Borago officinalis L. attenuates UVB-induced skin photodamage via regulation of AP-1 and Nrf2/ARE pathway in normal human dermal fibroblasts and promotion of collagen synthesis in hairless mice

Metabolites Obtained from Boraginaceae Plants as Potential Cosmetic Ingredients-A Review

One of the challenges of the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries is to deliver biochemical compounds that can be advantageous for the skin. Research on Boraginaceae taxa has confirmed their use in traditional medicine and proved the potential biological importance of various molecules in cosmetology. The main classes of valuable compounds associated with Boraginaceae taxa are fatty acids, including γ-linolenic acid, essential oils, phenolic acids (e.g., rosmarinic acid), flavonoids, anthocyanins, tannins, and saponins. Highly specific are naphthoquinone pigments (including shikonin) and allantoin. Another distinguishing feature is the accumulation of silica (silicon dioxide) in trichomes. Some taxa produce mucilages. However, pyrrolizidine alkaloids (PAs) with toxic properties are also found (mainly in Symphytum spp.); therefore, their applications should be avoided. Extracts or individual compounds of Boraginaceae plants are characterized by antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, anti-irritant, antiaging, and photoprotective activities. Boraginaceae products are widespread in the cosmetic industry as ingredients of creams, balms, lotions, gels, shampoos, lipsticks, perfumes, and deodorants. The most valuable for the cosmetic industry are raw materials obtained from the genera Alcanna Anchusa, Arnebia, Borago, Buglossoides, Cerinthe, Cordia, Echium, Ehretia, Eriodictyon, Glendora, Lappula, Lithospermum, Lycopsis, Macrotomia, Maharanga, Mertensia, Messerschmidia, Myosotis, Omphalodes, Onosma, Pulmonaria, Rindera, Symphytum, Trachystemon, and Trigonotis. Further research should focus on the search for active substances in other plants of the family.

KGF-2 ameliorates UVB-triggered skin photodamage in mice by attenuating DNA damage and inflammatory response and mitochondrial dysfunction

BACKGROUND

Long-term exposure to UVB induces DNA damage, inflammatory response, mitochondrial dysfunction, and apoptosis in skin cells, thus causing skin photodamage. Research has demonstrated the noteworthy antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, DNA repair, and mitochondrial protective properties of keratinocyte growth factor-2 (KGF-2).

METHODS

To examine the impact of KGF-2 on UVB-triggered skin photodamage in mice, hair-removed mice were initially exposed under UVB radiation and subsequently treated with KGF-2 hydrogel and repeated for 6 days. On day 7, the assessment of histopathological alterations, inflammation, DNA damage, mitochondrial function, and apoptosis in mouse skin was assessed.

RESULTS

It was found that KGF-2 could effectively relieve cutaneous photodamage symptoms and inhibit epidermal proliferation in mice. Meanwhile, KGF-2 was found to significantly reduce DNA damage, attenuate the inflammatory response, and inhibit the mitochondria-mediated intrinsic apoptotic pathway in the UVB-exposed mouse skin photodamage model.

CONCLUSION

To summarize, our results indicated that KGF-2 reduces the severity of mouse skin photodamage caused by UVB rays by attenuating DNA damage and the inflammatory response, besides inhibiting the mitochondria-mediated intrinsic apoptosis pathway.

Borago Officinalis L.: A Review Oon Extraction, Phytochemical, and Pharmacological Activities

Borago officinalis L., an annual herb belonging to the Boraginaceae family, is used in the traditional medical practices of various countries and for multiple treatments, including respiratory disorders, colds, influenza, diarrhea, cramps, inflammation, palpitation, hypertension menopause, and post-menopausal symptoms. Its pharmacological properties and biological activities - among them antioxidant, antimicrobial, anticancer, anti-inflammatory, insecticidal, antigenotoxic, and anti-obesity activity - were demonstrated in vitro and in vivo and are related to its rich content of bioactive compounds (mainly phenolic acids, flavonoids, anthocyanins, alkaloids, and terpenes) extracted from various parts of B. officinalis including leaves, flowers, seeds, and roots. This review summarizes all updated information on applied extraction processes, phytochemistry, pharmacology, and toxicity of B. officinalis.

