Neutrophil elastase contributes to extracellular matrix damage induced by chronic low-dose UV irradiation in a hairless mouse photoaging model

Inhibiting Neutrophil Extracellular Traps Protects against Ultraviolet B-Induced Skin Damage: Effects of Hochu-ekki-to and DNase I

UV-B radiation induces sunburn, and neutrophils are pivotal in this inflammation. In this study, we examined the potential involvement of neutrophil extracellular traps (NETs) in ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced skin inflammation, correlating the skin inflammation-mitigating effects of Hochu-ekki-to on UV-B irradiation and NETs. To elucidate NET distribution in the dorsal skin, male ICR mice, exposed to UVB irradiation, were immunohistologically analyzed to detect citrullinated histone H3 (citH3) and peptidylarginine deiminase 4 (PAD4). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) production in the bloodstream was analyzed. To establish the involvement of NET-released DNA in this inflammatory response, mice were UV-B irradiated following the intraperitoneal administration of DNase I. In vitro experiments were performed to scrutinize the impact of Hochu-ekki-to on A23187-induced NETs in neutrophil-like HL-60 cells. UV-B irradiation induced dorsal skin inflammation, coinciding with a significant increase in citH3 and PAD4 expression. Administration of DNase I attenuated UV-B-induced skin inflammation, whereas Hochu-ekki-to administration considerably suppressed the inflammation, correlating with diminished levels of citH3 and PAD4 in the dorsal skin. UV-B irradiation conspicuously augmented ROS and hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) production in the blood. Hochu-ekki-to significantly inhibited ROS and H2O2 generation. In vitro experiments demonstrated that Hochu-ekki-to notably inhibited A23187-induced NETs in differentiated neutrophil-like cells. Hence, NETs have been implicated in UV-B-induced skin inflammation, and their inhibition reduces cutaneous inflammation. Additionally, Hochu-ekki-to mitigated skin inflammation by impeding neutrophil infiltration and NETs in the dorsal skin of mice.

Nonclinical evaluation of a Vitis vinifera extract towards a novel antiaging cosmetic ingredient

BACKGROUND

Skin aging is regulated by multiple physiological processes, such as oxidative stress. Natural products have been considered as a promising source of antioxidant compounds. As a result, few innovative products on the market based on natural products tackle additional underlying mechanisms of skin aging.

AIMS

The present work reports the nonclinical evaluation of a novel extract from the skin of V. vinifera fruits (codified as ACH37 extract), with the aim of supporting its use as an antiaging cosmetic ingredient candidate in clinical trials.

METHODS

We employed enzymatic, phenotypic, and gene expression assays, both in vitro and ex vivo, to investigate the action of the ACH37 extract in different biological processes that could be related to skin aging mechanisms.

RESULTS

The ACH37 extract was able to scavenge reactive oxygen species (DPPH, O2 - ), prevent inflammation (LPS- and UV-induced COX-2, IL-1β, and IL-8 expression), modulate extracellular matrix remodeling (inhibiting elastase, MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-12, as well as associated expression), increase telomere length, telomerase activity, and reverse the UV-induced suppression of genes involved in skin protection. In addition, the ACH37 extract permeated human skin explants and presented antioxidant efficacy ex vivo.

CONCLUSION

The results indicated that the ACH37 extract acts on multiple targets commonly related to skin aging, being a promising antiaging active ingredient candidate to be further investigated in clinical trials.

Skincare potential of a sustainable postbiotic extract produced through sugarcane straw fermentation by Saccharomyces cerevisiae

Postbiotics are defined as a "preparation of inanimate microorganisms and/or their components that confers a health benefit on the host." They can be produced by fermentation, using culture media with glucose (carbon source), and lactic acid bacteria of the genus Lactobacillus, and/or yeast, mainly Saccharomyces cerevisiae as fermentative microorganisms. Postbiotics comprise different metabolites, and have important biological properties (antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, etc.), thus their cosmetic application should be considered. During this work, the postbiotics production was carried out by fermentation with sugarcane straw, as a source of carbon and phenolic compounds, and as a sustainable process to obtain bioactive extracts. For the production of postbiotics, a saccharification process was carried out with cellulase at 55°C for 24 h. Fermentation was performed sequentially after saccharification at 30°C, for 72 h, using S. cerevisiae. The cells-free extract was characterized regarding its composition, antioxidant activity, and skincare potential. Its use was safe at concentrations below ~20 mg mL-1 (extract's dry weight in deionized water) for keratinocytes and ~ 7.5 mg mL-1 for fibroblasts. It showed antioxidant activity, with ABTS IC50 of 1.88 mg mL-1 , and inhibited elastase and tyrosinase activities by 83.4% and 42.4%, respectively, at the maximum concentration tested (20 mg mL-1 ). In addition, it promoted the production of cytokeratin 14, and demonstrated anti-inflammatory activity at a concentration of 10 mg mL-1 . In the skin microbiota of human volunteers, the extract inhibited Cutibacterium acnes and the Malassezia genus. Shortly, postbiotics were successfully produced using sugarcane straw, and showed bioactive properties that potentiate their use in cosmetic/skincare products.

Rosmarinus officinalis L. hexane extract: phytochemical analysis, nanoencapsulation, and in silico, in vitro, and in vivo anti-photoaging potential evaluation

A shift towards natural anti-aging ingredients has spurred the research to valorize traditionally used plants. In this context, Rosmarinus officinalis L. was evaluated for its photoprotective, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-wrinkling properties. GC/MS and LC-ESI-HRMS based phytochemical profiling of rosemary leaves hexane extract resulted in the identification of 47 and 31 compounds, respectively and revealed rich content in triterpenoids, monoterpenoids and phenolic diterpenes. In vitro assays confirmed the antioxidant, anti-aging, and wound healing potential of rosemary extract along with a good safety profile, encouraging further development. A systematic molecular modelling study was conducted to elucidate the mechanistic background of rosemary anti-aging properties through the inhibitory effects of its major constituents against key anti-aging targets viz. elastase, collagenase, and hyaluronidase. Development of rosemary extract lipid nanocapsules-based mucoadhesive gels was performed to improve skin contact, permeation, and bioavailability prior to in vivo testing. The developed formulae demonstrated small particle size (56.55–66.13 nm), homogenous distribution (PDI of 0.207–0.249), and negatively charged Zeta potential (− 13.4 to − 15.6). In UVB-irradiated rat model, topical rosemary hexane extract-loaded lipid nanocapsules-based gel provided photoprotection, restored the antioxidant biochemical state, improved epidermal and dermal histological features, and decreased the level of inflammatory and wrinkling markers. The use of rosemary hexane extract in anti-aging and photoprotective cosmeceuticals represents a safe, efficient, and cost-effective approach.

