In vitro permeation and disposition of niacinamide in silicone and porcine skin of skin barrier-mimetic formulations

Solvent and Crystallization Effects on the Dermal Absorption of Hydrophilic and Lipophilic Compounds

This study probes the mechanisms by which volatile solvents (water, ethanol) and a nonionic surfactant (Triton X-100) influence the skin permeation of dissolved solutes following deposition of small doses onto unoccluded human skin. A secondary objective was to sharpen guidelines for the use of these and other simple solvent systems for dermal safety testing of cosmetic ingredients at finite doses. Four solutes were studied - niacinamide, caffeine, testosterone and geraniol - at doses close to that estimated to saturate the upper layers of the stratum corneum. Methods included tensiometry, visualization of spreading on skin, polarized light microscopy and in vitro permeation testing using radiolabeled solutes. Ethanol, aqueous ethanol and dilute aqueous Triton solutions all yielded surface tensions below 36 mN/m, allowing them to spread easily on the skin, unlike water (72.4 mN/m) which did not spread. Deposition onto skin of niacinamide (32 μg·cm-2) or caffeine (3.2 μg·cm-2) from water and ethanol led to crystalline deposits on the skin surface, whereas the same amounts applied from aqueous ethanol and 2 % Triton did not. Skin permeation of these compounds was inversely correlated to the extent of crystallization. A separate study with caffeine showed the absence of a dose-related skin permeability increase with Triton. Permeation of testosterone (8.2 μg·cm-2) was modestly increased when dosed from aqueous ethanol versus ethanol. Permeation of geraniol (2.9 μg·cm-2) followed the order aqueous ethanol > water ∼ 2 % Triton >> ethanol and was inversely correlated with evaporative loss. We conclude that, under the conditions tested, aqueous ethanol and Triton serve primarily as deposition aids and do not substantially disrupt stratum corneum lipids. Implications for the design of in vitro skin permeability tests are discussed.

Mechanistic Insights into the Multiple Functions of Niacinamide: Therapeutic Implications and Cosmeceutical Applications in Functional Skincare Products

Niacinamide (or nicotinamide) is a small-molecule hydrosoluble vitamin with essential metabolic functions in mammalian cells. Niacinamide has become a key functional ingredient in diverse skincare products and cosmetics. This vitamin plays a pivotal role in NAD+ synthesis, notably contributing to redox reactions and energy production in cutaneous cells. Via diversified biochemical mechanisms, niacinamide is also known to influence human DNA repair and cellular stress responses. Based on decades of safe use in cosmetics, niacinamide recently gained widespread popularity as an active ingredient which aligns with the "Kligman standards" in skincare. From a therapeutic standpoint, the intrinsic properties of niacinamide may be applied to managing acne vulgaris, melasma, and psoriasis. From a cosmeceutical standpoint, niacinamide has been widely leveraged as a multipurpose antiaging ingredient. Therein, it was shown to significantly reduce cutaneous oxidative stress, inflammation, and pigmentation. Overall, through multimodal mechanisms, niacinamide may be considered to partially prevent and/or reverse several biophysical changes associated with skin aging. The present narrative review provides multifactorial insights into the mechanisms of niacinamide's therapeutic and cosmeceutical functions. The ingredient's evolving role in skincare was critically appraised, with a strong focus on the biochemical mechanisms at play. Finally, novel indications and potential applications of niacinamide in dermal fillers and alternative injectable formulations were prospectively explored.

A potential bilayer skin substitute based on electrospun silk-elastin-like protein nanofiber membrane covered with bacterial cellulose

Skin substitutes are designed to promote wound healing by replacing extracellular matrix. Silk-elastin-like protein is a renewable extracellular matrix-like material that integrated the advantages of silk and elastin-like protein. In this study, electrospun silk-elastin-like protein (SELP) nanofiber membrane covered with bacterial cellulose (BC) was created as a potential skin substitute to mimic gradient structure of epidermis and dermis of skin. The two layers were glued together using adhesive SELP containing 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (DOPA) converted from tyrosine by tyrosinase. Skin topical drugs commonly used in clinical practice can penetrate through the SELP/BC barrier, and the rate of penetration is proportional to drug concentration. BC with dense fibrous structure can act as a barrier to preserve the inner SELP layer and prevent bacterial invasion, with a blocking permeation efficiency over 99% against four species of bacteria. Cell experiments demonstrated that the reticular fibers of SELP could provide an appropriate growth environment for skin cells proliferation and adhesion, which is considered to promote tissue repair and regeneration. The promising results support this strategy to fabricate a silk-elastin-like protein-based biomaterial for skin substitutes in the clinical treatment of full skin injuries and ulcers.

