Comprehensive screening of 63 coloring agents in cosmetics using matrix solid-phase dispersion and ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with quadrupole-Orbitrap high-resolution mass spectrometry

Decoding Cosmetic Complexities: A Comprehensive Guide to Matrix Composition and Pretreatment Technology

Despite advancements in analytical technologies, the complex nature of cosmetic matrices, coupled with the presence of diverse and trace unauthorized additives, hinders the application of these technologies in cosmetics analysis. This not only impedes effective regulation of cosmetics but also leads to the continual infiltration of illegal products into the market, posing serious health risks to consumers. The establishment of cosmetic regulations is often based on extensive scientific experiments, resulting in a certain degree of latency. Therefore, timely advancement in laboratory research is crucial to ensure the timely update and adaptability of regulations. A comprehensive understanding of the composition of cosmetic matrices and their pretreatment technologies is vital for enhancing the efficiency and accuracy of cosmetic detection. Drawing upon the China National Medical Products Administration's 2021 Cosmetic Classification Rules and Classification Catalogue, we streamline the wide array of cosmetics into four principal categories based on the following compositions: emulsified, liquid, powdered, and wax-based cosmetics. In this review, the characteristics, compositional elements, and physicochemical properties inherent to each category, as well as an extensive overview of the evolution of pretreatment methods for different categories, will be explored. Our objective is to provide a clear and comprehensive guide, equipping researchers with profound insights into the core compositions and pretreatment methods of cosmetics, which will in turn advance cosmetic analysis and improve detection and regulatory approaches in the industry.

Inline phase transition trapping-selective supercritical fluid extraction-supercritical fluid chromatography: A green and efficient integrated method for determining prohibited substances in cosmetics

BACKGROUND

Developing an environmentally friendly and efficient integrated analytical approach is a cutting-edge topic in current analytical science. Due to the unique properties of supercritical carbon dioxide (sc-CO2), online supercritical fluid extraction-supercritical fluid chromatography (SFE-SFC) is developing rapidly and has been widely applied in many fields. However, it still faces several challenges such as peak broadening and matrix interference. In order to solve the problems, we developed an inline phase transition trapping-selective supercritical fluid extraction-supercritical fluid chromatography (PTT-SSFE-SFC)-tandem mass spectrometry (MS/MS) method in this study.

RESULTS

This method integrated extraction, purification, separation, and detection, which was applied to determine 114 prohibited substances in cosmetics within 33 min, covering ten categories. The PTT strategy trapped the extracts on the head of the column by transforming CO2 from a supercritical state to a gaseous state, preventing peak spreading and improving sensitivity. Several adsorbents were tested when analyzing aqueous samples to reduce matrix interference and absorb water. Compared with conventional online SFE-SFC, this method improved the matrix effects of 93 and 87 target substances in the toner and mask matrix, respectively. Because the integrated method reduced sample loss, it achieved high sensitivity with LODs ranging from 0.00104 μg L-1 to 3.09 μg L-1. Furthermore, compared with other reported green methods, the inline method showed advantages in automation, efficiency, sample amount, and waste volume.

SIGNIFICANCE AND NOVELTY

With the introduction of the PTT strategy and the adsorbent, the system obtained good peak shapes, high sensitivity, low matrix effect, and good recovery. Based on the results, inline PTT-SSFE-SFC-MS/MS as a green and efficient integrated method has great potential for analyzing low abundance and multiple categories of targets in complex samples.

Applications of mass spectrometry in cosmetic analysis: An overview

Mass spectrometry (MS) is a crucial tool in cosmetic analysis. It is widely used for ingredient screening, quality control, risk monitoring, authenticity verification, and efficacy evaluation. However, due to the diversity of cosmetic products and the rapid development of MS-based analytical methods, the relevant literature needs a more systematic collation of information on this subject to unravel the true potential of MS in cosmetic analysis. Herein, an overview of the role of MS in cosmetic analysis over the past two decades is presented. The currently used sample preparation methods, ionization techniques, and types of mass analyzers are demonstrated in detail. In addition, a brief perspective on the future development of MS for cosmetic analysis is provided.

Analysis of Prohibited and Restricted Ingredients in Cosmetics

The general public uses cosmetics daily. Cosmetic products contain substances (ingredients) with various functions, from skincare to enhancing appearance, as well as ingredients that preserve the cosmetic products. Some cosmetic ingredients are prohibited or restricted in certain geographical regions, such as the European Union and the United States of America, due to their potential to cause adverse effects such as cancer, birth defects, and/or developmental and reproductive disorders. However, the ingredients may be used in other regions, and, hence, the monitoring of the cosmetic ingredients actually used is important to ensure the safety of cosmetic products. This review provides an overview of recent analytical methods that have been developed for detecting certain ingredients that are restricted or prohibited by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and/or EU legislation on cosmetic products.

