Polyglycerol fatty acid ester surfactant-based microemulsions for targeted delivery of ceramide AP into the stratum corneum: formulation, characterisation, in vitro release and penetration investigation

Safety Assessment of Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Esters as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 274 polyglyceryl fatty acid esters. Each of the esters in this group is a polyether comprising 2 to 20 glyceryl residues, end-capped by esterification with simple carboxylic acids, such as fatty acids. Most of these ingredients are reported to function in cosmetics as skin-conditioning agents and/or surfactants. The Panel reviewed the available data and considered conclusions from their relevant previous reports, and determined that these ingredients are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment when formulated to be non-irritating.

Multilamellar ceramide core-structured microvehicles with substantial skin barrier function recovery

This study introduces a multilamellar ceramide core-structured microvehicle platform for substantial skin barrier function recovery. Our approach essentially focused on fabricating bacterial cellulose nanofiber (BCNF)-enveloped ceramide-rich lipid microparticles (CerMPs) by solidifying BCNF-armored oil-in-water Pickering emulsions. The oil drops consisted of Ceramide NP (a phytosphingosine backbone N-acylated with a saturated stearic acid) and fatty alcohols (FAs) with a designated stoichiometry. The thin BCNF shell layer completely blocked the growth of ceramide molecular crystals from the CerMPs for a long time. The CerMP cores displayed a multilamellar structure wherein the interlayer distance and lateral packing could be manipulated using FAs with different alkyl chain lengths. The CerMPs remarkably lowered the trans-epidermal water loss while restoring the structural integrity of the epidermis in damaged skin. The results obtained herein highlight that the CerMP system provides a practical methodology for developing various types of skin-friendly formulations that can strengthen the skin barrier function.

An Environmentally Friendly Inverse Microemulsion Method to Synthesize Polyacrylamide

Polyacrylamide (PAM) was prepared by a new method of inverse microemulsion polymerization, with (NH₄)₂S₂O₈-Na₂SO₃ as initiator and liquid paraffin/Span80-Op10/AM-H₂O-NaAc as polymerization system in this paper. The effects of initiator dosage, emulsifier dosage, monomer concentration, oil-water ratio, and temperature on molecular weight, electrical conductivity, particle size distribution, and monomer conversion were studied as well. The results indicate that that the more stable Polyacrylamide (PAM) polymer was prepared under the conditions of initiator dosage of 0.4~0.5%, emulsifier dosage of 55~60%, temperature of 40~45 °C, hydrophile-lipophile balance (HLB) value of 8.0~8.2, and NaAc concentration of 3%.

Exogenous Ceramide Serves as a Precursor to Endogenous Ceramide Synthesis and as a Modulator of Keratinocyte Differentiation

Since ceramide is a key epidermal barrier constituent and its deficiency causes barrier-compromised skin, several molecular types of ceramides are formulated in commercial topical agents to improve barrier function. Topical ceramide localizes on the skin surface and in the stratum corneum, but certain amounts of ceramide penetrate the stratum granulosum, becoming precursors to endogenous ceramide synthesis following molecular modification. Moreover, exogenous ceramide as a lipid mediator could modulate keratinocyte proliferation/differentiation. We here investigated the biological roles of exogenous NP (non-hydroxy ceramide containing 4-hydroxy dihydrosphingosine) and NDS (non-hydroxy ceramide containing dihydrosphingosine), both widely used as topical ceramide agents, in differentiated-cultured human keratinocytes. NDS, but not NP, becomes a precursor for diverse ceramide species that are required for a vital permeability barrier. Loricrin (late differentiation marker) production is increased in keratinocytes treated with both NDS and NP vs. control, while bigger increases in involucrin (an early differentiation marker) synthesis were observed in keratinocytes treated with NDS vs. NP and control. NDS increases levels of a key antimicrobial peptide (an innate immune component), cathelicidin antimicrobial peptide (CAMP/LL-37), that is upregulated by a ceramide metabolite, sphingosine-1-phosphate. Our studies demonstrate that NDS could be a multi-potent ceramide species, forming heterogenous ceramide molecules and a lipid mediator to enhance differentiation and innate immunity.

