Interaction of lipid nanoparticles with human epidermis and an organotypic cell culture model

Investigating the Anti-Inflammatory Properties and Skin Penetration Ability of Cornelian Cherry (Cornus mas L.) Extracts

Plant extracts can be a valuable source of biologically active compounds in many cosmetic preparations. Their effect depends on the phytochemicals they contain and their ability to penetrate the skin. Therefore, in this study, the possibility of skin penetration by phenolic acids contained in dogwood extracts of different fruit colors (yellow, red, and dark ruby red) prepared using different extractants was investigated. These analyses were performed using a Franz chamber and HPLC-UV chromatography. Moreover, the antioxidant properties of the tested extracts were compared and their impact on the intracellular level of free radicals in skin cells was assessed. The cytotoxicity of these extracts towards keratinocytes and fibroblasts was also analyzed and their anti-inflammatory properties were assessed using the enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA). The analyses showed differences in the penetration of individual phenolic acids into the skin and different biological activities of the tested extracts. None of the extracts had cytotoxic effects on skin cells in vitro, and the strongest antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties were found in dogwood extracts with dark ruby red fruits.

Kombucha as a Potential Active Ingredient in Cosmetics-An Ex Vivo Skin Permeation Study

Kombucha is a non-alcoholic beverage, that is increasingly used in the cosmetic industry. The available literature reports the positive effects of kombucha on the skin, in particular its antioxidant action. However, there is a lack of information on skin permeation and the accumulation of active ingredients showing such effects. Skin aging is largely dependent on oxidative stress, therefore in our study we assessed the ex vivo permeation of two types of kombucha (green and black tea) through porcine skin. The antioxidant activity (DPPH, ABTS, FRAP methods) and total polyphenol content of these extracts were determined before and after permeation testing. Moreover, the content of selected phenolic acids as well as caffeine was assessed. Skin permeation was determined using a Franz diffusion cell. The antioxidant activity of both Kombuchas was found to be high. In addition, gallic acid, chlorogenic acid, protocatechuic acid, coumaric acid, m-hydroxybenzoic acid, and caffeine were identified. A 24-h ex vivo study showed the permeation of some phenolic acids and caffeine and their accumulation in the skin. Our results confirm the importance of studying the skin permeation of what are still little known ingredients in cosmetic preparations. Evaluation of the accumulation of these ingredients can guarantee the efficacy of such preparations.

Evaluation of the in vitro permeation parameters of topical ketoprofen and lidocaine hydrochloride from transdermal Pentravan® products through human skin

In the treatment of pain, especially chronic pain, the rule of multimodal therapy applies, based on various painkillers mechanisms of action. The aim of the conducted study was to evaluate the in vitro penetration of ketoprofen (KET) and lidocaine hydrochloride (LH) through the human skin from a vehicle with transdermal properties. The results obtained with the use of the Franz chamber showed statistically significantly higher penetration of KET from the transdermal vehicle as compared to commercial preparations. It was also shown that the addition of LH to the transdermal vehicle did not change the amount of KET permeated. The study also compared the penetration of KET and LH by adding various excipients to the transdermal vehicle. Comparing the cumulative mass of KET that penetrated after the 24-h study, it was observed that the significantly highest permeation was found for the vehicle containing additionally Tinctura capsici, then for that containing camphor and ethanol, and the vehicle containing menthol and ethanol as compared to that containing Pentravan^® alone. A similar tendency was observed in the case of LH, where the addition of Tinctura capsici, menthol and camphor led to a statistically significant higher penetration. Adding certain drugs such as KET and LH to Pentravan^®, and substances such as menthol, camphor or capsaicin, can be an interesting alternative to administered enteral drugs especially in the group of patients with multiple diseases and polypragmasy.

New Ferulic Acid and Amino Acid Derivatives with Increased Cosmeceutical and Pharmaceutical Potential

Ferulic acid (FA) has been widely used in the pharmaceutical and cosmetics industry due to its, inter alia, antioxidant, antiaging and anti-inflammatory effects This compound added to cosmetic preparations can protect skin because of its photoprotective activity. However, the usefulness of FA as a therapeutic agent is limited due to its low solubility and bioavailability. The paper presents the synthesis, identification, and physicochemical properties of new FA derivatives with propyl esters of three amino acids, glycine (GPr[FA]), L-leucine (LPr[FA]), and L-proline (PPr[FA]). The NMR and FTIR spectroscopy, DSC, and TG analysis were used as analytical methods. Moreover, water solubility of the new conjugates was compared with the parent acid. Both ferulic acid and its conjugates were introduced into hydrogel and emulsion, and the resulting formulations were evaluated for stability. Additionally, in vitro penetration of all studied compounds from both formulations and for comparative purposes using Franz diffusion cells was evaluated from the solution in 70% (v/v) ethanol. Finally, cytotoxicity against murine fibroblasts L929 was tested. All of the analyzed compounds permeated pig skin and accumulated in it. LPr[FA] and PPr[FA] were characterized by much better permeability compared to the parent ferulic acid. Additionally, it was shown that all the analyzed derivatives are characterized by high antioxidant activity and lack of cytotoxicity. Therefore, they can be considered as an interesting alternative to be applied in dermatologic and cosmetic preparations.

Evaluation of the Structural Modification of Ibuprofen on the Penetration Release of Ibuprofen from a Drug-in-Adhesive Matrix Type Transdermal Patch

This study aimed to evaluate the effect of chemical modifications of the structure of active compounds on the skin permeation and accumulation of ibuprofen [IBU] from the acrylic pressure-sensitive adhesive used as a drug-in-adhesives matrix type transdermal patch. The active substances tested were ibuprofen salts obtained by pairing the ibuprofen anion with organic cations, such as amino acid isopropyl esters. The structural modification of ibuprofen tested were Ibuprofen sodium salt, [GlyOiPr][IBU], [AlaOiPr][IBU], [ValOiPr][IBU], [SerOiPr][IBU], [ThrOiPr][IBU], [(AspOiPr)₂][IBU], [LysOiPr][IBU], [LysOiPr][IBU]₂, [PheOiPr][IBU], and [ProOiPr][IBU]. For comparison, the penetration of unmodified ibuprofen and commercially available patches was also investigated. Thus, twelve transdermal patches with new drug modifications have been developed whose adhesive carrier is an acrylate copolymer. The obtained patches were characterized for their adhesive properties and tested for permeability of the active substance. Our results show that the obtained ibuprofen patches demonstrate similar permeability to commercial patches compared to those with structural modifications of ibuprofen. However, these modified patches show an increased drug permeability of 2.3 to even 6.4 times greater than unmodified ibuprofen. Increasing the permeability of the active substance and properties such as adhesion, cohesion, and tack make the obtained patches an excellent alternative to commercial patches containing ibuprofen.

