A convenient screening method to differentiate phenolic skin whitening tyrosinase inhibitors from leukoderma-inducing phenols

Plants with cosmetic uses

The use of plants as a source of active principles for cosmetics has significantly increased in the last few years. Safety, compatibility with all types of skin, fewer side effects, and availability are among the advantages of herbal cosmetics above synthetic ingredients. The present review aims to explore the most important plants used in cosmetics. A literature search was carried out in several electronic databases with the following phrases: skincare and plants; cosmetics and plants; natural and cosmetics; and natural and skincare. Furthermore, more detailed filters such as clinical studies, meta-analyses, and systemic reviews were applied to positive results. Various plants and plant extracts currently used in skin care, scaring, whitening, and aging, as well as in sun protection, acne, eczema, and others, have been included in this review. The effectiveness of these plants is based mainly on preclinical research, and to a lesser extent on clinical studies. Some plant extracts or oils have been tested clinically, such as onions, aloe, and tea tree oil, more than other plant extracts. Despite many studies on natural products to improve dermal needs, proper clinical cosmeceutical trials are much fewer than expected. Therefore, more clinical trials are needed to evaluate appropriate efficacy. Furthermore, new formulation technologies might enhance the cosmeceutical benefits, but more work is warranted.

ANTIAGE-DB: A Database and Server for the Prediction of Anti-Aging Compounds Targeting Elastase, Hyaluronidase, and Tyrosinase

Natural products bear a multivariate biochemical profile with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antitumoral properties. Along with their natural sources, they have been widely used both as anti-aging and anti-melanogenic agents due to their effective contribution in the elimination of reactive oxygen species (ROS) caused by oxidative stress. Their anti-aging activity is mainly related to their capacity of inhibiting enzymes like Human Neutrophil Elastase (HNE), Hyaluronidase (Hyal) and Tyrosinase (Tyr). Herein, we accumulated literature information (covering the period 1965–2020) on the inhibitory activity of natural products and their natural sources towards these enzymes. To navigate this information, we developed a database and server termed ANTIAGE-DB that allows the prediction of the anti-aging potential of target compounds. The server operates in two axes. First a comparison of compounds by shape similarity can be performed against our curated database of natural products whose inhibitory potential has been established in the literature. In addition, inverse virtual screening can be performed for a chosen molecule against the three targeted enzymes. The server is open access, and a detailed report with the prediction results is emailed to the user. ANTIAGE-DB could enable researchers to explore the chemical space of natural based products, but is not limited to, as anti-aging compounds and can predict their anti-aging potential. ANTIAGE-DB is accessed online.

A cell-based evaluation of human tyrosinase-mediated metabolic activation of leukoderma-inducing phenolic compounds

BACKGROUND

Chemical leukoderma is a skin depigmentation disorder induced through contact with certain chemicals, most of which have a p-substituted phenol structure similar to the melanin precursor tyrosine. The tyrosinase-catalyzed oxidation of phenols to highly reactive o-quinone metabolites is a critical step in inducing leukoderma through the production of melanocyte-specific damage and immunological responses.

OBJECTIVE

Our aim was to find an effective method to evaluate the formation of o-quinone by human tyrosinase and subsequent cellular reactions.

METHODS

Human tyrosinase-expressing 293T cells were exposed to various phenolic compounds, after which the reactive o-quinones generated were identified as adducts of cellular thiols. We further examined whether the o-quinone formation induces reductions in cellular GSH or viability.

RESULTS

Among the chemicals tested, all 7 leukoderma-inducing phenols/catechol (rhododendrol, raspberry ketone, monobenzone, 4-tert-butylphenol, 4-tert-butylcatechol, 4-S-cysteaminylphenol and p-cresol) were oxidized to o-quinone metabolites and were detected as adducts of cellular glutathione and cysteine, leading to cellular glutathione reduction, whereas 2-S-cysteaminylphenol and 4-n-butylresorcinol were not. In vitro analysis using a soluble variant of human tyrosinase revealed a similar substrate-specificity. Some leukoderma-inducing phenols exhibited tyrosinase-dependent cytotoxicity in this cell model and in B16BL6 melanoma cells where tyrosinase expression was effectively modulated by siRNA knockdown.

CONCLUSION

We developed a cell-based metabolite analytical method to detect human tyrosinase-catalyzed formation of o-quinone from phenolic compounds by analyzing their thiol-adducts. The detailed analysis of each metabolite was superior in sensitivity and specificity compared to cytotoxicity assays for detecting known leukoderma-inducing phenols, providing an effective strategy for safety evaluation of chemicals.