In Vitro Human Skin Absorption of Solvent-deposited Solids: Niacinamide and Methyl Nicotinate

A quantitative understanding of the dose dependence of topical delivery is important to cosmetic and dermatological product development and to risk assessment for hazardous chemicals contacting the skin. Despite considerable research, predictive capability in this area remains limited. To this end we conducted an experimental skin absorption study of two closely related skin care agents, niacinamide (nicotinamide, NA) and methyl nicotinate (MN), and analyzed the results quantitatively using a transient diffusion model described separately (Yu et al. submitted for publication). Radiolabeled test compounds were solvent-deposited onto ex vivo human skin mounted in Franz diffusion cells over a dose range exceeding 4.5 orders of magnitude, and permeation was measured over a 1-4 day period. At low doses, the permeation rate of NA was approximately 60-fold lower than that of its lower melting, more lipophilic analog, MN; at high doses an even greater difference was observed. The difference can be qualitatively explained based on higher lipid solubility and lower crystallinity of MN relative to NA. Dissolution-limited mass transfer through a lipid layer at the SC surface is suggested. Relevance of the results to practical skin care formulations was confirmed by a parallel study of NA in an o/w emulsion.

An Investigation of the Influence of PEG 400 and PEG-6-Caprylic/Capric Glycerides on Dermal Delivery of Niacinamide

Polyethylene glycols (PEGs) and PEG derivatives are used in a range of cosmetic and pharmaceutical products. However, few studies have investigated the influence of PEGs and their related derivatives on skin permeation, especially when combined with other solvents. Previously, we reported niacinamide (NIA) skin permeation from a range of neat solvents including propylene glycol (PG), Transcutol^® P (TC), dimethyl isosorbide (DMI), PEG 400 and PEG 600. In the present work, binary and ternary systems composed of PEGs or PEG derivatives combined with other solvents were investigated for skin delivery of NIA. In vitro finite dose studies were conducted (5 μL/cm²) in porcine skin over 24 h. Higher skin permeation of NIA was observed for all vehicles compared to PEG 400. However, overall permeation for the binary and ternary systems was comparatively low compared with results for PG, TC and DMI. Interestingly, values for percentage skin retention of NIA for PEG 400:DMI and PEG 400:TC were significantly higher than values for DMI, TC and PG (p < 0.05). The findings suggest that PEG 400 may be a useful component of formulations for the delivery of actives to the skin rather than through the skin. Future studies will expand the range of vehicles investigated and also look at skin absorption and residence time of PEG 400 compared to other solvents.

Franz Cell Diffusion Testing and Quantitative Confocal Raman Spectroscopy: In Vitro-In Vivo Correlation

Previously, we reported the use of Confocal Raman Spectroscopy (CRS) to investigate the topical delivery of actives and excipients. We have also correlated the results from CRS with findings from in vitro diffusion studies in human skin. However, until now CRS has only been used as a semi-quantitative method of determining the skin uptake of molecules, with results expressed as arbitrary units of signal intensity. Clearly, this posed challenges for using CRS to determine skin delivery and to assess the drug bioavailability and bioequivalence of topical formulations. In the present work, the permeation of niacinamide (NIA) from various formulations in human skin was studied in vitro using conventional Franz cells and in vivo using a quantitative CRS method under finite dose conditions. The selection of NIA was based on its wide use in pharmaceutical and personal care formulations for many years. This is the first fully quantitative study to compare these methods. The vehicles investigated were neat Transcutol^® P (TC); binary combinations of propylene glycol (PG) with propylene glycol monolaurate (PGML); and ternary mixtures of PG, PGML, and isopropyl myristate (IPM). These solvents were selected to encompass a range of physicochemical properties. NIA permeation was evident from all formulations in vitro and in vivo. The vehicles PG:PGML and PG:PGML:IPM delivered comparable amounts across the skin in vitro at 24 h (100.3–106.7 µg/cm², p > 0.05) that were significantly higher compared with those of TC (1.3 µg/cm², p < 0.05). An excellent in vitro in vivo correlation (R² = 0.98) was found following the linear regression of the cumulative amounts of NIA permeated in vitro and the amounts of NIA at 2 μm in the skin measured with CRS. A very good correlation between the cumulative permeation of NIA in vitro and the total amount of NIA that penetrated the stratum corneum (SC) per unit of surface area (μg/cm²) in vivo was also observed, with a Pearson correlation coefficient (R²) of 0.94. The findings support the use of CRS for the quantitative measurement of actives delivered to the skin in vivo. Future studies will focus on exploring the reproducibility and reliability of the method by investigating the delivery of different actives from a wider range of vehicles. Additionally, quantitative CRS will be evaluated further as a method for assessing the bioequivalence of topical formulations.