Influence of the Type of Amino Acid on the Permeability and Properties of Ibuprofenates of Isopropyl Amino Acid Esters

Modifications of (RS)-2-[4-(2-methylpropyl)phenyl] propanoic acid with amino acid isopropyl esters were synthesised using different methods via a common intermediate. The main reaction was the esterification of the carboxyl group of amino acids with isopropanol and chlorination of the amino group of the amino acid, followed by an exchange or neutralisation reaction and protonation. All of the proposed methods were very efficient, and the compounds obtained have great potential to be more effective drugs with increased skin permeability compared with ibuprofen. In addition, it was shown how the introduction of a modification in the form of an ion pair affects the properties of the obtained compound.

Microneedle-Mediated Transdermal Delivery of Drug-Carrying Nanoparticles

Drug-carrying nanoparticles have obtained great attention for disease treatments due to the fact that they can improve drug solubility, provide drug protection and prolong release duration, thus enhancing drug bioavailability and increasing therapeutic efficacy. Although nanoparticles containing drugs can be administered via different routes such as oral, intravenous and ocular, transdermal delivery of nanoparticles mediated by microneedles has attracted considerable interest due to the capability of circumventing enzymatic degradation caused by gastrointestinal track, and increasing patient compliance by reducing pain associated with hypodermic injection. In this review, we first introduce four types of nanoparticles that were used for drug delivery, and then summarize strategies that have been employed to facilitate delivery of drug-loaded nanoparticles via microneedles. Finally, we give a conclusion and provide our perspectives on the potential clinical translation of microneedle-facilitated nanoparticles delivery.

Assessment of the Effect of Structural Modification of Ibuprofen on the Penetration of Ibuprofen from Pentravan® (Semisolid) Formulation Using Human Skin and a Transdermal Diffusion Test Model

The effect of transdermal vehicle (Pentravan®) on skin permeability was examined for unmodified ibuprofen (IBU) and ion pairs of ibuprofen with new L-valine alkyl esters [ValOR][IBU]. The percutaneous permeation across the human skin and transdermal diffusion test model (Strat-M® membranes) of ibuprofen and its structural modification were measured and compared using Franz diffusion cells. For comparison, the penetration of ibuprofen from a commercial product was also investigated. The cumulative amount of drug permeated through human skin at the end of the 24 h study was highest for ibuprofen derivatives containing propyl (C3), isopropyl (C3), ethyl (C2), and butyl (C4) esters. For Strat-M®, the best results were obtained with the alkyl chain length of the ester from C2 to C5. The permeation profiles and parameters were appointed, such as steady-state flux, lag time, and permeability coefficient. It has been shown that L-valine alkyl ester ibuprofenates, with the propyl, butyl, and amyl chain, exhibit a higher permeation rate than ibuprofen. The diffusion parameters of analyzed drugs through human skin and Strat-M® were similar and with good correlation. The resulting Pentravan-based creams with ibuprofen in the form of an ionic pair represent a potential alternative to other forms of the drug-containing analgesics administered transdermally. Furthermore, the Strat-M® membranes can be used to assess the permeation of transdermal preparations containing anti-inflammatory drugs.

Lipid Nanocarriers for Hyperproliferative Skin Diseases

Simple Summary

Different drugs, including antiproliferative and corticosteroids in general, are recommended for the treatment of hyperproliferative skin diseases (HSD). The effectiveness of many of these drugs is limited due to their low solubility in water and low penetration in the skin. The loading of these drugs in lipid nanocarriers, such as lipid nanoparticles and liposomes, has been considered as a successful solution to improve the drug bioavailability through the skin, to control their release kinetics and thus reduce the risk of potential side effects. In this work, we discuss the use of lipid nanocarriers loading drugs against HSD.

Abstract

Hyperproliferative skin diseases (HSD) are a group of diseases that include cancers, pre-cancerous lesions and diseases of unknown etiology that present different skin manifestations in terms of the degree and distribution of the injuries. Anti-proliferative agents used to treat these diseases are so diverse, including 5-aminolevulinic acid, 5-fluorouracil, imiquimod, methotrexate, paclitaxel, podophyllotoxin, realgar, and corticosteroids in general. These drugs usually have low aqueous solubility, which consequently decreases skin permeation. Thus, their incorporation in lipid nanocarriers has been proposed with the main objective to increase the effectiveness of topical treatment and reduce side effects. This manuscript aims to describe the advantages of using lipid nanoparticles and liposomes that can be used to load diversity of chemically different drugs for the treatment of HSD.

Design and development of topical liposomal formulations in a regulatory perspective

The skin is the absorption site for drug substances intended to treat loco-regional diseases, although its barrier properties limit the permeation of drug molecules. The growing knowledge of the skin structure and its physiology have supported the design of innovative nanosystems (e.g. liposomal systems) to improve the absorption of poorly skin-permeable drugs. However, despite the dozens of clinical trials started, few topically applied liposomal systems have been authorized both in the EU and the USA. Indeed, the intrinsic complexity of the topically applied liposomal systems, the higher production costs, the lack of standardized methods and the more stringent guidelines for assessing their benefit/risk balance can be seen as causes of such inefficient translation. The present work aimed to provide an overview of the physicochemical and biopharmaceutical characterization methods that can be applied to topical liposomal systems intended to be marketed as medicinal products, and the current regulatory provisions. The discussion highlights how such methodologies can be relevant for defining the critical quality attributes of the final product, and they can be usefully applied based on the phase of the life cycle of a liposomal product: to guide the formulation studies in the early stages of development, to rationally design preclinical and clinical trials, to support the pharmaceutical quality control system and to sustain post-marketing variations. The provided information can help define harmonized quality standards able to overcome the case-by-case approach currently applied by regulatory agencies in assessing the benefit/risk of the topically applied liposomal systems.

