How to Use Oral and Topical Cosmeceuticals to Prevent and Treat Skin Aging

Halobacteria Formula Improvement of Skin Care-A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Study

BACKGROUND

Halobacteria trueperi, an extremophilic microorganism thriving in high-salt environments, produces extracellular polysaccharides with potential anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties. However, its clinical efficacy in skin improvement remains unclear. This study focuses on H. trueperi TCI66207, isolated from the Pacific Ocean at a depth of 662 m near Hualien, and its potential to enhance skin parameters, aiming to develop a novel functional formulation for pharmaceutical and cosmetic use.

AIMS

This sudy aims to evaluate the clinical efficacy of H. trueperi TCI66207 on various skin parameters and its potential for developing new functional cosmetic formulations.

PATIENTS/METHODS

A total of 40 subjects were recruited and randomly divided into two groups: the test group applied a serum containing H. trueperi TCI66207, while the placebo group used a basic serum. Subjects were instructed to apply the serum twice daily for 4 weeks. Skin parameters, including moisture, brightness, elasticity, pigmentation (spots and UV spots), texture, wrinkles, pores, and collagen density, were assessed before and after the 4-week application period.

RESULTS

After 4 weeks of using the H. trueperi TCI66207 serum, significant improvements were observed in all measured skin parameters compared to baseline, with notable enhancements in moisture, brightness, elasticity, texture, and collagen density, along with reductions in wrinkles, spots, and pore size.

CONCLUSIONS

Halobacteria trueperi TCI66207 serum demonstrates a clear ability to improve skin conditions and delay signs of aging, making it a promising candidate for the development of new cosmetic formulations with potent anti-aging and skin-rejuvenating properties.

Changes in human skin composition due to intrinsic aging: a histologic and morphometric study

Skin represents the main barrier against the external environment, but also plays a role in human relations, as one of the prime determinants of beauty, resulting in a high consumer demand for skincare-related pharmaceutical products. Given the importance of skin aging in both medical and social spheres, the present research aims to characterize microscopic changes in human skin composition due to intrinsic aging (as opposed to aging influenced by external factors) via histological analysis of a photoprotected body region. Samples from 25 autopsies were taken from the periumbilical area and classified into four age groups: group 1 (0-12 years), group 2 (13-25 years), group 3 (26-54 years), and group 4 (≥ 55 years). Different traditional histological (hematoxylin-eosin, Masson's trichrome, orcein, toluidine, Alcian blue, and Feulgen reaction) and immunohistochemical (CK20, CD1a, Ki67, and CD31) stains were performed. A total of 1879 images photographed with a Leica DM3000 optical microscope were morphometrically analyzed using Image ProPlus 7.0 for further statistical analysis with GraphPad 9.0. Our results showed a reduction in epidermis thickness, interdigitation and mitotic indexes, while melanocyte count was raised. Papillary but not reticular dermis showed increased thickness with aging. Specifically, in the papillary layer mast cells and glycosaminoglycans were expanded, whereas the reticular dermis displayed a diminution in glycosaminoglycans and elastic fibers. Moreover, total cellularity and vascularization of both dermises were diminished with aging. This morphometric analysis of photoprotected areas reveals that intrinsic aging significantly influences human skin composition. This study paves the way for further research into the molecular basis underpinning these alterations, and into potential antiaging strategies.

Treatment of menopausal skin - A narrative review of existing treatments, controversies, and future perspectives

Menopause is a state of estrogen deficiency that affects numerous estrogen-dependent tissues in the female body. Skin is one of the most affected organs. Many consider menopausal skin changes to be merely an aesthetic problem; however, they can significantly affect women's quality of life. Currently, there are no approved effective treatments to prevent or alleviate skin changes associated with estrogen deficiency. Standard systemic hormone replacement therapy used to treat menopausal symptoms may be effective to some degree for skin treatment. In addition, compounded bioidentical hormone replacement therapy, selective estrogen receptor modulators, and phytoestrogens could also be used for skin treatment, although this is only hypothetical due to lack of data. Many questions therefore remain unanswered. On the other hand, topical, low-dose estrogen that would act only on the skin without systemic effects could be a possible option, as could be skin-only acting topical phytoestrogens. Such topical products without systemic effects could play a role in the treatment of menopausal skin. However, they are not currently approved because there is insufficient data on their safety and efficacy. A healthy lifestyle could have a positive effect on the menopausal skin. In this review, we provide an overview of the characteristics of menopausal skin, an outlook on the future treatment of menopausal skin with estrogens and other approaches, and the associated controversies and speculations. Overall, the importance of menopausal skin changes should not be neglected, and high-quality research is needed to gain new insights into the treatment of menopausal skin.

Clinical evidence of the efficacy and safety of a new multi-peptide anti-aging topical eye serum

BACKGROUND

Skin aging is a complex multifactorial progressive process. With age, intrinsic and extrinsic factors cause the loss of skin elasticity, with the formation of wrinkles, resulting in skin sagging through various pathways. A combination of multiple bioactive peptides could be used as a treatment for skin wrinkles and sagging.