Ceramides in Skin Health and Disease: An Update

Ceramides are a class of sphingolipid that is the backbone structure for all sphingolipids, such as glycosphingolipids and phosphosphingolipids. While being a minor constituent of cellular membranes, ceramides are the major lipid component (along with cholesterol, free fatty acid, and other minor components) of the intercellular spaces of stratum corneum that forms the epidermal permeability barrier. These stratum corneum ceramides consist of unique heterogenous molecular species that have only been identified in terrestrial mammals. Alterations of ceramide molecular profiles are characterized in skin diseases associated with compromised permeability barrier functions, such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis and xerosis. In addition, hereditary abnormalities of some ichthyoses are associated with an epidermal unique ceramide species, omega-O-acylceramide. Ceramides also serve as lipid modulators to regulate cellular functions, including cell cycle arrest, differentiation, and apoptosis, and it has been demonstrated that changes in ceramide metabolism also cause certain diseases. In addition, ceramide metabolites, sphingoid bases, sphingoid base-1-phosphate and ceramide-1-phosphate are also lipid mediators that regulate cellular functions. In this review article, we describe diverse physiological and pathological roles of ceramides and their metabolites in epidermal permeability barrier function, epidermal cell proliferation and differentiation, immunity, and cutaneous diseases. Finally, we summarize the utilization of ceramides as therapy to treat cutaneous disease.

Optimal configuration of confocal Raman spectroscopy for precisely determining stratum corneum thickness: Evaluation of the effects of polyoxyethylene stearyl ethers on skin

Properties regarding stratum corneum (SC), the outermost membrane of the skin, remain an active area in dermatologic and cosmetic research. The reduced thickness of SC is associated with varied adverse statuses such as skin lipid deficiency, skin barrier dysfunctions and skin deceases, etc. Emulsifiers with existing irritative effects on skin components also face the risk of decreasing SC thickness. We have been focusing on the effects of PEGylated emulsifiers on the skin and have an interest in finding the role of their polyethylene glycol (PEG)-chain length in tuning skin irritations. With this aim, PEG-stearyl ethers with different numbers of hydrophilic chains were applied on the skin, and their influence on skin thickness was discovered to determine their skin barrier effect. Confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) with extensive application in skin research was used here. To obtain the precise determination of skin thickness, our secondary aim was to find the optimal CRS configuration referring to varied objectives and pinhole sizes where further study is still in demand. Therefore, SC thickness measured via eddy current approach served as reference. The applied PEG-stearyl ethers formed the system to achieve varied thicknesses. Results confirmed that the skin interactions rose with increasing PEG-chain length, however only up to a certain limit, with decreasing effects recorded from PEG-40 stearyl ether and no effects observed from PEG-100 stearyl ether. Simultaneously, CRS combined with water immersion objective and 50 μm pinhole presented the most consistent values to the references and exhibited better spectral intensity and signal-to-noise ratio. Correlation plots involving different cases of configurations were calculated for error corrections. Taken together, this work helps to identify the potential mechanisms governing the interactions between PEG-stearyl ethers and skin and offers powerful evidence of using CRS as a reliable alternative to obtain accurate thickness values.