Anti-Aging Potential of a Novel Ingredient Derived from Sugarcane Straw Extract (SSE)

Natural and sustainable anti-aging ingredients have gained attention from the cosmetic industry. This study evaluated the anti-aging potential of a sugarcane straw extract-based (SSE) cosmetic ingredient. First, cytotoxicity tests were assessed in keratinocytes and fibroblast cell lines, and sensitization was carried out through the direct peptide reactivity assay. Subsequently, various anti-aging properties were investigated, including inhibiting skin aging-related enzymes, promoting elastin and hyaluronic acid synthesis, and anti-pollution activity. Finally, a permeability assay using a synthetic membrane resembling skin was conducted. The results demonstrated that the SSE ingredient effectively inhibited elastase (55%), collagenase (25%), and tyrosinase (47%) while promoting hyaluronic acid production at non-cytotoxic and low-sensitizer concentrations. Moreover, it reduced the inflammatory response provoked by urban pollution, as evidenced by decreased levels of IL1-α and IL-6. However, it was observed that the phenolic compounds predominantly reached the skin's surface, indicating a limited ability to penetrate deeper layers of the skin. Therefore, it can be concluded that the SSE ingredient holds anti-aging properties, albeit with limited penetration into deeper skin layers. Further research and formulation advancements are needed to optimize the ingredient's ability to reach and exert its effects in deeper skin layers.

Phenolic Profile and Comparison of the Antioxidant, Anti-Ageing, Anti-Inflammatory, and Protective Activities of Borago officinalis Extracts on Skin Cells

In this study, methanol and water-methanol extracts of borage (Borago officinalis) herb dried using various methods were analysed for their phenolic profile and biological activity. Twelve compounds, including flavonoids (astragalin, kaempferol 4-glucoside, rutoside, and vitexin) and phenolic acids (caffeic, chlorogenic, 3,4-dihydroxyphenylacetic, ferulic, p-hydroxybenzoic, protocatechuic, rosmarinic, and syringic), were determined qualitatively and quantitatively in B. officinalis extracts by the HPLC-DAD method. The highest total flavonoid content was confirmed for the methanol extract from the hot-air-dried herb, while the methanol extract from the air-dried herb was most abundant in phenolic acids. The results of in vitro tests on human keratinocytes (HaCaT) and fibroblasts (BJ) showed that the extracts were able to reduce the intracellular level of reactive oxygen species in skin cells. Tests performed to assess inhibition of protein denaturation, lipoxygenase activity, and proteinase activity demonstrated that borage extracts have anti-inflammatory properties. In addition, the methanol extract of the herb dried in a convection oven showed the strongest inhibition of both collagenase and elastase activity, which is indicative of anti-ageing properties. The results show that the borage extracts are a source of valuable bioactive compounds with beneficial properties in the context of skin cell protection.

Moroccan medicinal plants traditionally used for the treatment of skin diseases: From ethnobotany to clinical trials

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Skin diseases are among the most common human health affections. A healthy skin promotes a healthy body that can be achieved through modern, allopathic and natural medicines. Therefore, medicinal plants can be a reliable therapy in treating skin diseases in humans through a diverse range of bioactive molecules they contain.

AIM OF THE STUDY

This review aims to provide for the first-time scientific evidence related to the dermatological properties of Morocco's medicinal plants and it aims to provide a baseline for the discovery of new drugs having activities against skin issues.

METHODS

This review involved an investigation with different search engines for Moroccan ethnobotanical surveys published between 1991 and 2021. The plants used to treat skin diseases have been determined. Information regarding pharmacological effects, phytochemical, and clinical trials related to the plants listed in this review was collected from different scientific databases like PubMed, Science Direct, Google Scholar, Web of Science and Scopus. The data were analyzed and summarized in the review.