OBJECTIVES

This study aimed to evaluate the cosmetic efficacy of a multi-peptide eye serum as a daily skin-care product for improving the periocular skin of women within the ages of 20-45 years.

METHODS

The stratum corneum skin hydration and skin elasticity were assessed using a Corneometer CM825 and Skin Elastometer MPA580, respectively. The PRIMOS CR technique based on digital strip projection technology was used for skin image and wrinkle analysis around the "crow's feet" area. Self-assessment questionnaires were filled on Day 14 and 28 of product use.

RESULTS

This study included 32 subjects with an average age of 28.5 years. On Day 28, there was a significant decrease in the number, depth, and volume of wrinkles. Skin hydration, elasticity, and firmness increased continuously during the study period, consistent with typical anti-aging claims. A majority of the participants (75.00%) expressed overall satisfaction with their skin appearance after using the product. Most participants noted a visible skin improvement, with an increase in skin elasticity and smoothness, and confirmed the extensibility, applicability, and temperance of the product. No adverse reactions related to product use were observed.

CONCLUSIONS

The multi-peptide eye serum uses a multi-targeted mechanism against skin aging to improve the skin appearance, making it an ideal choice for daily skincare.

Plant Extract-Derived Carbon Dots as Cosmetic Ingredients

Plant extract-derived carbon dots (C-dots) have emerged as promising components for sustainability and natural inspiration to meet consumer demands. This review comprehensively explores the potential applications of C-dots derived from plant extracts in cosmetics. This paper discusses the synthesis methodologies for the generation of C-dots from plant precursors, including pyrolysis carbonization, chemical oxidation, hydrothermal, microwave-assisted, and ultrasonic methods. Plant extract-derived C-dots offer distinct advantages over conventional synthetic materials by taking advantage of the inherent properties of plants, such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and UV protective properties. These outstanding properties are critical for novel cosmetic applications such as for controlling skin aging, the treatment of inflammatory skin conditions, and sunscreen. In conclusion, plant extract-derived C-dots combine cutting-edge nanotechnology and sustainable cosmetic innovation, presenting an opportunity to revolutionize the industry by offering enhanced properties while embracing eco-friendly practices.

Recent advances in exosomal non-coding RNA-based therapeutic approaches for photoaging

BACKGROUND

Photoaging is a degenerative biological process that affects the quality of life. It is caused by environmental factors including ultraviolet radiation (UVR), deep skin burns, smoking, active oxygen, chemical substances, and trauma. Among them, UVR plays a vital role in the aging process.

AIM

With the continuous development of modern medicine, clinical researchers have investigated novel approaches to treat aging. In particular, mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs), non-coding RNAs are involved in various physiological processes have broad clinical application as they have the advantages of convenient samples, abundant sources, and avoidable ethical issues.

METHODS

This article reviews research progress on five types of stem cell, exosomes, non-coding RNA in the context of photoaging treatment: adipose-derived stem cell, human umbilical cord MSCs, epidermal progenitor cells, keratinocyte stem cells, and hair follicle stem cells (HFSCs). It also includes stem cell related exosomes and their non-coding RNA research.

RESULTS

The results have clinical guiding significance for prevention and control of the onset and development of photoaging. It is found that stem cells secrete cytokines, cell growth factors, non-coding RNA, exosomes and proteins to repair aging skin tissues and achieve skin rejuvenation. In particular, stem cell exosomes and non-coding RNA are found to have significant research potential, as they possess the benefits of their source cells without the disadvantages which include immune rejection and granuloma formation.

New Insights into the Dermocosmetic Potential of the Red Seaweed Gelidium corneum

This work addresses the potential of the red seaweed Gelidium corneum as a source of bioactive ingredients for skin health and wellness in response to the growing awareness regarding the significance of sustainable strategies in developing new nature-based dermocosmetic products. Hydroalcoholic extracts from the dried biomass were subjected to sequential liquid-liquid partitions, affording five different fractions (F1-F5). Their cosmetic potential was assessed through a set of in vitro assays concerning their antioxidant, photoprotective, and healing properties. Additionally, their cytotoxicity in HaCaT cells and their capacity to induce inflammation in RAW 264.7 cells were also evaluated. As a proof-of-concept, O/W emulsions were prepared, and emulsion stability was assessed by optical microscopy, droplet size analysis, centrifugation tests, and rheology analysis. Furthermore, in vivo tests were conducted with the final formulation to assess its antioxidant capacity. At subtoxic concentrations, the most lipophilic fraction has provided photoprotection against UV light-induced photooxidation in HaCaT cells. This was conducted together with the aqueous fraction, which also displayed healing capacities. Regarding the physical and stability assays, the best performance was achieved with the formulation containing 1% aqueous extract, which exhibited water retention and antioxidant properties in the in vivo assay. In summary, Gelidium corneum displayed itself as a potential source of bioactive ingredients with multitarget properties for dermatological use.

