Anti-aging products and cosmeceuticals

Nanotechnology-Based Approaches for Cosmeceutical and Skin Care: A Systematic Review

Cosmeceuticals have gained great importance and are among the top-selling products used for skin care. Because of changing lifestyles, climate, and increasing pollution, cosmeceuticals are utilized by every individual, thereby making cosmeceuticals a fruitful field for research and the economy. Cosmeceuticals provide incredibly pleasing aesthetic results by fusing the qualities of both cosmetics and medicinal substances. Cosmeceuticals are primarily utilized to improve the appearance of skin by making it smoother, moisturized, and wrinkle-free, in addition to treating dermatological conditions, including photoaging, burns, dandruff, acne, eczema, and erythema. Nanocosmeceuticals are cosmetic products that combine therapeutic effects utilizing nanotechnology, allowing for more precise and effective target-specific delivery of active ingredients, and improving bioavailability.

Management patterns for skin aging among Saudi dermatologists: A questionnaire-based study

Background:

Skin aging is a complicated process affected by intrinsic, chronological, and extrinsic, environmental, determinants, and it is affected, to a large extent, by exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR). The present study aims to assess the antiaging treatment strategies in a real-world setting in Saudi Arabia.

Materials and Methods:

We conducted an online cross-sectional survey that was conducted from May 2020 to October 2020, involving all eligible dermatologists working at different academic, governmental, and private sectors in Saudi Arabia.

Results:

A total of 200 dermatologists were included in this study, of them, 33% were aged between 24–35 years. 28.5%, 25.5%, 24.5%, and 21.5% of the participants had 7–10, 4–6, >10, and 0–3 years of practice, respectively. Generally, 80 (40%) of the dermatologists reported that 10–20% of their patients consulting for antiaging, while 50 (25%) reported that 41–60% of their patients consulted for antiaging treatment. Cream products were preferred by 105 (52.5%) of the users. In general, 158 (79%) prescribe growth factors Post-procedures, while 29 (14.5), 24 (12%), and 22 (11%) prescribe them for under-eye dark circles, acne scars, and aging skin, respectively. 124 (62%) prefer to use it in combination with retinoids.

Conclusion:

The results of this survey indicate the fact that female patients and the age group 31-40 years old are more likely to seek skincare and antiaging therapy. Most dermatologists prescribed growth factors together with retinoids and only a small proportion of them used growth factors are antiaging modalities.

Management of aging skin: A questionnaire-based study among Indian dermatologists

INTRODUCTION

With increased life expectancy, the desire to look younger has increased. Hence, many patients approach dermatologists for antiaging treatment. However, data regarding management of skin aging in India are scarce.

AIMS

To understand management patterns for skin aging among dermatologists in India.

METHODS

Overall, 147 Indian dermatologists were administered a questionnaire-based survey about patient characteristics, signs of skin aging, treatment options, and cost.

RESULTS

Among all the patients coming for dermatologists' consultation, 10%-40% were for antiaging treatment. About 70% dermatologists opined that majority of patients aged 30-40 years consulted for antiaging treatment, and the male to female ratio was 3:7. Approximately 46% of dermatologists felt that antiaging treatment should be initiated by the age of 30. Common signs of aging were wrinkles, pigmentation, dull skin or complexion, and dry skin. Based on patient's age and sex, dermatologists prescribed a combination of 2-4 products, which included antioxidants, retinoids, growth factors, and moisturizers. Improvement was assessed by photographic and clinical evaluation, and by patients' satisfaction (55%). Effect of the antiaging products was evident within 4-6 months. Earliest improvement was noted in dry skin and dull complexion. Average extent of improvement noted by 6 months was approximately 20%-30%. The average monthly expenditure on antiaging treatments was 2000-4000 INR.

CONCLUSION

Both men and women seek clinical treatment for skin aging in India. Dermatologists prescribe a combination of 2-4 products, including antioxidants, retinoids, growth factors, and moisturizers. Available antiaging therapies show an average improvement of up to 30% by 6 months.

Role of Nanotechnology in Cosmeceuticals: A Review of Recent Advances

Nanotechnology manifests the progression in the arena of research and development, by increasing the efficacy of the product through delivery of innovative solutions. To overcome certain drawbacks associated with the traditional products, application of nanotechnology is escalating in the area of cosmeceuticals. Cosmeceuticals are regarded as the fastest growing segment of the personal care industry and the use has risen drastically over the years. Nanocosmeceuticals used for skin, hair, nail, and lip care, for conditions like wrinkles, photoaging, hyperpigmentation, dandruff, and hair damage, have come into widespread use. Novel nanocarriers like liposomes, niosomes, nanoemulsions, microemulsion, solid lipid nanoparticles, nanostructured lipid carrier, and nanospheres have replaced the usage of conventional delivery system. These novel nanocarriers have advantages of enhanced skin penetration, controlled and sustained drug release, higher stability, site specific targeting, and high entrapment efficiency. However, nanotoxicological researches have indicated concern regarding the impact of increased use of nanoparticles in cosmeceuticals as there are possibilities of nanoparticles to penetrate through skin and cause health hazards. This review on nanotechnology used in cosmeceuticals highlights the various novel carriers used for the delivery of cosmeceuticals, their positive and negative aspects, marketed formulations, toxicity, and regulations of nanocosmeceuticals.