Labdanum Resin from Cistus ladanifer L.: A Natural and Sustainable Ingredient for Skin Care Cosmetics with Relevant Cosmeceutical Bioactivities

Labdanum resin from Cistus ladanifer L. (Cistaceae) is an abundant natural resource in the Iberian Peninsula worth being explored in a sustainable manner. It is already used in the cosmetic industry; mainly by the fragrances/perfumery sector. However, given the highest market share and traditional uses, labdanum resin also has the potential to be used and valued as a cosmetic ingredient for skincare. Aiming to evaluate this potential, labdanum methanolic absolute and fractions purified by column chromatography were characterized by UPLC-DAD-ESI-MS and then evaluated for UV-protection, antioxidant, anti-elastase, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial activities. Labdanum absolute represented ~70% of the resin; diterpenoid and flavonoid fractions represented ~75% and 15% of the absolute, respectively. Labdane-type diterpenoids and methylated flavonoids were the main compounds in labdanum absolute and in diterpenoid and flavonoid fractions, respectively. Labdanum absolute showed a spectrophotometric sun protection factor (SPF) near 5, which is mainly due to flavonoids, as the flavonoids’ SPF was 13. Low antioxidant activity was observed, with ABTS radical scavenging being the most significant (0.142 ± 0.017, 0.379 ± 0.039 and 0.010 ± 0.003 mgTE/mgExt, for the absolute and flavonoid and terpene fractions, respectively). Anti-aging and anti-inflammatory activity are reported here for the first time, by the inhibition of elastase activity (22% and 13%, by absolute and flavonoid extract at 1 mg/mL), and by the inhibition of nitric oxide production in LPS-induced RAW 264.7 cells (84% to 98%, at 15 µg/mL extracts, flavonoid fraction the most active), respectively. Antimicrobial activity, against relevant skin and cosmetic product microorganisms, Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Candida albicans, and Escherichia coli, revealed that only S. aureus was susceptible to labdanum absolute (MIC: 1.2 mg/mL) and its fractions (MIC: <0.3 mg/mL). In conclusion, labdanum resin showed potential to be used in sunscreen cosmetics, anti-inflammatory skincare cosmeceuticals or medicines but has low potential as a cosmetic product preservative given the low antioxidant and low-spectrum antimicrobial activities.

The Prospects of Swietenia macrophylla King in Skin Care

The importance of cosmetics in our lives is immeasurable. Covering items from daily personal hygienic products to skincare, it has become essential to consumers that the items that they use are safe and effective. Since natural products are from natural sources, and therefore considered “natural” and “green” in the public’s eyes, the rise in demand for such products is not surprising. Even so, factoring in the need to remain on trend and innovative, cosmetic companies are on a constant search for new ingredients and inventive new formulations. Based on numerous literature, the seed of Swietenia macrophylla has been shown to possess several potential “cosmetic-worthy” bioproperties, such as skin whitening, photoprotective, antioxidant, antimicrobial, etc. These properties are vital in the cosmetic business, as they ultimately contribute to the “ageless” beauty that many consumers yearn for. Therefore, with further refinement and research, these active phytocompounds may be a great contribution to the cosmetic field in the near future.

Theragra chalcogramma Hydrolysates, Rich in Gly-Leu-Pro-Ser-Tyr-Thr, Exerts Anti-Photoaging Potential via Targeting MAPK and NF-κB Pathways in SD Rats

Previous studies have revealed that excessive exposure to UV irradiation is the main cause of skin photoaging and the signaling pathways of MAPK and NF-κB are involved in this progression. The present study aims to investigate the anti-photoaging effects of low molecular weight hydrolysates from Theragra chalcogramma (TCH) and to clarify the underlying mechanism. The degradation of mechanical barrier functions in photoaged skin was substantially ameliorated after TCH administration; meanwhile, TCH significantly elevated the antioxidant capacity and suppressed the over-production of inflammatory cytokine IL-1β. Moreover, the histopathological deteriorations such as epidermal hyperplasia and dermal loss were significantly alleviated, along with the increase in procollagen type I content and decrease in MMP-1 activity (p < 0.05). Furthermore, TCH effectively blocked the MAPK and NF-κB signaling pathways through inhibition of the phosphorylation of p38, JNK, ERK, iκB, and p65 proteins. Collectively, these data indicate that TCH has potential as a novel ingredient for the development of anti-photoaging foods.

Theragra chalcogramma Hydrolysate, Rich in Gly-Leu-Pro-Ser-Tyr-Thr, Alleviates Photoaging via Modulating Deposition of Collagen Fibers and Restoration of Extracellular Components Matrix in SD Rats

Excessive exposure of the skin to ultraviolet irradiation induces skin photoaging, which seriously deteriorates the barrier functions of skin tissue, and even causes skin damages and diseases. Recently, dietary supplements from marine sources have been found to be useful in modulating skin functions and can be used to alleviate photoaging. Herein, the low-molecular-weight hydrolysates with a photoaging-protection effect were prepared by enzymatic hydrolysis from Theragra chalcogramma (TCH), and the potential mechanism were subsequently explored. The results revealed that TCH desirably improved the barrier functions of photoaged skin and stimulated the deposition of ECM components Col I, Hyp, and HA in the dermal layer. Histologically, TCH reduced the epidermal hyperplasia and restored the impaired architectures in a dose-dependent manner. Meanwhile, the activity of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) in photoaging skin was inhibited, and the expression levels of elastin and fibrillin-1 were elevated accordingly after TCH administration, and the significant improvements were observed at high-dose level (p < 0.05). Taken together, the efficacy of TCH against skin photoaging is highly associated with the regulation on ECM metabolism and the repairing of damaged mechanical structure.