Microneedle-Assisted Topical Delivery of Idebenone-Loaded Bioadhesive Nanoparticles Protect against UV-Induced Skin Damage

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation can penetrate the basal layer of the skin and induce profound alterations in the underlying dermal tissues, including skin pigmentation, oxidative stress, photoaging, glycation, and skin cancer. Idebenone (IDB), an effective antioxidant that suppresses melanin biosynthesis and glycation, can protect the skin from UV-induced damage, accounting for its use in commercial anti-aging formulations. Ideally, IDB formulations should retain IDB inside the skin for a sufficient period, despite disturbances such as sweating or swimming. Herein, we present an IDB topical formulation based on Tris (tris(hydroxymethyl)-aminomethane)-modified bioadhesive nanoparticles (Tris-BNPs) and microneedle-assisted delivery. We found that Tris-BNPs loaded with IDB (IDB/Tris-BNPs) effectively reached the basal layer of the skin and were retained for at least 4 days with a slow and continuous drug release profile, unlike non-bioadhesive nanoparticles (NNPs) and bioadhesive nanoparticles (BNPs) of similar sizes (ranging from 120-142 nm) and zeta-potentials (above -20 mV), which experienced a significant reduction in concentration within 24 h. Notably, IDB/Tris-BNPs showed superior performance against UV-induced damage relative to IDB/NNPs and IDB/BNPs. This effect was demonstrated by lower levels of reactive oxygen species and advanced glycation end-products in skin tissues, as well as suppressed melanogenesis. Therefore, the proposed IDB delivery strategy provided long-term protective effects against UV-induced skin damage.

Antioxidants for improved skin appearance: Intracellular mechanism, challenges and future strategies

Recent advances in molecular and biochemical processes relevant to the skincare field have led to the development of novel ingredients based on antioxidants that can improve skin health and youthfulness. Considering the plethora of such antioxidants and the many implications for the skin's appearance, this review focuses on describing the critical aspects of antioxidants, including cosmetic functions, intracellular mechanisms and challenges. In particular, specialized substances are suggested for the treatment of each skin condition, such as skin ageing, skin dehydration and skin hyperpigmentation, which treatments can maximize effectiveness and avoid side effects during skin care processes. In addition, this review proposes advanced strategies that either already exists in the cosmetic market or should be developed to improve and optimize cosmetic' beneficial effects.

Achyrocline satureioides Hydroalcoholic Extract as a Hypoallergenic Antimicrobial Substitute of Natural Origin for Commonly Used Preservatives in Cosmetic Emulsions

Achyrocline satureioides is a South American herb used in traditional medicine to treat a wide range of ailments. The healing and antimicrobial effects of this plant have already been covered by many studies, which have confirmed its beneficial effects on human health. In this study, the antimicrobial effect of A. satureioides hydroalcoholic extract against Escherichia coli ATCC10536, Staphylococcus aureus ATCC25923, Staphylococcus epidermidis ATCC12228 and Lactobacillus acidophilus INCQS00076 was determined. The cytotoxicity of the extract was tested on human HaCaT keratinocytes showing very favourable effects on the proliferation and renewal of keratinocytes. According to the results of the HPLC and GC-MS analyses, the lyophilized extract contained only a minimal amount of fragrance allergens. The extract was then used in two cosmetic formulations, and one of them showed a significant synergistic interaction with other cosmetic components. We suggest the use of A.satureioides hydroalcoholic extract as a suitable antimicrobial component of natural origin for cosmetic preparations as a substitute for commonly used preservatives that can cause skin irritation and as a material with its own biological activity.

The Effectiveness of Injectable Hyaluronic Acid in the Improvement of the Facial Skin Quality: A Systematic Review

Background

Several studies have evaluated the role of various injectable formulations of hyaluronic acid (HA) in the improvement of the quality of facial skin. It is important to systematically summarize the available evidence in this regard.

Methods

Relevant databases were searched for clinical studies that evaluated the therapeutic role of any injectable formulation of HA in improving the quality of facial skin in adult humans until 31 December 2022. The available studies were critically analyzed and the data were extracted.

Results

A total of 2996 articles were screened and 13 studies were finally included. Eight studies evaluated the effect of various formulations of HA alone, while five evaluated the effect of various formulations of HA along with other active ingredients (cocktails) on the quality of facial skin. All types of HA formulations cause a significant improvement in facial skin quality, in terms of hydration, firmness, skin-tiring effect/fatigue, brightness, texture, radiance, and elasticity. The effect of HA monotherapy was more pronounced than that of the cocktail ingredients. HA treatment was quite safe and the patient satisfaction level was high.

Conclusion

The clinical evidence on the use of injectable HA alone in the improvement of the quality of facial skin, in terms of hydration, firmness, skin-tiring effect/fatigue, brightness, texture, radiance, and elasticity, is quite promising. Large randomized controlled trials are required in this regard.