Sustainable UV-Crosslinkable Acrylic Pressure-Sensitive Adhesives for Medical Application

This study aimed to investigate the potential of photoreactive acrylate patches as systems for transdermal drug delivery, in particular, using more renewable alternatives and more environmentally friendly synthesis routes of transdermal patches. Therefore, the aim of this study was to develop a transdermal patch containing ibuprofen and investigate its performance in vitro through the pigskin. Transparent patches were prepared using four acrylate copolymers with an incorporated photoinitiator. Two types of transdermal patches based on the photocrosslinking acrylic prepolymers with isobornyl methacrylate as biocomponent and monomer increasing Tg ("hard") were manufactured. The obtained patches were characterized for their adhesive properties and tested for permeability of the active substance. It turns out that patches whose adhesive matrix is photoreactive polyacrylate copolymers have a higher cohesion than patches from commercial adhesives, while the modification of the copolymers with isobornyl methacrylate resulted in an improvement in adhesion and tack. This study demonstrates the feasibility of developing photoreactive acrylic-based transdermal patches that contain biocomponents that can deliver a therapeutically relevant dose of ibuprofen.

Cholesterol and phospholipid-free multilamellar niosomes regulate transdermal permeation of a hydrophobic agent potentially administrated for treating diseases in deep hair follicles

We designed cholesterol- and phospholipid-free multilamellar niosomes (MLNs) structured by glyceryl monooleate (GMO) and poloxamer 407 (F127), and evaluated their capacity for transdermal drug delivery. The optimized MLNs had a mean size of 97.88 ± 63.25 nm and an encapsulation efficiency of 82.68% ± 2.14%. Notably, the MLNs exhibited a remarkable sustained cargo release. Compared with the tincture, lower transdermal flux but higher skin deposition of aconitine in vitro were achieved in the MLN group (p < 0.05). We further found that MLNs improved the permeability of the stratum corneum. Additionally, both water-soluble rhodamine B- and liposoluble coumarin 6-labeled MLNs were found to penetrate deeply into the skin through the hair follicles and could be internalized by fibroblasts (CCC-ESF-1). The MLNs possessed greater wettability, and the study focused on delivery to deeper hair follicles and up to the outer hair sheath, which showed advantages for treating diseases of hair follicles, and was potentially superior to the hydrophobic PLGA nanoparticles (diameter: 637.87 ± 22.77 nm) which mainly accumulated in superficial hair follicles. Hair follicles were therefore demonstrated to be an important way to enhance skin permeability, and MLNs are a promising alternative for topical and transdermal drug delivery.

Human skin equivalents: Impaired barrier function in relation to the lipid and protein properties of the stratum corneum

To advance drug development representative reliable skin models are indispensable. Animal skin as test model for human skin delivery is restricted as their properties greatly differ from human skin. In vitro 3D-human skin equivalents (HSEs) are valuable tools as they recapitulate important aspects of the human skin. However, HSEs still lack the full barrier functionality as observed in native human skin, resulting in suboptimal screening outcome. In this review we provide an overview of established in-house and commercially available HSEs and discuss in more detail to what extent their skin barrier biology is mimicked in vitro focusing on the lipid properties and cornified envelope. Further, we will illustrate how underlying factors, such as culture medium improvements and environmental factors affect the barrier lipids. Lastly, potential improvements in skin barrier function will be proposed aiming at a new generation of HSEs that may replace animal skin delivery studies fully.

Lipid Nanoparticles Loaded with Selected Iridoid Glycosides as Effective Components of Hydrogel Formulations

One possibility of improving active ingredient penetration into deeper skin layers to enhance the cosmetic product effectiveness, is the application of lipid nanoparticles. The aim of the study presented in this paper was to evaluate the potential of hydrogel formulations enriched with iridoid glycosides-loaded lipid nanoparticles. Lipid nanocarriers were produced using an emulsification-ultrasonication method based on multiple emulsions. The encapsulation efficiency was determined at the level of 89% and 77% for aucubin and catalpol, respectively. The next stage was the incorporation of the obtained dispersions of lipid nanoparticles into hydrogel formulations, followed by determination of their physicochemical properties, shelf-life stability, and application properties (in vivo tests). The introduction of lipid nanoparticles increased the stabilization of the consistency of the obtained hydrogel formulations, and was confirmed by viscosity measurements. No effect of lipid nanoparticle incorporation on shelf-life stability of the hydrogels was detected. In vivo studies showed improvements in moisture content of the epidermis, transepidermal water loss, skin topography, and macrorelief parameters. In particular, a synergistic effect of the active ingredients and lipid nanoparticles on the anti-wrinkle effect, moisturizing effect, and regeneration of the protective barrier of the stratum corneum was evidenced. The attractiveness of aucubin and catalpol as cosmetic raw materials in hydrogel formulations was evidenced, especially when the iridoid glycosides were applied in the form of lipid nanoparticles.

Epilobium angustifolium L. Extracts as Valuable Ingredients in Cosmetic and Dermatological Products

Epilobium angustifolium L. is a popular and well-known medicinal plant. In this study, an attempt to evaluate the possibility of using this plant in preparations for the care and treatment of skin diseases was made. The antioxidant, antiaging and anti-inflammatory properties of ethanolic extracts from Epilobium angustifolium (FEE) were assessed. Qualitative and quantitative evaluation of extracts chemically composition was performed by gas chromatography with mass spectrometry (GC-MS) and high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). The total polyphenol content (TPC) of biologically active compounds, such as the total content of polyphenols (TPC), flavonoids (TFC), and assimilation pigments, as well as selected phenolic acids, was assessed. FEE was evaluated for their anti-inflammatory and antiaging properties, achieving 68% inhibition of lipoxygenase activity, 60% of collagenase and 49% of elastase. FEE also showed high antioxidant activity, reaching to 87% of free radical scavenging using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 59% using 2,2'-azinobis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS). Additionally, in vitro penetration studies were performed using two vehicles, i.e., a hydrogel and an emulsion containing FEE. These studies showed that the active ingredients contained in FEE penetrate through human skin and accumulate in it. The obtained results indicate that E. angustifolium may be an interesting plant material to be applied as a component of cosmetic and dermatological preparations with antiaging and anti-inflammatory properties.

A Method to Investigate the Epidermal Permeability Barrier In Vitro

The epidermal permeability barrier serves as a multifunctional partition to protect its host from the external environment. Most epidermal permeability barrier studies have been conducted using in vivo human and experimental animals, although some studies have used in vitro cultured cells. There currently is an increased demand for these cultured models, thus avoiding the use of laboratory animals. Here, we first summarize required features that need to be recaptured in cultured keratinocytes for an epidermal permeability barrier study and second, we describe a method for culturing these cells. We also introduce methods to analyze epidermal permeability barrier function using cultured keratinocytes.