Attenuation of UV-induced skin photoaging in rats by walnut protein hydrolysates is linked to the modulation of MAPK/AP-1 and TGF-β/Smad signaling pathways

There is growing evidence that prevention of skin photoaging by oral administration of food-derived proteins hydrolysates is intricately linked to its alleviation against oxidative stress through modulation of the signaling pathway. Previously, walnut protein hydrolysates (WPHs) were prepared by enzymatic hydrolysis by our group and exhibited excellent anti-photoaging effect through regulation of extracellular matrix metabolism and the NF-κB signaling pathway. However, its response to oxidative stress and cascade mechanism remain unknown. In the present study, Sprague-Dawley rats were exposed periodically to UV irradiation and orally administered with WPHs to further examine the effects of WPHs on the redox state, MAPK/AP-1 and TGF-β/Smad signaling pathways, type I procollagen synthesis, and histopathological impairments in photoaging skin. Intervention with WPHs for 18 weeks significantly alleviated the photoaging morphology, enhanced the antioxidant components, and downregulated the phosphorylation levels of extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) and C-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK and p38 proteins) in photoaging tissues, while significant alterations on the gene expression levels of ERK, JNK and p38 were not observed. Meanwhile, WPHs significantly activated the TGF-β/Smad signaling pathway and type I procollagen production. Furthermore, histopathological analysis illustrated that WPHs predominately attenuated epidermal hyperplasia, reduced inflammatory filtration, and promoted the deposition of collagen fibers in photoaging skin. Altogether, the underlying mechanism of WPHs attenuating skin photoaging might lie in the synergistic modulation by increasing the antioxidant capacity, modulating the MAPK/AP-1/MMP-1 and TGF-β/Smad signaling pathways, stimulating the synthesis of type I procollagen, and restoring the impaired architecture structure. Our findings suggest that WPHs are promising agents for preventing skin photoaging.

Phytochemical Study and In Vitro Screening Focusing on the Anti-Aging Features of Various Plants of the Greek Flora

Skin health is heavily affected by ultraviolet irradiation from the sun. In addition, senile skin is characterized by major changes in the collagen, elastin and in the hyaluronan content. Natural products (NPs) have been shown to delay cellular senescence or in vivo aging by regulating age-related signaling pathways. Moreover, NPs are a preferable source of photoprotective agents and have been proven to be useful against the undesirable skin hyperpigmentation. Greek flora harvests great plant diversity with approximately 6000 plant species, as it has a wealth of NPs. Here, we report an extensive screening among hundreds of plant species. More than 440 plant species and subspecies were selected and evaluated. The extracts were screened for their antioxidant and anti-melanogenic properties, while the most promising were further subjected to various in vitro and cell-based assays related to skin aging. In parallel, their chemical profile was analyzed with High-Performance Thin-Layer Chromatography (HPTLC) and/or Ultra-Performance Liquid Chromatography High-Resolution Mass Spectrometry (UPLC-HRMS). A variety of extracts were identified that can be of great value for the cosmetic industry, since they combine antioxidant, photoprotective, anti-melanogenic and anti-aging properties. In particular, the methanolic extracts of Sideritis scardica and Rosa damascena could be worthy of further attention, since they showed interesting chemical profiles and promising properties against specific targets involved in skin aging.

Metabolite and Elastase Activity Changes in Beach Rose (Rosa rugosa) Fruit and Seeds at Various Stages of Ripeness

Rose hips are the fruits of the beach rose (Rosa rugosa). To determine the optimal harvest time and to obtain the maximum functional compounds, rose hips at various stages of ripeness (immature, early, mid, and late) were harvested, and the flesh tissue and seeds were separated. The rose hip flesh showed the highest total phenolic content at the mid-ripeness stage (8.45 ± 0.62 mg/g gallic acid equivalent concentration (dry weight)). The early-, mid-, and late-ripeness stages of rose hip flesh did not show significantly different 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl antioxidant capacities. The elastase inhibitory activity of the 95% ethanol extract from the rose hip seeds was highest at the mid-ripeness stage; however, the elastase inhibitory activity of the rose hip tissue was not significantly different from that of the seeds. Pathway analysis using MetaboAnalyst showed that sucrose, fructose, and glucose gradually increased as the fruit ripened. Ursolic acid was detected in the seeds but not in the flesh. Of the fatty acids, linoleic acid concentrations were highest in rose hip seeds, followed by linolenic acid, oleic acid, and palmitic acid. Fatty acids and ursolic acid might be the active compounds responsible for elastase inhibitory activity and can be utilized as a functional cosmetic material.

Mechanisms of Photosensitivity in Autoimmunity

Aberrant responses to UV light frequently lead to the formation of skin lesions and the activation of systemic inflammation in some autoimmune diseases, especially systemic lupus erythematosus. Whereas the effects of UV light on the skin have been studied for decades, only recently have some of the mechanisms that contribute to abnormal responses to UV light in patients with autoimmune diseases been uncovered. This review will discuss the biology of UV in the epidermis and discuss the abnormal epidermal and inflammatory mechanisms that contribute to photosensitivity. Further research is required to fully understand how to normalize UV-mediated inflammation in patients with autoimmune diseases.

Antioxidant Activity of Hydrogen Water Mask Pack Composed of Gel-Type Emulsion and Hydrogen Generation Powder

In this study, hydrogen generation powder samples were prepared using zinc carbonate as a precursor, at a temperature varying from 400 to 700 °C in H₂ atmosphere, and were characterized in terms of antioxidant activity. The concentration of dissolved hydrogen obtained by the powder samples was measured using a dissolved hydrogen meter as a function of time. In addition, the antioxidant activity of the samples was evaluated based on the Oyaizu’s method, removal rate of ·OH radicals, and ferric reducing antioxidant power. Finally, the hydrogen mask pack was fabricated using the hydrogen generation powder sample and gel-type emulsion. In the clinical test on the mask pack, the effect of the mask on skin aging was characterized and compared to that of a commercial sample. The skin densities of the participants in the experimental group and the control group increased by 18.41% and 9.93% after 4 weeks, respectively. The improved skin density of the participants who used the hydrogen mask pack in the experimental group, might be attributed to the recovery effect of the hydrogen molecule in the mask pack on the denatured thick skin layer.

Walnut protein hydrolysates, rich with peptide fragments of WSREEQEREE and ADIYTEEAGR ameliorate UV-induced photoaging through inhibition of the NF-κB/MMP-1 signaling pathway in female rats

Skin photoaging is a complicated pathological process, and the imbalance of inflammatory regulation is associated highly with photoaging progression. Previously, prepared walnut protein hydrolysates (WPH), rich with peptide fragments of WSREEQEREE and ADIYTEEAGR demonstrated desirable photoprotection. However, it remains unclear if the photoprotection is mediated by the targeted inhibition of the NF-κB signaling pathway. Herein, we examined the regulation of WPH on inflammatory cytokine expression, and elucidated the modulation of the NF-κB/MMP-1 signaling pathway by WPH in a photoaging SD rat model. WPH significantly reduced the expression level of inflammatory cytokines IL-1β and IL-6, but significantly increased the level of IL-2 (all P < 0.05). Furthermore, WPH dramatically inhibited the activation of the NF-κB signaling pathway by mitigating the phosphorylation of IκB and p-65 proteins in a dose-dependent manner. The histopathological results indicated that WPH predominately attenuated epidermal hyperplasia, reduced the inflammatory filtration, and promoted collagen deposition in the photoaging skin tissue. Furthermore, WPH significantly stimulated the expression of TGF-β and procollagen type I, and inhibited the MMP-1 activities (all P < 0.05). Overall, the underlying mechanism of WPH ameliorating skin photoaging may be attributed to the synergistic modulation via reversing the inflammatory imbalance, suppressing the activation of the NF-κB signal pathway, stimulating procollagen type I synthesis, and inhibiting MMP-1 activities. According to these results, it can be concluded that WPH has the potential as an anti-photoaging agent in functional foods.