Challenges and strategies for collagen delivery for tissue regeneration

Background: Aged skin is characterized by wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and roughness. Collagen is the most abundant protein in our body and it’s responsible for skin health and it’s mostly influenced by factors that accelerated aging such as UV. Objective: This study aimed to identify the potential use of collagen as skin supplementation and the challenges and strategies for its delivery. Methods: The articles were first searched through the existing database with the keyword of “collagen antiaging”. The 585 articles were then screened by year of publication (2012-2022) resulted in 475 articles. The articles were then selected based on the delivery of collagen either orally or topically, resulted in 12 articles for further analysis. Results: Collagen has important roles in skin physiology by involving some mechanisms through inhibition of Mitogen-Activated Protein Kinase, induction of Tissue Growth Factor β (TGF-β), and inhibition of Nuclear Factor kappa beta (NF-κβ). The oral administration of collagen has an effective biological activity but requires large doses (up to 5 g daily). Meanwhile, the topical administration of collagen is limited by poor permeability due to high molecular weight (±300 kDa). Several strategies need to be carried out mainly by physical modification such as hydrolyzed collagen or entrapment of collagen using a suitable delivery system. Conclusions: Collagen could improve the skin properties, but further research should be conducted to increase its penetration either by physical modification or entrapment into suitable carrier.

Preparation of Cod Skin Collagen Peptides/Chitosan-Based Temperature-Sensitive Gel and Its Anti-Photoaging Effect in Skin

Background

Photoaging decreases quality of life and increases the risk of skin cancer, underscoring the urgent need to explore natural, high-efficacy, anti-skin photoaging (SP) active substances.

Methods

In this study, a gel (CS/CSCPs/β-GP gel) was prepared using chitosan (CS) and sodium β-glycerophosphate (β-GP) through crosslinking with small molecular CSCPs as the carried drug. We evaluated its structural characteristics and properties. The effect of CS/CSCPs/β-GP gel on the degree of ultraviolet (UV)-induced skin aging of mice was investigated through comparative analysis of skin damage, the integrity of collagen tissues and elastic fibers, levels of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and key inflammatory factors (tumor necrosis factor [TNF]-α and interleukin [IL]-1β, IL-6, and IL-10), and tissue expression of matrix metalloproteinase-3 (MMP-3) after repeated UV irradiation in a nude mice SP model.

Results

The results showed that CS/CSCPs/β-GP gel was successfully prepared and had the desired characteristics. Compared with CSCPs alone, the CS/CSCPs/β-GP gel more evidently improved typical photoaging characteristics on mouse dorsal skin. It also increased the moisture content, causing the skin to become glossy and elastic. Pathological skin analysis revealed that this peptide-carrying gel can effectively inhibit epidermal thickening, reduce tissue inflammatory infiltration, suppress collagen fiber degradation, increase the collagen content, alleviate structural elastic fiber damage, and significantly inhibit abnormal MMP-3 expression. In addition, biochemical analysis showed that the CS/CSCPs/β-GP gel can effectively inhibit the elevated expressions of ROS and key proinflammatory factors (TNF-α, IL-1β, IL-6) in photoaging skin tissues and promote expression of the anti-inflammatory factor IL-10.

Conclusion

SP can cause many clinical skin diseases, such as solar freckle-like nevus, solar keratosis, cutaneous melanoma, and squamous cell carcinoma. CSCPs are a high-efficacy anti-SP natural active substance and CS/CSCPs/β-GP gel can synergistically enhance the CSCPs' anti-SP effect. The mechanism is likely related to the inhibited activation of ROS/nuclear transcription factor-κB signaling and the expression of downstream inflammatory factors.

Photobiomodulation Reduces Periocular Wrinkle Volume by 30%: A Randomized Controlled Trial

Objective: This study aimed to evaluate red and amber light-emitting diode protocols for facial rejuvenation at the same light dose. Background: The demand for minimally invasive cosmetic procedures to address skin aging has grown throughout the world. In vitro red and amber photobiomodulation (PBM) has been shown to improve collagen synthesis. Meanwhile, red PBM has already been studied in clinical trials; however, a comparison of the use of different wavelengths at the same light dose to reduce periocular wrinkles has not yet been performed. Methods: This split-face, randomized clinical trial recruited 137 women (40-65 years old) presenting with skin phototypes II-IV and Glogau photoaging scale types II-IV. The individuals received 10 sessions for 4 weeks of red (660 nm) and amber (590 nm) PBM (3.8 J/cm²), one at each side of the face. The outcomes, measured before and after the treatments, were the periocular wrinkle volume measured by VisioFace^® RD equipment; hydration measured by the Corneometer CM 825; skin elasticity measured by the Cutometer Dual MPA 580; and quality of life determined by adapted versions of validated questionnaires [Melasma Quality of Life Scale-Brazilian Portuguese (MelasQoL-BP) and Skindex-29]. Results: There was a significant reduction in wrinkle volume after red (31.6%) and amber (29.9%) PBM. None of the treatments improved skin hydration and viscoelasticity. Both questionnaires showed improvements in participants' quality of life. Conclusions: PBM, both at red and amber wavelengths, is an effective tool for rejuvenation, producing a 30% wrinkle volume reduction. The technique has strong potential in patients with diabetes or those presenting with keloids, conditions for which highly inflammatory rejuvenating procedures are not indicated. Clinical trial registration number: REBEC-6YFCBM.