In Vitro Human Skin Penetration, Antioxidant and Antimicrobial Activity of Ethanol-Water Extract of Fireweed (Epilobium angustifolium L.)

Epilobium angustifolium L. is applied as an antiseptic agent in the treatment of skin diseases. However, there is a lack of information on human skin penetration of active ingredients with antioxidative potential. It seems crucial because bacterial infections of skin and subcutaneous tissue are common and partly depend on oxidative stress. Therefore, we evaluated in vitro human skin penetration of fireweed ethanol-water extracts (FEEs) by determining antioxidant activity of these extracts before and after penetration study using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS), and Folin-Ciocalteu methods. Microbiological tests of extracts were done. The qualitative and quantitative evaluation was performed using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) and high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC-UV) methods. The in vitro human skin penetration using the Franz diffusion chamber was assessed. The high antioxidant activity of FEEs was found. Gallic acid (GA), chlorogenic acid (ChA), 3,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid (3,4-DHB), 4-hydroxybenzoic acid (4-HB), and caffeic acid (CA) were identified in the extracts. The antibacterial activities were found against Serratia lutea, S. marcescens, Bacillus subtilis, B. pseudomycoides, and B. thuringiensis and next Enterococcus faecalis, E. faecium, Streptococcus pneumoniae, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and P. fluorescens strains. In vitro penetration studies showed the penetration of some phenolic acids and their accumulation in the skin. Our results confirm the importance of skin penetration studies to guarantee the efficacy of formulations containing E. angustifolium extracts.

The effect of alcohols as vehicles on the percutaneous absorption and skin retention of ibuprofen modified with l-valine alkyl esters

The effect of various alcohols as vehicles on skin permeability was compared for unmodified ibuprofen (IBU) and ion pairs of ibuprofen with l-valine alkyl esters [ValOR][IBU], in which the alkyl chain R was changed from C1 to C8. In vitro permeation experiments were conducted in a Franz cell with porcine skin. Methanol, ethanol, and isopropanol solutions of 70% (v/v) were chosen as vehicles for penetrants and a buffer solution of pH 5.4 or 7.4 as the acceptor phase. The comparisons of permeation profiles for various [ValOR][IBU] from different alcohols were determined. The cumulative mass, skin accumulation, steady-state flux, diffusion coefficient, and lag time were investigated and compared. It was observed that i-propanol was the best enhancer of skin permeation of both unmodified ibuprofen and its salts with l-valine alkyl esters for both acceptor phases. The permeability of the various carriers increases with increasing chain-length of the alcohol. In most cases, significantly higher cumulative mass was found in the acceptor buffer of pH 7.4. The conjugate of ibuprofen with l-valine propyl ester [ValOPr][IBU] permeated the skin to the highest degree in comparison to unmodified ibuprofen. The accumulation of ibuprofen was higher for all salts in relation to the parent acid applied onto the skin. The greatest amounts of ibuprofen were accumulated in the skin when ibuprofen was used as the ionic pair with l-valine butyl ester, [ValOBu][IBU] in the i-propanol solution and pH 7.4 buffer as the acceptor phase.

The effect of various alcohols as vehicles on skin permeability was compared for unmodified ibuprofen (IBU) and ion pairs of ibuprofen with l-valine alkyl esters [ValOR][IBU], in which the alkyl chain R was changed from C1 to C8.

Bioengineered Skin Intended as In Vitro Model for Pharmacosmetics, Skin Disease Study and Environmental Skin Impact Analysis

This review aims to be an update of Bioengineered Artificial Skin Substitutes (BASS) applications. At the first moment, they were created as an attempt to replace native skin grafts transplantation. Nowadays, these in vitro models have been increasing and widening their application areas, becoming important tools for research. This study is focus on the ability to design in vitro BASS which have been demonstrated to be appropriate to develop new products in the cosmetic and pharmacology industry. Allowing to go deeper into the skin disease research, and to analyze the effects provoked by environmental stressful agents. The importance of BASS to replace animal experimentation is also highlighted. Furthermore, the BASS validation parameters approved by the OECD (Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development) are also analyzed. This report presents an overview of the skin models applicable to skin research along with their design methods. Finally, the potential and limitations of the currently available BASS to supply the demands for disease modeling and pharmaceutical screening are discussed.

Enhancement of the antioxidant and skin permeation properties of eugenol by the esterification of eugenol to new derivatives

The aim of the study was to determine the antioxidant activity and assess the lipophilicity and skin penetration of eugenyl chloroacetate (EChA), eugenyl dichloroacetate (EDChA), and eugenyl trichloroacetate (ETChA). Identification of the obtained products was based on gas chromatography (GC), infrared spectroscopy (FTIR/ATR), gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (GC-MS), and the analysis of 13C-NMR and 1H-NMR spectra. The antioxidative capacity of the derivatives obtained was determined by the DPPH free radical reduction method, while the octanol/water partition coefficient (shake-flask method) was tested to determine the lipophilicity of these compounds. In the next stage of testing EDChA and ETChA-(compounds characterized by the highest degree of free radical scavenging), the penetration of DPPH through pig skin and its accumulation in the skin were evaluated. For comparison, penetration studies of eugenol alone as well as dichloroacetic acid (DChAA) and trichloroacetic acid (TChAA) were also carried out. The antioxidant activity (DPPH, ABTS, and Folin-Ciocalteu methods) of the fluid that penetrated through pig skin was also evaluated. The in vitro pig skin penetration study showed that eugenol derivatives are particularly relevant for topical application. The obtained derivatives were characterized by a high level of antioxidant activity estimated after 24 h of conducting the experiment, which indicates long-term protection against reactive oxygen species (ROS) in the deeper layers of the skin.