Effect of TNFα blockade on UVB-induced inflammatory cell migration and collagen loss in mice

UVB irradiation induces pro-inflammatory cytokines including interleukin-1 (IL-1) and tumor necrosis factor-α (TNFα) in the skin. TNFα stimulates the chemotaxis of inflammatory cells to the skin. These cells secrete metalloproteinases (MMPs) and other enzymes that damage the cutaneous matrix. Therefore, blocking TNFα activity could be effective in preventing the influx of inflammatory cells and subsequent collagen degradation in the skin. In addition, TNFα downregulates procollagen mRNA, and thus blockade may be beneficial to production of type I collagen. Female C57BL/6 J mice were treated with etanercept (TNFα blocker, 4 mg/kg/day) for 4 days 1 h prior to UVB irradiation (100 mJ/cm²/day for 5 days). On the 5th day mice were sacrificed 3 h after UVB exposure. Blocking TNFα significantly inhibited UVB-induced recruitment of macrophages, mast cells, and neutrophils. UVB-irradiated mice skin contained more mature collagen compared to etanercept and UVB + etanercept-treated mice. Skin from UVB + etanercept-treated mice had more collagen fragments relative to UVB-irradiated mice. Procollagen protein was lower in UVB-irradiated and UVB + etanercept-treated mice. TNFα blockade decreased decorin and TGF-β1 in UVB-irradiated mice compared to UVB alone. MMP13 was inhibited by etanercept in UVB-irradiated mice (p < 0.01). In conclusion, blockade of TNFα significantly decreased mature collagen in UVB-irradiated mice, while increasing collagen fragmentation and decreasing procollagen.

Review on druggable targets of key age-associated properties regulated by therapeutic agents

Aging is a biological process which accounts for the deterioration of effective physiological functions. The malfunctioning of vital organ systems leads to the onset of neurodegenerative, cardiovascular, and immunomodulatory diseases in the elder population. Age-dependent mitochondrial dysfunctions trigger the production of reactive oxygen species, which serve as a major contributing factor for the onset of age-associated diseases. The increasing burden of age-related pathologies explicates the relevance of identifying novel therapeutic agents with enhanced potency and bioavailability. Key information on the biological mechanisms of significant age-related diseases aids in understanding relevant druggable targets essential for the initiation and progression of the disease. This review provides detailed insights into the druggable targets of key anti-aging properties of therapeutic agents such as anti-oxidant, immunomodulation, cardioprotection, anti-melanogenic, and anti-elastase properties. This information aids in the development of novel therapeutic agents/ supplements with enhanced efficacy.

The Lipoxin Receptor/FPR2 Agonist BML-111 Protects Mouse Skin Against Ultraviolet B Radiation

Excessive exposure to UV, especially UVB, is the most important risk factor for skin cancer and premature skin aging. The identification of the specialized pro-resolving lipid mediators (SPMs) challenged the preexisting paradigm of how inflammation ends. Rather than a passive process, the resolution of inflammation relies on the active production of SPMs, such as Lipoxins (Lx), Maresins, protectins, and Resolvins. LXA4 is an SPM that exerts its action through ALX/FPR2 receptor. Stable ALX/FPR2 agonists are required because SPMs can be quickly metabolized within tissues near the site of formation. BML-111 is a commercially available synthetic ALX/FPR2 receptor agonist with analgesic, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties. Based on that, we aimed to determine the effect of BML-111 in a model of UVB-induced skin inflammation in hairless mice. We demonstrated that BML-111 ameliorates the signs of UVB-induced skin inflammation by reducing neutrophil recruitment and mast cell activation. Reduction of these cells by BML-111 led to lower number of sunburn cells formation, decrease in epidermal thickness, collagen degradation, cytokine production (TNF-α, IL-1β, IL-6, TGF, and IL-10), and oxidative stress (observed by an increase in total antioxidant capacity and Nrf2 signaling pathway), indicating that BML-111 might be a promising drug to treat skin disorders.

The systemic influence of chronic smoking on skin structure and mechanical function

One of the major functions of human skin is to provide protection from the environment. Although we cannot entirely avoid, for example, sun exposure, it is likely that exposure to other environmental factors could affect cutaneous function. A number of studies have identified smoking as one such factor that leads to both facial wrinkle formation and a decline in skin function. In addition to the direct physical effects of tobacco smoke on skin, its inhalation has additional profound systemic effects for the smoker. The adverse effects on the respiratory and cardiovascular systems from smoking are well known. Central to the pathological changes associated with smoking is the elastic fibre, a key component of the extracellular matrices of lungs. In this study we examined the systemic effect of chronic smoking (>40 cigarettes/day; >5 years) on the histology of the cutaneous elastic fibre system, the nanostructure and mechanics of one of its key components, the fibrillin-rich microfibril, and the micromechanical stiffness of the dermis and epidermis. We show that photoprotected skin of chronic smokers exhibits significant remodelling of the elastic fibre network (both elastin and fibrillin-rich microfibrils) as compared to the skin of age- and sex-matched non-smokers. This remodelling is not associated with increased gelatinase activity (as identified by in situ zymography). Histological remodelling is accompanied by significant ultrastructural changes to extracted fibrillin-rich microfibrils. Finally, using scanning acoustic microscopy, we demonstrated that chronic smoking significantly increases the stiffness of both the dermis and the epidermis. Taken together, these data suggest an unappreciated systemic effect of chronic inhalation of tobacco smoke on the cutaneous elastic fibre network. Such changes may in part underlie the skin wrinkling and loss of skin elasticity associated with smoking. © 2020 The Authors. The Journal of Pathology published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd on behalf of Pathological Society of Great Britain and Ireland.