In Situ Gel Formation in Microporated Skin for Enhanced Topical Delivery of Niacinamide

Although used widely in cosmetic formulations, topical delivery of niacinamide (LogP = -0.35) is unfavorable by conventional means. Poly(lactide-co-glycolide) (PLGA) formulations, can undergo a sol-gel transition triggered by solvent exchange, entrapping molecules and sustaining their release. The current study aims to exploit the ability of PLGA to gel in situ and enhance the topical delivery of niacinamide in microporated skin. In vitro drug permeation studies were performed using vertical Franz diffusion cells. Microporation was performed using Dr. Pen^TM Ultima A6, where pre-treatment with a 1 mm needle-length for 10 s and a 0.5 mm needle-length for 5 s, both at 13,000 insertions/min were compared. The effect of different grades of PLGA, EXPANSORB^® DLG 50-2A ("low" molecular weight), and EXPANSORB^® DLG 50-8A ("high" molecular weight) on topical delivery was also determined. Formulations containing PLGA resulted in successful gelation in situ on application over microporated skin. A significantly higher amount of drug was found in the skin with the 0.5 mm treatment for 5 s (892 ± 36 µg/cm²) than with 1 mm for 10 s (167 ± 16 µg/cm²). Hence, the different grades of PLGA were evaluated with 0.5 mm, 5 s treatment, and a significantly larger amount was seen in skin with the higher rather than the lower molecular weight polymer (172 ± 53 µg/cm²).

Characterization and topical delivery of phenylethyl resorcinol

OBJECTIVE

Phenylethyl resorcinol (PR) has been used widely in the personal care industry as a novel skin lightening ingredient. Surprisingly, there is only limited information describing the physicochemical properties of this active. Therefore, the primary objective of this study was to perform a comprehensive characterization of PR. A secondary objective was to investigate the delivery of this molecule to mammalian skin.

METHODS

Phenylethyl resorcinol was characterized using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) and nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR). A new high-performance liquid chromatographic (HPLC) method for analysis of PR was developed and validated. The log P (octanol water partition coefficient), value, solubility and short-term stability of PR in a series of vehicles were also determined using HPLC. The evaporation of the selected vehicles was examined using dynamic vapour sorption (DVS). The permeation profiles of PR were investigated under finite dose conditions in porcine and human skin.

RESULTS

The melting point of PR was determined to be 79.13 °C and the measured log P (octanol water partition coefficient) at 21 °C was 3.35 ± 0.03. The linearity of the HPLC analytical method was confirmed with an r² value of 0.99. Accuracy of the method was evaluated by average recovery rates at three tested concentrations, and the values ranged from 99 to 106%. The limit of detection (LOD) and limit of quantification (LOQ) were 0.19 and 0.57 μg mL^-1 , respectively. The solubility of PR in PG, DMI, glycerol was within the range of 367 to 877 mg mL^-1 . The stability of PR in tested solvents was also confirmed by the 72 h stability studies. From the DVS studies, 70-125% of applied formulations were recovered at 24 h. The permeation through porcine skin at 24 h ranged from 4 to 13 μg cm^-2 , while the corresponding amounts of PR delivered through human skin were 2 to 10 μg cm^-2 .

CONCLUSION

The physicochemical properties of PR confirm it is suitable for dermal delivery. In this study, propylene glycol was the most promising vehicle for PR delivery to human skin. Future work will expand the range of vehicles studied and explore the percutaneous absorption from more complex formulations.

Topical Delivery of Niacinamide: Influence of Binary and Ternary Solvent Systems

Niacinamide (NIA) is the amide form of vitamin B3 and has been widely used in pharmaceutical and personal care formulations. Previously, we reported a comparative study of NIA permeation from neat solvents using the Skin Parallel Artificial Membrane Permeability Assay (PAMPA) and mammalian skin. A good correlation between NIA permeation in the different models was found. In the present work, ten binary and ternary systems were evaluated for their ability to promote NIA delivery in the Skin PAMPA model, porcine skin and human epidermis. Penetration enhancement was evident for binary systems composed of propylene glycol and fatty acids in human skin studies. However, propylene glycol and oleic acid did not promote enhancement of NIA compared with other systems in the Skin PAMPA model. A good correlation was obtained for permeation data from Skin PAMPA and porcine skin. However, data from the Skin PAMPA model and from human skin could only be correlated when the PG-fatty acid systems were excluded. These findings add to our knowledge of the potential applications of Skin PAMPA for screening dermal/transdermal preparations.

3D-printed Franz type diffusion cells

OBJECTIVE

Franz cells are routinely used to measure in vitro skin permeation of actives and must be inert to the permeant under study. The aim of the present work was to develop and manufacture transparent Franz-type diffusion cells using 3D printing. Printouts were then tested using a range of model active compounds. The study also aims to identify the critical 3D-printing parameters necessary for the process, including object design, choice of printing resin, printout curing and post-curing settings and introduction of model coatings.