RESULTS

A total of 401 plants belonging to 86 families mainly represented by Asteraceae, Lamiaceae, Fabaceae, and Apiaceae which have been documented to be in common use by Moroccans for managing skin diseases. Among those plants recorded, the most commonly used are Allium cepa L, Chamaeleon gummifer (L.) Cass and Salvia rosmarinus Schleid. Mill. Leaves were the most commonly used plant part, while powder and decoction were the most common method of traditional drug preparation. 107 of the 401 plants (27%) have undergone pharmacological validation. A total of 44 compounds isolated from 27 plants were investigated to treat different types of skin diseases, and 25 plants have been clinically studied for their activities against skin diseases.

CONCLUSION

The beneficial effects of using Moroccan medicinal plants to treat skin diseases, according to traditional practices, have been proven in numerous scientific studies. Therefore, other studies should focus on isolating and identifying specific bioactive compounds from plant extracts, revealing more valuable therapeutic properties. Furthermore, additional reliable clinical trials are needed to confirm their beneficial effect on patients with skin diseases.

Neuroprotective Profile of Edible Flowers of Borage (Borago officinalis L.) in Two Different Models: Caenorhabditis elegans and Neuro-2a Cells

The flowers of Borago officinalis L. (Boraginaceae), commonly known as borage, are widely used as a culinary ingredient. The aim of this study was to assess the potential benefits of fresh borage flower extract related to antioxidant, neuroprotective and anti-aging properties. The extract was obtained by Soxhlet extraction with ethanol as a solvent, and fatty acids were detected by GC-FID. The antioxidant activity was evaluated in vitro through the DPPH, FRAP and ORAC assays. Regarding the fatty acid (FA) composition, the extract showed high amounts of polyunsaturated FA. The Neuro-2a cell line was used to determine the cytoprotective capacity of the extract subjected to oxidative stress (H2O2). Moreover, the model organism Caenorhabditis elegans was used to assess antioxidant activity, delayed ageing as well as cytoprotection and reduced β-amyloid toxicity. Cells treated with the extract and H2O2 showed a better response to oxidative stress than the control group, particularly in terms of mitochondrial activity (MTT assay), redox state (ROS formation) and the activity of antioxidant enzymes (catalase and superoxide dismutase). B. officinalis flower extract showed promising antioxidant activity in the selected models, without causing toxicity. Hence, the results obtained support the antioxidant properties of borage flowers in different bioassays using living organisms.

Antiphotoaging Effects of Damiana (Turnera diffusa) Leaves Extract via Regulation AP-1 and Nrf2/ARE Signaling Pathways

Damiana (Turnera diffusa), of the family Passifloraceae, has been widely studied for its pharmacological effects, especially for antioxidant and antibacterial actions. However, there are limited scientific findings describing its antiphotoaging effects on the skin. In the present study, the underlying molecular mechanisms of the protective effect of Damiana were investigated in keratinocytes (HaCaTs) and normal human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) subject to UVB irradiation. The mRNA expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and procollagen type I was determined by reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction. The protein expression of antiphotoaging-related signaling molecules in the activator protein-1 (AP-1) and nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (NRF2)/antioxidant response element (ARE) pathways was assessed by Western blotting. We observed that Damiana blocked the upregulated production of reactive oxygen species induced in UVB-irradiated HaCaTs and HDFs in a dose-dependent manner. Treatment with Damiana also significantly ameliorated the mRNA expression of MMPs and procollagen type I. In addition, the phosphorylation level of c-Jun and c-Fos was also decreased through the attenuated expression of p-38, p-ERK, and p-JNK after treatment with Damiana. Furthermore, the treatment of cells with Damiana resulted in the inhibition of Smad-7 expression in the TGF-β/Smad pathway and upregulated the expression of the Nrf2/ARE signaling pathway. Hence, the synthesis of procollagen type I, a precursor of collagen I, was promoted. Collectively, these results provide us with the novel insight that Damiana is a potential source of antiphotoaging compounds.