Assessing the Morphological and Behavioral Toxicity of Catechol Using Larval Zebrafish

Catechol is a ubiquitous chemical used in the manufacturing of fragrances, pharmaceuticals and flavorants. Environmental exposure occurs in a variety of ways through industrial processes, during pyrolysis and in effluent, yet despite its prevalence, there is limited information regarding its toxicity. While the genotoxicity and gastric carcinogenicity of catechol have been described in depth, toxicological studies have potentially overlooked a number of other effects relevant to humans. Here, we have made use of a general and behavioral larval zebrafish toxicity assay to describe previously unknown catechol-based toxicological phenomena. Behavioral testing revealed catechol-induced hypoactivity at concentrations an order of magnitude lower than observable endpoints. Catechol exposure also resulted in punctate melanocytes with concomitant decreases in the expression of pigment production and regulation markers mitfa, mc1r and tyr. Because catechol is converted into a number of toxic metabolites by tyrosinase, an enzyme found almost exclusively in melanocytes, an evaluation of the effects of catechol on these cells is critical to evaluating the safety of this chemical. This work provides insights into the toxic nature of catechol and highlights the benefits of the zebrafish larval testing platform in being able to dissect multiple aspects of toxicity with one model.

Skin Depigmenting Agents in Anti-Aging Cosmetics: A Medicinal Perspective on Emerging Ingredients

Human skin aging results from intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Uneven pigmentation is one of the major changes of extrinsic aging. Many compounds have been tested for depigmenting activity but only a few are actually used by the cosmetic industry, which is continually looking for new ingredients. In this study, the trends in the use of skin depigmenting ingredients in a panel of anti-aging formulations commercialized in the Portuguese pharmacy market were analyzed, by comparing the composition of the products marketed in 2011 with products launched or reformulated in 2018 (59% and 74%, respectively). The analysis of the top 12 ingredients put forward three novelties for 2018: tranexamic acid, bakuchiol, and 4-butylresorcinol. Regarding their mechanisms of action, tranexamic acid inhibits melanin synthesis through inhibition of the plasminogen/plasmin system. Bakuchiol depigmenting efficacy was attributed to the ability to block both α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone and tyrosinase activation, while 4-butylresorcinol exerts its action through the inhibition of both tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1). Industry-optimized and efficient synthetic methodologies that embrace green chemistry, reducing the environmental impact, are commonly used. This analysis aims to bring insights to both formulators, involved in the development of depigmenting cosmetic products, and chemists performing the synthesis of new and existing compounds intended for this purpose.

Detection of Raspberry Ketone after Percutaneous Absorption of Rhododendrol-Containing Cosmetics and Its Mechanism of Formation

Here, we aimed to elucidate the mechanism of rhododendrol (RD)-induced leukoderma. We investigated the skin permeability of RD in an aqueous solution and in different cosmetic formulations (lotion and emulsion) in an in vitro skin permeation study. The samples were analyzed using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), and an unknown substance appeared on the spectrum. For identification, we analyzed various possible substances, such as raspberry ketone (RK) and rhododendrol quinone, using HPLC and then compared the detected absorption spectra and further verified the matched components using liquid chromatography–mass spectrometry. The unknown substance was found to be RK. To clarify the mechanism of formation of RK, we conducted a 24-h skin permeation test on heat-treated skin. By quantifying the RK in the samples using HPLC, we observed that an enzyme in the skin seemed to be the cause of RK generation and that the components of the emulsion formulation could also be a cause. To investigate the enzyme, we reacted alcohol dehydrogenase with RD and observed that it was one of the converting enzymes. As RK has been reported to be a substance that causes leukoderma, the intraepidermal metabolism of RD to RK may be one of the mechanisms of susceptibility to leukoderma.

Evaluation of quercetin omega-6 and -9 esters on activity and structure of mushroom tyrosinase: Spectroscopic and molecular docking studies