Proteases in Pemphigoid Diseases

Pemphigoid diseases are a subgroup of autoimmune skin diseases characterized by widespread tense blisters. Standard of care typically involves immunosuppressive treatments, which may be insufficient and are often associated with significant adverse events. As such, a deeper understanding of the pathomechanism(s) of pemphigoid diseases is necessary in order to identify improved therapeutic approaches. A major initiator of pemphigoid diseases is the accumulation of autoantibodies against proteins at the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ), followed by protease activation at the lesion. The contribution of proteases to pemphigoid disease pathogenesis has been investigated using a combination of in vitro and in vivo models. These studies suggest proteolytic degradation of anchoring proteins proximal to the DEJ is crucial for dermal-epidermal separation and blister formation. In addition, proteases can also augment inflammation, expose autoantigenic cryptic epitopes, and/or provoke autoantigen spreading, which are all important in pemphigoid disease pathology. The present review summarizes and critically evaluates the current understanding with respect to the role of proteases in pemphigoid diseases.

Application of Capillary Electrophoresis with Laser-Induced Fluorescence to Immunoassays and Enzyme Assays

Capillary electrophoresis using laser-induced fluorescence detection (CE-LIF) is one of the most sensitive separation tools among electrical separation methods. The use of CE-LIF in immunoassays and enzyme assays has gained a reputation in recent years for its high detection sensitivity, short analysis time, and accurate quantification. Immunoassays are bioassay platforms that rely on binding reactions between an antigen (analyte) and a specific antibody. Enzyme assays measure enzymatic activity through quantitative analysis of substrates and products by the reaction of enzymes in purified enzyme or cell systems. These two category analyses play an important role in the context of biopharmaceutical analysis, clinical therapy, drug discovery, and diagnosis analysis. This review discusses the expanding portfolio of immune and enzyme assays using CE-LIF and focuses on the advantages and disadvantages of these methods over the ten years of existing technology since 2008.

UVA and UVB radiation induce the formation of neutrophil extracellular traps by human polymorphonuclear cells

Prolonged exposure of the skin to ultraviolet radiation (UV) leads to its damage and loss of protective properties. This condition called photoaging of the skin is caused by a number of destructive factors, such as reactive oxygen species (ROS) and proteolytic enzymes that cause damage to the extracellular matrix, e.g. collagen fibers. Many cells of the immune system, including neutrophils, are involved in the photoaging process. The presence of neutrophils in the skin exposed to UV irradiation is known; however, the mechanism of neutrophil activity at these conditions remains unclear. In our study, we focused on the ability of neutrophils to release neutrophil extracellular traps (NETs) and the role of these structures in the photoaging process. NET release occurs in response to various stimuli; however, we hereby showed that the UVA and UVB radiation that reaches the Earth's surface could activate the mechanism of netosis. UV-induced netosis was much faster than that activated by chemical or biological factors; however, it also occurred due to the production of ROS, known signal mediators in netosis. In this work, we also identified the probable netosis signaling pathway involved in the neutrophil response to UV. The participation of NET components may explain the ongoing process of skin photoaging, but it is also important to indicate netosis as a potential target for skin protection therapy. Antioxidants tested in this work, such as N-acetylcysteine, ethamsylate, as well as vitamin B1 (thiamine), can successfully inhibit UV-induced netosis, and thus be used as protective components against the negative effects of solar radiation.

Unraveling the ECM-Immune Cell Crosstalk in Skin Diseases

The extracellular matrix (ECM) is a complex network of proteins and proteoglycans secreted by keratinocytes, fibroblasts and immune cells. The function of the skin ECM has expanded from being a scaffold that provides structural integrity, to a more dynamic entity that is constantly remodeled to maintain tissue homeostasis. The ECM functions as ligands for cell surface receptors such as integrins, dystroglycans, and toll-like receptors (TLRs) and regulate cellular signaling and immune cell dynamics. The ECM also acts as a sink for growth factors and cytokines, providing critical cues during epithelial morphogenesis. Dysregulation in the organization and deposition of ECMs lead to a plethora of pathophysiological conditions that are exacerbated by aberrant ECM-immune cell interactions. In this review, we focus on the interplay between ECM and immune cells in the context of skin diseases and also discuss state of the art therapies that target the key molecular players involved.

The Anti-Aging Potential of Extracts from Chaenomeles sinensis

The Chaenomeles sinensis fruit is used as an effective antitussive agent, analgesic, and diuretic in traditional Chinese medicine. It has been reported that C. sinensis fruit extracts have antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory effects. However, there are very few reports about the effects of C. sinensis extracts on skin. In this study, we investigated the effect of C. sinensis extracts on skin aging. The results of in vitro assays showed that whole fruit extracts of C. sinensis had superoxide dismutase (SOD)-like activity and inhibited the activity of dermal extracellular matrix proteases: Elastase and collagenase. The inhibitory effect of the whole fruit (containing seeds) extract on elastase activity was higher than that of the sarcocarp (seeds removed) extract. Further, the sarcocarp extract showed a higher level of SOD-like activity and a greater inhibitory effect on collagenase activity than the whole fruit extract. In particular, among the three activities studied, the sarcocarp extract showed the most significant inhibitory effect on collagenase activity at low concentrations. The polyphenol-rich fraction obtained from the sarcocarp showed significant collagenase inhibition. Based on these results, we concluded that phenolic compounds from C. sinensis sarcocarp have the potential to protect against skin aging through anti-collagenase activity.

Regulation by walnut protein hydrolysate on the components and structural degradation of photoaged skin in SD rats

Skin photoaging induced by consecutive exposure of skin to ultraviolet radiation is primarily responsible for skin aging and preparation of food-derived ingredients with anti-aging functions has been the hot topic worldwide.

Derivatization of honokiol by integrated acetylation and methylation for improved cutaneous delivery and anti-inflammatory potency

A set of honokiol derivatives was synthesized to evaluate skin permeation and bioactivity. The reaction for derivatization included acetylation and methylation. The anti-inflammatory activity against neutrophils and macrophages was examined. The experimental setup for the assessment of cutaneous absorption was the in vitro Franz diffusion assembly. Honokiol and its derivatives significantly downregulated superoxide anion and elastase production in neutrophils, with honokiol showing the greatest inhibition. All derivatives could be completely hydrolyzed to the parent compounds after passing into the skin. The skin deposition of honokiol at an infinite dose (3mM) was 0.33nmol/mg 4'-O-acetylhonokiol (AH), and 2,4'-diacetylhonokiol (DAH) exhibited comparable or less absorption than honokiol. The integrated acetylation and methylation (2-O-acetyl-4'-O-methylhonokiol, AMH) led to a 10.5-fold improvement of absorption compared to honokiol. AMH was advantageous for the targeted cutaneous treatment due to the high skin deposition and minimal penetration across the skin (8.40nmol/cm² compared to 93.49nmol/cm² for honokiol). The predicted therapeutic index for superoxide and interleukin (IL)-6 inhibition was much higher for topically applied AMH than for the other penetrants tested. The total polarity surface and hydrogen bond acceptor number calculated by molecular modeling were the parameters used to anticipate the cutaneous absorption. Our data suggest that AMH is a potent and safe candidate for cutaneous inflammation therapy.