Effect of ultraviolet radiation on the Nrf2 signaling pathway in skin cells

PURPOSE

Excessive exposure of skin to solar radiation is associated with greatly increased production of reactive oxygen and nitrogen species (ROS, RNS) resulting in oxidative stress (OS), inflammation, immunosuppression, the production of matrix metalloproteinase, DNA damage and mutations. These events lead to increased incidence of various skin disorders including photoaing and both non-melanoma and melanoma skin cancers. The ultraviolet (UV) part of sunlight, in particular, is responsible for structural and cellular changes across the different layers of the skin. Among other effects, UV photons stimulate oxidative damage to biomolecules via the generation of unstable and highly reactive compounds. In response to oxidative damage, cytoprotective pathways are triggered. One of these is the pathway driven by the nuclear factor erythroid-2 related factor 2 (Nrf2). This transcription factor translocates to the nucleus and drives the expression of numerous genes, among them various detoxifying and antioxidant enzymes. Several studies concerning the effects of UV radiation on Nrf2 activation have been published, but different UV wavelengths, skin cells or tissues and incubation periods were used in the experiments that complicate the evaluation of UV radiation effects.

CONCLUSIONS

This review summarizes the effects of UVB (280-315 nm) and UVA (315-400 nm) radiation on the Nrf2 signaling pathway in dermal fibroblasts and epidermal keratinocytes and melanocytes. The effects of natural compounds (pure compounds or mixtures) on Nrf2 activation and level as well as on Nrf2-driven genes in UV irradiated human skin fibroblasts, keratinocytes and melanocytes are briefly mentioned as well.HighlightsUVB radiation is a rather poor activator of the Nrf2-driven pathway in fibroblastsUVA radiation stimulates Nrf2 activation in dermal fibroblastsEffects of UVA on the Nrf2 pathway in keratinocytes and melanocytes remain unclearLong-term Nrf2 activation in keratinocytes disturbs their normal differentiationPharmacological activation of Nrf2 in the skin needs to be performed carefully.

Inhibition of Ultraviolet-B Radiation Induced Photodamage by Trigonelline Through Modulation of Mitogen Activating Protein Kinases and Nuclear Factor-κB Signaling Axis in Skin

Cutaneous photodamage is incited via exposure of ultraviolet-B (UV-B) radiation to skin, characterized by the manifestation of oxidative stress, inflammation, collagen degradation and apoptosis which translates to external aging signs such as wrinkle formation and leathery skin appearance. Meanwhile, it increases cellular susceptibility to photocarcinogenesis. Several studies have accumulated evidence regarding the usage of natural agents in reversing the clinical signs of photoaging as well as preventing photo-toxicity at molecular level. In this study, we have explored the therapeutic potential of natural agent Trigonelline (TG) against UV-B radiation mediated skin photodamage. Various parameters modulated by the exposure of UV-B radiation were investigated in human skin cells and chronic photodamage mice model (Balb/c). We found that TG alleviates UV-B radiation induced photodamage in human skin cells and Balb/c skin mice. TG treatment in UV-B irradiated skin cells abates UV-B radiation mediated phototoxicity, oxidative stress, inflammation and apoptosis. At molecular level, we observed TG treatment significantly prevents the reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation and lipid peroxidation, restores collagen synthesis and matrix metalloproteinase (MMPs) levels. The in vitro findings were replicated in the in vivo model. We found that the TG acts potentially via modulation of ROS-MAPKs-NF-κB axis. Collectively, we propose that TG acts antagonistically against UV-B mediated skin damage and has strong potential to be developed as a therapeutic and cosmetical agent against photodamage disorders.

A Review on the Phytochemistry, Ethnobotanical Uses and Pharmacology of Borago Species

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Borago L., (family Boraginaceae) is a small genus of annual or perennial herbs with branched flowers, which is commonly found in the Mediterranean region. Some species known as Gavzabȃn in Asian and some African countries are traditionally used instead of Borago. Aims of the review: The purpose of this study was to provide comprehensive scientific information on phytochemistry, traditional uses and pharmacological activities of Borago species to provide an insight into further research on the therapeutic potential of these plants. In many studies, it has been shown that different parts of Borago species, including leaves, flowers, seeds, roots and aerial parts possess numerous ethnobotanical values.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

All ethnobotanical, phytochemical, pharmacological, and clinical data were collected from online journals, magazines and books (all of which were published in English, Arabic, and Persian) from 1968 to 2018. Electronic databases such as Google, Google Scholar, PubMed, Science Direct, Researchgate, and other online collections were used.