Quercetin is one of the most ubiquitous dietary flavonoids widely distributed in plants and foods of plant origin, and is a potent tyrosinase inhibitor. Quercetin fatty esters could lead to an improve in quercetin lipophilicity which could positively affect its pharmacological activity. In this study, the inhibitory effect of two novel esters of quercetin-linoleic acid (ligand A) and quercetin-oleic acid (ligand B) has been investigated on structure and diphenolase activity of mushroom tyrosinase (MT) by experimental and molecular docking techniques. The inhibitory kinetics study using UV-visible spectrophotometry in the presence of its substrate 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (L-dopa), revealed that both esters successfully inhibit the activity of tyrosinase and reduce the formation of dopaquinone. Results showed that the binding of ligands to MT induced rearrangement and conformational changes of the enzyme. Thermodynamic parameters of these interactions (K_a , ∆G°, ∆H° and ∆S°) were obtained at pH = 6.8 and temperatures of 298 and 310 K. Molecular docking studies further was applied to calculation of binding energies (ΔG_bA  = -21.84 kJ/mol, ΔG_bB  = -20.92 kJ/mol), inhibition constant values (K_IA  = 160 µM, K_IB  = 220 µM) and the special binding site. It can be deduced that ligands act as a potential tyrosinase inhibitor and it was found that the best possible interaction condition with binding modes visualize was achieved by ligand A and exhibited the potent tyrosinase inhibitory activity. These findings may be helpful to understand the inhibition mechanism of quercetin fatty acids esters on tyrosinase and provide a convenient screening method to differentiate phenolic tyrosinase inhibitors. PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS: Bioavailability and antioxidant activity of conjugated fatty acids with their bioequivalence in several biological effects and metabolic processes such as beta-oxidation from various forms has been reported to be highly variable and useful. Quercetin shows beneficial role in human health, but its biological effects in vivo is limited by poor bioavailability, low skin permeability and solubility. This study design new tyrosinase inhibitors which helpful to functional research of unsaturated fatty acid esters in the treatment of inflammatory diseases and hyperpigmentation disorders. In addition, undesirable enzymatic browning of plant derived-foods by tyrosinase causes a decrease in market value and economic loss of food products. The results suggest that the conjugation of quercetin with linoleic and oleic acids resulted in novel stronger tyrosinase inhibitors which may have therapeutic applications and replacement of toxic tyrosinase inhibitors and contribute as anti- browning agents in food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry.

The C-terminally shortened analogs of a hexapeptide derived from Lingzhi hydrolysate with enhanced tyrosinase-inhibitory activity

Ganoderma lucidum or Lingzhi (Chinese) is a medicinal fungus widely used in traditional medicine as a health supplement. This study was conducted to identify an approach to enhance the anti-tyrosinase activity of a peptide from G. lucidum by chemical modification of its C-terminus. The original peptide was obtained from protease-digested Lingzhi proteins, followed by ultrafiltration (molecular weight cut-off 3 kDa) and C18 solid-phase extraction. The hexapeptide (NH₂ -VLTCGF-COOH) possessing the anti-tyrosinase activity was identified by liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS). This hexapeptide was subjected to shortening to enhance the anti-tyrosinase activity. Both the original peptide and the shortened peptides were synthesized by solid-phase peptide synthesis. The purity and mass of the synthetic peptide and the modified peptide were evaluated by high-performance liquid chromatography and LC-MS, respectively. Comparison of the tyrosinase activities showed that the modified peptide demonstrated more than 23.27 ± 1.07% activity, which was better than that of the hexapeptide. The structure-related biological activity was explained by molecular docking, wherein the VLT-tyrosinase complex showed two interaction forces: Asn260 and Gly281 through H-bonding and Glu256 through electrostatic interaction. This information could help toward gaining further understanding of the correlation between the anti-tyrosinase activity and the molecular structure of the modified hexapeptide and support its potential use as a safe cosmetic ingredient with tyrosinase-suppressing ability.

Zebrafish as a new model for rhododendrol-induced leukoderma

Idiopathic leukoderma is a skin disorder characterized by patchy loss of skin pigmentation due to melanocyte dysfunction or deficiency. Rhododendrol (RD) was approved as a cosmetic ingredient in Japan in 2008. However, it was shown to induce leukoderma in approximately 20,000 customers. The prediction of cytotoxicity, especially to melanocytes in vivo, is required to avoid such adverse effects. Since the use of higher vertebrates is prohibited for medicinal and toxicological assays, we used zebrafish, whose melanocytes were regulated by mechanisms similar to mammals. Zebrafish larvae were treated with RD in breeding water for 3 days, which caused body lightening accompanied by a decrease in the number of melanophores. Interestingly, black particles were found at the bottom of culture dishes, suggesting that the melanophores peeled off from the body. In addition, RT-PCR analysis suggested that the mRNA levels of melanophore-specific genes were significantly low. An increase in the production of reactive oxygen species was found in larvae treated with RD. The treatments of the fish with other phenol compounds, which have been reported to cause leukoderma, also induced depigmentation and melanophore loss. These results suggest that zebrafish larvae could be used for the evaluation of leukoderma caused by chemicals, including RD.

