Chemical ultraviolet absorbers topically applied in a skin barrier mimetic formulation remain in the outer stratum corneum of porcine skin

MS imaging and absorption methods visualizing sun filter skin spatial distribution and penetration

Sunscreens must now be effective in protecting skin from ultraviolet, as well as visible/infrared radiation. Here, TriAsorB, a new broad-spectrum sun filter, was formulated with three other sunscreens and their distribution on human skin was studied using a standard penetration protocol and two novel mass spectrometry imaging techniques: atmospheric pressure matrix assisted laser desorption ionization (AP-MALDI) coupled to high resolution mass spectrometry and time of flight - secondary ion mass spectrometry (ToF-SIMS). The standard penetration protocol showed that sun filters absorption was very low, with most of the dose recovered at the surface (none entered the receptor fluid). Absorption was not increased in damaged skin. The results were confirmed by AP-MALDI and ToF-SIMS imaging of the spatial distribution of molecular species in cross-section samples of human skin. Each sun filter was detected on or in the stratum corneum, with a good homogenous coverage over the valleys and peaks of the skin, and correlated well with the distribution of endogenous biomarkers. In conclusion, conventional and novel imaging analysis methods showed that the sun filters remained mainly on the skin surface after topical application. Mass spectrometry imaging is a promising complementary approach to traditional skin penetration studies to visualize penetration of compounds.

Profiling skin penetration using PEGylated emulsifiers as penetration enhancers via confocal Raman spectroscopy and fluorescence spectroscopy

Non-ionic emulsifiers have been continuous research focus in skin analysis. With the aim of finding their role as penetration enhancers in dermal drug delivery systems, PEGylated emulsifiers of polyethylene glycol (PEG) ethers were targeted to be investigated ex-vivo. The effectiveness of them in the enhancement of skin penetration was examined by conventional tape stripping method and confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS). Fluorescein sodium salt (Fluo-Na) and procaine HCl were respectively used as model drugs. The drug delivery performances were compared in the aspects of penetration amount and depth. Based on the results from both analyses, all investigated emulsifiers have the ability to enhance the amount of drug penetration. PEG-20 ethers showed higher ability than PEG-2 oleyl ether (O2) in promoting drug distribution by depth, especially PEG-20 cetyl ether (C20) showed a distinct effect. According to this study, their penetration enhancing performances seem to be linked to their interruption of intercellular lipids, which can be considered as the underlying mechanism for governing the ability of PEGylated emulsifiers as penetration enhancers. Further instrumental comparison highlighted the benefits of using CRS as an alternative in skin penetration analysis.

Risks of organic UV filters: a review of environmental and human health concern studies

Organic UV filters are compounds that absorb UV irradiation by their highly conjugated structure. With the developing consciousness over the last century of the skin damage UV radiation can cause, the demand for organic UV filters has risen, for use not only in sunscreens, but also in other personal care products. The massive production and usage of these organic UV filters has resulted in extensive release into the aquatic environment, and thereby making an important group of emerging contaminants. Considering the widespread occurrence of organic UV filters in not only ambient water, but also sediment, soil and even indoor dust, their threats towards the health of living organisms have been a subject of active investigation. In this review article, we present an overall review of existing knowledge on the risks of organic UV filters from the aspects of both environmental and human health impacts. As for the environment, some organic UV filters are proven to bioaccumulate in various kinds of aquatic organisms, and further to have adverse effects on different kinds of animal models. Toxicological studies including in vivo and in vitro studies are important and effective means to ascertain the effects and mechanisms of organic UV filters on both the ecosystem and humans. Subsequent concerns arise that these compounds will affect human health in the long term. This review concludes by suggesting future lines of research based on the remaining knowledge gaps.

Animal- free skin permeation analysis using mass spectrometry imaging

Here we demonstrate an animal-free skin permeation analytical approach suitable for testing pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, occupational skin hazards and skin allergens. The method aims to replace or significantly reduce existing in-vivo models and improve on already established in-vitro models. This by offering a more sensitive and flexible analytical approach that can replace and/or complement existing methods in the OECD guidelines for skin adsorption (no 427 and no 428) and measure multiple compounds simultaneously in the skin while being able to also trace endogenous effects in cells. We demonstrate this here by studying how active ingredients in sunscreen permeate through left-over human skin, from routine surgery, in a in a Franz-cell permeation model. Two common sunscreens were therefore applied to the human skin and Time of flight secondary ion mass spectrometry (ToF-SIMS) was used to trace the molecules through the skin. We show that that ToF-SIMS imaging can be applied in visualizing the distribution of Avobenzone, Bemotrizinol, Biscotrizole and Ethyl hexyl triazine at subcellular resolution in the skin. The UV-blockers could be visualized at the same time in one single experiment without any probes or antibodies used. The UV-blockers mostly remained in the stratum corneum. However, in certain features of the skin, such as sebaceous glands, the penetration of the UV-blockers was more prominent, and the compounds reached deeper into the epidermis.