Formulating SLN and NLC as Innovative Drug Delivery Systems for Non-Invasive Routes of Drug Administration

Colloidal carriers diverge depending on their composition, ability to incorporate drugs and applicability, but the common feature is the small average particle size. Among the carriers with the potential nanostructured drug delivery application there are SLN and NLC. These nanostructured systems consist of complex lipids and highly purified mixtures of glycerides having varying particle size. Also, these systems have shown physical stability, protection capacity of unstable drugs, release control ability, excellent tolerability, possibility of vectorization, and no reported production problems related to large-scale. Several production procedures can be applied to achieve high association efficiency between the bioactive and the carrier, depending on the physicochemical properties of both, as well as on the production procedure applied. The whole set of unique advantages such as enhanced drug loading capacity, prevention of drug expulsion, leads to more flexibility for modulation of drug release and makes Lipid-based nanocarriers (LNCs) versatile delivery system for various routes of administration. The route of administration has a significant impact on the therapeutic outcome of a drug. Thus, the non-invasive routes, which were of minor importance as parts of drug delivery in the past, have assumed added importance drugs, proteins, peptides and biopharmaceuticals drug delivery and these include nasal, buccal, vaginal and transdermal routes. The objective of this paper is to present the state of the art concerning the application of the lipid nanocarriers designated for non-invasive routes of administration. In this manner, this review presents an innovative technological platform to develop nanostructured delivery systems with great versatility of application in non-invasive routes of administration and targeting drug release.

Enhancement of ibuprofen solubility and skin permeation by conjugation with l-valine alkyl esters

New ibuprofen derivatives were made via conjugation with l-valine alkyl esters (ValOR), where R was changed from an ethyl to a hexyl group. The ionic structure was confirmed using NMR and FTIR. Specific rotation, solubility in commonly used solvents, thermal properties including phase transitions temperatures, and thermal stability were also determined. The ionic structure with a protonated amine group on an l-valine ester and melting points below 100 °C allowed inclusion of these ibuprofen derivatives into the pharmaceutically active protic ionic liquids. The ibuprofen salt solubility in deionised water and two buffer solutions at pH 5.4 and 7.4 were established and compared with the parent acid solubility. The octanol/water (buffer) partition coefficient, permeation through porcine skin, and accumulation in the skin were also measured. Ibuprofen pairing with l-valine alkyl esters [ValOR][IBU], caused higher solubility and a greater drug molecule absorption through biological membranes. log P was lower for ibuprofen salts than for the acid and it increased with a longer l-valine ester cation alkyl chain. In vitro porcine skin tests showed that ibuprofen salts with a propyl or isopropyl ester in l-valine are particularly relevant for topical application. They provide transport for ibuprofen through the skin at much higher rate than the unmodified acid and a higher permeated ibuprofen concentration, which can improve efficacy. Thus, synthesised ibuprofen derivatives could be used as drug carriers in transdermal systems to provide better drug bioavailability, and they can be also be the source of exogenous l-valine.

New ibuprofen derivatives made via conjugation with l-valine alkyl esters have better solubility in aqueous solutions and a lower log P value compared to the parent acid. They provide faster and more completely permeation of drug through the skin.

Research Techniques Made Simple: Transepidermal Water Loss Measurement as a Research Tool

Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) is the most widely used objective measurement for assessing the barrier function of skin in healthy individuals but also patients with skin diseases that are associated with skin barrier dysfunction, such as atopic dermatitis. TEWL is the quantity of condensed water that diffuses across a fixed area of stratum corneum to the skin surface per unit time. The water evaporating from the skin is measured using a probe that is placed in contact with the skin surface and contains sensors that detect changes in water vapor density. TEWL can be measured using an open-chamber, unventilated-chamber, or condenser-chamber device. It is a sensitive measure that is affected by properties of the surrounding microclimate such as environmental humidity, temperature, and airflow and should be measured under controlled conditions. TEWL varies significantly across different anatomical sites and also depends on sweat gland activity, skin temperature, and corneocyte properties. Here we describe how to optimally use TEWL measurements as a skin research tool in vivo and in vitro.

Unravelling effects of relative humidity on lipid barrier formation in human skin equivalents

Relative humidity (RH) levels vary continuously in vivo, although during in vitro generation of three-dimensional human skin equivalents (HSEs) these remain high (90-95%) to prevent evaporation of the cell-culture medium. However, skin functionality is directly influenced by environmental RH. As the barrier formation in HSEs is different, there is a need to better understand the role of cell-culture conditions during the generation of HSEs. In this study, we aim to investigate the effects of RH on epidermal morphogenesis and lipid barrier formation in HSEs. Therefore, two types of HSEs were developed at 90% or at 60% RH. Assessments were performed to determine epidermal morphogenesis by immunohistochemical analyses, ceramide composition by lipidomic analysis, and lipid organization by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and small-angle X-ray diffraction. We show that reduction of RH mainly affected the uppermost viable epidermal layers in the HSEs, including an enlargement of the granular cells and induction of epidermal cell activation. Neither the composition nor the organization of the lipids in the intercorneocyte space were substantially altered at reduced RH. In addition, lipid processing from glucosylceramides to ceramides was not affected by reduced RH in HSEs as shown by enzyme expression, enzyme activity, and substrate-to-product ratio. Our results demonstrate that RH directly influences epidermal morphogenesis, albeit the in vitro lipid barrier formation is comparable at 90% and 60% RH.

Topical and cutaneous delivery using nanosystems

The goal of topical and cutaneous delivery is to deliver therapeutic and other substances to a desired target site in the skin at appropriate doses to achieve a safe and efficacious outcome. Normally, however, when the stratum corneum is intact and the skin barrier is uncompromised, this is limited to molecules that are relatively lipophilic, small and uncharged, thereby excluding many potentially useful therapeutic peptides, proteins, vaccines, gene fragments or drug-carrying particles. In this review we will describe how nanosystems are being increasingly exploited for topical and cutaneous delivery, particularly for these previously difficult substances. This is also being driven by the development of novel technologies, which include minimally invasive delivery systems and more precise fabrication techniques. While there is a vast array of nanosystems under development and many undergoing advanced clinical trials, relatively few have achieved full translation to clinical practice. This slow uptake may be due, in part, to the need for a rigorous demonstration of safety in these new nanotechnologies. Some of the safety aspects associated with nanosystems will be considered in this review.

Biological voyage of solid lipid nanoparticles: a proficient carrier in nanomedicine

This review projects the prospects and issues faced by solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) in current scenarios, specially related to its clinical implementation and effectiveness. We re-examine the basic concept of biobehavior and movement of SLNs as a nanomedicine carrier. The extensive survey of the uptake and absorption mechanism from different routes, distribution pattern, targeting efficiency, effect of surface functionalization on biodistribution, elimination pathways and toxic effects have been documented. In general, the objective of this review is to boost our knowledge about the interaction of SLNs with the bioenvironment, their movement in, and effect on, a living system and future prospects.