Polyglycerol Ester-Based Low Energy Nanoemulsions with Red Raspberry Seed Oil and Fruit Extracts: Formulation Development toward Effective In Vitro/In Vivo Bioperformance

This study focuses on the development of biocompatible oil-in-water (O/W) nanoemulsions based on polyglycerol esters, as promising carriers for natural actives: red raspberry seed oil—RO and hydro-glycolic fruit extracts from red raspberry—RE and French oak—FE. Nanoemulsions were obtained via phase inversion composition (PIC) method at room temperature by dilution of microemulsion phase, confirmed by visual appearance, percentage of transmittance, microscopic, rheological and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) investigations. The results have shown that the basic RO-loaded formulation could be further enriched with hydro-glycolic fruit extracts from red raspberry or French oak, while keeping a semi-transparent appearance due to the fine droplet size (Z-ave: 50 to 70 nm, PDI value ≤ 0.1). The highest antioxidant activity (~92% inhibition of the DPPH radical) was achieved in the formulation containing both lipophilic (RO) and hydrophilic antioxidants (FE), due to their synergistic effect. The nanoemulsion carrier significantly increased the selective cytotoxic effect of RO towards malignant melanoma (Fem-X) cells, compared to normal human keratinocytes (HaCaT). In vivo study on human volunteers showed satisfactory safety profiles and significant improvement in skin hydration during 2 h after application for all nanoemulsions. Therefore, polyglycerol ester-based nanoemulsions can be promoted as effective carriers for red raspberry seed oil and/or hydro-glycolic fruit extracts in topical formulations intended for skin protection and hydration.

Synthesis, Characterization, Self-Assembly, and Irritation Studies of Polyglyceryl-10 Caprylates

1,4-dioxane should be less than or equal to 10 ppm in finished cosmetic products according to the recommendation of the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, but it is often generated as a by-product during the manufacturing process of poly(ethylene glycol) (PEG)-based derivatives. In order to avoid the possible risk caused by 1,4-dioxane, it might be a good choice for preparing cosmetic ingredients by using polyglycerin (PG) instead of PEG as a hydrophilic segment. In the present study, polyglyceryl-10 caprylates were synthesized by the esterification reaction between polyglycerin-10 and caprylic acid. FTIR and 1H NMR were utilized to confirm the chemical structures of the obtained polyglyceryl-10 caprylates. Light transmittance was availed to investigate the water solubility of polyglyceryl-10 caprylates. The self-assembly behavior, size, and size distribution of polyglyceryl-10 caprylates were investigated by dynamic light scattering. The makeup cleansing effect was also evaluated by in vitro and in vivo methods. Irritation was evaluated by hen's egg test-chorioallantoic membrane assay (HET-CAM). Results showed that polyglyceryl-10 monocaprylate could self-assemble into nanoparticles in the water at the concentration range of 2.5-10 wt% with a transparent appearance. The diameter of formed nanoparticles was around 100 nm with a narrow particle size distribution around 0.1 at the concentration of 2.5 wt% or 5 wt%. Polyglyceryl-10 monocaprylate exhibited good removal effect against makeup and excellent removal efficacy against pen eyeliner. The irritation of polyglyceryl-10 monocaprylate evaluated by HET-CAM at the concentration of 4 wt% was moderate irritant (irritation score = 8.4), which was lower than that of PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides (severe irritant, irritation score = 14.1). Therefore, polyglyceryl-10 monocaprylate might be a promising cosmetic ingredient for transparent makeup removing water.

Design strategies for programmable oligonucleotide nanotherapeutics

A systematic review on how to design different programmable nanotherapeutics using oligonucleotides as building blocks or as surface and matrix modifiers for controlled and targeted delivery of various therapeutic agents in presented.

Green Synthesis of Decaglycerol Laurates by Lipase-Catalyzed Transesterification of Methyl Laurate with Decaglycerol

Decaglycerol laurates have been widely used as emulsifiers in food, medicine, and cosmetic industries for many years. Currently, they are synthesized using alkaline catalysts under stringent conditions. Here, decaglycerol laurates were prepared through a green lipase-catalyzed process, employing the transesterification of methyl laurate with decaglycerol by the immobilized lipase (Novozym 435). Single-factor experiments and orthogonal test were used for reaction optimization. The optimum conditions were obtained as follows: reaction temperature of 65°C, a laurate/decaglycerol molar ratio of 2 : 1, an oscillating speed of 180 rpm, an enzyme dosage (based on amount of methyl laurate) of 8 wt.%, initial water content (based on the total substrate mass) of 5.0 wt.%, and reaction time of 4.5 h with 84.4% conversion of methyl laurate. The transesterification products were identified by electrospray ionization mass spectrometer. In addition, the surface activity of decaglycerol laurates was also characterized, and the surface tension of water was reduced to 33 mN·m−1 at a concentration magnitude of 10−5 g/mL.