Rhododendrol-induced leukoderma update II: Pathophysiology, mechanisms, risk evaluation, and possible mechanism-based treatments in comparison with vitiligo

A small proportion of individuals utilizing cosmetics containing rhododendrol developed leukoderma with various pathological conditions, in some cases indistinguishable from vitiligo. In this review, we investigate and evaluate the major considerations for developing rhododendrol‐induced leukoderma based on data from original or review articles published in the literature to provide a wide range of information regarding the pathophysiology, mechanisms, risk evaluation, and possible mechanism‐based treatments. We compile and discuss the latest information, including data related to the cytotoxicity of rhododendrol, cytoprotective functions, and involvement of the immune system, and consider the possibility of novel treatments based on the differences between individual patients and on the mechanism underlying the onset of the condition. Understanding the pathophysiology of rhododendrol‐induced leukoderma helps not only elucidate the mechanisms of non‐segmental vitiligo onset and progression, but also suggests prevention and treatment.

Protocatechuic Aldehyde Inhibits α-MSH-Induced Melanogenesis in B16F10 Melanoma Cells via PKA/CREB-Associated MITF Downregulation

Protocatechuic aldehyde (PA) is a naturally occurring phenolic compound that is a potent inhibitor of mushroom tyrosinase. However, the molecular mechanisms of the anti-melanogenesis activity of PA have not yet been reported. The aim of the current study was to clarify the melanogenesis inhibitory effects of PA and its molecular mechanisms in murine melanoma cells (B16F10). We first predicted the 3D structure of tyrosinase and used a molecular docking algorithm to simulate binding between tyrosinase and PA. These molecular modeling studies calculated a binding energy of -527.42 kcal/mol and indicated that PA interacts with Cu400 and 401, Val283, and His263. Furthermore, PA significantly decreased α-MSH-induced intracellular tyrosinase activity and melanin content in a dose-dependent manner. PA also inhibited key melanogenic proteins such as tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1), and TRP-2 in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells. In addition, PA decreased MITF expression levels by inhibiting phosphorylation of cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB) and cAMP-dependent protein kinase A (PKA). These results demonstrate that PA can effectively suppress melanin synthesis in melanoma cells. Taken together, our results show that PA could serve as a potential inhibitor of melanogenesis, and hence could be explored as a possible skin-lightening agent.

Sapindus mukorossiSeed Oil Changes Tyrosinase Activity of α-MSH-Induced B16F10 Cells Via the Antimelanogenesic Effect of Eicosenoic Acid

Melanogenesis is a complex process that can lead to pigmentation defects. Various chemical skin-lightening products have been developed to treat pigmentation disorders. However, these chemical products can cause harmful adverse effects. Therefore, the development of safer, natural bleaching ingredients is a trend for sustainability. It has been reported that unsaturated fatty acids exhibit significant antimelanogenic effects. Sapindus mukorossi seed oils contain abundant unsaturated fatty acids; however, these have not yet been investigated for beneficial effects on skin tone evenness. In this study, we tested the possibility of using S. mukorossi oil for the treatment of hyperpigmentation in an in vitro model. Free fatty acid compositions and β-sitosterol were determined by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry and high-pressure liquid chromatography, respectively. The effect of S. mukorossi oil on melanoma B16F10 cell viability was detected using the 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)- 2,5-diphenyl-tetrazolium bromide assay. The inhibitive effects of fatty acids and β-sitosterol in S. mukorossi oil on α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (MSH)-induced melanogenesis was evaluated by detecting melanin formation and tyrosinase activity. Our results showed that S. mukorossi oil produced no significant cytotoxicity in B16F10 cells at various concentrations compared with the control group. The enhancement of melanin formation induced by α-MSH was reduced by S. mukorossi oil. We also found that the primary fatty acid contributing to the antimelanogenesis effect was eicosenoic acid. These results suggest that S. mukorossi seed oil can effectively inhibit melanogenesis and has the potential for future development as a de-hyperpigmentation product within a waste utilization context.

Chemical Reactivities of ortho-Quinones Produced in Living Organisms: Fate of Quinonoid Products Formed by Tyrosinase and Phenoloxidase Action on Phenols and Catechols

Tyrosinase catalyzes the oxidation of phenols and catechols (o-diphenols) to o-quinones. The reactivities of o-quinones thus generated are responsible for oxidative browning of plant products, sclerotization of insect cuticle, defense reaction in arthropods, tunichrome biochemistry in tunicates, production of mussel glue, and most importantly melanin biosynthesis in all organisms. These reactions also form a set of major reactions that are of nonenzymatic origin in nature. In this review, we summarized the chemical fates of o-quinones. Many of the reactions of o-quinones proceed extremely fast with a half-life of less than a second. As a result, the corresponding quinone production can only be detected through rapid scanning spectrophotometry. Michael-1,6-addition with thiols, intramolecular cyclization reaction with side chain amino groups, and the redox regeneration to original catechol represent some of the fast reactions exhibited by o-quinones, while, nucleophilic addition of carboxyl group, alcoholic group, and water are mostly slow reactions. A variety of catecholamines also exhibit side chain desaturation through tautomeric quinone methide formation. Therefore, quinone methide tautomers also play a pivotal role in the fate of numerous o-quinones. Armed with such wide and dangerous reactivity, o-quinones are capable of modifying the structure of important cellular components especially proteins and DNA and causing severe cytotoxicity and carcinogenic effects. The reactivities of different o-quinones involved in these processes along with special emphasis on mechanism of melanogenesis are discussed.