Physico-chemical Characterization of Turbidity-Causing Particles in Beet Sugar Solutions

The occurrence of turbidity is a frequently observed phenomenon in beet sugar manufacturing, particularly in thick juice. The presence of small dispersed turbidity-causing particles can have a direct impact on the consumer’s perceivable quality of white sugar containing products. Therefore, this work aims to characterize those turbidity-causing particles and elucidate the mechanism of their formation. Samples from various European beet sugar plants were collected during different sugar production periods. The turbidity of white sugar is found to be mainly related to small calcium oxalate particles (0.45–1 µm). Their occurrence is obviously related to the presence of calcium and oxalate. However, the analysis presented documents that beyond the levels of these ions, other factors like storage time, the change of environment due to microbiological processes as well as simple processing steps have a profound effect on turbidity levels. The results confirm that also at an industrial scale calcium oxalate dihydrate precipitates from concentrated sucrose solutions despite the fact that calcium oxalate monohydrate is the most stable form. In summary our analysis of turbidity at an industrial scale marks a starting point for any further turbidity reduction approach.

Applications and limitations of lipid nanoparticles in dermal and transdermal drug delivery via the follicular route

Lipid nanoparticles (LN) such as solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) and nanolipid carriers (NLC) feature several claimed benefits for topical drug therapy including biocompatible ingredients, drug release modification, adhesion to the skin, and film formation with subsequent hydration of the superficial skin layers. However, penetration and permeation into and across deeper skin layers are restricted due to the barrier function of the stratum corneum (SC). As different kinds of nanoparticles provide the potential for penetration into hair follicles (HF) LN are applicable drug delivery systems (DDS) for this route in order to enhance the dermal and transdermal bioavailability of active pharmaceutical ingredients (API). Therefore, this review addresses the HF as application site, published formulations of LN which showed follicular penetration (FP), and characterization methods in order to identify and quantify the accumulation of API delivered by the LN in the HF. Since LN are based on lipids that appear in human sebum which is the predominant medium in HF an increased localization of the colloidal carriers as well as a promoted drug release may be assumed. Therefore, sebum-like lipid material and a size of less or equal 640 nm are appropriate specifications for FP of particulate formulations.

Microneedle/nanoencapsulation-mediated transdermal delivery: Mechanistic insights

A systematic study was undertaken to gain more insight into the mechanism of transdermal delivery of nanoencapsulated model dyes across microneedle (MN)-treated skin, a complex process not yet explored. Rhodamine B (Rh B) and fluorescein isothiocyanate (FITC) as model hydrophilic and hydrophobic small/medium-size molecules, respectively, were encapsulated in poly lactic-co-glycolic acid (PLGA) nanoparticles (NPs) and delivered through full thickness porcine skin pretreated with MN array. Permeation through MN-treated skin was affected by physicochemical characteristics of NPs and the encapsulated dyes. Dye flux was enhanced by smaller particle size, hydrophilicity, and negative zeta potential of NPs. Regarding encapsulated dyes, solubility at physiological pH and potential interaction with skin proteins proved to outweigh molecular weight as determinants of skin permeation. Data were verified using confocal laser scanning microscopy imaging. Findings coupled with the literature data are supportive of a mechanism involving influx of NPs, particularly of smaller size, deep into MN-created channels, generating depot dye-rich reservoirs. Molecular diffusion of the released dye across viable skin layers proceeds at a rate determined by its molecular characteristics. Data obtained provide mechanistic information of importance to the development of formulation strategies for more effective intradermal and transdermal MN-mediated delivery of nanoencapsulated therapeutic agents.

Comparative SAXS and DSC study on stratum corneum structural organization in an epidermal cell culture model (ROC): impact of cultivation time

Cell cultured skin equivalents present an alternative for dermatological in vitro evaluations of drugs and excipients as they provide the advantage of availability, lower variability and higher assay robustness compared to native skin. For penetration/permeation studies, an adequate stratum corneum barrier similar to that of human stratum corneum is, however, a prerequisite. In this study, the stratum corneum lipid organization in an epidermal cell culture model based on rat epidermal keratinocytes (REK organotypic culture, ROC) was investigated by small-angle X-ray scattering (SAXS) in dependence on ROC cultivation time and in comparison to native human and rat stratum cornea. In addition, the thermal phase behavior was studied by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and barrier properties were checked by measurements of the permeability of tritiated water. The development of the barrier of ROC SC obtained at different cultivation times (7, 14 and 21 days at the air-liquid interface) was connected with an increase in structural order of the SC lipids in SAXS measurements: Already cultivation for 14 days at the air-liquid interface resulted overall in a competent SC permeability barrier and SC lipid organization. Cultivation for 21 days resulted in further minor changes in the structural organization of ROC SC. The SAXS patterns of ROC SC had overall large similarities with that of human SC and point to the presence of a long periodicity phase with a repeat distance of about 122Å, e.g. slightly smaller than that determined for human SC in the present study (127Å). Moreover, SAXS results also indicate the presence of covalently bound ceramides, which are crucial for a proper SC barrier, although the corresponding thermal transitions were not clearly detectable by DSC. Due to the competent SC barrier properties and high structural and organizational similarity to that of native human SC, ROC presents a promising alternative for in vitro studies, particularly as it can be obtained under overall rather straightforward cell culture conditions and thus low assay costs.

Transdermal drug delivery using disk microneedle rollers in a hairless rat model

BACKGROUND

Transdermal drug delivery systems (TDDSs) represent more reliable and consistent methods of drug dosing than oral administration. However, TDDSs can administer only low molecular weight (MW) drugs and require a power source. Disk microneedle rollers facilitate the passage of low and high MW substances through the direct perforation of the stratum corneum and dermis, without stimulating dermal nerves.

OBJECTIVES

We investigated in vitro whether disk microneedle rollers, developed for the Diskneedle Therapy System (DTS™) in South Korea, can deliver drugs effectively through the skin of hairless rats.

METHODS

The disk microneedle rollers used in the DTS™ are metal and consist of several plates bearing microneedles of graded lengths (0.15 mm, 0.25 mm, 0.50 mm). To test in vitro permeation, the skin of a hairless rat was mounted in a Franz diffusion cell system and rolled with a disk roller without microneedles and with rollers fitted with microneedles of each size. Rhodamine B base (80 μl) was applied to the skin for 24 hours, 48 hours, and 72 hours, and dye permeation was detected at 543 nm. Dye binding to the skin was also confirmed using fluorescence microscopy at six hours after the application of rhodamine B.