Benefits of topical hyaluronic acid for skin quality and signs of skin aging: From literature review to clinical evidence

Skin aging goes beyond a chronological process and also results from extrinsic factors referred to as the exposome. Hyaluronic acid (HA) is an important component of the extracellular matrix, with loss starting at 25 years old. While many studies of HA concern topical use, few literature reviews only address the use of topical HA in dermatology. This review describes the different characteristics of HA-containing cosmeceuticals, with a focus on skin aging and the impact of exposome factors on HA synthesis and degradation. A review was performed using the terms HA, hyaluronan, topical, dermatology, cosmetic, aging treatment, exposome, and cosmeceuticals. Results are also presented from a recent randomized controlled trial (RCT), which investigated the additional benefit of using a HA epidermic filler (HA-filler serum) combined with Botulinum toxin type A (BoNTA) to treat signs of skin aging. Subjects were randomized to two groups: HA-filler serum starting 24 h after the BoNTA injection then twice daily for 24 weeks, or the control group, which received BoNTA. HA is a key ingredient used in cosmeceuticals for its hydration/antiaging properties (hygroscopic, rheological, and viscoelastic). Several clinical studies indicate that HA is both well tolerated and effective, adjuvant to both post-surgical and facial rejuvenation procedures. In the RCT, one of few studies to combine BoNTA and HA with a 6-month follow-up, the HA-filler serum lengthened the duration of BoNTA's effect in reducing wrinkles. Numerous studies support HA-based cosmeceuticals as a noninvasive, effective solution for improving skin hydration and rejuvenation.

EVALUATION OF PLANT-BASED UV FILTERS POTENTIAL IN MODERN CONCEPT VIEW OF SKIN PHOTOPROTECTION

A therapeutic plants potential is based on the pharmacological effects due to their phytochemical profile. Today, scientific interest in botanicals is increasing as a result of recent research that looks at the prospect of using these raw materials for the cosmetic industry as a means to protect the skin from the harmful effects of UV rays.

The aim of the study was to evaluate a potential of plant-based UV-filters in modern concept view of skin photoprotection.

Materials and methods. A systematic literature search was carried out using the electronic information arrays PubMed, Scopus, Google Scholar, eLibrary. The search depth was 10 years (the period from 2010 to 2021). The search was carried out by the following keywords: antioxidants, cosmetics, photoprotection, chemical composition, pharmacological action.

Results. In the paper, modern principles of skin photoprotection based on the use of chemical or physical UV-filters are considered and scientifically substantiated A trend for the use of plant-based materials and their components in the formulation of photoprotectors was notified. That is associated with a wide activity spectrum, the absence of a xenobiotic effect, and a high bioavailability of organic plant compounds.

Conclusion. The data analysis from scientific publications demonstrated a potential photoprotective activity of plant-based biologically active substances due to antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-radical effects. The results of the study are a theoretical basis for a further comprehensive experimental study of plant objects in order to obtain a pool of evidence in the field of photoprotection in in vivo experiments.

Radiofrequency and skin rejuvenation: a systematic review

Increasingly, there is an attempt to minimize expression lines through esthetic procedures, and radiofrequency (RF) is one of the therapeutic modalities. This article aims to systematically review the literature on the different types of RF treatment in clinical trials and in variables related to the aging process. This systematic review included 21 articles that treated 354 people with different physical characteristics. The most used RF was the fractional followed by the non-ablative RF. There was a large discrepancy in relation to the types and parameters. A parameter that did not show so much divergence was the temperature, which was between 38°C and 44°C. The main temporary adverse reactions reported by the authors were as follows: discomfort, pain, erythema, hyperpigmentation, crusting, swelling, edema, and purple and acneic appearance of the skin. Finally, our study concluded that non-ablative and ablative RF was reported to rejuvenate and improve the features of skin in all skin types.

Explore the Multitarget Mechanism of Tetrahydrocurcumin preventing on UV-Induced Photoaging mouse skin

UV induced photoaging is the main external factor of skin aging. In this study, we tested the protective effects of tetrahydrocurcumin on UV-induced skin photoaging of KM mice and researched the multi-target mechanism through RNA sequencing technology. Mouse experiments show that tetrahydrocurcumin strongly changed in skin appearance, epidermal thickness, and wrinkle-related parameters in UV-irradiated mice. RNA-seq result show that we found 29 differentially expressed mRNA transcripts in UV mice relative to Ctrl rats (18 up-regulated and 11 down-regulated) and 7 significantly dysregulated mRNAs were obtained in the THC group compared to the UV group (1 up-regulated and 6 down-regulated), respectively. Spink7, Edn3, Stab2 may be the key target genes of tetrahydrocurcumin in preventing aging. Bioinformatics analysis shows that the response to muscle contraction and melanin biosynthetic GO term and Inflammation related pathway such as PPAR, MAPK would involve in effects of tetrahydrocurcumin. The results of this study indicated that tetrahydrocurcumin can improve the appearance through anti-inflammatory, improving extracellular matrix and inhibiting melanin production. It could be suggested as a protective measure in the prevention of UV-induced photoaging.