Natural and Bioinspired Phenolic Compounds as Tyrosinase Inhibitors for the Treatment of Skin Hyperpigmentation: Recent Advances

One of the most common approaches for control of skin pigmentation involves the inhibition of tyrosinase, a copper-containing enzyme which catalyzes the key steps of melanogenesis. This review focuses on the tyrosinase inhibition properties of a series of natural and synthetic, bioinspired phenolic compounds that have appeared in the literature in the last five years. Both mushroom and human tyrosinase inhibitors have been considered. Among the first class, flavonoids, in particular chalcones, occupy a prominent role as natural inhibitors, followed by hydroxystilbenes (mainly resveratrol derivatives). A series of more complex phenolic compounds from a variety of sources, first of all belonging to the Moraceae family, have also been described as potent tyrosinase inhibitors. As to the synthetic compounds, hydroxycinnamic acids and chalcones again appear as the most exploited scaffolds. Several inhibition mechanisms have been reported for the described inhibitors, pointing to copper chelating and/or hydrophobic moieties as key structural requirements to achieve good inhibition properties. Emerging trends in the search for novel skin depigmenting agents, including the development of assays that could distinguish between inhibitors and potentially toxic substrates of the enzyme as well as of formulations aimed at improving the bioavailability and hence the effectiveness of well-known inhibitors, have also been addressed.

Halal Cosmetics: A Review on Ingredients, Production, and Testing Methods

The demand for halal cosmetic products among the 2.4 billion Muslim consumers worldwide is increasing. However, the demand for halal cosmetics remains unmet because cosmetics production is dominated by non-halal cosmetic manufacturers, whose production methods may not conform with the requirements of halal science. The development of halal cosmetics and the assessment of their product performance is still in its infancy. The integration of halal science in the manufacture of most cosmetic products remains inadequate. Moreover, there is a global dearth of guiding documents on the development and assessment techniques in the production of comprehensively halal cosmetics. This paper aims to abridge existing literature and knowledge of halal and cosmetic science in order to provide essential technical guidance in the manufacture of halal cosmetics. In addition, the adoption of these methods addresses the unique ethical issues associated with conformance of cosmetics’ product performance to religious practices and halal science. It highlights the applicability of established methods in skin science in the assessment of halal cosmetics.

Discovery of new depigmenting compounds and their efficacy to treat hyperpigmentation: Evidence from in vitro study

Human skin pigmentation is a result of constitutive and facultative pigmentation. Facultative pigmentation is frequently stimulated by UV radiation, pharmacologic drugs, and hormones whereby leads to the development of abnormal skin hyperpigmentation. To date, many state-of-art depigmenting compounds have been studied using in vitro model to treat hyperpigmentation problems for cosmetic dermatological applications; little attention has been made to compare the effectiveness of these depigmenting compounds and their mode of actions. In this present article, new and recent depigmenting compounds, their melanogenic pathway targets, and modes of action are reviewed. This article compares the effectiveness of these new depigmenting compounds to modulate several melanogenesis-regulatory enzymes and proteins such as tyrosinase (TYR), TYR-related protein-1 (TRP1), TYR-related protein-2 (TRP2), microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) and N-terminal kinases (JNK) and mitogen-activated protein kinase p38 (p38 MAPK). Other evidences from in vitro assays such as inhibition on melanosomal transfer, proteasomes, nitric oxide, and inflammation-induced melanogenesis are also highlighted. This article also reviews analytical techniques in different assays performed using in vitro model as well as their advantages and limitations. This article also provides an insight on recent finding and re-examination of some protocols as well as their effectiveness and reliability in the evaluation of depigmenting compounds. Evidence and support from related patents are also incorporated in this present article to give an overview on current patented technology, latest trends, and intellectual values of some depigmenting compounds and protocols, which are rarely highlighted in the literatures.