RESULTS

Use of the disk microneedle roller increased the skin penetrance of rhodamine B base in hairless rats in accordance with microneedle length, as assessed using a fluorescence penetration test.

CONCLUSIONS

Disk microneedle rollers, as designed for the DTS™, can be used for transdermal drug delivery. Microneedles can be selected according to the length appropriate for each application.

Optimized loading and sustained release of hydrophilic proteins from internally nanostructured particles

In this study, we demonstrate that emulsified microemulsions and micellar cubosomes are suitable as sustained delivery vehicles for water-soluble proteins. Through structural modifications, the loading efficiency of two model proteins, namely bovine serum albumin (BSA) and cytochrome c could be remarkably increased. A procedure for preparing these particles loaded with optimized amounts of sensitive substances is presented. Loading and dispersion at low temperatures is performed in two successive steps. First, a water-in-oil microemulsion is loaded with the proteins. Subsequently, this phase is dispersed in water resulting in particles with microemulsion and micellar cubic internal structure and a size of approximately 620 nm. This two-step method ensures optimal loading of the particles with the proteins. These nanostructured particles are able to sustain the release of the water-soluble BSA and cytochrome c. Within one day, less than 10% of BSA and 15% of cytochrome c are released. The release rate of cytochrome c is influenced by the nanostructure of the particles.

Advances in biomimetic regeneration of elastic matrix structures

Elastin is a vital component of the extracellular matrix, providing soft connective tissues with the property of elastic recoil following deformation and regulating the cellular response via biomechanical transduction to maintain tissue homeostasis. The limited ability of most adult cells to synthesize elastin precursors and assemble them into mature crosslinked structures has hindered the development of functional tissue-engineered constructs that exhibit the structure and biomechanics of normal native elastic tissues in the body. In diseased tissues, the chronic overexpression of proteolytic enzymes can cause significant matrix degradation, to further limit the accumulation and quality (e.g., fiber formation) of newly deposited elastic matrix. This review provides an overview of the role and importance of elastin and elastic matrix in soft tissues, the challenges to elastic matrix generation in vitro and to regenerative elastic matrix repair in vivo, current biomolecular strategies to enhance elastin deposition and matrix assembly, and the need to concurrently inhibit proteolytic matrix disruption for improving the quantity and quality of elastogenesis. The review further presents biomaterial-based options using scaffolds and nanocarriers for spatio-temporal control over the presentation and release of these biomolecules, to enable biomimetic assembly of clinically relevant native elastic matrix-like superstructures. Finally, this review provides an overview of recent advances and prospects for the application of these strategies to regenerating tissue-type specific elastic matrix structures and superstructures.

Functionalized lipid nanoparticles-cellophane hybrid films for molecular delivery: preparation, physicochemical characterization, and stability

Lipid nanoparticles functionalized with the sunscreen 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone (FLNPs) have been prepared by the ultrasound method and embedded in highly hydrophilic cellophane supports (regenerated cellulose, RC), creating biocompatible hybrid films (RC-FLNPs samples). The morphology of the FLNPs was studied with transmission microscopy, whereas the surface and interior chemical composition was analyzed by micro-Raman spectroscopy. RC-FLNPs hybrid films were prepared from the immersion of two cellophane supports with different thicknesses and water uptake properties (RC-3 and RC-6) in an aqueous dispersion of FLNPs. The structure of this hybrid material was visualized with bright-field microscopy, which clearly showed the inclusion of the FLNPs in the cellophane matrix. The stability of the RC-FLNPs films with respect to both aqueous environments and time was demonstrated by NaCl diffusion measurements. The reduction in the diffusion coefficient through the nanoparticle-modified films compared with the original supports confirms the presence of nanoparticles for concentration gradients of up to 0.4 M (osmotic pressure around 10 bar), indicating the stability of the hybrid hydrophilic material, even in aqueous environments and under matter flow conditions for a period of 21 days.

Nanoparticles and microparticles for skin drug delivery

Skin is a widely used route of delivery for local and systemic drugs and is potentially a route for their delivery as nanoparticles. The skin provides a natural physical barrier against particle penetration, but there are opportunities to deliver therapeutic nanoparticles, especially in diseased skin and to the openings of hair follicles. Whilst nanoparticle drug delivery has been touted as an enabling technology, its potential in treating local skin and systemic diseases has yet to be realised. Most drug delivery particle technologies are based on lipid carriers, i.e. solid lipid nanoparticles and nanoemulsions of around 300 nm in diameter, which are now considered microparticles. Metal nanoparticles are now recognized for seemingly small drug-like characteristics, i.e. antimicrobial activity and skin cancer prevention. We present our unpublished clinical data on nanoparticle penetration and previously published reports that support the hypothesis that nanoparticles >10nm in diameter are unlikely to penetrate through the stratum corneum into viable human skin but will accumulate in the hair follicle openings, especially after massage. However, significant uptake does occur after damage and in certain diseased skin. Current chemistry limits both atom by atom construction of complex particulates and delineating their molecular interactions within biological systems. In this review we discuss the skin as a nanoparticle barrier, recent work in the field of nanoparticle drug delivery to the skin, and future directions currently being explored.

Adsorption of nonlamellar nanostructured liquid-crystalline particles to biorelevant surfaces for improved delivery of bioactive compounds

The adsorption of nanostructured lyotropic liquid-crystal particles, cubosomes and hexosomes, at surfaces was investigated for potential use in surface-specific agrochemical delivery. Adsorption of phytantriol (PHYT) and glyceryl monooleate (GMO)-based cubosomes and hexosomes, stabilized using Pluronic F127, at tristearin-coated (model leaf surface) and uncoated zinc selenide surfaces was studied using attenuated total reflectance Fourier transform IR (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy, by quantifying the IR absorbance due to the lipid components of the particles over time. The delivery of an encapsulated hydrophobic model herbicide [dichlorodiphenyldichloroethylene (DDE)] was also examined on the model and real leaf surfaces. The adsorption behavior of the particles by ATR-FTIR was dependent on the internal nanostructure and lipid composition, with PHYT cubosomes adsorbing more avidly at tristearin surfaces than GMO-based cubosomes or hexosomes. There was a direct correlation between DDE associated with the surfaces and the particle adsorption observed in the ATR-FTIR study, strongly implicating particle adsorption with the delivery efficiency. Differences between the mode of interaction of the Pluronic stabilizer with the different lipids and particle nanostructures were proposed to lead to differences in the particle adsorption behavior.