Effective Topical Delivery of H-AgNPs for Eradication of Klebsiella pneumoniae-Induced Burn Wound Infection

The aim of the present study was to explore the therapeutic efficacy of microemulsion-based delivery of histidine-capped silver nanoparticles in eradicating Klebsiella pneumoniae-induced burn wound infection. The developed microemulsion was characterized on the basis of differential light scattering, phase separation, refractive index, and specific conductance. Emulgel was prepared and characterized on the basis of thixotropy, texture, differential scanning calorimetry, and release kinetics. Emulgel was further evaluated in skin irritation and in vivo studies, namely full-thickness K. pneumoniae-induced burn wound infection treatment via topical route. Efficacy of treatment was evaluated in terms of bacterial load, histopathology, wound contraction, and other infection markers. The developed emulgel provided significant in vivo antibacterial activity of histidine-capped silver nanoparticle preparations via topical route and resulted in reduction in bacterial load, wound contraction, and enhanced skin healing as well as decrement of inflammatory markers such as malondialdehyde, myeloperoxidase, and reactive nitrogen intermediate compared to untreated animals. The present study encourages the further employment of histidine-capped silver nanoparticles along with microemulsion-based drug delivery system in combating antibiotic-resistant topical infections.

Design strategies for physical-stimuli-responsive programmable nanotherapeutics

Nanomaterials that respond to externally applied physical stimuli such as temperature, light, ultrasound, magnetic field and electric field have shown great potential for controlled and targeted delivery of therapeutic agents. However, the body of literature on programming these stimuli-responsive nanomaterials to attain the desired level of pharmacologic responses is still fragmented and has not been systematically reviewed. The purpose of this review is to summarize and synthesize the literature on various design strategies for simple and sophisticated programmable physical-stimuli-responsive nanotherapeutics.

Development and characterization of bioresorbable polyglycerol esters and drug-loaded microparticles

Linear-hyperbranched co(polylactides) containing hyperbranched polyglycerol (PG) block were synthesized and characterized. An estimate of critical micelle concentration as well as aggregative stability and droplet sizes in the emulsion stabilized by the obtained polymers was made. It was shown that an architecture of linear-branched co(polylactides) defines its surface-active properties and characteristics of dispersion systems obtained from it. With an increase in PG block content in copolymers, critical micelle concentration and aggregative stability of emulsions increase. Polylactide microparticles were obtained by organic solvent evaporation technique using acetylsalicylic acid as a drug model. Some properties of microparticles, such as size, incorporation efficiency and in vitro release of immobilized substance, were examined. It was noticed that branching architecture of co(polylactides) has a significant influence on the properties of microparticles. On the one hand, the presence of large PG blocks in linear-branched macromolecules results in the formation of colloidal systems with higher aggregative stability of emulsions and smaller particle size; on the other hand, microparticles formed from such copolymers have lower incorporation efficiency towards water-soluble low-molecular-weight compounds and nonlinear release profile for these substances with a segment of accelerated primary release.