Bemotrizinol-Loaded Carnauba Wax-Based Nanostructured Lipid Carriers for Sunscreen: Optimization, Characterization, and In vitro Evaluation

Nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) are aqueous dispersions of nanoparticles formed by solid and liquid lipids. In this study, NLC containing an organic UV filter, bemotrizinol, were developed for sunscreen formulation using carnauba wax and caprylic/capric triglycerides through ultrasonication technique. A Box-Behnken design was used to evaluate the influence of three variables on the particle size with the purpose of choosing the best system for further characterization. The particle size decreased as the surfactant concentration increased, reaching an average size of 122.4 ± 0.3 nm at 30 days of storage. Scanning electron microscopy showed intact and spherical particles. Thermal analysis and Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy suggest that bemotrizinol was incorporated into the NLC. The X-ray diffraction showed a reduction in the crystallinity of the NLC. In vitro analysis indicated an improvement in the photoprotective activity of bemotrizinol when incorporated into NLC. These findings suggest a promising, stable, and biocompatible system.

Preparation, Characterisation, and Topical Delivery of Terbinafine

Terbinafine (TBF) is commonly used in the management of fungal infections of the skin because of its broad spectrum of activity. Currently, formulations containing the free base and salt form are available. However, there is only limited information in the literature about the physicochemical properties of this drug and its uptake by the skin. In this work, we conducted a comprehensive characterisation of TBF, and we also examined its percutaneous absorption in vitro in porcine skin. TBF-free base was synthesised from the hydrochloride salt by a simple proton displacement reaction. Both the free base and salt form were further analysed using Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) and Thermogravimetric Analysis (TGA). Delivery of TBF-free base in excised porcine skin was investigated from the following solvents: Isopropyl myristate (IPM), propylene glycol monolaurate (PGML), Transcutol^® (TC), propylene glycol (PG), polyethylene glycol 200 (PEG 200), oleic acid (OL), ethanol (EtOH), and isopropyl alcohol (IPA). Permeation and mass balance studies confirmed that PG and TC were the most efficacious vehicles, delivering higher amounts of TBF-free base to the skin compared with a commercial gel (p < 0.05). These preliminary results are promising and will inform the development of more complex formulations in future work.

Role of sunscreen formulation and photostability to protect the biomechanical barrier function of skin

The impact of sunscreen formulations on the barrier properties of human skin are often overlooked leading to formulations with components whose effects on barrier mechanical integrity are poorly understood. The aim of this study is to demonstrate the relevance of carrier selection and sunscreen photostability when designing sunscreen formulations to protect the biomechanical barrier properties of human stratum corneum (SC) from solar ultraviolet (UV) damage. Biomechanical properties of SC samples were assayed after accelerated UVB damage through measurements of the SC's mechanical stress profile and corneocyte cohesion. A narrowband UVB (305-315 nm) lamp was used to expose SC samples to 5, 30, 125, and 265 J cm-2 in order to magnify damage to the mechanical properties of the tissue and characterize the UV degradation dose response such that effects from smaller UV dosages can be extrapolated. Stresses in the SC decreased when treated with sunscreen components, highlighting their effect on the skin prior to UV exposure. Stresses increased with UVB exposure and in specimens treated with different sunscreens stresses varied dramatically at high UVB dosages. Specimens treated with sunscreen components without UVB exposure exhibited altered corneocyte cohesion. Both sunscreens studied prevented alteration of corneocyte cohesion by low UVB dosages, but differences in protection were observed at higher UVB dosages indicating UV degradation of one sunscreen. These results indicate the protection of individual sunscreen components vary over a range of UVB dosages, and components can even cause alteration of the biomechanical barrier properties of human SC before UV exposure. Therefore, detailed characterization of sunscreen formulation components is required to design robust protection from UV damage.

Use of LC-MS analysis to elucidate by-products of niacinamide transformation following in vitro skin permeation studies

OBJECTIVE

To explore and elucidate the formation of niacinamide (NIA) by-products during in vitro skin permeation studies using liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (LC-MS) analysis.

METHODS

Porcine skin permeation studies of various NIA formulations were conducted using Franz diffusion cells for a period of 24 hours. NIA by-products were identified by LC, extracted and further qualitatively analysed by LC-MS.

RESULTS

Analysis and characterisation of NIA by-products using LC-MS resulted in the identification of different molecular entities with similar structures to NIA. The most prevalent molecular specie in this study was 1,4,5,6-tetrahydropyridine-3-carboxamide with the highest ion abundance. Other structural NIA analogues were also identified and reported, namely piperidine-3-carboxamide and 1,4-dihydropyridine-3-carboxamide. None of these NIA derivatives were detected in stability studies of NIA in the medium used as the receptor phase, phosphate buffered saline (PBS), that had not been in contact with skin.

CONCLUSION

The comparatively low recovery of NIA following in vitro mass-balance and permeation studies for pseudo-finite and finite dosing of the active compared with infinite dosing is attributed to chemical derivatisation of the molecule during skin penetration. These findings reported here will allow the development of more sensitive methods to ensure full mass balance recovery of NIA following topical application of NIA preparations.