Managing Skin Ageing as a Modifiable Disorder—The Clinical Application of Nourella® Dual Approach Comprising a Nano-Encapsulated Retinoid, Retilex-A® and a Skin Proteoglycan Replacement Therapy, Vercilex®

Skin ageing is a progressive, but modifiable, multi-factorial disorder that involves all the skin’s tissues. Due to its wide range of physiological and psychosocial complications, skin ageing requires rigorous clinical attention. In this review, we aim to encourage clinicians to consider skin ageing as a disorder and suggest a novel, dual approach to its clinical treatment. Topical retinoids and per-oral proteoglycans are promising, non-invasive, therapeutic modalities. To overcome the low bioavailability of conventional free retinoids, Nourella® cream with Retilex-A® (Pharma Medico, Aarhus, Denmark) was developed using a proprietary nano-encapsulation technology. The nano-encapsulation is a sophisticated ‘permeation/penetration enhancer’ that optimises topical drug delivery by increasing the surface availability and net absorption ratio. Treatment adherence is also improved by minimising skin irritation. Interventional evidence suggests the greater efficacy of Retilex-A® in improving skin thickness and elasticity compared with conventional free forms. It is also reported that the rejuvenating efficacy of Retilex-A® and tretinoin are comparable. Another skin anti-ageing approach is proteoglycan replacement therapy (PRT) with Vercilex®. Vercilex® in Nourella® tablet form has the potential to ameliorate proteoglycan dysmetabolism in aged skin by activating skin cells and improving collagen/elastin turnover. Replicated clinical trials evidenced that PRT can significantly enhance the density, elasticity and thickness of both intrinsically aged and photoaged skin. Evidently, Vercilex® and Retilex-A® share a range of bioactivities that underlie their synergistic activity, as observed in a clinical trial. Dual therapy with Nourella® tablets and cream produced greater effects on skin characteristics than monotherapy with each of the two treatments. In conclusion, Nourella® cream and tablets are safe and effective treatments for skin ageing; however, combining the two in a ‘dual skin rejuvenation system’ significantly improves treatment outcomes.

Effect of a Topical Collagen Tripeptide on Antiaging and Inhibition of Glycation of the Skin: A Pilot Study

The glycation process has been recognized as one of the critical parameters that accelerate signs of skin aging, especially in skin exposed to environment factors, such as ultraviolet radiation. Although previous studies showed the anti-inflammatory and antiaging properties of the hydrolyzed collagen tripeptide (CTP), its exact mechanism is not fully understood. Therefore, in this study, we sought to investigate the effect of a topical CTP on facial skin. Our group designed a 4 week prospective, single-arm study of 22 Asian women who applied topical CTP. We observed significant improvements in skin wrinkles, elasticity, and density with a reduction in skin accumulation of advanced glycated end products (AGEs) at week 4 without any adverse effects. The in vitro study revealed a preventive effect of the topical CTP on the accumulation of AGEs, denatured collagen production, and reactive oxygen species in dermal fibroblasts. Moreover, treatment with the CTP decreased induction of matrix metalloproteinases while increasing the collagen 1 level. These results suggest that the application of a topical CTP might improve clinical aging phenotypes via the inhibition of glycation and oxidative stress, leading to a delay in cellular aging.

Nutrition and youthful skin

Nutrition and dietary supplements have been used to promote a youthful appearance for millennia. Despite high public demand for these products, evidence supporting their efficacy is limited and often inconsistent. We discuss the structural and functional changes that occur in the skin during the aging process. We also review evidence supporting the use of nutritional supplements commonly used to promote a youthful appearance, including essential fatty acids, coenzyme Q, collagen peptides, curcumin, polyphenols, flavonoids, probiotics, silymarin, and vitamins A, C, D, and E. We also consider the role of advanced glycosylated end products, antiinflammatory diets, and caloric restriction in delaying premature skin aging. Although evidence supporting the use of some dietary interventions is promising, further long-term studies in humans are required to fully understand their effects on the promotion of a youthful appearance.

