved under the optimized conditions. The recoveries of OCPs ranged from 70.2% to 118.2%, with relative standard deviations of <9.6%, except for the lowest fortification level. Because of the effect of the hybrid field, HF-SLSDE showed significant predominance compared with other extraction techniques. The dispersing sorbent with good cleanup ability used in this study was also found to be a microwave absorption medium, which could heat the nonpolar extraction solvent under microwave irradiation. Different microstructures of tobacco samples before and after extractions demonstrated the mechanism of HF-SLSDE was based on an explosion at the cell level. According to the results, HF-SLSDE was proved to be a simple and effective sample preparation method for the analysis of pesticide residues in solid samples and could potentially be extended to other nonpolar target analytes in a complex matrix.