Resveratrol as a Multifunctional Topical Hypopigmenting Agent

Melanin is produced in melanocytes and stored in melanosomes, after which it is transferred to keratinocytes and, thus, determines skin color. Despite its beneficial sun-protective effects, abnormal accumulation of melanin results in esthetic problems. A range of topical hypopigmenting agents have been evaluated for their use in the treatment of pigmentary disorders with varying degrees of success. Hydroquinone (HQ), which competes with tyrosine, is the main ingredient in topical pharmacological agents. However, frequent occurrence of adverse reactions is an important factor that limits its use. Thus, efforts to discover effective topical hypopigmenting agents with less adverse effects continue. Here, we describe the potential of resveratrol to function as an effective hypopigmenting agent based on its mechanism of action. Resveratrol is not only a direct tyrosinase inhibitor but an indirect inhibitor as well. Additionally, it can affect keratinocytes, which regulate the function of melanocytes. Resveratrol regulates the inflammatory process of keratinocytes and protects them from oxidative damage. In this way, it prevents keratinocyte-induced melanocyte stimulation. Furthermore, it has a rescuing effect on the stemness of interfollicular epidermal cells that can repair signs of photoaging in the melasma, a typical pigmentary skin disorder. Overall, resveratrol is a promising potent hypopigmenting agent.

Conjugation with Dihydrolipoic Acid Imparts Caffeic Acid Ester Potent Inhibitory Effect on Dopa Oxidase Activity of Human Tyrosinase

Caffeic acid derivatives represent promising lead compounds in the search for tyrosinase inhibitors to be used in the treatment of skin local hyperpigmentation associated to an overproduction or accumulation of melanin. We recently reported the marked inhibitory activity of a conjugate of caffeic acid with dihydrolipoic acid, 2-S-lipoylcaffeic acid (LCA), on the tyrosine hydroxylase (TH) and dopa oxidase (DO) activities of mushroom tyrosinase. In the present study, we evaluated a more lipophilic derivative, 2-S-lipoyl caffeic acid methyl ester (LCAME), as an inhibitor of tyrosinase from human melanoma cells. Preliminary analysis of the effects of LCAME on mushroom tyrosinase indicated more potent inhibitory effects on either enzyme activities (IC50 = 0.05 ± 0.01 μM for DO and 0.83 ± 0.09 μM for TH) compared with LCA and the reference compound kojic acid. The inhibition of DO of human tyrosinase was effective (Ki = 34.7 ± 1.1 μM) as well, while the action on TH was weaker. Lineweaver⁻Burk analyses indicated a competitive inhibitor mechanism. LCAME was not substrate of tyrosinase and proved nontoxic at concentrations up to 50 μM. No alteration of basal tyrosinase expression was observed after 24 h treatment of human melanoma cells with the inhibitor, but preliminary evidence suggested LCAME might impair the induction of tyrosinase expression in cells stimulated with α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone. All these data point to this compound as a valuable candidate for further trials toward its use as a skin depigmenting agent. They also highlight the differential effects of tyrosinase inhibitors on the human and mushroom enzymes.

Biochemical Mechanism of Rhododendrol-Induced Leukoderma

RS-4-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanol (rhododendrol (RD))-a skin-whitening ingredient-was reported to induce leukoderma in some consumers. We have examined the biochemical basis of the RD-induced leukoderma by elucidating the metabolic fate of RD in the course of tyrosinase-catalyzed oxidation. We found that the oxidation of racemic RD by mushroom tyrosinase rapidly produces RD-quinone, which gives rise to secondary quinone products. Subsequently, we confirmed that human tyrosinase is able to oxidize both enantiomers of RD. We then showed that B16 cells exposed to RD produce high levels of RD-pheomelanin and protein-SH adducts of RD-quinone. Our recent studies showed that RD-eumelanin-an oxidation product of RD-exhibits a potent pro-oxidant activity that is enhanced by ultraviolet-A radiation. In this review, we summarize our biochemical findings on the tyrosinase-dependent metabolism of RD and related studies by other research groups. The results suggest two major mechanisms of cytotoxicity to melanocytes. One is the cytotoxicity of RD-quinone through binding with sulfhydryl proteins that leads to the inactivation of sulfhydryl enzymes and protein denaturation that leads to endoplasmic reticulum stress. The other mechanism is the pro-oxidant activity of RD-derived melanins that leads to oxidative stress resulting from the depletion of antioxidants and the generation of reactive oxygen radicals.