Internalisation of hybrid titanium dioxide/para-amino benzoic acid nanoparticles in human dendritic cells did not induce toxicity and changes in their functions

Nanoparticles (NPs) have been reported to penetrate into human skin through lesional skin or follicular structures. Therefore, their ability to interact with dendritic cell (DC) was investigated using DCs generated from monocytes (mono-DCs). Hybrid titanium dioxide/para-amino benzoic acid (TiO(2)/PABA) NPs did not induce any cell toxicity. NPs were internalised into DCs through macropinocytosis and not by a receptor-mediated mechanism. Confocal microscopy showed that NPs were not detected in the nucleus. These data are confirmed by electronic microscopy which demonstrated that hybrid NPs were rapidly in contact with cellular membrane and localised into cytoplasmic vesicles without colocalisation with clathrin-coated vesicles. Hybrid NPs did not induce CD86 or HLA-DR overexpression or cytokine secretion (IL-8 and TNF-α) indicating no DC activation. Internalisation of hybrid NPs did not modify DC response towards sensitisers such as nickel and thimerosal or LPS used as positive controls. Moreover, hybrid NPs did not induce any oxidative stress implicated in DC activation process. After mono-DC irradiation by ultraviolet A (UVA), hybrid NP-treated cells did not produce UVA-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS) and exhibited a better cell viability compared with UVA-irradiated control cells, suggesting a protecting effect of hybrid TiO(2)/PABA NPs against UVA-induced ROS.

Influence of microneedle shape on the transport of a fluorescent dye into human skin in vivo

Microneedles can enhance the penetration of vaccines into the skin for transcutaneous vaccination. In this study for the first time the influence of microneedle geometry on the transport through the formed conduits was visualised in human volunteers by confocal laser scanning microscopy. Three differently shaped 300 μm long microneedle arrays were selected and fluorescein was applied either before or after piercing. Based on the intensity a distinction was made between regions with high and low intensity fluorescence (HIF and LIF). The areas of both intensities were quantified over time. In most cases HIF areas were only present in the stratum corneum, while LIF areas were also present in the viable epidermis. The areas were larger if fluorescein was applied after piercing compared to before piercing. After 15 min almost no HIF was present anymore at the skin surface. The microneedle geometry, but not the manner of application affected the shape and depth of the conduits. In conclusion we showed that the different microneedle arrays are able to form conduits in the skin, but the geometry of the microneedles influences the penetration of the fluorescent dye. This is the first step towards a more rational design of microneedle arrays for transcutaneous vaccination.

Naturally occurring nanoparticles from English ivy: an alternative to metal-based nanoparticles for UV protection

Background

Over the last decade safety concerns have arisen about the use of metal-based nanoparticles in the cosmetics field. Metal-based nanoparticles have been linked to both environmental and animal toxicity in a variety of studies. Perhaps the greatest concern involves the large amounts of TiO₂ nanoparticles that are used in commercial sunscreens. As an alternative to using these potentially hazardous metal-based nanoparticles, we have isolated organic nanoparticles from English ivy (Hedera helix). In this study, ivy nanoparticles were evaluated for their potential use in sunscreens based on four criteria: 1) ability to absorb and scatter ultraviolet light, 2) toxicity to mammalian cells, 3) biodegradability, and 4) potential for diffusion through skin.

Results

Purified ivy nanoparticles were first tested for their UV protective effects using a standard spectrophotometric assay. Next the cell toxicity of the ivy nanoparticles was compared to TiO₂ nanoparticles using HeLa cells. The biodegradability of these nanoparticles was also determined through several digestion techniques. Finally, a mathematical model was developed to determine the potential for ivy nanoparticles to penetrate through human skin. The results indicated that the ivy nanoparticles were more efficient in blocking UV light, less toxic to mammalian cells, easily biodegradable, and had a limited potential to penetrate through human skin. When compared to TiO₂ nanoparticles, the ivy nanoparticles showed decreased cell toxicity, and were easily degradable, indicating that they provided a safer alternative to these nanoparticles.

Conclusions

With the data collected from this study, we have demonstrated the great potential of ivy nanoparticles as a sunscreen protective agent, and their increased safety over commonly used metal oxide nanoparticles.

The microstructure of the stratum corneum lipid barrier: mid-infrared spectroscopic studies of hydrated ceramide:palmitic acid:cholesterol model systems

The current mid-infrared spectroscopic study is a systematic investigation of hydrated stratum corneum lipid barrier model systems composed of an equimolar mixture of a ceramide, free palmitic acid and cholesterol. Four different ceramide molecules (CER NS, CER NP, CER NP-18:1, CER AS) were investigated with regard to their microstructure arrangement in a stratum corneum lipid barrier model system. Ceramide molecules were chosen from the sphingosine and phytosphingosine groups. The main differences in the used ceramide molecules result from their polar head group architecture as well as hydrocarbon chain properties. The mixing properties with cholesterol and palmitic acid are considered. This is feasible by using perdeuterated palmitic acid and proteated ceramides. Both molecules can be monitored separately, within the same experiment, using mid-infrared spectroscopy; no external label is necessary. At physiological relevant temperatures, between 30 and 35 degrees C, orthorhombic as well as hexagonal chain packing of the ceramide molecules is observed. The formation of these chain packings are extremely dependent on lipid hydration, with a decrease in ceramide hydration favouring the formation of orthorhombic hydrocarbon chain packing, as well as temperature. The presented data suggest in specific cases phase segregation in ceramide and palmitic acid rich phases. However, other ceramides like CER NP-18:1 show a rather high miscibility with palmitic acid and cholesterol. For all investigated ternary systems, more or less mixing of palmitic acid with cholesterol is observed. The investigated stratum corneum mixtures exhibit a rich polymorphism from crystalline domains with heterogeneous lipid composition to a "fluid" homogeneous phase. Thus, a single gel phase is not evident for the presented stratum corneum model systems. The study shows, that under skin physiological conditions (pH 5.5, hydrated, 30-35 degrees C) ternary systems composed of an equimolar ratio of ceramides, free palmitic acid and cholesterol may form gel-like domains delimitated by a liquid-crystalline phase boundary. The presented results support the microstructural arrangement of the stratum corneum lipids as suggested by the domain mosaic model.