Characterization and determination of Benvitimod, an unknown risk substance in cosmetics, using nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy and HPLC-MS/MS

Ultra-high performance liquid chromatography-tandem high-resolution mass spectrometry, combined with preparative chromatography and nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy, a new method for identifying unknown risk substances structure in cosmetics has been established. Moreover, HPLC-MS/MS was developed for the determination of benvitimod in cosmetics. The sample was collected in Ultra-high performance liquid chromatography-tandem high-resolution mass spectrometry, the molecular formula of the unknown was obtained as C₁₇ H₁₈ O₂ . After preparative chromatography enrichment and purification, the enriched compound was scanned by nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy, and the chemical structure of the unknown was confirmed as benvitimod. Subsequently, the separation was determined in multiple reaction monitoring mode. The results showed that the linearity of benvitimod was good in the range of 1∼100 μg/L with the correlation coefficient r² >0.999; the limit of detection and quantification were 0.02 mg/kg and 0.067 mg/kg; the precision and stability were good; the average recoveries were 104.2%, 108.2% and 108.7% for low, medium and high spiked concentrations. Forty batches of cosmetics were screened, of which two batches were detected with illegal addition of benvitimod at 2.48 g/kg and 3.13 g/kg. The method effectively solved the loopholes in regulation and provided a research basis for the qualitative identification of structurally unknown compounds in cosmetics. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.

Recent Advances in Sample Preparation for Cosmetics and Personal Care Products Analysis

The use of cosmetics and personal care products is increasing worldwide. Their high matrix complexity, together with the wide range of products currently marketed under different forms imply a challenge for their analysis, most of them requiring a sample pre-treatment step before analysis. Classical sample preparation methodologies involve large amounts of organic solvents as well as multiple steps resulting in large time consumption. Therefore, in recent years, the trends have been moved towards the development of simple, sustainable, and environmentally friendly methodologies in two ways: (i) the miniaturization of conventional procedures allowing a reduction in the consumption of solvents and reagents; and (ii) the development and application of sorbent- and liquid-based microextraction technologies to obtain a high analyte enrichment, avoiding or significantly reducing the use of organic solvents. This review provides an overview of analytical methodology during the last ten years, placing special emphasis on sample preparation to analyse cosmetics and personal care products. The use of liquid–liquid and solid–liquid extraction (LLE, SLE), ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE), solid-phase extraction (SPE), pressurized liquid extraction (PLE), matrix solid-phase extraction (MSPD), and liquid- and sorbent-based microextraction techniques will be reviewed. The most recent advances and future trends including the development of new materials and green solvents will be also addressed.

Binary Eluent Based Vortex-Assisted Matrix Solid-Phase Dispersion for the Extraction and Determination of Multicomponent from Musk by Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry

A green, flexible, and effective strategy was proposed to quantify four target compounds (muscone, ethyl palmitate, ethyl oleate, and ethylparaben) from musk by binary eluent based vortex-assisted matrix solid-phase dispersion (MSPD) extraction coupled with GC/MS. Single-factor tests and orthogonal design were employed to optimize the MSPD parameters. In addition, the binary eluent system, methanol, and ethyl acetate 3 : 7 (v/v) were used to extract the target analytes. Finally, C ₁₈ was applied as the easily available dispersant and the sample powder was ground for 2 min. Thereafter, the mixture was rapidly extracted with the binary eluents under whirling for 3 min. Eventually, the analysis of the samples was completed within 12 min by GC/MS. All correlation coefficients (r) of four targets were more than 0.9991. The recoveries of all target compounds ranged from 92.8% to 101% while their RSDs were less than 6.94%. There was no significant matrix interference for the analysis. Thus, the combination of vortex-assisted MSPD with GC/MS was considered as a novel, rapid, and environmentally friendly quantitative approach for musk samples.

Miniaturized Matrix Solid-Phase Dispersion for the Analysis of Ultraviolet Filters and Other Cosmetic Ingredients in Personal Care Products

A method based on micro-matrix solid-phase dispersion (μ-MSPD) followed by gas-chromatography tandem mass spectrometry (GC–MS/MS) was developed to analyze UV filters in personal care products. It is the first time that MSPD is employed to extract UV filters from cosmetics samples. This technique provides efficient and low-cost extractions, and allows performing extraction and clean-up in one step, which is one of their main advantages. The amount of sample employed was only 0.1 g and the extraction procedure was performed preparing the sample-sorbent column in a glass Pasteur pipette instead of the classic plastic columns in order to avoid plastizicer contamination. Factors affecting the process such as type of sorbent, and amount and type of elution solvent were studied by a factorial design. The method was validated and extended to other families of cosmetic ingredients such as fragrance allergens, preservatives, plasticizers and synthetic musks, including a total of 78 target analytes. Recovery studies in real sample at several concentration levels were also performed. Finally, the green extraction methodology was applied to the analysis of real cosmetic samples of different nature.