Elucidating the Skin Delivery of Aglycone and Glycoside Flavonoids: How the Structures Affect Cutaneous Absorption

Flavonoids are bioactive phytochemicals that exhibit protective potential against cutaneous inflammation and photoaging. We selected eight flavonoid aglycones or glycosides to elucidate the chemistry behind their skin absorption capability through experimental and computational approaches. The skin delivery was conducted using nude mouse and pig skins mounted on an in vitro Franz cell assembly. The anti-inflammatory activity was examined using the O₂^•– and elastase inhibition in activated human neutrophils. In the equivalent dose (6 mM) application on nude mouse skin, the skin deposition of naringenin and kaempferol was 0.37 and 0.11 nM/mg, respectively, which was higher than that of the other flavonoids. Both penetrants were beneficial for targeted cutaneous therapy due to their minimal diffusion across the skin. The absorption was generally greater for topically applied aglycones than glycosides. Although naringenin could be classified as a hydrophilic flavonoid, the flexibility of the chiral center in the C ring of this flavanone could lead to better skin transport than the flavonols and flavones with a planar structure. An optimized hydrophilic and lipophilic balance of the flavonoid structure was important for governing the cutaneous delivery. The hydrogen bond acceptor and stratum corneum lipid docking estimated by molecular modeling showed some relationships with the skin deposition. The interaction with cholesteryl sulfate could be a factor for predicting the cutaneous absorption of aglycone flavonoids (correlation coefficient = 0.97). Baicalin (3 µM) showed the highest activity against oxidative burst with an O₂^•– inhibition percentage of 77%. Although naringenin displayed an inhibition efficiency of only 20%, this compound still demonstrated an impressive therapeutic index because of the high absorption. Our data are advantageous to providing the information on the structure–permeation relationship for topically applied flavonoids.

Neutrophil extracellular traps in dermatology: Caught in the NET

Neutrophil, or polymorphonuclear granulocytes (PMN) constitute the most abundant type of leucocytes in peripheral human blood. One of the major advances in the last decade was the discovery of neutrophil extracellular trap (NET) formation: a process by which neutrophils externalize web-like chromatin strands decorated with antimicrobial peptides. These structures were soon implicated in immune defense and auto-immunity alike and now link neutrophils to the pathogenesis of a variety of diseases of dermatological relevance. Currently, NET formation is mainly subdivided into suicidal and vital NETosis. Controversy exists regarding the capacity of NETs to kill pathogens, and little is known about the way NETs are formed in vivo. Here, we discuss the current terminology, methods for NET quantification, pathways leading to NET formation, and the role of NETs in systemic and cutaneous immune defense and auto-immunity, with a focus on psoriasis and systemic lupus erythematosus.

Methylation and Esterification of Magnolol for Ameliorating Cutaneous Targeting and Therapeutic Index by Topical Application

PURPOSE

As a continuing effort to elucidate the impact of structure modification upon cutaneous absorption behavior, we attempted to assess the skin permeation of magnolol by methylation and acetylation.

METHODS

Diacetylmagnolol and 2-O-acetyl-2'-O-methylmagnolol (AMM) were designed and synthesized in this study. The anti-inflammatory activity against stimulated neutrophils and keratinocytes was evaluated to check the bioactivity of the analogues. In vitro skin absorption was investigated using nude mouse and pig skin models at both equimolar and saturated doses.

RESULTS

Magnolol generally showed the strongest anti-inflammatory potential, followed by diacetylmagnolol and AMM. The antibacterial activity was observed for magnolol and diacetylmagnolol but not AMM. Diacetylmagnolol and AMM could be partly hydrolyzed to magnolol and 2-O-methylmagnolol after entering the skin. The hydrolysis rate of diacetylmagnolol was faster than that of AMM. The lipophilicity played a crucial role in cutaneous absorption, with AMM exhibiting the highest skin deposition. AMM accumulation within nude mouse skin was about 2.5-fold greater than that of magnolol and diacetylmagnolol. On the other hand, the transdermal penetration across the skin was lessened by methylation and esterification. This led to a superior skin targeting of AMM. Although the pharmacological activity of AMM was low, the high skin uptake and bioconversion into 2-O-methylmagnolol in the skin contributed to a greater therapeutic index (TI, skin deposition x inflammatory inhibition percentage) compared to the others. The accumulation of AMM in the hair follicles was 77.12 nmol/cm(2), which was significantly greater than that with magnolol (44.84 nmol/cm(2)) and diacetylmagnolol (26.96 nmol/cm(2)). The synthetic analogues were tolerable to the nude mouse skin.

CONCLUSIONS

Based on the experimental results, we may suggest topically applied AMM as a potent and safe candidate for the treatment of cutaneous inflammation.

Human neutrophil elastase inhibition studied by capillary electrophoresis with laser induced fluorescence detection and microscale thermophoresis

Capillary electrophoresis-laser induced fluorescence (CZE-LIF) and microscale thermophoresis (MST) were used for the first time to study the inhibition of human neutrophil elastase (HNE). We recently studied HNE kinetics (Km and Vmax) by developing an in-capillary CZE-LIF assay based on transverse diffusion of laminar flow profiles (TDLFP) for reactant mixing. In this work, the former assay was adapted to monitor HNE inhibition. Two natural well known HNE inhibitors from the triterpene family, ursolic acid and oleanolic acid, were tested to validate the developed assay. Since the solubility of pentacyclic triterpenes in aqueous media where the enzymatic reaction will take place is limited, the effect of DMSO and ethanol on HNE was studied using microscale thermophoresis (MST). An agglomeration of the enzyme was revealed when preparing the inhibitor in 5% (v/v) DMSO. This phenomenon did not occur in the presence of ethanol. Therefore, ethanol was used as inhibitor solvent, at a limited percentage of 20% (v/v). In these conditions and after optimization of the TDLFP approach, the repeatability (RSD on migration times and peak-areas inferior to 2.2%) of the CZE-LIF assay and the sensitivity (LOQ of few nM) were found to be satisfactory for conducting inhibition assays. IC50 values for ursolic and oleanolic acid were successfully determined. They were respectively equal to 5.62±0.10μM (r(2)=0.9807; n=3) and to 8.21±0.23μM (r(2)=0.9887; n=3). Excellent agreement was found between the results obtained by CE and those reported in literature which validates the developed method. Particularly, the CE-based assay is able to rank HNE inhibitors relative to each other. Furthermore, MST technique was used for evaluating HNE interaction with the ursolic acid. Up to 16 capillaries were automatically processed to obtain in one titration experiment the dissociation constant for the HNE-ursolic acid complex. Ki was found to be 2.72±0.66μM (n=3) which is in excellent agreement with the value determined by CE enzyme inhibition studies (Ki=2.81μM) confirming the reliability of the developed CE assay and the competitive inhibition mode of ursolic acid.