Moisturizers: The Slippery Road

Moisturizers are an important part of a dermatologist's armamentarium although little is written and well, a less is truly known about them. There is a cornucopia of projected skin products in the market whose real scientific role is not proven. These products although at times are regarded as mere cosmetics but have a well-known role in many skin disorders. Adequate knowledge about their mechanism of action, dosage, usage, and adverse effects is must for a dermatologist in this era. This article aims to bring forth the ever hidden facts of the much-hyped moisturizers. It is probably the first of its kind covering all aspects of moisturizers ranging from basic science to clinical usage, a subject that receives a short shrift in the current dermatological text.

Are plants used for skin care in South Africa fully explored?

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

South Africa is an important focal point of botanical diversity, and although many plant species have been used since ancient times in ethnomedicine, only a few species have hitherto been fully investigated scientifically. A large proportion of the South African population use traditional medicines for their physical and psychological health needs. Many medicinal plants have recently gained popularity as ingredient in cosmetic formulations based on their ethnomedicinal values and many cosmetic products sold in stores are of natural origin. The present review discusses the ethnopharmacological values, pharmacological and toxicological evidence of 117 plant species grown in South Africa, which are used traditionally for skin care purposes. Special focus was on their traditional use for many skin disorders in order to identify their therapeutic potential, the state of ethnopharmacological knowledge and special emphasis has been on areas which require further research.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The information regarding all 117 plant species mentioned was extracted from Sci-Finder, Science direct, Medline and Google Scholar. All the available relevant data for medicinal plants was collated from literature review articles from the 19th century to early 2013.

RESULTS

The extracts from different parts of plants exhibited significant pharmacological properties, proving significant skin care potentials. Special emphasis was on those plant species which still need further exploration and these have been documented separately.

CONCLUSIONS

Despite the immense use of plants in ethnomedicine for skin care, limited research has been done on the activity of the crude extracts and very little on the active constituents. Consequently, almost 35 out of the 117 species are totally unexplored in the area of skin care. This investigation would be of interest to a broad readership including those researchers working in this field. The plant species namely: Greyia flanaganii, Sideroxylon inerme, Sclerocarya birrea, Calodendrum capense, Hyaenanche globosa, Harpephyllum caffrum, Ximenia americana, Leucosidea sericea Artemisia afra, and six Aloe species have been scientifically validated by our research group for skin hyperpigmentation problems.

Topical application of retinyl palmitate-loaded nanotechnology-based drug delivery systems for the treatment of skin aging

The objective of this study was to perform a structural characterization and evaluate the in vitro safety profile and in vitro antioxidant activity of liquid crystalline systems (LCS) with and without retinyl palmitate (RP). LCS containing polyether functional siloxane (PFS) as a surfactant, silicon glycol copolymer (SGC) as oil phase, and water in the ratios 30 : 25 : 45 and 40 : 50 : 10 with (OLS_v = RP-loaded opaque liquid system and TLS_v = RP-loaded transparent liquid system, respectively) and without (OLS and TLS, respectively) RP were studied. Samples were characterized using polarized light microscopy (PLM) and rheology analysis. In vitro safety profile was evaluated using red cell hemolysis and in vitro cytotoxicity assays. In vitro antioxidant activity was performed by the DPPH method. PLM analysis showed the presence of lamellar LCS just to TLS. Regardless of the presence of RP, the rheological studies showed the pseudoplastic behavior of the formulations. The results showed that the incorporation of RP in LCS improved the safety profile of the drug. In vitro antioxidant activity suggests that LCS presented a higher capacity to maintain the antioxidant activity of RP. PFS-based systems may be a promising platform for RP topical application for the treatment of skin aging.

Tannase-converted green tea catechins and their anti-wrinkle activity in humans

BACKGROUND

This study was performed to investigate the anti-wrinkle effects of topical applications of green tea extract with high antioxidant activity by tannase treatment. Increases in gallic acid (GA), (-)-epigallocatechin (EGC), and (-)-epicatechin (EC) were observed in the green tea extract after tannase treatment.