Inhibition of Human Tyrosinase Requires Molecular Motifs Distinctively Different from Mushroom Tyrosinase

Tyrosinase is the rate-limiting enzyme of melanin production and, accordingly, is the most prominent target for inhibiting hyperpigmentation. Numerous tyrosinase inhibitors have been identified, but most of those lack clinical efficacy because they were identified using mushroom tyrosinase as the target. Therefore, we used recombinant human tyrosinase to screen a library of 50,000 compounds and compared the active screening hits with well-known whitening ingredients. Hydroquinone and its derivative arbutin only weakly inhibited human tyrosinase with a half-maximal inhibitory concentration (IC₅₀) in the millimolar range, and kojic acid showed a weak efficacy (IC₅₀ > 500 μmol/L). The most potent inhibitors of human tyrosinase identified in this screen were resorcinyl-thiazole derivatives, especially the newly identified Thiamidol (Beiersdorf AG, Hamburg, Germany) (isobutylamido thiazolyl resorcinol), which had an IC₅₀ of 1.1 μmol/L. In contrast, Thiamidol only weakly inhibited mushroom tyrosinase (IC₅₀ = 108 μmol/L). In melanocyte cultures, Thiamidol strongly but reversibly inhibited melanin production (IC₅₀ = 0.9 μmol/L), whereas hydroquinone irreversibly inhibited melanogenesis (IC₅₀ = 16.3 μmol/L). Clinically, Thiamidol visibly reduced the appearance of age spots within 4 weeks, and after 12 weeks some age spots were indistinguishable from the normal adjacent skin. The full potential of Thiamidol to reduce hyperpigmentation of human skin needs to be explored in future studies.

2-S-Lipoylcaffeic Acid, a Natural Product-Based Entry to Tyrosinase Inhibition via Catechol Manipulation

Conjugation of naturally occurring catecholic compounds with thiols is a versatile and facile entry to a broad range of bioinspired multifunctional compounds for diverse applications in biomedicine and materials science. We report herein the inhibition properties of the caffeic acid- dihydrolipoic acid S-conjugate, 2-S-lipoylcaffeic acid (LC), on mushroom tyrosinase. Half maximum inhibitory concentration (IC₅₀) values of 3.22 ± 0.02 and 2.0 ± 0.1 µM were determined for the catecholase and cresolase activity of the enzyme, respectively, indicating a greater efficiency of LC compared to the parent caffeic acid and the standard inhibitor kojic acid. Analysis of the Lineweaver–Burk plot suggested a mixed-type inhibition mechanism. LC proved to be non-toxic on human keratinocytes (HaCaT) at concentrations up to 30 µM. These results would point to LC as a novel prototype of melanogenesis regulators for the treatment of pigmentary disorders.

Tyrosinase-Catalyzed Oxidation of the Leukoderma-Inducing Agent Raspberry Ketone Produces (E)-4-(3-Oxo-1-butenyl)-1,2-benzoquinone: Implications for Melanocyte Toxicity

The exposure of human skin to 4-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone (raspberry ketone, RK) is known to cause chemical/occupational leukoderma. RK has a structure closely related to 4-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanol (rhododendrol), a skin whitening agent that was found to cause leukoderma in the skin of consumers in 2013. Rhododendrol is a good substrate for tyrosinase and causes a tyrosinase-dependent cytotoxicity to melanocytes, cells that are responsible for skin pigmentation. Therefore, it is expected that RK exerts its cytotoxicity to melanocytes through the tyrosinase-catalyzed oxidation to cytotoxic o-quinones. The results of this study demonstrate that the oxidation of RK by mushroom tyrosinase rapidly produces 4-(3-oxobutyl)-1,2-benzoquinone (RK-quinone), which is converted within 10-20 min to (E)-4-(3-oxo-1-butenyl)-1,2-benzoquinone (DBL-quinone). These quinones were identified as their corresponding catechols after reduction by ascorbic acid. RK-quinone and DBL-quinone quantitatively bind to the small thiol N-acetyl-l-cysteine to form thiol adducts and can also bind to the thiol protein bovine serum albumin through its cysteinyl residue. DBL-quinone is more reactive than RK-quinone, as judged by their half-lives (6.2 min vs 10.5 min, respectively), and decays rapidly to form an oligomeric pigment (RK-oligomer). The RK-oligomer can oxidize GSH to GSSG with a concomitant production of hydrogen peroxide, indicating its pro-oxidant activity, similar to that of the RD-oligomer. These results suggest that RK is cytotoxic to melanocytes through the binding of RK-derived quinones to thiol proteins and the pro-oxidant activity of the RK-oligomer.