Effects of glucosamine and nucleotide association on fibroblast: extracellular matrix gene expression

Glucosamine (Gluc) is a drug used as an anti-inflammatory in moderate forms of knee arthrosis. A further off label use of Gluc is in the anti-aging treatments associated with Polideoxirybonucleotide (PDRN) through intra-dermal injection for a procedure called bio-stimulation. An unexpected effect on cultured dermal fibroblasts, during an experimental study on the gene activation in aesthetic bio-stimulation, was observed. The results have potential application in orthopaedic medical therapy. Fibroblast primary cultures were carried out, seeding cells on a layer of Gluc or PDRN alone or in combination for 24 h. Real Time-PCR was performed to investigate several gene expressions. The MMP13 and the IGF-I gene expression in fibroblast cultures were strongly inhibited after 24 h of incubation with the association of Gluc and PDRN, whereas Gluc and PDRN alone produced a modest inhibition of IGF-I and an activation of MMP13. MMP13 is present in osteoarthritic cartilage and this enzyme plays a significant role in cartilage collagen degradation. IGF1 is involved in growth and development and is successfully used in tissue-engineering for cartilage repair. Based on the reported data, we infer that the association of Gluc and PDRN has a potential application in cartilage therapy. Additional basic science and clinical studies are needed to confirm this preliminary report.

Antiphotoaging effect of conditioned medium of dedifferentiated adipocytes on skin in vivo and in vitro: a mechanistic study

Photoaging of skin occurs partially due to decreased synthesis and increased degradation of dermal collagen. Antiphotoaging therapy aims to counteract these effects. This study aimed to investigate whether secretory factors from dedifferentiated adipocytes (DAs) could alleviate photoaging in human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) and in mice and to clarify the underlying mechanism. DAs were acquired and verified based on cellular biomarkers and multilineage differentiation potential. The concentrations of several cytokines in conditioned medium from DAs (DA-CM) were determined. In vivo pathological changes, collagen types I and III, and matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 and -3 were evaluated following the injection of 10-fold concentrated DA-CM into photoaged mice. In vitro, the effect of DA-CM on stress-induced premature senescence in HDFs was investigated by 5-ethynyl-2'-deoxyuridine (EdU) staining and β-galactosidase staining. The influence of DA-CM and transforming growth factor-β1 (TGF-β1) on the secretion of collagen types I and III, MMP-1, and MMP-3 in HDFs was evaluated by ELISA. In vivo, we found that subcutaneously injected 10-fold concentrated DA-CM increased the expression of collagen types I and III. In vitro, DA-CM clearly mitigated the decreased cell proliferation and delayed the senescence status in HDFs induced by ultraviolet B (UVB). HDFs treated with DA-CM exhibited higher collagen types I and III secretion and significantly lower MMP-1 and MMP-3 secretion. The TGF-β1-neutralizing antibody could partially reduce the recovery effect. Our results suggest that DAs may be useful for aging skin and their effects are mainly due to secreted factors, especially TGF-β1, which stimulate collagen synthesis and alleviate collagen degradation in HDFs.

Inhibitory effects of polyphenols from grape pomace extract on collagenase and elastase activity

Breakdown and disorganization of extracellular matrix proteins like collagen, fibronectin and elastin are main characteristics of skin aging due to the enhanced activation of proteolytic enzymes such as collagenases and elastases. Inhibition of their enzymatic activities by natural plant compounds might be a promising approach to prevent extrinsic skin aging. Especially polyphenols are supposed to interact with those enzymes due to their molecular nature. In our investigation, extracts of pomace from Riesling grapes were analyzed for their inhibitory properties on collagenase as well as elastase. Crude grape pomace extract showed a dose-dependent inhibitory activity against both enzymes with IC50-values of 20.3μg/ml and 14.7μg/ml for collagenase and elastase activity, respectively. The extracts were fractionated into four fractions containing phenolic compounds differing in chemical structure and polarity. Except for the stilbene containing fraction, all other fractions showed inhibitory effects on both enzyme activities. The most pronounced impact was found for the hydrophilic low molecular weight polyphenols containing the free phenolic acids. In particular, gallic acid showed considerable inhibition values. EGCG was used as a positive control and showed a dose-dependent inhibition of collagenase activity (IC50=0.9mM).

Upregulation of MMP12 and its activity by UVA1 in human skin: potential implications for photoaging

UVA1 constitutes around 75% of the terrestrial UV radiation, and most of the output of artificial tanning sources. However, the molecular effects of UVA1 in human skin in vivo are surprisingly poorly understood. We have examined time-dependent whole-genome expression, along with mRNA and protein changes in the skin after one minimal erythema dose of spectrally pure UVA1 (50 J cm(-2)) and 300 nm UVB (30 mJ cm(-2)). After 24 hours, the genes induced to the greatest extent were those involved in extracellular matrix remodeling with both UVA1 (P=5.5e-7) and UVB (P=2.9e-22). UVA1 and UVB caused different effects on matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) expression: UVB induced MMP1, MMP3, and MMP10 mRNA at 24 hours to a much greater extent than UVA1. MMP12 induction by UVA1 at 6 hours is marked and much greater than that by UVB. We have found that MMP12 mRNA induction by UVA1 resulted in expression of MMP12 protein, which is functional as an elastase. This induction of elastase activity did not occur with UVB. We hypothesize that the UVA1 induction of MMP12 mediates some of its photoaging effects, particularly by contributing to elastin degeneration in late solar elastosis. MMP12 is a good marker of UVA1 exposure.