Intense Pulsed Light on skin rejuvenation: a systematic review

Aged skin is characterized by appearance of wrinkles, vascular lesions, hyperpigmentation, lentignes, texture, rhytides, and pores. These changes occur under the influence of intrinsic and extrinsic factors, as hormone alterations and exposure to ultraviolet light (UV) irradiation, respectively. Skin changes associated with aging have been assuming an important role in nowadays and bring to affect the quality of life. Intense Pulsed Light (ILP) is a noncollimated, polychromatic, and noncoherent non-surgical cosmetic therapy to skin rejuvenation. This is the first systematic review evaluating ILP treatment on skin rejuvenation evaluated by digital photographs and self-reported treatment efficacy. A PRISMA compliant review includes a search of the databases Scopus and PubMed. Sixteen studies treating 637 participants (with Fitzpatrick skin types I to IV and age varying from 21 to 80 years) were included. Patients were treated a mean of 4.29 sessions (range 3-7). The most studies results showed the efficacy of IPL treatment in telangiectasia, wrinkles, pore, erythema, rhytids, texture, lentigines, hiperpigmentation, and photoaging score. Six studies showed IPL-positive effects in association with other treatment and seven studies showed superior effect of other treatment or association to IPL with other treatment related to IPL alone. Nine studies showed low methodological quality. In conclusion, ILP treatment is effective on skin rejuvenation. However, there is no consensus about the parameters and future studies are needed to sample size limitations, made RCTs with low risk of bias, and improve the methodological quality its. Trial registration: Prospero Systematic Review Registration ID: CRD42021237817.

Glycosaminoglycans: Sweet as Sugar Targets for Topical Skin Anti-Aging

Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) are long, linear polysaccharides comprised of repeating disaccharide units with pleiotropic biological functions, with the non-sulfated GAG hyaluronic acid (HA), and sulfated GAGs dermatan sulfate, chondroitin sulfate, heparan sulfate, keratan sulfate, and to a lesser extent heparin all being expressed in skin. Their ability to regulate keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation, inflammatory processes and extracellular matrix composition and quality demonstrates their critical role in regulating skin physiology. Similarly, the water-binding properties of GAGs and structural qualities, particularly for HA, are crucial for maintaining proper skin form and hydration. The biological importance of GAGs, as well as extensive evidence that their properties and functions are altered in both chronological and extrinsic skin aging, makes them highly promising targets to improve cosmetic skin quality. Within the present review, we examine the cutaneous biological activity of GAGs alongside the protein complexes they form called proteoglycans and summarize the age-related changes of these molecules in skin. We also examine current topical interventional approaches to modulate GAGs for improved skin quality such as direct exogenous administration of GAGs, with a particular interest in strategies targeted at potentiating GAG levels in skin through either attenuating GAG degradation or increasing GAG production.

Protective effects of fucoidan purified from Undaria pinnatifida against UV-irradiated skin photoaging

Background

Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation (UVB and UVA) is the most well-known extrinsic factor that induces skin aging. Fucoidan has been shown to possess antiphotoaging effects against UV irradiation and can be used as an ingredient in the pharmaceutical industry. The present study evaluated the photoprotective effect of fucoidan purified from Undaria pinnatifida (UPF) on UV-induced skin photoaging and explored its potential molecular mechanism.

Methods

To evaluate the effect of UPF on UV-induced skin aging, HaCaT cells and HFF-1 cells were pretreated with or without UPF and then exposed to UVB and UVA radiation, respectively, and the levels of cellular senescence, reactive oxygen species (ROS) production and mitochondrial dysfunction were evaluated. The mitochondrial ROS (mROS) was stained through MitoSOX, and the confocal microscope was used to capture the images. For further exploration of AMPK/SIRT-1/PGC-1α signaling, western blot was employed.

Results

The results demonstrated that pretreatment of HaCaT and HFF-1 cells with UPF ameliorated cellular senescence, ROS and mROS overproduction, and mitochondrial dysfunction caused by UV exposure. This research also revealed that UPF could activate the AMPK/SIRT-1/PGC-1α signaling pathway to promote mitochondrial biogenesis.

Conclusions

UPF can ameliorate UV-induced skin photoaging through inhibition of ROS production via the alleviation of mitochondrial dysfunction by regulating the SIRT-1/PGC-1α signaling pathway.

Advantages of Hyaluronic Acid and Its Combination with Other Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmeceuticals

This study proposes a review on hyaluronic acid (HA) known as hyaluronan or hyaluronate and its derivates and their application in cosmetic formulations. HA is a glycosaminoglycan constituted from two disaccharides (N-acetylglucosamine and D-glucuronic acid), isolated initially from the vitreous humour of the eye, and subsequently discovered in different tissues or fluids (especially in the articular cartilage and the synovial fluid). It is ubiquitous in vertebrates, including humans, and it is involved in diverse biological processes, such as cell differentiation, embryological development, inflammation, wound healing, etc. HA has many qualities that recommend it over other substances used in skin regeneration, with moisturizing and anti-ageing effects. HA molecular weight influences its penetration into the skin and its biological activity. Considering that, nowadays, hyaluronic acid has a wide use and a multitude of applications (in ophthalmology, arthrology, pneumology, rhinology, aesthetic medicine, oncology, nutrition, and cosmetics), the present study describes the main aspects related to its use in cosmetology. The biological effect of HA on the skin level and its potential adverse effects are discussed. Some available cosmetic products containing HA have been identified from the brand portfolio of most known manufacturers and their composition was evaluated. Further, additional biological effects due to the other active ingredients (plant extracts, vitamins, amino acids, peptides, proteins, saccharides, probiotics, etc.) are presented, as well as a description of their possible toxic effects.