OBJECTIVES

This study was performed to investigate the anti-wrinkle effects of topical applications of green tea extract exhibiting high antioxidant activity after tannase treatment.

METHODS

Subjects, randomly divided into two groups, received the application of either tannase-converted green tea extract (TGE) or normal green tea extract (NGE) on their crow's feet for 8 weeks. The anti-wrinkle effects were evaluated with two methods: (i) self-assessment; and (ii) average roughness of skin surface (R(a), R(z), and R(t) value) using skin replica and Skin-Visiometer SV 600.

RESULTS

The scavenging abilities of TGE against radicals were significantly higher compared to NGE. The evaluation of skin wrinkle index values after 8 weeks of treatment showed that reductions of R(a), R(z), and R(t) values in the TGE group were significantly greater than in the NGE group, which indicated that tannase treatment improved the anti-wrinkle effects of green tea extract. According to the overall ratings for wrinkle treatment by applying the formulations, most of the TGE group (63.60%) reported marked or moderate improvement in wrinkles compared with only 36.30% of the NGE group.

CONCLUSION

Tannase treatment can improve the antioxidant activity of green tea extract, conferring anti-wrinkle activities. These results suggest that TGE may have beneficial properties as an anti-wrinkle agent.

Marine-derived nutrient improves epidermal and dermal structure and prolongs the life span of reconstructed human skin equivalents

INTRODUCTION

Imedeen™ is a cosmeceutical that provides nutrients to the skin. One of its active ingredients is the Marine Complex™ (MC).

AIM

The aim of this study was to evaluate whether MC affects skin morphogenesis differently in female and male human skin equivalents (HSEs).

METHODS

Human skin equivalents were established with cells obtained from female or male donors between 30 and 45 years of age and cultured for seven or 11 weeks in the presence or absence of MC. Using immunohistochemistry, we examined early differentiation by keratin 10 expression, (hyper)proliferation by keratin 17 and Ki67, and basement membrane composition by laminin 332 and collagen type VII. In addition, the expression of collagen type I and the secretion of pro-collagen I were measured.

RESULTS

Marine Complex strongly increased the number of Ki67-positive epidermal cells in female HSEs. In the dermis, MC significantly stimulated the amount of secreted pro-collagen I and increased the deposition of laminin 332 and collagen type VII. Furthermore, MC prolonged the viable phase of HSEs by slowing down its natural degradation. After 11 weeks of culturing, the MC-treated HSEs showed higher numbers of viable epidermal cell layers and a thicker dermal extracellular matrix compared with controls. In contrast, these effects were less pronounced in male HSEs.

CONCLUSION

The MC nutrient positively stimulated overall HSE tissue formation and prolonged the longevity of both female and male HSEs. The ability of MC to stimulate the deposition of basement membrane and dermal components can be used to combat 2 human skin aging in vivo.

Hormesis-based anti-aging products: a case study of a novel cosmetic

Application of hormesis in aging research and interventions is becoming increasingly attractive and successful. The reason for this is the realization that mild stress-induced activation of one or more stress response (SR) pathways, and its consequent stimulation of repair mechanisms, is effective in reducing the age-related accumulation of molecular damage. For example, repeated heat stress-induced synthesis of heat shock proteins has been shown to have a variety of anti-aging effects on growth and other cellular and biochemical characteristics of normal human skin fibroblasts, keratinocytes and endothelial cells undergoing aging in vitro. Therefore, searching for potential hormetins - conditions and compounds eliciting SR-mediated hormesis - is drawing attention of not only the researchers but also the industry involved in developing healthcare products, including nutriceuticals, functional foods and cosmeceuticals. Here we present the example of a skin care cosmetic as one of the first successful product developments incorporating the ideas of hormesis. This was based on the studies to analyse the molecular effects of active ingredients extracted from the roots of the Chinese herb Sanchi (Panax notoginseng) on gene expression at the level of mRNAs and proteins in human skin cells. The results showed that the ginsenosides extracted from Sanchi induced the transcription of stress genes and increased the synthesis of stress proteins, especially the heat shock protein HSP1A1 or Hsp70, in normal human keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts. Furthermore, this extract also has significant positive effects against facial wrinkles and other symptoms of facial skin aging as tested clinically, which may be due to its hormetic mode of action by stress-induced synthesis of chaperones involved in protein repair and removal of abnormal proteins. Acceptance of such a hormesis-based product by the wider public could be instrumental in the social recognition of the concept of hormesis as the beneficial effects of mild stress of choice, and will encourage the development of novel health care products with physical, nutritional and mental hormetins.