Potential Applications of Phyto-Derived Ceramides in Improving Epidermal Barrier Function

The outer most layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, consists of corneocytes which are coated by a cornified envelope and embedded in a lipid matrix of ordered lamellar structure. It is responsible for the skin barrier function. Ceramides (CERs) are the backbone of the intercellular lipid membranes. Skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis and aged skin are characterized by dysfunctional skin barrier and dryness which are associated with reduced levels of CERs. Previously, the effectiveness of supplementation of synthetic and animal-based CERs in replenishing the depleted natural skin CERs and restoring the skin barrier function have been investigated. Recently, however, the barrier function improving effect of plant-derived CERs has attracted much attention. Phyto-derived CERs (phytoCERs) are preferable due to their assumed higher safety as they are mostly isolated from dietary sources. The beneficial effects of phytoCER-based oral dietary supplements for skin hydration and skin barrier reinforcement have been indicated in several studies involving animal models as well as human subjects. Ingestible dietary supplements containing phytoCERs are also widely available on the market. Nonetheless, little effort has been made to investigate the potential cosmetic applications of topically administered phytoCERs. Therefore, summarizing the foregoing investigations and identifying the gap in the scientific data on plant-derived CERs intended for skin-health benefits are of paramount importance. In this review, an attempt is made to synthesize the information available in the literature regarding the effects of phytoCER-based oral dietary supplements on skin hydration and barrier function with the underlying mechanisms.

Controlled Penetration of a Novel Dimeric Ceramide into and across the Stratum Corneum Using Microemulsions and Various Types of Semisolid Formulations

Ceramides (CERs) are integral parts of the intercellular lipid lamellae of the stratum corneum (SC), which is responsible for the barrier function of the skin. Many skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis are associated with the depletion or disturbance of the level of CERs in the SC. Administration of an exogenous novel dimeric ceramide (dCER) deep into the SC may help to stabilize the SC barrier substantially and to treat some skin disease conditions. Consequently, with the help of the existing technology, it might be possible to formulate various pharmaceutical dosage forms that can facilitate penetration of dCER into the SC. Therefore, the penetration of dCER was studied using a high-performance liquid chromatography/atmospheric-pressure ionization/mass spectrometry method for the detection and quantification of exogenous dCER in the SC as well as other skin layers. Penetration studies were carried out in the Franz diffusion cell using excised human skin ex vivo. Penetration of dCER was studied with 3 model formulations: a colloidal formulation (microemulsion), a cream formulation with ethoxydiglycol as penetration enhancer and a nanoformulation. The highest concentrations of dCER in the different skin layers were found after application of the cream with penetration enhancer. Surprisingly, the lowest concentrations of dCER in the different skin layers were found after application of the microemulsion.

Skin diseases associated with the depletion of stratum corneum lipids and stratum corneum lipid substitution therapy

The skin is the largest organ of the body, whose main function is to protect the body against the loss of physiologically important components as well as harmful environmental insults. From the inside to the outside, the skin comprises three major structural layers: the hypodermis, the dermis and the epidermis. The epidermis contains four different sublayers, the stratum corneum (SC), stratum granulosum, stratum spinosum and stratum basale, where the barrier function of the skin mainly lies in the outermost layer of the epidermis, the SC. The SC contains corneocytes that are embedded in a lipid matrix existing in the form of lipid bilayers. The lipid bilayers are formed mainly from ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol, constitute the only continuous pathway across the SC and are responsible for the barrier function of the skin. However, the depletion or disturbance of SC lipids in the SC leads to a perturbation of the barrier function of the skin, and, conversely, several skin diseases such as psoriasis and atopic dermatitis are associated with the depletion of these SC lipids. Therefore, it is of paramount importance to understand the interrelationship between the depletion of SC lipids and skin diseases as well as factors that affect the composition and organization of SC lipids in order to assess the potential benefit of a direct replacement of the missing SC lipids as a means of treating affected, aged or diseased skin.