METHODS

Transparent Franz cells were constructed using an online computer aided design program and reproduced with different stereolithography 3D printers. The two acrylate-based resins used for the fabrication process were a commercially available product and a polymer synthesised in-house. Comparative studies between glass and 3D-printed Franz cells were conducted with selected model actives: terbinafine hydrochloride (TBF), niacinamide (NIA), diclofenac free acid (DFA) and n-methyl paraben (MPB). In preliminary studies, MPB showed the lowest recovery when exposed to the receptor compartment of 3D printed cells. Consequently, in vitro permeation studies were carried out using only MPB with polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) membrane.

RESULTS

A decrease in the amounts of selected compounds was observed for transparent 3D-printed Franz cells compared to glass cells. MPB showed the lowest recovery (53.8 ± 13.1%) when compared with NIA (74.9 ± 4.0%), TBF (81.5 ± 12.0%) and DFA (90.2 ± 12.9%) after 72 h. Permeation studies conducted using 3D-printed transparent cells with PDMS membrane also showed a decrease in MPB recovery of 51.4 ± 3.7% for the commercial resin and 94.4 ± 3.5% for the polymer synthesised in-house, when compared to glass cells. Although hydrophobic coatings were subsequently applied to the 3D-printed cells, the same reduction in MPB concentration was observed in the receptor solution.

CONCLUSION

Transparent Franz cells were successfully prepared using 3D printing and were observed to be robust and leak-proof. There are few resins currently available for preparation of transparent materials and incompatibilities between the actives investigated and the 3D-printed cells were evident. Hydrophobic coatings applied as barriers to the printed materials did not prevent these interactions.

Tacrolimus-loaded lecithin-based nanostructured lipid carrier and nanoemulsion with propylene glycol monocaprylate as a liquid lipid: Formulation characterization and assessment of dermal delivery compared to referent ointment

Nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) and nanoemulsions (NE) are colloid carriers which could improve dermal delivery of tacrolimus. The aims of this study were to evaluate effects of different formulation and process parameters on physicochemical characteristics and stability of lecithin-based NLC with glyceryl palmitostearate as solid and propylene glycol monocaprylate as liquid lipid and to compare the influence of different inner structure of tacrolimus-loaded NLC and corresponding NE on physicochemical characteristics, stability, entrapment efficiency, in vitro drug release and overall skin performance. Solid/liquid lipid ratio, total amount of lipids, homogenization pressure and cooling after the preparation were identified as critical variables in NLC development. Moreover, tacrolimus-loaded NLC emerged as more stabile carrier than NE. Differential stripping performed on porcine ear skin revealed significantly higher tacrolimus amount in stratum corneum from nanocarriers compared to referent ointment (Protopic®). Similarly the highest amount of tacrolimus in hair follicles was obtained using NLC (268.54 ± 92.38 ng/cm²), followed by NE (128.17 ± 48.87 ng/cm²) and Protopic® (77.61 ± 43.25 ng/cm²). Contrary, the highest permeation rate through full-thickness porcine ear skin was observed for Protopic®, implying that the selection of experimental setup is critical for reliable skin performance assessment. Overall, developed NLC could be suggested as promising carrier in a form of lotion for tacrolimus dermal delivery.

Use of LC-MS analysis to elucidate by-products of niacinamide transformation following in vitro skin permeation studies

OBJECTIVE

To explore and elucidate the formation of niacinamide (NIA) by-products during in vitro skin permeation studies using liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (LC-MS) analysis.

METHODS

Porcine skin permeation studies of various NIA formulations were conducted using Franz diffusion cells for a period of 24 hours. NIA by-products were identified by LC, extracted and further qualitatively analysed by LC-MS.

RESULTS

Analysis and characterisation of NIA by-products using LC-MS resulted in the identification of different molecular entities with similar structures to NIA. The most prevalent molecular specie in this study was 1,4,5,6-tetrahydropyridine-3-carboxamide with the highest ion abundance. Other structural NIA analogues were also identified and reported, namely piperidine-3-carboxamide and 1,4-dihydropyridine-3-carboxamide. None of these NIA derivatives were detected in stability studies of NIA in the medium used as the receptor phase, phosphate buffered saline (PBS), that had not been in contact with skin.

CONCLUSION

The comparatively low recovery of NIA following in vitro mass-balance and permeation studies for pseudo-finite and finite dosing of the active compared with infinite dosing is attributed to chemical derivatisation of the molecule during skin penetration. These findings reported here will allow the development of more sensitive methods to ensure full mass balance recovery of NIA following topical application of NIA preparations.