A novel anti-ageing mechanism for retinol: induction of dermal elastin synthesis and elastin fibre formation

Dermal elastic fibres are extracellular matrix protein complexes produced by fibroblasts and involved in skin elasticity. Elastin fibres decrease with age as a result of reduced synthesis and increased degradation, resulting in skin sagging and reduced skin elasticity. In this study, we show that retinol (ROL), known to enhance dermal collagen production, is also enhancing elastin fibre formation. ROL induced elastin gene expression and elastin fibre formation in cultured human dermal fibroblasts. Topical treatment of cultured human skin explants with a low dose (0.04%) of ROL increased mRNA and protein levels of tropoelastin and of fibrillin-1, an elastin accessory protein, as documented by QPCR and immunohistochemistry staining. Luna staining confirmed the increased elastin fibre network in the ROL-treated skin explants, as compared with untreated controls. These data demonstrate that ROL exerts its anti-ageing benefits not only via enhanced epidermal proliferation and increased collagen production, but also through an increase in elastin production and assembly.

Microencapsulation of rosmarinic acid using polycaprolactone and various surfactants

Rosmarinic acid (RA) has a number of interesting biological activities, e.g. anti-viral, anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant. The antioxidant activity of RA is stronger than that of vitamin E. Despite its strong antioxidant activity, it was limited to use in cosmetics because of the low water solubility, discolouration and chemical instability. The purpose of this study was to prepare RA-loaded polycaprolactone (PCL) microspheres using emulsion solvent evaporation method and characterize them with different surfactants used in the formation process. Finally, long-term stability of RA was evaluated in the cosmetic formulation. As a result, PCL microspheres were found to be spherical in shape, with zwitterionic surfactant-PCL particles being the smallest size distribution and highest entrapment efficiency of RA. Emulsions containing RA-loaded PCL microspheres showed a better long-term stability of the RA compared with those containing only RA. These results suggest that RA may be stably and efficiently encapsulated into polycaprolactone microspheres.

Randomised, placebo-controlled, double-blind, split-face study on the clinical efficacy of Tricutan on skin firmness

Tricutan is a combination product of herbal extracts traditionally used for treatment of skin conditions, together with dimethylaminoethanol. The effectiveness of Tricutan in improving skin firmness and elasticity in photoaged facial skin was examined in a randomised, placebo-controlled, double-blind, split-face study in 28 women, 34-67 years old. Treatment with Tricutan and placebo was given for 4 weeks. Skin firmness and elasticity was evaluated using the speed of propagation of ultrasound shear waves in the skin as end point (Reviscometer RVM 600). The study was completed by 25 women. The Tricutan treatment resulted in a significantly reduced propagation speed indicating increased firmness. There was no immediate effect by Tricutan application on propagation speed. At self evaluation the women evaluated the treatment effect of Tricutan to be significantly better than the treatment effect of placebo. The clinical evaluation also showed Tricutan to give a significantly better treatment result than placebo. Tolerance to Tricutan was generally good. However, three women did not complete the study because of mild irritative contact dermatitis. The results show that Tricutan can increase skin firmness both objectively and subjectively. Further studies are warranted, especially to investigate if Tricutan can delay the need for surgical face-lift procedures.

Supplementation with a complex of active nutrients improved dermal and epidermal characteristics in skin equivalents generated from fibroblasts from young or aged donors

Cultured skin equivalent (SE, Mimeskin) was generated by co-culturing skin fibroblasts and keratinocytes on a collagen-glycosaminoglycan-chitosan dermal substrate. In order to examine donor age effect, fibroblasts from 19- (young) or 49- (aged) year-old females were used. Culture medium was supplemented with nutrients complex containing soy extract, tomato extract, grape seed extract, white tea extract, sodium ascorbate, tocopherol acetate, zinc gluconate and BioMarine complex. Epidermal and dermal structure and composition were examined after 42 and 60 days of culture. In untreated samples, SE generated from young fibroblasts was superior to SE from aged fibroblasts in all characteristics. Those include number and regularity of keratinocyte layers, number of keratinocytes expressing proliferation marker Ki67, content of collagen type I, fibrillin-1, elastin, and SE lifespan. Effects of nutritional supplementation were observed in SE from both young and aged fibroblasts, however, those effects were more pronounced in SE from aged fibroblasts. In epidermis, the treatment increased number of keratinocyte layers and delayed epidermal senescence. The number of cells expressing Ki67 was nine folds higher than those of controls, and was similar to that of young cell SE. In dermis, the treatment increased mRNA synthesis of collagen I, fibrillin-1 and elastin. In conclusion, skin cell donor age had major important effect on formation of reconstructed SE. Imperfections in epidermal and dermal structure and composition as well as life span in SE from aged cells can be improved by supplementation with active nutrients.