Preparation of curcumin microemulsions with food-grade soybean oil/lecithin and their cytotoxicity on the HepG2 cell line

The choice of surfactants and cosurfactants for preparation of oral formulation in microemulsions is limited. In this report, a curcumin-encapsulated phospholipids-based microemulsion (ME) using food-grade ingredients soybean oil and soybean lecithin to replace ethyl oleate and purified lecithin from our previous study was established and compared. The results indicated soybean oil is superior to ethyl oleate as the oil phase in curcumin microemulsion, as proven by the broadened microemulsion region with increasing range of surfactant/soybean oil ratio (approx. 1:1-12:1). Further preparation of two formula with different particle sizes of formula A (30nm) and B (80nm) exhibited differential effects on the cytotoxicity of hepatocellular HepG2 cell lines. At 15μM of concentration, curcumin-ME in formula A with smaller particle size resulted in the lowest viability (approx. 5%), which might be explained by increasing intake of curcumin, as observed by fluorescence microscopy. In addition, the cytotoxic effect of curcumin-ME is exclusively prominent on HepG2, not on HEK293, which showed over 80% of viability at 15μM. The results from this study might provide an innovative applied technique in the area of nutraceuticals and functional foods.

Controlled penetration of ceramides into and across the stratum corneum using various types of microemulsions and formulation associated toxicity studies

Several skin diseases such as psoriasis and atopic dermatitis are associated with the depletion or disturbance of stratum corneum (SC) lipids such as ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids and cholesterol. Studies suggested that replenishment of these lipids might help to treat diseased, affected or aged skin. With this premises in mind, there are some formulations in the market that contain SC lipids and currently, to facilitate permeation of the lipids deep into the SC, various CERs, and other SC lipid microemulsions (MEs) were developed and characterised using lecithin or TEGO® CARE PL 4 (TCPL4) as base surfactants. However, to date, there are no reports that involve the permeability of SC lipids into and across the SC, and therefore, the penetration of CER [NP] as a model ceramide from various formulations was investigated ex vivo using Franz diffusion cell. Besides, the toxicity of the MEs was assessed using hen's egg test chorioallantoic membrane (HET-CAM). The results of the study showed that CER [NP] could not permeate into deeper layers of the SC from a conventional hydrophilic cream. Unlike the cream, CER [NP] permeated into the deeper layers of the SC from both type of MEs, where permeation of the CER was more and into deeper layers from droplet type and lecithin-based MEs than bicontinuous (BC) type and TCPL4 based MEs, respectively. The CER also permeated into deeper layers from ME gels which was, however, shallow and to a lesser extent when compared with the MEs. The results of HET-CAM showed that both MEs are safe to be used topically, with lecithin-based MEs exhibiting better safety profiles than TCPL4 based MEs. Concluding, the study showed that the MEs are safe to be used on the skin for the controlled penetration of CER [NP] deep into the SC.

Lecithin-based microemulsions for targeted delivery of ceramide AP into the stratum corneum: formulation, characterizations, and in vitro release and penetration studies

PURPOSE

To improve the solubility and penetration of Ceramide AP (CER [AP]) into the stratum corneum that potentially restores the barrier function of aged and affected skin.

METHODS

CER [AP] microemulsions (MEs) were formulated using lecithin, Miglyol® 812 (miglyol) and water-1,2 pentandiol (PeG) mixture as amphiphilic, oily and hydrophilic components, respectively. The nanostructure of the MEs was revealed using electrical conductivity, differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) and electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) techniques. Photon correlation spectroscopy (PCS) was used to measure the sizes and shape of ME droplets. The release and penetration of the CER into the stratum corneum was investigated in vitro using a multi-layer membrane model.

RESULTS

The MEs exhibited excellent thermodynamic stability (>2 years) and loading capacity (0.5% CER [AP]). The pseudo-ternary phase diagrams of the MEs were obtained and PCS results showed that the droplets are spherical in shape and bigger in size. In vitro investigations showed that the MEs exhibited excellent rate and extent of release and penetration.

CONCLUSIONS

Stable lecithin-based CER [AP] MEs that significantly enhance the solubility and penetration of CER [AP] into the stratum corneum were developed. The MEs also have better properties than the previously reported polyglycerol fatty acid surfactant-based CER [AP] MEs.