Development and validation of a global photonumeric scale for evaluating skin quality of aged female facial skin

BACKGROUND

Skin quality plays an important role in overall attractiveness. However, so far, no visual grading scales have been published while their development seems to be an essential key step to provide validated grading scales for the evaluation of efficacy of minimally invasive procedures and cosmeceuticals aims on the improvement of skin quality, esthetic research, and clinical application.

OBJECTIVES

To develop and validate a visual five-point assessment scale for the evaluation of skin quality of female facial skin.

METHODS

The five-point photonumeric Scientific Assessment Scale of Skin Quality is based on six parameters. Fifty standardized photos were rated by 13 experts. This examination was carried out in two cycles with an interval of 4 weeks. The intraclass correlation coefficient contributes to the identification of the inter-rater and intrarater reliability.

RESULTS

Statistical analysis investigated six specific and two general parameters: The results of inter- and intrarater reliability for skin elasticity (ICC 0.816; ICC 0.883), wrinkles (ICC 0.840; 0.885), and age (ICC 0.885; 0.925) were almost perfect. The reliabilities for pigmentation (ICC 0.637; ICC 0.797), erythema (ICC 0.688; ICC 0.797), and overall skin quality (ICC 0.652; ICC 0.756) were substantial and for pore size moderate (ICC 0.405; ICC 0.584). Skin surface roughness (ICC 0.480; ICC 0.645) indicated a substantial intrarater reliability and a moderate interrater reliability. These data revealed good and excellent results.

CONCLUSIONS

The Scientific Assessment Scale of Skin Quality represents an innovative universal and reliable measurement instrument for a valid and reproducible evaluation of six parameters of aged female facial skin quality.

Applicability of bacterial cellulose in cosmetics - bibliometric review

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Bacterial cellulose is biocompatible, hydrophilic, biodegradable being a biopolymer.

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In cosmetics it is used as emulsion stabilizer and as asset delivery masks and skin treatments.

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2019 presents the largest number of publications in the area.

The search for innovation and new approaches to mitigate environmental impact encourages the cosmetic industry to explore new methodologies and materials. Bacterial cellulose has been the focus of research because it has high biocompatibility, skin adhesion, and water retention, in addition to being a sustainable alternative material. This review paper explored the perspectives emerging in the scientific literature on the use of bacterial cellulose in cosmetics. This bibliometric review was performed using four databases along with three software programs to obtain a more complete analysis. The search identified 18 articles related to the topic. Because the highest number of articles was published in the year 2019, it was estimated that more publications will appear in the near future. Studies have demonstrated the potential for the use of bacterial cellulose in face masks for the delivery of active compounds and increased skin hydration, and it can also act as an emulsion stabilizer.

Biomarkers, oxidative stress and autophagy in skin aging

Aging is a major cause of many degenerative diseases. The most intuitive consequence of aging is mainly manifested on the skin, resulting in cumulative changes in skin structure, function and appearance, such as increased wrinkles, laxity, elastosis, telangiectasia, and aberrant pigmentation of the skin. Unlike other organs of the human body, skin is not only inevitably affected by the intrinsic aging process, but also affected by various extrinsic environmental factors to accelerate aging, especially ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Skin aging is a highly complex and not fully understood process, and the lack of universal biomarkers for the definitive detection and evaluation of aging is also a major research challenge. Oxidative stress induced by the accumulation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) can lead to lipid, protein, nucleic acid and organelle damage, thus leading to the occurrence of cellular senescence, which is one of the core mechanisms mediating skin aging. Autophagy can maintain cellular homeostasis when faced with different stress conditions and is one of the survival mechanisms of cell resistance to intrinsic and extrinsic stress. Autophagy and aging have many features in common and may be associated with skin aging mediated by different factors. Here, we summarize the changes and biomarkers of skin aging, and discuss the effects of oxidative stress and autophagy on skin aging.

The Impact of Herbal Products in the Prevention, Regeneration and Delay of Skin Aging

Skin aging is a complex process induced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors and causes alterations to the structural and functional aspects of the skin. Skin aging affects patients physically and physiologically. Understanding the process of skin aging can provide new knowledge on how to attenuate or reduce skin disorder symptoms. Herbs have been used for ages to prevent and treat skin aging, yet there are growing interests by researchers in this field globally. Various strategies have been developed for improving the quality and effectivity of herbal skin care products, both for topical and oral applications. This review will provide an overview of the relationship between herbal skin care products and the skin aging process.

Relevant Topical Skin Care Products for Prevention and Treatment of Aging Skin

Options for skin care are varied. New products are introduced constantly and it is important for the practitioner to have an understanding of products that impart beneficial results for aging skin. Educating patients to use products with scientifically proven benefits leads to better outcomes. Patients should be encouraged to use daily sunscreen, a topical retinoid every night, and a topical antioxidant daily. Supplementing the routine skin care regimen with alpha hydroxy acids, growth factors, heparin sulfate, and defensins can be addressed individually. Exogenous stem cells do not have sufficient evidence to warrant recommending them currently.