Chemical Enhancer: A Simplistic Way to Modulate Barrier Function of the Stratum Corneum

Human skin could be a prime target to deliver drugs into the human body as it is the largest organ of human body. However, the main challenge of delivering drug into the skin is the stratum corneum (SC), the outer layer of epidermis, which performs the main barrier function of the skin. Scientists have developed several techniques to overcome the barrier properties of the skin, which include other physical and chemical techniques. The most common and convenient technique is to use special formulation additives (chemical enhancers, CEs) which either drags the drug molecule along with it or make changes in the SC structure, thereby allowing the drug molecule to penetrate in to the SC. The main focus is to deliver drugs in the certain layers of the skin (for topical delivery) or ensuring proper percutaneous absorption (for transdermal delivery). However, skin drug delivery is still very challenging as different CEs act in different ways on the skin and they have different types of interaction with different drugs. Therefore, proper understanding on the mechanism of action of CE is mandatory. In this article, the effect of several CEs on skin has been reviewed based on the published articles. The main aim is to compile the recent knowledge on skin-CE interaction in order to design a topical and transdermal formulation efficiently. A properly designed formulation would help the drug either to deposit into the target layer or to cross the barrier membrane to reach the systemic circulation.

Evaluation of Transdermal Drug Permeation as Modulated by Lipoderm and Pluronic Lecithin Organogel

The transdermal delivery of 2 fluorescent probes with similar molecular weight but different lipophilicity, into and through the skin from 2 commercially available transdermal bases, pluronic lecithin organogel, and Lipoderm^® has been evaluated. First, in vitro penetration of fluorescein sodium and fluorescein (free acid) through porcine skin was evaluated. Retention and depth distribution profiles in skin were obtained by tape stripping and then followed by optical sectioning using multiphoton microscopy. The results showed that Lipoderm^® led to an enhanced penetration of the hydrophilic compound, fluorescein sodium. For the lipophilic compound fluorescein (free acid), Lipoderm^® performed similar to pluronic lecithin organogel base, where minimal drug was detected in either receptor phase. The skin retention and depth distribution results also showed that the hydrophilic fluorescein sodium had high skin retention with Lipoderm^®, whereas fluorescein (free acid) had very low penetration and retention with increasing skin depth. Moreover, optical sectioning by multiphoton microscopy revealed an uneven distribution of probes across the skin in the x-y plane for both transdermal bases. This work showed that a hydrophilic compound has significantly increased skin penetration and retention when formulated with Lipoderm^®, and the skin retention of the probe was the main determinant of its skin flux.

Radical-Scavenging Activity of a Sunscreen Enriched by Antioxidants Providing Protection in the Whole Solar Spectral Range

BACKGROUND/AIM

The main reason for extrinsic skin aging is the negative action of free radicals. The formation of free radicals in the skin has been associated with ultraviolet (UV) exposure and also to visible (VIS) and near-infrared (NIR) irradiations. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the efficacy of a sunscreen in the whole solar range.

METHODS

The radical-scavenging activity of a sunscreen in the UV, VIS, and NIR ranges was evaluated using electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy. Ex vivo penetration profiles were determined using confocal Raman microscopy on porcine ear skin at different time points after application.

RESULTS

Compared to the untreated skin, the sunscreen decreased the skin radical formation in the UV and VIS regions. Additional protection in the VIS and NIR ranges was observed for the sunscreen containing antioxidants (AO). The penetration depth of the cream was less than 11.2 ± 3.0 µm for all time points.

CONCLUSION

A sunscreen containing AO improved the photoprotection in the VIS and NIR ranges. The sunscreen was retained in the stratum corneum. Therefore, these results show the possibility of the development of effective and safer sunscreen products.

In vitro permeation and disposition of niacinamide in silicone and porcine skin of skin barrier-mimetic formulations

Niacinamide (NIA) is an amide form of vitamin B3 which is used in cosmetic formulations to improve various skin conditions and it has also been shown to increase stratum corneum thickness following repeated application. In this study, three doses (5, 20 and 50μL per cm²) of two NIA containing oil-in-water skin barrier-mimetic formulations were evaluated in silicone membrane and porcine ear skin and compared with a commercial control formulation. Permeation studies were conducted over 24h in Franz cells and at the end of the experiment membranes were washed and niacinamide was extracted. For the three doses, retention or deposition of NIA was generally higher in porcine skin compared with silicone membrane, consistent with the hydrophilic nature of the active. Despite the control containing a higher amount of active, comparable amounts of NIA were deposited in skin for all formulations for all doses; total skin absorption values (permeation and retention) of NIA were also comparable across all formulations. For infinite (50μL) and finite (5μL) doses the absolute permeation of NIA from the control formulation was significantly higher in porcine skin compared with both test formulations. This likely reflects differences in formulation components and/or presence of skin penetration enhancers in the formulations. Higher permeation for the 50 and 20μL dose was also evident in porcine skin compared with silicone membrane but the opposite is the case for the finite dose. The findings point to the critical importance of dose and occlusion when evaluating topical formulations in vitro and also the likelihood of exaggerated effects of excipients on permeation at infinite and pseudo-finite dose applications.