RESULTS

The phytochemical studies on five species showed a wide range of phytochemicals belonging to different classes of secondary metabolites. From a pharmacological point of view, different extracts and fractions, essential oils, and pure compounds isolated from various Borago species have shown diverse activities in in vitro, in vivo, and clinical studies confirming various traditional uses of Borago genus.

CONCLUSION

Considering the reported activities of the Borago genus both in traditional and modern medicine, further studies on biological aspects and identification of the mechanism of action for drug discovery are highly required.

Food-derived bioactive compounds with anti-aging potential for nutricosmetic and cosmeceutical products

Besides providing essential nutrients for humans, food contains bioactive compounds that exert diverse biological activities such as anti-microbial, anti-cancerogenic, anti-viral, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant. The cosmetic industry is interested in natural bioactive compounds for their use in nutricosmetic and cosmeceutical products. These products aimed to reduce skin aging, inflammation or provide photoprotection against UV radiation. As a result, nutricosmetics and cosmeceuticals are becoming innovative self-care products in the beauty market. These products contain phytochemicals as active compounds obtained from fruits, vegetables, legumes, medicinal herbs and plants with anti-aging potential. This review summarizes the information within the last 5 years related to bioactive compounds present in fruits, vegetables, herbs and spices commonly used for human consumption. Their antioxidant and biological potential for modulating molecular markers involved in the aging process, as well as their mechanism of action. Diverse natural foods and their byproducts could be used as a source of bioactive compounds for developing cosmeceutical and nutricosmetic products.

The Glucosamine-derivative NAPA Suppresses MAPK Activation and Restores Collagen Deposition in Human Diploid Fibroblasts Challenged with Environmental Levels of UVB

The ultraviolet (UV) component of solar radiation is the driving force of life on earth, but it can cause photoaging and skin cancer. In this study, we investigated the effects of the glucosamine-derivative 2-(N-Acetyl)-L-phenylalanylamido-2-deoxy-β-D-glucose (NAPA) on human primary fibroblasts (FBs) stimulated in vitro with environmental levels of UVB radiation. FBs were irradiated with 0.04 J cm^-2 UVB dose, which resulted a mild dosage as shown by the cell viability and ROS production measurement. This environmental UVB dose induced activation of MAP kinase ERK 1/2, the stimulation of c-fos and at lower extent of c-jun, and in turn AP-1-dependent up-regulation of pro-inflammatory factors IL-6 and IL-8 and suppression of collagen type I expression. On the contrary, 0.04 J cm^-2 UVB dose was not able to stimulate metalloprotease production. NAPA treatment was able to suppress the up-regulation of IL-6 and IL-8 via the inhibition of MAP kinase ERK phosphorylation and the following AP-1 activation, and was able to attenuate the collagen type I down-regulation induced by the UVBs. Taken together, our results show that NAPA, considering its dual action on suppression of inflammation and stimulation of collagen type I production, represents an interesting candidate as a new photoprotective and photorepairing agents.

Protective Effects of Unsaponifiable Matter from Perilla Seed Meal on UVB-induced Damages and the Underlying Mechanisms in Human Skin Fibroblasts

Unsaponifiable matter (USM) from perilla seed meal contains numerous phytochemicals, including tocopherols, phytosterols, squalene, and policosanols, that exhibit antioxidant and health-promoting properties. In this study, the protective effects of USM on UVB-induced skin aging were investigated in Hs68 cells. UVB irradiation decreased cell viability by 26% compared to the control. However, USM blocked UVB-induced cytotoxicity. Moreover, USM treatment significantly decreased the UVB-induced production of reactive oxygen species and attenuated the UVB-induced production and mRNA expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) by inhibiting the phosphorylation of mitogen-activated protein kinases and activator protein 1 (AP-1). Furthermore, UVB exposure led to a 49.4% reduction in collagen synthesis. However, USM treatment restored collagen synthesis through upregulation of the transforming growth factor beta (TGF-β)/Smad2/3 pathways. These data indicate that USM regulates the production of MMPs and collagen by modulation of the TGF-β/Smad pathway and AP-1 activity, suggesting that USM may be a useful anti-photoaging ingredient.