Maximizing dermal targeting and minimizing transdermal penetration by magnolol/honokiol methoxylation

Magnolol and honokiol, predominant active compounds in the family Magnoliaceae, are known to exhibit strong anti-inflammatory activities against dermal disorders. We attempted to modify the structures of magnolol and honokiol by methoxylation to optimize the skin delivery ability. Absorption of these permeants into and through the skin was performed at both an infinite dose and saturated solubility. Superoxide anion and elastase released from human neutrophils were the biomarkers used to examine anti-inflammatory potencies of these permeants. The safety of the permeants was evaluated by keratinocyte viability and in vivo bioengineering techniques. Topical magnolol and honokiol at an infinite dose (7.5 mM) showed skin accumulations of 0.22 and 0.16 nmol/mg, respectively. Methoxylation significantly enhanced their skin absorption. Deposition amounts of dimethylmagnolol and dimethylhonokiol were respectively 15- and 7-fold greater than those of magnolol and honokiol. Contrary to the skin accumulation results, the transdermal penetration across skin decreased following methoxylation. No transdermal delivery occurred for dimethylhonokiol. Skin uptake of 4'-O-methylhonokiol was 2-fold higher than that of 2-O-methylhonokiol, although they are isomers. Methoxylated permeants demonstrated selective absorption into follicles, which showed 3-5-fold higher follicular amounts compared to magnolol and honokiol. The relative order of anti-inflammatory activities was honokiol>2-O-methylmagnolol>dimethylhonokiol>magnolol. The other compounds exhibited negligible or negative responses in activated neutrophils. Magnolol and honokiol induced slight but significant keratinocyte cytotoxicity and stratum corneum disruption. Daily administration of methoxylated permeants, especially dimethylhonokiol, produced no skin irritation for up to 7 days. Methoxylated magnolol and honokiol can be efficient and safe candidates for treating inflammatory skin disorders.

The endogenous protease inhibitor TIMP-1 mediates protection and recovery from cutaneous photodamage

UVB exposure is well known to induce skin photodamage and photoaging that correlates with qualitative and quantitative deterioration of the dermal extracellular matrix (ECM) because of the upregulation of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). Although inhibitory effects of tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinases (TIMPs) on most MMPs have been reported, the protective role of TIMP-1 against photodamage is poorly understood. To address this, TIMP-1 function was augmented or abolished in a human skin xenograft photodamage model after the confirmation of significantly diminished TIMP-1 expression both in photoaged and intrinsically aged skins. During a chronic UVB exposure regimen, pre-treatment with a lentiviral vector overexpressing TIMP-1 or concomitant administration of an anti-TIMP-1-neutralizing antibody (NAB) led to photoprotection or more severe photodamage, respectively. Overexpression of TIMP-1 resulted in significant inhibition of UVB-induced ECM degradation, as well as suppression of decreased skin elasticity and roughness, whereas the NAB-mediated inhibition of TIMP-1 had opposite effects. Furthermore, UVB-induced production of the pro-inflammatory cytokine, tumor necrosis factor α, was inhibited by TIMP-1 treatment of human keratinocytes. Taken together, these data shed light on the important role of TIMP-1 in protection and recovery from cutaneous photodamage because of its suppression of ECM degradation and inflammation.

Anti-inflammatory activity and percutaneous absorption of quercetin and its polymethoxylated compound and glycosides: the relationships to chemical structures

The potential of quercetin-related compounds for topical application has not previously been systematically investigated. To better elucidate relationships of the structure and activity with skin permeation, some quercetin compounds were used as permeants, including aglycone, a polymethoxylated compound (quercetin 3,5,7,3',4'-pentamethylether, QM), and seven glycosides. Quercetin and the glycoside with glucopyranuronic acid (Q4) at a dose of 30 μM completely inhibited superoxide anion activated neutrophils. QM also potentially suppressed superoxide by 90%. Both quercetin and QM showed inhibitory activity on elastase release with respective IC(50) values of 6.25 and 15.76 μM. Glycosylation significantly diminished this activity. Both an infinite concentration and saturated solubility in pH 7 buffer were used as permeant doses for the in vitro permeation experiments. The flux or permeability coefficient, which is the indicator for total absorption of dermal delivery due to the use of nude mouse skin, was the greatest for QM, followed by the glycosides and quercetin. QM showed 26× greater flux compared to quercetin. No penetration of quercetin occurred at the dose of saturated solubility. Rutin generally exhibited the highest skin permeation among the glycosides. It was found that the glycoside enantiomers (Q2 and Q3) revealed completely different permeation profiles. The stratum corneum was the principal penetration barrier for quercetin and its glycosides but not QM. Rutin provoked some skin redness and inflammation after a 5-day administration in nude mouse. QM caused no irritation, suggesting that it is a superior candidate for topical delivery.

Matrix metalloproteinase-1 inhibitory activities of Morinda citrifolia seed extract and its constituents in UVA-irradiated human dermal fibroblasts

The objective of this study was to examine whether a 50% ethanolic extract (MCS-ext) of the seeds of Morinda citrifolia (noni) and its constituents have matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) inhibitory activity in UVA-irradiated normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs). The MCS-ext (10 μg/mL) inhibited MMP-1 secretion from UVA-irradiated NHDFs, without cytotoxic effects, at 48 h after UV exposure. The ethyl acetate-soluble fraction of MCS-ext was the most potent inhibitor of MMP-1 secretion. Among the constituents of the fraction, a lignan, 3,3'-bisdemethylpinoresinol (1), inhibited the MMP-1 secretion at a concentration of 0.3 μM without cytotoxic effects. Furthermore, 1 (0.3 μM) reduced the level of intracellular MMP-1 expression. Other constituents, namely americanin A (2), quercetin (3) and ursolic acid (4), were inactive. To elucidate inhibition mechanisms of MMP-1 expression and secretion, the effect of 1 on mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs) phosphorylation was examined. Western blot analysis revealed that 1 (0.3 μM) reduced the phosphorylations of p38 and c-Jun-N-terminal kinase (JNK). These results suggested that 1 suppresses intracellular MMP-1 expression, and consequent secretion from UVA-irradiated NHDFs, by down-regulation of MAPKs phosphorylation.

Protective and restorative effects of a Commiphora mukul gum resin and triheptanoin preparation on the CCL-110 skin fibroblast cell line

Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) is a major ingredient in skin care products because of its anti-wrinkle effects, although it has some side effects especially at higher amounts. In this study, we compare the anti-wrinkle related properties of CoQ10 and a proprietary Commiphora mukul gum resin (guggul) and triheptanoin preparation (GU-TC7). GU-TC7 is prepared with a supercritical CO₂-co-solvent extraction with ethanol, standardized to 2% guggulsterones and triheptanoin, a triglyceride composed of three 7-carbon fatty acids. Treatment of CCL-110 skin fibroblasts with GU-TC7 demonstrates a mild proliferative effect compared to CoQ10 and increased type I collagen synthesis. Additionally, GU-TC7 inhibited matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) expression in a dose-dependent manner at 20-100 μg mL⁻¹ and inhibited human elastase expression by more than 50% as compared to no elastase inhibition with CoQ10 treatment. These results suggest that GU-TC7 possesses properties that are applicable to the treatment of wrinkles and may be considered for its further evaluation in skin care products.