Large-Scale Recombinant Expression and Purification of Human Tyrosinase Suitable for Structural Studies

Human tyrosinase (TYR) is a glycoprotein that initiates the first two reactions in the melanin biosynthesis pathway. Mutations in its encoding gene cause Oculocutaneous Albinism type I (OCA1), the most severe form of albinism, which is a group of autosomal recessive disorders characterized by reduced or absent production of melanin in skin, hair and eyes. Despite extensive structural and characterization studies of its homologues in lower eukaryotic organisms, the catalytic mechanism of human TYR and the molecular basis of OCA1 are largely unknown. In this work, we have carried out a large-scale recombinant expression of TYR that has enabled us to obtain high yields of pure and active protein, required for crystallization trials and screening of skin whitening agents, which is highly demanded in the cosmetic industry. Addition of an N-terminal honeybee melittin signal peptide for secretion of the produced protein into the (protein-free) medium, as well as a cleavable His-tag at the C-terminus, was crucial for increasing the yield of pure protein. We have successfully crystallized two TYR variants, in both glycosylated and deglycosylated forms, showing preliminary X-ray diffraction patterns at 3.5 Å resolution. Hence, we have established an expression and purification protocol suitable for the crystal structure determination of human TYR, which will give unique atomic insight into the nature and conformation of the residues that shape the substrate binding pocket that will ultimately lead to efficient compound design.

Action of ellagic acid on the melanin biosynthesis pathway

BACKGROUND

Tyrosinase is an enzyme involved in the first steps of the melanogenesis process. It catalyzes the hydroxylation of monophenols to o-diphenols and the oxidation of the latter to o-quinones. Ellagic acid (EA) is a phenolic compound which has been described as a tyrosinase inhibitor and is used in the cosmetic industry as a whitening agent. However, it has hydroxyl groups in ortho position and could act as a substrate rather than inhibitor. This aspect should be taken into consideration when using this compound as a cosmetic ingredient due to the reactive character of o-quinones.

OBJECTIVE

To determine whether ellagic acid is a substrate or an inhibitor of tyrosinase, to characterize it kinetically and interpret its role in the melanogenesis process.

METHODS

UV-vis spectrophotometry was used to follow the action of tyrosinase on typical substrates and ellagic acid. A chronometric method was chosen for the kinetic characterization of ellagic acid.

RESULTS

Ellagic acid is not an inhibitor per se but an alternative substrate of tyrosinase. It is oxidized by the enzyme to an unstable o-quinone. Its kinetic characterization provided low Michaelis and catalytic constants (KM(EA)=138±13μM and kcat(EA)=0.47±0.02s(-1)). Furthermore, ellagic acid, which is a powerful antioxidant, may chemically reduce the o-quinones (o-dopaquinone) and semiquinones, in this way inhibiting the melanogenesis.

CONCLUSION

Ellagic acid is oxidized by tyrosinase, producing reactive o-quinones. As an antioxidant it can inhibit the melanogenesis process. This first aspect should be taken into consideration in its application as a cosmetic ingredient due to the toxicity of o-quinones and its ability to modify the redox status of the cell.

The Metabolic Fate of ortho-Quinones Derived from Catecholamine Metabolites

ortho-Quinones are produced in vivo through the oxidation of catecholic substrates by enzymes such as tyrosinase or by transition metal ions. Neuromelanin, a dark pigment present in the substantia nigra and locus coeruleus of the brain, is produced from dopamine (DA) and norepinephrine (NE) via an interaction with cysteine, but it also incorporates their alcoholic and acidic metabolites. In this study we examined the metabolic fate of ortho-quinones derived from the catecholamine metabolites, 3,4-dihydroxyphenylethanol (DOPE), 3,4-dihydroxyphenylethylene glycol (DOPEG), 3,4-dihydroxyphenylacetic acid (DOPAC) and 3,4-dihydroxyphenylmandelic acid (DOMA). The oxidation of catecholic substrates by mushroom tyrosinase was followed by UV-visible spectrophotometry. HPLC analysis after reduction with NaBH₄ or ascorbic acid enabled measurement of the half-lives of ortho-quinones and the identification of their reaction products. Spectrophotometric examination showed that the ortho-quinones initially formed underwent extensive degradation at pH 6.8. HPLC analysis showed that DOPE-quinone and DOPEG-quinone degraded with half-lives of 15 and 30 min at pH 6.8, respectively, and >100 min at pH 5.3. The major product from DOPE-quinone was DOPEG which was produced through the addition of a water molecule to the quinone methide intermediate. DOPEG-quinone yielded a ketone, 2-oxo-DOPE, through the quinone methide intermediate. DOPAC-quinone and DOMA-quinone degraded immediately with decarboxylation of the ortho-quinone intermediates to form 3,4-dihydroxybenzylalcohol (DHBAlc) and 3,4-dihydroxybenzaldehyde (DHBAld), respectively. DHBAlc-quinone was converted to DHBAld with a half-life of 9 min, while DHBAld-quinone degraded rapidly with a half-life of 3 min. This study confirmed the fact that ortho-quinones from DOPE, DOPEG, DOPAC and DOMA are converted to quinone methide tautomers as common intermediates, through proton rearrangement or decarboxylation. The unstable quinone methides afford stable alcoholic or carbonyl products.