Protection of UVB-Induced Photoaging by Fuzhuan-Brick Tea Aqueous Extract via MAPKs/Nrf2-Mediated Down-Regulation of MMP-1

Ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation is viewed as the principal inducer of skin photo-aging, associated with acceleration of collagen degradation and upregulation of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). The ethnic groups of southern/western China use Fuzhuan brick-tea (FBT) as a beverage and as a nutritional supplement. In this study, we scrutinized the antagonistic effects of aqueous extract of Fuzhuan-brick tea (FBTA) on skin photo-aging in UVB-exposed human keratinocyte (HaCaT) cells. FBTA exhibited strong antioxidant activity and quenched UVB-induced generation of cellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) without showing any toxicity. FBTA was capable of combating oxidative stress by augmenting messenger RNA (mRNA) and protein levels of both phase I and phase II detoxifying enzymes, especially heme oxygenase 1 (HO-1), by upregulating the nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2)-mediated pathway in HaCaT cells via the phosphorylation of p38 and extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK). FBTA also downregulated the expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) while upregulating type I procollagen by modulating Nrf2 signaling in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells. Collectively, our results show that FBTA might be useful as a functional food while being a good candidate in the development of cosmetic products and medicines for the remedy of UVB-induced skin photo-aging.

Anti-ageing skin effects of Korean bamboo salt on SKH1 hairless mice

Bamboo salt is generated by baking bamboo and sea salt and is used as a traditional food or medicine. The aim of this study was to investigate the anti-ageing skin effects of Korean bamboo salt and to compare the antioxidant, anti-ageing and anti-inflammatory effects of various salts, including purified salt, solar salt, bath solar salt, Masada solar salt, 1-time baked bamboo salt (1× bamboo salt), and 9-times baked bamboo salt (9× bamboo salt). Based on the content of mineral elements, pH, OH groups and redox potential amperometric analysis, the 9× bamboo salt showed the most antioxidant components and characteristics compared to the other salts. The in vitro results showed that the 9× bamboo salt could inhibit oxidative damage by hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂) treatment in HaCaT keratinocytes, and its effect was better than that of the other salts. In an in vivo experiment, SHK-1 hairless mice were treated with UV (ultraviolet) radiation to induce ageing. The epidermal thickness and epidermal structures were then assessed by phenotypic and histological analyses. The 0.2% 9× bamboo salt- and 1× bamboo salt-treated mice had a thinner epidermis than the control mice, and the sebaceous glands were almost intact with a regular arrangement that was similar to those in the normal group. Compared with the UV-treated group (control group) and other salt-treated groups, the 9× bamboo salt- and 1× bamboo salt-treated groups had higher dermal collagen and elastic fibre content. Fewer mast cells were observed in the 9× bamboo salt- and 1× bamboo salt-treated groups than in the control group. The activities of the skin antioxidant-related enzymes superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase (CAT) in the 9× bamboo salt- and 1× bamboo salt-treated groups were higher than those in other groups and similar to those in the normal group, but lipid peroxide (LPO) activity and carbonylated protein levels showed the opposite trends. Furthermore, the 9× bamboo salt- and 1× bamboo salt-treated groups had protein contents similar to those of the normal group. In addition, the 9× bamboo salt and 1× bamboo salt effectively down-regulated the expression of matrix metalloproteinase-2 (MMP-2) and matrix metalloproteinase-9 (MMP-9) and up-regulated the expression of tissue inhibitor expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (TIMP-1), matrix metalloproteinase-2 (TIMP-2), SOD and CAT compared to the other salts at a concentration of 0.2% (p < 0.05). These results suggest that at appropriate concentrations, bamboo salt could prevent skin ageing induced by ultraviolet radiation b (UVB) photodamage.